formulation development of a skin rejuvenating cream

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Submitted toDr. Ganga Srinivasan Professor,SPTM, NMIMS.

By Parul Dixit M.Pharm (Pharmacology)

IINTRODUCTIONSKIN REJUVENATION:The therapies are used to perk up your skin to restore its youthful appearance are termed as skin rejuvenation therapies. Skin rejuvenating products must address skin clarity, darkening & pigmentation , loss of firmness, agespots, acne and uneven skin tone, which cause a decline in the skin s over all youthful appearance.

Skin rejuvenation can be brought about by: Decreasing Skin pigmentation Slowing down the aging process of the skin and removal of wrinkles Keeping the skin effectively Moisturized to preserve the supple texture of the skin.

Global Market & usage of Rejuvenating Creams Concept of skin rejuvenation is a relatively new concept, earlier moisturizing creams, anti-wrinkle creams, anti-acne creams held a large portion of the cosmetic consumer market. Product expectations and skin care needs for this large, consumer group go beyond addressing fine lines and wrinkles to actually treating skin tone and skin fitness Women not only want to slow the aging process and but also attain that elusive rosy glow. As a result , the U.S. skin rejuvenation market was worth $4 billion in 2007.

Various Procedures for Skin Rejuvenation

Recent Advances in Delivery Systems and Product development .Many facial treatment products now provide the proven benefits of AHAs with soothing ingredients to help eliminate irritation, as well as various anti-oxidants, enzymes, vitamins, botanicals, and sunscreens. More sophisticated with new combinations of ingredients, delivery systems play an increasingly important role.

Formulators are challenged with the problem of transporting active ingredients to the skin that can moisturize, exfoliate and protect all at once.

Many cosmetic companies still employ conventional cream bases as delivery systems

Lancome unveiled new technology in a glycerinenriched water droplet which holds the vitamin C, protecting it for optimum effectiveness.

L'Oreal's patented micro-sphere delivery

Christian Dior another cosmetic company is utilizing liposomes for delivery of active ingredients.

Herbal Rejuvenating CreamsIn the Indian Market the following rejuvenating creams are available: Recova Paras Pharmaceuticals Himalaya Anti-Wrinkle & rejuvenating cream Neova Replenix green tea cream Revale anti-aging and rejuvinating cream Avon Skin rejuvenating cream


The objective of this project work is Formulation Development of a Herbal Rejuvenating Cream.

PLAN OF WORKSelection of Active Ingredients & Herbs HPTLC of the individual Herbal Ingredients Selection of ingredients for a cream base Optimization of a Cream Base Preparation of the rejuvenating herbal Cream Evaluation of viscosity, appearance and PH of the cream in comparison with a standard Marketed Preparation Evaluation of the cream using HPTLC

SELECTION OF HERBS/ACTIVE INGREDIENTS The following active ingredients were selected based on there skin rejuvenating properties : Glycerrhiza Green Tea Extract Aloe Extract Jojoba Oil Curcuma Longa Extract Vitamin C

GLYCERRHIZALicorice root has been used in skin care for millennia. According to the National Cancer Institute it has "potential antiinflammatory, antioxidant activities. Licochalcone is a molecule contained in licorice root extract which helps control oil production, and helps calm and soothe acne-prone skin. It is suitable for sensitive skin, and imparts a natural glow to the skin. The major bioactive constituent is glycyrrhizin.

GREEN TEA EXTRACT The polyphenols found in tea mainly belong to the subtype called catechins (about 25%). Green tea appears to exert sun damage protection by quenching free radicals and reducing inflammation rather than by blocking UV rays. Since exposure to sunlight is a major factor that ages the skin, green tea cream could help prevent premature aging. Green tea constituents may be useful topically for promoting skin regeneration & wound healing. The major active ingredients are epicatchecin, epigallectin, gallactocatchecin etc.


Curcumin protects skin by quenching free radicals and reducing inflammation through nuclear factor-KB inhibition. Curcumin treatment also reduced wound-healing time, improved collagen deposition and increased fibroblast and vascular density Tetra Hydro Curcuminoids are colorless compounds present in turmeric that might

have antioxidant and skin-lightening properties Turmeric acts as a free radical scavenger and antioxidant, inhibiting lipid peroxidation and oxidative DNA damage. Hence helps in restoration of youthful and glowing skin

VITAMIN C Also known as ascorbic acid, is key to the production of collagen, a protein that aids in the growth of cells and blood vessels and gives skin its firmness and strength It is a potent anti-oxidant and hence scavenges free radicals which are responsible for fecilitating the process of aging

Aloe Vera Aloevera increases the activity of the fibroblasts in the tissues so the fibroblasts produce more collagen and elastin fibers and that reduces wrinkling. Aloe is also active against skin infections and is effective in treatment of acne. It is an excellent skin moisturizer that keeps the skin increases the strength and synthesis of skin tissue. The active ingredients include alloin, aloe-emodin etc

Jojoba Oil Its excellent inherent emollient and moisturizing properties coupled to its oxidative stability properties make it one of the world s top lipid (oil) cosmetic ingredients. Jojoba can be heated to 370C over a 96-hour period without displaying degradation in general composition and carbon chain length. In addition to thermal stability jojoba also has unsurpassed oxidative stability


HPTLC ANALYSIS OF HERBAL EXTRACTSHPTLC Silica gel F-60-254 (10x10cm) plate with 200 m thickness was used. A sample volume of 5 l was loaded on a plate of 5 mm band with automatic applicator. Development of plate was done in 10X10 cm twin trough chamber, saturated for 30 min. Slit Dimensions 1x4 mm & 40 mm/sec scanning speed. A distance of 60 mm from lower edge of the plate was used for development.

Herbal Extract Glycerrhiza Extract

Solvent 70% Methanol 70% Methanol Methanol

Mobile Phase chloroform-methanolwater (6.5 :3.6 :0.75) toluene, acetone, formic acid (9:9:2) Chloroform : Methanol (9.25:0.75) Chloroform: Ethyl Acetate (7.5:2.5) Hexane: Ethyl Acetate (9:1)

Wavelength 254 nm

Green Tea Extract

285 nm

Turmeric Extract

430 nm

Aloe Extract


260 nm

Jojoba Extract


280 nm

Preparation of Cream BaseFacial creams formulations include many kinds of formulations, depending on the nature of the skin or on the desired effects. Either protection against pollution and oxidation is needed or anti-wrinkle activity. Actives may also antibe added in order to correct an oily/ greasy skin, a dry or a sensitive skin. Many formulations are basically Oil in Water emulsions For a typical oil in water cream In a Cream formulation, the water-base percentage is about 60-75 % and the oil-base is about 20-30 % of the total, with the other percentages being the emulsifier agent, preservatives and additives for a total of 100 % . The base was so selected to get a smooth and flippant feel, without being greasy/oily.

FORMULATIONOIL PHASE Oil Phase Ingredients Stearic Acid Glyceryl Monostearate Cetyl Alcohol Cocoa Butter Jojoba Oil Mineral Oil Isopropyl Myristate Lanolin Lavender Oil Trial-1 Trial-2 4% 2% 2% 4% 1% 1% qs 3% 2% 1.5% 1% 1% 4% 1% qs Trial3 3% 1.5% 1% 1% 1% 3% 1% 1% qs Properties Emollient & smoothening Self Emulsifying Wax Humectant Moisturizing & emollient Active Ingredient Oil phase Absorption Enhancer& Emulsifier Moisturizing Perfume

WATER PHASEWater Phase Ingredients Glycerin Propylene Glycol Allantoin PEG 400 Tri-ethanolamine Methyl Paraben Aloe Extract Ascorbic Acid Green Tea Extract Turmeric Extract Glycerrhiza Extract 0.2% 0.1% 5% 1% 1% 0.5% 1% 0.5% 0.2% 0.1% 3% 1% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 1% 0.2% 0.1% 4% 1% 0.5% 0.2% 0.5% Thickening, Humectant Emulsifyer & PH adjustment Preservative Active Ingredient Active Ingredient Active Ingredient Active Ingredient Active Ingredient Trial -1 Percent 3% 1% Trial -2 Trial 3 Properties Percent Percent 2% 2% 0.5% 2% 3% 1% Aqueous Phase/Moisturizing Humectant Moisturizing and Keratolytic

PROCEDURE FOR FORMULATIONIngredients of the Oil Phase except for glyceryl monostearate were weighed and transferred to a beaker. lyceryl monostearate was melted at - * and other ingredients of the oil phase were added to it to form a clear sol tion In a separate beaker, ingredients of the water phase were weighed and transferred to beaker All the ingredients of the water phase were heated till * on a water bath and then methyl paraben was added.


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