community, c

ulture and e

nvironment

Issue 3 * 2011

$2.50

WinterAutumn

organic skincare*mother 2 mother*scumpups zine*cd reviews & more

Market Dates 2011

Sat 26 March, Sat 11 JuneSat 10 Sept (Twilight market)Sun 20 Nov, Sat 10 DecAll markets are from 9am - 2pm except the Twilight market 4 - 8pm

Locally grown and made food, produce, art & craft, fashion & accessories, plants and live entertainment.

In and around the community halls, behind the shops in Upwey

Burrinja presentsDandenong Ranges Open Studios

Saturday 28 – Sunday 29 May 2011The Open Studios weekend offers you the unique opportunity

to get an inside look into the eclectic and often hidden art world of the hills. Meet the artists, view their artwork in context, see them at work, and take home a hand-made treasure or two.

Open Studios Exhibition ‘Naked Beast: where the wild things are’

20 May – 27 June Burrinja Gallery Each artist in the program will have artwork on display at the

annual Open Studios exhibition in Burrinja Gallery. Admission is free, making Burrinja a great place to pick up your Open Studios

book, check out the artists’ work, and then head out on your expedition around the beautiful Dandenong Ranges.

Burrinja351 Glenfern Road Upwey

(03) 9754 8723 openstudios@burrinja.org.au

www.openstudios.org.au Follow Open Studios on Facebook

So here’s Issue 3 of ‘the hillscene’. It’s out a bit later than planned but the best laid plans, and all that.

There’s lots in this Issue and lots I couldn’t fit either which I plan to put into the next one. There’s articles on organic skincare with a beautiful handcream give away, CD reviews more from our talented artists and the ‘Cafe Tart’ reviewing another of our local cafes. I’ve put in a photographic feature as I’d love to have more works that feature our beautiful surrounds in the zine be it photography or illustration. If you’re interested in having your work showcased make sure you get in touch.

The facebook page has been a great addition to the zine and I’m always amazed at the quantity of things I find to share which are happening in the hills. So send me your news of events and happenings, exhibitions or live shows and I can help spread the word for you.

I’m always looking for new contributors who can write about their area of interest or share their experiences from around the hills.

Like this photo sent in by one our readers joeluisjnr taken at Warburton which just shows the quirky nature of our locals and the reason I love living up here. Hope you enjoy this one and don’t be shy drop me line.

Editor/Designer Adriana Alvarez

Cover Emma Johnston

Proofreader Louise Bloxham

Contributers Rebecca Funk, Carolyn Oates, Sarah O’Connor,, Iznaya Kennedy, Icia Molloy, Honor & Florenece, Caroline Taylor and Adriana Alvarez

facebook: The Hillscene For submission and advertising enquiries e: hillscene@westnet.com.au

Printed by Ferntree Print on Envirocare 100gsm recycled paper, cover on 150gsm Envirocare.© Copyright 2010

Editor’s rave

Photo by joeluisjnr

F A S H I O N E M P O R I U MA unique range of artistic, funky, exotic accesories, ornaments & textiles

9 7 5 4 7 8 8 4

aDriAna Al

vaRez dEsign

With creative designs and images displaying a local feel by the creator of ‘the hillscene’. For standout advertising, flyers, gift vouchers, newsletters or identity call me.

Give your business the professional image

it deserves.

mobile: 0439 823 175email: adrianaz@westnet.com.au •

aRt • dEsigN • illusTration •

communit

y, cultu

re and e

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nt

Issue 3 * 2011

$2.50

WinterAutumn

organic skincare*Bilingual families*scum pups zine*

cd reviews & more

Emma Johnson was conceived at the backpackers in Emerald so it’s no surprise that she returned to the hills after having grown up in England.

Emma’s talents are wide reaching, as well as being an artist she works on the ‘hills hoist’ at 3MDR, holds colouring classes and is involved with illustration and public art projects.

“Art is an action, it’s about the creativity of working with people”, says Emma who likes working collaboratively. The cover art called

In the beginning there were beans ... Chapter 18: Air-planet aliens was workshopped with students from St. Thomas More’s Primary School, Belgrave during the ‘another dead possum’ exhibition. Her work is intricately detailed with a wicked humour. “Once you realise we’re all mad life starts to make sense,” she says.

Public art is one of her passions, the concept of it, that your surroundings affect you. “When people interact with things that’s when it’s art, the interaction is the important thing.” Among other projects, she’s currently working with the kids from Upwey High on a Belgrave Traders sign ‘Welcome to Belgrave’ which will be installed close to Belgrave station in the middle of this year.

wow! great cover

Words by Icia Molloy

The Hills Hoist Fridays 1 – 3pm, first went to air 10th July 2010, to raise awareness “of all the Arts news of our forest covered mountains.”

Jedi Jenny was ‘nervous as anything’, Captin Emma “cocky and cool”. The aliases come from their roles in the Demolition 2009 AD: A Space Odyssey, at Burrinja. They met as Captin and Jedi.

Jenny had long thought about doing a radio show, “Enough musicians up here, you could just play ‘hills’ music.”

Emma, had already done research, written a proposal and contacted 3MDR. Within days of the initial conversation during a Creative Chaos brainstorming get-together, they had their first training session at 3MDR.

It is a collaborative partnership; they are both visuals artists with great enthusiasm, the gift of the gab and an effortless flow of bent humour.

Emma: The show is a forum and opportunity to have in-depth conversations with artists.

Jenny: Wherever we go in the hills, we meet people who are working on inspiring projects and we love being able to invite them to come on the show.

Emma: We approach each show like it’s an art piece

Jenny: We start with a rough sketch and it fills out in real time. Every week, bursting at the seams… no trouble filling two hours.

Emma: It’s a net-working tool for the community.

Aims for 2011

• Getting more people involved with 3MDR

• More interviews with artists

• Artists collaborating cross medium.

• Monthly art competition

• Monthly reviews of movies, music and exhibitions up here ‘in the hills’.

“It’s about putting people together.” says Jedi Jenny

“All one big collaboration, life.” says Captin Emma

The Hills Hoist is sponsored by Councillor Samantha Dunn, Shire of Yarra Ranges. Their free monthly zine is available in many Belgrave shops

email: artshole@hotmail.com 3MDR on 97.1 FM

The hills hoist on 3MDR

Emma Johnson and Jenny Hall

p.e.t for little critters

The Effectiveness Training Institute of Australia (ETIA) is the body responsible for furthering Parent Effectiveness Training (PET) in Australia, and Kate Horne is president of the Victorian branch. PET is a method for communication and conflict resolution based on the work of Dr Thomas Gordon; it is aimed at parents, but is applicable to any relationship. Kate runs PET courses in the Dandenong Ranges area.

Kate, what is PET?

One of the main elements of PET involves defining who owns the problem in a conflict. If it is the child, it’s the parent’s role to help by Actively Listening, rather than providing a solution. If the problem is owned by the parent, there’s a whole set of conflict skills

that can be employed. Sometimes I find with Active Listening, it’s enough to simply hear someone. You can feel like you haven’t even done anything, but something’s shifted for the other person.

Another key PET concept is to do with “shifting gears.” Almost invariably when you confront someone, no matter how gently you go about it, they become defensive. So, to lower their “emotional temperature,” you need to “shift gears” – get out of your conflict for a minute and be empathetic and Actively Listen to them, which can be hard to do if you’re feeling afraid or sad or angry. You can then come back with an “I-message” (a statement from your perspective about the problem and how you’re affected by it). You might go back and forth like this until you get the emotional temperature right down and everyone’s able to hear each other.

Can everyone’s needs be met?

Yes, I think everyone’s needs can be met. A dialogue can foster positive feelings and change the direction of a conflict, though sometimes it can be chaotic and take a while to reach a place where everyone is content. In order to get everybody’s needs met, every person involved in the conflict needs to want that outcome and be open different solutions to the needs that have been identified. Sometimes one person is ready to work something out, but another person doesn’t care to. It’s not always perfect or ideal.

What I like about PET is that it’s so well set out that you can look at any situation and if you know who owns the problem, then you know what skills to use, and if that doesn’t work, you

try something else, and it all comes together. I didn’t get a sense of this until I did the course and saw it all mapped out and fitting together in different ways.

What’s the difference between needs and values?

A need that’s being compromised has a tangible effect. So if you’re having a conversation with a friend and your child starts doing something noisy next to you, the tangible effect would be that you can’t hear your friend talking. But if your child wants to get their ears pierced, there’s no tangible effect on you – this kind of conflict is to do with values. PET challenges what’s your own stuff and what’s the other person’s – I like how it encourages self-responsibility. There’s a whole session at the end of the course on “values collisions,” with multiple avenues for dealing with them.

Does this method take extra time?

It can take extra time. People use rewards, punishments and timeouts because they’re quick and they work. But they don’t work in the long run. The question to ask yourself is, do I want my child to modify their behaviour because they’re offered a reward, or because they’re fearful of being punished, or do I want them to do it because they want to, out of the goodness of their heart or because they care about other people?

What motivates you to run courses and work as President of the ETIA Vic?

I think it’s valuable for parents to get together and know that they’re all human and that they don’t have to reach this perfect ideal of parenting. That they can be authentic and

respectful of their children and get their needs met. PET provides a method to do that, but it does take practice, for sure.

Kate is running some PET courses in the upcoming months.

For more information, contact Kate on 5967 7167 or awenemerg@hotmail.com

ETIA: www.etia.org

PET Blog: www.parenteffectivenesstraining.blogspot.com

Rebecca Funk

Rebecca Funk is a writer and mother of three children, whose life is punctuated by Puffing Billy’s whistle. She reflects on life at fiveskies.blogspot.com

Minak Reserve, Selby 3159p: 9754 2039 e: selby@selbyhouse.com.auw: www.selbyhouse.com.au

Catering for the creative adult & child we offer courses in:Women’s Drawing & Painting, Pottery, Learn to Spin, Celtic Guitar,One World Song- Music for children, Children’s Art to Inspire 5-10 year olds, Art for Pre-schoolers during school terms.Public Forums run each term with a focus on environmental & community issuesA friendly, relaxed atmosphere in our art/multipurpose studio

Images by Honor and Florence taken at Cloudehill Gardens Olinda

Fine Art Photography – Unique Children’s Portraiture.Seasonal Packages and Commer cial Specials Available.Facebook – HONOR & FLORENCEEmail – honorflorence@gmail.comStudio – 03 9756 6929Mobile – 0457 334 708

Honor & FlorenceH &F

Reviewed by Carolyn Oates

COEN DIXON

The Invisible Man is a three track EP from Coen Dixon. It’s a lovingly handmade package, recorded by Dixon and engineered by fellow hills local Alex Legg. It’s a solo voice and guitar effort, and Dixon’s style has the pronounced Australian accent on the vocals, combined with interesting guitar chords and progressions.

The title track ‘The Invisible Man’ has a wandering verse melody and mysterious lyrics, so mysterious I was a little lost to understand its meaning. Dixon plays the second track ‘Kamikaze Cigarettes’ in a finger picking style and it starts with a beautiful guitar line that plays through the whole song. Lyrically this song has a great descriptive opening of the turn of the night sky to dawn.

‘Bitten By’ is a rollicking guitar driven track which has a chorus that can easily be sung by the happy, drunken crowd. It’s a fun song and I can imagine it may have been inspired by the ramblings of a boastful character and all the many creatures he has been bitten by….

I look forward to hearing more from Dixon as he further develops his craft.

‘The Invisible Man’ is available at Limerence in Belgrave

THE STOOSH

The Stoosh are a 2 year old, three piece band, consisting of Bill Coupland (vocals, guitar), Alan Maclean (Drums, Vocals) and Jeremy Collings (Bass, Cello). Their self-titled album is an acoustic driven song journey that has tendencies to morph into extended electric guitar jam outs.

The album sounds live and raw; these guys proudly wear their spontaneity on their sleeves, sometimes to the point of loose tuning and playing. There are elements of The Doors, Dirty Three, and The Drones. At times the vocals get a little lost in the mix, and overall, the mix was not a strong point of the album. Melodically and lyrically the songs are shoe gazer material, and a great album to listen to on a mellow day.

Highlights are ‘Fire in the Hole’, which is single material. It has the catchy chorus melody and is a well constructed song that has the mellow verse and then moves into the big wall of electric guitars in the chorus. I can see the crowd breaking into song with the band on this one. ‘The Axis’ has a great groove to it with a

CD reviews

sweet lyric of the companion on the road with you.

It then moves into dark songs and sounds in the middle of the album, coming out the other side with a track like ‘More Rights’, an upbeat blues jam. Still dark lyric content; about how the rich are getting richer, it is written with a good dose of wit. ‘Be Ready’ has a nice mysterious feel to it and is a breezy number that is a refreshing addition to the album.

Album finishers ‘Cataclysm’ and ‘Stealing Time’ are big jam outs that will get you in the mood for hauling out more of your stoner rock collection.

‘The Stoosh’ is available at Earthly Pleasures Cafe in Belgrave.

CAROLYN OATES

Reviewed by Adriana Alvarez

Here’s one from our very own music writer, Carolyn Oates. A Patch local who recently launched her single ‘Trash & Treasure’ from her widely acclaimed album, ‘In the Moment’.

The album has been produced by David Carr (who has worked with a diverse selection of acts including Antiskeptic, Deborah Conway and Kisschasy).

You can see the clever and colourful video clip for ‘Trash & Treasure’ on her myspace page. Worth a look for the trailer trash scene alone and to see if you recognise some of the local scenery. It has been lovingly produced by the team at Generator Images & video designer Martillo who have contributed to Priscilla Queen of the Desert, The Matrix, Moulin Rouge and more.

‘In the Moment’ is a lovely contemplative album full of mellow sounds and a dreamy vibe. It blends slower smooth songs with more upbeat pop and meaningful lyrics to provide a chilled out listening experience.

Some tunes have a perfect blend of lyrics and melody like ‘Wondering if’ with some Sade style beats and spot on lyrics, or ‘Nature Boy’ with it’s orchestral sound and message about individuality and potential.

Others are more poetry where the lyrics drive the melody like ‘Advice to the young’ a melancholy conversation between mother and son and ‘So many things’.

There are some upbeat numbers like ‘A million skies’ and the single ‘Trash and Treasure’ a statement about the political system and capitalism gone mad. They have a fuller sound and add a more rocking feel to the album.

‘Grey to Night’ is a standout for me its acoustic guitar tunings allow the purity of Carolyns’ beautiful voice to shine.

www.myspace.com/carolynoates

‘In the Moment’ is available at Limerence in Belgrave.

music

The landscape of Main Street, Belgrave has shifted up a gear recently with the addition of a unique fashion boutique and gallery space. Limerence is a specialised retail space dedicated to Australian handmade fashion, jewellery and accessories and also acts as an exhibition space.

Behind this new project is local Belgrave couple, Brent Dakis (designer of jewellery label ‘Depths of the Never Never’) and CJ Baxter (creator of the fashion label ‘Twisted Fig’). Dakis works with found objects, old watch and clock movements, vials and tins to create simple pieces as well as more elaborate, one-off collage items. Baxter utilises discarded garments to rework them into individual articles of wearable storytelling, and also uses reclaimed fabrics to create short runs of diverse and unique clothing and accessories.

‘I think Belgrave has really been calling for something like this,’ says Baxter ‘For such an artistic community, the fact that there was nothing in the main shopping strip with a handmade focus seemed crazy to us!’

Since creating the space in August last year Brent & CJ have received an overwhelmingly positive response from their customers, who are intrigued, enthralled and generally excited about the unique items within the store. ‘It’s been really encouraging to see how many people feel the way we do about handmade things and how important it is to support your local artists,’ says Dakis ‘It’s about having the opportunity to own something totally unique that you don’t see everywhere else with the bonus of supporting your local community and the environment at the same time.’ About 25 artists are currently represented, most of which

Limerence

are from Melbourne and the hills and the stock ranges from jewellery, clothing, paintings, gifts and books.

‘Part of the reason people respond so well to our space, we believe, is the fact that every single item in our store is handmade by someone who loves what they do, and that positive, creative energy is imbued into the fibres of the clothes, the rivets of the jewellery, and the pages of the journals,’ says Baxter. Many of the artists represented have a focus on sustainability in design, with many products made from recycled, reclaimed or organic materials. In fact, their labeling system identifies the attributes of each item (ie. whether it be ‘sweatshop free’, ‘made with recycled materials’ etc) and allows customers to make a more conscious and informed choice about where their money is really going.

‘It’s about giving lost and useless items new life’ Dakis says when talking about his design ethos. ‘Both CJ and I are very passionate about doing our small part in the grand scheme of recycling, reusing and reinventing’ and this concept is clearly evident in the pair’s personal work; with their aesthetic stirring a sense of nostalgia and encouraging adventure and curiosity.

With all Dakis’ jewellery and some of Baxter’s textile creations produced on-site, the pair can often be found working away in their small studio at the back of the store. They have future plans to run workshops in the space on

weekend afternoons which will be hosted by themselves or anyone else willing to share their creative knowledge.

Whilst the store predominantly acts as a retail space, Brent and CJ are committed to providing a non-intimidating yet well presented exhibition space where local artists can exhibit their work. Though more established artists are definitely welcome, there is a focus on supporting emerging artists that may not have exhibited very often (if ever) before.

One of their more recent ideas, aimed at involving local artists, has been the birth of the bi-annual Th’INK Tank Project. This is a competition inviting local artists, illustrators and photographers to submit designs that will ultimately be printed onto a limited-edition range of Limerence T-Shirts. The current Th’INK Tank Project is still underway, with an exhibition for the finalists and a special event evening planned in June 2011 to announce the winner and release the tees for sale.

Brent and CJ’s passion for sustainability and all things handmade is infectious and will hopefully be a catalyst for more amazing spaces like this to open in our local community. They are always willing to have a chat – so pop in and see them, and the handmade creations at Limerence - 2/1642 Burwood Hwy Belgrave.

For more go to www.limerence.com.au keep updated on their facebook page at www.facebook.com/limerenceboutique.

Words by Adriana Alvarez

Scumpups is a youth-driven, adult-mentored initiative directed by Ferny Creek photographer Tiffaney Bishop. “It’s a collaborative relationship between young people and adults, something that is lacking in our culture,” says Tiffaney.

The project started when five young people approached Burrinja to express themselves artistically about youth issues, particularly violence as three of them had beeen attacked in broad daylight by other youths and wanted to talk about it. Burrinja brought Tiffaney in to lead a workshop in photography but that wasn’t enough to express what they were feeling so Scumpups was born; a permanent art collective that now supports its’ projects by seeking grants each year.

“Scumpups’ work is confronting and challenging but intelligent and responsible,” says Tiffaney. They have police involvement and Metro trains

have given permission to work on station platforms. “Yet the work is still edgy and contemporary and therefore relevant to youth.” says Tiffaney. Their work is funded by local Council and other groups but they are free to express themselves without the restraints of these organisations. Initially raising issues about safety and youth violence in the community but it has moved on to explore all issues surrounding youth culture.

They have had two photographic exhibitions which were really succesful with two hundred people attending the opening nights. “After the exhibitions we decided to put together an art and culture magaZINE for and about young people,” states Tiffaney. Hoodie zine was what emerged; they chose the name because people often see a young person in a hoodie as someone to be afraid of, the zine is trying to demistify the hoodie and adolescence. “So many young people started to approach us about this

Scum pups

Image Tiffaney Bishop

project, it opened up the Scumpups concept to more young people,” says Tiffaney. A core group of 12 -20 year olds are now seriously involved, including photgraphers, illustrators, poets, performance artists, painters and activists.

Scumpups have a good relationship with Mater Christi in Belgrave. They have a progressive art curriculum headed by Anthony Clarke, so it was decided to embed the Hoodie into their art curriculum and design classes. “The idea was to make a limited edition zine (ten or so), that will go inside the Hoodie or to incorporate some of the design ideas into the Hoodie zine. It was so successful that the program is being launched into another school this year with the Scumpup members participating in delivering that program.

“The key is that this is a local zine that talks about local issues but has a global appeal,” says Tiffaney. Scumpups’ intention is to keep it to the local community but to develop a model that can be taken on by other communities - a social franchising model, so other communities can have their own ‘Hoodies’ dealing with issues that are relevant to them.

Scumpups is not art therapy or a social service; its’ main intention is to provide young people the opportunity to engage with professional art practices. Sounds like they’re hitting the mark.

Any young people wanting to submit zines or be part of the project see www.scumpups.com

Hoodie launch is planned for May, the first issue will be available then.

Top images Tiffaney Bishop

Image courtesy Mail Newsgroup Nigel Clements

Image Zoe Hewett-Batt

By Iznaya Kennedy

Having a baby and sustaining it is the most natural thing in the world. Normal, even. And a lot would be keen to share that it is not easy. In a world where GPs receive minimal training in breastfeeding, where birth has become a medical event regardless of medical necessity for intervention, and where formula companies have succeeded in their marketing tactics by undermining women’s confidence in their bodies’ ability to sustain life, knowing how to birth and breastfeed is less common amongst first time expectant mothers. Research increasingly shows us that certain neural pathways in babies are only developed through touch and stimulation of the nerve endings in the lips whilst being breastfed and held closely, so getting off to this sensory start primes children for empathy and compassion later on.

This is not the fault of individual women; rather it reflects the breakdown of proper care-giving in our health systems, and education of both boys and girls when young about the real role of breasts and female bodies. We are let down by forces larger than ourselves. All is not lost, though, and since the 1960s there has been a group of dedicated individuals who educate and help women who just want to feed their babies and children and only need to sort out fact from myth. This group is the Australian Breastfeeding Association, formerly Nursing Mothers Association of Australia (your mum and grandmother may remember this name).

ABA counsellors and Community Educators, all volunteers, are trained (Cert IV and ongoing skills maintenance) to deliver information and provide empathic support to new mothers, and not-so-new mothers, who encounter problems with physical, emotional or social aspects of breastfeeding, and are bound by the ABA’s Code of Ethics. You are assured of a kind ear when you call 1800 mum2mum!

The best way to learn about breastfeeding is to see it happening around us. As this does not happen as often as it could in our society, the ABA has local discussion and support groups

2mother mothergetting off to a good start

all over the country, including one right here in the Dandenong Ranges providing a valuable service called Breastfeeding Education Classes (or BECs), for expectant couples (ideally before 30 weeks of pregnancy). The Dandy Ranges Group is lucky enough to have various trained counsellors and trainee counsellors, all of whom are involved in BECs, held at intervals throughout the year. Classes are for a few hours on a Saturday and a ‘demo mum’ is arranged so that couples can see a baby latching, as well as being shown the signs babies provide that they are hungry, well before the screaming and crying need begin, and other important aspects and issues of caring for your new baby. The class fees incorporate an annual subscription to the ABA, and are run as fundraisers for groups to send their trainees to conferences and seminars, so that they can bring their knowledge back to their community. Classes are comprehensive and empowering, going into far more detail than most hospital ante-natal classes are able or qualified to do – it’s money well spent, when you calculate how much formula costs over 12 months, and consider that most breastfeeding issues can be resolved when appropriate help is found.

ABA groups very often and quickly become de facto mothers’ groups and members make life long friendships that span time and geography, once made. Mother-to-mother support is so important and effective and many women draw courage from just knowing others who persevere and sustain successful breastfeeding relationships with their children, for the World Health Organisation-recommended exclusive breastfeeding for 6 months, then at least 2 years and beyond of breastfeeding in conjunction with solids.

When you next see a mother breastfeeding, please give her the gift of your smile and understanding in return for the gift she is giving to her child, and, by extension, to our community. It costs nothing to show your support and to accept what is normal for human babies and mummies. And don’t be too shy to support the annual Mothers Day Raffle when the group sells tickets through April and May at various locations throughout the Hills!

If you are an expectant mother, or are breastfeeding, or have breastfed a child for any length of time and would like to share your experiences and ask questions with a group of friendly and compassionate families, please email dandenong.ranges@gmail.com for meeting times and venues, or call 1800 mum2mum (1800 686 686) for a chat to a trained counsellor about your concern and questions.

Iznaya Kennedy

Iznaya has been a regular member of the Dandenong Ranges ABA Group since July 2006, is mother of two children, CFA volunteer firefighter, student, farmer, horse rider and human rights activist, among other things. This is the last issue she will contribute to as a Dandy Ranges resident, and will be moving onto the next chapter of life in South Gippsland in 2011, after 16 very productive and happy years in the Hills.

Caroline Taylor from Chrystalage Skin Care tells us what’s true and what isn’t when it comes to natural and organic skincare.

Consumer demand for natural and organic skin care is growing. People care more about the environment and they care more about what they apply to their skin and hair.

While the increasing availability of green or organic skin care products is good for us, for most consumers, understanding what they are buying from the description on a product label is not easy. To understand what is natural and what is organic and not organic is also not easy. Many of the claims made concerning natural skin care are based on marketing hype.

Companies frequently overuse the word natural in attempt to assure customers of purity of their products, and ride the popularity of environmental trends. Natural can be abused in other ways, from misleading and untrue claims to adding a few natural ingredients into a synthetic cosmetic base. It’s not to say that synthetic cosmetic ingredients are necessarily bad or wrong, the issue is about misleading the consumer. (In this article, cosmetic refers to skin, hair and personal care products).

The word natural in skin care is difficult to define. The Macquarie dictionary defines natural as “existing in or formed by nature”, not synthetic. The cosmetic industry definition is “any ingredient derived from a natural substance”. Natural substances can be derived from a plant, animal or mineral. Mineral oil, a by-product from petroleum, is a natural product formed from the breakdown of plants and animals that lived million years ago, and would be included in this definition. Poisonous plants are also natural but

we exercise caution about ingesting them or applying them to our skin. Sometimes natural ingredients are not necessarily better or desirable.

The word natural on a label can be deceptive. Some natural compounds are transformed by using synthetic chemicals but written in a way on the label to imply they are all natural. An example of this is, “cleansers derived from coconut oil”, but really the ingredient is called Cocamide DEA. Cocamide diethanolamine is a chemically modified form of coconut oil, used as a foaming agent in shampoos and liquid handsoaps. The safety data says that Cocamide DEA shows high irritation potential for the skin.

Some cosmetic companies don’t label their products correctly, because they don’t know the legal requirements or they don’t want to put consumers off their products because of the chemical names of ingredients. The Australian Competition & Consumer Commission (ACCC),

Natural skincare

is responsible for enforcing compliance with labelling requirements for cosmetics so consumers can identify ingredients.

Ingredient names are to be listed in either their English names or their International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). This is an international standard for naming ingredients. An example of incorrect labelling is the use of the term “coconut oil derived cleansers” on ingredient lists, when the proper INCI names would be for example Sodium lauryl sulphate or Cocamidopropyl betaine.

In 2009, an Australian manufacturer was found guilty of deliberately not listing all ingredients on their ingredients lists, plus they listed some chemicals by incorrect names. They also claimed that some products were made from 100% pure oils and certified organic herbs but they were only a very minor part of the product. The ACCC ordered the company to publish corrective notices in newspapers & magazines. That was a very public warning to cosmetic manufacturers to ethically and legally do the right thing.

Cosmetic ingredients are to be listed on a label in descending order in terms of their percentage amount in the product from largest to least. Ingredients that are 1% or less of the total product can be listed in any order on the label. So a product can appear to contain a lot of an ingredient but only a small amount was added.

Sometimes I see essential oils listed near the top of an ingredient label on a cosmetic product such as a hand cream. However, the cream would only have a small amount of essential oils added to reduce the possibility of skin irritation.

An interesting way to read labels is to divide the ingredients list into thirds. The first third of ingredients make up 90 to 95% of the product

(mostly water). The second third make up 5 to 8% of the product. The last third of ingredients make up 1 to 3% of the product.

Many products claim to be organic nowadays and it can be a challenge to know which ones are genuine and which ones aren’t.

Currently there isn’t a world-wide standard defining what can be used in natural skin care. There are several organic associations (international & Australian) and each one has different standards for natural or organic products. Australian certifying bodies include; Australian Certified Organic (ACO), National Association for Sustainable Agriculture Australia (NASAA) and Organic Food Chain (OFC).

The ACO has set the highest standard in Australia for cosmetics certification, and their standard has the following three classifications:

• To label a product certified organic, 95% of the ingredients must be certified organic. The products display a certifier's logo for example Australian Certified Organic.

• Products carrying a 100% organic label must contain 100% certified organic ingredients. The products display a certifier’s logo.

• The next level is “Made with Organic”, and must have at least 70% organic ingredients. These products can’t display a certifier’s logo and without a logo organic claims can’t be verified.

Currently there are no certified organic emulsifiers and preservatives, so when products don’t have 100% of their ingredients certified organic, the remaining percentage of non organic ingredients must be sourced from ingredients approved for use in certified organic products.

eco matters

cont. next page

Sometimes a so-called organic product may not be what it seems. The following example demonstrates how a manufacturer can hoodwink consumers with a so-called organic shampoo. If a company adds organic infusions of herbs to the water content (70%) of shampoo, they can claim the shampoo is 70% organic. However, the actual organic content (from the herbs) may only be less than 1% of the total product, and the active ingredients in shampoo are the cleansers not the water content.

To help you understand cosmetic ingredients, there are some books such as the Chemical Maze by Bill Statham, and Dangerous Beauty by Dr Peter Dingle that are written in layman terms to explain the potential health effects of ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. Sometimes suppliers or sellers may be able to assist depending on their level of product knowledge and honesty.

Generally certified organic cosmetics cost more to buy than their non certified organic counterparts. Certified organic products do conform, depending on the certifier, to a standard and offer the consumer a level of product confidence.

However, the certification process is rigorous, expensive and beyond the reach of many cosmetic companies. As an alternative to certified organic products, there are caring companies who formulate their products free from toxic or harmful ingredients. Some of these products can be found in health food stores but it still pays to read the labels and refer to an ingredient book or the company’s website. Buying your products from sources that you know and trust is also helpful.

ReferencesCosmetics and toiletries: ingredient labelling, product information a mandatory standard guide – published December 2000 www.accc.gov.auEnvironmental Working Group SKIN DEEP cosmetic safety database www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/Information about cosmetic ingredients www.safecosmetics.org/Australian Certifying Bodies www.australianorganic.com.au/ www.nasaa.com.au/ www.organicfoodchain.com.au/International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (basic info) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Nomenclature_of_Cosmetic_IngredientsNew working draft for Cosmetics and Skin Care Products for addition to Australian Organic Standard edition2008 www.bfa.com.au/Portals/0/ACO%20Cosmetics%20Standard.pdf

Thanks to Caroline Taylor at Chrystalage Skin Care we have two beautiful lavender handcreams to give away to two lucky readers of the hillscene. To be one of the winners just write in and tell me why you love living in the hills. Email your story to hillscene@westnet.com.au (make it short and sweet).

Make sure to send in your address details so I can send you your prize. So get writing!

web: chrystalage.webs.com

Handcream give away

cont. from previous page

Magpie Cafe – Upwey

Some friends and I decided that for the sake of work we’d best check out the new Magpie Café in Upwey. We’d heard that it had lots of different yummy treats on the menu and it didn’t disappoint us. Run by Nicole it has a wonderful friendly atmosphere. There were lots of kids playing in the courtyard and we felt right at home.

My fellow tarts were Bree, Bec and Amanda. I think you’ll find that their names crop up often as they’re always ready to help out where needed!

I chose the eggs on organic sourdough with haloumi and avocado. Yum, I love haloumi and could have happily have just had that on its own. It was delicious. Bree had the lentil burger, as did Amanda. These were in Lebanese bread and eaten like a souvlaki. The only critique was that while the relish was delicious, it wasn’t spread evenly and was too much at the bottom. Bree did admit however that it could be easily fixed if they had looked inside and spread it themselves!

Prue then arrived and ordered the mushrooms and spinach on organic sourdough, topped with goats cheese. We’ve all since had this so that should speak for itself as it is really good.

Of course we had to sample the desserts. We got a range, trying the Raspberry friand and cream, lemon slice and breakfast muffin.

Nicole prides herself in using organic and wholesome foods, her way of putting it is that it’s food made with love. She says that she likes to cook food that she would make for her own family. Lucky family. The prices are reasonable, ranging from $4.00 for sandwiches or porridge to $16.00 for dips and bread. I really enjoyed my food there and of course the company and would definitely recommend going there.

48 Main Street, Upwey Ph: 9754 2124

Sarah O’Connor

I keep thinking “what do I want to be when I grow up?” and I always come up with the answer “a writer.” I’ve started two blogs www.autisticchildren.com.au about life with my special girl and www.skinnydreams.com. I now have the opportunity to write a food review column which combines both my love of writing and my love of food!

cafe tarts

Words and images by Adriana Alvarez

Recently I was asked to create a logo for SelbyFest. A new annual Festival which will be starting up this year on Sat 16th April at Minak Reserve in Selby. The brain child of Selby Community House and the Selby Folk Club. I’d like to share that journey with you.

This festival is a grassroots affair hoping to involve and engage the whole community so I felt that had to be reflected in the logo. The brief was that it should reflect the nature of the area, the lush vegetation, the hills, maybe incorporate the platypus which had recently been found in the area, etc. I started by doing some rough pencil sketches to try to capture this. I don’t usually show these to the client as they are rough and it takes a bit of imagination to see where they will lead but the first meeting was fast approaching and being a creative bunch, I decided to take these along and give the group a first glimpse at the ideas.

From these drawings three different ideas were chosen and I went home and drew these up properly on the computer with different colour and font options and sent them off again just

in time for the next meeting date. This was

to be a Bar-b-que to garner the support of the community. It was a lovely night lots on interested people so the logo ideas were shown around.

This is not the usual way a logo gets decided on but being a grassroots driven event it seemed appropriate to have some community input. Suggestions were thrown about and a vote was held between the two favourites. Some suggestions were that the fern should be more recognasible and the fonts were better when they were less formal. Again back to the drawing board or computer in this day and age. A few more changes, a few more options back and forth once or twice for final tweeking and the SelbyFest logo was finalised. Hopefully it reflects the nature of the hills, the fun of a festival and the warmth of community spirit.

SelbyFest - Music, Arts and Environment. including Selby Art Show, official opening Fri 15 April at the Selby Church Hall.

Ride Puffing Billy to Selby Station, and catch the shuttle bus to the festival. Great live music with acapella, theatre performance and a parade at sunset!

There will be art and pottery, Wu Tao, Tai Chi, belly dancing, Sing for fun, comic book art, Selby scientists, healing therapies, Karate, fire twirling, drumming and much more....

Market stalls, baby farm animals for the kids, face painting, environmental and sustainable living

displays, workshops, demos and lots of good info.

Make it a date in your diary - SelbyFest Sat 16 April 2011, Minak Reserve Wombalana Rd, Selby.

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creative partiesLet us provide a fun-filled and creative art experience for your party, in your home, that your child and guests will love.Ring us to find out more about our range of art activities to suit your child. We take care of the mess - you get all the fun! Also available:• Quality face painting for parties or events• Individual canvas painting

See our facebook page for all our great arty

products & servicesfacebook: Giddy Art

www.giddyart.com.au e: info@giddyart.com.au

mob: 0439 823 175 or 0408 789 978

* ceramic mugs* canvas painting* treasure boxes* dragon puppets

* magnets* badges* masks* face painting

Party activities to choose from

Individual canvas painting

A one on one session where we guide the child while they create their own unique artwork they will treasure. A great gift experience for family or friends.

We provide printable invitations for your party and a unique gift for your child.We bring everything you need for the activity and clean up.

giddy Artart for the young at heart