heritage walk
TRANSCRIPT
INTRODUCTION
“Campus Walk” is an effort of Architect Saif Ul Haque towards development of a
guideline for conservation policy of the sites in Dhaka University area and awareness. It
started during a slide presentation of architecture of Dhaka to the Asian Study group. The
enthusiastic audience proposed a tour to the architectural sites in Dhaka.
During the visit, viewing the condition of the built heritage initiated the architect to
undertake a comprehensive conservation project of the remains in the Dhaka University
area and the greater Ramna.
And from then on, a tour within the Dhaka University campus is arranged in irregular
basis. The sites visited in the Dhaka University campus is known as the “Campus Walk”.
The beginning of Dhaka University was a splendid Imperial compensation of the British
for the annulment of the partition of Bengal in 1911.
The suggested site for the University of Dhaka was the forming
part of the civil station at Ramna where a wave of building
activities were generated to house the provincial government
officials in 1905.
Dhaka has gone through many phases during her 400 years of
existence. The major historical phases of the city are
Mughal (1608 – 1764)
Colonial (1764-1947)
Modern
Interestingly, “Campus Walk” takes us to remain of each & every era that the city has
gone through.
The City of Dhaka throughout her history suffered from a lack of planning and relied very
much on spontaneous and haphazard growth. The demarcation of pre Mughal Dhaka,
Mughal Dhaka or Colonial period is on the verge of disappearing due to such
uncontrolled unplanned development process.
The objective of the walk is to
Creating awareness on built heritage
Preservation of the historic sites and significant buildings
Drawing attention to their conservation needs
1. HISTORY OF DHAKA UNIVERSITY CAMPUS
1.1 Decision of the establishment of a University
The partition of Bengal in 1905 gave people of Dhaka opportunities
to develop in education sector, economy that it was deprived from.
When the partition was annulled in 1911, the establishment of Dhaka
University came as compensation to its people in 1921.
1.2 The Site
The proposed site for the university was about one square mile area of Ramna civil line of
the government of East Bengal and Assam.
The history of Ramna dates back to 1610 of Mughal period. The name Ramna was also
given by the Mughal. At that time in Nilkhet two residential areas, Mahalla Chiestian and
Mahalla Sujatpur were developed for the Mughal High officials.
During the time of Islam Khan, Dhaka flourished as the capital of Mughal subader in
1608. When Shah Suja, shifted the capital to Rajmahal in 1640 along with many areas of
Dhaka, Ramna became barren.
From then on the city continued to decline until the middle of 18th century. With the
ascendant of the British, the middle 18th century marked an end to the decline and lead to
a physical renewal of the city.
Colonial Dhaka was divided broadly into two areas, one that overlapped and stretched
from the existing Mughal city and the other developed away from the existing city into
newer grounds. The later is Ramna.
Dhaka University Campus & its surrounding
The features of the renewed physical growth of this period were the attempts of the
colonial power to build urban environment they were familiar with in their adopted city.
The first rebuilding of Ramna started as early as 1825. The jungles of Ramna were
cleared for laying out a racecourse and a European club.
The gradual colonization of Ramna was started by way of constructing
garden and country houses in 1840, led by an Armenian landlord. The
first houses in Ramna found themselves in a real wilderness.
When the city became capital of new province of Bengal in 1905, the
government buildings were placed south of Ramna racecourse. A
spacious garden suburb with bungalows for civil servants was laid
out north of it.
The government buildings constructed during the partition of Bengal were government
houses, educational institutes and residences of civil servants. Curzon Hall, Old High
Court was built at this time. This new official enclave was given away to the Dhaka
University after the annulment of the partition.
At present, the area from the Arts Faculty of Dhaka University to Bangla academy was
known as Sujatpur. To the south west of the old racecourse was the area named
“Chiestian”.
The Nawabs of Dhaka developed Shahbag during the colonial period; it was part of the
“Bag e Padshahi”, the Mughal garden. Which was also a part of Ramna. The Nawab’s
pleasure garden lives in documents only. Now the university Arts Faculty and Institute of
Fine Arts are here.
1.3 Reminiscences of the past
The historical background of Dhaka University area identifies that it
not only owns elegant buildings from the British colonial rule but also
of different artifices of different historical phases that the city has gone
through.
Dhaka University also introduced the modern architecture of
Bangladesh with the two great buildings, Institute of Fine Arts and the
Dhaka University Library, then known as Public Library.
The edifices of different periods existing in the campus are
1. Musa Khan mosque
2. Khaza Shahbaz mosque and tomb
3. Nimtoli Dewri
4. Greek mausoleum
5. Ghuru Dawra
6. Temple inside Teacher Student Center
7. Curzon Hall
8. Darbar Hall
9. Fazlul Haque hall
10. Salimullah Hall
11. Medical College
12. Bardhaman house
13. Dhaka university Vice Chancellor house
14. Art College
15. Dhaka University Library
16. Teacher student center, Dhaka University
17. Shiv temple
2. CAMPUS WALK
2.1 The Tour
The buildings visited in the “Campus Walk” are tomb, two different styles of mosques,
and a house to accommodate the council member of the governor of the colonial emperor.
Of modern period are a institution and one library. Most of these buildings are still in use.
The chronological lists of these edifices are
1. Musa Khan Mosque (early 17th century, Pre Mughal era)
2. Khaza Shahbaz Mosque & Tomb (1679,Mughal)
3. Greek Memorial (1843)
4. Curzon Hall (1904, Colonial)
5. Bardhaman House (1906, Colonial)
6. Art College (1953, Modern)
7. Dhaka University Library (1952~1955, Modern)
8. Teacher Student Center (1966, Modern)
2.2 The Edifices
The following describes and assess the architectural qualities of the buildings and their
historical context.
Mosque of Musa Khan (Early 17th century):
The Subader Islam Khan was send to the province to calm the rebelling “Baro Bhuiyans”,
the sovereign rulers of Sonargaon. Musa khan was the son of Isa Khan, who was the most
prominent of the “Baro Bhuiyans”. It is believed that Musa Khan has erected this mosque
in the early 17th century. But Dani has shown that the mosque was actually built by the
grandson of Musa Khan.
The mosque is located in the northwest corner of the
present Shahidullah Hall. It was known as “Bag E
Musa” at that time. Which means the garden of the
Muslims.
The mosque was built on a high platform above a series of living cells. Its eastern paneled
face is pierced with 3 arched doorways. Each opening under a half dome and flanked on
either side with slender pilasters.
There are four-corner turrets and the prayer chamber is covered with 3-shouldered domes,
each resting on a battlemented rim. The grave of Musa khan is located to the northeast of
the mosque.
It is the only remains of pre Mughal Dhaka.
Khaza Shahbaz Mosque & Tomb (1679):
With a Mughal mosque, a tomb structure and an almost intact gateway, “Khaza Shahbaz”
is a trace of very few extant Mughal structures in the city.
Haji Khaza Shahbaz was known as the merchant prince.
It was the era when Bengal was experiencing the status of provincial Mughal
capital. At that time, Shaista Khan was the subedar. It was the golden phase
in history of Dhaka. Khaza Shahbaz built the mosque in 1679 AD
The mosque is situated upon a high land in the northwest part of the
complex. Stylistically, the mosque belongs to the Shaista Khani architecture. Externally it
measures 68’x25’ elongated to the north south. It has four octagonal turrets at four
corners, rising little above the roof level. The mosque featured three domes on a spacious
oblong structure.
The tomb structure is situated upon another highland 50’ northeast of the mosque. The
structure is derived from the basic module of indo Islamic tomb structure. A
hemispherical dome was upon a cubic volume. The south wall had 3 entries, of which
only the middle one now exists. Four octagonal turrets in four corners rise vertically over
the roof ending up into solid kiosks. The extended part of the tomb of Shahbaz is covered
by douchala vault, which is an indigenous influence of Mughal architecture.
Use of bold panel work upon plastered wall, controlled use of low relief work of
vegetable origin, small blind arches and an attempt to make the simply double curved
arch more impressive by using multi foiled plaster work, all indicates a Mughal style with
the essence of local influence.
Once to the southwest corner of Ramna racecourse, the mosque and the tomb stand in
solitary. Now, at the west there stands the red brick Shishu academy and another corner
the sculptural mausoleum of the three leaders. The mosque stands in midst of these
structures testifying time.
Greek Memorial (1840 ~ 1843):
The first Greek settlement at Dhaka was established in the second half of the 18th
century. They were the descendants of Alexis Argyree, the founder of the geek colony at
Calcutta. Alexis and others at that time setup their residences in Dhaka and Bakerganj.
The first church of the Greek was built in 1821. But it collapsed during the
devastated earthquake of 1897. Some referred that they also had their separate
small cemetery in Sujatpur, which is now in the Dhaka university campus.
The only reminiscence of the Greek now is the tomb of an unknown person in
the Dhaka University's Teacher student center compound on Kazi Nazrul Islam Avenue.
It is a square building with projecting bays on 4 sides. The plan is of cruciform
in shape. The projecting bays on each face consist of 2 fluted Doric columns
each carrying a triangular pediment.
The eastern face is inscribed with a Greek inscription “blessed are those who
came and received”. The entrance to the memorial is from the east. There are
nine black stone inscriptions on the interior walls. Five are in Greek and four in English.
This little tomb now stands silently in the corner of the lawn of the university’s teacher
student center grilled to avoid disturbance. Some stops by to figure out the reasons of its
existence there. Some just pass by without knowing.
Curzon Hall (1904):
In 1904, the premise of Dhaka College was decided to move to Nimtoli. For that purpose
65 ekor of land was acquired from the Railway Department. The Bhawal Princes
promised to build a library for the College in the acquired land. The library was named
after then governor, Lord Curzon. This is the premises of the now Science faculty of the
Dhaka University, the Curzon Hall.
Curzon Hall is the earliest of the buildings that came in existence during the first
partition of Bengal in 1904. Lord Curzon himself laid its foundation in 1904, 19th
February.
The building illustrated a blending of Mughal and European Renaissance
architecture. An Artist from Rajasthan prepared the design of the building. The building
is symmetrical in plan facing north. It has a central hall and series of rooms in the either
side of its east and west wings. It’s central projecting bay with wide arched portals
windows above has a compelling charm of it’s own.
The length, breadth and the height of the building are 110’x60’x48’. The
verandas have fretted screens with arched openings. The arched opening
in the ground floor is of European style while upper floor opening is
influenced by Mughal architecture. Its elevations are attractively
variegated by a series of panels, bracketed eaves and kiosks crowning
the roof. The corners are relieved with minars.
As the science faculty grew, a number of three and four storey buildings
were built in close proximity of the Curzon Hall to accommodate
various science departments including one dormitory.
These buildings were built of red oxide coated exposed brick and according to
architectural vocabulary of the Curzon Hall. These buildings have given the campus a
sense of aesthetic consistency and dignity.
Bardhaman House (1906):
Dhaka being the capital in 1905 was vibrant with building activities of hybrid
Mughal and European style. Along with beautiful structures for government
offices and residences for officials were built in different location in the vast
Ramna.
The administrative council members came to Dhaka on official work once a
year. Three important building for them were built during this time.
“Bardhaman House” is one of these three buildings constructed in
1906. Maharaja of Bardhaman built this building for his convenience.
The building was originally a two-storied building. It is an exclusive
colonial style of the late 19th century and early 20th century.
The plan is rectangular in shape. The central bay is projected out with the main entrance
portico. Wide arcaded veranda runs in front of the structure with balustrade railings. The
arches are all semi circular. The verandahs act as shading devices and easy circulation.
There are semicircular open balconies. The main arcaded portico through a flight of red
oxide steps to the building leads to the wooden staircase giving access to the upper story.
Another floor was added in 1985.
After the partition of 1947, the building as used as official residence of the new prime
minister of East Bengal. It was on December 3 1955, Bardhaman house was declared the
Bangla academy, an institution devoted to the development of language, literature and
culture of our country.
Art College (1953):
Construction of the Art College in 1955 on the west of the Suhrawardi Uddyan in Dhaka
marked a distinct and definite change in architectural scene in Bangladesh. The use of
exposed brickwork and roof overhangs reflected the architect’s concern for exploration of
the aesthetic possibilities of indigenous building materials and means to ensure protection
from the climate.
The site is a beautiful wooded tract of land.
The front block of school stands on pilotis allowing entering the building
without any obstacle. The openness of the building is thus established.
Hand made terracotta jails were used to define boundaries and
spaces and also used in the veranda railings. Conscious efforts were
made to interrelate the open space within and outside the school
boundaries.
The pathways through levels of enclosures and garden spaces and a natural and sensorial
ambience, create a campus ideal for the contemplation and learning of arts.
The site of Art College was garden of the Nawabs. There was a pond for the female
members of the Nawab family. It had artificial system of filing and drainage of water.
According to the historian Muntasir Mamoon it’s the dry pond in the Art College.
The few public spaces that still exist in Dhaka; Art college premise is one of them.
Whether it’s to welcome baishak (Bengali new year), or falgun (spring) or to protest, the
Institute of Fine Arts is always vibrant with people, with color.
Dhaka University Library (1952~55):
The construction of the Public library (now Dhaka University library) marked the Bengali
modernism introduced by architect Muzharul Islam.
In the Library, flat roofed rectangular volumes lifted from
the ground on cylindrical pilotis, a simple arrangement of
masses, free flowing and interpenetrating spaces,
sunbreakers and screen walls for cutting the glare of the
sun are the dominant features.
Several addition and alteration has been done to the interior of the library to
accommodate the present need. These changed the quality of the space that the building
was actually designed for.
TSC (1966):
To meet the increasing number of students in 1961, a division of Student Affairs of
Dhaka University was formed. This division was later integrated into Teacher Student
Center. The construction of the building started in 1962 and completed in 1966.
TSC is a complex of buildings, providing a wide variety of recreational and cultural
facilities. The center includes a cafeteria, an auditorium with a capacity of 1000, and a
library, reading room, art and music rooms and a stage. It also includes other facilities
such as swimming pool, a provision store, a bookshop and a bank.
Beside the swimming pool, there are unidentified remains of 2 temples and a tomb of a
so-called zamider. There is also a temple of lord Shiva just outside the TSC complex.
According to the priest of the temple, the builder of that temple and these structures are
the same zamider. Inadequate information binds us from being sure. But as the Greek
tomb in the complex, these structures also testifying time from their very beginning.
3 SCOPE OF THE PROJECT
3.1 Prospect of “Campus Walk”
The guideline for developing the campus walk in brief can be sketched out as
Literature survey of published material on the concerned buildings and
area.
Description of the edifices.
Study of existing drawings and photographs
Study of Map of Dhaka University campus.
Survey of existing condition
Photographic survey
“Campus Walk” is at present dealing with the preparation of a general report of
historical analysis and architectural quality of the buildings in concern. This
survey analysis would lead to the answer of the questions
What to conserve
Why to conserve
3.2 Ownership
Though we are saying, it’s a campus walk, the buildings visited in the tour are under
different ownership. Bardhaman House is under “Bangla Academy”; Shahbaz Khan’s
mosque is under the Archeology Department. The rest of them are under the authority of
Dhaka University except Musa Khan mosque and Greek memorial
The Dhaka University Engineering Division is the responsible authority for the
maintenance of the buildings in the campus area. On the recommendation of this division,
the University syndicate takes decisions regarding the funds and other matters.
In 1985, the collapse of Jagannath Hall common room is a tragic example of what could
be also the fate of Curzon hall if not being properly maintained. Jagannath Hall was one
of the first three halls built for Dhaka University. We grieve the death of the students, but
we should have also counted the responsibility of destruction of our built heritage.
The yearly maintenance cost of the lime cement structure of Curzon Hall is rather low. If
the structure were maintained, the situation wouldn’t have as much grave as now. The
corner pillars of the Curzon hall are at present broken. Recently, the balconies of the
Curzon Hall annex have been removed as they were in the condition of falling down.
The renovation or maintenance of the architectural edifices has long been avoided on
grounds of insufficient funds. Proper maintenance could save the buildings falling into
ruins.
ANNEX
Conservation situation in Bangladesh
The law that guides the activities of the Archaeological Department at present was
formulated nearly 100 years ago with very little revision in the recent past. Buildings of
excellence colonial period like Curzon hall, Chummery house, Ruplal house or the
modern architecture of Muzharul Islam or Louis I Kahn’s masterpiece doesn’t confirms
the criteria that is set for to be preserved as heritage as per the legislation of the country.
It focuses more on independent structures or ruins than areas or parts of cities.
Conservation of urban areas remains totally out of consideration.
An important conservation event of the city is the conservation and the
restoration of the Nawab’s palace known, as the Ahsan Manjil. The
palace was conserved, restored and converted into a museum
(1975-1989) by the government architects and engineers. But the
building and her compounds may have been conserved well but it failed
for the conserving the surroundings.
The understanding of conservation whether it is for historical, environmental or economic
reason still remains at a very insignificant level among the city dwellers and decision-
makers.
Conservation in Practice
In the social and economical context of Bangladesh, the decision of preserving an old
building is somewhat very difficult. Considering the monetary value of the location often
the owner demolish building that has historical significance to us.
Sometimes because of non-technical and unskilled persons handling the delicate matter of
restoration and preservation, the character of the architectural monuments are being
altered and tamper with.
In colonial time, the Nawab family of Dhaka developed the area Shahbag. They build
their garden house here. Nawab Abdul Gani also built a zoo in the area. The main garden
house name was “Ehsrat Manjil”. This building was demolished while building the Art
Faculty building for the Dhaka University.
One of the small structures of the nawab’s garden house was in the
Dhaka Museum complex. But the museum authority has removed it. The
“Darbar Hall” of the building is at present the canteen of the Dhaka University. In 1906,
the Muslim League was formed in this building. The fate of this small structure is not also
known.
These decisions of the authorities questions how much are we aware of our historic past?
Should we not ask ourselves what merit does the building posses before dismantling!
Adoptive reuse of the structures may have been considered if experts were consulted.
Awareness
The initiatives in conservation field are few seminars and workshops organized by
number of architects and architectural institutions. A study group “CHETANA” covered
one of the initiatives taken by organizations rather than the government is documentation
of significant monuments across the country. The other notable documentation was done
by the department of architecture of the Engineering University devoted to old Dhaka.
The citizens committee in Chittagong, the second largest city of the country successfully
saved the century old court building from demolition. In addition, in the same city, a
private telecom company who will use it as their office as well as preserve it leased the
rail station from colonial times.
CONTENTS
Introduction
1. History of Dhaka University Campus
1.1 Decision of the establishment of a University
1.2 The Site
1.3 Reminiscences of the past
2. Campus Walk
2.1 The Tour
The Edifices
3. Scope Of The Project
3.1 Prospect of “Heritage Walk”
3.2 Responsible Authorities
Annex
Conservation situation in Bangladesh
Conservation in Practice
Awareness
REFERENCES
Author/Edited by Book
Ahmed Sharif Uddin Dacca: A case study in urban history and development, London: 1986
A.H. Dani Dacca, Dacca, 1957
Ashraf, Kazi Khaleed An architecture of IndependenceBelluardo, James the making of modern south Asia
Islam, Nazrul Dhaka: from city to mega city, Dhaka January 1996
Karim, Abdul Dacca the Mughal capital, Dacca 1964
Mamoon, Muntasir Dhaka Smriti Bsmiritir NogoriDhaka’r hariey jawa chobir khujeyKornel Davidson jokhon dhakayDhakar tukitaki
O’Doyly, Charles Antiquities of Dacca, London, 1824
Rahim, Abdur History of Dacca University, Dacca, 1981
Roy, Jatindramohan Dhakar Itihas
Sarkar, Jadunath History of Bengal, vol ii, Dacca, 1948
Taifoor, S.M. Glimpses of Dhaka, Dhaka, 1984
Papers/Newsletter/Magazine/News paper
Urban Transformation and the Issue of Conservation in DhakaBy Saif Ul Haque
Star City Monday April 5, 2004Monday March 1, 2004Monday February 16, 2004
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