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Green, Sustainable and Circular Fashion

Milan, March, 2017

In collaboration with

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Fashionbi, in collaboration with Intesa Sanpaolo Innovation Center, has identified and analyzed five main trends in 2017 that

are going to grow bigger this and in the next years, and can revolutionize the way global of Fashion & Luxury industry

functions.

These five main trends are: Green & Circular Fashion, Fashion, Sports & Athleisure, Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion,

Customization & Personalization, Millennial Influencers & Customers. 2017 is going to be even more focused on catering to

the instant needs of the consumers in the most efficient, omni and organi way. Athleisure, as well, has conquered the

activewear segment in Fashion and is only likely to be more in demand across wider nations.

Through each report, Fashionbi further analyzes the main chosen trend, in depth, bringing a big focus on the topic relevancy

in Fashion, its market growth and contribution in the fashion economy, its implementation by the brands and the companies

and various supporting technological factors associated with the same.

The main conclusions are then discussed together between Fashion and Intesa Sanpaolo Innovation Center to finalize upon

the key insights and their possible strategic implementations by the Fashion & Luxury brands.


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INDEX

1 Five Major Trends in Fashion

2 Green, Sustainable and Circular Fashion Overview: Trends and Market

3 Manufacturing Startups in Green Fashion

4 Digital Startups in Green Fashion

5 Novelty in Production


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Five Major Global

Trends in Fashion,

2017

GREEN & CIRCULAR FASHION

FASHION, SPORTS & ATHLEISURE

OMNI-MARKETING & INSTANT FASHION

CUSTOMIZATION & PERSONALIZATION

MILLENNIAL INFLUENCERS & CUSTOMERS


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1. Green & Circular Fashion

Major Global Trends In Fashion

On 25th September 2015, the United Nations

formulated 17 Sustainable Development Goals

(SDGs) which aim to transform our world. Over the

next fifteen years, all countries should mobilize efforts

to end all forms of poverty, fight inequalities and tackle

climate change.

Fashion industry, especially the clothing

production, is the second largest polluter in the

world, behind only oil. And this is why, as a sector, it

has an even bigger responsibility in front of its

customers and the society as a whole. Today, it is

important more than ever to join the movement

towards the sustainable fashion from both sides:

production and consumption.


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Scenarios for 2025 by Forum for the Future

Slow is beautiful. A world of political collaboration and global trade where slow and sustainable is fashionable

Community couture. Where high-tech systems deliver for the speed-obsessed global shopper

Techno-chic. Where resource crisis constraints consumption in a world focused on local communities

Patchwork planet. A world of fast consumption in global cultural blocs.


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During the past few years, there appeared several organizations which have a common mission to help

organizations across the globe find ways to create a sustainable future.

Sustainable Apparel Coalition was born thanks to the joint forces between Patagonia and Walmart, and many

other brands joined later such as Esprit, Gap, H&M, JC Penney, New Balance, Nike, Nordstrom.

Forum for the Future organisation did the projects with such retailers as Marks & Spencer and Levi Strauss&Co.

Sustainable Fashion Academy amongst the clients has such brands as Asics, Asos, COS, Filippa K, & Other

Stories, Oysho and many others.

There are also organizations which are focused on the labour conditions, e.g. Fair Wear Foundation where

amongst its members we can find such fashion labels as Acne Studios, Claudia Sträter and many others.


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The global apparel market currently standing at $1.4 trillion

accounts for 2% of world’s GDP.

China remains the largest exporter of textile throughout the world with

exports worth $286.8 billion in 2015. Close after is India, Italy, Turkey

and Bangladesh. These top 5 largest exporters therefore are

supplying up to 54.4% of the total apparel trade worldwide.

Speaking of Europe, in terms of Domestic market value of fashion,

UK ($94.1 billion), followed by Germany ($83.6 billion) and France

($43.3 billion) are the most prominent countries with the most number

of employees involved in the fashion sector (350’000 people on an

average). In USA, this value is far ahead with 1.8 million people

employed in the business.

Global Fashion Industry Size

Source: Eurostat, Bureau of Labour, 2015

Womenswear

$621 billion

Menswear

$402 billion

Kidswear

$339.4 billion

Bridalwear

$57 billion


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2. Fashion, Sports and Athleisure


Thanks to the rising awareness and

consciousness toward health and well-being

globally, and increasing active sports

participation rates, the global Sportswear

market is estimated to grow at a rate of

5.3% through 2016 to 2020. North America,

followed by Asia are estimated to be the

largest market for sportswear business in the

future.

The US-based sportswear and lifestyle giant,

Nike Inc. is presently the largest company in

the market with $32.4 billion in revenues in

2016, $19.9 billion are coming from

Footwear.

47.3%

23.8%

22.6%

19.8%

14.0%

9.0%

8.6%

8.2%

7.3%

6.1%

Nike

Adidas

New

Balance

Skechers

Converse

Under

Armour

ASICS

Puma

Timberland

FILA

Most Desired Brands for Sneaker in USA

Source: Statista, 2016


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Fashion Touch is

important when it

comes to the

functional wear

An interesting fact to note here is that in the past, an

average sports retailer would sell basic t-shirts and trainers -

those were enough to keep the sport conscious public

satisfied with the functionality of them.

However, today, with the ever-so-fashion-conscious

generation of Instagram millennials and the impact of the

fashion It-girls phenomena, certainly a fashion touch is

needed. Similarly, the solely fashion clients of the past now

require some functional element in their fashion outfits to

take to streets and stay within the trend of casual dress

codes.


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Sneakers have become a big trend. It can be seen not only in the tennis courts today but also the streets, fashion shows and

even on the red carpets. While this product smoothly integrated with mass-market brand’s DNA, it was a rather unexpected

but equally appealing phenomena, when sneakers were seen in the advertising and shelves of the premium luxury brands.

Today, Chanel, Gucci or Valentino sneakers have become an epitome of high fashion and can be seen everywhere in brand

communications as well as in user desirability expressions.

There are currently three times as many sneakers on the market as there are skinny jeans.

Dior Dolce&Gabbana Chanel Gucci Valentino


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Being healthy and sporty has become the new sexy. It is

not by chance that activewear has become an integral

part of fashion brands lifestyles.

And, as the sportswear items have gradually appeared

in high fashion, the sportswear brands themselves

have moved in the direction of increasing the

fashion content in their product offer.

In order to attract the trend-aware shoppers, the

activewear brands have started collaborating with

celebrities, other brands, and the designers of the

zeitgeist, and as a result, the sportswear is not strictly

worn for fitness purposes only anymore.

$190 Billion $270 Billion$353 Billion

2009 2016 2020

Global Sports Apparel and Footwear Revenue

Source: Morgan Stanley, 2016


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Many sport brands today like Reebok and Puma are going

for supermodels and social media influencers such as

Gigi Hadid and Kylie Jenner as the ambassadors for

their brand, instead of the usual muscular athletes.

On the other hand, many cross-collaborations are

happening as well where both the brands can benefit

with the diverse audience of each other. Some of them

are: Alexander Wang x Adidas, Jason Wu x FILA, Derek

Lam x Athlete and many more.

All this has given rise to a new industry of Athleisure wear.Gigi Hadid for Reebok

Kylie Jenner for Puma


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3. Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion


Even though Omnichannel is a must in any industry today,

especially fashion - in order to offer the customers a unified

and seamless brand experience, still only 45% of retailers

cited omni-channel efforts as a top priority for their.

According to CMO Club, 55% of companies have no

cross-channel strategy in place.

Omnichannel is synonym with what we call today as “instant

fashion”. It is nothing but a phenomena where the approach

is customer-centric, making a company’s products or

services easily identifiable and readily available on any

platform and in any way the customer prefers to shop.

Source: Forrester Research, 2016


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Companies with strong omnichannel customer engagement strategies on an average retain 89% of their

customers vs. to 33% for those with weaker strategies

72% of the digital shoppers consider in-store experience as the most important channel in their purchase

Shoppers who buy from a brand both in-store and online have a 30% higher lifetime value than those who shop

using just one channel

70% of US online shoppers said they have used buy online, pickup in stores service, however, only 57% of the

global brands are able to offer this service worldwide

Apparel was just behind consumer electronics in terms of being the top omnichannel shopping product

Source: EMarketeer.com, ThinkWithGoogle.com 2016


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Customer today is active on various channels with the

same brand simultaneously (e.g. with smartphone to get

more information while feeling products in-store), hence, it is

a brand’s primary duty to make the messages a customer is

receiving instant, consistent and helpful. This is what can

ultimately lead them to the “Buy Now” button or the checkout

counter.

Whether they’re in a store, on their phone, on a home

computer or at a digital kiosk they’ll have the same

consistent experience, including easy access to product

information and the purchase process.

ChargeItSpok kiosk at Neiman Marcus store, US


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Smartphone

s now

influence

more than

28% of US

retail sales

Smartphones are highly influencing the omnichannel experience. 53%

of the shoppers confirm to Mintel that convenience and instancy are the

two major factors they consider before making a purchase. And hence,

smartphones have become more integral than ever both for the

consumers as well as the retailers in order to buy-sell the products and

services.

About 71% of the shoppers confirm the smartphone as their most

important tool in doing research about a product or a retailer.

Studies claim that the opportunity cost of not being omnichannel is a

10% drop in revenue, together with a weak customer experience.

Hence being it not just a ‘nice-to-have, but a must-have in today’s eco

system.Source: EMarketeer.com, ThinkWithGoogle.com 2016


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4. Customization & Personalization


Customer has a big say today in how he wants to be

fashioned. In fact there is a new movement called

Crowdsourced Design where the companies,

designers, and consumers all work together to

collectively curate designs that eventually make it to

the finished product stage. However, it is a very new

trend and mostly applicable to small-scale businesses for

now.

It was the mass market sportswear brands like Nike and

Converse in early 2000s who were the firsts to put the

customization service in mass level via e-commerce. The

luxury brands like Chanel and Valentino, on the other hand,

were born with the Haute Couture and bespoke tailoring

services in ateliers.

Levi’s has launched its made-to-order store in New York in 2012


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Besides the premium and luxury brands which offer the customized goods or monogramming services, more

accessible brands also entered the customization trend and provide the unique possibility to create “my”

product. Today, the new meaning of Luxury is making a customer feel connected to the brand and integrating him

with the entire experience, which is why the process of mass customization came in.

“My Coccinelle” bag by Coccinelle“My Play Furla” by Furla


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If the customizable handbag is not a

novelty, the customizable 'non-haute

couture' apparel for an accessible price is

still rare.

One of the examples of such business

model is a Tailor Italy. On the brand's online

store it is possible to create and shop

personalized pieces, that are 100% Made in

Italy.

This startup was accelerated by Intesa

Sanpaolo StartUp Initiative program and

was acquired by Miroglio Group in 2016.

Tailor Italy, www.tailoritaly.com


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According to our analysis of the customization options offered by the fashion brands, schematically,

they can be divided into these three main levels:

Monogramming

Is the most basic service, where the

customer’s initials can be added to the

products to differentiate them.

Partial Customization

Happens where customer can change

some elements of the products, mixing

and matching as they please however,

the customers are limited in their fantasy.

Full Customization

A customer can create a one-of-a-kind

product by changing all of its elements,

the final ready product is 100% ‘for the

customer and by the customer’.

Burberry monogramming service

for scarves, perfume and bags

Strap You by Fendi that allows to

personalize your bag with the strap

Ray-Ban, Shoes Of Prey, My Swear


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Customized shopping doesn't always mean the special edition of the product, it is also about the experience.

The most welcome in-store retailer communications and offerings include automatic discounts at checkout for loyalty points

or coupons (82%) and real-time promotions (57%)

Millennials are more likely than Baby Boomers to look for advice on in-store purchases. 45% like the idea of a personal

shopper who can pull items according to the customer’s style, fit or wardrobe, versus 28% of Baby Boomers.

Baby Boomers are more demanding than Millennials when it comes to receiving benefits in exchange for their data. 74%

expect to get automatic crediting for coupons and loyalty points, and 70% expect special offers for items they are interested

in, versus 58% and 61% of Millennials, respectively

Source:Accenture Personalization Survey 2015, US


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5. Millennial Influencers & Customers


Long gone is the era when just a handful of names like

Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Linda Evangelista

were ruling the catwalk. Today is the era of millennial

supermodels and they have virtually become the decision

makers for the fashion and luxury brands.

These new role models are famous and ‘wanted’ thanks

either to their celebrity relatives or to their millions of

Instagram following. Any which way, these influencers know

their audience, can relate to them and impact their

perception and purchase behaviour toward a certain brand.

Currently Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and Gigi Hadid

are the most super influential models who are the dream

and desire of every designer, every brand and every

consumer in fashion today.

Kendall & Gigi for Balmain x H&M Kendall, Bella & Gigi for Chanel

Kendall & Gigi for Marc Jacobs FS Kendall & Gigi for Victoria’s Secret


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Many of these millennials influencers are under the

spotlight since the day one of their lives thanks their

parents. Today, these young boys and girls are just

starting their professional lives but can show pride in

already becoming the faces of the top fashion brands

But, as said earlier, it is not necessary to have celebrity

parents to be at this level. The social media star

Cameron Dallas has an army of fans thanks to his

comic 6 seconds videos on Vine. Vine itself is

transforming to another business model, while

Cameron Dallas is monetizing on his popularity.

Cameron Dallas for Calvin Klein Cameron Dallas, Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis, Presley Gerber, Brandon

Thomas Lee, Rafferty Law and Luka Sabbat for Dolce&Gabbana

Hailey Baldwin for Stradivarius

Kaia Gerber

for Miu Miu

Jaden Smith for Louis Vuitton

Alain-Fabien Delon

for Dior

Lily-Rose Depp for Chanel

Zoe Kravitz for

Alexander Wang


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The millennials don’t necessarily act as the spokesperson for

the brand always, they can also be behind-the-scenes and

associated in, for example, a creative process for the brand.

However, any such association is also just enough to break the

internet.

Such was the case for Burberry when it decided to bag

Brooklyn Beckham to shoot their fragrance ad campaign

“This is Brit”. While some media and photographers were a bit

critical of this choice accusing Burberry of taking Brooklyn for

his surname rather than photography skills, the social media

fans only had appreciation for such a unique angle.

P.S. In January 2017 Burberry released its beauty campaign with Iris Law.


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GREEN & CIRCULAR FASHION LANDSCAPE


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Side Effects of Mass Consumption

Green & Circular Fashion Landscape

The industrial revolution changed the course of fashion consumption

forever; shoppers have become accustomed to cheap clothing. Apparel

and accessory design is now about fast fashion — how much one brand

can manufacture, how fast they can produce, and how cheap they can get

their supply chain. Fashion design has shifted from a focus on quality and

timeless construction to mass production, resulting in clothing that falls

apart after a few washes, exposes shoppers to carcinogens and

endocrine-disrupting hormones, pollutes our soils and waterways, and

violates human rights.

This Materials Economy has made the fashion industry a powerful

market segment that employs 1/6 of the world's population, and over

the last couple of decades has produced global billion-dollar companies

that mass manufacture apparel and accessories with no regard for the

environment and people within the supply chain.

Shoppers queue Selfridges department store in London


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Side Effects of Mass Consumption


Recent surveys demonstrates some alarming statistics about the

textile industry that shows the urgency of implementing sustainable

methods of production.

For instance, 2500 litres of water goes into the making of one T-shirt

and 8000 litres of water goes into the production of one pair of

jeans; 70 million barrels of gasoline is used per year to produce

polyester; 80 billion clothes are manufactured per year; the very

consumption of clothing represents 15 tonnes of carbon dioxide per

year per household which equals to 600 cars.

In light of such information, sustainable apparel and eco-friendly

fashion is also growing around the world. This type of fashion has a

much smaller environmental footprint as this includes minimizing

waste and eliminating the use of harmful chemicals.Source: www.waterfootprint.org

Water footprints of everyday products

10,000 litresOf water to produce a kg of cotton

250g of cotton used to make

a T-shirt uses

2500 litres of water

800g of cotton used to make

a pair of jeans uses

8000 litres of water


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Eco-fibers Market


The global eco fibers market was worth USD 39.02 Billion in 2014, and is

projected to register a CAGR of 11.46% between 2015 and 2020, and

in terms of value, it is projected to reach USD 74.65 Billion by 2020.

In 2014, Asia-Pacific was estimated to be largest market for eco fibers

that accounted for around 37% of the overall eco fiber market in terms of

value. North America and Europe, together accounted for more than 40%

of the global eco fibers market in terms of value in 2014. The eco fibers

market in these regions is expected to increase substantially by 2020, as

the acceptance for these fibers is increasing in these regions.

The U.S. and India cumulatively accounted for more than 40% of the

global eco fiber market in terms of value in 2014. The U.S. and India are

the largest markets in their respective regions, and are expected to

compete with each other to dominate the global market by 2020, with

advanced eco fiber materials for end users.

India is the biggest end user and producer of eco fiber

with about 35% share in the Asia-Pacifi region.

Source: MarketandMarkets


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The Rise Of Circular Economy


The Circular Economy can be described as an approach that is restorative and regenerative by design, and which aims to

keep products, components and materials at their highest utility and value at all times, distinguishing between technical and

biological cycles.

As envisioned by the originators of this concept, a circular economy is a continuous positive development cycle that

preserves and enhances natural capital, optimises resource yields, and minimises system risks by managing finite

stocks and renewable flows. It aims to work effectively at every scale of the product usage starting from designing, to

manufacturing, retailing, product consumption by user, re-use/repair by user or companies and finally the recycling sector

where a product can no longer be of use in its existing final state.

The circular economy is a closed loop that is restorative or regenerative by intention and design that can be

achieved by eliminating waste through the superior design of materials, products, systems, and, within this,

business models. In addition to the much more efficient use of resources and thus reduction or even elimination of the

negative consequences related to waste generation, the circular economy is also expected to create jobs. The business case

for a circular economy is compelling.

Studies show that the global economy could benefit immensely from a more circular approach, embodied by material savings,

emissions reductions and job creation. www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/circular-economy


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The Rise Of Circular Economy


Circular economy model requires the redesign of the fashion business and supply chain from linear to circular model.

DesignRaw

Materials & Textiles

ManufacturingDistribution &

SalesConsumption

Linear Value ChainCircular Value Chain

Recycled or recyclable materials or low impact

materials

Zero waste technologies and energy efficient

equipment

Distribution & Sales via product leasing/renting

and with reduced packaging

Collaborative consumption and reuse

or repair

End of life disposal via collection points

Reverse logistics: fiber reprocessing and garments upcycle

Design for recyclability and durability


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Essential Blocks Of Circular Economy


Circular Economy

Design

Reverse CyclesNew Business Models Enablers and favourable

system conditions

Companies need to build core

competencies in circular design

to facilitate product reuse,

recycling and cascading. Areas

important for economically

successful circular design

include: material selection,

standardised components,

designed-to-last products,

design for easy end-of-life

sorting, separation or reuse of

products and materials, and

design-for-manufacturing criteria.

The shift to a circular economy

requires innovative business

models that either replace

existing ones or seize new

opportunities. Companies with

significant market share and

capabilities along several

vertical steps of the linear value

chain could play a major role in

circular economy innovation

and driving circularity into the

mainstream by leveraging their

scale and vertical integration.

New and additional skills are

needed for cascades and

the final return of materials

to the soil or back into the

industrial production system.

This includes delivery chain

logistics, sorting, warehousing,

risk management, power

generation, and even

molecular biology and polymer

chemistry.

For widespread reuse of materials

and higher resource productivity to

become commonplace, market

mechanisms will have to play a

dominant role, but they will benefit

from the support of policy

makers, educational institutions

and popular opinion leaders.

Examples of these enablers

include: collaboration,

rethinking incentives, set of

international environmental rules

and so on.


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Circular Initiatives


Even if Circular Economy is relatively new concept some of the fashion

companies were already applying its principles on practice.

In January 2017 Patagonia together with Nike received the awards at

the World Economic Forum in Davos. Nike was chosen for its

commitment to “double its business with half the impact” and

Patagonia was recognized for its “Long track record of sustainable

innovation in the industry”.

Other fashion brands that can be named as the adherents of the circular

economy are Stella McCartney, Timberland and H&M, for these

companies the sustainability topic appeared already in the phase of the

product design.

At the same time there are some other brands that started the

sustainable initiatives under the pressure of Greenpeace and its Detox

campaign. Greenpeace challenges top brands to make amends by

working with their suppliers to eliminate all hazardous chemicals across

their entire supply chain, and the entire life-cycle of their products by

2020.

PUMAUNIQLO

ZARA

G-STAR

PRIMARK

VICTORIA’S SECRET

UNITED COLORS

OF BENETTON

M&S

ADIDAS

NIKE

MANGO

LEVI’S

VALENTINO

ESPRIT

BURBERRY

C&A

C&A

Participants of the Greenpeace Detox Program


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Patagonia Inc


Patagonia company is very transparent when it comes to the

Corporate Responsibility. The brand's products are produced

under safe, fair, legal and humane working conditions throughout

the supply chain, which is proved via company's reports.

Moreover, the company constantly trying to reduce its

impact on the environment. This means auditing the materials

and methods used to make Patagonia's products, taking

responsibility for the entire lifecycle of the products.

One of the latests initiatives by Patagonia is Worn Wear

program, the aim is to explain to individual consumers, that the

single best thing we can do for the planet is to keep our stuff in

use longer. The brand organized a series of Worn Wear tours

across the U.S. where it gave folks two ways to repair what they

wear. Pick a used garment from the rack and repair it yourself

(you get to keep it) or bring something you already own and

Patagonia will fix it for you.

Worn Wear tour


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Nike Inc


For the company’s future plans, the brand is targeting a 10%

reduction in the average environmental footprint of its shoes by

2020.

By 2025, Nike aims to use 100% renewable energy in its

owned and operated facilities, and has already implemented

on-site renewable energy generation at some of its largest

facilities.

86% of Nike’s contract factory base has reached a performance

rating that demonstrates their commitment to valuing workers

and improving environmental standards. By 2020, Nike’s aim is

for 100% of contract factories to reach this level.

By 2020, Nike aims to have zero waste from contracted footwear

manufacturing sent to landfill or incineration without energy

recovery.

17%OF POLYESTER

PURCHASED FOR

APPAREL WAS

RECYCLED

POLYESTER

76%OF NIKE BRAND

FOOTWEAR D

ESIGNS USED

ENVIRONMENTALLY

PREFERRED RUBBER

26%NIKE BRAND COTTON

MET DEFINITION OF

SUSTAINABLE (BCI,

ORGANIC OR

RECYCLED), WITH 19%

LICENSED TO THE BCI

STANDARD

100%OF LEATHER USED IN

NIKE BRAND

FOOTWEAR CAME

FROM LWG MEDAL-

RATED SUPPLIERS

POLYESTER

RUBBER LEATHER

COTTON


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Adidas Group


Adidas uses innovative materials through their collaboration with

Parley for the Oceans, that allows them to use more recycled

materials in the manufacturing of their products.

Sports Infinity is their project that aims to explore endless ways

to recycle materials, and such projects have great impact on their

value chain too.

The group has also increased its intake of environmentally

preferred materials (EPM) such as Better Cotton, recycled

polyester, recycled rubber or bio-based thermoplastic

polyurethane (TPU).

Company also apply advanced dyeing techniques DryDye and

NoDye that decrease the amount of water, energy and chemicals

used in the dyeing process.


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H&M Conscious


H&M set up the goal to have 100% circular business model. In 2013

company started to collect unwanted garments and home textile directly at

all H&M stores globally with the goal to use only the recycled or other

sustainably sourced materials for the production of new collections.

In 2015 the company invested in Sellpy, Swedish starup company offering

an on-demand service that helps people to sell clothes and items that are

no longer being used through an online sales service. Plus, H&M

collaborates with Worn Again to create circular supply chain for textiles.

H&M Conscious Key Performance 2015

Closing The Loop by H&M

Step one: Don’t let fashion go to waste

Step two: Ensure the longest possible use, for example throughsecond hand usage

Step three: Recycle into new products

1.3 million pieces were made with closed loop material.

That’s over 300% compared to 2014.

Company is one of the biggest users of recycled

polyester in the world.

H&M is entered into partnership with Ellen MacArthur

Foundation to further develop towards a circular business

model.

More than 12,000 tonnes of garments were collected in

H&M stores in 2015.

Organic, recycled and Better Cotton now represent

31% of the total cotton use. The goals is 100% by 2020.


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Levi Strauss & Co.


With around 24 billion pounds of clothing, shoes and textiles

finding their way into U.S. landfills each year — including

untold tons of jeans — Levi’s is working on some interesting

short- and long-term circular economy initiatives aimed at

taking a chunk out of this statistic.

Every Levi’s store accepts old clothes and shoes of any

brand, which the company collects and repurposes or

recycles with its partner, I:CO. The collected clothes are

transformed into things such as insulation for buildings,

cushioning material and new fibers for clothing.

Meanwhile, Levi's is working to establish an infrastructure that

supports closed loop products by 2020. Eventually, the

company hopes to be able to recycle old Levi’s jeans into new

ones.

RAW MATERIAL

DESIGN/ MANUFACTURE

RETAIL

CONSUMER CARE

EXTENDED LIFE

DONATE/RECYCLE REPAIR / REIMAGINE /

RESELL

● Wash less● Wash cold● Line dry

● Repair

● Transform

● Levi’s store

● Levi.com

● Virgin cotton● Recycled

cotton

Levi’s Vision For Closed Loop Products


38

Timberland


Timberland strives to be Earthkeepers in everything it does. The company constantly work to make the products responsibly,

to protect the outdoors, and to serve the communities around the globe.

For the past 9 years the company is developing the products using the recycled, organic and renewable materials. The most

noticeable partnerships are with Thread (manufacturer of sustainable fabrics) for the collection of footwear and bags

crafted from post-consumer recycled plastic bottles and with tire manufacturer and distributor Omni United (S) Pte Ltd

to recycle the wears out tires into Timberland footwear

The company works in three directions: Product, Outdoors, Community.

98%

OF FOOTWEAR

WAS PVC FREE IN

2015

1 Million

POUNDS OF

RECYCLED PET IN

FOOTWEAR IN 2015

46% Reduction

IN GREENHOUSE GAS

EMISSIONS OF ITS 50%

BASELINE SET IN 2006

8.7 Million

TREES PLANTED

WORLDWIDE SINCE

2001

78%

OF TIMBERLAND

EMPLOYEES ENGAGED

IN SERVICE IN 2015

1 000 000 Hours

SERVED BY TIMBERLAND

EMPLOYEES IN COMMUNITIES

WORLDWIDE AND WE’RE STILL

COUNTING


39

Kering Group


Since 2012, the group’s efforts have resulted in a reduction of

their environmental impact. There is also in increased

transparency in the company’s supply chain where each stage of

their production is carefully monitored and measured thanks to its

Environmental Profit & Loss (EP&L)* impact.

Kering Group also involved in circular initiatives. Stella

McCartney brand is the first luxury brand to implement

Clean by Design programme at its textile mills to reduce

suppliers environmental footprint.

In January 2017 Kering announced that the company will define

a new, sustainable luxury that operates within the “planetary

boundaries”. Kering sets 2025 Targets and key milestones to

meet over this period.

Promote sustainable design and minimize the environmental

impact of a product at every stage

Establish a Materials Innovation Lab (MIL) focused on

watches and jewellery, following the success of Kering’s MIL

for fabrics and textiles in offering access to sustainable

alternatives

Leverage current partnerships with leading universities and

continue to develop collaborations to identify sustainability

solutions

Develop new and sustainable solutions for sourcing raw

materials, including exploring biotech and promoting a circular

economy through turning recycled textiles into new clothing

Scale up an internal purchasing platform to have access to

high quality, sustainable raw materials.

Some of the Kering targets to be achieved by 2025


40

Green & Circular Fashion LandscapeLVMH Group

LIFE (LVMH Initiatives For the Environment) was launched back in 2013 by the luxury group to provide a strategic

backbone to the initiatives that they wanted to implement in order to meet their environmental challenges. During the past

months the group saw an overall 2% decrease in CO2 emissions, 5% decrease in water consumption in process

requirements, 1% decrease in water consumption in agriculture, 18% reduction in water pollution as well as 5% reduction

in waste production, all pointing to a greener future for the luxury group.

ENERGY CONSUMPTION IN 2015 BY BUSINESS GROUP795 GWh, STABLE COMPARED TO 2014 AT CONSTANT SCOPE

PACKAGING GIVEN TO CUSTOMERS

IN 2015 (IN METRIC TONNES)


41

Topshop and ASOS


On July 2015 Topshop introduced its first-ever

sustainable fashion line - “Topshop Reclaim.”

Challenging textile waste across their product areas,

whilst still creating versatile designs.

The range features 20 brand new designs made

entirely from spare material, such as jersey, cotton

and denim that already exists in Topshop’s leftover

stock.

According to Stylist, the line marks the fourth successful

collaboration between the brand and Reclaim to Wear, a

company launched by eco fashion label From

Somewhere.

Topshop Reclaim

ASOS has a ‘green room’ which houses a wide range of

ethically conscious brands. From the best of British and

hand-crafted jewellery to upcycled vintage.

Committed to reducing their impact on the planet, the

online retailer is working with eco-friendly brands

and global initiatives, to put together an edit of

clothing, accessories and beauty products that fit

within their criteria for sustainability. They also have

their own fair-trade clothing label ASOS Made In Kenya,

made in partnership with SOKO Kenya, that's made with

a lower environmental impact or beauty that's natural

and organic.

ASOS Eco Edit


42


In 2015 Adidas announced the collaboration with Parley,

an organization dedicated to reducing plastic waste in

oceans. The shoe has an 'upper' made of 95 percent

ocean plastic, the rest of the shoe is made from

largely recycled materials as well.

Previously were launched 50 pairs, which were raffled

via social media competition, while in November 2016,

7000 of pairs of shoes went on sale (retail price US

$220). At the same time Adidas announced that they will

make one million pairs of shoes using Parley Ocean

Plastic in 2017 - and their ultimate goal is to eliminate

virgin plastic from the supply chain.

Ocean plastic into Adidas new shoes model

The new collection, which is made with materials aimed

at reducing environmental impact, like organic cotton or

recycled wool. The retailer is applying the sustainable

mind-set to everything from the products to the

packaging. As part of the overall brand overhaul, Zara is

committing to using boxes from 100 percent recycled

cardboard(56 percent of all online orders are currently

delivered in these recycled boxes).

Like H&M, Zara now has a recycling program that will

make getting your old clothes into the right hands

supereasy. The retailer currently has drop-off points in

stores across Europe and will be doing the same for U.S.

stores in 2017.

Zara Sustainable Collection

Zara and Adidas


43

MANUFACTURING STARTUPS

IN GREEN FASHION


44

Evrnu

Manufacturing Startups in Green Fashion

Evrnu is an innovative new technology that recycles cotton

garment waste, to create a premium, renewable fiber. More

than 12 million tons of garment waste is disposed of every year

in the U.S. alone.

Evrnu emerged from a new way of thinking about the apparel

and textile industry, by textile specialists who love fashion. The

Evrnu team is currently running an Indiegogo campaign to

bring the technology to a larger scale.

Recycling Cotton

www.evrnu.com


45

Crailar


CRAiLAR is a flax fiber that drastically reduces chemical and

water usage. It was named a 100% BioPreferred product by the

USDA in April 2012.

This raw fiber is rough and tough and definitely not something you

would want to wear or use. The fiber is then transformed via our

proprietary CRAiLAR process into a soft and fluffy fiber made up of

thousands of individualized bast fibers that — while they resemble

cotton in feel and appearance — outperform cotton on almost every

level. In fabric form, it looks and feels almost identical to cotton.

Identical to Cotton

www.crailar-fti.com


46

Recyclon


“Recyclon” is a recycled nylon from Unifi’s Repreve that uses

pre-consumer and post-industrial nylon waste. While the

makeup of the blend is not 100% recycled, the innovation has been

widely celebrated by those who have been wanting a recycled

nylon option since recycled polyester became available years ago.

Their proprietary process that allows them to transform

(polyethylene terephthalate) PET bottle flakes into REPREVE fiber,

which is then used in thousands of different fabrics and products

available globally.

Recycle Nylon

www.unifi.com


47

Eco Circle Plant Fiber


Eco Circle Plantfiber is a plant-based PET (polyester). The

new fiber contains 30% sugarcane, which replaces 30% of

the oil needed for traditional polyester.

Teijin, the company behind the fiber, said it will have a closed-

loop recycling system at the end of the fabric’s life. Nissan is

one of the first companies to use the fabric for the car

upholstery in the 2014 Nissan Leaf electric car.

Plant Based Polyester

www2.teijin-frontier.com/english


48

RespectLife


Born in 2015 from the idea of finding a new tissue to create sheets,

uniform and dress from the fabric free from bacterial

contamination, easily washable, resistant, breathable, soft and

ecological and which could respond to protect against hazards.

Polypropylene Super-textile is stain-resistant, hypoallergenic,

resistant to moulds and moths and 100% recyclable.

Target markets for re-life are: hotel & Restaurants, SPA, activewear

and fashion brands.

Polypropylene Super-textile

www.respectlife.it


49

Organic fabrics


German microbiology-student-turned-designer Anke Domaske uses

milk to make an "Eco Milk Fiber" called QMilk. Milk was already

processed into textiles in the 1930s. QMilk owns this unique

technology for producing textile fibers from the milk protein

casein which is applied in clothing, home textile, technical

applications, medical technology and automotive, which uses less

harmful chemicals unlike the technology back in 30s.

Other examples would include, a high-tech sports clothing company

Virus uses recycled coffee beans for their Stay Warm line of cold-

weather performance apparel. And Suzanne Lee, fashion designer,

has been making fabric and vegetable leather out of the

fermented tea, kombucha.

Fabrci out of milk, tea, and coffee beans

en.qmilk.eu


50

Orange Fiber


Orange Fiber is a startup aiming at the creation of sustainable

textiles from citrus juice byproducts. The goal is to create a

sustainable fabric that responds to the need of the fashion brand

innovation. To do that, the company wants to reuse more than

700,000 tons of product that the Italian citrus processing

industry produces annually.

In February 2016 Orange Fiber became one of the five winners of

Global Change Award, the innovation challenge initiated by the

non-profit H&M Foundation.

Yarns and fabrics from citrus fruits

www.orangefiber.it


51

S.Cafe


S.Cafe is a new fiber coming out of Taiwan that uses recycled

coffee grinds. Big names like North Face, Puma and Timberland

are already using it, while coffee sellers like Starbucks and 7-11

are said to be some of the suppliers.

Apparently coffee grinds have natural odor-masking properties

without making the entire garment smell like your morning brew. It’s

said that coffee grinds require less energy in the fiber-making

process, making it an “earth-friendly” alternative to traditional

fabrics.

Recycled Coffee Grinds

www.scafefabrics.com/en-global


52

Looptworks


Looptworks repurposes abandoned materials into "meaningful, long-

lasting and limited edition products." By reusing the world’s pre-consumer

excess, the Portland-based company says it aims to rid the world of waste

while inspiring a generation to reduce its impact on the planet. The line includes

jackets, hoodies, skirts, shirts and graphic T-shirts for both men and women.

Having partnered with Southwest Airlines in 2014 to upcycle its seat leather into

soccer balls, bags and other products, Looptworks continued onward last year

with Alaska Airlines, turning the airline’s used seats into handbags and purses.

Looptworks collects, sorts and cleans the seat materials, designs and develops

the upcycled products, produces, markets and sells them.

Premium Upcycled Goods

www.looptworks.com


53

WearEver


WearEver DA Inside collection offer sustainable representation through

stylish corporate suits made from 100% recyclable textile developed

by textile innovation company Dutch Awearness. The brand

WearEver DA Inside originates from a cooperation between Dutch

Awearness and WearEver, a special subsidiary company of Dutch

Awearness.

Dutch Awearness produces circular work clothes in partnership with

Tricorp Workwear, Heigo, Latino Group and Jasmine Mode. Together,

they make high visibility clothing, protective clothing (PPE) and regular

workwear.

Premium Circular Clothing

wearever.nl


54

Recycled Synthetics


Recycled synthetics, made with everything from plastic bags to

beer bottles continue to make a splash. In much the same way that

other materials and bamboo are transformed into thread, the

upcycled synthetics are broken down into a fine particulate, melted,

and extruded into fiber.

The I Am Not A Virgin jeans pictured here use a mix of 25 percent

bottle fiber and 75 percent cotton, the resulting material is soft

to the hand, yet is durable and performs as denim should.

Plastic bags and beer bottles finding new life

www.iamnotavirgin.com


55

ZTUDIO 8B


With innovative modular design, customers can

easily change the look, the shape and carriage of

the bag. The best vegan materials of highest

quality are used in the making of the bag that

combines both design and sustainability.

The bags are Made in Italy, where manufacturers

use the traditional craftsmanship passed down

from generations.

SUSTAINABLE HANBAGS, CIRCULAR DESIGN

www.ztudio8b.de

VEGAN

MATERIALS

MODULAR

DESIGN


56

FILE BAG


The File bag is about having a bag with an

unmistakable luxury that fits to every outfit,

occasion and even your ever changing mood.

Everything in one bag, with the possibility to

change it whenever you want. It’s about a

handmade bag produced in Italy, that respects the

environment because it is made of regenerated

leather.

SUSTAINABLE LEATHER HANBAGS

HANDMADE

REGENERATED

LEATHER

www.kickstarter.com


57

Manufacturing Startups in Green FashionSTAFFORHUMANS

Designed in Australia, handmade [by adults] in Vietnam, their

bags and wallets have emerged from a desire to have groovy

bags that go with our clothes and our lifestyles.

Frustrated with a lack of genuine leather bags that would last,

and were free from toxins and unethical practices, they make it

without exploiting the actual people who make them, or harming

their health. Each item is made from buttery, vegetable-tanned

leather: tough, long-lasting and sensuous to touch, with soft

suedette lining.

SUSTAINABLE LEATHER HANBAGS

TOXIN-FREE

BUTTERY

VEGETABLE-

TANNED

LEATHER

www.stufforhumans.com.au


58

HOLYFANCY


Every backpack produced uses at least 15 plastic bottles +

900g of cotton scraps from the environment. The production

of their fabrics is also free from water and dye - besides

being zero carbon emission.

In addition of being innovative in its use and its materials,

HOLYFANCY DAILYPACK also finances part of a Social

Program in Brazil as all the pouches are handmade by a

community in Rio de Janeiro where different jobs/activities

are created to help people in need.

SUSTAINABLE BACKPACK

100%

SUSTAINABLE

FABRIC

HELP PEOPLE IN

NEED

www.kickstarter.com


59

GINKGO


Ginkgo was found in 2012 with an idea to make a

sustainable umbrella.

Ginkgo umbrella is made entirely in a single material.

All the parts, from the canopy’s fabric to the pole, are

made from polypropylene. All the fastening elements,

such as screws, pivots and especially glue, have been

replaced by integrated snap-fit elements. Thanks to

these solutions, when Ginkgo finally reaches the end of

its useful life you can just toss it in the recycle bin. No

need to disassemble the components.

SUSTAINABLE UMBRELLA, CIRCULAR DESIGN

100%

RECYCLABLE

CUSTOMIZABLE

ginkgoumbrella.com


60

Manufacturing Startups in Green FashionRE-BELLO

RE-BELLO is a fashion label form men and women, based

in Bolzano, Italy. The company wants to put into practice

the idea of a truly sustainable clothing label where design,

sustainability, and transparency go hand in hand.

RE-BELLO constantly researches materials that are

produced ecologically and ethically but are at the same

time innovative, comfortable and stylish to minimize that

impact by choosing sustainable fibers of high quality.

SUSTAINABLE APPAREL

SUSTAINABLE

FIBERS

TRANSPARENCY

IN PRODUCTION

www.re-bello.com


61

NEOGREEN


NEOGREEN is a 100% Eco conscious sustainable start-up brand.

It makes one size adaptable from the size 36 to the 42 with belts,

backs or elastic straps. The supply of fabrics is 100% second-

hand.

Because every detail is important, every fabric is clean with

ecological soap; every waste is sorted and put in the recycling

bins; very local delivery is made by bike or on foot; when paper is

used, each time it is an upcycled paper.

The products are Made in France, through women in Social

Integration Workshops, who are not financially well to do.

SUSTAINABLE APPAREL

SECOND-HAND

FABRICS

SOCIAL

INTEGRATED

WORKSHOPS

www.kickstarter.com


62

Manufacturing Startups in Green FashionANKURA

Ankura designs sustainable clothing, by combining the

luxury and quality of Peruvian fibers with a modern design.

All of their collections are made responsibly through the

entire production process. The company carefully chooses

each one of their materials to ensure low environmental

impact. Being an ethical brand is a priority.

They source local materials, use natural and organic fibers,

partner with local workshops, and empower artisan

communities.

SUSTAINABLE APPAREL

LOW

ENVIRONMENTAL

IMPACT

EMPOWER

ARTISANS

www.ankurabrand.com


63

Manufacturing Startups in Green FashioniLUUT

iluut designs and makes minimal, contemporary women's

clothes. The collection is made in Europe and you'll be

informed where every step of the production is made

because full transparency is super important for iluut's team.

To avoid waste, the leftover fabrics after cutting the garments

will be used for making carpets by Maroccoan women. iluut

wants to support future innovations; 5% of each product's

margin go for building a PoP school in developing countries.

SUSTAINABLE APPAREL

100%

TRANSPARENCY

IN PRODUCTION

NO LEFTOVER

FABRICS

iluut.com


64

THE RENEWAL WORKSHOP


Partnering with the world’s best-loved apparel brands and retailers

to renew their “unsellable” returns and excess inventory, The

Renewal Workshop, gives each garment new life as Renewed

Apparel through the proprietary processes. The Renewed Apparel

is then either sold back to the brand, to be sold through their sales

channels, or sold through their own retailer network.

This also reduces of waste. Especially for goods that have been

produced and are ready for sale except they need a little mend.

Plus any product that can’t be renewed, The Renewal Workshop

responsibly manages the upcycling, downcycling, or recycling of it

in order to optimize the resources already invested in it.

SUSTAINABLE COMPANY

RENEWED

APPAREL

REDUCE

WASTE

therenewalworkshop.com


65

FABSCRAP


Launched in NYC, FABSCRAP offers convenient recycling

and reuse of fabric scraps, cuttings, samples, headers,

mutilated items, and unused bolts from fashion

businesses.

This start-up reduces waste. Either as a one-time pickup

or regular service, FABSCRAP ensures pre-consumer

material is handled responsibly and provides waste

diversion metrics for sustainability reports.

SUSTAINABLE COMPANY

RECYCLING AND

REUSE OF

FABRICS

REDUCE

WASTE

fabscrap.org


66

Manufacturing Startups in Green FashionSOLWA

DryWa is a revolutionary thermal stand-alone system to

dry sewage sludge, achieving a 93% of weight reduction in

only 15 m2 surface. The product was developed by the

startup Solwa, which was acquired by Santex Rimar Group

in 2015.

DryWa dries and incinerates sewage sludge, where the

input is the wet sludge (around 25% DM) and the outputs

are ashes and emissions into the atmosphere (steam and

gasses).

SUSTAINABLE COMPANY

www.santexrimar.com/brands/solwa/machinery/drywa


67

Manufacturing Startups in Green FashionIXOOST

IXOOST is combining mechanics and sound, the product

is designed in Modena, Italy, a city famous for the

handmade construction of some of the world’s most

beautiful cars.

IXOOST is a stereo system build from the manifolds, all

the stations can be customized. By integrating Bluetooth®

4.0 technology with the traditional AUX connection, the

product enables you to control music stored on your

smartphone, tablet, or computer.

SUSTAINABLE COMPANY

www.ixoost.it


68

ECO BEAUTY BRANDS


69

MAKEUP

ECO BEAUTY BRANDS

w3llpeople.com

Well People brings together the energy,

experience and artistry of makeup artist

Shirley Pinkson, cosmetic dermatologist

Renee Snyder M.D., and tree-hugger James

Walker to create a wellness-driven,

chemical-free makeup brand that delivers

exceptional quality in a sustainable,

conscientious and particularly stylish

package.

WELL PEOPLE

iliabeauty.com

ILIA is creating the purest products

possible. The ethical-sustainable

approach embodied in each piece is

filled with certified organic bio-active

botanicals that nourish and rejuvenate

the skin. All cream lip products are

housed in a recycled aluminum case.

Each product is filled with up to 85%

bioactive organic ingredients

ILIA


70

MAKEUP

ECO BEAUTY BRANDS

ecobrow.com

Creating Eco Brow Mineral Wax in 2013,

Marco Ochoa provided a much-needed

"responsible beauty" alternative to the other

eyebrow-focused brands.

The wax is mineral-based and paraben-free,

and has been receiving glowing reviews

from the fashion and beauty community

ever since.

ECO BROW

www.rmsbeauty.com

Committed to helping women reclaim their

right to healthy beauty the RMS cosmetic is

completely free of toxins and chemicals,

and uses only organic, live ingredients,

selected to nourish and heal.

The founder of the brand, Rosemary Swift

is outspoken about the dangers of toxins in

cosmetics.

RMS BEAUTY


71

SKIN CARE

ECO BEAUTY BRANDS

oneloveorganics.com

Certified cruelty-free and awarded a gold

seal of approval from Green Business

America, One Love Organic products are

produced in micro batches in one of only 12

eco-certified manufacturing facilities in the

USA. Brand uses only the finest and most

effective ingredients on the market.

ONE LOVE ORGANICS

www.juicebeauty.com

Juice Beauty combined forces with

Gwyneth Paltrow and her wellness site

Goop. Juice Beauty has developed a vast

line of skincare and beauty products, using

an antioxidant and vitamin-rich organic

botanical juice base combined with

powerful skincare ingredients.

JUICE BEAUTY


72

SKIN CARE

ECO BEAUTY BRANDS

provinceapothecary.com

The products under the Province

Apothecary are free from toxins, and are

handcrafted from only the highest quality,

ethically and sustainably sourced, certified

organic, bio-dynaminc and wildcrafted

ingredients, including Nova Scotian

seaweed, Quebecois maple syrup, and

Albertan beeswax.

PROVINCE APOTHECARY

aromacentric.com

Products are made with organic or

wildcrafted essential oils and plant-based

materials whenever possible. All products

are free of Parabens, Dea, Pthalates,

synthetic dyes and synthetic fragrances.

Many of the products are oil based and

therefore botanical preservatives are

acceptable to use.

AROMACENTRIC


73

SKIN CARE

ECO BEAUTY BRANDS

www.hekatecosmetics.com

Hekatè designed an online platform where

everyone could create with Natural origin

ingredients his own professional cream.

Through a guided path you’ll indicate your

skin characteristics and expected effects. In

a few minutes, you will create your own

beauty care.

Hekatè

www.sudssoapco.com

Suds & Co. allows you to handpick all the

ingredients that go into your soap. The

company only uses premium, all-natural,

vegan, and cruelty-free ingredients.

Sud’s&Co. is explaining the benefit of each

ingredient—letting you craft a product to

your specific needs.

SUD’S & CO.


74

DIGITAL STARTUPS IN GREEN FASHION


75

DREXCODE

Digital Startups in Green Fashion

Drexcode is a web online boutique that aims to help women to

dress on special occasions by giving the possibility to rent

clothes and accessories from the latest collections for 4 or 8

days from well known brands (e.g. Alberta Ferretti, Rochas, Vera

Wang, Vionnet).

Company also provide laundry service ensures perfect cleaning

and ironing apparel. There are also several options for purchasing

the clothes from Drexcode, twice a year company organizes a

sale of end of season,

Choose

the dress

Select the

date

Wear the

dressReturn

drexcode.com

CLOTHING RENTAL


76

RENTEZ-VOUS


Rentez-Vous.com is a Peer-to-Peer and Designers fashion

rental marketplace that allows women to rent clothes and

accessories to one another and rent designers' creations for a

fraction of the price.

In contrast to Drexcode, the Rentez-Vous works with emerging

designers all over the world.

Anyone can list and rent the product via the platform. Rentez-

Vous provides free dry cleaning and secure deposit and

payment options.

CLOTHING RENTAL

rentez-vous.com

Search throught

hundreds of items

from the best

designers

Rent a piece and

get it delivered at

your place

Get the piece

picked up and we

take care of the dry

cleaning

RETURNENJOYBROWSE


77

QUEEN OF RAW


A new digital platform for designers to connect with

suppliers to source raw materials. Bypassing traditionally

long lead times, large minimum orders, and shipping costs that

often exceed the value of the raw materials, Queen of Raw

features materials with short lead times, local inventory, and

low minimums.

It reduces the need for further manufacturing and reduces

waste. Suppliers to the industry are able to offer unsold

inventory and dead stock (rolls of fabric that are no longer in

production) to a previously unreached audience of designers

big and small.

SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION

www.queenofraw.com


78

CUYANA


Startup fashion brand Cuyana, based in San Francisco, launched what it

calls a Lean Closet Movement to put shoppers’ focus on buying quality

that lasts, rather than chase the latest trend and fuel dangerous

manufacturing practices. The movement kicked off with a 4-week series of

blog posts who shared tips on building a versatile, functional wardrobe.

The 4 collections of apparel and accessories are eco-friendly and those

who click “lean shipping” during checkout, will receive a reusable bag to

fill with items that can be donated to non-profit partners like Dress for

Success or the Salvation Army. The movement is still in its early stages –

just 10 percent of Cuyana Shoppers currently choose the option – but

shoppers receive credits for future Cuyana purchases as an incentive.

SUSTAINABLE SHOPPING

www.cuyana.com


79

ELECTROLOOM


Electroloom creates 3D seamless fabrics, opening the

door for on-site manufacturing of finished clothes. The future

vision of Electroloom is for it to serve as a distributed

manufacturing technology for a variety of textile verticals—

including clothing and beyond.

This start-up reduces the supply-chain required for creating

a fabric good. Perfect for customization and small batch

production.

3D PRINTING


80

MINK


Mink - a portable 3D makeup printer - takes the idea of

DIY makeup to a whole new level. It takes an image and

instantly transforms it into a wearable color cosmetic, so any

phone, camera, or laptop essentially becomes an endless

beauty aisle.

The app extracts all of the colors of the image selected for

you to chose a color and press print. The Mink printer then

dyes a powder the selected color. Then remove the powder,

and mix it into the desired medium — eyeshadow, lipstick,

or gloss.

3D PRINTING


81

NOVELTY IN PRODUCTION


82

Dying Techniques

Novelty in Production

Developed in California by Colorep, AirDye

works with proprietary dyes that are heat-

transferred from paper to fabric in a one-

step process. This can save between seven

and 75 gallons of water in the dying of a

pound of fabric, save energy, and produces

no harmful by-products. The technology

uses 85 percent less energy than traditional

dying methods.

AirDye – Dying With Air Hand Dying

In hand dyeing, fabrics are immersed in hot

or cold dyes in a dye bath. The dye bath is

agitated so the dye reaches all areas. When

the desired colour is achieved the fabric is

removed and rinsed to remove excess dye.

Then it is fixed with a mordant or a fixing

agent such as salt. This process also

drastically reduces the amount of water

used.


83

Reducing Water Usage


With digital printing, prints are directly

applied to fabrics with printers, reducing

water usage by 95 percent, energy

reduction of 75 percent, and minimizing

textile waste.

This technique has been used by designers

like Mary Katrantzou, Alexander McQueen

and Basso & Brooke.

Digital Print Stone Washing

Levi’s WaterLess products are a water-

conserving collection that allows the

company to use an average of 28 percent

less, and at times as much as 96 percent

less water to finish their jeans.

Instead of water, the company uses stones

in stone washing machines to achieve the

same results in their “washed” effect.


84

Smart Tailoring


Smart Tailoring was created by Indian designer Siddhartha Upadhyaya as

a way to increase fabric efficiency (by 15 percent) and reduce lead-time

(by 50 percent) to manufacture high-end garments.

By using a computer attached to a loom, data such as color, pattern and

size related to the garment is entered, and the loom cranks out the exact

pieces, which then just need to be constructed. Weaving, fabric cutting,

and patterning happen all at once. Brilliant. Not only does DPOL minimize

immense waste of fabric, it also helps in saving energy and water by 70 to

80 percent.

Direct Panel on Loom (DPOL) Technology

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