CONCEPT of LEARING SHOES by

Birkenstock Footprints

and Fuseproject58.Angel 22.Selina 35.Jofee

YvesBehar

Yves Béhar is an industrial designer and founder of fuseproject, the San Francisco-based design and b-randing firm he establishedin 1999. He is considere-d a leading figure in industrial design

Brikenstock

learningshoes

* 人體工學的

* 客製 , 定作 v.

Fuseproject 的概念鞋子藉由鞋底的反應以及置入能夠收集穿戴者的腳形和走路姿勢等數據的晶片來”學習’穿戴者人體力學的需求。這些數據儲存在晶片裡並且當它被移除時還能為穿戴者客製下一雙新鞋。

Fuseproject’s concept shoe “learns” itswearer’s ergonomic needsthrough a re-active sole embedded with a chip (thatcollects data about the wearer’s feet andwalking style).This information is stored onthe chip and,when removed,can be used to customize the wearer’s nextmodel.

* 鞋底 ( 大底 )

*concept 概念的 *reactive 反應的*embedd with 埋置 , 嵌入…東西 *chip 晶片

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This kind of thinking appealed to Birkenstock,which tasked fuseprokect with developing a new line-Footprints:The Architect Collection,which would bring their key brand attributes of comfort,green,design,recyclability,and sustainable man-ufacturing to a new generation and specifically,appeal to the new urbanite consumer without betraying the brand’s heritage.

這樣的想法吸引了勃肯的注意 , 並且委託 fuseproject 設計團隊協助發展新的旗下品牌 - 除了帶有勃肯重要的品牌元素 - 舒適 , 綠色設計及可回收性等精神外並加入新世代的款式設計於概念中 , 並在不違背勃肯傳統品牌之精神下 , 亦能夠吸引新的顧客及都市客。

* 可回收性*impotnat

*task…with 指派…工作 *attribute 特徵 , 屬性 *urbanite 都市人 *betray 遺漏*heritage 財產

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“The primary challenge was to go beyond-basically invent-a new directionwhile staying true to the history and the principles of the brand,”says Yves Behar,founder and principal of fuseproject.”We had to blend the existingtechnology and fit with new comfort features and a new design direction .”Specifically,while the new line had to respect the traditional wide fit of theBirkenstock brand,Behar wanted a design that lightened the visual bulk ofthe shoe and made it distinctively different from Birkenstock’s other styles.At the same time,designers had to ensure that the new assemblies andmanufacturing techniques would be feasible within European Union andGerman labor and environmental standards.

Behar(fuseproject 公司的創辦者及首長 ) 說 : 「目前首要的挑戰就是基本上創造一個新的方向 - 建正確的沿革與品牌起源。」「我們必須去融合令人興奮的新科技、舒適性和設計方向」特別是 , 當這種新的方式必須廣泛符合與遵守傳統的品牌時 , Behar 希望能減輕鞋子視覺的體積並且區別於其他勃肯系列的設計。同時 , 設計師們必須確認新的配件與製造的方式是否合適於歐盟與德國工會與環保的標準。

*invent 發明 , 創造 *principle 原理 , 起源 *principal 首長 ,社長 *blend 混合*feature 特徵 , 特色

* 減輕 * 視覺

*環保的

*bulk 體積 *distinctively 區別地 *assemblie 配件*technique 技巧 , 技法 *feasible 合適的 , 可行的

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The team started working on the shoe, "designing from the inside out, which isnot the typical way that shoes are desi-gned," Behar says. Throughout the pro-cess, designers asked, Can comfort be elegant and modern? Can green designgo beyond the aesthetic of green design?“

團隊開始為這雙鞋子努力， Behar 說 : 「它的設計流程並不如以往的鞋子，它是由裡設計到外的。」在整個過程中，設計師們提出了問題，有沒有辦法讓舒適這件事變得既優雅又富有現代感?有沒有辦法讓環保的綠設計一樣伴隨著美感 ?

*typical 典型的 *elegant 優雅的 , 精緻的

*美學的

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"Our approach to these challenges was to introduce innovation to the brand byadapting new recyclable technologies, creating new comfort features, and pre-senting these with a stylish, fashion-fo-rward look," says Behar.

Behar 說 : 「為了讓品牌能引進創新來適應新的綠技術時代，我們創造了新的舒適特色，並將這當成一種時尚前瞻新風格來呈現，藉此迎向這些挑戰。」

*approach 接近 , 方法 *adapt 使適合 , 適應

* 可回收科技

* 時尚前瞻性* 時髦的 ,流行的

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They began by reshaping the insole in 3-D and adding comfort and stabilizing features like the heel pad and front pad, using a renewable mixture of recycled cork and natural rubber lined with natural vegetable-died suede. A recessed, biodegradable polyurethane techno gel was integrated with the insole to provide added shock absorption, comfort, and stability.

設計師們開始在 3D裡重新塑造鞋內的軟墊並增加舒適且穩定的特色，像是腳後跟或前面的襯墊。他們使用一種可回收且可替換的軟木混合物還有天然橡膠製的襯裡 (具天然植物製作的麂皮質感 ) 還有和鞋底結合的膠狀物可以增加抗震性，更加舒適且穩定。

* 重新塑造 * 中底

*stabilize 平衡 ,穩固 v. *heel 後踵 ,跟 *cork 軟木

* 可替換的

*襯墊

*襯裡

*suede 仿麂皮製*recessed 內嵌式的 *biodegradable 生物分解的 *polyurethane 聚氨酯 *gel 膠體*be integrate with 與…結合為一體 *shock 衝擊 ,震動 *stability 穩定 n.

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Next, designers sculpted the sole to lighten its mass and to create a more dynamic and modern silhouette. "While the original wide fit of the Birkenstock offering was respected,the new design is fluidly sculpted around the insole, minimizing extra material and making the shoe appear more sleek and the mass vi-sually lighter," says Behar.

再來，設計師們塑造鞋底來減輕它主要部分並創造一個更加有活力且現代的輪廓。 Behar 說 : 「最初的勃肯鞋貢獻是十分令人敬佩的，這個新的設計讓鞋內底是可被雕塑的，將所使用的原料降到最低，並使鞋子看起來更加雅致、整體視覺上更加亮眼。」

*sculpt 雕塑 *mass 質量 , 大部分 n. *dynamic 有活力的 *silhouette 輪廓*fluidly 可變動地 *minumize 使最小化 *sleek 精緻的

*亮眼

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They modified the last to affect the form on the outside as well. "The main constraint is that Birkenstock is mainly a wide shoe that allows for as much room as possible for yourfoot and toes inside the shoe," says Behar. "We were able to design it to narrow the w-aist of the shoe and create aesthetics that broke it down in shape. The result is that it looked a lot lighter and a lot more dynamic.“

他們最後進一步修改外形。 Behar 說 : 「最主要的限制是勃肯鞋是雙寬的鞋子，有許多空間允許你的腳還有腳指頭放在鞋子裡。」「我們能設計的就是將中間部分變窄並創造出具有美感且不易變型的形狀。成果是，它變得更加亮眼且具有活力。」

*modify 修改 *constraint 限制 n. *mainly 大部分地 *narroe 使變窄 ,縮小 v.*waist 腰部 ( 中間部份 )

*Form follow function

*審美 n.

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For the uppers, designers created different end-use styles, some of which are quite simpleand mix materials including leather,elastic, andneoprene. The look is comfortable but also streamlined.Color studies were done with therange of colors that Birkenstock had been using."We went with new colors that are very modern but not considered completely loud. The result is a new brightness and affirmative look that the colors give to the brand while being somewhatelegant," says Behar.

對於鞋面，設計師創造了不同的使用目的，有些都是很簡單而且是混合材料，其中包括皮革與橡膠。看起來很舒服並且十分簡單。勃肯鞋持已經續進行了一系列的顏色研究，。 貝哈爾說：我們想使用很新的現代顏色，但還沒有考慮完全。結果是一種新的亮度與顏色和肯定的外觀，使這個品牌變得更加優雅。

*elastic 合成橡膠 *neoprene 橡皮帶 . *range 系列 *loud 鮮豔的 ,花俏的*brightness 明亮 ,鮮豔 n.

*流線型的

*affirmative 肯定的

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Fuseproject's work didn't stop there. While theshoe was complete,they continued to work on the project, going so far as to develop its logo and the balance of the branding materials incl-uding merchandisers and point-of-purchase materials. They even orchestrated the product's launch.

但 Fuseproject 的企劃並不僅如此。儘管鞋子已製作完成，他們能持續執行這個計畫，甚至發展其標識及考慮到品牌材料支出的平衡，包括品牌經銷商和採購材料。他們甚至策劃產品的推出。

*balance 平均 *merchandiser 商人 *purchase 購買 *orchestrate 精心安排*point-of-purchase 經銷商 *launch 投入市場

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From start to finish, the entire project took more than two years,but the wait was worth it. The new Birkenstock Fo-otprints line has introduced a new ge-neration of customers to the company'sphilosophy of green design and comfort.New customer comments have been alongthe lines of "I never thought I would bewearing Birkenstocks," while the pool of traditional Birkenstock customers, a loyal asset, have been reenergized by the company's innovations.

從開始到結束，整個工程歷時兩年多，但等待是值得的。新的勃肯讓新一代的客戶了解公司綠色設計及舒適的理念。新客戶的意見一直傳開，我從來沒有想到我會穿勃肯鞋，當忠誠傳統的顧客 ,因公司的創新使重新展現活力。

*philosophy 哲學 , 人生觀 *comment 意見 ,評論 *purchase 購買*reenergize 重現活力的 *innovation 改革

*loyal 忠誠的

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"I learned how powerful design can be withrespect to supporting brand evolution and change," says Behar. "Even though we started from an industrial design standpoi-nt, we carried it through all the other aspe-cts of the Footprints brand.That is what makes fuseproject quite unusual. We integ-rate the brand strategy,and we are able todo a version of industrial design that include-es and considers all of the aspects and all ofthe touch points that a consumer will experie-nce about the brands we work with."

貝哈爾說“我了解到設計在品牌的革新與發展方面有多大的影響。 我們不僅僅一開始是用工業設計角度來看，其他所有鞋子品牌的面向也都是用同樣的思維處理。這也是為什麼 fuseproject是如此的不平凡。融合了品牌策略 , 除了原有工業設計專業外 , 我們還考慮到消費著在體驗我們 ,社稷品牌時有可能會經歷到的問題點與接觸面

*evolution 發展 *standpoint 立場 ,觀點 *purchase 購買*integrate 使…合併

*aspect 方面 ,觀點*strategy 策略

adidas-1(U10)

NT$10800

Defect:high price,extra maintain chip

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