GROWING

APPLES

Brian F. Finnigan, W. Michael Colt and Esmaeil Fallahi

for Local Markets in Cold Climates

The authors

Brian F. Finnigan, UI extension educatorin Bingham County

W. Michael Colt, extension horticulturist,UI Parma Research & Extension Center

Esmaeil Fallahi, fruit physiologist,UI Parma Research & Extension Center

For more information, contact Finniganat the Bingham County Extension office,132 South Shilling Avenue,Blackfoot, Idaho 83221.telephone: (208) 785-8060fax: (208) 785-8062email: bingham@uidaho.edu

Contents

Site considerations 2

What apple cultivars to grow 3

Rootstocks 4

Tree spacing 6

Purchasing and planting trees 7

Tree training systems and pruning 9

Water management 13

Ground cover management 14

Pollinizers 15

Thinning the fruit 15

Fruiting 16

Pest management 16

Preventing winter injury 17

Preventing mouse (vole) damage 18

Harvesting 19

Storage 19

Marketing 20

Summary 20

Apples are the most popular and versatile tree fruit in theUnited States with an annual fresh consumption of about 20pounds per person. Demand for locally grown produce isincreasing, and good apple producers and marketers should beable to develop profitable local enterprises. Small-scale appleproducers in particular have excellent opportunities to growcultivars not readily available in supermarkets, which usuallybuy from large commercial growers and brokers.

Potential growers must first learn how to produce quality fruit.Success will depend largely on choosing favorable establish-ment sites, correct cultivars, and proper rootstocks; payingattention to cultural management; and employing goodmarketing practices.

Several apple orchards in southeastern Idaho were lost ordamaged severely in the past 15 years due to very cold wintertemperatures, which affected nonhardy cultivars androotstocks. However, apple cultivars are available that producequality fruit for local consumption and mature in all but ourharshest short-season areas. Idaho has a number of successfulgrowers in harsh climatic areas outside the traditional commer-cial apple-growing districts.

Several new orchards designed especially for local marketshave been established recently in Idaho’s colder regions.These use various apple cultivars and training and irrigationsystems with differing degrees of success.

The points that follow are basic to the successful establish-ment of a good operation. Consider all of them, as well asadditional information from other sources.

AN EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITY

SITE CONSIDERATIONS Soils

Apple trees prefer soils that are deep,well drained, and relatively free ofcalcareous salts (white soils).Orchards exist on soils with highcalcium levels and pH values greaterthan 7.5; however, lime-induced ironchlorosis is a problem. Even thoughmost roots are in the top 2 feet ofsoil, deeper soils permitting rootingdown to about 4 feet are beneficialfor anchorage and moisture.

Windbreaks

On windy sites windbreaks canreduce fruit damage, facilitatespraying, help prevent limb damageand distortion, and reduce moistureloss. Windbreak trees should bespaced 3 or 4 feet apart in rowsspaced 500 feet apart, or 10 timesthe anticipated height of thewindbreak trees.

Windbreak trees on slopes shouldhave the lower limbs below 4 or 5feet removed to prevent a frostpocket from forming when cold airis trapped as it moves down theslope. A poorly designed windbreaksystem can cause excessive shadingand reduce fruit color and productiv-ity. The first windbreak row shouldbe at least 20 feet from the firstapple row. Trees popular for wind-breaks include Lombardy poplar,hybrid poplar, Siberian elm, andAustrian pine.

SiteSites for apple production shouldhave unobstructed cold air drainagewith at least 2 to 4 percent slopes toreduce frost hazard. Sites with morethan 10 to 12 percent slopes shouldbe avoided as they cause problemsin equipment use. Consider smallcanyons and sites along rivers andstreams where air drainage is good.

Investigate areas for frost pocketsespecially in higher elevation areasabove 2,500 feet where air tempera-tures cool more quickly (figure 1).It is advisable to have an experiencedcommercial grower or horticulturistfamiliar with orchard layout tocheck sites for potential problems.

2

Sites for apple

production should

have unobstructed

cold air drainage

with at least 2 to 4

percent slopes.

WHAT APPLE CULTIVARS TO GROWTable 1 lists cultivars adapted tocold, short-season areas. Thesecultivars have matured successfullyin southeastern Idaho, Michigan, orMinnesota and have survived wintertemperatures of at least -40°F.

The cultivars commonly grown insouthwestern Idaho, Oregon, andWashington are Braeburn, Fuji,Gala, Golden Delicious, GrannySmith, Red Delicious, Rome, andWinesap. These cultivars generallyperform poorly in colder, short-season areas of Idaho. Before tryingnew cultivars in your area it is bestto check with the extension educa-tor at the UI Cooperative ExtensionSystem office in your county.

Frost protection

As blossom buds begin to swell inthe spring, they become susceptibleto cold temperatures. The more thebuds develop, the less cold they willtake. (See Critical Temperatures forBlossom Buds: Apples, listed in thefurther readings section.) Heatingsystems burning oil, propane, orwood pellets may have a place inheating small areas. Overheadsprinkler systems can protect downto 22°F if sufficient water is avail-able. Large fans with gasolineengines or electric motors are usedin many orchards but are expensiveto operate and require approximately$1,000 per acre in investment costs.These systems help protect buds andblossoms when pockets of cold airsettle in an orchard but are muchless effective against cold air massesin cold fronts.

3

Figure 1.Cold air willflow to thelowest pointand willaccumulatewhere drainageis obstructed.

Cold air

▲

Cold air

▲

Frost

Frost

Budagovski 9 or Bud 9

This is a new rootstock with aboutthe same dwarfing effect as M9 butmuch hardier and more adapted tocolder production areas. Bud 9availability is currently limitedbecause of demand, but it is pre-ferred for high production plantingsin colder areas. Staking or wiresupport is required.

M26

Less vigorous than M7 and widelyused in modern high-densityorchards, M26 makes a tree 40 to55 percent of full size, dependingon soil type and depth. It is highlyproductive. Spur-type cultivars andtrees grown on sandy soils areeasily stunted. Extremely sensitiveto drought, M26 rootstock shouldbe irrigated frequently to ensurewater to shallow roots. Plant trees8 to 10 feet apart. Staking or wiresupport is required.

M7

M7 (virus-free selections M7a orM7 EMLA are preferred) producestrees 60 to 70 percent of full size.Not as vigorous as standard-sizerootstock, it is relatively hardy andhighly resistant to collar rot. M7a istolerant of drought conditions butis easily stunted, has a tendency tolean, particularly on windy sites,and prefers heavier soils. M7 is verysensitive to management andhighly productive. Plant trees 10 to15 feet apart in the row (betweentree spacing) or 10 feet apart withspur-type cultivars. M7 requiresstaking on windy sites.

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The rootstock forms the roots and thepart of the tree stem below the graftunion. For eastern Idaho at thepresent, there is limited informationavailable for comparing rootstocks.On colder sites, and on all Idaho sitesabove 4,500 feet in elevation, mulchall rootstocks to prevent root injuryfrom low winter soil temperatures.

ROOTSTOCKS M9

Producing trees about 30 to 40percent of full size, M9 is extremelypopular in western commercial areas.It has brittle roots, is not well adaptedto sandy soils, and any commercialplantings in colder areas should betrellised and mulched.

4

Table 1.Apple cultivars adapted to cold, short-season areas.

Cultivar1 Basic color Disease resistance Estimated harvest

Cortland red late September

Earligold yellow moderate for fire blight August

Regent red rust October

Haralred red fire blight late September

Haralson red striped rust, moderate for fire blight late September

Hazen red fire blight September

Honeycrisp red over yellow late September

Honeygold yellow October

Liberty red scab, rust, fire blight, mildew October

Lodi yellow scab July

Mantet red late July

McIntosh red September

Paulared red October

Redwell red October

Spartan red fire blight, scab, mildew October

State Fair red striped August

Summerred red August

Sweet Sixteen red striped fire blight, scab September

Wealthy red striped fire blight, scab, rust September

Yellow Transparent yellow scab July

1See “Apple Cultivars for Eastern Idaho,” available from the author, for more detailed descriptions of the cultivars listed above.

Usage/notes

fresh, cooking, cider, tart

fresh, cooking, high quality

fresh, cooking, stores well

fresh, cooking, cider

fresh, cider, tart

fresh, cooking, firm, mild

fresh, crisp, stores well

fresh, cooking, sweet

all-purpose, stores well

cooking, fair quality

fresh, high quality

fresh, cooking, tart

all-purpose, good quality

fresh, cooking, mild

all purpose, good quality

fresh, high quality for a summer apple

fresh, makes pink sauce

fresh, cooking, excellent quality

all-purpose, good quality

cooking, poor-fair quality

MM111, MM106

These produce trees 75 to 85 percent offull-size. Trees on these rootstocks withgrafted hardy cultivars have survivedin eastern Idaho. Availability of theserootstocks may be limited, and ourcurrent experience with them is lessthan with the rootstocks discussed above.MM106 is very susceptible to collar rotand damage from early fall freezes.

Antanovka

This is a popular winter hardy rootstockfor commercial plantings. An apple ofRussian origin famous for its hardinessto -50°F, Antanovka has a deep rootsystem and does not sucker. Trees areabout 90 percent of full size on aseedling rootstock.

Seedling (Domestic Apple, also called Standard)

Seedling is well known for generalcompatibility, ease of budding andgrafting, and vigorous growth. Seedcollected from cannery waste produceseedlings that are the most adaptable,most vigorous, and the most capable ofwithstanding neglect or poor soilconditions. Seedlings that are used asrootstocks produce vigorous, rugged,standard, full-size trees. Seedling givesexcellent anchorage and few suckers.Seedling is adaptable to a wide rangeof growing conditions and tolerates wet,dry, poor soil. Today it is used primarilyin combinations with spur-type varietiesfor a smaller tree.

Seedling rootstocks produce trees thatare slower to come into bearing thanones on size-controlling rootstocks,and are not as hardy as Antanovka orBudagovski. Trees on seedlingrootstocks also have great variationsin size. These factors, as well as thelarge size of the trees, are reasons fornot using seedling rootstocks inmodern orchards. Also, yields aregreatly increased in high-densityorchards, pest control is easier onsmall trees, and harvest costs are less.

TREE SPACINGTree spacing depends on the treeapple cultivar-rootstock combination,soil, and management practices.Table 2 shows numbers of trees atvarious spacings and the bushels pertree needed to obtain a productiongoal of 1,000 bushels per acre.

6

Order trees a year

before planting and

have them delivered

in early spring.

Table 2.

Tree spacing, densities, and yields to obtain 1,000 bushels per acre.

Between tree x between row spacing Tree density Yield Rootstocks(feet) (trees/acre) (bushels/tree)

5 x 15 581 1.7 M9, Bud9, M26

6 x 18 403 2.5 M9, Bud9, M26, M7

8 x 18 302 3.4 M6, Bud9, M7

10 x 18 242 4.2 M7, MM111, M106

12 x 20 182 5.4 M7, MM111, Standard

7

PURCHASING AND PLANTING TREESOrder trees a year before planting andhave them delivered in early spring.Trees should be undamaged, notmoldy, straight, and about 4 to 6 feettall (7/16- to 3/4-inch caliper). Smallertrees are often stunted and never dowell. Obtain trees certified to be trueto their name and free of knownviruses and other diseases. Larger treesthat are branched (feathered) aremore expensive but may come intoproduction one year earlier.

Quantities of well-grown nursery treesof the desired cultivars and rootstocksusually need to be ordered at least ayear or two ahead. Trees are about $5to $8 each purchased in bundlequantities plus shipping and handling.Planting costs run $1 to $3 per tree.

Early planting is essential for goodtree growth. Optimum growth occursif trees are planted one month before

bloom, about early April. Root growthbegins at this time when the soiltemperature is about 42°F. The nextflush of root growth occurs afterterminal bud set in late July or Augustand continues until ground freeze.

Planting holes for each tree should beas large or larger than the naturalspread of the bare roots, typically 20to 30 inches wide and 14 to 20 inchesdeep. An auger is very useful fordrilling holes for large numbers oftrees; however, care must be taken notto dig the hole too deep or the treemay settle below the graft union. Thegraft union should be 2 to 4 inchesabove the ground.

Make sure that the hole is moist, notwet, and dug only a few hours beforeplanting to prevent soil drying. Avoiddigging in wet soils to keep fromslicking and compacting the soil,which inhibit root growth.

Use care in protecting the roots of bare-rooted trees from drying winds and cold.Trees are best kept in a water barrel for2 to 24 hours before planting. This alsohelps to rehydrate the roots. Trim longor broken roots before planting.

Install the irrigation system beforeplanting or be sure trees are wellwatered immediately after planting.Irrigation moistens and settles the soilaround the roots. Irrigate trees within24 hours after planting by applyingabout 2 gallons of water to each tree.Take care to prevent trees from settlingwith the graft union below groundsince roots formed from the portiongrafted or budded above the rootstock(scion) will not have the same charac-teristics as the intended rootstock.

After planting, protect tree trunksfrom sunscald by painting up to thefirst branch or 24 to 28 inches withinterior white latex paint diluted 1part paint to 3 parts water.

Fertilizing at planting

At planting many soils are deficientin phosphate. To each hole, addabout 1 cup of 10 percent phosphateas bone meal or 0-45-0. Mix it wellwith soil to avoid direct contactwith the roots. Never add fertilizerscontaining nitrogen or potassium tothe planting hole.

After planting most Idaho soils do notrequire nitrogen (N) fertilizer the firstgrowing season. If the soil is extremelylow in N or very sandy, some fertilizermay be needed. In this case, apply 2 to3 ounces per tree of a fertilizer contain-ing 15 to 30 percent nitrogen. Neverapply nitrogen fertilizer after mid-Juneto a tree of any age because this maystimulate growth late in the season,delaying dormancy and increasing thepossibility of winter injury. (Forfertilization practices after the firstgrowing season see Homeowner’s GuideTo Fruit Tree Fertilization.)

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Table 3.Comparison of central leader and vertical axis training systems.

Characteristic Central leader Vertical axis

Tree height (feet) 12-14 10-14

In-row spacing (feet) 8-10 5-6

Between-row spacing (feet) 15-18 13-15

Trees per acre 250-400 500-700

Rootstocks M7, MM111, MM106 M9, Bud9, M26, M7

Support None or individual stakes Individual stakes or trellis

TREE TRAINING SYSTEMS AND PRUNING

Most orchards are planted using acentral leader system or a high-densityvertical axis system (figure 2, table 3).The first three years of training arevery important for tree development.The following principles apply to thecentral leader system in general andcan be used for most cultivars. Thevertical axis system is similar excepttrees are smaller and tiers of scaffoldbranches are not formed. Rather, mainfruit-bearing branches are evenlydistributed in a pyramid-shaped tree.

Training has three goals:

1. Develop a strong central trunkwith 9 to 13 main scaffoldbranches, well separated in twoto three tiers. Some brancheswill be removed as the treeapproaches maturity.

2. Develop branches with widecrotch angles (45° to 60°) andmany evenly spaced fruitinglaterals of varying lengths.

3. Develop, as soon as possible,a tree with an open, pyramidalform capable of supporting acrop of apples.

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Figure 2.A comparisonof the central leaderand vertical axistraining systems.

3rd tier ▲

2nd tier ▲

1st tier ▲

Central leader Vertical axis

Figure 4.In June of the year of planting, removevigorous shoots that compete with theleader to ensure its dominance.

28"– 34"

Figure 3.A new tree as awhip is headed backto 28 to 34 inches,at a windward bud.

Pruning at planting

1. Head back all new treeswithout limbs (whips) toa bud facing the prevailingwind, 28 to 34 inches abovethe ground (figure 3)

2. Remove all limbs within20 inches of the ground.If wide-angle (45° to 60°)branches are available atplanting time, leave four orfive. Head at 40 inches ifyou have branches.

First growing season pruning

1. When new shoots are 6 to8 inches long, select one ofthe upright-growing shootsas the central leader andremove others that competewith the leader (figure 4).

2. As scaffold branchesdevelop, remove limbs withvery narrow crotch angles.Use spring-type clothespinsor toothpicks early in thegrowing season to spreadpotential scaffold branchesto desired positions if theyappear narrower than 45°to 60° (figure 5).

3. Remove low limbs that willinterfere with the placementof mouse guards. Establishthe first branch 20 to 24inches above the ground.

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prevailing wind

▲ head back

First dormant season pruning

1. Prune after Februaryto avoid exposingwounds to severe coldtemperatures.

2. Select three to fivelower permanentlateral scaffoldbranches, well spacedvertically around thetrunk (about 4 to 6inches apart) andsmaller than the trunkin diameter to form thebottom tier, or scaffold(figure 6).

Figure 5.A clothespin spreads a branch to a wide angle. Attachclothespins when shoots are 4 to 8 inches long, andremove them after 2 to 4 weeks. (Notice that a branch thatcompeted with the leader has been removed at arrow.)

3. If the top of thecentral leader ishigher than 16 to 18inches above theselimbs, cut it to a budon the windward side.Heading back theleader will stiffen itand encourage lateralbranching below thecut. Note that headingis not always necessaryand may cause thecentral leader todevelop a crook andlose its dominance.

Figure 6.Branches A, B, and Care competing withthe leader. A and Care removed, and B isheaded back to ashorter side branch.The first tier has beenestablished below A.

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▲ c

▲ c

▲a

▲

▲b

▲b

▲a

Second growing season pruning

1. Remove all but onevigorous terminal shootfrom each scaffold branch.

2. Spread branches withnarrow angles as describedabove or use 1x1 inchwooden spacers withsharpened nails on bothends for larger or strongerlimbs (figure 7).

Second dormant season pruning

1. From the side branchesthat have developed abovethe first scaffold, select twoor three additional scaffoldbranches on the leader.These will form the secondtier, or scaffold. Againthese should be wide angledand spaced vertically about4 to 6 inches apart.

2. Remove all but oneupright shoot to maintaina central leader.

3. The scaffold branchesselected at the firstdormant pruning will nowhave branches. Save theseand the short twigs andspurs that develop on theinside of the tree andremove those that competewith the scaffold branches.

Third dormant season pruning

This is a repeat of the previousyear’s pruning. A third tier ofscaffold branches is selected abovethe second tier. The leader ismaintained, as are short twigs andspurs for fruiting.You can learn moredetail about pruning, as well asother training options, by contact-ing the UI Cooperative ExtensionSystem office in your county and byreferring to the publications listedunder “Further Readings.”

12

Figure 7.Limb spreaders improvecrotch angles, reduce limbcompetition with thecentral leader, strengthenlimb attachment, andincrease flower budformation. Here 1/2-inchdowels serve as spreaders.

13

WATER MANAGEMENTIrrigation is a must for quality fruitand good yields in parts of Idaho thatdo not have adequate rainfall. Theirrigation frequency and desiredmoisture level at each foot of depthchanges with tree age and groundcover. It also changes with the season,water-holding capacity of the soil, andwind factors. Young trees, for ex-ample, are easily moisture stressed,which stops new growth.

In general, orchards need about 20 to30 inches of water total per season,which requires irrigation in mostareas. In northern Idaho and areas ofhigh rainfall, irrigation may not berequired. Check soil moisturefrequently and do not allow theavailable soil moisture (ASM) to drop

below 50 percent. Evapotranspirationrates can exceed 0.35 inch per daydepending on temperature, humidity,and solar and wind conditions, whichmeans as much as 2 to 3 inches ofwater per week may have to appliedin summer months.

A well-designed, permanent irriga-tion system is best. While theinvestment cost is greater for apermanent system, the penalty for apoor system can be costly reducedtree growth. A sprinkler system isbetter adapted to lighter, sandy soils.Mini sprinklers with low pressure andvolume are being used very success-fully and give better water distribu-tion on some soils than drip systems.They also allow for the growing ofcover crops in the row center.

GROUND COVER MANAGEMENTWeed control is essential to properlydevelop young trees. A combinationof cultivation and herbicides cankeep weeds away from sensitiveyoung trees. Clean cultivation 4 to6 feet around tree trunks is recom-mended (figure 8). Avoid cultivationdeeper than 2 or 3 inches to preventroot damage.

Herbicides are generally not recom-mended in the first year. Use trunkguards during spraying if herbicidesare necessary. Herbicides can damageyoung trees with tender bark.

A ground cover between rows reducessoil compaction, keeps dust down, andhelps cool the orchard in the summer.Grass sod cover crops are best.

Creeping red fescue has been the mostuniversally successful grass cover. Ithas a shallow root system, which isless competitive with tree roots, and ittakes shade better than most grasses.Other grasses to consider are blue-grass, fescues, and perennial ryegrass.Ground covers of annual small grainsmay be required the first 2 years inorder to hold the soil before perma-nent grass is seeded. Do not useclovers or other blooming groundcovers because they compete with theapples for bee pollination. Cover cropswill require mowing, fertilization, and,in most areas, irrigation water.

Figure 8.A well laid outyoung orchard withgood ground cover.

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POLLINIZERSMost small orchards for localmarket production will consist ofmultiple cultivars, which reducesthe need for planting specialpollinizers. Time of blooming canbe quite different for differentcultivars, however. Be sure toprovide good bloom overlap.

Solid blocks of a single cultivar,strain, and rootstock are preferredfor ease of management. Crabapplecultivars are being used successfullyfor pollination in large, singlecultivar blocks.

Interplant pollinizers every 60 feetof row or closer. These trees can betrained to a pillar shape to reducethe space they take up in the row.

Bees are needed for pollination.In young trees 3 to 4 years old,place two bee hives per acre.Trees 5 to 7 years old may requireonly one hive. When trees are infull bearing, one-half hive peracre is adequate because a higherpercentage of the bees from eachhive will stay in the orchardduring bloom.

Move bees in just as bloom isbeginning. Choose spots protectedfrom wind. Always protect beesfrom toxic sprays by removing hivesduring spraying or avoid sprayingduring the pollination period.

THINNING THE FRUITApple trees will generally setmore fruit than they are capableof successfully carrying to maturityor develop to commercial sizes.Removing excess fruit helpsimprove the color and size of theremaining apples. Failure toremove excess fruit decreases theformation of flower buds for thefollowing year, which decreasesthe subsequent year’s crop poten-tial and leads to biennial bearing.

The earlier thinning is com-pleted, the more effective it willbe. Most of the buds for nextyear’s flowers are initiated duringa 4- to 6- week period after fullbloom. In commercial appleproduction areas chemicalthinning is practiced routinely.It is an option for the smallproducer but requires additionalknowledge and experience.

To thin by hand, leave one appleper cluster and space the remainingapples about 4 to 6 inches apart.Remove the fruit from the stemwithout damaging the spur or otherapples on the spur. Hold the stembetween thumb and forefinger andpush the fruit from the stem withthe other fingers (figure 9).

15

PEST MANAGEMENTProducers of quality fruit must beaware of several insect pests anddiseases that may require controlmeasures every year.

Complete pest management programsare available in other publications.What follows here is a list of the mostcommon pests and the need forcontrol measures.

FRUITINGYoung orchards will often producesome fruit the third or fourth seasondepending on the rootstock,cultivar, initial branching, andtraining system. Crops in the fifthyear can range from 200 to 500bushels per acre in high-densitysystems, enough to cover growingcosts. By the sixth or seventhseason, the high-density orchardshould produce 600 to 900 bushelsper acre. Yields depend on cultivar,number of trees per acre, pruning,and training. Yields in manynontraditional and short-seasonareas are yet to be determined undercommercial management systems.

Figure 9.To thin fruit, holdthe stem betweenthumb and forefingerand push the fruitfrom the stem withthe other fingers.

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PREVENTING WINTER INJURYPlanting hardy cultivars reduceslosses from winter injury. TheMalling rootstocks (M7, M26, etc.)generally will be injured when roottemperatures drop to about 20°F. Theroots of hardy rootstocks such asAntanovka can withstand tempera-tures as low as 14°F without injury.

To prevent injury it is advisableto mulch at least for the winter(November to March) with straw orwood chips 4 to 6 inches deep fromtrunk to dripline. Mulching may notbe needed in some regions such asnorthern Idaho, the Lewiston area,and southwestern Idaho where soilsdo not freeze as deep as in south-eastern Idaho. If you use mulches,be aware of the increased potentialfor mouse damage. Thoroughwatering before the ground freezesis important in preventing winterinjury in all areas.

To prevent injury it

is advisable to mulch

at least for the winter

with straw or wood chips

4 to 6 inches deep from

trunk to dripline.

Insects

CODLING MOTH (worm in the apple)—Control needed every year or severefruit loss will occur.

LEAF ROLLERS—Usually controlled bycodling moth sprays; however, insome years sprays before bloom maybe needed.

APHIDS—Spray as needed. Dormantoil sprays kill overwintering eggs.

SPIDER MITES—Spray as needed.Dormant sprays help reducepopulations.

APPLE MAGGOT—Very serious innorthern Idaho. Spray as neededduring the summer.

Diseases

POWDERY MILDEW—Can be severesome years on some cultivars.

FIRE BLIGHT—Can be severe someyears and difficult to control.

SCAB—Varies with cultivar andlocation. If growing in scab proneareas (areas of high rainfall), selectresistant cultivars (table 1).

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PREVENTING MOUSE (VOLE) DAMAGEYoung trees must be protected fromdamage by meadow voles or mice.These rodents can girdle the trunk byeating the tender new bark and thecambium layer underneath, effec-tively preventing translocation ofnutrients and killing the tree. Thebest protection is a cylinder ofhardware cloth 4 to 8 inches indiameter and 20 to 30 inches high.

Figure 10.Hardware cloth mouseguards should be 20 to 30inches high and extendinto the soil 2 to 4 inches.

The cylinder should encircle thetrunk and extend into the soil 2 to 4inches. One-eighth- to 1/4-inchmesh is necessary to exclude mice(figure 10). Poison baits may beused in addition to screens.

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HARVESTINGPicking fruit at the optimum time isimportant for best quality but may behard to do without experience withspecific cultivars. Fruit picked toosoon does not store well and neverdevelops full flavor. Fruit picked toolate also does not store well and issusceptible to dropping, water core,and frost damage.

Harvest maturity indicators includeapple firmness and sugar content. Forsmall producers, simply tasting thefruit and noting when the starcheschange to sugars is a good way todetermine when to pick.

When picking apples it is important toavoid bruising, breaking the skin, orexposing the fruit to extreme heat orcold. Leave the stem attached to theapple by removing the apple from thespur by pushing upward while rotatingthe fruit. On some long-stemmedcultivars, it may be necessary to placethe index finger firmly at the point ofattachment of the stem and spur toprevent the spur from breaking. Appleswith the stem attached keep longerand avoid rot where the stem attaches.

Apples for local markets can be pickeddirectly into bushel boxes and sold“field run” or sorted to general size andquality. Remove misshapen, small, andoff-colored fruits for cider or sell themas culls. Discard wormy, bird-damaged,or insect-damaged fruit.

STORAGEMany apple cultivars will keep for1 to 3 months under cold storage.Without proper storage some willlast only days or a few weeks.Diseased, bruised, or insect-damaged apples should be sorted,stored separately, and used first ordiscarded. Do not mix windfallswith fresh-picked fruit because wind-falls give off more ethylene gas,which hastens the ripening processand decreases quality.

Apples will store longer if they arecooled immediately after harvest.Most cultivars such as Delicious,Haralson, Honeycrisp, Jonathan,and Wealthy store best at 30° to32°F. McIntosh cultivars andMcIntosh types are stored best at36° to 38°F. Humidity in the 80 to85 percent range is important forlong storage periods.

Some small-scale producers areforming cooperatives for storing afew thousand bushels of fruit in asingle facility that can maintainproper conditions. Storing qualityfruit in perforated plastic bags canhelp apples keep longer andfacilitate marketing.

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MARKETINGSuccessful marketing of your fruitdepends on having quality fruit, goodplanning, and accurate knowledge ofyour potential consumers. Here are somepoints that will help:

1. Raise three to five differentcultivars that mature at differenttimes such as August, September,and October.

2. Have both yellow and red cultivars.3. Include one or two cultivars that

store for 2 to 3 months.4. Sort apples by quality and color.

Be sure customers know the qualitythey are buying. There is a marketfor culls or poor-quality fruit, butthese must be kept separate fromhigh-quality fruit.

5. Vary container sizes from 1 bushelbaskets to 5- to 10-pound plasticbags. Include 1/2- and 1/3-bushelcontainers.

6. Develop a customer list and informthem about your crop. Take pre-harvest orders.

7. Emphasize return sales.

Other good marketing and advertisinginformation is available in publicationslisted in the further readings section.

SUMMARYBe aware of potential markets and beable to market your product throughseveral means. Cultivars normallyavailable and familiar to the public maynot be the best choices. A quality

product is essential. Quality fruitproduction comes first by knowing thecharacteristics of your cultivars and theclimate extremes where you expect togrow them. The orchard will be inproduction for 10 or more years andmust be able to survive occasional severecold weather episodes without beingkilled or injured.

A number of insects and diseases canseverely lower fruit quality and damagetree structure. Know the potential forthese problems and the controlmeasures available.

Intensive training systems now used infruit-growing districts are well suitedfor small-acre production. However,producers must be trained in them andexpect to gain experience before takingfull advantage of them.Proper handlingof fruit during harvest and in storage iscritical for quality fruit production.New producers should visit establishedorchards and facilities to become familiarwith necessary modern techniques.

All good producers continually attendworkshops and educational programsprovided by the Cooperative ExtensionSystem, industry, and various organiza-tions. Modern fruit production isdynamic, particularly in the areas of newcultivars, training systems, pest control,and marketing. We encourage everyoneinterested in fruit production tocontinually avail themselves of theseongoing programs.

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FURTHER READINGS

PUBLICATIONS FROM THE UNIVERSITY OF IDAHO

Agricultural PublicationsUniversity of IdahoMoscow, ID 83844-2240Fax (208) 885-4648For information, call (208) 885-7982http://info.ag.uidaho.edu

Apple Scab. CIS 690, Order #176, 25¢

Grafting and Budding Plants to Propagate, Topwork, Repair. PNW 496, Order #988, $2.50

Homeowner’s Guide to Fruit Tree Fertilization. CIS 866, Order #310, 35¢

Identifying Domestic Markets: Indirect Marketing of Produce. CIS 98, Order#425, 50¢

Insect Control for Apple and Pears in the Home Orchard. CIS 603, Order #132, $1.00

Marketing Your Produce Directly to Consumers. EXT 741, Order #620, $1.50

Meadow Mouse Control in Tree Fruit Orchards. PNW 154, Order #745, 25¢

1999 PNW Plant Disease Control Handbook. Order #1088, $25 (revised annually)

1999 PNW Insect Control Handbook. Order #1087, $25 (revised annually)

Pruning Apple Trees in Commercial Orchards. PNW 404, Order #918, $1.00

Specialty Farming in Idaho: Is It for Me? EXT 743, Order #622, $1.00

Specialty Farming in Idaho: Selecting a Site. EXT 744, Order #623, $1.00

Training and Pruning Your Home Orchard. PNW 404, Order #915, $1.00

Weed Control in Tree Fruits. CIS 692, Order #178, 25¢

Why Home Fruit Trees Die. CIS 776, Order #231, 25¢

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Critical Temperatures for Blossom Buds: Apples. Washington State UniversityEB0913, $1.00. Order from Bulletins Office: 800-723-1763.

Growing Fruit in the Upper Midwest by Don Gordon,University of Minnesota Press, Minneapolis.

Issued in furtherance of cooperative Extension work in agriculture and home economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, incooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, LeRoy D. Luft, Director of Cooperative Extension System, University ofIdaho, Moscow, Idaho 83844. The University of Idaho provides equal opportunity in education and employment on the basis ofrace, color, religion, national origin, gender, age, disability, or status as a Vietnam-era veteran, as required by state and federal laws.

BUL 820 Published February 2000 $2.50

Don’t let a short growing season and long, cold winter keepyou from growing apples commercially! Hardy apple varietiesand rootstocks are now widely available. Markets for theseapples are promising, as consumers increasingly hanker fortasty, locally grown produce and unusual apple varieties.

Growing Apples for Local Markets in Cold Climatesoffers the basics you need to get started withyour own small-scale commercial apple orchard.Inside, you’ll find

•A description of hardy rootstocks

•A list of hardy, short-season apple varietiesand their culinary attributes

•The basics of training and pruning

•Ways to keep your orchard healthy over winter

•Management practices that work

•Marketing tips

•Sources of additional information, and more

Home orchardists will want this information, too!

Author Brian Finnigan,

extension educator in

Bingham County,

shares the insights he

has gained in 20 years

of advising and learning

from successful apple

growers in the harsh,

high-elevation

environment of

southeastern Idaho.

Authors Michael Colt,

a tree fruit horticultur-

ist, and Esmaeil Fallahi,

a tree fruit physiologist,

lead extension programs

and conduct research at

the UI Parma Research

& Extension Center.