formulation and evaluation of herbal lipstickslipstick is poured into metal or plastic mold, the mix...

Pharmacological and Pharmaceutical Reports, 1-12 | 1

Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lipsticks

K. Akilandeswari a,*, N. Shanthini a, A. Vinitha a, M.R. Nithya kalyani a

a Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, University College of Engineering, Anna University, BIT campus, Tiruchirappalli,

Tamilnadu, India.

*Corresponding Author

K.Akilandeswari

([email protected])

Tel.: 0431-2407946

Received : 01-04-2018 Accepted : 15-04-2018

1 Introduction

ABSTRACT: The cosmetics are incredible in demand since historical time till day as it has become part of our culture and fashion. Lipsticks are most widely used to enhance the beauty of lips and it also greatly help in maintaining health and happiness. With respect to this aim and objective, an effort was made to frame herbal lipsticks by using coloured natural pigments of Alkanna tinctoria, and the lipsticks were evaluated on their sensory analysis such as spreading, hardness, shine and gloss to obtain a satisfactory product. The preparation of these lipsticks includes natural ingredients like Alkanna tinctoria, carnauba wax, olive oil, coconut oil, peppermint oil, castor oil, almond oil. Due to various adverse effects of available synthetic preparation, the present work was conceived to formulate an herbal lipstick having minimal or no side effects which will extensively use by the women of our society with great indemnity and contentment. . Keywords: Alkanna tinctoria, carnauba wax, herbal lipstick, cosmetics

Cosmetics and personal care products have played

an essential role in our lives for thousands of years. Food

and drug cosmetic act defines cosmetic as “an article

intended to be rubbed, poured, sprayed on, introduced

into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part

there off or cleansing, beautifying, promoting

attractiveness, or by altering the appearance without

affecting structure or functions [1]. The product included

in this definition are skin moisturizer, lipstick, nail polish

etc. some lipsticks sucks moisture from lip most of them

are very meticulous about hydration and are made to

preserve the natural state of lip as most people leave their

sensitive tip to the mercy of sun even though they are

most conscious about protecting the rest of face. As a

result, human lips can become dry and chapped easily

therefore it is vital to protect the lip by using lipstick

which acts as sunscreen to protect it from harmful UV

rays. Herbs are invaluable gift of nature; It has been

considered as symbol of safety. These herbal plants are

used by human in many purposes like food, medicine and

cosmetics. An assortment of lipstick is available in the

market like matte lipstick, cream lipstick, sheer and long

lasting lipstick, and glossy lipstick. These lipsticks contains

basic ingredients like pigment, oil, waxes, emollient and

other additive that apply colour, texture and protection to

lips and it is manufactured by four major processes like

pigment premilling, melting and mixing, molding and

flaming [2]. It is available in wide range of shades like true

red together with rose, pink and coral shades to meet the

variety of requirements of the intended user group. The

herbal cosmetics are less toxic, efficient and safe to use

than synthetic preparation.

Colouring lip is an ancient practice and dates back

to antediluvian period. Lipstick’s appropriately colourful

history began with Queen Schub-ad; this Sumerian queen

used lip colorant made with a base of white lead and

crushed red rocks [3]. Lipstick culture then reached

various countries, by the end of 19th century the first

commercial lipstick was invented in 1884, France and only

actor and actress wore lipstick in public. The lipstick

industry having successfully re-imagined lipstick, as a

symbol of devout, conventional femininity within a few

years. Thus lipsticks became a ubiquitous and even

indispensable item during the 1950s [4].

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2 Noxious issues of lipstick

Though lipstick has colourful history and has its

unique market, it also suffers from some major perilous

drawback. Recent researches has found that lipstick

contain traces of lead and other heavy metal like

antimony, arsenic, cadmium, which cause serious health

issue and in severe form it can be carcinogenic or even

fatal as it is based on human ingestion [5]. These lip care

product causes certain allergic reaction, the commonest is

allergic contact cheilitis of vermilion margin of lip

sometimes also extend to the adjacent perioral region

which can be in acute or chronic form [6].

2.1 Lead traces

A recent federal analysis showed that 400 shades

of popular lipstick contained trace amounts of lead that

has exacerbated an ongoing dispute between regulators

and consumer activists over how much lead is safe in

cosmetics. Five lipsticks made by L’Oreal and Maybelline,

owned by L’Oreal USA, ranked among the top 10 most

contaminated of the cosmetics, according to testing by the

Food and Drug Administration. Two Cover Girl and two

NARS lipsticks also landed in the top 10, as did one made

by Stargazer. A study by US consumer group Campaign for

Safe Cosmetics, in October 2007 found 60 percent of

lipsticks tested contained trace amounts of lead, especially

in red lipsticks [7]. The levels of lead varied from 0.03 to

0.65 parts per million. One third of the lipsticks containing

lead exceeded the 0.1ppm limit set by the U.S. Food and

Drug Administration for lead in candy [8-9].

2.2 Description of plant

Red Cabbage (Brassica oleracea L. var. capitata) is

one of the most important vegetables grown worldwide. It

belongs to the family Brassicaceae. This shallow-rooted,

cool-season crop is cultivated for its large leafy head and is

a native vegetable of South-western Europe and

Mediterranean region. Nowadays, we can find this cabbage

not only in this two region but all over the world.

2.3 Taxonomical description

Kingdom: Plantae

Order: Brassicales

Family: Brassaicacea

Genus: Brassica

Species: Brassica oleracea

Before being thought of as a food, cabbage was

valued for medicinal purposes in treating headaches, gout,

and diarrhoea and peptic ulcers [11]. Much research has

focused on beneficial phytochemicals in cabbage,

particularly its indole-3-carbinole (I3C), sulforaphane and

indoles. These compounds help activate and stabilize the

body’s antioxidant and detoxification mechanisms that

dismantle and eliminate cancer-producing substances

[12]. It possesses antioxidant and phytochemicals that

have strong protective effects against major degenerative

diseases including cancer and cardiovascular diseases

[13]. Red cabbage is also a promising source of

anthocyanin for coloration of foods since its anthocyanin’s

are unique in being coloured over a very broad pH-range

compared to anthocyanin’s from, e.g. grape skin, black

currant and elderberry, which only possess a reasonable

degree of colour at pH<4

3 Methodology



3.1 Materials and methods

Chemicals and reagents

Carnauba wax, Coconut oil, Almond oil, Olive oil,

Castor oil, Moringa (ben) oil, White soft paraffin,

Peppermint oil, Ethanol, Methanol, Chloroform.

Extraction of red cabbage

The collected red cabbage was washed thoroughly

and the leaves were sliced into small pieces and oven-

dried at 50°C. Dried plants (100gm) were extracted. The

uses of dry plants can be effective to minimize enzymatic

degradation of phonetic compounds inside the plant

tissues. After overnight maceration, the extract was

filtered through gauze and water was evaporated under

reduced pressure at 50°C. After evaporation, the extract is

lyophilized. The resulting dried pigments were then used

for further studies [14].

A REPLACEMENT-Alkanna tinctoria

Thus as, Brassica oleracea, Var.capita F.rubra

commonly known as red cabbage goes awry an

replacement was found which will be soluble in oil and

make it suitable to formulate lipstick.

Alkanet tinctoria also known as dyers alkanet,

dyers bugloss, is an herb in borage family. Alkanna is a

biennial or perennial herbaceous plant growing from 0.3

to 0.6 m in height with pubescent lanceolate leaves. It

bears blue to purple trumpet-shaped flowers arranged in

loose, 1-sided scorpioid racemes. The dried cylindrical,

fissured rhizome has exfoliating, brittle, and dark purple

bark on the outside and remains of bristly leaf and stem

pieces near the crown region [15]. While native to

southern Europe, the plant is also grown in and imported

from Albania, India, Egypt, and Turkey [16]. Alkanna root

belongs to the plant family Boraginaceae and contains

pyrrolizidine alkaloids that aid in plant defence against

insect herbivores. Although pyrrolizidine alkaloids are

found in all plant organs, they are concentrated in the

roots of these plants [17]. The root as a dyestuff is soluble

in alcohol, ether, and the oils, but is insoluble in water. It is

used to give colour to wines, alcoholic tinctures, vegetable

oils and to varnishes. Alkanet is traditionally used in

Indian food under the name "Ratan Jot", and lends its red

colour to some versions of the curry dish Rogan Josh.



Taxonomical description

Kingdom: Plantae

Family : Boraginacea

Genus : Alkanna

Species : Alkanna tinctoria

The Greek physician Hippocrates (ca. 460 to 370

BC) recorded the use of Alkanna root for the treatment of

skin ulcers, and the botanist Theophrastus (ca. 371 to 287

BC) suggested that it could be used as a dye and in

medications. Greek physician and pharmacologist

Dioscorides (ca. 49 to 90 AD) also described Alkanna's

properties [18]. It was traditionally used topically for the

treatment of skin wounds and diseases. Orally, Alkanna

root has been used for diarrhoea and gastric ulcers [19].

Alkanna root has demonstrated radical scavenging

activity, suggesting potential antiaging effects; however,

clinical trial information is lacking [20].

Extraction

The extraction of red pigment from Alkanet root is

done by maceration extraction technique. Since the

Alkanet root is insoluble in water the extraction is done by

using oil as an extraction medium. The various oils used

for the extraction technique is coconut oil, castor oil, olive

oil, almond oil. The Alkanet root is infused in oil and is

kept macerated for one week to obtain a dark red colour

pigment. The obtained red pigment which is infused in oil

is then filtered using a lint cloth and funnel since the

viscosity of oil differs filter paper is not used. The infused

Alkanet root oil which produced a red pigment can be used

in formulation of herbal lipstick as it is soluble in oil.

3.2 Procedure

The formulation of herbal lipstick involves the

basic manufacturing process like,

Pigment premilling

The first step involved in formulation of herbal

lipstick is pigment premilling where the agglomerates in

the powder are broken down to provide homogeneous

smooth and even colour to the lipstick.

Melting and mixing

The next step involved is the melting and mixing

stage, since waxes are solid at room temperature it cannot

be mixed with other ingredient in order to make to make

this process easy the waxes are melted. It can be usually

mixed with oil and melted to the melted base the pigment

and other additives are added and mixed to form a

homogeneous product.

3.1.7 Molding

Molding is the actual step where the melted

lipstick is poured into metal or plastic mold, the mix is

poured while it is hot however it is beneficial to harden

and then it is removed from the mole with slight pressure.

3.1.8 Flaming

Flaming is the last step where the lipstick is

passed through flame, it is typically held and twisted in the

flame for up to a second and then removed to avoid

melting and losing shape to obtain a glossy finish and then

it is placed in the container [21]. Various formulation is

done from trial 1 to 5 to find the superior quality lipstick

with colorant and oil as variable parameter.

From consumer perspective a lip care cosmetic

should possess the following requirement:

Attractive colour

Homogeneous colour when applied

Pleasant smell and taste

Easy to apply

No staining or bleeding into fine line

surrounding the lips

Long lasting effect

Basic ingredients required

Table 1: The ingredients used in the formulation of

herbal lipsticks are,

Ingredients Function

Carnauba wax Hardness and High melting

point

Coconut Oil Anti-microbial and

antioxidant

Moringa oil Prevent rancidity

Cabbage extract Coloring agent

Peppermint oil Flavoring and anti-viral

agent



Formulation 1

3.6g of carnauba wax and 4ml of moringa oil were

taken in a beaker and melted to form a

homogeneous mixture.

To the mixture 0.5 ml pigment infused coconut oil

is added and melted and sufficient quantity of

peppermint oil is added.

The melted mixture is then poured in the mold

and then placed in a refrigerator for the stick to

harden.

After the stick has hardened it is removed from

the mold with slight pressure

The lipstick is then passed through the flame to

obtain a glossy finish and then finally it is placed

in the container.

Formulation 2

3.6g of carnauba wax and 2.5ml of olive oil were




and 2ml of moringa oil is added and melted and

sufficient quantity of peppermint oil is added.



harden.





in the container.

Formulation 3

3.6g of carnauba wax and 2ml of olive oil were




and 2ml of moringa oil is added and melted




harden.





in the container.

Formulation 4

3.6g of carnauba wax and 2.5ml of castor oil were



To the mixture 3 ml pigment infused coconut oil





harden.





in the container.

Formulation 5

3.6g of carnauba wax and 2.5ml of almond oil

were taken in a beaker and melted to form a


To the mixture 4 ml pigment infused coconut oil





harden.





in the container.

Formulation 6

3.6g of carnauba wax and 2.5ml of almond oil

were taken in a beaker and melted to form a









harden.





in the container.

Evaluation of herbal lipstick

The quality of cosmetic product in the same way

as to other kind of product is initially defined by

manufacturer chooses the features that a product should

present. The quality control of the product aims to verify if

all these defined features are in accordance with standard

definition and if it will be maintained during the shelf life

of the product [22].

The quality control of cosmetic is important to

ensure the efficacy and safety of the product and its raw

material. Some current technique used by the cosmetic

industry is applied to the evaluation of cosmetic. The

quality control parameter used in efficient are

Melting point

pH

Surface anomalies

Solubility test

Skin irritation test

Colour

Rancidity

Microbiological test

Sensorial analysis is an another powerful tool

since there is no equipment able to measure the

human feeling it can be understood as a discipline that

interprets assess and measure the characteristic of a

product. After stimulating people in relation to their

vital senses as vision, smell, touch and taste [23]. It

allows the establishment of the organoleptic profile of

the diverse product. Thus sensorial analysis is a

indispensable technique to help the formulator to

evaluate the quality of its new product in relation to

its sensorial characteristic and to its stability testing is

the product will keep the nice sensorial feeling by

transmitting to the consumer during the time of use.

3.3 Melting point Apparatus

Flat Bottom Tube, Thermometer

Procedure

Place the lipstick with protruded salve in the flat

bottom tube. Fix the thermometer through a cork in such a

way that the bulb of the thermometer just touches the

lipstick salve. Insert this arrangement into a 1-litre beaker

filled with water to a level one centimetre above the upper

tip of the lipstick salve. Slowly heat the water while

stirring so that temperature rises at a rate not exceeding

2°C per minute. When the temperature reaches about

45°C, raise the temperature at the rate of 1°C per minute.

Constantly watch the lipstick salve. Record the

temperature when the salve starts bending and losing its

shape [24].

pH test

The pH of formulated herbal lipstick was

determined using pH paper [25].

Surface anomalies

This is studied to determine any surface defects,

such as formation of crystals on surfaces, contamination

by moulds, fungi etc [26].

Solubility test

The formulated herbal lipstick was dissolved in

various solvents to observe the solubility [26].

Skin irritation test

It is carried out by applying product on the skin

for 10 min [28].

Rancidity

This test when carried out on dark coloured

lipsticks is likely to be vitiated. because endpoint in

determination of peroxide number may not be very sharp.

In such cases, it is expected, as a good manufacturing

practice manufacturer should check rancidity of lipstick

raw materials, especially vegetable oils and other rancidity

prone materials regularly in lipsticks base mixtures

without colours, by peroxide number test.



Reagents

Acetic Acid, Chloroform, Potassium Chloride Solution –

Saturated

Sodium Thiosulphate Solution – Approx. 0.01 N.

Procedure

Weigh 5.0&0.05 g of lipstick sample in a 250 ml

conical flask and dissolve in 30 ml of acetic acid -

chloroform mixture (3: 2). Heat if necessary to dissolve the

sample. Add 0.5 ml of freshly made saturated potassium

iodide solution. Shake and after two minutes add 30 ml of

distilled water and then titrate with 0.01 N sodium

thiosulphate solution using starch as an indicator.

Calculation

Peroxide number = Milli equivalents peroxide per 1000 g

sample

A x N x 1 000/ Mass of sample

A = volume in ml of sodium thiosulphate

N = normality of sodium thiosulphate Solution [24].

3.4 Microbiological test The test consists of plating a known mass of the

sample on two selected culture media specifically suitable

for the growth of bacteria and fungi and incubating them

for a specified period to permit the development of visual

colonies for counting.

Apparatus

Tubes - Of resistant glass provided with closely

fitting metal Autoclaves - Of suitable size. They shall keep

uniform temperature within the chamber up to and

including the sterilizing temperature of 120°C. They shall

be equipped with an accurate thermometer, located so as

to register the minimum temperature within the sterilizing

chamber, a pressure gauge and properly adjusted safety

valve, petri dish, colony counter

Media

Nutrient Agar Medium

Dissolve 5 g of yeast extract (or meat extract), 5 g

of sodium chloride and 10 g of peptone in1 000 ml of

distilled water contained in a 2-litrebeaker by heating on a

water, bath. Add 25 g of powdered agar and continue

boiling until the agar is completely dissolved. Adjust the

pH to 7.4 with sodium hydroxide solution using pH meter

or comparator. Filter while hot through lint cloth placed in

a funnel and dispense into tubes in 20 ml quantities. Close

the tubes with metal caps or cotton and sterilize in an

autoclave at 121°Cand 1.05 kgf/cmg pressure for 20

minutes. After autoclaving, store the tubes in a

refrigerator.

Procedure

Weigh and transfer aseptically four0.5 g

portions of the sample to four melted nutrient agar tubes,

Shake the tubes to mix the contents thoroughly and pour

into sterile petri dishes. Incubate the nutrient agar tubes at

37ºC for 48 h. Determine the average number of colonies

per gram of the sample on nutrient agar tube [24].

4 Results and disscusion

Red cabbage extraction and formulation

Herbal lipstick

The formulated lipstick using Brassica oleracea

var. capitata f.rubra (red cabbage) goes awry as pigment is

insoluble in oil and settle at bottom without imparting any

colour to the stick.

Figure 1: Red Cabbage extraction and Formulation of Herbal Lipstick



Formulation 1 has bad consistency and ease of application but no coloured pigment were retained in the formulation.

Formulation 2 has good consistency but the colored pigment retained is less

Formulation 3 has good consistency but the color pigment retained was up to an appropriate extent

Formulation 4 has good consistency and the color pigment retained was better than previous formulation

Formulation 5 has good consistency, the color pigment was retained but the microbial content is high

Formulation 6 has good consistency and the color pigment retained was also best than other formulations



Figure 3: Melting Points of various Formulations

Figure 4: pH Test of various formulations



Melting point

The melting point of the formulated

herbal lipsticks was evaluated and the result indicates that

formulation 6 has highest melting point compared to other

formulations

pH

The pH of the formulated herbal lipstick was

evaluated as quality control test and as a result it was

found that four formulations has pH range of 6

Figure 5: Rancidity Test of various Formulations

Microbiological test

Any product will be in jeopardy by the growth of

micro-organism hence it is essential to determine the

number of microorganism that has grown on the product

through microbiological test. This quality control test has

been done on all six formulations and it has been found

that formulation 6 is less susceptible to the growth of

microorganism.

Organoleptic evaluation of lipstick

It is indispensable for a cosmetic product to

evaluate its organoleptic properties or sensorial analysis

to meet out with requirement of punter. Hence the

formulated herbal lipstick was evaluated on its

organoleptic properties, as a result of evaluation it was

found that formulation 6 is the best of all the six

formulation.



Table 9.

PARAMETER TRIAL 1 TRIAL 2 TRIAL 3 TRIAL 4 TRIAL 5 TRIAL 6

COLOUR White Pale pink Pale pink pink Deep red Pinkish red

SURFACE ANOMALIES No defect No defect No defect No defect No defect No defect

EASE OF APPLICATION Poor Poor Good Easy Good Easy

AGING STABILITY Rough Smooth Smooth Smooth Smooth Smooth

PERFUME STABILITY ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ +++

SOLUBILITY TEST CHCl3 CHCl3 CHCl3 CHCl3 CHCl3 CHCl3

SKIN IRRITATION TEST No No No No No No

5 Conclusion

In the present study, formulation of lipstick it

was formulated by herbal preparation. At first it was

formulated using red cabbage, but it goes awry a

replacement was used which is Alkanna tinctoria root

extract. Different formulations were made by using the

basic manufacturing process like pigment premilling,

melting, mixing, moulding, flaming processes using

Alkanna tinctoria as a colouring pigment. All the

formulations were evaluated for their physical

characteristic and sensorial analysis. Taking into

consideration of both consistency and quality control we

conclude that Formulation 6 is the best formulation of all

formulated herbal lipstick as other formulation has minor

deformities. The formulated herbal lipstick also possess

certain pros compared to available synthetic preparation

like these are less toxic and possess anti-microbial and

antioxidant property which shield the lip as we all leave

our sensitive lip to the mercy of sun.

.

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Acknowledgment

We express our profound and sincere gratitude to the department of pharmaceutical technology, Anna University, Tiruchirappalli, India

Competing Interests:

The authors declare that they have no competing interests. About The License

The text of this article is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

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