fresh project copy nandu

8/6/2019 Fresh Project Copy Nandu

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OVER ALL VIEW OF INDUSTRY

India has a long and rich tradition of providing variety of

Textiles. The Textile Industry is the second largest Industryafter Agriculture in the terms of persons employed. Itemployees around 38.11 million people. Besides generatingemployment, it also earns the nations substantial foreignexchange which accounts for nearly one-third of India's totalforeign exchange earnings. The Indian Textile Industry, in itself ishighly diversified. It ranges from the handmade traditional textileproducts in the cottage industry to the highly capital intensive,modern and sophisticated mill sectors and synthetic fiber and

manufacturing units. In between these two extremes, lies a vastdecentralized power loom and knitting sector.

The textile and garment industry is booming in India, especially afterelimination of the global quota system.Presently India is exportinggarments to more than 100 countries including US, EU, Latin America, andMiddle East. Last year, garment export was nearly $5000 million and about1200 million pieces. The main competitors of India are countries like China,Korea, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Malaysia, and Sri-Lanka.

The Indian garment industry is gaining ground in the world market atThe key factors behind this are low technological development, loweroutput, cut throat competition, high raw material cost, inadequateinfrastructure, traditional productivity, unfavorable regulatory policies, andglobalization impact. However, there is a fair list of the producers,suppliers, and exporters that are fully acknowledged with regulatorypolicies and formalities, international marketing policies and procedures.

The only concern is in executing their productivity initiatives, and meetingwith order deadlines.

Now days, major companies are adopting merchandising concepts,which comply with all procedures to execute and dispatch the shipment on

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time, considering quality, cost and time. Merchandisers are serious in thesuccess of any garment retail business. They provide the right products atthe right time, enabling a company to match with latest market trends andmeet the market demand.

In the merchandising concept, time management is a gig tomanage one's time properly, so he can focus on value.Today's garment merchandisers have to move with frequent changes indemand and the developing technologies utilized in manufacturing andproduction. To find out customer requirements, they regularly visit retailoutlets, and come up with latest updates from frontline staff. In order tokeep an eye on developments in sourcing, site visits are made every weekto mainland factories to meet suppliers and study production.

Designing and sampling are the main process in GarmentIndustry and it as a vital role in attracting buyers. Because thebuyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with thequality of the samples. The samples decide the ability of anexporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his organizationonly by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and withreasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place theorder. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative andwith optimum quality. The purpose of sampling is not only to get

bulk orders and also give some additional benefits to theexporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarnconsumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costingmore ever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doingsampling only the exporter can optimize the processingparameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kind ofbottlenecks. All these works are carried out by the samplingdepartment, which us led by a sampling in charge.

In garment merchandising, there is no specific rule, so it's importantto be able to think on one's feet.


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TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER TITLE

1 DEPARTMENTS

2.1. MERCHANDISING

2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

2.3. FABRIC SOURCING

2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT

2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT

2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT

2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT

2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT

2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE

2.10. CAD ROOM2.11. CUTTING ROOM

2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

2.13. IED DEPARTMENT

2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT

2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT

2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT

MERCHANDISING

Merchandising is a process through which pr oducts are planned,developed, executed and presented to the buyer. It includes directing andoverseeing the development of product line from start to finish. Mar kiting andmerchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers work togetherunder a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. Theteams are made according to the buyers being handled.Two type of merchandising done in garment exports

Marketing merchandising.Product merchandising.

Marketing merchandisingMain function of marketing merchandising is

Marketing merchandising : is to bring orders costly products developmentPage 3


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and it has direct contact with the buyer.Product merchandising :Product merchandising is done in the unit. T his includes all theresponsibilities from sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the productsmerchandising work start and ends till shipment.

A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:-

Product Development

Market and product Analysis

Selling the concept

Booking orders

Confirming Deliveries

Designing and Sampling

Costing

Raw Material

Flow Monitoring

Production Follow Ups

Payments Follows

DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE

MARKETING MERCHANDISER

HEAD MERCHANDISER

SENIOR MERCHANDISER

JUNIOR MERCHANDISER

In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business andtechnical aspects. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products

development and coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meets buyers expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point.

Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work andfollow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the orderis placed it is their duty to complete the necessary paper work, provide

breakdown information to all other department and get samples approved for


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fit, color and quality.

Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers,approval of production samples, and development of fabric and yarns are also

included in product development, which are co-coordinated with otherdepartments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, workout delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overallwe can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.

COSTING

The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly andnegotiate for the cost of production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the

pre-development stage an initial costing occurs to get an idea of the garment costlikely to be incurred per piece.

These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost,washing cost, markup cost etc. Once the production sample is approved andthe grading done a final costing is done accurately using fabric averages fromthe CAD, cost of trims etc.

1. start2. Obtain tech pack from buyer3. Costing4. Sampling5. Develop sample as6. Analyze fabric7. Analyze cost of Obtain general consumption from trims and sewing data from

per the tech pack8. CAD

9. fabric10. IED11. Prepare cost sheet12. Develop proto from sample13. sample14. Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval15. Confirmation

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YesNo

16. Approval Cost sheet of order17. reworked18. Obtain GSD19. Obtain PCD &20. Source trims &21. Book washing &22. details from23. fabric from24. embroidery capacity if from IED25. production unit required concerned dept26. Execution of order by entering details in ERP27. Prepare sample as per buyer requirements

28. Forward the sample to buyer for approval29. Hold pre production30. Comments received from buyer

YesNo

31. Approval32. meeting with the should be incorporated and fit production unit33. sample reworked34. Follow up with Submit required Offer garments Follow up Execute productiondocuments to for final on the End.35. bulk order departments & documentation inspection.36. payments update the buyer dept37. Truck out for goods.

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

BASIC WORK FLOW

In any export house, the sampling department is one of the mostimportant departments and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit.

Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising andproduction department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look likewhen produced in bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies inthe pattern are made according to the buyers


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specification.

Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet,sketches, fabric details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the

merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information along with the detailsregarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and approval in to astyle package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.

Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by whicha small number of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement andto get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. The sampledgarments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of productionskills and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose ofcommunicating correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products,

but it also helps to calculate the fabric consumption along with that of thread andother accessories used.

It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled.This department makes samples on the basis of specifications and requirementssent by the buyer in the tech pack.

TYPES OF SAMPLES

Proto Sample:

Fit Sample:

Pilot Run Sample:

Pre Production Sample:

Pre Size set:

Size Set:

TOP Sample:Shipment Sample:

Sales Sample:

MACHINE DETAILS

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There were a total of 300 machines in the sampling department.250 operators

5 cutting tables

8 pattern making tables

1 conveyor belt fusing machine

FINISHING MACHINES

11 ironing tables

1 shirt folding machine

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample:

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has thefollowing details attachedto it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the

buyer has demandedand what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

Ref no.

Color

Fabric

Composition

DescriptionQuantity

Style no/ Size

Store


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Tech pack received from merchant

Develop patterns

Costing CAD

Develop sample

marker

Develop fit/proto sample

If any comments

If no comments

Revise Fit/Proto

PP sample

sampleIf any comments

If no comments

Revise PP sample

Size set sample

If any comments

If no comments

Incorporate buyer

Sealer sample

commentsIf any comments

If no comments

Incorporate buyer

Bulk production

comments(shrinkage to be added if it s a wash)

WORK FLOW OF SAMPLING

FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining howand where its

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merchandise ie fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with themerchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goodswithin the scheduled time and cost. A fabric source must have a knowledgeabout all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively.

STORAGE

Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are storedin two areas (a)Checked fabric and (b) Unchecked fabric. Such systemmaintenance of the store makes it easy to locate the fabric whenever needed infuture.

FABRIC ISSUE

The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on Chillan. All fabric is not issued atone go; instead it is issued as required. The Chillan contains information regardingstyle no, color, buyers name, and quantity to be issued and issued for which

production unit.

FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric requisition from merchandiser

Order placed

Fabric receive invoice/Chillan

Unloading after checkingTally with supplier invoice for quantity

Send bill to gate for entry

Receive fabric in store

For ward fabric for inspection

Inspection report sends to the concern merchant or sourcing dept.

After comments reentry in the system with final comments if rejected or accepted


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If accepted

Relocation in store

Issue against job order

Start

Sampling

Bulk

Technical analysis. Vendor

Receiving order from merchants

evaluation/selection

Technical analysis

Order Placement

If not Ok

If OkRate quotation from suppliers

S/Off

Supplier selection

Submit to buyer

Redo S/Off

Resubmission

Sampling yardage/

POP Review & P.O Confirmation

lab testsP.O Release to supplier

Final approval by buyer

Fabric receipt

Bulk

Co-ordinate with fabric audit &

factory for quantity and quality

checking.

End

PURCHASING DEPARTMENTFunctioning of the Department

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The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but themain difference is that the sourcing department works for sourcing thefabrics alone while the purchasing department works for sourcing theaccessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the same.

The working is as follows.

The merchandisers give the touchback and the BOM (Bill OfMaterials) for a particular style to the purchasing department and the concerned

person will start the further process and for costing purposes the in-house price isgiven like, the cost involved in the production and also the

price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedureinvolved for its production. In the process of doing the in-house price ,suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button is Rs.32 then a Taxes of 2% +14% of exercise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the transportationcharges and this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5%is also taken into consideration).

This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasingdepartment for the costing purpose, the cost sheet is made by themerchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer based on the costsheet given by the merchandiser.

After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser willsit with the other concerned departments and then the exact quantity requiredand the breakup of the trims and accessories with respect to color, size,MOQ, etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the purchasing department

in the for m of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all theorders irrespective of the buyer.

Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent tothe concerned department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of theraw materials is sent by the supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved bythe buyer.


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After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for thequantity and also checked according to the inspection criteria specified bythe buyer and replaced if any of them are not meeting this criterion. Thisdepartment also keeps in track of all the quantities received in- house timely.The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiseraccording to the requirements stated by the planning and the productiondepartment and this breakups will have specified date and quantity and ifthis breakups is not being mentioned then the order is being placed with thesupplier sever al times for small quantities and POs have to be sent all the time so,in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given.

Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier fordeliveries as and when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materialsfor that particular style and then the department also has to maintain the receiptsand also they have to maintain the documents of theinspections that are being carried out for those materials.

Booking from merchants:

If No

If Yes Check

existing stock

Adjust existing qty

Supplier price Quotation and

negotiationProposals

PO conformation

Raising PO in ERP

PO sending

Send PO to accounts

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Follow ups for the Shipping doc s-

for imports only

Sending do c s to documentation

dept.- for imports only

Follow up with stores for anyshort age/ excess

End

FABRIC AUDIT DEP ARTMENT

The main objectives of this department are:

Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods.

Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.

Inspection is done on the following grounds:

100% shade segregation is done.

100% width segregation is done.

15% fabric inspection is done for defects.

10 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly 100% for heavyweight fabrics.

The fabric is checked in full width for m only. The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the roll is correct or

not.

SHADE SEGREGATION

The process for shade segregation in the fabric audit department is describedfollows:

The fabric is received from the fabric store with Lab report.

Swatch of fabric of about minimum 10% or at times 100% rolls from eachlot / color are cut for lab tests if any.

meters stripe across width of each roll or taka selected is cut andshade segregation is


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done. All the cut pieces are aligned and made into a family or group anddeclare shades.

Sometimes, swatch cards or shade bands are prepared and then fabric stripfrom each roll is matched.

In some cases the shade groups are made after washing also. While doing shade segregation, color matching done by using paramount

color matching

cabinet which is provided with D-65, TL-84, CWF, TL-83, UV, INCA lightsources.

The shade bands or lot bands are then sent to concerned merchandisers,sourcing departments, cutting departments for approval and references.

All the shade details are sent to the concerned people.

FABRIC INSPECTION

In GARMENT, four point grading system is followed in the fabric auditdepartment. All fabricsare inspected under the 4 point inspection system.Penalty points are assigned based on thestandard fault size for every type offault and colored stickers are then put for the identificationof serious defects in the subsequent process.

Fault description under the 4 point inspection system :

LEVEL POINT INDICATION

0-3 inches 1 Yellow

3-6 inches 2 Green

6-9 inches 3 Navy

Over 9 inches 4 Red

Here the fabric acceptable level is maintained at:

30 points per 100 sq yards for mill made/ imported fabric.

40 points per 100 sq yards for power loom fabric.

When the fabric is inspected as per the 4 point system, the defects

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are marked withdifferent colored stickers for different types of defects as:Red Sticker Weaving DefectBlue Sticker Processing DefectGreen Sticker Other DefectsArrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation.

The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K.However, the cuttingsare kept for reference.

INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS

The width is checked and average width is mentioned. The fold length is checked and the average is mentioned.

The reed is checked and +/- 2 threads is acceptable.

Center to selvedge color variation is not acceptable.

POWER CONSUMPTION

Start

Receive fabrics

Conduct shrinkage

Verify whether quantity

Forward one meter of test on minimum 2

received match with each consignment for

If No

If Yes

bits/bale or minimum quantity ordered lab test

10 bits of consignment

Inform to stores and prepare Inspection based o n four

If No

If Yes

goods received note (in case of


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points system). Match imported fabric bulk with approved dye lot, width of fabricetc.

Name shade lot as ABC

Send to merchant for buyers approval

If approved Forward to

If No

If Yes

cutting dept.

Reject lot

End

ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department:

The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally donein terms of documents i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance andrevival whenever they are done they are done according to the documents thathave been received from the merchants and also the department also makes thedocument for anything they carry out within their roof.

The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which themerchants would have sent it to any one among the three above mentionedsupplier types. As soon as the accessory department comes to know aboutthe date on which they will receive that particularmaterial they will make a note of it in their ERP that they will be receiving thatmaterial and this is termed as PRE GRN.

Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date theconcerned person verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Chillan and

packing list which they would have received from the merchant as alreadystated.

After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to thedocuments then they carry out a quality inspection and this inspection iscarried out irrespective to the type of the buyer. The company carries this

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inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods received.

Production issues:

Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been

approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery Chillan and keep the trimsready to issue to the factories. Materials to be issued after inspected bysecurity against DC as already mentioned.StartAccept & receive materials against documentsPrepare PRE GRNVerify materials against invoice/ Delivery Chillan & packing listCarry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQ

#

Allocation of trims based on the nature of the itemPrepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same isforwarded to accounts for payment.

PLANNING DEPARTMENT


Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of theorder and helps the merchants to determine the costing of a particular styleand they also tell the merchants if the company is capable of producing the

particular style in the given span of time and also helps them to know thecapacity of the production floor.

On receiving the order s, from the merchants they start to decide the


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date for having the PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments whichare directly involved which are, planning, production and the finishingdepartments. Then the department will allocate the style to the unit whicheverhas the capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line

openings and also buyers specifications and the skill of labor required for it.

The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan CutDate), Order Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. withrespect to the particular unit in which that particular order has been placedwith.

The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts ameeting with three other departments to come to end up giving a proper

planning and scheduling dates for the particular style this will take about 10 15 days from the merchandiser approves the order thathas to be followed.

Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department)on productivity based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of thegarment, number of components in the garment, type of seams, length ofstitches involved in the garment, types of machinesrequired to finish the garment, any specialized machine is required or not forthe manufacturing of the garment, difficulties involved during stitching of the

garment if it is of a complicated style and structure, the skill level required forthe various operations of the garment and the ratio ofthe operators with r aspect to their skill levels required for manufacturing the

particular garment for all the operations all together. Then they finally come toa conclusion about planning entire style.

Secondly, they confirm m the details given to the concerned units i.e.,they confirm m thePCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar information from them in

consultation with theGM and FM.

Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision andthen they also get a confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishingdepartments if the slots for the dates on which they have planned for those

particular styles is available and then after confirmation they fix the particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washingPage 19


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and finishing departments.

After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation obtained from the departments the planning departmentwill confirm the order plan with the merchants and then provide MIS(Management Information System) report to the management every fortnight,then they prepare a Batch Commitment Sheet and this sheet is prepared about3 5 days before the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes thedetails regarding the

batch that has taken up the job of producing the particular style, thequantity which they are committed to produce for a day and the labordetails (which involves the number of operators and to which operation theyare assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned). Thissheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the hourly production of the

batch.

Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a BatchVariance Sheet, this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheetand in this sheet the updating of the style in the production floor is done and isgiven to the merchants on daily basis.

Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the orderis completely being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.

The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the rawmaterials to the production floor and they must make sure that none of thedays the batch /sewing line must sit idle with a reason of raw material non-availability.

The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of thedepartments like the IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc.,the communication within the different departments is done purely on the mail

basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of mails regarding thechanges in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then thedepartment maintains a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.


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LABORATORY DEPARTMENT


The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devicesand instruments that are required for the testing of both the fabric and theaccessory items. But, there are several tests which the buyer prescribes forwhich the machineries are not available in the factory for such tests thefactory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics oraccessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratorieswhich are authorized ones with the buyers and the merchants approval.

The laboratory in this unit is the centralized one for the units that arelocated in

Bangalore city.

The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments.T he departments and their main functions and applications with the laboratoryare as follows.

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Fabric Sourcing department:

The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that haveto be ordered later may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production.

The sourcing department as soon as it receives the fabric swatches from thesupplier they will select the fabrics which they require for the particular styleand then order for a few meter s and then after they receive the small amountthen they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried outfor that particular fabric sample.

The list of tests that the sourcing department generally asks for are asfollows.

Count

Construction

Color fastness to washing

Color fastness to crocking

Dimensional stability to washing

Fabric strength

Fabric weight

ACCESSORY STORAGE:

The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they willhave to do the sampling process and then they have to make a list of thetests that are supposed to be carried out for that particular accessories andthen they send this to the laboratory. The listsof accessories and tests that are generally tested are as follows,

Button breaking testColored laces and tapes are tested for color fastnessColor fastness test for elasticsLining fabrics for their dimensional stabilityCorrugated box


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MERCHNDISING DEPARTMENT:

The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory forthe general tests which has to be carried out on the garment samples whichare termed as lab dips. T he garment sample is sent to the laboratory with alist of tests that has to be carried out as

per the buyer specifications.

After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then thegarment fabric samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to becarried out if the buyer specifies.

Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have togive a fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab thenthey generally send it in a format sheet which includes the style number, buyername, specifications of the particular material with respect to thecomposition, construction, material type, color and other material relateddetails which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests.

The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like:

Types of tests.

Urgency of the task.

Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.

Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.

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Time required in getting the proper and the required output.

Number of samples that has to be tested.

Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the

specifications from any of the departments they generally proceed on priority bases. If the results are required very soon and the tests does not involveany kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and thentested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involvesmore number of tests and tests which involve long processing then such teststakes time about 2 3 days and then after receiving the proper output they notedown the readings in the record and then send it the concerned department formwhere they have got it.

Start

Fabric Sourcing

Accessory stores

Merchandising

Test

Carry on test on fabric and garment as per buyer

Count

Buttons requirement

Color laces and Construction

twill tapes On meetingbuyer requirement,

Color fastness

samples to be to washing

test and elastic sent to external lab to get approval

Dimensional

Stability

washing

Fabric Strength

Corrugated boxFabric Weight

End


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MACHINE MAINTENANCE

Apart from having quality system and the best practices, machinemaintenance is also a very important are to get quality products.Unacceptable quality of products often results ill-maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarilyaimed toward reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine

maintenance is also necessary to avoid casualties at the floor. T he function ofPREVENTIVE MAINT ENANCE includes;

Care of the fittings

Adjusting settings

Oil changing

Graph maintenance

Outward/inward reports

Needle weekly reports.

Machine configuration chart History card

Needle log cards.

TYPES OF MACHINES

Over lock DCX1/DCX27

Flat lock UYX128/DVX43

Pivoting UOX163/T VX7

Smoking DVKX25/DVX57

Shell stitch LS-151

Pick/ saddle stitch DBX1

Bar tack DPX5/DPX17

Button stitch( shank button) TQX3

Button stitch DPX5/DPX7

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Button stitch chain stitch TQX1/TQX7

Button hole DPX5

Zigzag DBX1

Six thread cover seam m/c UOX118

CAD ROOM

GARMENT EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied stylegarments are made withhelp of Potties software package.

FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM

CAD department is responsible for the following functions:

Determining cutting average for costing

Making the most efficient cutting marker

Development and alteration of patterns

Development of size set pattern by grading Embroidery graphics making Digitizing the pattern

BASIC WORKFLOW

Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:

Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.

Graded measurement spec sheet.

Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form ( open roll or

folded for m), roll size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.Then the work of the CAD room begins.

Receive spec sheet form

Receive patterns from pattern

Digitize pattern to feed in Pattern correction Output to Pattern grading

Graphtec


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plotter

Cut ratio

planning

Pattern sent to merchandiser for sampling.

Market planning

according to the cut plan ratio

Output marker

Output mini to plotter

WORK FLOW IN CAD printer

DEPARTMENT

Send to room for cutting

merchandiser for costing.

EFFECTS OF CAD

All the jobs described so far lend themselves ideally to computerized graphics.The master patterns or blocks can be stored as images in the computer and calledup as required, together with a list of each of the pattern parts for that block. Withthe use of a light pen, each part can be brought up in turn and enlarged on thescreen. This job obviously retains its skill and even requires theadded skill of computer operation. With interactive graphics the pattern maker cannow adjust each part to match the designer's concept.

EFFECT OF CAD ON GARMENTDESIGN AND PRE-ASSEMBLY

Block images stored in computer

Grading technique replaced byexpert system

Percentage wasted computed anddisplayed for each layout

Fabric pattern constraints incorporated

in the program Learning system incorporated

Lay-makers deskilled

Cutters replaced by CAD/CAM

Women take over as operators

Wages reduced

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The grading technique, developed by graders over many years in the form oftables, has been entered into the computer for use in a primitive expert system, sothat grading is now automated. The skill has been appropriated and the job has

been deskilled. Finally, the layout or marking is done by an operator working at theVDU. At each trial he/she can be supplied with a computed ratio of cloth used tocloth wasted. The optimization technique has a learning routine, so that theoperator's skill is gradually incorporated into the program as a rule base. Each timethe program is used it therefore

Garment 6accomplishes its task more rapidly and further deskills the operator.A radically different approach can be taken in which the problem is solved by analgorithm developed by a highly skilled technicist of another discipline - say anindustrial mathematician. This would be the approach adopted in a window factory

to computer the optimum cutting pattern with minimum wastage for an order ofwindow panes. In these cases, of course, the old craftsman is simply scrapped. Thisis important because the same distinction is applicable to the programming ofrobots. To illustrate, Fig. 276 shows three possible arrangements forthe cutting of shoe vamps13. The second and third assume a cutting tool that canrotate 180 deg. These were developed using theorems in pure mathematics. 14The result of these technological changes has been to allow women to follow thekeyboards into the cutting room as CAD operators. Not only are some of the jobsdeskilled but wages are lowered across the board. Such a strategy is said to beessential if the domestic garment industry is to compete with the third world. Butthings are not always what they seem. Take the case of Vogue Brassiere who haveclosed one of their two Canadian factories and moved production to Mexico.Zeller's sell two lines of Vogue Brassiere, one made in Canada with the seamsturned over and stitched, retailing in 1992 for $20.50, one made in Mexico withserged edges (an inferior way of finishing) retailing at $19.50. The wages inCanada are $8.00/h those in Mexico 50c. Who pockets the difference?15The completion of the automation of the cutting room is achieved by linking theCAD

Garment 7system to an automated, digitally controlled, cutting knife able to cut 200 layers ofcloth at a time. This is being replaced by a cutting laser with much greateraccuracy where the fabric permits. Interviews with managers have revealed thatthey feel the benefits come as much from enhanced control of both human and


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material "resources" as from savings in the wage bill. As one manager said "It putsmanagement in the driver's seat". There are also savings in fabric costs as thelayout routine is claimed to perform consistently at the level of the best markers.16This is not yet the case at Kids Only, where the final adjustments are done by the

operator

CUTTING ROOM

The Old Craft of the Cutting Room

The business of turning fashion designs into working patterns was originally of

course a purely manual craft.

Step 1. The pattern makers use cardboard master patterns (called blocks)representing the standard garments such as "ladies blouse with set-in sleeve".They adapt the fo these and make a complete pattern on thin card for the standardsize of garment, accompanied by detailed patterns for each of the parts: sleeve, cuffetc. with allowances forGarment 5seams. This is called "splitting" in the shoe industry. Incidentally, the process is

just thesame for shoes as for garments. You may recall the discussion of CADapplications to theOntario shoe industry shown in the movie on automation.Step 2. A standard pattern goes to a grader who adapts it to the full range of sizesusing"grading rules" codified in a set of written tables based on experience of humananatomy.Obviously, if a person is a centimetre taller it doesn't mean they are a centimetrewider. For

each size, separate patterns are made for each of the parts of the garment: collar,cuffs etc. Asmany as a hundred parts may be created. This job is, I suppose, the key to customersatisfaction in fit.Step 3. These parts then go to the marker or lay-maker who lays them out like a

jigsawpuzzle on a table which may be 30 m long. The marker's job is to maximize the

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utilization of a bolt of cloth while observing certain constraints such as thedirection of the

pattern or the weave. Fabric costs amount to, on average, 50% of the costs ofmaking agarment. Therefore this job has key economic importance.

If you have an experienced cutting room staff to inspect, do NOTassume that they are doing every thing perfectly.

Effective inspection requires random examination of cuttingoperations. The inspector should not develop a set routine. You do notwant the workers to be in the habit of knowing when and how you willconduct your inspection. You should make every effort to get a fairrepresentation of the cutting production by making random checks on the

cutting room floor. When checking spreaders, make certain to check formarker placement, shading, table marks, etc. Here are a few issues tocheck.

Marker Placement : check that the marker is placed on the spreadwith the edge parallel to the selvage of the piece goods. Verify that all cutpieces will be complete.

Shading : unless all parts are plymarked, it is essential to have asystem to control shading.

Table marks : check the table marks as they table is marked. Allowno minus tolerance for the splices.

Markers : ensure that no markers are creased, damaged, or haveoverlapped parts.

Splices : after completion of the spread, check splice laps to see thatboth piles extend past the marked splice by no less then 1/2 inch and nomore then 1 inch.

Narrow Goods : after completion of the spread, check the far edge ofthe spread to see that all plies extend beyond the marker line.


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Tension : check tension during spreading. This is very important onknit fabrics.

Count : check the count after completion of spreading, and before

cutting. Count all plies at both ends. There should be no tolerance.

Leaning : check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric issquare to table top. Visually inspect the alignment of the edge with thetable top.

Record the spreading defects by the quantity of defects found foreach checkpoint. Any defective work discovered by the inspector shouldbe immediately corrected.

Scissors and Shears

A sharp pair of scissors or shears is integral to cutting fabric. The differencebetween scissors and shears is in the handle: the two handles on a pair ofscissors are identical, whereas one handle is larger than the other on a pair ofshears. Scissors and shears can be used for most basic cutting tasks.

Knife Cutting Machines

Cutting machines are commonly used for the mass commercial productionof clothing. The straight knife cutting machine is the most commonly usedmachine. Other cutting machines include band knife machines and round

knife machines. Both computerized and manual versions of these machinesare available.

Rotary Cutters

These small hand-held devices with a circular blade that slices throughfabric. They are similar to the round blade machines used in commercialgarment making, but smaller and not motorized. They are usually used with

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a self-healing mat to avoid damaging work surfaces.

Pinking Shears

Pinking shears are specialty scissors with scalloped blades. They are used to

finish seams by providing an edge that does not unravel.

BASIC WORK FLOW:

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style fromthe productionmanager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut agiven amount ofstyles, from the spreads. It comes in for m of a package file that carries the

following details:

Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only), andother trims averages.

Measurement sheet

Design worksheet of the garment

Purchase order

Fabric requisition sheet CAD mini marker

Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which thepatterns are to be cut.

ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS:Spreading:

Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on ahorizontal table in a manner, which permits these plies to be cutsimultaneously into product components acceptable for assembly. For this,first of all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the cutting table using anadhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting duringcutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of firstfabric layer on this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.


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The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically bythe spreading machine.

While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machinegives faster and more accurate results. The length of the lay depends uponthe quality of the fabric & length of the marker as specified by the CAD.Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric and the capacityof the machine.

Cutting:

The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knifecutting machines or CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the layfollowing the pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade cut the

pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are also added. For smallercomponents like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, bandknife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the

fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and whenthey are cut. Spread Place marker Cut pattern pieces

Block cutting:

Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreadingmachine due torequirements of matching so they are spread manually. Often

structures like jacquard and checksare spread and cut in single number foraccuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matchingthe stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are cut out fromthis spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the block is dictated bythe CAD room itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the blocksfrom the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks.

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Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on the top withmarking chalk and using the hard paper patterns. T he plies in the block arealigned to the match the stripes and a rough cutting of the fabric followingthe markings of the pattern is done. T he cut shapes are again checked foralignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs tofinish the patterns.

Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. Thewastage involved is also more due to cutting in two stages.

Spread

Match

Mark blocks

Match

Mark patterns

Cut patterns

Match

Final precise shaping of patterns

Sorting and Ticketing:

The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All thecomponents of one garment size are bought together. It is very important totake care that pieces cut from two different bolts (bundles) of fabric are notmixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-

bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing isthe process of mar king the cut components for shade matching precision, andsequence identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts onthe ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains thesize, bundle number and piece number and serves as important means to track the

parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.


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Cut panel checking:

The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection ofevery individual piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like

wrong grain line, inappropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric defectslike holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not within the acceptablequality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting componentchecking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. Therejected pieces are sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separatelycut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same number as the rejected ones.

Other mend able faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passedon. These will be spotted out during garment finishing or washing.

Bundling:

The checked components of one style and in one size ar e nowclubbed and bundled using ties. T he size of bundle depends upon therequirement of the production plant. Each bundle willcontain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cuttingdepartment issues the amount required by the production departmentwhen asked for.

EMBROIDERY

The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut componentsof a style for embroidery as stated in the production package. They check forany embroidery and follow up these departments accordingly. Blocks of

panels are sent are sent for embroidery, which are re- cut after receiving back.To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched together

temporarily before dispatch for the embroidery.

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from the bundle. T he fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the componentsto be fused.

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T he components along with the cut fusing material are kept between two papers sheets and the pack is passed through thefusing machine. By means of the temperature and the pressure

fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time.The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the

pieces are removed and re bundled.

PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT


The production floor does production in two types, once during pilot production wherethey have to produce about 150 200 garments for the new style this willtake about 40 55days.

The production floor will receive the details like,

the style or the garment,

number of operators required,

the batch for which the style has to be installed,

any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,

target for each day Breakup of the production quantity.

After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut partsfrom the cutting and sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory

stores for all the accessories that are required for the particular style then theystart the production for the new style.

Before starting the proper production the production floor does a processof batch-setting for the floor which is training the operators for the new stylethat has to be produced bulk, this teaching session will go on for about 3 4 days maximum. After this batch setting process the


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production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may befor 50 pieces for the entire day and then the production gradually increasesfrom 50 100 150 and so on, this will make the operators learn slowlyand precisely about the processes that has to be carried out for the particular

style.

Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting sectionthen the parts are prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned.After the assembling of the parts is done then there will be a line checking,where the shade matching and the measurements arechecked and sent.

During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking,they are

In-process checking. End line checking. Her e there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.

The garment making is divided into three different stages and at thesethree stages the checking is done.

The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundlesystem and each operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and therewill be about 15 20 pieces in each bundle and the operator completelyfinishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do thenext operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component ofdifferent garments.

The movement of the materials within the operators in the batch/line isgenerally zig zag motion which is followed. The checking person will be

present at a position where the garment is partially finished and it is asmentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than threeand this depends on the buyer as well as the number of components present in thegarment.

The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages

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the entire batch which is been allocated to them and they have the followingfunctions to perform,1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation andteach them the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work beingallocated tothem.4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then thesupervisor has to get him/her their material and ask them to work.5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their

best.6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and themanagement.

7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operators skilllevel whenever asked for.8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make surewho can be a better person to fit into that vacant place.9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.

10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by havinga friendly approach to them and also must make sure that none of them createany trouble for the factor at any time.

The production managers help the planning department during planning orallocating a particular line for the style by telling them the capacity of the lineand also telling them about the skills of the opera


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IED DEPARTMENT


The IED department has to work with many other departments as this

department gives the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread andtrims consumption criteria, operators skill level categorization and other relatedaspects hence they play a vital role in deter mining the cost of producing a single

piece of the garment and they also calculate the costof the factory for that particular style of garment.

The different departments with which the IED works are as follows.

The IED department helps the planning department to know the time

required for the production of that particular style of the garment by calculatingthe SAM value for it and they also help in knowing the capacity of thefactory based on which the planning department takes a decision if they haveto proceed with the item or no.

The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the given style for the initial costing and also calculates orcounts the accessories consumption by the style and gives all these details tothe merchandising department for the costing purpose because the entirecosting criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchantssuggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment

by modifying any of the steps and the method of doing it.

The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare thestyle bulletin which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to

be done for the garment and it also includes the length of the seams and thetypes of stitches that has to be carried out at different

places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval. Types ofthread (which is the TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories andits location different kinds of labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteriaunder which the finished garment has to be checked, the times at which theinspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style bulletin,this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data thanthat

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.This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their

skill level which is required for the production of the garment, they also set atarget to the batch for an hour, for a shift and for a month which will helpthem to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely completion of theorder or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator

based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their pieceof work on time and also maintain the quality of their work.

After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then theywill calculate the efficiency. T his efficiency is purely based on the dailyoutput of the batch as well as the single operator and then they come up withthe monthly output by the particular batch.

This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily ProductionReport), in this report they update the batch number, style/item number, actualoutput, committed output, SAM value of the garment (both actual and that

particular days SAM value), total production till date, average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working thatday or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it,information about the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will

be mentioned in this DPR. Based on the operator s performance which wouldhave been observed for a specified period of time, the department will allocatea grade to the operator which is as follows,

Skill type Grade

A Highly skilled

B Skilled

C Semi skilled

The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of,20% - Highly Skilled25% - Skilled55% - Semi skilled

This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of thestyle.

A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated ontimely bases.


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EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT


T he embroidery section is a department which comes into pictureonly when the particular style demands. The embroidery section is thecentralized and the second largest embroidery unit in Asia.

T he embroider y section receives the garment, style and theembroidery details from the merchandisers in the form of the hard copyformat which is generally maintained in company, the department willmaintain the file for all the formats received and they will also get a sample ofthe garment on which the embroidery has been already done and they will use this

as their reference sample / piece.

As soon as the department receives the details they check the designthat has to be done and they scan the design using the CAD software and thenthey digitize the design and check for the number of stitches involved, area thedesign has to cover, the style of the stitch involved for the design, thread colorsrequired, thread tax, starting point of the design on the garment while performingthe operation etc., all these things are calculated and tabulated in the softcopyformat and give to the merchandiser and after an approval from them they startthe further operation .

After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for thesamples that has to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done forabout 6 7 garments and it is something done against the actual or exactorder quantity. After the samples have been generated then they conduct the

pilot run in the embroidery section.

Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity thathas to be produced is known then they start the bulk production during the

production the embroidery action on the garment is done in two ways one isafter the entire garment has been sewn and the other case is after the garment

panels has been cut and before sewing them into a complete garment.

The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing flooror from the cutting department and then they start their embroidery process.After the embroidery is been done for the first set of the garment or the


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cut parts received then they send them to the trimming and the checkingsection for every machine there are operators for this process.

The operators are provided with hearing aids in this department

because of the maximum noise that is been produced by the machines.StartReceive designs from the merchantScan and punch designStrike- off of designSamples to be done against ordersConduct pilot run of the stylesStart bulk productionTrimming & checkingPackingDeliveryStyle reconciliationEnd

WASHING DEPARTMENT


Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then theyare sent to the washing department for the washing or finishing that has to bedone for that particular style according to the buyers specifications and henceit plays a vital role in the final feel and thetexture of the garment which has to match the specifications of the buyer 100%.

T he merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring theoriginal sample that will be sent to the merchants by the buyer and theywill also get the sample done in the factory and then they show both thesamples and the specifications and ask the washing department to match the

factory sample with the buyer sent sample with respect to the feel and thetexture, for this the merchandiser himself/herself comes to the washingdepartment in case of samples.

The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects like

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Type of the material.

T he texture that is under demand.

Types of labels that are been used in the garment.

Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a colored fabric).

Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment. Types of threads used for in sewing.

Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish.

The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.

T he sensitivity criteria of the fabric.

T he wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.

The sequence of the processes.

Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.

Duration of the treatment.

After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for thegarment they start try eating the garments in the desired sequence.

At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unitwise, suppose the garments which are white in color and which have to betreated in the similar manner then such styles are clubbed together irrespectiveof their styles.

After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyersspecifications. In this washing there are two types.

1. Wet processing2. Dry processing

First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is beenfollowed. In the dry processing there are four different types they are,1. Grinding2. Ripping or Blowout

3. Sandblasting4. Crinkling

After the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done iswet processing. Wet processing involves mainly two types, they are

1. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types of dyes which are reactive


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dyes and pigment dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in practiceand sometimes the usage of the dyes depends on the fabric and the buyer demandsand requirements.2. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are

taken to the washing process. There are different types of washing proceduresinvolved and they are classified as follows,Normal wash/ water wash / dip and drySoftener washDesire washEnzyme washStone enzyme washRubber ball washDenim wash

Bleach washTinting/ T- staining

Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing soat such situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dr y praccessing stage or else the original procedure that is followed in the company isthat first the garments are sent to the dry processing and then from there to the wet

pr accessing where it is first sent to the dyeing and then to the washing process.

After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydroextraction where in which a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro

extracting machine depending on the tumbler capacity and then the excess ofwater which had accumulated in the previous stages will be extracted bycompressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used forthat particular style / garment.

QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENTFunctioning of the Department:

Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same ruleapplied even to garment industries also. In order to maintain quality thequality assurance departments has split up their job into different stages ofmanufacturing and there are classified into fourmajor groups which are as follows.

Pre-production audit:

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In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the production and that is the sampling stage. Here the auditing isdone for all samples and precisely for the size set samples and also for the

pilot production garments. The size set samples are given importance to because they are mainly asked by the buyer for checking the dimensions ofthe garment hence an extra stress is given to thesesamples and the auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements ofthe garment and the measurements are checked at all the critical areas in thegarment.For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas likethe length of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, thedistance of the belt loops, etc.,

For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions

and also for the placement of the accessories and trims for example, thelabel attachment areas, etc.,Cutting audit:

In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment productionthe auditing is further divided into many other departments which are,1. Spreading2. Relay cut3. Band knife4. Shade5. Hard pattern

Sewing audit

In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas, they are1. In line audit:

Here the garments are checked during their different stages ofmanufacturing. Here the entire manufacturing process for a particular garment issplit into the required number of parts may be two three and then at theend of each stage the inspection is carried out by the person whose main job isauditing. For example if the garment that is being manufactured is a shirt then theentire manufacturing process is broken down into stages like, the finish offront, finish if back, sleeve attach finish and then the entire shirt. In thiscase the shirt is being checked at each stage and the auditing personnel will


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be provided by certain specifications and also the tolerance limits based on whichhe checks the garment. Here every single garment is checked.

End line audit:

Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over and thespecifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical

positions and then the placements of the labels.

Button/button hole :

In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the job is limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operatordoes it himself as and when he finishes his part of the job with thegarment and the operator will be given or taught about the specifications forthe garment to attach the button/ making the button holes.After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings andother related information will be recorded by the concerned departments in theirown formats and they will be sent to the respective departments for rectification

FINISHING DEPARTMENTFunctioning of the Department:

The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments

and it plays an equally important role in the final appearance of thegarment. T his department includes major lay of the following steps,

Trimming:

T his involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitchedareas.

Inspection

T he inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system andsometimes it depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100%inspection then the company has to do as specified.

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Semi pressing:

T his happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as itcomes from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for thegarments and then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing

process.

Pressing:

T he pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected andthe garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.

Tagging section:

Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing thenthey are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels,

price tags and miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once thetagging is done the garments are folded according to the buyersspecification and also they are either folded plainly or sometimes they arefolded after they are put to the hangers as per the

buyers specifications again. The packing material, PCB details, number of sizeratios that are supposed to be put in are all suggested by the buyer and the

packing is done according to thesespecifications.

Packing:

T he packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are severalcriteria for the packing of the garments they are as follows,There are generally two kinds of packing the garment,1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will

be specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag

packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arrangedin the carton box.2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged inthe carton boxes without putting them in the poly bag.

The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned isdone in different ways which is as follows,


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Solid Packing:

In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single

color and same size.For example, 20 shirts of a similar color say navy blue and the size say S will be

put in one carton box.

Ratio Packing:

In this method the carton box includes garments of same color but ofdifferent sizes according to the ratio.For example,

S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.

Mixed Packing

In this method the carton box includes garments of different colorsbut of same size or garments with different colors and different sizes in a

particular ratio form.

After the packing is done the garments ar e kept in the godown/stores until thebuyer sends the buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and

once the QC arrives he will check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and thensee if the garments has to be accepted or Srejected.

fresh project copy nandu

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