COSMETICSM.Swetha

Cosmetics for hair

HAIR COSMETICS

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HAIR TONICS1

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HAIR OIL

HAIR REMOVERS

HAIR COLOURENTS

SHAVING PREPARATION

HAIR TONICS

• For Oily Scalps: To correct the oily condition……

• For Dry scalps: to supplement oily character…..

Hair conditioner

• Hair conditioner alter the texture and appearance of human

hair and to improve damaged hair.

• Used after shampoo, to render the hair shinier, easy to comb,

and free from static electricity when dry.

• Conditioners are usually based on cationic detergents and

fatty materials like lanolin or mineral oil.

Ingredients 1. Moisturizers.

• Whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually these

contain high proportions of humectants.

2. Re constructors.

• Usually containing hydrolyzed protein.

• Their role is to penetrate the hair and strengthen its structure

through polymer cross linking.

3. Detanglers.

• Which modify the hair surface by pH as acidifiers, and/or by

coating it with polymers, as glossers.

4. Acidifiers.

• Acidity regulators which maintain the conditioner's pH at

about 2.5–3.5

5.Thermal protectors.

• Usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against

excessive heat

e.g., blow-drying or curling irons or hot rollers.

6. Surfactants.

• Hair consists of approximately 97% of a protein called keratin, it

contains negatively-charged amino acids

• Hair conditioners therefore usually contain cationic surfactants,

which don't wash out completely, because their hydrophilic ends

strongly bind to keratin.

• The hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules then act as the

new hair surface.

7. Oils (EFAs).

Which can help dry/porous hair become more soft and

pliable.

8. Sequestrants.

The scalp produce natural oil called sebum. EFAs are the

closest thing to natural sebum.

9. Lubricants.

Such as fatty alcohols, panthenol, dimethicone, etc for better

function in hard water.

Hair oil

• For nourishment and care of hair.

• Either in the form of pure oil or some ingredients are

dissolved in it.

HAIR REMOVERS

EPILATORIESDEPILATORIES

Mechanical Chemical

For removing unwanted hairs. Several methods

like waxing threading etc…

Other various methods are electrolysis and diathermy.

Depilatories • For degradation of superficial hair

chemically without affecting the skin.

• Act by degrading the hair keratin.

• Contain alkaline solutions and reducing

agents.

• Which cause swelling of hair fiber and

breakdown of cystine bridges between

adjacent polypeptide chains.

Formula

1. Strontium sulphide

2. Talc

3. Methyl cellulose

4. Glycerine

5. Water

6. Perfume

7. Preservative

20g

20g

3g

15g

42g

q.s

q.s

Ingredients

1. Inorganic Sulphides :

a) Sodium sulphide: (2%) at pH 12 (not used due to

strong action on skin)

b) Barium sulphide: highly toxic

c) Calcium sulphide: less toxic, less effective.

d) Strontium sulphide: better choice.(25-50%)

action within 3 min.

Disadv: unpleasent odour (formation of hydrogen

sulphide)

2.Thioglycolates :

Most widely used active ingredient are substituted

mercaptans

Used in conjugation with alkali

2.5 – 4% of calcium thioglycolate in conjugn with CaOH at

pH 11-12 take 5-15 min for hair removal.

Less toxic and less odour than sulphides.

3. Stannites :

Sodium stannite is commonly used

In presence of water it produces strong reducing and alkaline

effect

4. Enzymes :

Keratinase enzyme have depilatory action

Non irritant and odourless

3-4%is used and optimum pH is 7-8

5. Other additives :

Humectant : prevent quick drying

Eg: Glycerin, Sorbitol

Thickening Agent: Starch, Methylcellulose, Mucin.

PEG used to form film.

Fat used for skin protection & conditioning.

EPILATORIES

• Plucking the hair either by tweezers,

threading or by waxing.

• Rosin and wax are the main ingredient.

• Local anesthetic benzocain.

• Camphor, Hexachlorophane is also

added.

CHEMICAL

ANALYSIS

TOXICITY

TEST

STABILITY

TESTRHEOLOGY

•Estimation of hair

removing agent.

•Instrumental analysis•Rabbit test.

•Microscopical study

Accelarated stability

studyViscometer

EVALUATION

SHAVING PPREPARATION

• Preparation used before shaving• Preparation used after shavingWet shaving preparation .Dry shaving preparation .After shave preparation .

Preparation used before shaving

1. For shaving with razor blade.classified in to ,

I. Shaving soaps: solids and creams

II. Brushless shaving cream.

III. Aerosol preparation.

Types of shaving

preparation

• Beard softening cream

• Lather shaving sticks

• Lather shaving soaps

• Aerosol shaving foams

• Brushless shaving creams

• Brushless shaving sticks

• Beard softening cream –These pre shave preparation are used to wet and soften the beard and to lubricate the skin.

• Used to facilitate razor It contains

Lime soap-dispersing agents

Anti bacterial agent-menthol

Preservative- tri ethanolamine stearate,

lanoline

Surfactant-tweens ,Spans

• Lather shaving cream

• Fatty oils + Hydroxides to form soap

• 30 -50 % soaps

• Humectant

• Emollients –lanoline ,cetyl alcohol ,mineral

oil

• Surfactant

• Anti bacterial agent-menthol

Lather shaving sticks

• 80% Fatty acid soaps.

• 5-10% glycerol .

• 8-10% water.

• Aerosol shaving foams

• tri ethanolamine , potassium Hydroxide

saponification with propellants.

• Surfactants,

humectant,lubricants,propellant,perfume.

• Heated shaving foams –increase the

temperature

2. For electric shaving.

For lubrication: Talc, Magnesiumstearate

To absorb perspiration: Kaolin, Magnesium Carbonate

For drying the skin : Alcohol

Astringent And Antiseptics

Preparation used after shaving• To cool and refresh the skin.

• Used in the form of lotions, creams and powders.

• Contain antiseptics, emollient etc.

• Also contain menthol, glycerin, boric acid, alum and

chloroform.

• For after shave lotion:1. Antiseptic property.

2. Determination of alcohol content

3. Dermatological test.

Hair lighteners and bleaches

• Bleaching, also referred to as hair lightening or

decolorizing

• Destruction of melanin by chemical reaction.

• Hydrogen peroxide (3-5%) and ammonium hydroxide are

frequently used.

• EDTA – sequestering agent

HAIR COLORENTS /DYES

• Ideal hair dye should have certain properties……

• Imprtant charecterestic to be considered are,

Molecular size and pH

• Doesn’t permit molecules larger than ethylene glycol.

• Higher pH greater absorption but damage the hair.

Common ingredients in hair dyes:In general, hair dyes include

DYES

• The dye chemicals are usually amino compounds.

• Metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide and iron oxide, are

often used as pigments.

MODIFIERS• They stabilize the dye pigments or otherwise act to modify the

shade.

• One commonly used - resorcinol.

Alkalizers

• Alkalizers are added to change the pH of the dye formula,

because the dyes work best in a highly alkaline composition.

• Ammonium hydroxide is a common alkalizer.

Antioxidants

• Antioxidants protect the dye from oxidizing with air. Most

commonly used is sodium sulfite.

Ammonia: used to open hair shaft for dye penetration.

Agents which make the dye more or less permanent.

Soaps, wetting agents, fragrance, softening agents.

Classification

Temporary colorant

Semi- permanent colorant

Permanent colorant

Lightners or Bleaches

Temporary Color

These dyes or colorants impart color to the hair for a

short time.

Absorption of the dye stuff takes place only on hair

cuticle not penetrate in to the cortex and medulla.

pH of the solution is adjusted at about 5.

Semitransparent Colorants

These colorants give stronger coloration to the hair, and can

withstand up to six to eight shampooing.

Mainly based on basic dye stuff of nitro amino dyes. These are

usually red or yellow.

A mixture anionic and / or non ionic surfactant with a cation

active dye is used to get semitransparent coloring.

Formation of anion cation colour complex.

Permanent colorants

• These are either vegetable origin or salts of heavy metals.

• The main ingredients of the formulations are

1. Base: Solution, emulsion , Gel, Powder, Shampoo.

2. Dye: Oxidation Base

3. Alkali: Ammonia.

4. Antioxidants: Ammonium Thioglycolate.

EVALUATION

Antiseptic

property

Stability

testSensitivity

test

In vitro anti microbiological tests

against some specific organisms

using liquid or solid medium

Effect of heat, light etc on the

stability.Accelerated stability study

is done for determining stability.

Antiseptics,may cause irritation, sensitization

or photosensitization of the skin. This can be

done by patch test, either open or occlusive.

evaluation

• For shaving preparation:1. Determination of free caustic alkali.

2. Determination of potash soap.

3. Determination of total free acid.

4. Determination of total fatty material

5. Foam formation

6. Skin sensitization.

7. Stability of the cream