Cooperative Extension Service Bath County 2914 E. Hwy 60 Owingsville, KY 40360

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From the Ground Up

UPCOMING MEETINGS AND EVENTS:

November 12—Ag Commodity night: Bath, Montgomery, Menifee counties—Montgomery County Office

November 15-23—North American Livestock Expo Beef week

November 28-29—Thanksgiving—Extension Office will be Closed

December 9—BQCA certification—6:00 p.m. Extension Office

December 12—Regional Vegetable Growers/Farmer’s Market meeting 6:00pm—Bath County Office

Bath County Farmers Market open Friday and Saturday mornings through December

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Bath County Agricultural Newsletter

November 2019

Bath County Extension Agent for Agriculture and Natural Resources

Robert Amburgey

Please RSVP for Ag Commodity Day

By calling the Bath County Extension Office at:

674-6121 no later than noon November 11th.

LIVEN UP WINTER DAYS WITH AMARYLLIS

Source: Richard Durham, Horticulture Extension Professor

Few plants can liven up a winter day like the amaryllis. The large pink,

white, red, orange and variegated flowers are truly spectacular. You may

have received an amaryllis bulb as a holiday gift.

A member of the lily family, the amaryllis rises from a large bulb. The

growth habit makes it well suited for blooming during the colder months

of the year.

Knowing about its natural habitat in Central and South America will help

you successfully grow and flower an amaryllis at home. The plants are

adapted to ecosystems with a long, moist growing season, followed by a shorter dry season. At the begin-

ning of the rainy season, the bulb sends forth foliage and flowers. Although the flowers last only for two to

three weeks, the foliage grows throughout the moist season during which time new flower buds form within

the bulb. It goes dormant during the dry season, but resumes growth and flowers when the rainy season be-

gins.

When you buy an amaryllis, it likely will be a dormant bulb. If so, pot the bulb about six to 12 weeks before

you want the plant to bloom. Use a container with a diameter just slightly larger than the bulb and a potting

mix that promotes good drainage. One-third to one-half the pointed end of the bulb should remain above

the soil. Thoroughly water and put the pot in a bright, warm window.

Water when the soil becomes dry to the touch, but do not give it too much water because this will cause the

bulb to rot. Never allow water to accumulate in the saucer beneath the pot.

In a few weeks, a flower stalk should emerge, usually before the foliage develops. Rotate the container eve-

ry few days to keep the flower and foliage from leaning too much toward the light. You may need to stake

the flower stalk to keep it upright in a low-light situation.

When the bloom is spent, remove the wilted flowers and cut the flower stalk back to the top of the bulb. Do

not remove any foliage because the leaves continue to provide energy for the next season's flowers. Fertilize

it every couple of weeks to promote healthy foliage.

If you want to keep the amaryllis and get it to bloom again next year, give the plant as much light as possible

after it flowers. It will help to move the plant outdoors when the danger of frost is over, generally around

mid-May. Gradually acclimate the plant to brighter light by first putting it under a tree or awning; then mov-

ing it to brighter light every few days until the plant is in full sun.

When summer is over, keep the plant in a sunny location, but withhold water. As the foliage begins to die,

move the pot to a cool, dry location such as a basement or closet. In the winter, repot the bulb to a new

container, again only a few inches larger than the bulb's diameter. As an amaryllis bulb becomes larger, it

may produce two or even three flower spikes during the blooming period.

Kentucky Fruit and Vegetable Myths

Source: John Strang, Extension Horticulturist

There are many myths and old wives tales concerning

fruit and vegetable crops that have become part of Ken-

tucky lore. Several myths that still exist today involve

grape coloration and fall frosts.

A number of grape growers believe that it is necessary to

pick the leaves off the vine to expose the grape clusters to

the sun so the grapes will color. This myth probably origi-

nated from growers removing leaves to improve air-

circulation and reduce fruit rot. The truth is grapes—with

the exception of the seedless Reliance variety—do not

need sunlight to color. In fact, the fruit will color just fine

when covered. Home grape growers can staple a bag over each cluster which keeps off birds,

insects and diseases and reduces their spray program.

Frost has a tendency to concern many producers. Some people believe greens become poison-

ous after a frost. Greens like mustard, kale and collards actually develop a more enhanced fla-

vor after a frost. Cool temperatures slow the internal respiration of the greens, allowing more

sugars to accumulate, making them slightly sweeter. One exception, however, is rhubarb,

which becomes toxic after exposure to a hard freeze.

Myths involving frosted sweet potato roots also exist. Many producers believe that sweet pota-

to roots become poisonous after a frost, but they actually just rot. Sweet potatoes are warm sea-

son crops and will not tolerate a vine-killing frost. Producers should worry about frost injuring

the sweet potatoes where they attach to the vine. This injury prevents healing after the sweet

potato is harvested leading to decay in storage.

Preparing Horses for Winter

Source: Bob Coleman, Extension Equine Specialist

Winter will be here before you know it. It’s a good time to start thinking about your horses’ needs before

the cold, snow and ice arrive. Winter can be a particularly stressful time for horses, but there a few sim-

ple things you can do to make them more comfortable.

When temperatures start to dip below freezing, you have to make sure your horses still have constant ac-

cess to fresh water. Check your water sources now. Are the heaters in good repair? Turn them on and

check the water temperature.

Shelter is important to give horses a place out of the elements. A good wind-blocking shelter in the pas-

ture can lessen cold stress on your horses. Make sure you have fresh bedding and the shelter is clean. It

doesn’t take long for bedding to get wet, so you need to check it often.

Horses need to eat between 1.5 and 2 percent of their body weight in food each day to maintain their

weight. That figure doesn’t account for any activity. In colder weather, horses will need to eat more to

stay warm. An average horse of 1,000 pounds, in good body condition, will need to eat at least 20 pounds

of hay per day in normal weather. The amount of feed required to meet requirements can increase quickly

when the weather turns cold. In many cases the horse will not be able to eat enough hay to meet require-

ments, so owners will need to add concentrate to the program. Check your hay supplies now and make

sure you have enough and that you have a place to store it out of the weather.

Take time to send in a feed or hay sample for testing, so you’ll know if your hay has adequate nutritional

balance and quality.

It’s a good idea to get a body condition score on your horses before it gets cold, so you can start making

adjustments now if necessary.

Putting a blanket on your horse requires you to think about several things. The blanket needs to be water-

proof, in good condition, and you need to make sure it fits the horse. An ill-fitting blanket can do more

harm than good. If your horse is outside, has a good coat of hair and access to adequate shelter, you prob-

ably don’t need to use a blanket. If you do use one, check it often. If the blanket gets wet, you need to

quickly change it.

Managing the Calving Season

Source: Les Anderson, UK Extension Beef Specialist

Providing sound management during the calving season can mean more live calves. Excessive losses can

mean the difference between a year’s profit or loss for a beef producer.

It is important to have a short calving period to allow frequent observation and assistance if needed. Some

specific things a producer can do to limit calf loss include:

Separate first-calf heifers from mature cows. Calving difficulty can run as high as 30 to 40 percent for 2-

year-old heifers compared to just 3 percent for mature cows. Place them in a small, accessible pasture near a

corral where assistance can be given if needed.

Provide a clean area for calving. The calving area should be a well-sodded pasture or clean, dry maternity

pen, not a wet, muddy lot. It should also be large enough for adequate exercise and offer protection from

prevailing winds.

Be familiar with the signs of calving. Within a few hours of calving, cows generally become nervous and

uneasy. As contractions increase, a cow will likely wander away from the rest of the herd.

Check cows frequently. Observing cows three or four times a day and providing assistance when neces-

sary results in more live calves. However, cows should be disturbed as little as possible during labor.

Know when a cow needs assistance. Intervention is justified when two or three hours have passed without

progress or if delivery has not occurred within 90 minutes after the water sac appears. In a normal delivery,

the calf’s front legs and head will appear first.

There are also a few steps to take after the calf is born to help it get off to a good start. These include mak-

ing sure the calf is breathing normally after it is delivered and that it consumes colostrum. Ideally, a calf

should consume its first milk within 15 to 30 minutes after birth.

Immediately after calving increase the cow’s energy intake to about 16 pounds of total digestible nutrients

per day. The extra energy will help the cow produce enough milk for her calf and allow her to rebreed on

schedule.

Timely Tips Dr. Les Anderson, Beef Extension Professor, University of Kentucky

Spring Calving Herd

Be sure that weaned heifer calves are on a feeding program which will enable them be at about 65% of their mature weight before the start of the breeding season. Rations should be balanced to achieve gains suffi-cient to get heifers from their current weight to that “target” weight.

Body condition is important, plan an adequate winter program for cows to be at least body condition score 5 (carrying enough flesh to cover the ribs) before the calving and breeding season. This will help them to breed early in the spring. Thin cows should be fed to regain body condition prior to winter. Don’t let cows lose weight/condition. Supplementation will most likely be needed. Find low cost supplemental feeds to meet

the nutrient needs of cattle.

Divide the herd into groups for winter feeding --

-weaned heifer calves

-first-calf heifers, second-calvers and thin mature cows

-the remainder of the dry cows which are in good body condition

-herd sires

Begin feeding the lowest quality forage to dry cows which are in good condition during early winter and save the best hay for calving time or for weaned calves.

Order and number ear tags for next year’s calf crop this winter. It is also a good time to catch up on freeze branding and replacing lost ear tags.

Fall Calving Herd

Get breeding supplies together, if using estrous synchronization and/or A.I.

Have Breeding Soundness Evaluation (BSE) performed on bulls (even if you used them this spring).

The fall breeding season starts. Breeding can best be accomplished on stockpiled fescue pasture; other-wise, cows with calves should be fed 25-30 pounds of good quality hay or its equivalent. Supplement with grain, if needed, and minimize hay waste. DON’T ALLOW THESE COWS TO LOSE BODY CONDITION PRIOR TO OR DURING THE BREEDING SEASON. It is easy to wait too long to start winter feeding. Don’t do it unless you have stockpiled fescue.

Nutrition level of cows during the first 30 days after conception is critical. Pay attention.

Observe performance of bulls during breeding season. Watch cows for return to estrus, if you see several in heat, try to determine the cause and consider changing bulls.

General

Complete soil testing pasture to check for fertility and pH.

Consider putting down geotextile fabric and covering with gravel in feeding areas before you begin hay feeding to minimize waste of expensive hay. Or, perhaps, construct concrete feeding pads for winter feeding areas.

Monitor body condition and increase feed, if needed, for all classes of cattle.

SKUNKS IN KENTUCKY Two species of skunks live in Kentucky. The striped skunk (Mephitis mephitis) can be found in every county. The

spotted skunk (Spilogale putorius) is rare and can be found only in the southeastern corner of the state.

Skunks are often referred to as polecats, civet cats, hydrophoby cats, or big striped skunks. The spotted skunk is incorrectly called a civet cat because of its similarity to Old World civets. Skunks are not closely related to either true civets or to cats.

Skunks are members of the weasel family (Mustelidae). All members of this family (skunks, river otters, long-tailed weasels, least weasels, and mink) have characteristic musk glands.

Striped skunks are short, stocky mammals about the size of a domestic house cat. They typically have a triangular-shaped head tapering to a blunt nose, a large bushy tail, and large feet equipped with well-developed claws.

Their color pattern is typically characterized by two prominent white stripes down the back in a coat of jet black fur. The amount of white on the back varies tremendously, from just a patch on the head to stripes covering the entire back.

Spotted skunks are about one-half the size of striped skunks and are much more weasel-like. They are readily dis-tinguishable by white spots in front of each ear and on the forehead and four to six broken white stripes on the back. These animals are much more nervous than striped skunks and are better climbers.

Skunks can be found in a variety of habitats throughout Kentucky. Favored haunts include rolling hayfields, fencerows, brushland, woodland edges, weedy fields, rocky outcrops, wooded ravines, stone walls, and drainage ditches. Home to a skunk is an underground den that may be found in vacant buildings; under house porches, culverts, brush piles, tree stumps, lumber piles; or in abandoned fox or woodchuck burrows.

The dens are lined with leaves, hay, or grasses. Skunks use a variety of dens for loafing during the day, for giving birth and raising young, and for periods of inactivity during the winter. During the day, skunks usually sleep in the den, although during the warmer months, they may bed in vegetation along fencerows, hayfields, or pastures.

During the winter months, skunks may remain inactive in the den for a period of days or weeks. Skunks do not hibernate but become inactive during cold weather, relying on stored body fat to get them through the winter. Several skunks may share the same den during winter to conserve body heat.

Skunks are nocturnal, becoming active from sunset to slightly after sunrise. Female skunks are not great travelers, whereas male skunks may travel up to four or five miles a night during breeding season. Skunk home ranges normally vary from one to one and a half miles in diameter.

During the breeding season, males move slowly, become active during the day, and are reluctant to flee when endangered. This is the time when skunks are often struck by cars.

The breeding season for skunks in Kentucky begins in late January when males begin searching for females near winter dens. Skunks mate in February, and the blind, wrinkled, thinly furred young are born in May and June. Usually five to nine young kits are born in a litter, but there can be as many as 18 or as few as two.

SKUNKS Continued……….

Young skunks are weaned when they are about two months old. Families break up during August and September when the young leave to find their own homes.

Skunks are opportunistic feeders, feeding on both plant and animal material. Favorite skunk foods are grasshoppers, crickets, beetles, wasps, cutworms, and other insect larvae.

When insects are not available, skunks will eat mice, rats, shrews, moles, chipmunks, and other small mammals. Skunks will also eat reptiles, amphibians, fish, fruits, and garbage.

They will occasionally feed on poultry and the eggs of ground-nesting birds.

Most of a skunk’s diet consists of small mammals and insects considered injurious to man. Thus, when skunks are not causing a problem, many people believe they should be left alone because, on the whole, they do more good than harm.

The best long-term solution to managing skunk problems is to prevent them from happening. Lawns and farm-yards that are kept clean are less attractive to skunks. Remove all sources of debris from the yard where skunks could find shelter or food (insects or small rodents). These include old boards lying on the ground, rocks, junk, and stacked lumber or trash piles.

You can also reduce the opportunity for an encounter with one of these smelly creatures by placing garbage or other food materials in sealed trash cans (not garbage bags). If you feed pets outside, clean up all dog and cat food after each feeding, and store the feed in a steel trash can so it is unavailable to insect or rodent pests.

Many farmsteads have grain storage areas that attract mice and rats and possibly skunks in search of an easy meal. Unless the rodent problem is solved, this source of food will create a continual skunk problem. A good integrat-ed rodent control program will eliminate this attraction. To summarize, modify the environment by removing sources of shelter and situations that create rodent or insect problems.

Most skunks can be prevented from digging and denning under foundations, porches, or buildings by sealing off all openings. With sturdy mesh wire (1/4- or 1/2-inch hardware cloth or similar material), tightly seal holes in founda-tions, under porches, or vents near ground level or other areas where a skunk could enter. If the skunk could gain ac-cess by digging, the mesh wire should be buried 12 to 18 inches underground. The bottom 6 inches should be bent outward in an “L” shape to discourage skunks from digging under it.

There are no chemical repellents or toxicants (poisons) registered for controlling skunks in Kentucky. Other than habitat modification and exclusion mentioned above, the only methods available for controlling skunks are trapping.

Skunks are considered fur-bearing animals and receive protection under Kentucky law. However, if a skunk is damaging your property, you can legally kill or destroy the animal. You must then notify your local conservation officer to dispose of the carcass.

The preferred and most recommended solution to removing and disposing of problem skunks is trapping. Skunks can easily be trapped. A variety of live traps for catching skunks is available from hardware, agricultural supply and feed stores, or sporting goods stores. Select a size approximately 10 x 10 x 30 inches. Before setting the trap, cover it with heavy canvas to reduce the chances of a skunk releasing its scent. Be sure to leave each end open.

Bait the trap with canned or fresh fish, fish-flavored cat food, sardines, chicken entrails, or peanut butter. If you know the location of den’s entrance, place the trap directly in front of it so the skunk will enter the trap as it leaves the den.

Skunks are easy to catch and can be transported without releasing their scent if done carefully. If you did not cover the trap with canvas, tarp, or thick burlap when it was set, slowly approach the animal, and gently cover the trap with the material. This creates a dark, secure environment, and the skunk will be less fearful and less likely to release its scent. Carefully pick up the covered trap, and gently place it in the back of a pickup truck for transporta-tion. You must work quietly and slowly and avoid sudden jarring movements or loud noises.