frommer's montreal and quebec city 2011

Montréal &Québec City 2011

2 MONTREAL & QUEBEC CITY IN DEPTH 7

Montréal & Québec City Today 8

Looking Back at Montréal & Québec City 9

MARCH OF THE LANGUAGE POLICE (OR LA POLICE DE LANGUE) 12

Montréal & Québec City’s Art & Architecture 14

Montréal & Québec City in Popular Culture 17

Eating & Drinking in Montréal & Québec City 18

CONTENTS List of Maps vii

1 THE BEST OF MONTREAL &

QUEBEC CITY 1

Unforgettable Travel Experiences 1

The Best Splurge Hotels 2

The Best Moderately Priced Hotels 3

The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences 3

The Best Museums 4

The Best Outdoor Activities 5

The Best Activities for Families 5

The Best of Montréal & Québec City Online 6

A NOTE ABOUT ENGLISH AND FRENCH IN THIS BOOK 6

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO MONTREAL &

QUEBEC CITY 21

When to Go 22

Entry Requirements 26

Getting to Montréal & Québec City 28

Money & Costs 32

Staying Healthy 33

Crime & Safety 34

Specialized Travel Resources 34

Responsible Tourism 36GENERAL RESOURCES FOR RESPONSIBLE

TRAVEL 37

Special Interest & Escorted Trips 38

Staying Connected 40

Tips on Accommodations 41WHAT’S IN A NAME? UNDERSTANDING

AFFILIATIONS 42

02_679692-ftoc.indd iii02_679692-ftoc.indd iii 9/28/10 1:32 PM9/28/10 1:32 PM

COPYRIG

HTED M

ATERIAL

Best Hotel Bets 65

Centre Ville/Downtown 68KEEP UP YOUR WORKOUT SCHEDULE 70

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal) 73

ROOM WITHOUT A VIEW, PLEASE 73

LOCAL PLAYERS: THE ANTONOPOULOS GROUP 75

Plateau Mont-Royal 79

6 WHERE TO STAY IN MONTREAL 64

Orientation 54

Getting There and Getting Around 59

MONTREAL: WHERE THE SUN RISES IN THE SOUTH 56

JULY 1: CITYWIDE MOVING DAY 63

5 GETTING TO KNOW MONTREAL 54

THE BEST OF MONTREAL IN 1 DAY 43

THE BEST OF MONTREAL IN 2 DAYS 46

THE BEST OF MONTREAL IN 3 DAYS 47

THE BEST OF QUEBEC CITY IN 1 DAY 48

THE BEST OF QUEBEC CITY IN 2 DAYS 49

THE BEST OF QUEBEC CITY IN 3 DAYS 52

4 SUGGESTED MONTREAL &

QUEBEC CITY ITINERARIES 43

7 WHERE TO DINE IN MONTREAL 80

Best Dining Bets 81

Restaurants by Cuisine 82

Centre Ville/Downtown 84POUTINE, SMOKED MEAT & THE WORLD’S

BEST BAGELS 88

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal) 89FINDING A WARM CORNER AFTER

A SNOWSTORM 95

Plateau Mont-Royal 96

Mile End/Avenue Laurier 101

Quartier Latin 103

Outer Districts 103LATE-NIGHT BITES 104

8 EXPLORING MONTREAL 105

Top Attractions 105MONEY SAVERS 108

CIRQUE DU SOLEIL: MONTREAL’S HOMETOWN CIRCUS 112

More Attractions 114DON’T BE SHY, GIVE BIXI A TRY 117

Especially for Kids 119

Special-Interest Sightseeing 121

Organized Tours 123

Spectator Sports 125

Outdoor Activities 126

9 MONTREAL STROLLS 129

WALKING TOUR 1 VIEUX-MONTREAL 129

WALKING TOUR 2: DOWNTOWN 138

WALKING TOUR 3: PLATEAU MONT-ROYAL 142

WALKING TOUR 4: PARC DU MONT-ROYAL 147

02_679692-ftoc.indd iv02_679692-ftoc.indd iv 9/28/10 1:32 PM9/28/10 1:32 PM

North into the Laurentians (Laurentides) 177

ON THE ROAD: A QUICK GUIDE 180

BIKER’S PARADISE: THE 4,000KM ROUTE VERTE 183

NAME THAT TREMBLANT! 185

WITH APOLOGIES TO MONTY PYTHON: “SPA, SPA, SPA, SPA . . . ” 188

Cantons-de-l’Est 194MAPLE HEAVEN IN CABANES A SUCRE 200

12 SIDE TRIPS FROM MONTREAL 176

The Performing Arts 164

Music & Dance Clubs 167LATE NIGHT MONTREAL, WHEN THE STREET

FESTIVALS SUBSIDE 169

Bars 171

More Entertainment 174

11 MONTREAL AFTER DARK 163

The Shopping Scene 152 Shopping from A to Z 154

10 MONTREAL SHOPPING 152

13 GETTING TO KNOW QUEBEC CITY 208

Orientation 209 Getting Around 213

14 WHERE TO STAY IN QUEBEC CITY 215

Best Hotel Bets 216

Vieux-Quebec: Haute-Ville (Upper Town) 216

Vieux-Quebec: Basse-Ville (Lower Town)/Vieux-Port 222

Parliament Hill (on or Near Grande-Allee) 224

QUEBEC’S ICE HOTEL: THE COLDEST RECEPTION IN TOWN 225

St-Roch 226

Just Outside the City 227

15 WHERE TO DINE IN QUEBEC CITY 228

Best Dining Bets 228FOR A BARGAIN, LOOK FOR THE TABLE

D’HOTE 229

Restaurants by Cuisine 230

Vieux-Quebec: Haute-Ville (Upper Town) 231

Vieux-Quebec: Basse-Ville (Lower Town)/Vieux-Port 234

EATING VEGETARIAN IN A LAND THAT’S DEFINITIVELY NOT 236

Parliament Hill (on or Near Grande-Allee) 238

St-Roch 239

02_679692-ftoc.indd v02_679692-ftoc.indd v 9/28/10 1:32 PM9/28/10 1:32 PM

The Shopping Scene 269 Shopping from A to Z 270

18 QUEBEC CITY SHOPPING 269

WALKING TOUR 1: UPPER TOWN (VIEUX-QUEBEC: HAUTE-VILLE) 254

WALKING TOUR 2: LOWER TOWN (VIEUX-QUEBEC: BASSE-VILLE & VIEUX-PORT) 263

17 QUEBEC CITY STROLLS 254

The Top Attractions 240

More Attractions 245

Especially for Kids 249

Organized Tours 250

Spectator Sports 251

Outdoor Activities 251

16 EXPLORING QUEBEC CITY 240

19 QUEBEC CITY AFTER DARK 275

The Performing Arts 275

The Club & Music Scene 276

Bars 277

20 SIDE TRIPS FROM QUEBEC CITY 279

Ile d’Orléans 279AN IMPORTANT NAVIGATIONAL NOTE 282

ECONOMUSEUMS: A LOCAL (TOURISM) TRADITION 283

Montmorency Falls 286

Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré 287

Canyon Ste-Anne, Ste-Anne Falls & Parc Mont Ste-Anne 288

Central Charlevoix: Baie-St-Paul, St-Irenee & La Malbaie 290

Upper Charlevoix: St-Simeon, Baie Ste-Catherine & Tadoussac 295

21 FAST FACTS 298

Fast Facts: Montréal & Québec City 298

Airline Websites 301

Index 302Accommodations Index 309 Restaurant Index 310

02_679692-ftoc.indd vi02_679692-ftoc.indd vi 9/28/10 1:32 PM9/28/10 1:32 PM

LIST OF MAPS

Suggested Montréal Itineraries�44

Suggested Québec City Itineraries�50

Montréal Métro�61

Where to Stay in Montréal�66

Where to Dine in Downtown Montréal, Pla-teau Mont-Royal & Mile End�87

Where to Dine in Vieux-Montréal�91

Where to Dine in Plateau Mont-Royal & Mile End�97

Montréal Attractions�106

Walking Tour 1: Vieux-Montréal�131

Walking Tour: Downtown Montréal�139

Walking Tour: Plateau Mont-Royal�143

Walking Tour: Parc du Mont-Royal�149

The Laurentians (Laurentides)�179

Cantons-de-l’Est�195

Québec City Orientation�210

Where to Stay in Québec City�218

Where to Dine in Québec City�232

Québec City Attractions�242

Walking Tour: Upper Town�256

Walking Tour: Lower Town�265

Québec City Environs�281

LIST OF MAPS

02_679692-ftoc.indd vii02_679692-ftoc.indd vii 9/28/10 1:32 PM9/28/10 1:32 PM

1THE BEST OF MONTREAL & QUEBEC CITY

If the province of Québec had a tagline, it could be: “Any

excuse for a party.” An enormous joie de vivre pervades

the way that Montréal and Québec City go about their

business. Their calendars are packed with festivals and

events that bring out both locals and guests from around

the world year-round.

You’ll also find that Montréal is a modern city in every regard. Skyscrap-ers come in unexpected shapes and noncorporate colors. There’s a beau-tifully preserved historic district. The subway system, called the Métro, is modern and swift. And the city’s creative inhabitants provide zest to the ever-changing Plateau Mont-Royal and Mile End, large neighbor-hoods of artists’ lofts, boutiques, and cafes, and miles of restaurants—many of which are unabashedly clever and stylish.

Québec City, more traditional and more French, is replacing its former conservatism with sophistication and playfulness. With an impressive location above the St. Lawrence River and carefully tended 18th- and 19th-century houses, this city is almost impossibly romantic—and unlike any other in North America.

UNFORGETTABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCESMontréalW Enjoy an Afternoon or Evening of Jazz. In downtown, Vieux-Mon-

tréal, and the Plateau, this is a favorite pastime of locals and visitors—especially in July, during the renowned Festival International de Jazz. See “Music & Dance Clubs,” in chapter 11.

W Savor Gourmet Meals at Affordable Prices. Experience all of French cuisine’s interpretations—traditional, haute, bistro, Québécois—the way the locals do: by ordering the table d’hôte specials. You’ll get to

04_679692-ch01.indd 104_679692-ch01.indd 1 9/28/10 1:33 PM9/28/10 1:33 PM

COPYRIG

HTED M

ATERIAL

2

TH

E B

ES

T O

F M

ON

TR

EA

L &

QU

EB

EC

CIT

Y

Th

e B

est

Sp

lurg

e H

ote

ls

1

indulge in three or more courses for a fixed price that is only slightly more than the cost of a single main course. Most restaurants offer the option. See p. 19.

W Explore Vieux-Montréal. The city’s oldest quarter has an overwhelmingly Euro-pean flavor. Place Jacques-Cartier is the most popular outdoor square, and in any direction, you’ll find museums and churches worth savoring. A revitalized water-front also inspires strolling or biking. A walking tour of the neighborhood is on p. 129.

Québec CityW Linger at an Outdoor Cafe. Tables are set out at Place d’Armes in Upper Town,

in the Quartier du Petit-Champlain in Lower Town, and along the Grande-Allée. It’s a quality-of-life invention the French and their Québécois brethren have per-fected. See chapter 15 for more information.

W Soak Up Lower Town. Once all but abandoned to the grubby edges of the ship-ping industry, the riverside neighborhood of Basse-Ville/Vieux-Port has been reborn. Antiques shops, bistros, and chic boutique hotels now fill rehabilitated 18th- and 19th-century buildings. See p. 48 for a walking tour.

W Take in a Free Summer Evening Show by Cirque du Soleil. The internationally-known circus company puts on free performances on city streets most summer nights through at least 2013, in a program that got its start as part of Québec City’s 400th anniversary celebrations. See p. 112.

THE best SPLURGE HOTELSMontréalW Hôtel Le St-James (355 rue St-Jacques ouest; & 866/841-3111 or 514/841-

3111): This former 19th-century bank in Vieux-Montréal lets no detail escape its attention. From an opulent restaurant to marble-rich bathrooms to an immacu-lately trained staff, Hôtel Le St-James provides an experience that may well be the highlight of your visit. See p. 73.

W W Montréal (901 rue Square-Victoria; & 877/946-8357 or 514/395-3100): Hip, chic, and nightclubby, the W has three bars and lounges, a swank restaurant, and a clientele composed of knockouts of both genders. It you’re staying here, it won’t hurt if your platinum card is paid up and you don’t need much sleep. See p. 77.

Every narrow street, leafy plaza, side-walk cafe, horse-drawn calèche, pitched roof, and church spire breathes recollections of France’s provincial towns. But to get the full Québec City treatment, amble those streets in the evening and find a bench on Terrasse

Dufferin, the promenade alongside the Château Frontenac. The river below will be the color of liquid mercury in the moon’s glow, and on a clear night, you’ll see a sky of stars. Faint music from the boîtes in Lower Town is a pos-sibility. Romance is a certainty.

Romantic Québec City


3

TH

E B

ES

T O

F M

ON

TR

EA

L &

QU

EB

EC

CIT

Y T

he M

ost U

nfo

rgettab

le Din

ing

Exp

eriences

1Québec CityW Auberge Saint-Antoine (8 rue St-Antoine; & 888/692-2211 or 418/692-2211):

Sure, there’s the Château Frontenac, looming on the cliffs above, the very symbol of the city. But for a more intimate visit, stay in Basse-Ville, (Lower Town). This romantic luxury hotel has grown into one of Québec’s most desirable lodgings, with an arresting lounge and a top restaurant to boot. See p. 222.

W Hôtel Le Germain-Dominion (126 rue St-Pierre; & 888/833-5253 or 418/692-2224): An anchor in the successful redevelopment of the once-dreary Vieux-Port, the Dominion has bedding so cozily enveloping that you may not want to go out. Do, though—for the fireplace, croissants, and café au lait in the lobby, if nothing else. See p. 222.

THE best MODERATELY PRICED HOTELSMontréalW Auberge Bonaparte (447 rue St-François-Xavier; & 514/844-1448): Even the

smallest rooms in this fashionable urban inn are gracefully presented, and taking breakfast in the elegant Bonaparte restaurant (p. 89) is an especially civilized way to start the day. See p. 77.

W Le Square Phillips Hôtel & Suites (1193 Square Phillips; & 866/393-1193 or 514/393-1193): Tidy, centrally located, and equipped with full kitchens in every unit. There’s even a rooftop pool. See p. 72.

Québec CityW Courtyard Marriott Québec (850 Place d’Youville; & 866/694-4004 or

418/694-4004): A hot property in recent years due to room renovations, friendly staff, and fair prices. Beds are piled with five pillows and sheet-cover duvets. See p. 224.

W Hôtel Champlain (115 rue Ste-Anne; & 800/567-2106 or 418/694-0106): Even the smallest rooms boast silk curtains, king or queen beds, and 300-thread-count sheets. A self-serve espresso machine by the front desk ensures free cappuccinos at any time of day or night. See p. 220.

THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE DINING EXPERIENCESMontréalW Europea (1227 rue de la Montagne; & 514/398-9229): For the full treatment,

order the 10-course menu degustation. You’ll see why chef Jérôme Ferrer was named Chef of the Year in 2007 by his colleagues and why the accolades keep coming, year after year. See p. 84.


4

TH

E B

ES

T O

F M

ON

TR

EA

L &

QU

EB

EC

CIT

Y

Th

e B

est

Mu

seu

ms

1W Toqué! (900 Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle; & 514/499-2084): Chef/owner Norman

Laprise has been thrilling gourmands for years. In dishes of startling innovation, he brings together diverse ingredients that have rarely appeared before on restau-rant plates. New menus come out frequently. See p. 89.

Québec CityW Initiale (54 rue St-Pierre; & 418/694-1818): Gracious, cordial, and subdued,

this is one of the best restaurants of the entire province. Dress up and settle in, perhaps with the eight-course seasonal tasting menu. See p. 234.

W Panache (10 rue St-Antoine; & 418/692-1022): Romance all the way, from the fireplace and velvet couches to the wrought-iron staircase leading to hideaway attic corners. French-Canadian cuisine with a kick, inside the knockout Auberge Saint-Antoine. See p. 235.

THE best MUSEUMSMontréalW Musée des Beaux-Arts (1339–1380 rue Sherbrooke ouest; & 514/285-2000):

Canada’s first museum devoted exclusively to the visual arts opened in 1912. It has expanded over the years, and new for 2011 is the adjacent Erskine and American Church. Temporary exhibits are dazzling and have focused in recent years on musician Miles Davis, fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, and the art of Cuba. See p. 105.

W Pointe-à-Callière (Montréal Museum of Archaeology and History) (350 Place Royale; & 514/872-9150): A first visit to Montréal might best begin here. This strikingly modernistic structure at the edge of Vieux-Montréal marks the spot where the first European settlement put down roots in the city. It stands atop extensive excavations that unearthed not only remains of the French newcomers, but also of the native bands that preceded them. On the self-guided tour, you wind your way through the subterranean complex. See p. 111.

Québec CityW Musée de la Civilisation (85 rue Dalhousie; & 418/643-2158): Here is that

rarity among museums: a collection of cleverly mounted temporary and perma-nent exhibitions that both children and adults find engrossing, without talking down or metaphysical maunderings. Make time for “People of Québec . . . Then and Now,” a permanent exhibit that is a sprawling examination of Québec history. See p. 240.

W Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec (Parc des Champs-de-Bataille; & 866/220-2150 or 418/643-2150): Known simply as Musée du Québec, this museum highlights modern art (Jean-Paul Riopelle especially) and has a large, important collection of Inuit art, much produced in the 1980s and 1990s. See p. 244.


5

TH

E B

ES

T O

F M

ON

TR

EA

L &

QU

EB

EC

CIT

Y T

he B

est Activities fo

r Fam

ilies

1THE best OUTDOOR ACTIVITIESMontréalW Traverse the Lachine Canal. First constructed in the early 1800s to detour around

the rapids of the same name, the canal was reopened for recreational use in 1997 after much renovation. It connects Vieux-Port with Atwater Market. You can explore the canal and its surroundings by guided boat tour, on foot, or on a rented bicycle. See chapter 8.

W Bike the City. Montréalers’ enthusiasm for bicycling has provided the impetus for the ongoing development of bicycle paths that wind through downtown areas and out to the countryside—more than 560km (348 miles), at last count. Rentals are available from shops and the new BIXI network, which has put thousands of bikes onto the streets for inexpensive borrowing. See p. 127.

Québec CityW Take a Walking Tour. Combine immersion in Québec’s rich history with a good

stretch of the legs among the battlements and along the storied city’s cobble-stoned streets. Use the walking tours in chapter 17 or go on a group tour. See p. 254.

THE best ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIESMontréalW Visit the Biodôme de Montréal. Perhaps the most engaging attraction in the city

for younger children. The Biodôme houses replications of four ecosystems: a Laurentian forest; the St. Lawrence marine system; a polar environment; and most appealingly, a tropical rainforest. See p. 112.

W Spend a Day at the Centre des Sciences de Montréal. Running the length of a central pier in Vieux-Port, this ambitious science center has permanent interac-tive displays, along with special exhibits. One recent exhibit guided kids in mak-ing television news reports at computers; there’s also a popular IMAX theater. It’s designed especially for ages 9 to 14. See p. 110.

Québec CityW Watch the Changing of the Guard. La Citadelle is the fortress built by the British

to repel an American invasion that never came. It’s still an active military post, and the ceremonial Changing of the Guard is colorful and doesn’t take too much time. See p. 224.

W Thrill to a Waterfall. A 15-minute car or bus ride north of the city is Montmo-rency Falls, a spectacular cascade. You can walk to the base or take a cable car to the top. A footbridge passes directly over the plunging water and is open to anyone


6

TH

E B

ES

T O

F M

ON

TR

EA

L &

QU

EB

EC

CIT

Y

Th

e B

est

of

Mo

ntr

éal &

Qu

ébec

Cit

y O

nlin

e

1

brave-hearted enough to walk it. About a half-hour further north, Canyon Ste-Anne also has a waterfall with footbridges that crisscross it and the canyon. See p. 286 and p. 288.

THE best OF MONTREAL & QUEBEC CITY ONLINEW Bonjour Québec (www.bonjourquebec.com): The official site of the province of

Québec is a comprehensive information bank. You’ll find details about upcoming events and special package deals.

W Midnight Poutine (www.midnightpoutine.ca): A terrific Montréal blog with some 20 contributors that provides “a personal ongoing account of the city’s happen-ings” and “a delicious high-fat source of rants, raves, and musings.”

A NOTE ABOUT ENGLISH AND FRENCH IN THIS book

Like the Québecois themselves, this guidebook goes back and forth between using the French names and the English names for areas and attractions. Most often, we use French. Québec’s state-mandated language is French, and

most signs, brochures, and maps in the region appear in French. However, we use the English name or translation, as well, if that makes the meaning clearer. Bon voyage!


frommer's montreal and quebec city 2011

Documents