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Growing Fruit and Berries Susanne Howard Research Specialist Missouri State University

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Growing Fruit and Berries

Susanne Howard Research Specialist

Missouri State University

Location, Location, Location • Most fruit trees can tolerate a wide range of

soils, except for areas where water tends to stand for a long time

• Full sun • Frost pocket • Micro climate: north vs south slopes,

buildings • POWERLINES!!

Planting • Bareroot vs container • Planting time • Planting hole size, depth, soil

amendments • Graft union 2-4” above soil level • Fertilize a few months after planting

• If tree is not pruned, prune at planting

Spacing

• dwarf (8-12’) semi-dwarf(10-16’), full size or seedling(15-20’)

• Allow space/access all around for mowing, spraying, picking

• Consider espalier if space really is a problem or a 2-in-1 tree

• Irrigation

Which Type of Fruit ?

• Pome fruit: apple, pear, Asian pear, quince, hawthorn, service berry, loquat, medlar, rose hips, pyracantha

Loquat

Hawthorn

Medlar

Serviceberry

Which Type of Fruit?

• Stone fruit: apricot, peach (nectarine), (almond), plum, cherry, chokecherry

• Crosses: peachcot, plumcot (which can be pluots or apriums, depending which parent they resemble more), cherrycot

• With the exception of almonds, seeds and leaves of all stone fruit contain amygdalin, a cyanogenic compound

Aprium

Why do I not have any apricots? • Bloom time • Determined by “chilling requirement” • Apricots; plums, cherries; peaches, pears;

apples

Other fruit • Jujube: rust colored when ripe,

need to soften, often sold dried • Persimmon • Pawpaw • Aronia • Azarole

Apple Varieties • Thousands of varieties! • How to choose: check with other

tree owners, local extension offices, or just trial and error

• Pollination: bloom time, some cultivars have sterile pollen, some are self-pollinating but will set better if cross-pollinated

• Crab apples have a long bloom time, can pollinate most varieties (Dolgo, Whitney)

Apples • Many rootstocks have been developed, but

commonly trees are sold as “dwarf” or “semi-dwarf”, rarely as full sized, or seedling, tree

• The more dwarfed a tree is, the sooner it will flower and bear fruit, but don’t be tempted!

• Spacing for a dwarf tree is 8-10’, semi-dwarf 12-15’, standard 18-25’, miniature 6’ and colonnade 2’.

Pears and Asian Pears • More than 3000 varieties, but only a

handful are available: Anjou, Bartlett, Bosc, Comice, Concorde, Forelle, Magness, Seckel, Sunrise

• Space semi-dwarf pear trees 12 feet apart • Most pears and Asian pears can cross

pollinate • Asian pears bloom earlier than other pears • Shinsui, Hosui,

Korean Giant

Peaches and Nectarines

More than 2000 varieties Nectarines are really peaches, though without the fuzziness • Bloom slightly later than plums, but crops will

be lost every few years • All peaches and nectarines are self fruitful • Clingstone: mostly for canning, vs freestone • White flesh vs yellow flesh • Donut or flat peaches • Chilling requirements and cold hardiness

Apricots • Mostly self fruitful, planting 2 or more

varieties improves fruit set • Moongold, Goldcot, Harglow, SweetHeart • Will seldom bear fruit because they bloom

well before the last freeze date

Plums

• Bloom early, crops will be lost more often than peaches

• European plums: Stanley, Earliblue, Greengage (reineclaude); mirabelle

• Asian plums: Methley, Shiro, Ozark Premier

• They do not cross-pollinate • European plums are self fertile

Cherries

• Sweet and pie cherries • Over 1000 varieties • Lapins, Stella, Bing, Blackgold, Whitegold • Montmorency, North Star • Many are self fruitful, pollinate others • Sweet cherries are slightly less hardy;

bloom before pie cherries • Spacing: dwarf 12-14’, semi-dwarf 15-18’

and standard 18-25’.

Harvesting

• Apples, pears, quinces: will ripen after picking

• Peaches, plums, cherries: will soften, but not ripen after picking

• Don’t let red color fool you! • Ground color should be yellow-gold • Not all fruit on one tree ripens at once,

“outside” fruit ripens 5-10 days sooner • Fruit for pies or cooking can be used

slightly under-ripe

Storage

• Stone fruit (peaches, plums, cherries) do not store well, use within a few days

• Pome fruit (apples, pears) store well in a refrigerator, for cooking purposes they can be stored for several months in loose plastic wrap in the refrigerator or other cold place

• Fruit with insect damage will develop rot, so check on this to keep it from spreading

Pawpaws and Persimmons

So many berries

• Strawberries • Blueberries, cranberries, lingonberries • Currants, gooseberries, jostaberries • Brambles: red, yellow, black raspberries,

blackberries • Aronia, seaberry, goji berry, goumi, juneberry • Elderberry, honey berry • (Grapes)

Growing conditions

• Except blueberries, cranberries, lingonberries: regular amended garden soil, pH 6-7

• Vaccinium: pH 4.5-5.5 • Generally full sun, some afternoon shade

Brambles - Primocane - Floricane

• Floricane bearing (Nova, Titan, Encore) – New shoot, year 1, vegetative – Same shoot, year 2, flowers

• Primocane bearing (Caroline, Heritage, Kiwigold) – New shoot, year 1, flowers

• Primocane bears fruit late = fall bearing

Raspberries • Red, yellow: fall bearers will also produce

fruit on old canes on buds below those that fruited in the fall

• Black: do not make suckers, long canes need summer tipping

• Purple: cross between red and black, treat like black raspberry

• Raspberry canes that overwinter are often damaged by fluctuating spring temperatures (High tunnel)

Blackberries • Thorny, thornless (Tupi) • Upright (erect), semierect, trailing • Trailing (Marionberry) are the least cold

hardy • Erect: Cherokee, Shawnee, Navaho • Semierect: Triple Crown

– Very vigorous, benefit from winter and summer pruning

• Primocane bearing: Prime Jim, Prime Jan, Prime ARK Freedom

Blueberries • Highbush and lowbush are different species • Lowbush aka wild

– 1-2 foot, sprawling, small berries, intense flavor • Highbush

– 6-8 foot, more and larger berries • Northern and southern highbush

– Southern does not require chilling

Blueberries

• Northern: Bluecrop, Jersey, Elliot, Rubel • Southern: Cape Fear, Gulf Coast, O’Neal • Half-high: Northblue, Polaris, 2-4 foot • Rabbiteye, not cold hardy, Bonita, Climax

Cranberries • Acid, peat soil, pH 4-5 • Long growing season • Trailing vine • http://www.cranberrycreations.com/growing.html

Cranberries

• Flowers, fruit need protection from frost • Red fruit tolerates lower temperatures than

green • Vines also need protection from frost:

– Commercially: flooding – Home: row covers and mulch

• Sanding: in late winter, early spring

Lingonberries • Acidic soil, high in organic matter, shade • Northern plant, summer heat is a problem • Well drained soil • Not a lot of fertilizer • Both lingonberries and cranberries contain

a lot of benzoic acid, a natural preservative, so they keep for a long time

Lingonberry

• Vaccinium vitis-idea- Koralle • Zone 2, heat tolerant to 7 • Acid soil, shade • Fruit twice a year • Less than 1 foot high, makes a good

groundcover

Strawberries

• June bearing, short day flowering – One crop, generally in May

• Everbearing and day-neutral: blurred lines – All day-neutral are everbearing – Not all everbearing are day-neutral

• Day-neutral bred to flower continuously, but they stop when temperatures go > 90F

• Older everbearing have low yields

Strawberries

• Vigorous day-neutrals: – Seascape, Tribute, Tristar

• Everbearing: – Ozark Beauty, vigorous – Quinault, Ft. Laramie, less vigorous

• Both types produce less runners • Good for borders, hanging planters,

containers

Alpine strawberry

• Runnering or seed propagated • Sometimes used as groundcover • http://www.rareseeds.com/white-soul-

alpine-strawberry/

Elderberries

• Flowers as well as berries • Adams, Johns, Nova, York are American

varieties • Johns, Adams and York pollinate each other • Nova is self fertile, York has the largest berry • Black Beauty, Black Lace, Variegated:

European varieties • Shallow rootsystem, need mulch

Ribes: Currants, Gooseberries

• Red, white currants self fertile • Black currants partially self fertile • Used to be banned because of White

Pine Blister Rust • Better adapted to cold climates • Can tolerate SLIGHTLY acidic soil,

high organic matter • Need low fertility

Ribes

• Gooseberries: – American: Poorman, Pixwell, Captivator – European: Green Hansa, Speedwell, Invicta – European have larger fruit, but are

susceptible to powdery mildew • Black currants:

– Consort, Coronet, Crusader (need pollinator)

– Polar, Titania, Ben Sarek, Willoughby (more sun tolerant)

Ribes

• Red currants: – Red Lake, Cascade, Jonkheer van Tets,

Wilder • White currants:

– Blanka, white Imperial • Pink currant:

– Pink champagne, Rosasport • Jostaberries:

– Josta, Jostine, Jogranda

Aronia

• Aronia melanocarpa, black chokecherry • Zone 3-8 • 3-12 foot height and width, cultivar

dependent • Self fertile • Viking, Nero • Good, red fall color

Goji Berry (chinese wolfberry)

• Lycium barbarum • 10-12 foot shrub, sometimes spiny • Zones 5-9

Goumi

• Eleagnus multiflora • 6 foot shrub • Zones 4-8 • Fragrant flowers, bees • Nitrogen fixing, tolerates poor soils • Only partly self fertile, 2 varieties

Honeyberry

• Lonicera caerula • 4-5 foot shrub (2-4 foot cultivar) • Zones 3-8 • Moist, shady soil • Needs 2 varieties • Not heat tolerant

June Berry

• Amelanchier spp • Large shrub to small tree • Spring flowers • Good fall color • Native species

Seaberry • Hippophae rhamnoides • Buckthorn, sandthorn • Male and female plants • Zones 2-9 • Leikora, Russian Orange, Byantes, Frugana • Named cv’s are less thorny than seedlings • Been used by Alexander the

Great to add to horsefodder, berries and leaves

Resources • Spray guides: • http://extension.missouri.edu/p/MP651 • http://extension.missouri.edu/p/g6010 • Multiple link listings: • https://ag.purdue.edu/hla/Extension/Pages/Publications-and-

Newsletters.aspx • http://byf.unl.edu/fruit-spray-schedules • http://mtngrv.missouristate.edu/Publications/ • Grapes • http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/north-carolina-winegrape-growers-

guide/ • Beginning farming blog: • http://missouribeginningfarming.blogspot.com/