GOVERNMENT OF I NDIA MINISTRY OF I NDISTY

WEAVERS 1 SERVICE CENTRE ALL I NDIA HANDLOOJ.\1 BOARD 15-A, NEW QUEEN Is ROAD

(Opp.ROXY CINEMA) No . HB/W0C/ 4-6( 3 ) ,130MBAY- 4. 1 l. '73 Shri K. G. Subr-amanian , Reader , Faculty of Fine Arts, M •• University of Baroda , Pushp Baug , B HOIA .

Sir,

~:>HellitM1i~~$:~:&'l4:~l:~NKif

Sub;i Minutes of the Technical Seminar on handloom Industry.

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Enclosed please find minutes of tho Tech~cal Seminar on .Handloom Industry· hold at Bombay on the ~th , 27th and 28th March, 1964 for your information 411d record. ·

Yours faithfully,

R> . lc_ .~._:_

-( B.K. Shahani ) Assistant Direetor.

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MINUTES OF THE MEETING OF THE TECHNICAL SEMINAR ON H 1~IiliLOOM INDUSTRY HELD IN BOMBAY ON 26TH TO 28TH MARCH, 1964,

*Present:-

. . ...., *(A sep~rate list is attached at the end) '

Opening the proceedings, Shri R. Doraiswamy, Chairman, All India Handloom Board,· welcomed Shri Nityanand Kanungo, · Minister for Industry, who, despite his multifarious engagements and activities and also at a time when Parliament was in session had very kindly agieed to inaugurate the Technical Seminar on the Handloom Industry. It showed.the measure of importance the Government is attaching to the development of this vital cottage industry of the country. Proceeding, Shri Doraiswamy enumerated the various measures taken by the Government of India during the last few years .for the rehabili.tation of the Handlooro Industry. It is unfortunate that a number of improved accessories and items of equipment \<Ihich had earlier been supplied tp the industry remained unutilised. This resulted in inflating bhe cost of production for the industry and retarded its growth. · One of the ma in purpose of this Seminar should be to discuss the reas·ons for nonutulisation of the improved appliances and to devise effective me as ures t6 ensure that they are utilised to the fullest extent }Xlssible in the interests of the industry. Continuing, Shri Dora iswamy referred to the suggestion of working 'Beacon a~eas' on the lines r ecommended by the Working Group (Study Team) f ·or the Handloom Industry 9 in tne year 1959. The intention was that compact areas should be taken up where all the development schemes of the Government should be experimented upon in an intensive way so that it should . be possible to assess the impact of individual schemes on the progress of the industry. He stressed on the representatives of various State Governments who had assembled at the Seminar, to impress upon their respective Governments the urgent nee'tl for the implementation of the scherre~s, vigorously. Another point on which Shri Doraiswamy laid emphasis was a discussion on the means by which the development programmes for the handloom

·industry could be geared to the product ion of standard qualities which could be profitably exported to foreign countries thereby earning maximum foreign exchange. Th(:ro vJas, from all accounts,

' considerable scope for enlarging our earnings through exports D:1.--1. of hand-woven fabrics.

I :1itiat ing the Hc: ndloom S,::;;:~ inar, Si·,:r i Nityanand Kanungo pointed out that he was happy to be present at this Seminar, the first of its ki.tJ,d to be held dealing with problems relating to a de~centralised industry like handlooms, which plays a vital role in the nation's economy. He was fascinated by the richness of the industry and he felt that his knowledge grew richer everyt:ilne time he participated in discussions of this nature ,.. After praising in brief the various measures t aken on the advice of ~ne Board by Government· for the improve ment of the industry, he laid more StresS on the ne ed Of the i ndUStry pr ogr ess ivoly to chang~ I .

over to meet the aesthetic n2eds of the · consuming public. Gove.:nm ,:-A had spent over 50 crores of rupees on the development of the

-· handloom industry since tho ye ar 1952 . He indicRted that the survival · of the handloom weaver would ultimately depcndupo.nthe use of his best ~kill; this could be ensured by the progrdssive production of ' ·sophisticated' products which have a gruwing demand both at home and abroad. There are constantly changing techniques in textile technology throughout the world, and it would be well if the handloom industry took note of these constant changes. The surviv.al of the weavers could only be assured by the ir going in for meet 1ng· ·the -·new- -ne-e-ds---of- .the--·~is.t.:ie at€ d--eust ome r s ...... As .the present Finance Minister had so succinctly stated as early as in 1954, what the Government \vas interested \vas not the product of the loom, but the 1 man 1 behind the loom and his real living conditions.

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The Minister for Industry then traced the development o~ th ~arious units of the Weavers' Servicci .·Centres, which in his opin~on, had done tremendous work; the value of work done in thes~ Centr~ s had been well a ppreciated by those who were competent to JUdge on the aesthetic value of textile fabrics of different kinds. He was confident that the sum total of the various services being made available by these Centres would tend to ensure better days for the handloom weaver. )

During the course .of a general discussion wl)ich ensued later, the following points wer e brought out by those present. 3hri M.P •

. Nach:tmuthu, President Tamil Nadu Handloon vJeavers 1 Cooperative Soc1ety, pointed out that while the handloom industry was not very · optimistic about the outcome of the \tJeavers 1 Se rvice Centres in the beginning, the results of the good work of these Centres are now being known and well appreciated. He urged that there should ba :··some co-ordination between the Weavers' Service Centres on the one hand and the production units in the Primary and A.pex Weavers 1 Socities on the other. This would go a long way in making these Centres more useful to the industry. He al s o pl eaded for these Centres designing fabrics necessary for the lovJe r income groups elso. Shri P.S. Nadkarni, Jt.Registrar of Coo perat ive Societios, Govt. of Maharashtra, Poena, agr eed on the very useful ·work done or the \<leavers' Service Centres particularly in Sholapur Dist ., where satisfactory production and marketing arra ngements had been made, and where the Weavers' Service Centre is acting as a very useful link in the chain of production and marketing of hand woven textiles. Dr.S.M. Mookerjee, Joint Dir ector of Industries (Handlooms), Govt. of West Bengal speaking on behalf of the West Bengal admitted that definite help had been rend ered by the Weavers' Service Centres as regards designs which were very popular. Much work is required to be done, however, in getting the designs t aken up by the production centres. Further, weavers found it difficult to come. to Calcutta for training. He, therefore, suggested that the Weavers' Service Centres should send a squc·d ·· of t echnicians to the production units to help production witn a guarantee that the first warp would be taken by Government supported by marketing agencies. Shri Mookerjee also stated that the Shantipuri designs distribute d by the Weavers' §ervice Centre in Calcutta had a very good market in West Bengal. Shri P. N. ChaudhuFy, Chairman, Assam Weavers' Cooperative Soc i~ty, Nalba.ri, Gauhati speaking on behalf of A.ssam stressed the desirability of a Weavers' Service Centre being oJ)Bned in his State. In his view weavers in Ass.am did not know the exi·stence of a unit of vJeavers 1 Service Centre in Calcutt·a. He also drew attention to t he peculiar difficulties experienced in Assam by the reason of t he three differe nt departments of the State ,q.overnment looking . aft er the aspects of development of the handloom industry. Shri F . M. Bh<:"\l' ad\<Jad, Pre sident of the Mys ore State Cotton Weavers' Cooperative Socie ty, Bangalore, stated that for designs to be popular, t he activitie s of the Weavers' Service Centres should also be extended t o t he villages. He suggested that greater propaganda, co-ordination and technic al aid should be carried on by the We avers' Service Centres so tho.t the f acilities afforded by these Centres could be. t aken to the very doors of the weavers. He agreed that the Weaver s ' Service Centre s wer e doing good work and expected that they should work in place s wher e there is a concentra­tion of handlooms. Shri R.V. Bet, r epresenting Western Maharashtra Central Cooperative A.ss oc i at ion, while agreeing with Shri Nadkarni stated that the utility of Weavers' Service Centre is now being realised in Sholap~r. In his opinion, Maharashtra produced cloths useful for the masses and he suggested that th e activities of the Weavers' Service Centres should be geared to the nroductio"n of such materials. Speaking for Kerala, Shri o. Gopal an, Vice-President· of the Kerala State Handloom Weavers 1 Cooperative Society, Trivandrum,urged the need for a Weavers' Service Centre in Kerala. He also suggested that trained people must be absGrbed in Cooperative Departments of the State Government and that marketing was also the main proble·m of the industry. Shri M.S.A.. Majid, Member of the \1orking Group for Handlooms, speaking on behalf of the .. extyorting 1nterests expressed the hope that the Minister for Indus-cry would

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continue to r ender tho sa~e help to the industry as had been done in the past. He also agr eed on the useful work being done by the \.11eavers 1 Service Cent r es i>Thich were in charge of Mrs.Pupul Jayakar, who was t CJ.k ing a profound int erest in the activitie s of these Centres. He expres sed the hope tha~ the good wbrk being done in the Centres would bear fruit for the industry in the long run. At . the same time, Shri Haj id stated that the weaver was tr aditionally very conservat ive . His natural opposition to improved technique s had to be gradually got over by pers uas ive measures. It was , therefor e , nec e ssary to carry the message of the Service Cent r es t o the home of the weaver . Ho wa s also of the view that tho designs produced by the Weavers' Service Centres should be marketed through the cooper ation of the Ap ax bodies in the States. Acknowledging the appreciation of th e work of the Weavers' Service Centres made by previous speakers, Ivir s .Pupul Jayakar, Hony.l\dviser (Handlooms ) stP.ted that the units of the 'vJeavers 1

Service Centres were only one phase of the deve lopment al progra~~e of t he Government fo r the irnp roveocnt of the hand loom industry. There wer e sever al technical problems wh ich the industry had to f ace. She r eferred to the t wo Institut es of Handloorn Tec hnology being run by Ce ntral Government f or gearing up the t echnological efficiency of the industry. In hor v iew, there was a great future

. for the industry both in the inter na l and externa l markets. At the same time, she point ed out t hat th o vJeaver'1·s Serviee Centre s had the ir own lir:1itations: for on.; thing , thGir n 7. s ourcos were limited. Concluding , she thanked tho Ministe r for Industry once again for having found time to open tho proceedings of tho Handloom Seminar. Tho Minister then l eft. ·,· . ; . .' : ·~ . ...

On tho sugge stion of tho Ch CJ. irman , tho Seminar broke into 2 Sub-Committee s; One for dealing with the problems of des igning, and the ot her for gener al t echnnlog ical developments in the industry including problems connecte d with exports. It wa s agreed tha t the two Sub-Committees should ooet on the following day and then the ir findings should be discussed again on Saturday i.e. 28-3-1964 at a plenary _se ssion. ·

The two Sub-Committee s (i) On Des i gning and (ii) on Technica l Problems accordingly met on Friday i. e . 27M3-1964 and submitt ed the ir r eports to the plena ry session on Saturday . r~f t e r a full discussion, the reports were adopted with cert a in minor modifications. A.g r eed conclusions of the Seoinar· .. ar e Annexures 1 A1

and 1 B1 •

Before concluding, Mrs.Pupul Jayakar urged t ho desirability of a co-ordina~ed ~pproach. to tho rl .P.VG lopment programme$ It was 'agr eed that Co-ord1nat1on Comm1ttees may be set up · for aDch of the various units of the Weavers• Service Centres, on which representative s of the ~tate Gover!'lments and the Apex Societies served by tho Weavers r Serv1ce Centres , should be included.

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The*following attended the ':technica l Seminar on Handloom Industry held in Bombay:-

1. Shri Nityanand Kanungo? Minister for Industry, Govt. of Ind ia

CENTRAL GOVT . OFFIC IALS

2. Shri R. Doraiswamy, Textile Commissioner to the Govt. of India & Chairman, All India Handloom Board, Bombay.

3. Smt. Pupul Jayal\.ar, Hony o Adviser (Handlooms), l5A New Queens Rd., Bombay 4(1

·4, Shri N. SWamy, Joint Textile Commissioner, Govt. of India, Bombay. 5. 11 I.:B. Dutt, Industrial Adviser, Off ice' of the Textile

Comissibner, Bombay. AIHB, . 6. II M.S. Ramnath, Director, vJeavers' Sel'Vice Centre,LBombay - 4. ·7. u · c.s. Ramanathan, Chief Inspecting Officer, Cotton Textile

Fund Committee, Bombay. . . 8. Dr.K.I. Narasimhan, Director, Office of the Textile Cow~r.,Bombay. 9, Dr.u. Bhattacharya, Direotor -do-

lO, Shri Madurai Nayagam, Director, Regional office of the Textile Commissioner, Govt. of India, Coimbatore.

11. .~u A.D. Verma, Senior Research Officer, PJ.anning Commissio_n, Govt. of India, New Delhi.

12. Shri K.G. Subramanian, Artist Consultant, Weavers' Service Centre, Bombay.

13~ 11 C .K. Srinivasan, Asstt .Financial Adviser, Ministry of Finance, Bombay. ,

14 • 11 I.R. Kakqr, Under Secretary, Branch Secretariat (Textile!jl) ,Bombay. 15, 11 H. Ramakrishna Rao, Principal, Indian Institute of Handloom

Technology, Salem (South India) 16.. 11 D.S.V. Iyer, -·do- Indian Institute of Handloom

Tec hnology, Varanasi 17. " S.S. Aggarwal, Secre t ary, All India Handloom Board, Bombay. 18, Dr. V .P. Kulkarni, Deputy Dir ect or (Dyeing) 9 Weavers 1 Servic~ ·Centre,

_ Bombay. 19. Shri Nireri Ghosh, Deputy Direct or (De signs) ,vveavers' Ser-vice Centre,

, Ca lcutta. 20. 11 V. N. Moralwar, De puty Direct or (Tech.) , v.Jeavers 1 Servic.e Centre,

Bombay. 21. II R.S. Prayag, Dy. Director(Dy:e L>'1ES) ~ we·ave:J::s' Service Centre,

Bangalore. . 22t 11 A.V. Ramamurthy, Dy.Director(Dyeing), Weavers' Service Centre,

Hadras. 23, 11 K.S. Bhuj ang, Dy .Director (Che mical Proc e ssing), Office of the

, Textil~e Commissioner, Bombay. . 24. 11 Sudeer Sojwalr Dy .Director(Designs), Weavers' Service Centre,

Bombay. 25. 11 s. Sankaranarayanan, Dy.Director(Dyeing), Weavers' Seryice

Centre~ Indore 26. 11 C .K. Phadke, Dy .Director (Dyeing) , 1;Je ave rs 1 Service Cen.tre,

Varanas i. . 27. 11 Jeram Patel, Dy.Director(Designs), W8avers 1 Service, Ce.ntre,

New Delhi. 28, 11 M. Nanavaty, Publicity Officer, Central Silk Board, B()mbay. 29, II v.v.Deo, Asstt.Director, All India Handloom Board, Bombay. 30, 11 B.K. Shahani, t~sstt.Director, vveavers 1 Service Centre,. Bombay. 31. " L. Desigowda, Asstt.Director -do- , New Delhi. 32, 11 G.P. Mookerjee, -do- -do- ,. Bombay. 33. 11 K.S. Desikan, -do- -do- -do-34. 11 T.S. Sundaramurthy~ As sista nt &e cretary(Tech&) Central Silk

Boa rd, Bombay~ 35. tt B.N. Basu, 'A.sstt.Dir·octor, We ave rs' Se rvice Centre, Bombay. 36, 11 K.V. Rajagopala n, Assist ant Direc t or · -do- .-do-37. " M.H. Saini, l\sstt.Dire c -cor,Off ice of the Textile Commr.Bombayc

STATE GOVT, OFFICIALS

38. Shri J .s .Jesudhasan,

39. 11 K • . Bhuvanendran,

Ad ditlonal Director of Industries & Commerce, Kera la State, Trivondrum. Ins ~e cting Officer, Industries Department, Kerala State, Tr ivandrumo

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40. Shri V.Prasad 1 Dy.Reg istrar of Coope r a tive Socie ties(Handlooms)

41. II

42. " 43. II

44. " 45. II

46. "

Bihar Sta t e , Pa tna. K.R.P. Sinha, Text ile ~pert, Industrie s De ptt.Bihar State,

Patna. B.K. Sharma, Director of Industries, De lhi Administration,

Delhi. G.C.Sood, Community Project Officer(Ind.),De ptt. of

1 Industries, Delhi Adminis t ration, Delhi. V.M. Mehta, Textile Expert, Off ice of the Registrar of

Cooperative Societies,Gujrat State,Ahmedabad. B.T. Pethambara Rao, Jt.Director of Industries & Commerce,

Mysore Sta te, Bangalore. K. Rangshetty, Asstt.Director of Industries & Commerce,

Mysore State, Bangalore. 47 • 11 Shri L. Pat g it i, Specia l Off icer (Powerlooms) Gauhat i, As sam. 48. 11 K.N. Dubey, Jt.Direct_or cum Jt.Reg i s tra r of Handloom & ·

Industrial Societie s, M.P. State, Indore. 49. 11 H.M. Raiker, Textil e Ex pert, M.P. State, Indore. so. 11 P.S. Nadkarni, Jt.Reg istr ar of I ndustr'ial Cooperative-s·,

Maha rashtra St at e , Poona. 51, 11 S.N. Kekre, Textile Expert, Of f ice of the Reg istrar of

Cooper ative Soc i e t i es , Maha rashtra Sta te, Poona. 52. :u P.S. Oka, · Textile Officer(Indu s t ria l Coopt.) Office of the

. Regi s tra r of Co oper a tive Soc ie t ies , Shola pur. 53. 11 S.M. Mukerj ee , Jt.Dir ector of Indus t rie s cum Jt.Registrar

of Coopt. Socie ties 9 We st Bengal Stat e, Calcutta. 54, · " Shri M. Ganguli, As s t t.Director of I nd us t rie s , We st Bengal

I State~ Ca l cutta.

APPEX WEAVERS' COOPERATIVE SOCIETIES' REPRESENT 1\T IVES

55, " o. Gopalan, '~ice President,OThe Kera.la Sta·te Handloom 56, " V .Ravindra-IWeaver s 1 Coope r ative Societ y Ltd., No.H.232,

nathan: {Tr ivendrum Weaving Master, -do-

57, 11 V.K. Krishnan: Tecbn;i.cal Supervisor, -do-

58. " M.-F~- ·-Nacrl.imutbu, --President (Tamil Nadu. (Mad:c.as .state) 59·-·-· -11· Janakiraman, Mar ke ting Officer )Hand loom vJeavers I . Coopt. ~DC iety

(Ltd., 34-lA, Panthen Road, · ·· ··- ·--- -·­

60. 61.

62 • . 63.

64 ..

65.

. 66.

67.

68. 69. 70, 71.

72.

73. 74.

75. 76.

)E,_.more, Madras 18. 11 F.M. Baradwad 9 Pre sident)Mysore Sta te Handloom We avers' Coopt. 11 G.V. Bhat, Director (Societ y Ltd., No.55, 3rd Main Rd.,

)Gandhi Nagar, Bangalore , 9• 11 S.R. Hegde , Secret ary ( ' 11 Nawab Sayed Azaz Ra s ool, Vice-Cha irma n, U .P. Industrial

Coope r a tive Assn. Lt d., 96/3, Chunnigaj:fj,Kanpur 11 R. V. Bet, Chairman, Mahara sht'~"'a \r<Je ave r s 1 Coope rative Assn.

Ltd., 489, Sakk ar Peth , Sholapur. 11 N, V. He-da oo, Pre s ide nt, Vidha:rt:t.a·t'feave rs 1 Centr a l Coopt. Society

Ltd., Gandh ::!-baugh , Nagpur. 11 P. S. Barve, G(1ne r a 1 Nana ge r, lSt a te Industrial Coopt ~Assn.Ltd.,

{9 Ba ke House Lane, Bombay 1. II H 0 D. Bh 0 i: I

Textile Inspector 11 S.M. Adam, Cha irman 11 M.S. Konda, A. s s ist o. nt 11anage r " B.V. Soma, De signe r 11 R. K. M. De s a i,

-do-{Tho Sho l apur Dist.Weavers 1

{C 8opt. So c ieties ,Fe deralion, {Shola pur. Th o Shola pur Dist.Industrial Coop .Ltd., Sho1apur. ·

n V .L. Indapure, Chairman? Anand Weavers' Co opt. Society Ltd., Sholapur.

11 P. Menghr a j Raj k ama l W. Coopt .Socie ty, j ombay. " p. N. Choudhary' Cha irman, ·.~ J2 ' I A pax w.coopt .sn~ it !ty J . • r

Gopinath Bardol.ai rtd., G~ubnti, , 11 R-.Jaganath Rao, Pre sident lAndhra H.W.Coopt.Society, 11 B. V. Subba Rao, Techn.i.c.aJ.-A::ss tt. lLtd., 29-6-26 Raochc:md.ra

· ' -· .. , . . . ::. ·· . .- lRao Rd., Suryarao Pet, {Vij ayawada 2.. ·.

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77. Shri V.Venkatiah , Chief Technical Asstt. Eyde rabad H.W.Coopt.

78. Shri

79 . II .

80• II

81. II

82. II

83, II

84, II

85, : II

86, II

Assn,Ltd ., 3- 5-770, Weavers 1 House , Nar aya ngudn , Hyde r a bad 3 . ( A.nc:ihr a Pradesh)

REPRESENT ATIVES OF OTHER ORGA.NISA.TIONS

N. Ramaswa my, Gene r a l Manage r,Hz::n·.l icrafts &: ~ L:.:ld lo oD;.; Export Corporation of India Ltd., Madras.

J .G. Pa:rcikh, D~ .Director 1 D.R. Sharma , l SA.SMIRA, Bombay. S.M.K. Rahman? Sr .Scientific Officer! M.B.A. Maj id, Pre side nt, Na tiona l Cha mbers of Commerce,

Madr as. M,G. Kulkarn i, A. sstt .Direc tor, (~leaving ), Bombay Industry

Textile Research Association, Bombay, P.V. Veer a raghavan , Res -;arch Associa te & In-cha r ge , Handloom

Marke ting Rese arch Unit, SITRA, Coimbatore . Gopal Rao, Secretary ! Al l India Handloom Fabr ics Marketing P. B, Che ttia r, AppraiserlSocie ty Ltd., ~ombay,

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f..I'L L~RE II fJ. ". RSPORT OF THB SUB COlCHITTEE ON DESIGNING

Out of the discussions of t he Sub-Committee on De s ign the follo wing commonly_~greed_?Ol_·n_ ts ____ h_ave emerged:

(1) For the designing activ i ty of : ~aver s ' Service Cen t. r es to be con solicL1ted and 'J Ut on a firm f ooting the basic design or obl em s ne ed to be dra-vm u p in ;re ci se t e:;.~ms -

includi ng (a) S '! e cifica ti on of mat srials.

(b) method s of ; reduction

(c) t he d iffer ent use s,

(d ) t he marke t requir ements

like price range, consumer

preferences etc.

All reques ts for redesigning of cnmmodities should be drawn u .. ) v1i th these data and. ace oGlpanio d with , the 'Jrevalent samDl es to avoid working i.n a vaccW;l~ '

On the to '! of this the Weavers' Service Centr e s .s hou~d have market r es earch units to undertake s urveys of~

(a) t he bas ic commoditi es in vogue in the different regions with full s r.e cifications (as " indica t ed above ) and working out of standard corhmodi ti e s for eEtch r eq uir emen t comp!bex should be und ertaken. Th i s '.Jill f a cil i ta t0 t iG indication of prooer standard s in ea ch cont ·J x t <md the d e 'Jreciation of these standards sh oul d bc st r ongl y di ~ coura ged.

(b) T~e bas i c c omoodities for ex0or t \vith full s0ecif i ca ti ons ~ eX'Iloratory d e signing should be undert a' r.en by s~!9cial ce3lls in each or :Ln a fe \·J mar ked cen t r e s.

(2) The s urviva l of handlo om ~ro~uction is rati ona l and nec e ssar y in t he midst of a f as tly me cha n i sing -'6rlc1 on l y if it is ae s t 11etically significant and has h uman ac'l ve.ntag's 11ocular to i t sel f 9 i. e . if t b 2 handloom 1·/eave r b e come s progr e s sively a s en s itiv 8 cr~ ft sman and not a . ' human machine' • r'1 ile t ~...,e >roposal t o conv ert looms weav ing plain v ~rieties to weav in g fi ~ur ed varietie s i s a step in t his dir e ction, a ~roper sizing u p of ho\J many l oo ms can be ke ')t a ctiv e in this mann er for int e rna l and externa l markets is ne c e s sary 1 a

pro :)e r survey of t~1 is i s e ssential.

(3 ) mile the talk of ~ndigenous(Indian) qualiti e s i s ge n er a l amonst enthusia s t s bf the industry 9 it should be r e co c,ni .sed tha t such qualities a r e not d evel oped by the me chan ica l r e0o tition of the same old motifs and ornaments ove r a nd ove r but bv

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designing f or a r e l acb ed int erna l comnl cx of n e ecl. s o f t he 'Jr esent . It ':Jill 'Jr obably be r e cogn i sed t ha t t he d e s i gn comol ex es of t he 5t h--7th centur i e s a nd t ll e 14th - -17t l1 c e nt urie s of t h is co unt ry ha ve not be en qui te the same , but have be en Ind i an ne verthe l e ss. S i mi l a r ly a mod ernLcom~l e x shoul d b e L Ind i an emi nently oossible . -

The r e i s o t t he moment a gen er a ll~ obs e rved tend ency a mon g t he ~ iffer ent r e gi ons to i ncr ea s e the ra n ge of t hei r cra ft sma n shio i n almost ev er y ran ~e of commod i ti e s t he d iffer en t nar t s of the coun t r y CJ. re c omDe t i ng with one ano t he r i n orod ucing simila r mat 3r i a l s . Th i s i s not a l 11ays hea l thy i f t he S 1Je cific subt l e t i e s of each r eg i on s cr c"'. fts mans hi 'l e e t s rubbed out . Th i s t endency a l so coul d be c ount erac t ed if commod i ty- gr oun de s igning as ment ioned a bov e could be und er t a ken ,

M a r t of t h e r reav e :c ~; ' 8 2r vic e Cen t r e ' s desi gn i n g wor k sh ould be devot ed to ex Dl ora t or y de s i gning I!·Jit h s uch a:nhbj c ctive ex pl oit ing f ul l y t he t e chn ical and or e' ent a tiona l l i mita ti ons pe cul i a r t o our c ountry .

(4 ) 1fea ve r s 1

r e soon s e far fr om

' Jhi l e t he de signing a ct :i. vi t y of t he Servi ce Ce n t r e s a r e fi nd i n g progr e·ssi ve f r om a mong t he or od ucer s it i s s t i l l being f ully t n1cen adva n ta ·;e of.

Thi s . i s due t o many r ea s ons, but on e of the ma in rea sons i s :

a ~ The )r o~ uc e r does not want t o change d e signs unl ess a s t abl e ma r ket i s rroomi sed t o him (t e c ~ni cAl ins uff icien cie s and ot her r ea ~ ons ~rt.i~nft fo r t he non-util i sati on of d e s lgn ~ be in g D•1J. v rove ,.., te f n~ '·':" n" 5.n '!1' :)h1.P n ). I f<} ')r o per

c 2.rl::otin,:.: ::.:.; ..; nc y i s f Jr :::.:; ·:l t h is pr:)bl o:·: '111111 h::: r 2ly ::v i..:.r a rise. /

Only ab so l ute ly new designs w.hich need technical readjustments will nee d demonst rat i on by th e te ~hnica l personnel of the . Weav ers 1 Se rvl.ce Ce ntre s, the norma l r e designing is to be s ugge ste d on th e bas is of the pre v a iling techniques, ~ ny irre l ev a nce ca n be av oide d , if as s ugge ste d in Point No.1, the full s pecifications ar e drawn up be f ore a design problem is t ackled .

(.fi) This will na tur a lly l e ad $ on the one ha nd, to a progr amme of orient ation of s a l a s ma n in selling the pro per comm od'ity a nd on the other, the orie nt ati.on of the cons umer in buying the mos t s uita bl e mat eria l to mee t h is need.

This ma y be d one through exhibitions, s eminars, and publ ica tions.

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(6) Th 3 des igning pot e nti~~ of Weavers' Service Centres is, a s reported by t he d i f ferent offic ers , f ar from being fully utilised. f he ab :Jve pr ogr amme s ( as :nentioned in point (5) should help. r~t t he s ame time , the quantum of exploratory designing ne cessary at the pr e se nt mome nt could be tackled by the four major centra s a nd the others could be c onfined largely to r e designing and se rvicing problem.

(7) Fi nally i t is worth noticing that the ma jor advantage of all t he red2signing and sta ndardiz ing of commoditie s goes mainly t:J t ~e me r chandiser and ve r y lit t le to the craftsman, who is really the central f ig ur e . I~ is r a ther a paradoxical f act tha t highly skilled a nd se nsitive craftsman earn a lower wage t han t he mechanic a l shuttle thumpe rs. Som8thing has to be d )DB a bout this. It wil l be worthwhile to fix a wage pe rcen tage ·of the price for e ach conunodity commons urate wit h th e l ev·e l of cr afts ma nship in\T ') lve d a nd the wages of the weaver should be progr e ssively brought upto this.

view (8) ·· In/. of the l ar ge incre a se of exports of handloom t e '<: tiles it has become an absolute necessity for designe.ca s t o be ' alert to the quick design changes in the export ·narke ts. Provision should be made for the sending of J osig~ers abroad to keep them properly in touch with every ·1ew deve lopment. ·

(9) I nte rnally, it would be adva ntageous to the industry at l a r ge if t h e ma jor Heaver s' Se rvice Centres could have short- te r m de sign tra ining courses for young artists who wa nt t o ente r the indus t r y, these centres probably belng th 3 be s t eq uippe d f or t he task. ·

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L.Nlill_XU :SE II B i I t

TISCOl':MSND A. TI ONS OF Tr~ SUB .. C Ql\~hiTT~~ A. tnOI NT~D TO DEA.L ':JI TI1 T ' ~~ T~CHNICA.L DEV~LO?t~r:;nT , Pl.ODUCTION, DY~ING Al\ID PR Oc-;;ssnTG t1. s :r~CTS !UTD ~J U:~LITY CC'NTR OL OF !·JA.NDLOOH T~ .-CTIL~S .

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I. Ari s i ng out of t he not e s and papers pertaini ng t o t he gene r a l sub j e ct of Techni cal D evelo~me nt and producti on r ead i n th e Semina r and f urthe r di s cussions ~y t he various ~e mbe rs a t a ll l eve l s , i n t he me eting , it has be en re commended t ja t ~

(1) Ther e is an ur ge nt need t o ntt enw t a t s t anda r ~ is a t ion of.t he va rious equi 1ments and anc i lla ri e s 1:1hich a r e being s ubsid i s ed by t he Cent r a l Govern ment and whi ch are not f i nding pr oper ut i l ~ s a t i on. In additi on , t lle r e s ho uld a l s o be 1 r a ti ona.lis ·.tion 1

of thes e as i t wa s br ought out t hat some of t '.xos e ivhich ar e ~~e r;1a inin g idl e a r e n ot at all r equired in t ha t particular locality wh ere t hey ha ve been 0ro~id ed, but t hey can useful l y be ut ilis ed wlse \J'' er e .

( 2 ) There i s t he nee~ to have Technical Panel a t Gtat e Gov ernment l evel t o decide on t he t y 0e of im0rovec1 a ·n lianc es \IJ h ich should be s u ·J plied for differ-ent are a s in ea ch State. T ~1 is body should c0nsi ·; t, amon gst others , r e 1w e s enta ti ve s of A. ' )BX and Primary Societi es and the Head of t l!e Jeaver s 1 Service Centre. For th e T~chn ol o ~ i c a l i mnr ove ment of t he i ndus t ry, i mrJrov eC:. a :1 :Jl ian ce s now ··being subsid.iSBd. by Government should al s o be made D.va ilabl e t o thG weaveTs out s i de the

t • I coo0era l ve r . 'Ji th :JUt su:J s i dy .

(3) A.ll exi s t .i n 8; 1 ·)o. t t arD :-18. kin g fa ct ories 1 se t uo in St a t e G-o'V-e-r nment s should be made use ot a s f oca l ce nt r e ~ f or dis oers a l of t he f c.cilitie s av<' ilJ.bl e i n t he ·1eavel1 S ' Servic e Cent r 8s to t he W8Rver s in th e Stat a .

(4)

( 5 )

The exper imen t ~ bei ng cond uct ed by ~ .I.T~R ~A.. on be llalf of t' -J -.' Te a ve r s 1 Service Centre in t 'le blend.in r.; ancl. a rl mi xture of f i bre s '!lit h cot ton a r e ~r o~ in g sot i s f 0ctory a~d t hey should be continued. The oilot 0r o j e ct required by t he s .I. T.n.A. s ~ o uld b~ con t inuect a nd san cti one ~~. fo r t he requisit e pl ant '~ h ould be ma de .

The Semi nar took note of t he offer of the r el)r es enta t ive of S.I.T.R. A. . t hat, aft e r t he producti on of sati ~ fa6tory blended yarn suitable f abrics would be Dre pared not only bv the Inst i t ute of Handloom Te chnol ogy but aiso by t he t wo handlooms 0r opo s ed t o be set up by t hem. The S .I. T.R. A. would re port on t he mar ke t r ea cti ons to cons umers ' a 0pea l on such fabri c s woven with s uch blended fibre s .

( 6 ) St a te Gover nment should t a l.ce en er getic st e os to a.s .ses s i n t he 11ilot a ren s, t he e ffect of

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(7)

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i mpr oved acce ss ories and apDliances on e. ct ua l •; r oc'!. uct i on 8. nd quality of hand­\Joven f abri cs .

t ha t ener getic stens should be ta ken i n t he Fourth Pl an t o convert 100,000 looms now nrod u cin~ gr ey fa bri cs t o be im·;r ov:i..sed or r 0or i 2nted s o t ~1a t they coul d be gea r eci. in f or t l:J e ryrorl.uction of pat t er n variet i es i n con sonance of t he cons ume r s d e~Pnd s .

II. On t he sub j ec t of eel uca t :i.on , training and servlclng being d one by t h8 I ns t i tute of qandloom Technolo gy and ·~eav er ~ ' Servi ce Cent re , i t i s r e commended that :

(i) t here s~ould be judi ci ous se l ec tion of candida t es es ~Jecially for the Di Dl oma Cour se of t lJe In s titut e s f or whrb:~h purt"Jos e open adverti s ements should be made and cand i da t e s sh ould be s el e ct ed on meri t according to t he St a te Quota.

(ii) Her i t s cholar shi ry sh ould be given to the d e s e rvin ~ candidat e s a ft er the end of the fir st year ' s t r a ining .

(i i i ) For t he Short-te rm c our se s ~ artisans fr om t he nriva t e s e ctor may also be admitt ed in i h tl cli t i on '.t cf:"t .h: a St nt ·@ § F ~"·qd6t'r• '" i tbout stipe nds. . · · (iv) Ade quat e fi eld s t af f should be provided to t he · ~a ve r s 1 Service Centr es t o ena ble t hem to c0ntac t a nd a ss i s t i n t he t e chn ical i m.;n· .overnen t s of t he Primt1. ry Centres .For this purpo,s o no bl l G cteo::mstra t i ::m uni t s should bo att acned to the VJSCs,

(v) The ~ e comme ndn t ions a ontained in the Re nort of t he Commi tt Ae ao,oin t ed to go into t he ques ti on of r e ar ~anis a ti on of t ~e Government Centr al : ~a v ing I ns ti t ut e , Var ana s i and t he Governne nt 'J'e::ct i l e I ns titute , Madra s, should be i m'!l eme nt od .

(vi) Inst i t u-Lo should al s o •;r ovide for d iver s if j_ ca t ion of t he c our ~ e s , e . g . dyein g , de s i Gnin3 c o\rr ~ e s, i n additi on t o the ~fleav in g cour se .

(vii) The St ate Governments s 0on soring candi­da t e s ei t he r for the l ongt er m or for t he short- te r m should ~uarant ee to em:'Jl oy thos e candida t e s t hey ha~ de~ut e d f or t rain in g 8. fter t he tra ining period.

(v1hi.) Ctl. ndid2.t 0s \vho are t r ined i n the s ll ort-t e r m a ft e :..~ the train i ng :le riod s hould cro to Vle Pa ttGrn Ha king F2ctorie s , ~h i ch should be r e.de s ign D. t ed ns Sta t e L~ v e l Tr a in ing Centres fr om wher e t he 1movled ge 2.nd t:; XDerience ga i ned could be di r;se minat ec1 to t he \Jen v P- r s a t l a rge intba t . 0a r ticul a r a r na or Rta te .

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III. negar di ng the subject of dyeing and other processing . aspects of handloom textiles, it is r ec or.1me nded that:

(i) ~ctive measures should be taken by all the States concerned to utilise the full capacity of bleaching and calendering ~l~nts already inst alled by processing if necessary cloth produced by \IJeavers outside the Cooperative fold.

(ii) Plants which have been sanctioned and which have not yet bee n fully set up should be inst alled and worked wit hout any f urther delay.

(iii) The question of inst allation of add~tional calenderin::; and bleaching units should be considered only after taking adequate steps to ensure full utilisation of existing c .J.pacities .

I n the c ase of Assam State 9 however, one calender in.~ pl ant may be perni tted to be set up at Gauhat i to meet thtJ requirements of ;J ti .:::L handloom cloth.

(iv) For th e fuller utilis ation of the exis ting plants, Stnte Governments may exarnj_ne the feas ibility of attaching :rarn dyeing and bleaching units as an adjunct to the calendur ing pl ant working partially •

(v) A .3 creen printing unit should be attached to the bleach ing and calendering units for improved marketability of bleached cloth.

(v i ) For efficient and economic running , the size of the dye house s to be set up for the futur e should have a minimum capacity of 1,000 lbs. a day.

(vii) Expansion of capacities in the existing dye houses granted under the Cess Fund Scheme may be allowed on merits.

(viii) There is an urgent need f or the .setting up .. of modern dye houses to undertake development c:.nd rese.arch-Work-~­in respect of dyeing and finishing of silk and other like ·fibres. T o beg in with, such dye-houses may be started in Varanasi, C3lcutta and Banga lore .

(ix) ~ll dye houses should be equipped fully and adequately . nd any advice required in this connection should be render~d by t he Weavers' Service Centres.

(x ) Th e Weave rs• Servic e Centres should be adequately equipped "Ji~h st anda.r d Tes ting 1~pplianc e s for the assessp1ent of fabrics qualities, and colour char ac teristics. ·'

(x i ) Ade1 ua t e and competent staff for field \vork as well as test ing in t he Heavers• Service Centres should be fully posit i oned.

IV. On t he subj ect of Quality Control and Export Promotion, :Lt is recommended that _.~ . ···c. <Ls:

(i) Problem~ of quality control at all l evels of production is important. Handloom Board should undert ake an study of the subject.

The early

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Spocification Standards, Shade•Cards, Technical Advice to achieve quality should all bo f orwulated and made ava ilable to th o pr oduction units liSY Weavers 1 Servic \.: Centro s as and 1-Jhen re quired.

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(iii) Efforts should be made to ascertain the demand for special typos of handloom cloths for export markets by sending out delegations abroad.

(iv)

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Export oriented looms should all be provided wl.th attnchments which would enable f abrics to be produced in p:[..oo~.engths exceeding 40 yards as demande~ by Importing Ho uses in foreign ma rkets •

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