grow a tomato plant

8/12/2019 Grow a Tomato Plant

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How to Grow a Tomato PlantPreparing for Plant ing Set ting Up a Plant ing Plot Placing Transplants Watering Using

Stakes and Cages Fert ilizing Dealing with Fruit ing Protect ing Ripe Fruit Growing Tomatoes inPots

Are you learning to grow your own sweet, juicy tomatoes? Luckily for you,

tomato plants can grow almost anywhere, that is warm and a little damp. But

as with most vegetation that produce a fruit, a little "tender, loving care" or TLC

goes a long way. With adequate sunlight, water, and patience, you'll be greatly

rewarded with a six foot tall tomato plant with big (or cherry size), red, or other

heirloom colours, juicy tomatoes! Tomatoes take a long time to grow so you

must have great patience. That's all you need to do to get your tomato plant

growing. Have fun growing!

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Buy small tomato plants fr om a nearby nursery and transplant them to your

garden for the first-time grower.More experienced growers will find it easy

enough to start their own tomatoes from seed.

Begin to raise your own plants, if you wi sh, from seed, in a greenhouseor

sunny window i ndoors about a month before you intend to set them out in

the garden.

Use fluorescent lights or other light ing hanging a couple inc hes (5cm) above

the planting fl at and keep raising i t as the plants grow--in a not w ell lighted

room.Raise these plants until they are about 6 to 10 inches tall (15 to 25cm) and then

transplant them when spring weather is appropriate for your zone.

Don't pay extra to buy the larger plants; there is not much reason, unlessyou

are getting a "latish" start, to catch up.

Get good first-ti me growers varieties including Better Boy, Creole, Big Boy,

Early Girl, Brandywine, Celebrity, Lemon Boy, or j ust about any cherry or

grape tomato variety.~ Plant several varieties rather than all of one type -- this

ensures a steady harvest.

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Part 1 of 9: Preparing for Planting

Page 1 of 8How to Grow a Tomato Plant: 27 Steps - wikiHow

3/5/2014http://www.wikihow.com/Grow-a-Tomato-Plant


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Grow two plants f or each member of t he family who wi ll eat lots of tomatoes, as a

rule of thumb.If you plan on canning tomatoes or making fresh and canned salsa, use

up to four plants per person.

Plants usually cost US $4 for one 8 inch (20cm) pot, or you can buy 6 small

plants in 6 plant packs of 1 & 1/4 inch (3cm) compartmental trays.

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Choose a sunny spot to pl ace the plants to transplant them.Place tomato

plants in a site receiving full sun (7 hours or more daily). Tomatoes need lots of

warm sunshine for optimum taste.

Caveat: In hot climates when the nights get to a low temperature of about 75F

(24C), then most tomatoes "quit setting new fruit". The ones already set will

grow great. But none will set when nights are very warm through the wee hours

really near sunrise.

Don't wait more than a few days late to put them out past the recommended

dates for your climate zone, or it may be too late (if there are such early

warm/hot weather nights).

Prepare the garden bed by adding lots of well rott ed--not green--compost(5

to 8 pounds per sq uare foot/25 to 40 kilograms per square meter) to the soil.

Turn compost into the top 3 inches (6 to 8 cm). Tomatoes demand a growing medium

rich in organic matter. If you don't make your own compost, use store-bought compost or

composted manure available in the 40-pound bags. Compost or Manure is usually less

than US $5 per 40-pound bag.

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Transplant the tomato deeply.Bury about 50 to 75% of the plant (especially for

leggy plants, that became skinny in raising them before transplanting). Its okay to

bury some of its lower leaves. New roots will emerge along the buried stem, giving the

plant a developmental boost; a new transplant needs to focus on root production.

Give each plant about 1 gallon (about 4 lit res) of warm water (about 80

degrees F/ 27 degrees C) within t en minutes of transplanting to avoid

transplant shock.

Space tomato plants 18 to 36 inches (45 to 90 cm) apart; space them half the

suggested distance in warmer climates, especially if using to mato cages.

The normal distance recommended is for plants allowed to bush out hugely on the

ground, while planting closer together in cages allows the plants to shade each others

fruit, helping prevent burn and allowing a sweeter flavor.

Don't forget to leave yourself enough space to get in between the plants to

water, weed, and harvest. Those cute, little seedlings may not remain that way

for long.

Part 2 of 9: Setting Up a Planting Plo t

Part 3 of 9: Placing Transplants




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Water in the first 7 to 10 days after transplanting at about 16 ounces (about

500 ml) of warm water per plant every day.

Wait a week or two after tr ansplanting, and then place a mulch of straw, dried

grass, or pine needles to control weeds and keep the soil moist duri ng dry

weather.The mulch should be about an inch (2.5 cm) thick and surround at least a

circle 12 inches (about 30 cm) in diameter around the stem. Pine needles are especially

good for helping raise the acidity of the soil.

Caution: Do 'notkeep the soil continuously wet or "soggy". That will kill

(smother) the roots and will cause a stem disease (fungus) especially once it is

really warm/or hot weather.

Drip or soaker hose watering is better th an overhead, which c an encourage

diseases that tomatoes are particularly pron e to.

Space water out more after 10 days and ensure that plants are receiving 1 to

3 inches (2.5 cm to 7.6 cm) of rain weekly. If not, give each plant about 2 gallons

(about 7.5 litres) per plant "per week", beginning by about the end of the second week

after transplanting.

Water deeply 2 to 3 times weekly (so, water each plant with about .75 to 1

gallon each time (about 3 to 4 litres), increase water as the plants get larger and

when weather is hotter.

It's okay in hot or dry weather to water even more frequently with larger

volumes.

1Consider using a tomato cage or a tall stake to suppor t the tomato vi ne

about 14 days after transplanting.

A stake should be at least 0.5 x 2 inches (1.3 x 5cm) boards and 6 to 8 feet (1.8

to 2.4 meters) long. Pound stakes about 12 to 24 inches (30 cm to 60 cm) deep,

at least 2 inches (5 cm) away from the plant. Secure the plant to the stake using

"loosely knotted double-loops" that won't strangle the plant. Stakes can be

made of bamboo, scrap wood, electrical conduit, or iron bar.

While it is less common, "vining" type tomato plants can be tied onto a trellis or

fence, like grapes, beans, squash, and other vining plants. This can produce

especially large yields, but vining is less popular because tomato plants grow so

large and bulky (some are called "indeterminate" but are not vines, and the third

kind are "determinate" type are shrub-like plants).

A determinate tomato plant grows to a certain (determined), limited size and

then stops or at least slows its growth greatly. An indeterminate plant keeps

growing and spreading out.

A cage should be at least 48 inches (1.2 m) tall, even taller if you grow the plant

well. Tying plants is unneeded. Some tomato plants can be more than six feet

(1.8 m) tall in cages (you may need to stake and tie the cage to the stakes).

Part 4 of 9: Watering

Part 5 of 9: Using Stakes and Cages




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Cages have a tendency to bend if the plants get heavy, and sometimes collapse

in summer storms. Carefully pull leaves and secondary stems inside the cage

as the plant grows. Some cages cost less than USD $4 each.

Make your own t omato cages, if you like.Get a roll of 4 feet height (1.25 M)

"welded-wire" garden fencing 2" X 4" rectangular openings (5cm X 10cm) gardenfencing with -- or 4" square openings (10cm) -- and soon you can make it double height,

tied to more stakes, so wind will not knock them over as plants climb. Roll it into 18 inch

wide (45cm) cylinders to make your own, larger cages. Cut and bend the wire ends

around the uncut wires on the opposite end, making a circle. This type of cage needs

strong stakes well tied for support.

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Choose whether to use chemical fertil izers.Do not use lawn fertilizer. The ratio

of minerals in lawn fertilizer is for growing stems and leaves. Look for a vegetable

fertilizer which is for stimulating fruit. Tomatoes can grow very well organically, provided

the soil is well enriched with organic matter. If you do use chemical fertilizers, try using

half the recommended concentration per gallon (using package directions), but fertilize

twice as often, in order to avoid the stress caused by the feast-famine of the longer

fertilization gaps.

Over-fertilization can cause plants to grow too quickly, leaving them more

susceptible to disease and insects.

Remember that your goal in growing tomatoes is fruit, not just leaves.

Fertilizers, especially when used in excess, or the wrong kind may cause the

plant to produce more leaves and foliage than fruit.

Shake your plant p oles or cages gently once or twi ce each week for about 5

seconds once flowering begins to promote pollination of the blossoms (from

one flower to another).According to the National Gardening Association, shaking the

tomato plant increases fruit production by more evenly distributing pollen.

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Watch for fr uit t o appear 45 to 90 (about 60) days after tr ansplanting.Tomato

plants usually have small, green fruit to start. Wait until the fruit is of good size with

a bright, deep coloring: This means that the fruit is ripe and ready to pick. The texture of

the fruit can also determine when it is ready to pick. Ripeness is usually determined by a

slight softness. Be careful to only "palm the tomatoes"; do not squeeze with the finger

tips and bruise the fruit.

Also, be careful of not allowing it to become overly ripe, which results in a very

soft tomato.

Realize that birds, possums, raccoons and some dogs will take ripened

tomatoes, corn and sweet green peppers, etc.

Part 6 of 9: Fertilizing

Part 7 of 9: Dealing with Fruiting




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Pick fruit earlier to ripen indoors if you li ke:Fruit may be picked any time after it

starts changing to its ripe color and set on a sunny windowsill. This will reduce the

chances of it rotting on the vine or being eaten by a bird or squirrel.

Tomatoes do, however, taste sweeter when ripened on the vine, so you need to

balance risk of threats versus taste.

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Place a "zip-" of " snap-" seal sandwich type of bag over the nearly ripe fr uit,

very carefully, from th e bottom up onto the stem to protect ripening

tomatoes from predators.

Close the bag from both si des at the top, above the fruit, coming n ear the

stem, leaving about 1/4" (.6cm) on each side for air flow.

Cut the lower corner for drainage and air fl ow.In hot weather, carefully punch

more air holes, 1/2 inch slits (1.2cm), or smaller, will work.

Don't be disappointed by losing fruit to the animals; spend the time bagging it!

Another tip is to put red Christmas tree ornaments around the top of the tomato

cage. The birds will peck at them, be confused and leave your tomatoes alone.

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Plant tomatoes using only a pot--for those who live with l ittle ground space,

or only a porch!

Use a pot about 18-24 inches high, about 15-20 inches wide. Fill with soil,

fertilizer, etc.

Plant tomato and cover soil with plastic bl ack cloth that lets water through

small holes.Cut around the edge in a circle and tuck the edge into the soil. This

keeps weeds, cats and bugs out.

Use long wood, bamboo or plastic stakes and put 3-4 into pot around plant

and use plant tape or tied yarn around main stalk (not t o snug) in several

places to support it.

Part 8 of 9: Protecting Ripe Fruit

Part 9 of 9: Growing Tomatoes in Pots




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In order to improve flavor, promote growth, increase harvest, and

protect from insects, consider using companion plantswith your

tomatoes. Planting basil within 18 inches of your tomato plant, for

example, improves the flavor of its fruit and repels many insect pests.

Carrots increase fruit production, because the tomato plant draws

nutrients from the carrots (which may grow smaller as a result). Basil

also makes a wonderful addition to tomato-based dishes. Try adding itto your spaghetti sauce or bruschetta.

When planting in the ground, you can place a large coffee can (opened

on both ends) over the plant and push it halfway into the ground. When

watering, fill the can to the top with water, which will then descend

directly to the roots and allow the plant to flourish. Check for

"suckers" (branches that grow in the joint between the main stem and

other branches). There is a myth that suckers do not produce fruit; this

is not true, but they do use some of the plant's nutrients as they grow.

As a general rule, leaving suckers will produce more fruit, but smaller,

while pinching them off will cause the plant to grow larger fruit, but less

of it (because there will be fewer branches).

If the stem or roots of the plant are damaged -- for example your

toddler sits down on top of your 18 inch plant, snapping it near its base

-- you can often save the plant anyway, by burying much of its above-

ground stem and lower branches again, as you did to 75% of the plant

when you first placed it in the ground. The little hairs on the stem and

branches grow into roots. Since the plant is already in the ground, you

accomplish this by piling dirt up around the plant, so that it grows out of

a mound. Raised-earth growing is good for tomato plants at any time,

because they are more vulnerable to certain ailments, especially

fungus, when their hanging leaves and branches are in contact with the

earth.

If you do decide to sucker (cut back) your "indeterminate" (not shrubtype) tomato plants, consider not pinching off the whole sucker, but

letting it grow just long enough to produce some leaves, then pinching

off its tip. This will keep it from putting much effort into growing a long

branch, but lets the first few leaves increase the surface area available

to your plant for photosynthesis.

Suckers that have been pinched off can also be rooted quite easily in

moist soil to produce new tomato plants, but this practice does require

a larger sucker, and is somewhat impractical in climates with a short

growing season, since these plants will reach maturity later in the

season and have less time to yield.

If you have a fish tank, water your tomato plants with your waste fish

tank water. The natural based ammonia (Nh3) content in this water will

be absorbed directly as nitrogen that tomato plants love when in their

vegetative growth stage. Depending on what you feed your fish or what

Tips




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you use to balance the pH levels in your tank there is a fair amount of

phosphorus, potassium, calcium (lime stone, sea shells).

While you should avoid pouring too much coffee or fresh grounds into

the soil for acidity, the very caffeine which makes this risky is also

poisonous to slugs and other pests, which is why coffee plants evolved

it. Even more effective than killing these pests is to simply spray the

leaves of the plant with coffee. On the leaves, the caffeine is not

concentrated enough to harm the plant, but is still enough to repelsome pests.

Use manure tea for fertilizer. If you have access to well rotted manure,

you can make your own fertilizer. Put the manure in pantyhose or

cheese cloth. Place the "tea bag" in a 5 gallon bucket and fill the bucket

with water. Allow the "tea" to steep for a few days. Dilute the tea 1:1

with water and give your plants a drink...They'll loveit. If you're near the

ocean, you can also use sea kelp for the same effect. Kelp is a good

fertilizer for folliar feeding; spraying directly on the leaves, because it

contains trace nutrients and hormones which are more easily absorbed

through leaf pores, instead of indirectly through the roots.

Cage or stake tomatoes at planting time this will insure no damage tothe young roots if staked or caged later.

You can get started earlier in the year by creating a temporary

greenhouse. Make or buy cylindrical tomato cages made of heavy duty

fence material. Use vinyl coated welded wire with a 3"x5" mesh, 5 ft.

tall and about 1'6" in diameter. Plant the seedling and sink the cage

into the dirt 4-6". Then take some sturdy, clear plastic (available in the

garden center) and tape it securely to the cage. Moisture is retained

and the plants are kept nice and warm. Remove the plastic when the

plants emerge from the top of the cage or begin to form fruit, whichever

happens first.

Show 9 more tips

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Neversucker (prune the new growths at the base of each fruiting

branch) determinate tomato plants. This kind of plant sets its fruit all at

once, and all you will accomplish is making your crop much smaller.

Seeds of tomato are pretty small and their planting depth should not be

too deep. A deep sowing results in less or no emergence and as a

result loss of seeds may be attained.It is therefore wise to cautiously

follow the planting depth of seeds and this has to be a 0.5-1.5cm.

When transplanting, be careful not to disturb the roots. If too many

roots are cut or damaged, the plant may die. See "tips" above for how

to fix root or stem damage.

To prevent mold or fungal diseases, water plants in the morning,

preferably by using drip irrigation or water furrows. If you spray the

entire plant(s) from above, you will increase the chances of mold/fungal

Warnings




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spores infecting it/them. Exception; There is a method of fertilizing

plants called Folliar Feeding, where you spray the plant's leaves with

fertilizer containing trace elements, which will be directly absorbed.

This is good for the plant, though it should be done in the evening or

morning, when its pores are open.

Tomatoes need good weather and soil conditions to produce good fruit.

Only eat the fruit of a tomato plant, never anything else, as tomato

vines are in the highly poisonous Nightshade family.

As your plants flourish and grow, string, or cord tend to cut into the

branches. Instead, try using torn strips of cloth for your garden tying

needs, and especially when cinching up tomatoes. Cut-up strips of old

hose or stockings work great for tomato ties; they are stretchy and

gentle enough to tie vines well. One pair of 99-cent pantyhose in

1/2-inch strips will hold up rows of plants.

Tomato plants (several different varieties)

Composted manure. Available in 40-pound bags from nurseries,garden centers, or hardware stores.

Trowel, small shovel or pickaxe.

Twine or cloth for tying.

Tomato stakes (bamboo, iron rebar, wood) or tomato cages.

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