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WITH some trepidation,we abandon our carand driver to travelovernight by regulartrain from Agra toVaranasi and then on toDelhi.To test the diffe-rence, we’re travellingsecond class for ourfirst leg of the journeyand first class on thenext leg.Our tickets havebeen booked and paidfor in advance, takingthe hard work out ofstanding in line andfiguring out whichticket to buy.We’re grateful for thecompany of our localguide, Dinesh, whoensures we find theright platform.The train is late. Wesettle in on the plat-form for several hours,watching packed trainscome and go.We peer into sleep-ing cars with bed plat-forms seemingly inchesapart, louvred andbarred windows openfor the breeze.Is that second class?Surely it can’t be first?Our faces mustreflect our thoughts.Dinesh explains thisis sleeper class, theway most Indians travellong-distance, incrowded open planberths, no beddingprovided.When our train ar-rives, our second classsleeping berths are inair-conditioned carriag-es with sheets, pillowsand curtained privacy.The carriage is open-plan with berths inbays of four.Ours are in a bay oftwo, aligned with thecorridor, which giveseven greater privacy.It is clean and morecomfortable than we’veexpected (as are thetoilets).First class offers acabin for four, withleatherette bunks.In the morning, wewatch green fields goby as rural Uttar Pra-desh awakes.Chai-wallahs patrolthe corridors, chanting“chai-ee” and dis-pensing hot sweet tea.There are no restau-rant cars on IndianRailways, but you canbuy a cheap and basicmeal – dahl, naanbread, rice and a mildchicken curry (or avegetarian option).

❚ For more, go towww.indianrail.gov.in

Traintrip apleasantsurprise

WE plunge into India – it’sthe only way. Crowdedand chaotic, it is anassault on the senses; a

cacophony of shouting, laughter,music and life, painted in brilliantjewel hues and with a sense of“anything can happen”.My travelling companion and Imake a pact: we will go with theflow, refuse to get frazzled and takewhatever comes our way.It proves a good rule in India,

where things can veer from theplanned path at times.In Delhi, we meet our driver.Mr Brij is a good-humoured 30-something who is at our disposal,giving us flexibility to go where wewant at any time.We have booked an “independent”but off-the-shelf tour with IntrepidTravel taking in Delhi, Agra andRajasthan, with local guides in eachnew city.It’s ideal for any traveller to Indiawho is nervous about dealing with itall “on-the-spot”.Old and New Delhi have their ownpersonalities and there is much tosee if you can tear yourself away

from the bustle and bargains of thebazaars.The highlights here are the archi-tectural marvels of the Red Fort,which was built by the EmperorShah Jehan (who also built the TajMahal).There’s also the Jama Masjidmosque, the Laxmi Narayn Temple,Qutb Minar, a 72m-tall tower datingback to the 13th century, and theMughal-built Humayun’s Tomb.New Delhi, with its wide boule-vards and formal parks, has manyreminders of colonial rule includingthe magnificent Parliament Build-ing, the Rashtrapati Bhawan, oncethe residence of the British viceroysand now the presidential palace, andthe majestic India Gate, a memorialto Indian soldiers killed in WorldWar I.We also join sombre pilgrimspaying homage at the grave of Mah-atma Ghandi.As we hit the open road on a five-hour drive to Jaipur, Mr Brij exp-lains that driving in India is a matterof “good brakes, good horn and goodluck” – happily demonstrating thefirst two as he talks.“There are road rules, but we areall free,” he says, as if in explanation

of anything that is to come.Several times, we close our eyes

and hope for the best.The capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur is

the “pink city”.The highlight, in the centre of

town, is the elegant Palace of theWinds with its honeycombed sand-stone windows, from which thewomen of the royal family oncewatched life go by below them.We rise early to take an elephant

ride up the hill to the stunning Am-ber Fort.Numbers are restricted to 400

daily, and we’re keen not to missout. The fort, a wonderful example ofRajput architecture, perches abovethe Maota Lake, its sheer walls androck face ensuring good defences.Alighting from our painted ele-

phant, we wander the halls andchambers of the fort.One of the most spectacular areas

is the sparkling Sheesh Mahal, itswalls a mosaic of tiny mirrors.Reluctantly, we leave Jaipur, com-

forted by the knowledge that evengreater joys are in store.Next morning, we stand transfixed

before one of the greatest wondersof the world: the Taj Mahal.Light plays on the dazzling white

marble, a monument to love built bythe Emperor Shah Jehan for hisbeloved queen Mumtaz Mahal.The overnight train from Agra

(see story, right) takes us to theancient holy city of Varanasi.We wander the maze of twisting

alleyways in the old city and take arow-boat on the Ganges.Cremation fires burn along the

shore, pilgrims seeking eternalabsolution dip their bodies in theholy river water at bathing ghats,and we are silenced by a body float-ing by.This is the place that many Hin-

dus come to die, for they believe thatanyone who dies in Varanasi, on thebanks of the river of life, attainsinstant enlightenment.Like all of India, it is a place unlike

any other I have visited.

The colour and movement of India:(top) A street procession inRajathan; (above left) the QutbMinar tower in Delhi dates back tothe 13th century; (above right) awoman pays homage at the tomb ofMahatma Ghandi; (right) a colourfulgentleman from Rajastani; (farright) the majesty of the Taj Mahal.

Photos: Lee Mylne

Go with Indian flowThere’s little else to do in this land of surprises other than sitback, relax and enjoy the ridewherever it might take you

GETTING THERE❚ Intrepid Travel’s eight-day GoldenTriangle and Varanasi independenttour costs from $1330 per persontwin share, includingaccommodation, breakfasts,transfers and overnight train trip.Price does not include airfares.❚ For more, go towww.intrepidtravel.com.au❚ Jet Airways offers daily code shareon QF services from Sydney,Melbourne, Brisbane and Perthto/from Singapore.From Singapore, Jet Airwaysoperates its own services to/fromMadras/Delhi and Mumbai.Australians need a visa to visit India.❚ For more on the country, go towww.incredibleindia.org orwww.indiatourism.com.au

“Next morning, we stand transfixed before one of thegreatest wonders of the world: the Taj Mahal.”

By LEE MYLNE

User: kate_webber Time: 08-09-2009 12:08 Product: SCN PubDate: .Bank Zone: All Edition: Main Page: de_aug_p4 Color: CMYK