#Harold 1/16

Harold by

#Harold 2/16

It's the Harold dress shirt with pockets that makes for a styl-ish outfit. The look you end up with changes based on how

you choose to combine it. It can be worn open with a T-shirt underneath or simply be worn buttoned up. The shirt is made

of striped jacquard fabric and is relatively close-fitting.

XS - XL

Harold by

#Harold 3/16

• Thread

• Buttons (ø 1.1 cm): 9

• Iron-on interfacing: max. 70 cm

• Cotton/light-weight fabric:

max. 70 cm

• Fabric: see table

Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the top and/or the sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines and then spreading the pattern pieces out X cm from each other or overlapping them where needed. Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams are always straight.

supplies

Chest size (CS): Measure horizontally at the widest point of the bust. Hip measurement (HM): Measure horizontally at the widest point of the lower body.

sizing chart

size (EU)

UK

CS (cm)

WM (cm)

HM (cm)

measurements

IMP

O

RTANT

Adapt the amount of fabric used to the alterations that you are making to the pattern!

* the sleeve length includes the shoulder length.

size XS S M L XL

length (average, cm) 71.5 72.5 73.5 74.5 75.5

1/2 chest size (average, cm) 49.75 53.75 57.75 61.75 65.75

Sleeve length* (cm) 73.5 74.75 76 77.25 78.75

size XS S M L XL

EU 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58

CS (cm) 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116

HM (cm) 82 86 90 94 98 102 106 110 114 118

size XS-M L XL

fabric* (cm) 160 165 190

size XS-M L XL

stripe print fabric* (cm) 180 185 195

* 150 cm wide

* 140 cm wide

CS

HM

#Harold 4/16

pattern pieces & seam allowances (in cm)

front: 2xback: 1x on fabric foldsleeve: 2x collar: 1x fabric (4F)1x cotton (4C)collar band: 2x on fabric fold wrist trim: 2xbias arm split: 2xfront facing: 2xback facing: 1x on fabric foldbreast pocket: 1xbreast pocket flap: 1x fabric (11F) 1x cotton (11C)pocket: 1xflap: 1x fabric (13F)1x cotton (13C)

1234

5

67

89

1011

1213

Indicate important points on the outline of the pattern:

• Nick the pattern paper and fabric at the places where a single vertical line ( ) and double vertical lines ( ) are indicated.

• Cut out a small V notch from the paper and fabric where a ( ) is marked on pattern pieces 10 and 12.

• Cut a small corner ( notch) out of pieces 2, 4, 5 and 9, which lie on the fabric fold, to mark the middle of these pieces.

Mark where the buttons (x), button holes (I-I), and where the pockets and flaps and the end of the seam split ( ) are using needle and thread.

The Harold dress shirt is made using a medium-weight jacquard. A number of different fabrics work here, to include: denim, cotton twill, corduroy, and wool fabrics, etc.

fabric advice

IMP

O

RTANT

The pieces highlighted in light yellow are attached along the wrong side using iron-on interfacing.

5

13

13C

11

11C

2

4

4F

1

6

10

12

3

7

C

F

F

9

8

0

0

00

0

0

0

0

LFP

RFP

Draw 1 cm all the way around the paper pattern pieces unless stated otherwise in the illustrations. The sides of pieces 2, 4, 5 and 9 on the fabric fold ( ) do not have any seam allowance.

5/16#Harold

fabric plan

1

2 4 5 510 12

1313

11

6

3

1. for solid fabric 140 cm wide

XS - L

SELVEDGE

FABRIC FOLD

XL

1

2

6

3

4 5 5

10 1213

11

SELVEDGE

FABRIC FOLD

2A. for striped fabric 150 cm wide

1

2

3

6

4 5 5

10

13

11

12

XS - XL

Pattern pieces 1 and 2 must be lined up at the same height (see red line). Pattern pieces 10 and 11 must be on the same pattern lines as the basting threads of part 1 (see green lines). Pattern pieces 12 and 13 must be on the same pattern lines as the basting threads of part 1 (see blue lines).

Pattern pieces 11 and 13 are only needed 1x in fabric.

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

#Harold 6/16

sewing instructions

The method used to finish sewing the garment depends on the fabric used. The pieces are always sewn together with the right sides of the fabric matching exactly, unless stated otherwise.

Key with symbols

right side

wrong side

cotton right side

cotton wrong side

iron-on interfacing

CF centre front

CB centre back

RF right front

LF left front

FF front facing

BF back facing

2B. for cotton and light-weight fabrics 140 cm wide

8

7

9

11

13

4

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

Pattern pieces 11 and 13 are only needed 1x in cotton.

#Harold 7/16

1

Finish the top of the breast pocket (10) and the pocket (12) using an overlock stitch.

Always fold the top of the pocket down to the V notch. Sew into place at 2.5 cm.

Fold and press the other edges over to the wrong side.

Pin the chest pocket to the LF (1) at the place marked. Sew in place right next to the edge. Finish by sewing reinforcement triangles at the corners of the pocket.

Pin the other pocket to the RF (1) at the marked points. Sew in place right next to the edge. Finish by sewing reinforcement triangles at the corners of the pocket.

Pin and sew the contours (not the right side) of both pieces of the breast pocket's flap (11F and 11C) and the other flap (13F and 13C).

Cut triangles out of the seam allowance.

LF1

10

RF

12

1

1311

1311

11 13

10 12

#Harold 8/16

11 13

11 13

11 13

11 13

8

Turn inside out and place both flaps side-by-side, with the seam allowance towards the cotton flap. 2 mm from the seam, sew through all the layers of the cotton flap. Sew this as far as you can.

Fold the flaps back with the wrong sides facing.

Make horizontal buttonholes at the place marked.

Pin the raw edges of both flaps at the basting stitches above the pocket. Sew into place at 0.5 cm.

Always fold the flap down and sew in place using an edge stitch.

Finish the edge of the front facing without the nicks (8) using an overlock stitch.

9/16#Harold

Pin and sew the front facing to the front.

Fold the front and the seam allowance out of the way and sew the facing into place right next to the seam and through all the layers of fabric.

Leave the facing folded down at the hem.

Cut V notches from the seam allowance in the curves.

Overlock the side and shoulder seams.

2

Finish the edge of the back facing without the nicks (9) using an overlock stitch.

1

8

1

8

1 8 1 8

9

10/16#Harold

Pin and sew the facing to the back hem with the nicks matching.

Fold the facing and the seam allowance out of the way and sew the facing into place right next to the seam and through all the layers of fabric. Leave the facing folded down.

Overlock the side and shoulder seams (with facing folded down).

3

Pin and sew the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowance open.

2

9

2

9

1

11/16#Harold

4

Pin and sew the contour of the collars (4) to each other, except for the bottom.

Grade and trim the corner seam allowances at the corners.

Fold the collars open so that they lie next to each other. Fold the seam allowance toward the sewn undercollar and sew the collar into place at 2 mm from the seam through all layers of fabric. Press the collar neatly back to the back of the top of the collar.

Press 1 cm of the bottom of one collar band to the wrong side.

Place both collar bands with the front sides facing back-to-back (the collar band with the pressed edge should be facing up) and slide the collar in between. The sewn undercollar should be on top. Pin and sew the pieces together. Grade and trim the corner seam allowances at the curves. Turn the collar bands inside out.

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

4

5 5

4 4

5 5

4 4

5

5

12/16#Harold

Pin and sew the bottom of the collar band that has not been pressed to the neckline along the inside of the back piece. The front facing is nicely attached to the back of the front.

Fold the collar and the collar band to the right side of the piece, toward the neckline and place the edge of the ironed collar band directly on the seam. Pin and sew the collar band in place. Finish the stitching around the collar band.

5

Pin and sew the side seams of the front and back and do the same for the front facing and back facing (the hem facing is folded down).

Press the seam allowance open.

6

Fold the nicks at the bottom of the sleeve (3) together in the direction indicated. Sew securely at the bottom at 0.5 cm.

54

112

1

3

3

13/16#Harold

Overlock the sleeve side seams.

Cut on the indicated line up to the basting thread to create the sleeve split.

Iron the bias arm split (7) as follows: first press in half length-wise and then fold 1 cm lengthwise over to the wrong side and press.

Open the sleeve split so that you end up with a single straight line. Slide the bias arm split under the sleeve with the right side facing up. Match the edge that hasn’t been pressed to the edge of the arm split and pull the sleeve a bit to the side at the basting thread. Sew into place at 0.5 cm. Only a few fabric threads have been sewn in place at the basting thread.

Fold the bias toward the right side of the sleeve and place the pressed fold line directly on the stitching. Sew in place right next to the edge.

Fold the sleeve in half crosswise, with the right side facing in. Sew the top of the bias together at an angle.

Fold the bias at the front of the sleeve back toward the wrong side of the sleeve and sew in place. The part with the fold indicates which side is the sleeve front.

3

7

37

37

3 737

3 7

1 cm

3

14/16#Harold

Fold the bias at the front of the sleeve back toward the wrong side of the sleeve and sew in place. The part with the fold indicates which side is the sleeve front.

Pin and sew the sleeve sides. Press the seam allowance open.

Press the wrist trim in half lengthwise with the right side on the outside.

On the long side where the basting threads are located, fold 1 cm over and press.

Fold the wrist trim in half where the pressed fold line is with the right side of the fabric facing outward. Sew the short sides.

Turn inside out.

Slide the wrist trim into the sleeve and pin the unpressed raw edge against the sleeve bottom along the wrong side. Sew in place. Turn the wrist trim over to the right side of the sleeve. Lay the fold line directly onto the stitching. Sew in place next to the edge.

Finish the stitching around the wrist trim.

3

6

3

6

3

1 c

m

3

15/16#Harold

7

Pin the sleeve cap to the armhole, matching the correspond-ing nicks. The single sleeve nick matches the single front nick, the double sleeve nick lines up with the double nick on the back. The top single sleeve nick matches the shoulder. Distribute the ‘excess’ fabric between the nicks. Sew and overlock the raw edges together.

8

Sew the facing in place.

2

3

2 1

1

8 12

16/16#Harold

9

Make vertical button holes on the front. The top and bottom of the buttonhole are marked on the pattern. Divide the distance equally for the other button holes.

Sew the buttons on at the indicated places. Sew a button on each of the pockets at the front. (These match up with the flaps’ button holes)

Make horizontal buttonholes in the wrist trims at the places marked.

On the right-hand side of the collar band, make a horizontal buttonhole halfway up and 1 cm away from the edge.