great taste magazine 2012 mar/apr issue
DESCRIPTION
Orange County Restaurants are some of the best in California and the country. Check out the restaurants and the professionals who make them great. We share resources, recipes, beautiful photos and many tasty tidbits.TRANSCRIPT
Presorted StandardU.S. Postage
PAIDPermit No. 400Laguna Beach CA
BRINING TIPS 10 PICKLING FOR FUN & FLAVOR 14 STELLAR TEAM MEMBERS 20
MARCH • APRIL 2012
F ROM TH E ED I TOR
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 3
T ER I’STAKE
You’ve probably noticed howpopular pickling has becomeor maybe you have triedpreserving yourself. Just aboutanything can be pickled andwe’ve got some fun ideas on
what and how from some localaficionados. Pickling is one the oldestforms of food preservation but now cooksare using preserves to add acid, flavor andtexture. An inexpensive way to add yourown personality to any dish, pickling iseasy and a great way to use produce at itspeak of flavor and lowest seasonal cost.
In this issue we also cover a little aboutbrining. The technique improves theflavor, texture and moisture content ofleaner cuts of meat. We included tips onwhat ingredients to add to brine and howlong to keep them submerged.
You’ll enjoy reading our new column onunsung hospitality heroes. We’re featuringthe bright lights in the hospitality worldwho are not the Manager, Owner orExecutive Chef but deserves every bit asmuch credit.
Next issue we’re concentrated on BBQand all those beautiful ingredients thatbloom with the additional flavorsfrom smoke and time. You areinvited to share your recipesand techniques. Just [email protected]!
On T he Cove r
C O N T E N T Con t en t
MORE THAN C
HEFS
Out of the kitchen
and into the writer’s
chair, these talented
chefs share their
expertise with us as
our Culinary Advisors.
F E ATURES14 PICKLE ME PINK, PURPLE
OR GREEN
The tangy texture of pickled vegetables
add a bold accent to food
17 CHEF MANNY GONZALES
I N S I D E4 THE BEET
Find out who’s hot and new now while
acknowledging all the greatness and
philanthropy in this generous industry
5 BOOKS
Heston Blumenthal at home
THE B I Z10 TRENDS
Midnight Lush cocktail recipe with
Peruvian pisco
20 FRONT OF THE HOUSE
Stellar Team Member Rigo Miranda
22 OPERATIONS
STACKED iPads let guests customize
their orders
23 BEVERAGES
Myths of wine storage and preservation
DEPARTMENTS4 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH
6 BAKING RACK
7 SWEET SPOT
7 SPICE RACK
9 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH
9 HOW GREEN ARE YOU
11 FOOD TRUCK FEVER
12 SUR LE MENU
Corporate Executive Chef
Lazy Dog Cafe
GABRIEL CALIENDO
Executive Chef
Adam Navidi Catering &
Future Foods Farms
ADAM NAVIDI
Executive Chef
KATIE AVERILL
Executive Chef
JASON STEIN
}Pan Seared Skuna Bay Salmon Served with fresh English peas, wild mushrooms, corn,Spanish chorizo & sautéed pea greens topped with saffron corn foam by Chef MannyGonzales of TAPS Fish House & Brewery in Brea. See more Skuna Bay Salmon and ChefManny’s recipe on page 13. Photo by Michael Rutt.
P R O D U C E
PICKOF THE MONTH
AEROSPACE ENGINEER BILL LEWIS
DECIDED HE NEEDED A NEW CAREER
DIRECTION MORE THAN 20 YEARS AGO.
While helping a friend board horses at a
stable in Tujunga Canyon, he encountered
bees that reminded him of a childhood Boy
Scout badge he earned. Now, Bill’s Bees,
nestled in the Angeles National Forest, is
home to 400 bee colonies that produce honey
from pesticide-free buckwheat and black
button sage wildflowers. Keeping true to
making the best product possible, Bill moves
his bees to different orchards each season
depending on what’s blooming. In mid-winter,
the bees swarm around almond orchards and
early spring finds Bill and his bees among
California’s citrus trees. Bill’s Bees also
makes beeswax soaps, candles, lip balms,
and lotions. Try this winner of Los Angeles
Magazine’s Best of LA “Best Local Honey” to
liven up your next coffee cake, tea or salad
dressing. Try nature’s sweetener: honey.
The produce hunter has developed close
relationships with small, local family farmers
committed to sustainable agriculture,
personable production, and propagation and
promotion of produce with exceptional flavor.
www.theproducehunter.com
Bill’s BeesWildflowerHoney
I N S I D E
4 www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012
HIPsters Unite – Monday March20 at 3pm we’ll be having a HIPtasting at Eva’s CaribbeanKitchen to show our support andhelp kick start her re-growthafter the Feb 18 fire at the
restaurant. The early morning fire, causedby a faulty light fixture caused damage to
the storage areas to the South Lagunarestaurant. As we all know, insurance is agreat thing but you never quite recoup whatyou lost during the catastrophe. We hopeyou can make it. We’ll be emailing moreinfo soon.
Email [email protected] for reservationsand/or donations.
T H E B E E T
T H E B E E T
T H E B E E T
T H E B E E T
I N S I D E
B O O K S BOOKS
This eclectic book of tips and recipes by Heston Blumenthal offers helpful advice on a multitude of differentcuisines. Chef Blumenthal is the owner of The Fat Duck, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the UK. Inhis book, he not only reveals his delicious recipes, but explains in detail how they will work. Chapters onsoups, salads, pasta, sides and desserts are liberally sprinkled with color photos.
A unique part of the book contains Blumenthal’s thoughts on brining. Blumenthal devotes two separatesections to the art of low-level brining, and explains the advantages, as well as the challenges, of this
timeless process. He describes the steps necessary for brining foods as large and tough as porkbelly, to foods assmall and delicate as fish. He also explains how adding the right amount of salt to a brine actually moistens themeat, and how to compensate for time with concentration.
Blumenthal’s instructions are precise and easy to follow, and his chapters are prefaced with an explanation ofeach approach. To order this book and many other great titles, please visit www.great-taste.net/books.
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 5
SINCE 2000
PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETORTeri Williams
EDITORIALChief Editor
Teri Williams
Contributors
Chef Katie Averill
Joel Black
Chef Gabriel Caliendo
Suzanna Hoang
Aaron Kennedy
Chris Kern
Linda Mensinga
Sarah Ruiz
ARTArt Direction/Design
Lisa Brink
PHOTOPhotography Editor
Michael Rutt
ADVERTISINGAdvertising Sales
714-960-0534
21851 Newland St #217
Huntington Beach, CA 92646
714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869
Southern California’s Premier Food, Beer, Wine & Entertainment Festival
JUNE 16 & 17Now Accepting Applications for Chefs, Restaurants and Wineries.
WWW.TASTEOFOC.COM 855-2-YUMMYOC (855-298-6696) ext. 769
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I N S I D E
6 www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012
AS A LOVER OF ALL THINGS COCONUT (top three flavors), I have always
eaten it with guilt attached… the fat, the calories, the clogging! Coconut
flesh and coconut milk are 80% or more fat, so while loving my coconut
curry sauces, coconut smoothies, and soups, it was definitely my “bad” for
the day. When making my sorbets, I would always have to say “my sorbets
are a non-fat and healthy dessert choice except, of course, for the coconut”.
Suddenly, coconut water is popping up everywhere in grocery stores. It is
the new agave, the new cake pop. I was surprised to see it being linked with
“fitness” and “energy” drinks. My fattening coconut is good for me? Upon
immediate investigation, I found out that coconut water is virtually fat free
and has two times the potassium of bananas. Many other beneficial claims
are being made as well, but I’ll stick with those two facts.
So I bought a few of those drinks as well as straight coconut water
expecting them to be, well, watery, and found that they were delicious. I put
them to work in my favorite Thai recipes by making my own coconut milk
combining the drinks with skim milk and had the same awesome results,
without the fat and calories. This pastry chef, contrary to popular belief,
likes to eat healthy in real life.
I challenge you health conscious chefs out there to create your coconut
dishes with coconut water and make sure you share your great recipes with
me! Skinny Pina Colada anyone?
Contact Chef Katie Averill at [email protected].
HOLY COCONUTS!
by Chef Katie Averill
T H E BAK ING
RACK
by Chef Gabriel Caliendo
The Spice Rack
THE HOLIDAYS HAVE FINALLY RELEASED
THEIR GRIP ON BOTH MY PERSONAL AND
PROFESSIONAL RESPONSIBILITIES: I’ve
survived another pressure-filled season. One of
my favorite things to do in January and
February is to do some pickling. What am I
pickling these days? Italian cherry peppers for
one. Some I do for my friends and family, and
some I do for the Lazy Dog.
I usually pickle what I can’t finish eating
from the garden. Due to the warm and mild
weather this year, I recently had tons of Italian
cherry peppers that grew well into the fall and
winter. What to do with pecks of peppers? You
know how that story goes. I clean the peppers
with fresh water, and then make a pickling
solution of white wine vinegar, bay leaf, black
peppercorn, water, mustard seeds, allspice,
salt, sugar and red chile flakes. After a quick
boil to incorporate the flavors I pour the
pickling solution into sanitized mason jars filled
with the peppers, seal the lid and allow them to
sit at room temperature (60 degrees in winter)
for a week. Crack open the jar and go to town!
At the Lazy Dog, I develop our bar drink recipes
in addition to the food. A recent revamp of our
brunch menu has led me down the path to a
variety of Bloody Marys. I made several different
flavors and combinations, including a Kimchi
Mary, a Bacon-Corn Nut Mary, and a California
Mary. I serve pickled lotus root with the Kimchi
Bloody Mary. The bacon-corn nut Mary is served
with some pickled jumbo pepperoncini and the
California Mary with some quail eggs that I
pickle (Quail is California’s state bird.) I use
beets in some of my pickling marinades to
create a bright purple color that looks great and
adds a depth of sweetness. Additionally, I get
pickled beets out of the process. Chef Gabriel
Caliendo is the Vice President of Food &
Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Café.
PETER PIPERPICKED…
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 7
I N S I D E
by Suzanna HoangSWEE T S PO T
Sensitive Sweets: Yummy Treats for EveryoneWHEN HER YOUNG SON BRADLEY WAS
DIAGNOSED WITH SEVERE FOOD ALLERGIES as
an infant, owner and head baker Melanie Hohman of
Sensitive Sweets in Fountain Valley embarked on a
mission to find ways to keep him healthy. As a
trained civil engineer, she already had a knack for
hard work and finding creative strategies for
solutions. Her initial passion and motivation for her
new bakery came when her son’s first birthday was
on the horizon and she couldn’t find a cake that
would suit Bradley’s limited diet. Because, in
Hohman’s opinion, any child’s birthday party
shouldn’t be without the most important
centerpiece: the birthday cake.
Sensitive Sweets, opened 3 years ago, and is a
dedicated gluten-free, nut-free, dairy-free, and egg-
free bakery. A natural-born leader, Melanie, 37,
juggles roles of motherhood, baker, and business
owner and revels in the rewarding challenges of her
life. “Being a business owner is tough,” she says.
“However, I have always worked hard, and now I
have a more fulfilling job. Refining recipes has been
a rewarding experience.”
Sensitive Sweets does not run the risk of cross-
contamination. “Our products are all specifically
aimed for those who normally would not be able to
enjoy baked treats. Those with food sensitivities are
our biggest fans.” Melanie says.
Love through sharing is the best form of therapy
according to Melanie. Her business has helped bring
her family and a community of people together who
otherwise didn’t have the platform to share their
similar experiences with food allergies. Her sons come
to the bakery with her every Saturday to share smiles
and pick out treats. “It’s the highlight of my week,”
Melanie says, of the bond she and her boys share.
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 9
I N S I D E
Cheese Pick of the MonthHOW DOES ONE AMERICANIZE AN ITALIAN CLASSIC? When Rogue Creamery attempted the
interpretation of Gorgonzola cheese made in Gorgonzola, Italy, they created its cheesy Oregonian
relative: Oregonzola. The Oregonzola Blue Cheese is an award winning dairy product both here in the
US and abroad. Made with raw whole cow’s milk and aged for a minimum of 120 days in the creamery’s
caves, this cheese has a tart and fruity taste accentuated by bright bluing that is paired with the
creamiest texture of all Rogue Blue cheeses.
Wine pairings for Oregonzola Blue Cheese range from Syrah to Pinot Noir to Port. Fruit, notably
pear, goes exceptionally well with this cheese. It can also make for a delicious fondue, or even be eaten
on its own as the dénouement of a meal. For more information on Oregonzola Blue Cheese, Rogue
Creamery cheeses, or other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.
OREGONZOLA BLUE CHEESE
HOW GREEN ARE YOU?
CHEF JAMES LAMBRINOS IS DOING HIS PART IN
PASADENA at a|k|a An American Bistro to minimize
his kitchen’s impact on the planet.
Chef Lambrinos, 41, was born and raised in a
family of restaurateurs in New York and was
introduced to the world of food at an early age. Food
quickly became his whole life as he worked at the
family business while attending The Culinary
Institute of America. He gathered experience in New
York City, South Carolina and North Carolina before
his arrival in California in 2011. Chef Lambrinos
strives to produce clean, harmonious flavors while
practicing notable environment-friendly practices.
a|k|a An American Bistro
41 Hugus Alley, Pasadena, CA 91105
(626) 564-8111 www.akabistro.com
HOW DO YOU HANDLE FOOD PURCHASES AND
LEFTOVERS?
We try our best to buy locally, but the bulk of our
food is purchased through our purveyors. We do buy
organic, seasonal foods though. When it comes to
seafood, we primarily try to buy wild caught.
Generally we do not have many leftovers, but the
leftovers that we do have are either applied toward
another menu item or given to the staff for their
employee meal. Composting would be ideal but our
resources are limited, so we do not compost.
WHAT ABOUT WATER EFFICIENCY?
We use low flow nozzles for the dish area and hand
sinks, but not in the other areas when getting as
much water into a pot as fast as possible is needed.
WHAT DO YOU RECYCLE?
We recycle just about everything here. Our cardboard
is recycled just outside our back door. The bottles
and plastics are given to our dishwashers at the end
of the day and by the end of the week, they can get
as much as $300 in recyclables. Win/win.
WHAT KIND OF TO-GO CONTAINERS?
We do not use compostable items, but do reuse our
plastic containers. Our to-go containers are made
from recycled materials.
HOW ARE YOU SAVING ENERGY?
We use energy efficient light bulbs where applicable.
Heating and A/C are only used when needed. Lights
are turned off when not in use and all appliances are
also turned off when not needed.
USE OF CHEMICALS?
I try and go organic when it comes to chemicals used
for cleaning and other applications. Some are better
than others and some just don't work well enough for
us. I am in constant contact with my purveyors
looking for new organic solutions.
When it comes to being green, we always try to
self educate and at the least, we are open to new
green products and practices.
Keeping Green at a|k|a An American Bistro
10 www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012
T R ENDS
We see it happening in our
restaurants and bars:
cucumber, basil, and liquor
bottles that appear to be
from the roaring twenties.
We watch it on TV in
episodes of Mad Men or Boardwalk Empire.
What is this liquid phenomenon that is sweeping
America’s metropolitan hubs? It is the greatest
rise in the American cocktail culture since
prohibition; it is small batch, pot distilled and
hand crafted, It is modern mixology, and it’s the
start of a beautiful thing.
Artisanal spirits are popping up on every
back bar, store shelf and liquor cabinet in the
country. There are many great spirits out there.
Currently, one Peruvian gem is taking the US by
storm, and I welcome it with open arms and a
thirsty soul. Pisco is the national spirit of Peru
and is nothing more than distilled wine. It’s
distilled to proof 40-43% (alcohol by volume),
meaning you can’t add water to the finished
distillate, and it’s usually made in a pot still.
ORO pisco is one of the first brands that has
really harnessed all that pisco has to offer. ORO
distills a varietal of expressions, all from
carefully cultivated estate grown grapes. I really
appreciate the uniqueness that each grape
brings to the glass but I must say my favorite
varietal for mixing has to be ORO Torontel. The
Torontel pisco smells like a tall glass of Welch’s
and tastes of concord grapes, lemongrass and
elderflower. Before mixing cocktails I like to get
to know the spirit in its most raw form. I do this
because the art of mixology is not about masking
the taste of bad liquor, like our brethren during
Prohibition, but to appreciate the spirit,
accentuate its natural flavors and add depth to
the drinking experience.
Here is a great recipe to make at home and
enjoy when the clock strikes midnight.
MIDNIGHT LUSH
4 Red grapes
2 Blackberries
5 Mint leaves
1/2 oz Lemon juice
1/2 oz Agave nectar
1 1/2 oz Oro pisco Torontel
Place grapes, blackberries, mint and lemon
juice into a mixing glass. Muddle thoroughly
until the grapes and blackberries are pulverized.
Add agave, pisco and ice, shake hard for 8-10
seconds and strain into a martini glass. Garnish
with blackberries and a lemon twist or edible
carnation.
Joel Black, Los Angeles based mixologist,
opened one of the first handcrafted cocktail bars
in Hollywood. He’s won multiple cocktail
competitions, traveled the world and now
consults for some of the top brands, bars and
companies in the business. His calling is to
spread the good word of a better way to drink,
share his recipes and quench the thirst of every
hard working American.
The Riseof theAmericanCocktailCultureby Joel Black
“IT KEEPS MEAT TENDER, MOIST AND FLAVORFUL,” Phil Knoke explains the advantages to brining. He would know, as chef and owner of Culinary
Entertainment, formerly known as SteerCrazy International BBQ & Catering, in San Juan Capistrano. He advises that lean cuts of meat, those that take a long
time to cook or dry out easily, lend themselves to brining.
A basic brine uses salt, sugar, water and other ingredients added by preference. The time the protein rests in the solution depends on the thickness and type of meat.
Knoke likes Jamaican spices on chicken, Hawaiian spices on fish and southwestern on meat. He also adds herbs, fruit juices and wine. “I personally prefer
sea salt rocks. They are ground fresh just like peppercorns.” He usually brines over night or about 12 hours. “Pouring off brining liquid is a must or the sauce
would be too salty.”
“You're going to laugh, but I use Coca-Cola and kosher salt as a brine for chunks of albacore or marlin before hot-smoking,” says SOL Cocina Executive Chef
Deborah Schneider who brines pork racks, pork shank pork loin, marlin and brisket which marinates for 24 hours.
“I like kosher for brining but any will do. Just remember 16 parts water to 1 part salt,” advises Chef David Dennis of The Matador Cantina in Fullerton.
Dennis brines all of his chicken, including wings, and all his pork. “They tend to dry out if they are not brined. We’ve all had that dry Thanksgiving turkey.”
Dennis brines whole chickens or turkey between 6 and 12 hours. He gives pork 8 to 24 hours with the exception of pork loin that gets no more than two.
“I sometimes add sugar or liquid smoke, but rarely do I use herbs.”
Brand Chef Michael Stebner of True Food Kitchen points out another advantage of brining. “It allows you to get salt into the meat so the flavor runs through
it, instead of just on the surface.” He brines poultry and pork but does not recommend beef or seafood. “Brining beef tends to discolor the flesh.”
Stebner favors sea salt and soy sauce when applicable. His favorite spices are cumin, chili powders, cinnamon, turmeric and ginger, “They can be used in
many ways, combined or left alone. Don't forget fresh herbs too.” He also emphasizes using the lowest part of the refrigerator so as not to contaminate produce
or other foods.
Brining for Flavor and Moisture
T R ENDS
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 11
FOOD TRUCKS CONTINUE TO SATIATE THE PUBLIC’S APPETITE FOR
DINING ADVENTURE in an easy, approachable venue. As the only vegan food
truck in the OC, Seabirds is uniquely planet and animal friendly. Owner
“Mama Bird” Stephanie Morgan believes in a healthy and sustainable life
style and she’s found selling vegetable based dishes a challenge in the world
of BBQ, sliders and burgers. Despite this her veggie niche wins hearts and
mouths all over Orange County. “I love introducing people to a new way of
eating. It makes my day when people say they thought they hated veggies but
love our food!”
Born and raised in Laguna Hills, Morgan, 27, graduated from UC San Diego
with a degree in cultural anthropology and later moved to New York City to
become a broker’s assistant.
Morgan became a vegan out of curiosity and educated herself on the topic.
Originally she wanted to understand the unpronounceable ingredients on food
labels but after reading eight books on
food, food politics and nutrition she
realized a change was called for.
“I had no intention of going vegan
but the things I read both shocked me
and upset me enough that I couldn't
think about meat or cheese or eggs
the same way. It was difficult at first
to change my diet and learn the ropes
— find the best brands and
restaurants — but I love a good
challenge and embraced it fully. I
started eating only fruits and veggies
and whole grains and saw a huge
improvement in my health and energy. I fell in love with this new conscious
way of eating and never looked back,” she says.
Becoming a vegan wasn’t too difficult a transition, “I grew up with meat,
but when I lived away I pretty much lived off veggie burritos and pasta.”
After returning to Orange County from New York, Morgan looked around for
places to eat and came up short. “I really just wanted another vegan option so
badly that I had to create it! I initially wanted to open a restaurant but decided
a food truck was a better way to test the market, gain some knowledge, and
try out my recipes before I made a huge investment.”
Seabirds has been on television a couple of times already, in The Great
Food Race and The Ellen Show. “We really wanted to get on The Ellen Show
because we are huge fans and love that she and Portia (Ellen’s wife Portia di
Rossi) are vegan,” says Morgan. After a silly video posted on YouTube and
several phone calls, Seabirds was invited to serve the audience in honor of
Ellen’s 1400th show. “We were extremely excited and went to the studios. We
served everyone and had a lot of fun.”
Recently, Morgan completed her first e-cookbook, The Seabirds Vegan
Revolution, available on her website. Like many other food truck proprietors,
she plans to open her own restaurant some day. “I think Orange County needs
many more vegan restaurants and I’d love to be one of them.”
HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE NAME?
It came to me in a dream.
HOW DO YOU MARKET TO YOUR CUSTOMERS?
Facebook, Twitter, Yelp, vegetarian sites, and driving a big billboard around
town.
DO CUSTOMERS COMMENT ON YOUR PARTICIPATION IN THE FOOD
NETWORK’S GREAT FOOD TRUCK RACE? WAS IT A GOOD THING FOR
YOUR BUSINESS, NOW THAT SOME TIME HAS PASSED?
The show was amazing for business; we got really lucky being picked! We have
a lot of people comment on the show and love the part where we had to go to
the sausage factory.
WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT THE TRUCK VS A RESTAURANT? THE
WORST THING?
The best thing about having a truck is being able to reach people all over
town and being a part of lots of
cool events. The worst thing is
breakdowns and the limitations of a
tiny kitchen.
WHAT IS A TYPICAL DAY LIKE FOR
YOU? WHEN CAN YOU TAKE A DAY
OFF? HOW MANY HOURS DO YOU
WORK A DAY?
I don’t have a typical day really.
Some days I wake up early and race
around town all day, other days I pick
up produce at the farm, do a lot of
prep work, and then answer emails.
And some days I sleep in and let the
birds take care of everything. I try to take Sundays off.
WHERE DO YOU PARK TO PREP OR OVERNIGHT?
Lots of people think I park the truck in my driveway but I don’t. All food trucks
in Orange County have to park at a commissary. It’s basically our home base
where we park, prep, fill up with water, empty our trash and grey water, plug
in and get propane.
WHAT KINDS OF GREEN PRACTICES HAVE YOU IMPLEMENTED?
Most basically, serving a plant based menu is green. We also source as local as
possible — from a neighboring farm, (Tanaka Farms, Irvine; Orange County
Produce, Irvine). Additionally, all of our packaging and utensils are eco friendly.
DO YOU MISS ANYTHING AS A VEGAN?
The only thing I really miss is a New York style cheese pizza. But there are
some great pizza joints in NY that make an awesome vegan pizza that does the
trick.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN THE OC?
Right now my favorite is Freesoul Café in Tustin. They have amazing soups and
salads.
Visit www.great-taste.net for Seabirds’ Grilled Tanaka Beets & Beet Greens
with Chive Dressing recipe from Morgan’s e cookbook, The Seabirds Vegan
Revolution.
Food Truck Fever: Seabirds Seabirds
949.463.2473
seabirdstruck.com
SUR L E MENU
Skuna Bay Salmon
Napa Rose at the Grand Californian Hotel –Anaheim Citrus cured Skuna Salmon Carpaccio withshaved endive, radish sprouts, lemon yogurtand pumpernickel croutons ................$18
Ocean Prime – Phoenix Ginger salmon, sugar snap peas, soy buttersauce ...............................................$30
Campanile – Los Angeles Olive Oil Poached Skuna Bay Salmon, asparagus,wild mushrooms, parsley pesto ..........$30
TAPS Fish House – Brea & CoronaPan Seared Skuna Bay Salmon, fresh Englishpeas, mushrooms, corn, chorizo, sautéed peagreens topped with saffron corn foam...$29
St. Francis – Phoenix Roasted Salmon “Superfood”, quinoa,avocado, soy beans, radish, sweet chilevinaigrette ........................................$22
Drago Centro – Los AngelesSkuna Bay Salmon Agnolotti, fava beanpuree & Olive Oil foam ......................$28
The Ranch Restaurant and Saloon –Anaheim Skuna Bay Salmon, black quinoa,California pistachios, vine-dried grapes,tangerine nage ..................................$25
Quiessence Restaurant – Phoenix Skuna Bay Salmon, cauliflower tritato,shallot jus, Queen Creek olive vinaigrette,and broccolini relish..........................$37
Anaheim White House – Anaheim Skuna Bay Salmon Chocolat, a WhiteHouse Signature Dish, steamed salmon filetserved atop a delicious Belgium whitechocolate mashed potato puree ..........$30
Bluefire Grill at La Costa – Carlsbad Skuna Bay Salmon, crispy skin, squash,
life’s a choke cauliflower sauce .......$34
Hyatt Regency Irvine Skuna Bay grilled salmon, herb quinoa,pearl vegetable, raspberry coulis .........$27
Joe’s Restaurant – Venice Skuna Bay Salmon, lemongrass broth,confit sunchoke, maitake mushrooms,artichoke, crisp quinoa ......................$19
Flavor – Del Mar Skuna Bay Spicy Salmon Hand Roll, soypaper, fried onion, osetra caviar..........$10
Flavor – Del Mar Skuna Bay Salmon, spinach, cippolini onion, mushrooms, parsley & garlic purée ...............................................$28
Five Crowns – Corona Del Mar Skuna Bay Salmon, wild mushroom breadpudding, broccoli de ciccio ................$29
Salmon is considered to be ahealthy food choice, due to thehigh levels of protein, omega-3fatty acids, and vitamin D,however, not all salmon iscreated equal. With all the care
and dedication given to raising salmon, onlysix percent graduate to the level of SkunaBay Salmon, www.skunasalmon.com.
Paddy Glennon, VP of Sales at SantaMonica Seafood had this to say upon seeingthe chefs’ reactions to the Skuna BaySalmon. “It is the little things in life thatmake me push harder for my clients. To seethe eyes on the chefs when they first openand touch the beauty and quality of thecrafted Skuna Bay Salmon is just awesome.I love to see how inspired they get; to receivea salmon of this level, firmness, clarity andflavor is not something that happens everyday. It is great to see top culinarians act likekids on Christmas morning — I love that!”
12 www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012
SUR L E MENU
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 13
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEEDFood Safety
Variety
Quality
Cost Control
The Fresh Produce Specialists
Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165
www.FreshPoint.com
www.TheProduceHunter.com
155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744
Pan Seared Skuna Bay SalmonServed with fresh English peas, wild mushrooms, corn, Spanishchorizo & sautéed pea greens topped with saf fron corn foam
COVER RECIPE
SALMON AND VEGETABLESSalmon - pat dry with paper towelSalt and fresh cracked pepperMushroom (hon shumeji)CornPotatoes - small dicePea greensFresh peasSpanish chorizo - slicedSalt and pepper the salmon and sear in
smoking hot pan. Add mushroom, corn and
potatoes. Add pea greens and fresh peas.
Turn salmon over and cook till preferred
internal temperature.
Place foam (recipe follows) on plate, then
top with sautéed vegetables and fish. Finish
with Spanish chorizo.
SAFFRON CORN FOAM1 T Shallots
Salt and pepper - to taste2 C Corn1 T Butter1 C Corn stock2 C Half & half1 t Turmeric1 pinch SaffronSauté sliced shallots with butter, salt &
pepper to taste. Add corn cut fresh off the
cobb and cook for about 5 minutes. Deglaze
with corn stock and half and half. Add
turmeric and saffron let simmer till liquid is
level with corn. Liquefy in blender and strain
through fine china cap.
Pour into whipping canister and keep
warm in baine marie.
Sauerkraut, kimchi, relish, chutney and chow-chow represent just some of thetraditional kinds of pickled goods. “Most cultures started to pickle in order topreserve. You can find pickled veggies in all cuisines,” says Michael Stebner. Likemany others, the True Food Kitchen brand chef makes pickled onions, zucchini andpeppers as well as most of the condiments served in the restaurants.
Salty, sour, sweet and tangy in any combination adds tang and zest to sandwiches, soups,salads and entrees. This humble staple has made its way onto a wide range of restaurant menusincluding fine dining. Chefs have added pickling to their repertoire of techniques and are givingunique spins to their house made versions. Chef/caterer Phil Knoke of Culinary Entertainmentnotes, “Recently it’s been brought back and expanded on with all the chefs doing more of acreative fusion and finding ways to make pickled food fit in to just about anything,”
“Almost every dish in RAYA has something pickled because it creates a balance in flavorsof the food. I am a firm believer in sweet/salty/bitterness/sour and umami. The pickled itemsadd just enough acid. I also love it because it intensifies the flavor of the ingredient andtexture,” Gerlach shares. “In RAYA, we use many different pickled onions such as red, whiteand wild leeks (like ramps to green garlic). We also pickle chiles. But wait, it gets better thanthat. After we pickle the chiles, we tempura them,” Gerlach shares. Some of the items Gerlachserves with pickled veggies include Smoked Pacific Swordfish Dip – pickled jalapeños, VintageNatural NY Sirloin – grilled pickled onions, and Black Bass – tempura pickled chiles.
14 www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012
Pickled vegetables at TWENTY6
F EATUR E : L ’ E N T R E E´
by Linda Mensinga
“Pickling began 4,000 years ago using cucumbers native to India and it was used as away to preserve food for out-of-season use and for long journeys, especially by sea whenyou never knew how long you could be out. Now, we eat pickled items because welove the taste.” — Chef Marissa Gerlach of Raya at The Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel
PICKLE MEPink, Purple or Green
The Matador’s Chef David Dennis picklesonions, carrots and chiles. “I put pickledonions on our steak and on our steak salad; thechiles and carrots usually as a garnish. It justgives the food a contrast of flavor.” Dennismakes all the salsas in house along withchutney, mustard and different ketchups. “Ittakes food to the next level, and it’s alwaysbetter homemade.”
Deborah Schneider, executive chef at SOLCocina in Newport Beach, is only picklingjalapeños right now. “The pickled jalapeño is apalate cleanser — bites between bites.” Herjalapenos are made unique by the addition oftequila to the pickling mixture. “I want to picklemany more varitities of vegetables for our newlocation coming to Scottsdale — vegetables likecauliflower, carrot, chayote, and little sweetpeppers. Pickled garlic is pretty awesome too.”
At La Quinta Resort near Palm Springs,Chef Michael Vaughn runs the kitchen atTWENTY6, the hotel’s all day dining facility.“Currently we are pickling cucumbers andpurple cauliflower,” he says. “Pickledvegetables are a refreshing way to begin a mealand also serve as a great way to cleanse thepalate for the flavors to come.” The house madepickles are served with burgers and sandwichesand the cauliflower arrives as a complimentaryfirst bite when guests are seated.
An avid pickle-maker, Vaughn also picklesgreen beans, baby carrots, okra, radishes,cherry peppers, tear-drop tomatoes andcrosnes* in season. The jars add a colorfulvisual to the restaurant’s interior. Vaughnshares, “The pickled vegetables add zest,flavor, color, texture and a bit of excitement tothe dishes that they accompany. The housemade pickles have a beautiful bright and freshcolor to them, as well as a tremendous“crunch” that can be heard while enjoying.”
“Made from scratch” is embedded in ChefVaughn’s culinary DNA. Most of his condimentscome from the kitchen instead of jars.Examples include blueberry sauce for hotcakes,ranchero sauce with huevos rancheros, andCalifornian Gilberto Benedict Secret Sauce onburgers, beef and crab sliders, and corned beefsandwich. A Hot Wing Sauce in developmentwill join the ketchup, BBQ and steak sauce.“We also make all of our dressings,
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 15
F EATUR E : L ’ E N T R E E´
PICKLED SALMON1 filet Salmon - skin off
1/2 cup Brown sugar1/2 C Kosher saltClean salmon of any grey meat or blood
line. Mix together brown sugar and 1/2 cup
salt. Place a layer of the salt/sugar mix on
a sheet of plastic wrap. Place the salmon
on top and then cover with the remaining
salt/sugar mix and wrap up in the plastic.
Place in the refrigerator for 1 1/2 hours.
SALMON PICKLING LIQUID2 C Water2 C White wine vinegar1/2 C Sugar - white1/2 C Kosher salt2 Onions - slicedIn a pot, bring the water, vinegar, white
sugar, 1/2 cup salt, and onions to a boil.
Then cool. Remove salmon from the cure
and wash off all salt/sugar. Place the salmon
in the cooled pickling liquid overnight.
PURPLE ONION1 White onion2 Red Beets - roasted1 C Salmon pickling liquidSlice onions as thin as possible. Grate the
beets and mix with the onions. Bring the
pickling liquid to a boil and pour over the
onion/beet mixture. Allow to steep in the
liquid until cool and the onions have been
stained purple.
SALMON CREAM1/4 C Crème Fraiche1/4 C Cream cheeseAllow the cream cheese to soften to room
temperature. Blend cream cheese and
crème fraiche together.
Plate pickled salmon with marinated
fingerling potatoes, beets, onions, salmon
cream, rye puree (optional), smoked
salmon roe and dill as shown. Serve with
rye bread.
Pickled Salmon with Purple Onion& Salmon CreamChef Micah Wexler of Mezze in West Hollywood shared his recipe for pickled salmon (pictured
here) made with Skuna Bay Salmon. “Pickled salmon is an old school Jewish technique. It is
sort of a lost art that a lot of people don’t know about and have never tried. That dish is my
homage to the classic,” he says. Recipe follows or you can print a copy at www.great-taste.net.
Continued on page 16
*Crosne, pronounced "crone", is a root vegetable with a nutty sweetness reminiscent of jicama or Jerusalemartichoke.
vinaigrettes, salsas and infuse our own special blend of maple syrupwith Tahitian vanilla bean and Jack Daniels whiskey.”
Vaughn prefers pickling his own in order to have total control of theoutcome, and it gives him room to experiment. “Sourcing quality, fresh,environmentally responsible ingredients; choice of method ofpreparation; seasoning to maximize flavors; and vessel for presentation,”allow him to create a superior product. In addition, he learns more aboutthe ingredients and finds it helps to sharpen his techniques. “Thecreative process is challenging and rewarding—what works well togetherand what doesn’t? Should I add a little more or less of this or that?”
Paprika is Chef Vaughn’s favorite spice, “I’m fond of theinteresting, deep rich flavor that it imparts to dishes. And I like that thecolor is bright red when used in its raw form and a deep red whenroasted.”
Caterer Phil Knoke, “OC’s Rock N Roll Chef,” creates and executesevents all over the county with his company Culinary Entertainment. Forthe most part he’s a do-it-yourselfer; pickling peppers, red onions,cucumbers, carrots and baby portabellas. He also makes his own salsas,chutneys, BBQ sauces, dressings, specialty mustards and steak sauces.“I can make them exactly the way I taste the flavors together in myhead,” he explains, but “Sometimes someone has come out with aproduct that is so good it’s not worth it to try and come up with your ownversion. The dish will just taste better with the store bought.”
Lazy Dog Café Chef Gabriel Caliendo advocates giving thetraditional preserving process a try. “It’s easy and rewarding. And thevegetables last forever.”
16 www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012
F EATUR E : L ’ E N T R E E´
Continued from page 15The Savory Spice Shop sells and shipsspices and seasonings through theirCorona del Mar locations and website,www.savoryspiceshop.com. TheirPickling Spice is a blend of crackedSaigon cinnamon, Lampongpeppercorns, brown and yellow mustardseeds, cracked ginger, coriander, dill,blade mace, allspice berries, juniperberries, cloves, Pico de Pajaro chilies andcracked bay leaves.
The site also includes easy recipes. Tomake a salt brine, mix 8 cups of waterwith a 1/3 cup salt and a 1/2 cupvinegar, enough brine for 2 quarts. Therecipe for any vegetable is 2 teaspoonspickling blend per quart of brine. Whenpickling, be sure that the vegetables arecompletely submerged in the brine.
CH E F P R O FI
LESANTAMONICASEAFOOD
SP
O
N S O R E DB
Y
**
This seemingly simple statement made by Chef Manuel “Manny” Gonzalez during the lovelyafternoon I spent at TAPS Fish House and Brewery speaks volumes about his perspective.He believes that all the seats will fill themselves if the food and service are great. This is nosmall feat in a restaurant that can do 1200 (!) covers in a day. Great food is the result of hisstellar experience including CCA training and hard work under celebrity chefs merged with
rare common sense, urgency and a selfless attitude. Great service means that customers should not haveto ask for a thing once they have placed their order. As Manny moved up the ladder of success, hespecifically points out the importance of the time in his career when he was finally able to cook as well asinteract with guests; when front of the house and back of the house came together for him.
Manny points out with obvious passion how TAPS is run during my tour of the entire restaurant andkitchen. Owned by the Manzella family, TAPS is one of three family owned locations including The Catch(Anaheim) and TAPS (Corona). What could easily be a chaotic situation is anything but. Oyster shuckingtrophies sit atop the shiny oyster bar with cooks shucking oysters at a speed I’ve never seen.
Homemade beers are created in-house behind a massive wood bar with the time and attention most
Chef Manuel “Manny” Gonzalezby Chef Katie Averill
Continued on page 18
Photo by Michael Rutt
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 17
F EATUR E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E
“The most expensive seat in the house is the empty one.”
F EATUR E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E
18 www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012
often given fine wine. Today’s specialty boastsnotes of coffee and chocolate. We breeze bya cigar station (why not?) where the décor isvery warm Old Boys Club. Moving into thekitchen, we’re aware of the absence ofseafood odor. At the volume that they sell,product moves in and immediately out of therestaurant each day contributing toeverything being as fresh as it can be. Eventhe corn is shucked daily and roasted to
order. Manny’s philosophy is that his cookscan make fast work of a task if they do itevery day or turn it into a 10 hour job if theydo it once a week.
I’m struck by the large number of cooksbustling around; forty-five cooks to be exact.Managing the cooks’ schedules and concernsmight just be a full time job in itself. Heresponds, “It’s not a big deal, I either say yesor no…” in his mild mannered friendly way.There is suddenly no response to this but
APPLE PORK CHOP MARINADE5 Pork chops4 1/4 Cloves garlic1 C & 1 T Apple cider vinegar1/2 C & 1 t Soy sauce2 C & 1 T Honey1 t Ground ginger4 1/4 Pinches ground black pepperPlace pork chops into a large resealable bag. In
a blender or food processor, combine the garlic,
vinegar, soy sauce, honey, ginger, and pepper.
Puree until the garlic has been finely chopped.
Pour this mixture over the pork chops. Seal,
and marinate in refrigerator at least 4 hours.
CHIPOTLE MAPLE POLENTA (Serves10) 2 C Polenta4 C Chicken stock
Salt and pepper - to taste1 C Butter1/4 C Sage - picked2 C Heavy cream1/4 can Chipotle chile in adobo1/4 C Maple syrup1/3 C Brown sugar1/4 t Allspice1/4 can Pumpkin pureeBring chicken stock to a boil and slowly add
dry polenta while stirring. Keep stirring the
polenta till the polenta sprouts. Cook polenta
for at least 10 minutes, add salt and pepper,
and spread on sheet pan to chill.
Brown butter in large pot till amber in
color. Carefully add sage leaves and let cook
till crisp. Add heavy cream, chipotle, maple
syrup, brown sugar and allspice. Blend with
Burr mixer, add pumpkin puree then slowly
add chilled polenta and cream together.
BACON SAUTEED GREENS WITH BLISTEREDGRAPES5 lb Greens - collard, Swiss chard,
pea greens
1/4 C Canola oil1 T Sliced garlic1 T Sweet white onions - julienned1 lb Red seedless grapes1 C Diced bacon
Salt and pepper - to taste Heat oil in sauté pan. Once hot, add bacon
and keep on medium heat till crisp. Turn up
heat and add garlic, onions and grapes and
sauté quickly until caramelized, add greens
and cook till tender. Season.
4 Pears - diced with skin on2 lb Black berries1 C SugarTOPPING1 stick Butter1 C Brown sugar1 C Granulated sugar1 Egg1 1/2 C Peanut butter2 C Flour2 C Rolled oats1 t Baking soda1 t Vanilla extractPreheat oven to 350 degrees. Toss pears, berries
and sugar and place in buttered ramekins.
Combine all topping ingredients until well
mixed, crumble on top of each ramekin. Bake
for 20 minutes. Serve hot with ice cream.
Apple Pork Chop with chipotle maple polenta and bacon sautéed greens with blistered grapes
101 E. Imperial HighwayBrea, CA 92821714.257.0101www.tapsfishhouse.com
Sunday – 9:30 am to 10:00 pmSaturday – 11:30 am to 11:00 pmMon-Fri – 11:00 am to 11:00 pm
FIRST COOKING OR FOOD RELATEDMEMORY? Separating the rocks from dryhominy to make pozole.
WHAT FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THEHOSPITALITY INDUSTRY? Throwing a partyevery day.
IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE?Pirate ship captain.
FAVORITE KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL? Fishspatula.
FAVORITE KITCHEN APPLIANCE? KitchenAidMixer.
FAVORITE TYPE OF COOKWARE? All clad.
FAVORITE CONDIMENT/SPICE? Cumin
BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THEKITCHEN? You get to cook all day.
SIGNTATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE?Fried rice.
FAVORITE OC RESTAURANT? Charlie Palmer.
FAVORITE DISH TO EAT? Pho.
FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT? Cucumber.
WHAT THREE WORDS BEST DESCRIBEYOUR CULINARY STYLE? Fresh, light, andseasonal.
TAPS Fish House & Brewery
Chef Manny Gonzales
MAKE CONTACTContinued from page 17
Peanut Butter & Jelly Cobbler
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 19
F EATUR E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E
“ok”. In fact, Manny is very much hands onwhen it comes to cooking. He has creativelicense to make California cuisine as he seesit. California cuisine is fresh ingredients thatcombine a little soft with a little crunch. Withthat, I am served a gorgeous amuse plate (if Ican coin a term) of raw shaved Kobe beef, rawswordfish with tiny cross section slices ofjalapeño and a balsamic drizzle to die for;perfect soft, perfect crunch.
Maybe Manny is more even keeled thanmost chefs because he comes from laid backSan Diego. After CCA, a time with MichaelChiarello and then Gary Danko, like manynative SoCal Chefs he left and then found hisway back. He returned to San Diego andworked with certified master Pastry Chef RudyWeider as well as a restaurant in La Jollathrough every station for 5 years. But it was at910 restaurant, also in La Jolla, where he hadthe opportunity to learn about the bestingredients (mainly Chino Farms) and how touse them without the usual financial restraints.The kitchen staff was tiny there so they were aclose group, working together to create each 7course meal, one customer at a time.
In his personal life, Manny findsadventure and joy in dining on his days off.As an admitted foodie, he plans his vacationsaround where he will eat. He has traveledaround Europe (France, Spain and London) aswell as the States, meeting up with the cooksand chefs he has worked with along the way,eating as the locals do. He makes the annualNRA show and will drop in on the hot spotswhen he can. He is a fan of Chicago at themoment and will steal a trip there once in awhile. However, make no mistake, he is aworkaholic.
TAPS in Orange County called his namebecause he saw pallets of fish arrive, “notbroken down and not corrupted”. He likes thatTAPS is not a tourist destination, it is aneighborhood place which is not seasonallydirected with no off season. He enjoys seeingcustomers several times a week which isevident from the many familiar “hellos” and“goodbyes” I witnessed. After 6 years atTAPS, his routine is predictably steady,although consistently packed, and he hasmanaged to find a comfortable space. Hislevel of ease is apparent and he made me feelcomfortable as well, like I could leave myresponsibilities at the door and be taken careof for awhile.
B.O.H.
THE RESTAURANT KITCHENS IN ORANGE COUNTY ARE TEAMING
WITH UNSUNG HEROES but here at Great Taste we're singing about
them loud and clear.
Visit the new BOH Stars page on www.great-taste.net to read about
crew members that have been nominated by others at their place of
work.
THE MARCH HEROES ARE:
Daniel Esparza - Sol Cocina
José Ruiz - Matador Cantina
Josh Knoke - Culinary Entertainment
To nominate your team members visit www.great-taste.net/submissions/
What makes the idealemployee? Everyone has amental image of thatindividual and some arelucky enough to actuallyhave one in the house.
This is the first of a regular columnfocusing on star team members from thefront of the house.
Meet Rigo Miranda, a server atAntonello Ristorante in Costa Mesa and LosBrisas in Laguna Beach since 1998, RigoMiranda is a leading light in his world.According to Managing Partner Thad Foret,Mr. Miranda is the embodiment of a dreamteam member and must have been bornwith the hospitality gene.
According to Foret, Miranda standsout in countless ways running Antonello’sthree private dining rooms. Reliable anddiligent, he communicates well with guestsunderstanding their needs and wants aswell as treaing other staff with the samerespect and kindness.
THREE THINGS THE PERSON HAS DONETO EXCEED EXPECTATIONS1) When we have a problem, Rigo tries tosolve the problem, not point fingers. Hegives us ideas to make things run smootherand it helps the entire team provide bettercustomer service.2) He comes to work early and reviews allmenus and floor plans for parties on hisown time off the clock; just so he is readyto go when the guests arrive. If weoverlooked something he catches it.3) When I call him on his day off to let himknow certain people will be dining atAntonello and they were hoping to havehim serve unless he has a family matter toattend to (boys sports), — he comes towork. Even for the customers he wouldprefer not to deal with. He realizes that it isimportant to the customer and also to thebusiness.
COMMENTS RECEIVED FROM GUESTSABOUT THE PERSON Simply put, people are discouraged if he isnot working the night they dine with us. It’sto the point where they call ahead to seewhat days he will be working so he canserve them. We get repeat business fromour private parties because of him and if heis away on vacation, a group familiar withhim will say ‘It was good, but we missedRigo.’
COMMENTS RECEIVED FROM COWORKERSABOUT THE PERSON They enjoy working with him because hemakes money for them. He is a great teamworker not a person who tells you what todo while he smooches the guest.
REVENUE AND REPEAT GUESTS He upsells wine because he isknowledgeable with wine. He providessuch great service that the guest orcompany boss says ‘let’s do it again atAntonello.’
TELL US ABOUT THE PERSONRigo is a hard working, honest and loyalemployee and a great family man and nowan American citizen.
CAREER STAGE Honestly, he does not want theresponsibility of management and toreplace him on the floor would be tough.
WHERE DO YOU SEE THE PERSON IN 5YEARS Still providing great service to people atAntonello and Los Brisas with a smile!
20 www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012
T H E B I Z : F R O N T O F T H E H O U S E
by Linda Mensinga
StellarTeamMembers Taking care of guests andbusiness
T H E B I Z : B A C K O F T H E H O U S E
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 21
Newport Meat Company hasbeen a respected purveyor ofhigh quality meats to chefs forover 35 years. Based in Irvine,CA and delivering tocustomers in five western
states, this company has always focusedon partnering with ranchers and farmers tobring naturally raised, great tasting meatsto market.
Many of the growers have been usinghumane and sustainable practices forgenerations, without feeling the need tocall attention to their production methods.However, the public has become muchmore interested about where their foodcomes from and how it is raised. Accordingto a Whole Foods national survey, over65% of Americans want assurances thattheir meat is coming from humanely raisedanimals and produced without antibioticsand added hormones.
While demand for natural foods hasbrought this category to the mainstream,the US Department of Agriculture has avery broad definition for “natural” meatlabeling. All “minimally processed” meatscontaining “no artificial ingredients”qualify for a natural label. It's no wonderthere is so much confusion forrestaurateurs and consumers alike.
Newport is trying to redefine the naturalbeef category by adopting the moststringent standards for their “Natural”label. Recently the company launchedtheir own brand of Newport Pride Natural
beef, working with ranchers of therenowned Angus breed in California,Oregon and Washington. Calves are born inopen fields and identified at birth for anatural protocol. These animals are nevergiven antibiotics, added hormones, orartificial growth promotants. As the calvesmature they are introduced to grains andhay and finished on a corn based dietwhich helps produce the buttery, rich-flavored beef found in top kitchens acrossthe country.
While other natural beef programs arebased on testing for residual hormonelevels in the meat or voluntary withdrawperiods, Newport’s program falls under thecategory of “Never, Ever”. Tim Hussman,the company’s president, describes theirprogram as, “setting the gold standard fornatural beef....great tasting meat, that Iam proud of taking home to my family”.Backing up their claims for a completely
natural protocol, each step is monitoredand audited by IMI Global, an independentthird party compliance company.
Newport has received positive feedbackby their customers who have been pioneersfor the program. Ludo Lefebvre, owner andexecutive chef of LudoBites, states, “I’vealways been a huge supporter of naturalmeats all my life and am proud to have hadan early opportunity to work with NewportPride Natural Beef during LudoBites 8.0.The beef is very clean and flavorful. Myguests have been extremely impressed byhow well it has performed.”
All Newport Pride Natural beef is graded to befrom USDA Choice and higher quality grades,aged for over 21 days to enhance the tendernessand flavor. It is unique to this program that adirect relationship has been established withregional ranchers to create a dialog and feedbackas the beef comes to market.
NewportPride,Natural BeefHumanely raised,free of hormonesand antibiotics
22 www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012
T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S
Customizing meals: what wewant and how we want it is nowat our fingertips — literally —with the iPad at STACKED:Food Well Built. With this tool,servers can’t mix up an order
since diners choose exactly the toppings,add-ons and sauces they want by simplysliding their finger across a screen.
Technology, in the form of iPads, makesthe numerous choices at STACKED bothfeasible and fun.
“We wanted to create something
entirely new in the restaurant industry — a‘Fast Casual Plus’ dining segment thatwould really give our guests theunprecedented ability to control their ownexperience,” said Paul Motenko, co-founder, STACKED Restaurants, LLC, “Ourguests have the luxury of designing theirorder to include exactly what they want;how they want it prepared, and pay for onlywhat is ordered.”
“Our objective was to have a veryfocused menu, serving what we felt wereAmerica's favorite foods: burgers, pizza,
salads and sausages. We wanted to enableour guests to create great meals bychoosing from an incredible variety ofingredients — toppings, sauces, cheeses,etc. It became clear that the traditionalfast casual or full service styles would notbe appropriate because of the tremendousnumber of choices offered. We wantedguests to be able to create their own foodin a very comfortable, uninhibited way.That's how we came up with the thought ofhaving a touch screen device at everytable,” says Motenko.
Motenko’s group actually wanted atouch screen device to implement theirgoal before the iPad came on the market.As it happened, planning and developingthe concept took a couple of years. “TheiPad had not been developed yet, but onceit was, it became very clear to us that itwas the perfect tool to create the type ofexperience that we wanted our guests toenjoy. We purchased the iPads the day thatthe iPad 2 came out.”
Guests are shown how to use the iPadsor they can order from a regular menu. Anitem is chosen. Start with the Kung Fusion— Brioche Bun / Certified Angus Beef/Cucumber / Wasabi Mayo / Sriracha Mayo/Pickled Ginger Slaw — then switch outbread, cheese, mayo or any item by slidingit off or on. Each change adjusts the total,allowing the customer to control the price.
Stack Your Own Burger with grilledonion, pickled onion, caramelized onion,onion strings, fried egg, applewood smokedbacon and avocado on whole wheat, glutenfree or pretzel bun; who needs the beef? OrStack Your Own Pizza with kalamata olives,Basil Pesto Sauce, Smoked Gouda or FetaCheese, pineapple or mushrooms. It’s yourpizza, stacked at the touch of a finger.
Servers are able and happy to bringadditional items after the order is served.
Besides the burgers, pizzas, salads andsausages; guests can stack sides, cookiesandwiches, shakes and the kids menu.
Currently there are three STACKEDlocations; Torrance, Cerritos and SanDiego. Check averages are just under $12with an average of 6,000 guests per week.More STACKED lcoations are planned, butno specific sites have been chosen yet.
Visit stacked.com to find a location andsee the entire menu.
SubstitutionsEncouraged Technology enhances guestexperience at STACKED
by Linda Mensinga
T H E B I Z : B E V E R A G E S
MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste 23
L ike mother says: sometimes you
just have to hold it.
She’s talking about wine, right?
It can be tremendous fun to cellar
a bottle for a few years and then
see how it’s changed.
There are numerous myths perpetrated about
proper wine cellaring and storage, and I’m here
to debunk those.
WINE ALWAYS NEEDS TO BE STORED
BETWEEN 50 AND 60 DEGREES
Only old or rare bottles purchased as an
investment need to be stored in cool,
temperature-controlled environments. If you’re
planning on drinking your wine within three
years, temperature consistency is more
important than a specific climate. Don’t allow
the wine to fluctuate in hot and cold
environments and keep it below 78 degrees, and
it should drink well for several years. Find a
basement or closet out of direct light and heat
with a consistent temperature and everything
will be A-Okay.
ALWAYS STORE YOUR WINE HORIZONTALLY
How soon will you be drinking the wine? If you
plan to age it for two or more years, then store the
wine horizontally, so that the liquid forms a seal
and keeps the cork moist to avoid wine-damaging
oxygen from entering. If you plan on drinking the
bottle within two years, the combination of cork
and capsule (the foil seal) should keep the wine
fresh and tasty even if stored upright.
WHITE WINE CAN’T BE AGED
Au contraire! Certain whites can be aged and
will drink impressively after a few years.
Although white can’t be aged as long as red
(thanks to higher acid levels and lack of
preserving tannins), white wines with lower
levels of acidity or residual sugar left in them
(think Chardonnay, Viognier, etc.) can be aged
and often improve with some cellaring.
YOU NEED A CLIMATE-CONTROLLED WINE
CELLAR OR WINE REFRIGERATOR
You don’t need to spend a bundle to cellar your
best bottles. You just need three things: a mini-
fridge ($100, or less if you find it used); an
appliance timer ($15); and a refrigerator
thermometer ($5). Plug the fridge into the timer
and into the outlet. Turn the thermostat to the
warmest setting, and wait for 12 to 24 hours. If
the temperature is between 50 and 60 degrees,
you’re set. If it’s colder, adjust the timer so that
the fridge turns off for more time. Trial-and-error
is key, but eventually you’ll find the right timing
to maintain that temperature. A new wine
refrigerator at a fraction of the cost!
You can take a $20 bottle of wine and turn
it into $100 bottle just by giving it some time.
Don’t be afraid to buy multiple bottles of wines,
sock them away, and see how great they taste
once they’ve matured.
Chris Kern is owner of the Chris Kern’s
Forgotten Grapes [email protected].
Wine Storage Myths by Chris Kern
949-322-7590 www.michaelrutt.com
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