formulation of a balanced piece rate system for apparel manu

Formulation of Balance Piece Rate System

INTERNSHIP REPORT

ON

“FORMULATION OF A BALANCED PIECE RATE SYSTEM FOR

APPAREL MANUFACTURING”

(CASE STUDY)

SUBMITTED IN THE PARTIAL FULFILLMENT

OF POST GRADUATE

IN

APPAREL MANAGEMENT PROGRAMME

(PRODUCTION)

(2011-2013)

BY

UNDER THE GUIDENCE OF

INSTITUTE OF APPAREL MANAGEMENT

GURGOAN

Institute of Apparel Management 1


TABLE OF CONTENT

CONTENT PAGE NO.1. Abstract 12. LITRATURE REVIEW 23. OBJECTIVE 54. SCOPE 65. METHODOLOGY 76. INTRODUCTION 97. FINDINGS 128. CRITERIA FOR SCORE 189. ANALYSIS

GATHER 22PIPPING 24SIDE SEAM 26BOTTOM FOLD 28ATTACH LINING AND SHELL FABRIC 30TOP STITCH 32ELASTIC ATTACH 34DART 36

10 CONCLUSION 4111 RECOMMENDATION 4212 BIBLIOGRAPHY 4413 ANNEXTURE



LIST OF TABLES

CONTENT PAGE NO.1. DETAILS ABOUT SHRUG 142. DETAILS ABOUT TOP 153. DETAILS ABOUT SKIRT 164. DETAILS ABOUT TROUSER 175. SCORE CRITERIA 196. RATE LIST 207. SCORE FOR ALL OPERATIONS 218. RATE OF GATHER 239. RATE OF PIPPING 2510. RATE OF SIDE SEAM 2711. RATE OF BOTTOM FOLD 2912. RATE OF ATTACH LINING AND SHELL FABRIC 3113. RATE OF TOP STITCH 3314. RATE OF ELASTIC ATTACH 3515 RATE OF DART 36



LIST OF ILLUSTRATION

CONTENT PAGE NO.1. GATHER 222. DIFFERENCE OF RATE OF GATHER 233. PIPPING 244. DIFFERENCE OF RATE OF PIPPING 255. SIDE SEAM 266. DIFFERENCE OF RATE OF SIDE SEAM 277. BOTTOM FOLD 288. DIFFERENCE OF RATE OF BOTTOM FOLD 299. ATTACH LINING AND SHELL FABRIC 3010. DIFFERENCE OF RATE OF ATTACH LINING AND

SHELL FABRIC30

11. TOP STITCH 3212. DIFFERENCE OF RATE OF TOP STITCH 3313. ELASTIC ATTACH 3414. DIFFERENCE OF RATE OF ELASTIC ATTACH 3515. DART 3616. DIFFERENCE OF RATE OF DART 37



ABSTRACT

The aim of this project is to understand an existing piece rate system followed in J.A

International. The payment to the piece rate operator is done according to the number of

pieces produced or payment per piece. The company provides wages to the operators on the

bases of number of pieces produced by them.

During this project four styles were observed in the company and among those four styles

eight operations were observed. After the observation there was an effort made to formalize

the scoring system for the company so that they can follow a system though which the can

provide a fair piece rate to the workers. This scoring system is bases on the factors that

affect the rates, while making decision.

With the help of this system there was comparison of rates between the existing system and

the scoring that is provided. This gives you an idea that the company is able to provide 50%

of the operation the fair prices while other 50% the rate of the operations may vary.

Though the company may not provide fair rate to all the operations but yet for critical

operation a good thought is been put and fair prices are paid to the for such operation. The

company needs to bring a new system with which they can provide fair rate for the

operation.



LITERATURE REVIEW

Piece rate pay gives a payment for each item produced – it is therefore the easiest way for a

business to ensure that employees are paid for the amount of work they do. Piece-rate pay is

also sometimes referred to as a “payment by results system”.

Piece-rate pay encourages effort, but, it is often at the expense of quality. From the

employee’s perspective, there are some problems. In case production machinery breaks

down and if there is a problem with the delivery of raw materials that will slows production.

These factors are outside of the employee’s control – but could potentially affect their pay.

The answer to these problems is that piece-rate pay systems tend, in reality, to have two

elements:

• A basic pay element – this is fixed (time-based)

• An output-related element (piece-rate). Often the piece-rate element is only triggered by

the business exceeding a target output in a defined period of time.

Piece work pay provides an incentive. Workers earning a wage have no sense of urgency.

They will get the same wages whether they do their best or not; all they have to do is

produce enough to keep their job. There is no motivation to do more.

Piece rate is a "Performance Pay ". When workers receive an hourly wage, the more able

receive no reward for putting forth additional effort. As a result, they choose to reduce effort

to the minimum required. When a piece rate is paid, workers who produce more, earn more.

This provides an incentive to workers to put forth more effort."

Due to the extra efforts by a piece rate worker the everyday output increases. Meanwhile,

there is a drop of absenteeism. In a company where there is piece rate and salaried

employees, the People who like a piece rate are the most able; those who like an hourly rate

are the least able, so when companies institute a piece rate plan, employee turnover among

the most able goes down.



Productivity is normally defined as "output per unit of input". If workers are producing more

pieces per hour (increased labor productivity), and they are paid by the piece, then they get

paid more per hour. The employer's variable costs per unit remain the same, but they get

more units per hour (which reduces fixed price costs per unit, like electricity to light the

factory, rent, interest on loans to buy equipment, management costs, etc.).

The sewing line operators love piece rates. The companies try to set rates such that an

average seamstress exerting herself somewhat is able to exceed the state-mandated

minimum wage. Setting rates too low eliminates all motivation, as no matter how fast they

work, the operators will never break through minimum wage. The result of set point is that

average operators do well, and our superstars do very well indeed, earning very high hourly

rates.

The worker’s contract does not set any normal, minimum or maximum working hours in

relation to the piece to be produced or task to be performed.

The employer does not in practice control the hours that a worker works in relation to the

piece or task e.g. he does not determine his starting or finishing time, or the length of time

spent producing the pieces or performing the tasks.

The employer determines the ‘mean hourly output rate’ in relation to the type of piece or

task in question. The ‘mean hourly output rate’ is the average number of pieces produced in

an hour or the average number of tasks performed in an hour by workers of the employer

doing that work.

The drawbacks to such a system are also not less. The most serious problem associated with

a piece rate pay structure is administering it. Measuring worker output is not always a

straightforward proposition. The measurement of productivity in assembly line is problem.

However, a piece work pay system has few problems. It needs some type of quality control

system.

The argument against piece rates is that while they do motivate operators very well to push

as many pieces through their machines as possible in any given time, they are a direct



barrier to other initiatives. Operators see any new initiative as getting in the way of pushing

parts through the machines, and thus become resistant to the idea of any change at all.

Still, there are plenty of other situations where it would be relatively simple to institute a

piece rate pay structure. But few companies have done so, perhaps because, until now, it

wasn't clear that piece rate system can be a boon. The effect is so dramatic, since they are;

company probably wants to rethink on their compensation structure, although there are

costs involved. This has such an enormous effect on productivity; process parameters of

having a balance piece rate company could cut its prices.

Process parameters of operations exhibit characteristic technological values, which can be

measured in the course of sewing. They are divided into three groups, based upon the

characteristics of the operation of garment sewing

total time of the operation as whole and individual sub operations of garment sewing,

stitching speed, and

contour length and the curvature of the seam-connected parts.

The relation between process parameters of garment sewing operation and contour length of

the seam connected parts is most accurately shown during the acceleration of sewing and

stitching



OBJECTIVE

To understand the existing piece rate system in J.A International Pvt. Ltd

To understand the importance of piece rate system.

To collect data from the company and analyze it.

To have an in depth understanding of balance piece rate system.

The need to develop a balance piece rate system.

To observe and compare similar operations; and the reason for difference in rates.

To develop an in depth understanding of criteria that affects the payments to the

piece rate workers.

To develop a system with the help of which the operator gets paid according to the

work performed.



SCOPE

During the course of this project I have got in depth understanding of piece rate

system followed in J.A Internationals.

The project deals with four styles that were running during the course of the

project.

Observations are done on few operations so that in-depth understanding of the

existing system can be done.

To determine the parameters on the bases of which the piece rate should be

decided.

The score system is introduced during the project to know that the wages given to

the operator are fair or not.



METHODOLOGY

This project is a case study on “formulization of a balance piece rate system” that can be

followed. The project is an understanding of existing piece rate system and formalizing the

better system in J.A Internationals Pvt. Ltd.

During this project four styles are observed. Among the four styles sixteen operations were

keenly observed. Among those sixteen observations the two operations were similar. With

the help of this observation the rates that are given to the operator compared among the

similar operation.

To know if the piece rate system that is followed in the company is fair, we have given scores

to each criteria on bases which the decision should be made with the number of pieces. The

scoring system is such that it arrives at the particular rate that an operation should be given.

With the view of drawing up a competitive scale that can be used to arrive at the decision.

The procedure as follows

To asses and select operations from two different styles on rational bases for specific

items of similar nature.

To decide on which operation styles can be deemed to have the necessary level of

competence.

How to decide the criteria among various operations while the operations are being

performed.

I as part of my diploma project I have decided to formulate a scoring system. For this

purpose I have scored the operation on the bases various criteria.

The criteria for any operation that is performed are-:

Seam length

Seam type

Number of mark points

Parts that are pick and disposed

Alignment

Number of plies to be handled



The problem was that on one hand there are criteria’s like seam length or type of seam

which could be measured on the other hand the there as major criteria such as handling.

Evaluation handling was not possible so there was need to break the handling into various

elements like alignments; number of stoppages or number of points that where marked

during the operation.

At the same time rates are also decided. Minimum rate that is paid for the operation is

matched with the minimum score of any operation.

The score of all these operations are added and total score is matched with the rate of those

score. When the rate that is got from the score is then matched with the original rate and

comparison is done if the rates that are paid are fair or not.



INTRODUCTION

J.A Internationals is a family concern started in October, 1990 by Mr. Rohit Bal (CEO) with the

total asserts of 25 lakhs only and currently it is having a turnover of 35 crores. The company

deals with manufacturing of kids and women’s ready made garments.

J.A Internationals works on both salary and piece rate workers. The reason behind this is that

during the off season the piece rate workers are not ready to work and they need permanent

employees for such season. J.A Internationals has about 70 salaried sewing operator and 350

piece rate workers. The number of piece rate workers depends on the orders that are

available. Incase there is not sufficient work the piece rate operators search for new jobs.

The salary workers are employed to perform some specific operation like Over Lock, and

some other miner operations in which higher level of skill is not required. They look at piece

rate workers as incentive schemes to increase productivity as well as potential earning for

the workers. The piece rate worker performs most of the critical operations.

An average piece rate worker earns from about 4500 to 6000 a month and a highly skilled

worker can earn from 6000 to about 8000 a month in case there is sufficient work. The

payment for the piece rate worker is given every 15 days. On the interval of every 15 days

payment sheet is made with all the details of rate fixed for the operation, total quantity that

is produced. Operator wise payment list is made and payments are done accordingly.

The supervisor prepares the list of operations that are performed in a particular style and

also the rate that should be given for the particular operation. The rates are fixed after

third or forth day after the new style has started because the operator should also know

at what rate he is going to work. The rate list is shown to the production manager and he

on the bases of certain factors like type of machine, type of fabric, type of seam, amount

of handling required.

The rate of piece in J.A International is decided on the basis of few factors such as:-

1. Time Study

2. Fabric

3. Degree of Difficulty



4. Type of Seam

Time Study

Generally time study is taken when the pieces are being stitched .This is the major factor

which identifies cycle time for each process and to determine process time for each

operation. On the basis of time study done the price of the particular operation is

decided. Time study is being taken on regular basis as and when the new styles come in.

Fabric

Fabric is second most important factor which determines the price of the product. The

type of fabric and the handling of the fabric determine the rate of the operations.

E.g. if there is an operation like bottom fold but it is done on two different fabrics the rate

given for that operation is very different.

Linen fabric- the operational rate would be Rs1.25 because the handling of the linen

fabric is not easy and there is no folder used due to the nature of the fabric.

Cotton fabric – folders are efficiently used so the rate for bottom fold is 90 paisa. The

handling of cotton is not very difficult

Degree of difficulty

While different operations are done the degree of difficulty varies and the skill required

also varies.

The degree of difficulty depends on

Positioning, feeding and hand work piece

Contouring

Direction change

Critical stopping point

Fabric handling skills to accommodate fabric variation.



Type of seams

There are different types of seams on the bases of which payments are made. the

superimposed seam (SS), lapped seam (LS), bound seam (BS) flat seam (FS) and edge finish

(EF) .The payments are given according to type of seam and length of seam.

All this are kept in mind while finalizing the rate of the operations but there is no structured

way though which the rates are finalized in the company.

The existing system may take into consideration all the factors mentioned above but there is

no proper format or criteria on the bases of which these factors affect the rates. The

company needs to create a proper format though which they can finalize the rates. Just time

study or nature of fabric could be the deciding factor for the rates that are given.



FINDINGS

J.A Internationals fix there prices on the bases Single operation time and the fabric that is

being used. The rate fixed for the particular style is based on the judgment of the higher

management of the company. There is no systematic process in which the rates can be fixed

for the operation. The decision of the rate is purely on the bases of experience of the

management.

The observation is done on four styles that were running in the company and out of which

eight operations from those style have been observed. Each operation is taken from two

different styles. Even similar operations have different prices on the bases of seam length,

type of seam, alignment, parts that are pick and disposed, number of plies, number of

stoppages during the operation and mark points if required.

Process parameters and the aspects of their interaction are known and obvious if

technological operations of garment sewing for a particular situation are to be determined.

Most of the measurements performed to this end are done by hand, with stopwatches. As

individual technological operations are of extremely short duration, it is rather awkward to

perform measurements and write down the results by hand, not to mention the subsequent

analysis of the results obtained.

The values of some processing parameters, such as garment sewing total time, are

comparatively easy to determine, by simply measuring the time needed to perform the

operation. Duration of particular technological sub operations, once the observations on job

timing are recorded, an analysis of this data is carried out first to obtain basic time for the

job and to determine work content and standard time for job considering various allowances.

On the basis of the single operation time the decision of the rate of the operation is

determined.

Acceleration is related to contour length of the seam in question and to the number of

stitches the machine employs in machine-manual technological procedures of garment

sewing.



The impact of operation type and technological equipment on process parameters of

garment sewing

Technological processes of garment sewing consist of a number of different types of

technological operations. The exact number and the type of technological operations to be

used depend on the type, construction and the purpose of the article of clothing to be

produced. The technological operations differ by:

The form and the length of the seam,

The function of the seam and the place where it is positioned on the article of clothing,

The numbers of fabric layers to be sewn,

Material feeding methods and modes.

Long and straight seams allow for higher stitching speeds than short and curved ones. In

addition to seam length, its function and position on the article of clothing must be taken into

account. These two parameters may result in extremely different stitching speeds at equally

long seam contours. The length of the stitch is still another important parameter: shorter

stitches make higher speeds possible.

The kind of garment to be sewn and the shapes of the cutting parts define the types of

operations to be used, from which seam contour and seam length are derived. These two

parameters are of key importance, as material feed modes and average stitching speeds

depend upon them. Seam length and the shape of seam contour also influence the number

and the type of technological operations to be employed. Top stitching speeds depends on

the length of the seam contour and on the fabric feed method employed.



CRITERIA FOR SCORING

Seam Length- The length of seam, in sewing, is the length of the line where one or two

pieces of fabric are held together by thread. The seam length can be measured in cm or

inches.

Seam type- There are different classes of seams including some with one piece of

fabric involved.

Straight seam- The straight stitch with one or more ply is called straight seam.

Couture seam- The seam which is curved in shape is called couture seam.

Profile seam-The edge stitch is also called profile seam.

French seam-The equally acceptable seam, could be constructed using a folder or

multi needle machine, it is only possible on straight seam

Flat fell seam- these are referred to as flat seams because the fabric edges don’t

overlap. They may be butted together without a gap

Bound seam- the seam consist of an edge of material which is bound by another, with

the possibility of other components inserted into the bindings.

Alignment- The arranging of two or more fabrics in correct positions with respect to each

other so that they can stitched together.

Number of Stoppages – The number of times the machine stops while the operation is

performed. This could be when we change the direction of sewing.

Parts pick and disposed- The number of time the operator picks up the part and disposes the

same part during the time operation is performed.

The number of mark points- the number of time the operator marks the point on the

garment as a guideline with the help of magic pen or any pencil.



SCORE 1 2 3 4 5 Seam Length 0-20 cm 21-50 cm 51-80 cm 81-130 cm

131-200 cm

Type of seam

straight seam

couture seam/profile seam French seam

flat fell seam bond seam

No. of plies 2 plies 3 plies 4 plies 5 plies 6 pliesMarking points/ cutting 1 & 2 3 & 4 5 6 7 and moreNo. of Stoppage 1 & 2 3 & 4 5 & 6 7 & 8 9 & 10Alignment 1&2(times) 3&4(times) 5&6(times) 7&8(times) 9 &10No of parts pic/dispose 1 2 3 4 5

Each criteria is given score according to the degree of difficulty that is involved during the

operation

E.g. An operation has: - Score

Seam length- 50 cm 2

Type of seam- straight 1

No. of plies- 2 1

No of stopagged-0 0

Mark points- 0 0

Alignment-1 1

Parts pick and disposed- 2 2

Then each criterion would be given a score and the total score is calculated

The total score for this operation would be 7.



On the bases of these score, rate that should be given to the operator are fixed. The

minimum rate that is paid to the operator is Rs.0.40 and the minimum score the operator

gets is 5.

Rates fixed on the bases of score are:-

RATE (Rs.) SCORE0.40-0.60 50.60-0.80 60.80-1.00 71.00-1.20 81.20-1.40 91.40-1.60 101.60-1.80 111.80-2.00 122.00-2.20 132.20-2.40 142.40-2.60 152.60-2.80 162.80-3.00 173.00-3.20 183.20-3.40 193.40-3.60 203.60-3.80 213.80-4.00 224.00-4.20 234.20-4.40 244.40-4-60 254.60-4.80 264.80-5.00 275.00-5.20 285.20-5.40 295.40-5.60 305.60-5.81 315.80-6.00 325.00-5.20 335.20-5.40 345.40-5.60 355.60-5.81 365.80-6.00 37



Out of the four style these operation are taken and score are given to them on the criteria’s

The score given to all the operations

OPERATION Seam length

Type of seam

Marking points /cutting

No. of Stoppages

No of parts pick/dispose Alignment

No of plies Score

Rate

GATHER Skirt 5 1 0 0 2 2 1 11 1.1 Sleeve 2 1 0 2 2 0 0 7 0.6 PIPPING Top 3 5 1 4 3 3 3 22 3.5 Shrug 5 5 3 5 5 4 4 31 5.5 SIDE SEAM Top 5 1 2 1 2 3 1 15 1.5 Shrug 2 1 0 0 2 1 1 7 0.5 BOTTOM FOLD Top 4 1 0 1 2 2 1 11 1.25 Shrug 4 1 0 0 1 1 1 8 1 LINNING AND SHELL FAB Shrug 3 2 0 1 1 1 1 9 0.8 Skirt 5 1 0 1 1 2 1 11 1 TOP STICH Top 4 2 0 1 1 0 1 9 1 Trouser 4 2 0 1 2 0 1 10 0.8 ELASTIC Trouser 5 2 0 3 3 4 3 20 3.5 Skirt 5 2 1 4 4 5 4 25 4.5



DART Top 1 1 1 1 2 0 1 7 0.75 Shrug 2 1 2 2 1 2 1 11 0.8

ANALYSIS

GATHER

CRITERIA SKIRT Score Top (sleeve) ScoreSeam length 168 5 42 2Type of seam Straight Seam 1 Straight Seam 1Mark points No points

marked0 No points marked 0

No. of stoppages 1 stoppage 1 2 stoppages 1Parts pick/dispose 1 part 1 2 parts 2Alignment 2 times 1 No alignment required 0No of plies 2 plies 1 Single ply 0Total score 10 6

Gather which is done on skirt and on top are done with use of a folder in Single Needle Lock

Stitch Machine. They are usually done as a decorative purpose.

On the top the gathers are done at the hem of the sleeve. The length of each gather is 21 cm

with a straight seam. The handling of the sleeve is not much but the operator needs to pick

and dispose two parts of the garment. The rate that is paid to the operator for this operation

is 60 paisa which falls in the same range of price as per the score.

On the skirt the gathers are done at the waist, the lining and shell fabric are attached by

another operator. The operator then handles 2 plies and due to the length of the seam the



operator has to handle the fabric more as compared to sleeve gather. The operator has to re-

align the fabric 3 times because there are two plies. As the degree of difficulty is much

higher in this operation and the rate that is given to this operation is less. The price given for

this operation is less it should be Rs.1.60 -1.80 instead of Rs.1.10.

The reason for the difference between price given to the operator is due to the difference in

seam length, parts pick and disposed and the need for aligning the fabric during stitching.

Skirt Top Price provided to the operator Rs.1.10 Rs.0.60

Price that should be provided to the operator

Rs.1.40 -1.60 Rs.0.60-0.80



PIPPING

CRITERIA Top Score Shrug ScoreSeam length 70 cm 3 136 cm 5Type of seam Bias bound 5 Bias bound 5Mark points 2 points 1 5 points 3No. of stoppages 6stoppages 3 9 stoppages 5Parts pick/dispose 3 parts 3 5 parts 5Alignment 6 times 3 8 times 4No of plies 4 plies 3 4 plies 3Total score 21 30

Pipping is usually used to finish the raw edges. They are usually done on neck, sleeve and

armhole. This operation is done on Single Needle Lockstitch Machine. In this operation folders

could not be used.

Pipping on the top is attached to finish the neck line. The seam length of the neck line is 70

cm and the seam used is bias bound seam which is very difficult to sew if the folder is not

used so the degree of difficulty increases because the handling becomes more and

So the no. of parts pick and disposed are 3 and no. plies handled are about 4. The operator

has to align the seam again and again. The pipping at the neck the operator must be given

Rs.3.80 to 4.00 rather than giving him Rs.3.50



The pipping for the shrug is done to finish both neck and the armhole. The seam length is

about 136 cm. The shrug along with the bias seam also has elastic at the back. The operator

first attaches the pipping from the center back and then while finishing of the center back

the elastic has to be attached and stitched while sewing. The difficulty while sewing is high

because of the of the type of seam and the handling becomes very difficult due the

stoppages , parts that have to be to be pick and disposed . There is need for marking the

points at about 5 points but the pipping has to align at lest eight times. The prices set for

this operation are Rs.5.50 but he should be given Rs.5.60- Rs.5.80.

Top ShrugPrice provided to the operator Rs.3.50 Rs.5.50


Rs.3.60-3.80 Rs.5.40-5.60

The difference between the rates of both the pipping is that difference between the seam

lengths; parts pick and disposed, mark points, alignment and no. of plies.



SIDE SEAM

CRITERIA Top Score Shrug ScoreSeam length 150 cm 5 40 cm 2Type of seam Straight seam 1 Straight seam 1Mark points 4 points 2 0 points 0No. of stoppages 2 stoppages 1 0 stoppages 0Parts pick/dispose 2 part 2 2 parts 2Alignment 6 times 3 2 times 1No of plies 2 plies 1 2 plies 1Total score 15 7

Side Seam is a done on ever garment. Side seam requires two pieces of fabric laid one upon

another and they are sewn close to each other. Here the side seam is done on the top and

shrug.

The side seam done on top is 75 cm on each side. The marking is required on both the ends

of the sleeve as there are slits on both hem and sleeve. Both the sleeves required

to be aligned at lest 3 times on each side. The operator stop at lest once during sewing of

each seam and he has to align the garment again and again. The prices that are given to the

operator are correct according to the score.



The side seam of shrug is not sewn till the hem because the shrug had to be given for

embroidery. The seam length on each side is 20 cm and there are two parts to pick and

disposed. The operator has to handle only two plies and have to align time at lest once at

each side. The prices that are given for this operation are a less the operator should be paid

Rs.0.80 to 1.00 instead of Rs.0.50

There is so much difference between the rates of both the operation is due to the variation in

seam length alignment and the parts that are pick and disposed.



Rs.1.40-1.60 Rs.80- Rs.1



BOTTOM FOLD

CRITERIA Top Score Shrug ScoreSeam length 112 cm 4 108 cm 4Type of seam Straight seam 1 Straight seam 1Mark points No mark points 0 No point 0No. of stoppages 2 stoppages 1 0 stoppages 0Parts pick/dispose 2 parts 2 1 part 1Alignment 2 times 2 1 times 1No of plies 2 plies 1 2 plies 1Total score 11 8

Bottom fold is done to finish the raw edges at the hem. The hem is usually the last operation.

The bottom hem is done on top and shrug is done with the folder used in Single Needle Lock

Stitch Machine.

The seam length of the bottom fold for top is about is 112 cm. The bottom fold needs to be

done on two parts, front and back which means the parts pick and disposed are two and due

to the folder much alignment is not required. There are two plies used. The rate given for the

bottom fold is not Rs.1.25 and according to the score the rate that should be given for this

operation is Rs.2.00.

The bottom fold is done with folder and its seam length is 108 cm but due to the folder the

handling is minimized. The rate given for this operation is as per the score.



Top Shrug Price provided to the operator Rs.1.25 Rs.1.00


Rs.1.60-1.80 Rs.1.00-1.20



ATTACH LINING AND SHELL FABRIC

CRITERIA Shrug Score Skirt ScoreSeam length 78 cm 3 168 cm 5Type of seam Contour seam 2 Straight seam 1Mark points Not required 0 Not required 0No. of stoppages 2 stoppages 1 2 stoppages 1Parts pick/dispose 2 parts 1 2 parts 1Alignment 1 times 1 2 times 2No of plies 2 plies 1 2 plies 1Total score 9 11

Attach lining and shell fabric is a superimposed seam. The lining is attached by a straight

seam to the main fabric. The attachment here is done on shrug and side seam.

The seam length of shrug is 78cm and the contour seam is used as it’s a curved seam so it

requires more handling. The number of stoppages are 2 and lining and main fabric picked

and disposed. Two plies are being used and that requires to be aligned. The rate provided to

the operator is less as they should be paid around Rs.1.20 to Rs.1.40.

The seam length at the waist of a skirt is 168 cm. The operator has to handle 2 parts, the

shell fabric and lining. While joining the two plies they are aligned twice. The operator has to

stop three times due to the length of the seam. The rate given for this operation is Rs.1 but

the price given according to the score is Rs1.60.to Rs.1.80



Shrug SkirtPrice provided to the operator Rs.0 .80 1.00


Rs.1.20-1.40 Rs.1.60-1.80



TOP STICH

CRITERIA Top Score Trouser ScoreSeam length 87 cm 4 90 cm 4Type of seam Profile seam 2 Profile seam 2Mark points No points 0 No points 0No. of stoppages 2 stoppage 1 2 stoppage 1Parts pick/dispose 1 part 1 2 part 2Alignment Not required 0 Not required 0No of plies 2 plies 1 2 plies 1Total score 9 10

Topstitch is usually done on the edge or done to properly finish a stitch. Topstitch is done on

top and side seam of the trouser

The top stitch on the top is done at the yoke. The yoke was attached on the front panel and

to finish the yoke topstitch is given. The seam length is 87 cm and there are two stoppages

at the edge where there is a turn at the same time. There are 2 plies on which topstitch is

given but there is only one part to pick and disposed. The rate given to the operator is

Rs.1.00 but instead the operator should be paid about Rs1.20 to 1.40.

Topstitch is done on the side seam of the trouser. The length of the side seam is 45 cm each

side. The operator has to handle two parts while sewing the trouser. The rate given to the

operator is Rs.0.80 he should be given Rs.1.40 for this operation.



Top Trouser Price provided to the operator Rs.1.00 Rs.0. 80


Rs.1.20 -1.40

Rs1.40-1.60

ELASTIC ATTACH



CRITERIA Trouser Score Skirt ScoreSeam length 60 cm*3 5 49cm*4 5Type of seam Profile seam 2 Profile seam 2Mark points No mark point 0 2 mark point 1No. of stoppages 6 stoppage 3 8 stoppage 4Parts pick/dispose 3 parts 3 4 parts 4Alignment 7 times 4 10 times 5No of plies 4 plies 3 5 plies 4Total score 20 25

Belt is operation that can be given to both trouser and skirt but attaching belt or elastic to

the waist is different in both the cases.

In trouser the elastic is attached together and elastic is been inserted in the trouser at the

waist. There is no separate belt required. The operator stops about 5 to 6 time during the

operation. There are four plies the operator has to handle while sewing. There are lot of

handling required for this operation as there are 4 plies to be handles and the have to be

aligned again and again. The rate that is provided to the operator is fair.

The skirt also has separate belt attached to the waist and elastic is inserted into belt. The

handling is more as there are 5 plies to be handled. The operators stops about 8 time and

align about 9 to 10 times during the whole process. This makes the handling very difficult

and the rate paid for this operation is 4.50 paisa.



Trouser Skirt Price provided to the operator Rs.3.50 Rs.4.50


Rs.3.40-3.60 Rs.4.40-4.60

DART



CRITERIA Top Score Shrug ScoreSeam length 8cm*2 1 20cm*2 2Type of seam Straight seam 1 Straight seam 1Mark points 2 points 1 4 points 2No. of stoppages 2 stoppages 1 2 stoppages 1Parts pick/dispose 2 parts 2 2 parts 2Alignment No alignment 0 2 times 1No of plies 2 plies 1 2 plies 1Total score 7 10

Dart gives a proper fit to the garment. Dart is given here at the shoulder of the top and the

other operation at back of shrug.

The seam length of a dart at top is 8 cm on the both sides. There are 2 mark points one at

the left side and other at the right. There is are 2 plies to handle there are 2 stoppages and

parts pick and disposed are also 2. The rate given to this operation is Rs.0.75 while the

operator should be paid around Rs.0.80- to Rs.1.00.

The seam length of the dart is 20 cm each side. The dart points have to be marked before

they are stitched. In this dart also there are two part one left and one right. The rate given

for this operation is only Rs.0.80 but the operator should get minimum of Rs.1.40





Rs.0.80-1.00 Rs.1.40-1.60

With the existing piece rate system, the computing of piece rate is not methodical because

of which few operation are paid the accurate prices while few operation are not paid

sufficiently



The there are few operation which have the required rate while other operation have lot of

difference according to the scoring system

The operations with the major difference are:-

Gather on skirt

Side seam on shrug

Bottom hem on top

Attach lining on shrug

Attach lining in skirt

Topstitch on the top

Topstitch on the trouser

Back dart on shrug

The operation with no difference of the scoring rate or very miner difference of rate:-

Piping on top

Piping on shrug

Elastic attached on skirt

Elastic attach on trouser

Side seam on top

Bottom fold on shrug

Gathers on top

The operation with no difference of the scoring rate or very miner difference of rate:-

The operations like piping and elastic attach requires a lot of material handling. The operator

has to be highly skilled to perform such operations. If the operator is highly skill the material

handling will go down. The step involved in performing the operation will not be reduced but

due to the skill of the operator the number of stoppages and alignment can be reduced.

The payment made to these operation is accurate according to the scoring system may be

because a lot of factors are taken into consideration. The factors such as number of seams

required to perform the operation, seam length and degree of difficulty involved. The reason



for accurate payment for such operation is the nature of the operation. Major factors are

taken into consideration while making decision on the rate of such critical operation. As these

require higher skill and operator with the higher skill will not work until he is not paid the

correct price. On the other hand such operations take a lot of time which means that the

operator will produce less. If he does not get proper remuneration for his skills he will not

work and the company will have to part from there skilled workers.

There are other operations like side seam of the top where the armhole and side seam are

stitched together. This operation requires material handling. The operation requires marking

and proper alignment. That is the reason there is an accurate price provided for this

operation.

The operations with the major difference are:-

There are operations like gather on skirt where the operator could be paid more, but because

they are small operation much thought has not been given to the skill required to the job.

Though this operation is not very critical but seam length of the operation is very long and

the there are two plies that the operator has to handle and the operator has to align these

plies may be all these aspects were not taken into consideration while the rate for this

operation was decide.

In the similar manner the bottom fold on the top has been paid less not looking at the

handling involved in the operation. There are two parts, the front and the back that has to be

folded and the length of each part is 56 cm. The operator though he is using the folder has to

align again and again. While making a decision on the payment all these aspects might not

have been taken into consideration

In other operations like attach lining and top stitch these operations may seam simple and

due to which the remuneration paid for these operations are also not sufficient.

The smaller operations are given almost fixed prices; many changes are not made on the

small operation. For e.g. the price that is fixed for bottom fold with the seam length of 50 cm

may be paid Rs.1 and in the other style if the bottom fold is 62 cm same price is paid for that



operation. but on the other hand the operations which are critical are given a good thought

before making any decision on prices that should be given. the managements looks at all the

aspects of the operation and then decide what is the correct price for his operation.



CONCLUSION

J.A international payment system for their workers is very interesting as the have piece rate

as well as salary workers. The piece rate workers are paid on the bases of the number of

pieces they produce. Some times if the worker is not satisfied with rates he also leaves the

work and goes away. On the other hand sometimes the management has to make changes

according to the demands of the operator. Management decision is the final decision on the

rates that are set for the style.

During this project sixteen operations are analyzed, and two operation of similar nature. Out

of which eight operations have accurate prices, paid to the operator. In these eight

operations four of them are critical operations, which require higher skill level. The rest four

operations are small operations which may not require a highly skilled operator.

On the other hand, there are small eight operations which have a lot of difference in the rate

that are given to the operator. These operations may not be critical but these operations are

also very important and fair payment should be given for this operation. If the operator’s

wages are low, few workers could afford to leave early. It seemed, very low and uncertain

wages are more likely to result in workers leaving the job early due to simple disgust.

If the piece rate workers are paid less for an operation it could be because the payment leads

workers to drive themselves to high intensity and long hours. With such operation the

operator’s incomes raises a little, with the increased effort. So the company needs to make

an effort to avoid situations where the operators are paid less.

The company can formulate a system which helps it to decide the rate on which the

payments of the operator should be made. The management needs to initiate a system

which can help them to make accurate decision.



RECOMMENDATION

The rate-fixing should be done from accurate knowledge instead of more or less by guess-

work, the motive for holding back on work, and endeavoring to deceive the employers as to

the time required to do work, is entirely removed, and with it the greatest cause for hard

feelings and war between the management and the men. Individual abilities vary, therefore

output and wages vary from individual to individual and this produces a wage hierarchy and

competition among workers.

It is for the common interest of both the management and the men to cooperate in every

way, so as to turn out each day the maximum quantity and best quality of work. The piece

wages reduce the need for direct supervision doesn't mean that workers are left entirely on

their own. With standards set for the number of pieces produced (and hence the time and

intensity of work), the management has to make sure that the workers don't create the

illusion of having met that standard by working fast but producing shoddy products.

Hence there is need for "quality control". In any piece work situation, there must be quality

control inspectors who examine the quality of the pieces produced to make sure that the

quality as well as the amount and intensity of work time are up to snuff. If the number of

pieces being produced is large, then it is common place for only a random sample to be

checked for quality. If the number is small, all can be checked.

With piece work the need for direct "superintendence" is reduced or even eliminated;

workers should be forced to work fast and well to meet the going standard of production

under the threat of producing less and earning less..

The differential rate system of piece-work consists briefly, in offering two different rates for

the same job, a high price per piece in case the work is finished in the shortest possible time

and in perfect condition, and a low price if it takes a longer time to do the job, or if there are

any imperfections in the work. (The high rate should be such that the workman can earn

more per day than is usually paid in similar establishments.) This is directly the opposite of



the ordinary plan of piece-work in which the wages of the workmen are reduced when they

increase their productivity.

One of the chief advantages derived from the above effects of the system is, that it promotes

a most friendly feeling between the men and their employers and so renders labor problems

unnecessary.

The company, however, should seeks not only to secure the best superintendents and

workmen, but to surround each department of his manufacture with the most carefully

woven net-work of system and method, which should render the business, for a considerable

period at least, independent of the loss of any one man, and frequently of any combination of

men.

In order to earn living wage workers must work hard, fast and well to produce enough pieces

- quite irrespective of whether anyone is looking over their shoulder. The costs of supervision

are essentially passed from the management to the workers as they internalize the discipline

of piece work and impose work on themselves. This self-imposition of work, of course, goes

against workers' instinctive resentment and resistance to suffering the indignities of

alienating work - doing what some one else says to do, they way they say to do it, for their

profit and enrichment, and so on. The piece workers, therefore, pay the psychological costs

not only of alienation but of the hour-to-hour experience of imposing that alienation on

themselves.

The manufactures are produced cheaper under it, while at the same time the workmen earn

higher wages than are usually paid.



BIBLIOGRAPHY

Web Site

www.gsb.stanford.edu

www.historymatters.gmu.edu

www.pursuit.co.za/archive/junjul02_ piece .htm

www.dti.gov.uk/er/nmw/fpr_final_guidance.pdf

www.gsb.stanford.edu/

www.cnr.berkeley.edu/

www.palletenterprise.com

www.fashion-incubator.com

www.asapofga.com/lit_pw.php

www.amrc.org.hk/4507.htm

www.cwaller.de/vacuumsealers.htm

www.triz-journal.com/archives/1999/12/c/index.htm

www.nova.edu/ssss/QR/QR6-2/zucker.html


http://www.nova.edu/ssss/QR/QR6-2/zucker.html

http://www.triz-journal.com/archives/1999/12/c/index.htm

http://www.cwaller.de/vacuumsealers.htm

http://www.amrc.org.hk/4507.htm

http://www.asapofga.com/lit_pw.php

http://www.fashion-incubator.com/

http://www.palletenterprise.com/

http://www.cnr.berkeley.edu/

http://www.gsb.stanford.edu/

http://www.dti.gov.uk/er/nmw/fpr_final_guidance.pdf

http://www.pursuit.co.za/archive/junjul02_piece.htm

http://www.historymatters.gmu.edu/

http://www.gsb.stanford.edu/


Annexure



SHURUGOPERATION SAM M/C TYPE OF

M/CNO. OF

PLIES

TYPE OF SEAM

SEAM LENGTH SAL/

PCS RATE Bust dart ( shell fabric) 0:38 1

SNLS 2 Straight seam 8 cm PCS RATE 0.6

Back dart ( shell fabric) 0:50 1SNLS 2 Straight seam 40cm

PCS RATE 0.8

Bust dart ( lining fabric) 0:38 1SNLS 2 Straight seam 8 cm

PCS RATE 0.6

Back dart (lining fabric) 0:50 1SNLS 2 Straight seam 40 cm

PCS RATE 0.8

Join front panel 0:47 1SNLS 2 Straight seam 39 cm

PCS RATE 0.7

O/L front panel 0:10 1 3 TH O/L 2 39 cm O/L zip guard 0:10 3 TH O/L 2 32 cm zip guard attach 0:45 1

SNLS 5 Straight seam 32 cm PCS RATE 0.8

Zip guard making 0:45 1SNLS 2 Straight seam 38 cm

PCS RATE 0.6

Shell Fabric O/L(center back ) 0:20 1 3 TH O/L 1 60 cm Lining fabric O/L(center back ) 0:20 1 3 TH O/L 1 60 cm Join side seam (lining fabric)(half)

0:25 1SNLS 2 Straight seam 20cm

PCS RATE 0.5

O/L side seam (lining fabric)(half)

0:10 15 TH O/L 2 20cm

Join side seam ( shell fabric)(half)


PCS RATE 0.5

O/L side seam ( shell fabric)(half)

0:10 5 TH O/L 2 20cm

Hem the lining fabric 0:.50 2SNLS 1 Straight seam 104cm

PCS RATE 1

Hem the shell fabric 1:10 SNLS 1 Straight seam 108 cm

PCS RATE 1.25

Attach lining and shell fabric 0:45 1SNLS 2 Conture seam 78cm

PCS RATE 0.8

Attach piping at the neck and A/H

5:30 7SNLS 4 Bais bound 136cm

PCS RATE 5.5

Attach zipper 3:40 4SNLS 3 Straight seam 30cm

PCS RATE 2.25

Seam on center back ( shell fabric)


SALARY

Seam on center back (lining fabric)

0:25 SNLS 1 Straight seam 30cm

SALARY

Attach strap 0:30 1SNLS 6 Straight seam 8 cm

PCS RATE 0.6

TOPOPERATION SIN MACHINE

TYPE OF M/C

NO. OF

PLIES TYPE OF SEAM SEAM LENGTH

SAL/PCS RATE

Back dart 1:04 3SNLS 2 Straight seam

8cm (each)

Piece rate 0.75

Sleeve gather 0:30 1SNLS 1 Straight seam

21cm(each)

Piece rate 0.6

Front gather 0:21 1SNLS 1 Straight seam 23cm

Piece rate 0.4



Front yoke att 2.41 7SNLS 2 Straight seam

87cm (each)

Piece rate 1.5

Front yoke O/L 0:48 13 TH O/L 2

87cm (each) Salary

T/s on front yoke 1.53 2SNLS 3 Profile seam

87cm (each)

Piece rate 1

Pipping att/finish 6:30 7SNLS 3 Bais bound

70cm(each)

Piece rate

Shoulder attach 1:45 2SNLS 2 Straight seam

12 cm(each)

Piece rate 0.75

Shoulder O/L 0:11 15TH O/L 2

12 cm (each) Salary

Sleeve attach 3.07 3SNLS 2 Conture seam

49 cm (each)

Piece rate 1

Arm hole O/L 0:54 25TH O/L 2

49 cm (each) Salary

Sleeve placket making 1:44 3SNLS 3 Straight seam

20cm (each)

Piece rate 1.6

Sleeve pipping 4:32 6SNLS 3 Bais bound

22 cm (each)

Piece rate 2.5

Side seam attaching 2:30 3SNLS 2 Straight seam

75 cm(each)

Piece rate 1.5

Side seam O/L 1:26 25TH O/L 2

75 cm(each) Salary

Slits(making) fold 1:41 3SNLS 2 Straight seam

20 cm (each)

Piece rate 1.6

Bottom hem 2:42 3SNLS 3 Conture seam 112 cm

Piece rate 1.25

Loop making 0:50 1SNLS 4 Straight seam

1.5 cm (each)

Piece rate 0.9

SKIRTOPERATION SAM MACHIN

ETYPE

OF M/CNO. OF PLIES

TYPE OF SEAM

SEAM LENGTH

SAL/PCS RATE

Bottom fold 0:38 1 SNLS 3 Straight seam 168 cmPiece rate

Lace attach 1:40 2 SNLS 2 Couture seam 164cmPiece rate 3.5

Belt 7:08 8 SNLS 5 Straight seam 50cmPiece rate 4.5

Side seam (linning) 0:36 1 SNLS 2 Straight seam 18cm(each)

Piece rate 0.8

Re cutting Piece rate 1.25

Gather 1:00 1 SNLS 1 Straight seam 168cmPiece rate 1.1

Shifly and linning att 0:40 1 SNLS 2 Straight seam 168cmPiece rate

O/l lace 0:26 1 3 TH O/L 2 Straight seam 164cm Salary

O/l side(linning) 0:24 1 5 TH O/L 2 Straight seam 18cm Salary



O/l side(shifly) 0:24 5TH O/L 2 Straight seam 25cm Salary

Side seam (linning) 2:54 1 SNLS 2 Straight seam 18cm(each)

Piece rate 0.8

TrouserOPERATION SAM MACHIN

ETYPE

OF M/CNO. OF PLIES

TYPE OF SEAM

SEAM LENGTH

SAL/PCS

Join front panel 0:53 1 SNLS 2 Straight seam 25cmPiece rate

Join back & front 1:03 1 SNLS 2 Straight seam 44cmPiece rate

Topstitch on front rise 1 SNLS 2 Profile seam

Operation 1 0:11 24cmPiece rate

Operation 2 0:46

Topstitch on back rise 0:24 1 SNLS 2 Profile seam 29cmPiece rate

Stitch side seam 1:57 1 SNLS 2 Straight seam 45cmPiece rate

O/l side 0:22 1 3 Th O/L 2 45cm

Join inward seam 0:41 1 SNLS 2 Contour seam 40cmPiece rate

Bottom hem 1:42 2 SNLS 3 Straight seam 34cm(each)

Piece rate

O/l inward seam 0:14 2 40cm

Top stitch on side seam 1:52 2 SNLS 2 Contour seam 60cmPiece rate

Attach lace 1:53 2 SNLS 1 Contour seam34cm(each)

Piece rate

Stitch on fly 0:08 SNLS 2 Contour seam 16cmPiece rate

O/l back crotch 0:07 1 2 26cm

O/l front crotch 0:16 2 23cm

Marking of front topstitch 0:13 6



Elastic SNLS 3 Contour seam 60cmPiece rate

Operation 1 0:55 4

Operation 2 0:18

Operation 3 3:03 Operation 4 0:26


formulation of a balanced piece rate system for apparel manu

Documents

sm mark points

seam mark

join side

criteriaseam

hourly output

piece rate

plies total

provide fair