george washington’s new york · patriot. he allowed the sons of liberty to convene here as they...
TRANSCRIPT
George Washington’s
New York
Offi cial Walking Tour
How England’s Treasured Colony
Became the Capital of a New Nation
Walking Tour Stops
1 Castle Clinton/The Battery
2 Bowling Green
3 Fraunces Tavern
4 Stone Street
5 Trinity Church
6 St. Paul’s Chapel/City Hall Park
7 Federal Hall
This self-guided tour begins with the battery
fortifications that protected the strategic
harbor from invasion. It concludes on Wall
Street at Federal Hall, the site of America’s
fi rst capitol building.
There you can enjoy the National Parks
of New York Harbor Visitor Center and take
your photo with the famous statue of
George Washington.
The tour should take about 90 minutes,
including time to see and explore each site.
Map
Tontine Coffee House, N.Y.C., ca. 1797, by Francis Guy. Oil on linen, lined to fi berglass. New-York Historical Society
Take a Walk
Through History
New York City was established by the Dutch on what is perhaps the greatest natural harbor in the world. Then called New Amsterdam, the settlement was ideally positioned for trade, not only across the Atlantic with Europe but also by river to Canada. These lucrative trade routes made the harbor a target as well as a prize.
In 1664, the British captured the Dutch city, and New York became England’s prized colony. Over the years, the British military invested in strong fortifications to protect the harbor city from attack by European rivals, never dreaming when they installed a 100-cannon battery aimed at the harbor mouth that those same cannons would someday be turned on its own colonial subjects during the American Revolution.
This dramatic story will be revealed as you walk the route of this tour and trace George Washington’s path through New York to experience the city’s transformation from colonial treasure to the cradle of revolution and the capital of a new nation.
Imagine the Past
A View of Fort George With the City of New York From the Southwest, circa 1764, by John Carwitham after William Burgis. Hand-colored engraving. New-York Historical Society
A Plan of the City of New-York & its Environs, surveyed in the Winter, 1775, by John Montresor. Private Collection
Tune out the traffic and construction of lower Manhattan and imagine a New York filled with a different type of noise – the bustle of sailors and merchants, the clamor of cargo moving on and off ships and the commotion of commerce in a thriving 18th century port.
Look out at the harbor and imagine the fleet of nearly 500 British war ships and supply vessels which filled it. With over 30,000 soldiers, this was the largest invasion force ever mounted by England, unequalled until D-Day in the 20th century. The battle for New York took place here in August 1776, resulting in a near-disastrous defeat for George Washington’s army. Seven years of occupation followed for the city’s dwindling population.
New York was reborn with Washington’s return and inauguration, as the great general became the first president of the United States, and this became its capital.
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WorldFinancialCenter
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Map courtesy of The Alliance of Downton New York
0 500
Feet
1Castle Clinton/The Battery
6St. Paul’s Chapel/City Hall Park
2Bowling Green
5Trinity Church
7Federal Hall
4Stone Street
3Fraunces Tavern
At the time of the Revolution, The Battery – named for its fierce array of 100 cannons – began at the present-day Staten Island Ferry terminal and extended just to the north of Bowling Green (the next stop on this tour). Together with Fort George, home to the Commander of all British forces in North America, the Battery protected colonial New York from water attack.
Fort George no longer exists, but during an excavation for New York’s subway system, a piece of the original battery wall was found. The oldest remaining structural element in all of Manhattan, this vital piece of history was moved here for display at Castle Clinton.
In 1776, you would be walking on water here at Castle Clinton. The ground beneath your feet is all 19th century landfill. Castle Clinton was completed in 1811 after the storm of revolution had passed. Built as a fortification, it was one of the earliest military undertakings of the new nation. The speed of its construction is a testament to how quickly and effectively America organized its government.
At that time, Castle Clinton was a man-made island connected by a long bridge to the harbor shore. It provided a strategic military presence at the northern edge of New York harbor, which had been protected fi rst by the Dutch and then by the English throughout New York’s colonial history.
A Great Harbor11
Dioramas in the
Visitor Center at
Castle Clinton
National Monument
reveal how the
New York skyline
sprouted as the
city expanded north
in the 19th and
20th centuries. The
1812 diorama
provides a good
sense of the scale
of New York City in
Washington’s day.
Southeast Prospect of the City of New York, 1756.New-York Historical Society
fence remains, enclosing the park. The statue of King George and the fence post crowns were melted into two tons of metal and turned into 42,088 musket balls for George Washington’s Continental Army.
Walk inland through Battery Park to Bowling Green and you will arrive at the ground that originally had been the water’s edge in colonial times. The Battery and its companion fortification, Fort George, were right here. The Fort, the Battery and a barracks one half mile up Broadway at the city’s northern limit, made up the largest military complex in the region.
Bowling Green was a recreation area for the popular sport of lawn bowling. When New York was still a loyal colony in 1770, a statue of King George III was erected approximately where that fountain in Bowling Green Park now stands.
Just six years later, after the Declaration of Independence was read for the first time in New York State in the city Commons (currently City Hall Park), a throng of patriots stormed Bowling Green. They ripped off the royal crowns that decorated the fence posts and tore down the statue of King George. Today, the original iron
The Eruption of
Revolution
The Museum of
the American Indian
in the beautiful
Alexander Hamilton
U.S. Customs House
completed in 1907
occupies the former
site of Fort George.
Across the street, at
1 Broadway, is the
spot where General
George Washington
set up his very fi rst
New York
headquarters in
June 1776.
22
Pulling Down Statue of King George III, New York City, by Johannes Adam Simon Oertal, ca. 1859. Oil on canvas. New-York Historical Society
Reading of the Declaration of Independence at City Hall in Wall Street, 1776, published by A.S. Barnes & Co., 1880 in History of the City of New York Vol. II by Martha J. Lamb. Engraving. Private Collection
plotted against the British government. When British officers came to the tavern to carouse and dine, Fraunces listened closely and relayed their battle plans to George Washington.
In 1783 when the Continental Army was victorious, Washington chose the Tavern’s Long Room as the site to bid farewell to his officers, a speech that has gone down in history for its moving eloquence. In 1789 when New York became America’s first capital, Samuel Fraunces became the newly-elected President Washington’s steward.
A few short blocks away is Fraunces Tavern. On August 23, 1775 tensions were high between the American colonists and the British forces stationed up and down the East Coast. Under the cover of darkness, a group of American rebels, including a young student named Alexander Hamilton, began to dismantle the British cannons at the Battery. When they were discovered, they shot at British boats killing one sailor. In response, the British ship HMS Asia lit up the sky with cannon fire from the harbor. The first cannon ball blasted through the roof of Fraunces Tavern, and this opening salvo of the Revolutionary War in New York earned Fraunces Tavern instant fame.
Fraunces Tavern was a popular spot with both British officers and colonial merchants. Samuel Fraunces, master of the house, was a fervent but undercover patriot. He allowed the Sons of Liberty to convene here as they secretly planned and
Carefully restored,
Fraunces Tavern
provides an
accurate glimpse
of the scale and
architectural style
of colonial New
York. It still operates
as a restaurant and
houses a museum
where you can visit
the Long Room
and see the memoir
that documents
Washington’s
famous farewell
speech.
A Nest of Spies 33
A Midnight Modern Conversation, by unknown artist after William Hogarth, ca. 1780. Engraving. Fraunces Tavern Museum/Sons of the Revolution in the State of New York
Samuel Fraunces, ca.1760. Collection of Fraunces Tavern Museum/Sons of the Revolution in the State of New York
ready to cut the troops off if their escape became known. On August 29, under cover of night, the troops crossed the river in silence. With this brilliant retreat, Washington succeeded in saving the Continental Army to fight another day, but at great cost. The British achieved their strategic objective of capturing New York City, and held it for seven long years.
As you reach the end of Stone Street, look to your right towards the East River. Imagine Washington’s troops as they came ashore undetected and passed through Manhattan to escape. Many historians consider this to be the greatest military retreat of all time.
Stroll through the winding streets that reflect New York’s colonial development to Stone Street, one of the first roads paved with stone in Dutch New York and a treasured reminder of what the city looked like in the 18th century. As you walk the length of the street, now filled with lively outdoor cafes, recall that on July 9, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was read in the Commons and King George’s statue at Bowling Green was toppled.
General George Washington was desperate to hold New York, but the British out-maneuvered him in the Battle of Brooklyn (also known as the Battle of Long Island), the first battle after independence was declared. Washington calculated that his outnumbered troops would have to retreat across the East River to join the rest of the army in Manhattan – or face annihilation. It would be a daring move as the huge British fleet lay at anchor in the harbor,
Unlike Boston and
Philadelphia, much
of the colonial
landscape of New
York was destroyed.
We will discover the
reasons for that as
the tour continues
at Trinity Church.
A Daring Escape44
Washington‘s escape from Brooklyn Heights, by J.C. Armytage; published by Virtue & Co., 1860. Engraving. New-York Historical Society
Several important historical figures from the Revolutionary War are buried in the churchyard, including Alexander Hamilton, the rebel student who had tried to remove the cannon from the Battery and later became Washington’s trusted aide. He served his new country as America’s first Secretary of the Treasury.
As you stand facing the Broadway entrance of Trinity Church, look to the right towards the treetops. They mark the northern boundary of developed New York City in 1776, today’s City Hall Park. Look to your left to the trees in Bowling Green Park –the southernmost point. For all its vital commercial importance, in Washington’s day the city was only a brief walk from one end to the other.
The charred ruin of Trinity Church was replaced in 1846 by this beautiful building that stands before you. Along with the original structure of Trinity Church, much of New York erupted in flames just weeks after Washington retreated to the north with his troops. Washington had proposed burning the city down rather than leave it to the British to occupy. Congress forbade the massive destruction, but somehow the general’s intentions were realized anyway. On September 21, 1776, fire raced up Broadway, across to the west, then toward Trinity Church. It was consumed in minutes.
Originally the main entrance of the church faced the waterfront. From its doors you could see straight across the Hudson River to New Jersey. Its steeple had been the tallest point in New York and a landmark visible from the harbor. When The Burnt Church was rebuilt, the new entrance faced Broadway.
The Great Fire
During the long
British occupation
of the decimated
city, the population
of New York dropped
signifi cantly to only
12,000 people.
Disease, another fi re
in 1778 and the loss
of manpower to
the war emptied the
streets of the once
bustling city.
55
Ruin of Trinity Church, 1780, by John Evers after Thomas Barrow, ca.1841. Color Lithograph. I.N. Phelps Stokes Collection, New York Public Library
But St. Paul’s has sheltered more than presidents and survived more than Revolutionary arson. Just one block away from the now hallowed ground of the former World Trade Center complex, the attacks on September 11th left St. Paul’s Chapel virtually unscathed. During the eight-month relief effort, firefighters, police officers, and construction workers used its sanctuary as a place of refuge and rest. As they slept in its pews, their heavy work belts left deep dents in the 18th century wood. Despite some controversy, it was decided the pews would be restored.
Washington rode down Broadway passing St. Paul’s Chapel when he liberated New York City after seven years of British occupation. Only two blocks north of Trinity Church, St. Paul’s survived the Great Fire thanks to an impromptu bucket brigade. Washington worshiped here before his retreat from the city in 1776, and it was still standing to greet the victorious colonial army after the long years of the Revolutionary War. New York was now an American city.
Six years later, Washington returned to St. Paul’s as president-elect and prayed here on his Inauguration Day in 1789. During the seventeen months of his New York presidency, St. Paul’s served as his family church, and the pew where he and his wife Martha worshipped is on view inside.
A New
American City66
Just up the street is
City Hall Park, once
the city’s Commons.
In 1777, British
barracks, an armory
and a prison for
American soldiers
stood there. That all
changed after
Evacuation Day on
November 25, 1783,
when the British
were forced to leave
New York. Today,
Washington’s
presidential desk is
preserved in the
Governor’s Room of
City Hall.
Evacuation Day & Washington’s Triumphal Entry in New York City, November 25, 1783, published by F.P. and L. Restein, 1879. Chromolithograph. New-York Historical Society
at the intersection of Wall and Broad streets. Dressed in a plain suit of American cloth, Washington stepped out on the second-floor balcony of Federal Hall. The need for a Bible had been forgotten, and someone had to run to a nearby shop to find one. Washington placed his right hand on its pages, and the Governor of New York administered the oath of office. Then, overcome with emotion, he called out to the crowd, “Long live George Washington, President of the United States!”
The Federal Hall of Washington’s day was replaced in 1842 with this building in the Greek Revival style, which served as the U.S. Customs House and Sub-Treasury and is today a National Park Service site. Historical exhibits inside include the iron railing from the original balcony where Washington took the oath of office and the Bible he used.
Federal Hall, formerly the British city hall, became the seat of the new American government. The population of New York doubled from 12,000 to 24,000 within just two years of the war’s end and reconstruction proceeded quickly. The guns at the Battery were removed and the stones from a demolished Fort George became landfill to build a Battery promenade. The most accessible city in America by sea, New York was already filled with inns and taverns when it was chosen as the nation’s capital in 1788.
On April 23, 1789, the president-elect landed at the foot of Wall Street on the East River. Escorted by two marching bands and cheered on by thousands of American citizens, the presidential procession made its way to Cherry Street, the site of the first presidential mansion.
One week later, on April 30th, the cannons at the Battery boomed at dawn, awakening New Yorkers to celebrate Inauguration Day. A large crowd assembled
Birth of a Nation
While making your
way up the steps
of Federal Hall, take
a moment to take
your picture with
the statue of George
Washington. It
marks the exact
height he stood
while taking the
oath of offi ce.
77
First in War, First in Peace and First in the Heart of His Countrymen, Inauguration of Washington, April 30, 1789, from an engraving by Montbaron and Gautschi. Color lithograph. New-York Historical Society
Though New York’s tenure as the nation’s capital lasted a short seventeen months, George and “Lady” Washington enjoyed their time in the most cosmopolitan city in North America. The President often took walks along the water’s edge at the Battery and rode his canary yellow-colored carriage through the cobblestoned streets.
Entertaining was a top priority and Martha Washington held social receptions every Friday evening. Official presidential dinners were grand and the official presidential steward, Sam Fraunces, planned the menu. The former tavern owner took great pride in his new position, but he was fired when he offended Washington’s sense of propriety. He had the audacity to dine on the same food and wine he served the President.
The war had left America a nation in debt and the northern states, including New York, had yet to pay off their overdue credit. On June 20, 1790 Alexander Hamilton visited Thomas Jefferson’s house on Maiden Lane. In what would become
George Washington’s
Presidency
Washington Attends Congress, Wall Street, 1789. Color Engraving. New-York Historical Society
The Republican Court (Lady Washington’s Reception Day), by Daniel Huntington, 1861. Oil on canvas. Brooklyn Museum
known as “the deal,” it was decided the Federal government, not the states, would assume the Revolutionary War debts if, and only if, the national capital was changed to satisfy southern congressmen who wanted a more central location. Hamilton and Jefferson agreed and the capital was moved to Philadelphia for the interim. Ten years later, the capital was moved again to a newly constructed city on the Potomac River – known today as Washington D.C.
In late August, 1790, the President and First Lady left New York as they came, on a barge across the Hudson. Washington would never again see the city he had both lost and liberated.
Visit the National
Parks of New York
Harbor Visitor
Center inside
Federal Hall where
you can learn more
about New York’s
history.
The Conservancy is a non-profi t partner
of the National Parks of New York Harbor.
George Washington’s New York
was produced by the Conservancy with
generous support from The History Channel
and the Alliance for Downtown New York.
With special thanks for use of their collections
National Monuments, Memorials and Historic Sites:
African Burial Ground
Castle Clinton
Federal Hall
Governors Island
Grant’s Tomb
Hamilton Grange
Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island
St. Paul’s Church
Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace
Affi liated site:
Lower Eastside Tenement Museum
Gateway National Recreation Area:
In Brooklyn, NY:
Canarsie Pier
Floyd Bennet Field
In Queens, NY:
Breezy Point
Fort Tilden
Jacob Riis Park
In Brooklyn and Queens, NY:
Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge
In Staten Island, NY:
Great Kills Park
Fort Wadsworth
Miller Field
In Monmouth County, NJ:
Sandy Hook
Fort Hancock
For more information visit
www.nyharborparks.org
National Park ServiceThe National Parks of New York Harbor Conservancy
wishes to thank the National Park Service (NPS) for
assisting in the creation of this walking tour. Established
in 1916, NPS manages 391 park sites across the United
States, including the ten national parks with 23 separate
historic and recreational treasures that make up the
National Parks of New York Harbor. For more information,
visit www.nps.gov/npnh.
Cover image:
George Washington, a
reproduction of an
original by Gilbert Stuart.
New-York Historical
Society
FRAUNCES TAVERN MUSEUM
www.history.com www.DowntownNY.com
Visit all the
National Parks of
New York Harbor