footwear plus

REMEMBERING MICHEL MEYNARD • SHOPPING EUROPE • COMFORT STYLE HOME RUNS

Laser VisionVOL. 23 • ISSUE 9 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013 • $10

Cutouts Flourish for Spring

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Fashion Inspires Us

Value Drives Us

rialto A Division of White Mountain

www.rialtoshoes.com

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BØRN HANDCRAFTED FOOTWEAR | NEW YORK SHOWROOM | 1441 BROADWAY | 15TH FLOOR | NEW YORK, NY

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

Caroline Diaco Publisher

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor

Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Social Media Editor

Brittany Leitner Assistant Editor

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer

Judy Leand Contributing Editor

ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

Capri Crescio Advertising Manager

Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager

Joel Shupp Circulation Manager

Mike Hoff Digital Director

OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl. New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com

Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 [email protected]

Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

Xen Zapis Chairman

Lee Zapis President

Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer

Debbie Grim Controller

10 Red Alert How retailers can be vigilant in the age of terrorism. By Lyndsay McGregor

12 In the Details Glen Barad, president of Taos, on the finer points of shoemaking. By Greg Dutter

18 Brothers in Arms Miroballi Shoes thrives thanks to a loyal customer base and dedicated employees. By Brittany Leitner

22 Dream Big Michel Meynard leaves a legacy of industry firsts, spanning design, sourcing and brand building. By Greg Dutter

26 The European Report Tracking the latest Spring ’14 trends and up-and-comers out of the GDS show. By Angela Velasquez

30 Home Run Derby Comfort styles that look to knock it out of the park next season. By Angela Velasquez, Lyndsay McGregor and Brittany Leitner

38 Modern Art Laser cutouts create an avant-garde canvas for comfort styles. By Angela Velasquez

4 Editor’s Note

8 This Just In

34 What’s Selling

36 Trend Spotting

48 Shoe Salon

50 Comfort

52 Last Word

On the cover: Aquatalia creeper, Issey Miyake collared blouse over Nanushka blouse.

Photography by Jamie Isaia. Stylist: Sara Dunn; hair: Adrian Clark, The Wall Group; makeup: Cedric Jolivet, See Management; model: Nora, Red Model Management.

This page, from left: Earth wedge, peep toe shootie by Adam Tucker Me Too.

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013

PA G E

38

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e d i t o r’ s n o t ew h a t ’ s n e x t ?

IT WAS BOUND to happen one day, right? Nothing burns at its brightest forever, not even supernovas. And if its dominant run is merely falling back to the front of the fashion pack, then it was still one hell of a run. Just think of where our industry would be without Ugg having set a furious pace during the past decade, especially when the

Great Recession kicked in, and its effects have continued to linger. Ugg has been the brand thousands of retailers have banked on season after season, year after year; the “slam dunk” that actually verified. For many retailers, it was the difference-maker for staying in business.

At full-price—and a premium price, to boot—Ugg has been a cash cow the likes of which some would say was never seen before because the brand appealed to such a broad audience. An A-list fashion staple that seamlessly crossed over to the masses, spanning Millennials to Boomers, Ugg has been a fashion phenomenon born out of its utilitarian attributes of comfort, versatility and ease of wear. Not to mention the silhouette’s illusion of slimming women’s legs. It was the perfect storm—in a good way.

Depending on which side of the fence you sit, the idea of Ugg becoming a staple rather than the tip of the fashion spear could be a tremendous opportunity (for competing brands and those retailers who don’t carry Ugg) or a source of financial fret (what, if anything, might fill the sales vacuum?). Selling at $150 a pair on average, one Ugg sale can equal potentially three sales of other styles. That alone could require an unrealistic increase in customer traffic. One respected retailer in the Northeast reports that Ugg sales until this fall had been humming along at 40 to 50 pairs a day, but the jury is still out for this season. A warm October hasn’t helped matters. His fear is that Ugg sales might not be as numerous in the months to come. “It’s tough. It’s a huge chunk of business to try and account for,” he laments. His advice to fellow retailers: Get creative. And that may require looking

beyond shoes to help drive sales. “Our overall numbers are still up, largely because of clothing,” he states. “We have had some really hot jackets this fall.”

Beyond the stark reality of lost dollars, there’s also the question of whether a brand or a look can become as ubiquitous and massive in the age of social media. Trends now come at a dizzying pace, some going viral in days and getting quickly played as the next Internet sensation zooms into the fashion sphere. The patience to nurture and invest heavily in the latest must-have can be risky. Like a game of musical chairs, no one wants to be left holding the inventory.

A pessimist would say there will never be another Ugg-like phenomenon. The optimist would say, at the bare minimum, people aren’t going to go barefoot, so the potential always exists. In the meantime, some of the freed-up open-to-buy dollars are allowing retailers to test new brands and looks. One of the best ways to find the “next big thing” is to give new things a shot. If history is any indicator, something big will eventually come along. And it’ll likely be fueled by Hollywood celebrities, rock stars and athletes, just like Ugg, Dr. Martens and Nike were.

As big as Ugg has become, plenty of room for growth still exists for the brand. Just look at Nike as a blueprint for how a lifestyle brand can evolve from its original “Moon Shoe” jogger into a world superpower that, according to its latest internal projections, aims for its portfolio of brands to hit $36 billion annually by 2017. As Nike President and CEO Mark Parker stated: “Nike, Inc. is designed to win.” He cites the company’s strong management team, commitment to creating innovative products, delivering exciting retail experiences and improving its supply chain as the pillars that will support that epic growth. Parker didn’t allude to some secret sauce or magic spell. He cited the blocking and tackling basics that build a brand.

Based on that premise, Deckers Outdoor and its Ugg brand are just getting started. So might countless other brands. The market, as always, remains wide open.

The Great Wide Open

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

In a fashion landscape straying from a dominant silhouette, opportunity and uncertainty

abounds as to what might fill the void.

FW_10_11_13_EdNote_01.indd 4 10/16/13 3:43 PM

Like us on facebook.com/alegriashoes alegriashoes.com

One shoe.Two widths.


@ffanyshoeshow

DECEMBER 4–6WEDNESDAY–FRIDAYNew York Hilton Midtown & Member Showrooms

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Ahoy, matey!We’re going overboard for adventure!

The USRA May EventMay 4-6, 2014 Red Rock Resort Las Vegas

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One Industry. One Goal. One Place.

Yo ho! Treasure awaits. So swash buckle your shoes and prepare to board. Rum runs, booty, and smooth sailing ahead! N Keynote Speakers, Panels & WorkshopsN Continuing Education Points for CPEDsN Order DiscountsN Golf TournamentN Hotel & Meals includedN Industry NetworkingN Jolly Roger Buccaneer Blast!

Arrrrr! You in? Aye, our crew needs all hands on deck!Call or email the USRA office for Membership info or a May Event package.Phone: (818) 703-6062 Email: [email protected] www.usraonline.org

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All new. All comfortable. All Dansko.

Dansko, Dansko and the Wing Design, and the Wing Design are all trademarks of Dansko, LLC. © 2013 Dansko, LLC. 1.800.326.7564. Other names and brands may be claimed as the property of others.

SANTA FELightweight and super supportive are just two of the innovative features found in Santa Fe, the new walking shoe from Dansko. Benefits abound in this collection including breathable mesh uppers, stain-resistant suede, reflective hits for safety, Poron® cushioning for exceptional comfort, andDri-Lex® Eco linings with Cleansport NXT™ for organic odor management. Santa Fe provides all-day comfort and support whether walking for fitness or fun, with a stroller or a dog, with friends or alone.

Dansko, Dansko and the Wing Design, and the Wing Design are all trademarks of Dansko, LLC. © 2013 Dansko, LLC. 1.800.326.7564. Other names and brands may be claimed as the property of others.

Not your only shoes, just your favorites®

SIENNAMeet Sienna, a new active-inspired sandal collection from Dansko. In addition to its extraordinary comfort, Sienna features multiple points of adjustability to ensure a perfect fit, slip-resistant rubber outsoles, stain-resistant nubuck uppers and a multi-density long-wearing footbed. Whether enjoying a walk at the beach, the park or around town, this casual, colorful sandal is the go-to sandal when going out-the-door.

Lightweight and super supportive are just two of the innovative features found in Santa Fe, the new walking shoe from Dansko. Benefits abound in this collection including breathable mesh uppers, stain-resistant suede,

cushioning for exceptional comfort, and Eco linings with Cleansport NXT™ for organic odor management.

Santa Fe provides all-day comfort and support whether walking for fitness

multi-density long-wearing footbed. Whether enjoying a walk at the beach, the park or around town, this casual, colorful sandal is the go-to sandal when going out-the-door.

or fun, with a stroller or a dog, with friends or alone.

SIENNAMeet Sienna, a new active-inspired sandal collection from Dansko. In addition to its extraordinary comfort, Sienna features multiple points of adjustability to ensure a perfect fit, slip-resistant rubber outsoles, stain-resistant nubuck uppers and a

Santa Fe provides all-day comfort and support whether walking for fitness


8 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 20138

THIS JUST INTHIS JUST INTHIS JUST INTHIS JUST IN

Enlist in Style

Camouflage prints are out in force in the

City of Light. Photography by

Melodie Jeng

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PICTURE THE SCENE: It’s a busy Saturday afternoon at your store. Sales associates are running ragged to ensure each customer—from the mom looking to outfit all three of her kids in new sneakers to the elderly gentle-man who’s not quite sure if he’s ready to replace his beloved dress shoes—leaves with a shopping bag or two in tow. You hear what sounds like bal-loons popping, and suddenly the shopping mall turns into complete chaos. A masked gunman has opened fire. What do you do?

It’s a nightmare scenario that everyone hopes never happens. But as evi-denced when 63 people were killed in September by members of Somalia-based militant group Al-Shabaab storming the Westgate Mall, a high-end shopping center in Nairobi, Kenya, the scenario can be all too real. The at-tack thrust the safety of malls around the world into the spotlight, and the Department of Homeland Security is urging American malls to increase se-curity in the aftermath of the carnage.

It doesn’t have to be a coordinated terrorist assault. A lone madman, like in the Aurora, CO, movie multiplex, can inflict similar levels of death and de-struction. But it’s the mall concept in particular that makes them so vulner-able: Large numbers of people, many carrying sizeable parcels, coming and going through multiple entranc-es and exits… It’s the perfect cover to blend in with the crowd. For exam-ple, two women were killed at a San Francisco mall in July; an 18-year-old man wounded two at a mall in Christiansburg, VA, in April; and last Christmas two people were fatally shot in a mall in Portland, OR. And the deadliest U.S. mall shooting in history occurred in 2007 when nine people, including the gunman, died at the Westroads Mall in Omaha, NE. That same year a Somali man with ties to al Qaeda was arrested for plot-ting to bomb a mall in Columbus, OH.

Nonetheless, purse snatchings and flash mobs remain top of mind with most mall security personnel. That needs to change. In An Assessment of the Preparedness of Large Retail Malls

to Prevent and Respond to Terrorist Attacks, a 2006 study funded by the National Institute of Justice and based on surveys of private mall security di-rectors and homeland security officials, researchers reported that American shopping malls had received too little attention as potential sites for terrorist and other attacks. And while U.S. intelligence officials say there isn’t specific threat information suggesting that an attack similar to Nairobi is planned for here, security experts worry about copycats. At the bare minimum, retailers should have a plan of action if a situation should arise.

If You See Something, Say Something. “In most cases these things aren’t just random, they’re planned,” says Malachy Kavanagh, a spokesman for the International Council of Shopping Centers (ICSC), a U.S.-based trade group of mall and shopping center own-ers. “Shooters do surveillance on a place they want to target, and a big part of that is trying to figure out where the security is, where cameras are, if security walks certain routes, changes shifts, etc.” Bill Nesbitt, president of

California’s Security Management Services International (SMSI) Inc. and a specialized security analyst for more than 30 years, agrees: “Terrorists do their homework,” he declares. “If there’s a break-down in security, one of the fre-quent things I find is there was a precursor that would have tipped you off that something was about to happen.”

The Department of Homeland Security has reached out to heads of corporate security for all American malls to familiar-ize retailers with what procedures should take place, and wheth-er to lockdown or flee the area. “Retailers need to realize that it’s a partnership and that they can be instrumental in preventing something like what happened in Nairobi,” Kavanagh says.

Most of the outlets contacted by Footwear Plus confirmed

S P E C I A LR E P O R T

Red AlertIn wake of the Nairobi terrorist attack, U.S. malls and retailers

are stepping up security. Here are some strategies on how to help prevent an attack or react in the event of one. By Lyndsay McGregor

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@ffanyshoeshow

DECEMBER 4–6WEDNESDAY–FRIDAYNew York Hilton Midtown & Member Showrooms

Special hotel rates at FFANY.ORG

SAVE THE DATE February 5–7, 2014 (Wednesday–Friday)



GLEN BARAD NEVER really set out to run his own shoe company. In fact, he fell into the business quite by accident when he was selling his parents’ wicker basket samples at Los Angeles area swap meets to help put himself through college. It was during that time he helped out a fraternity brother who sold work boots—earning $25 a day—at the same swap meets. As fate would have it, Barad’s former Little League coach was Jack Silvera, CEO and founder of Dynasty Footwear. Barad asked to sell his samples, eventually expanding his operation to several meets per weekend. He then got a job as a stock boy at a local Nordstrom outlet but after about a year he dislocated his shoulder and had to go on leave. That’s when Silvera took him off the DL, so to speak, and gave him his official start in the shoe industry big leagues.

“I joined as the guy who swept the floors, shipped samples and pretty much anything they needed me to do,” Barad says, adding it was the first rung on the industry ladder that led to line building, product development and going overseas to learn the sourcing aspects of the business. “It was a fabulous background that spanned sales, development and costing to establishing relationships with agents

and factories,” he says. “It was an extremely, unbelievable learning experience.”

Sixteen years later and armed with a master’s degree in shoes, Barad launched his own private label company. But it wasn’t long until his sourcing epiphany hit: “I came to the realization that there’s loyalty to a point, but no matter how great your designs are or how attractive the price, the response too often was, ‘I need the lowest price,’” he says. And the only way to really deliver on that request was to strip down the shoes. Less was definitely less. Tired of being asked to pare down his designs, Barad did an about-face (the year was 2004) and got into the branded business with the launch of Taos. “Instead of taking components out of shoes, I decided to put them back in and offer more value to the consumer,” he says. “We went in the opposite direction.”

Barad’s accumulated knowledge gained from sourcing shoes for others gives Taos a distinct advantage. Specifically, he and his team know what design elements to include that deliver the ROI. Those added touches involve rich leathers, unique fabrics and eye-catching embellishments, be it earthy stones, burnished buckles or delicate embroidery. “We set out to do comfort casuals by putting as much into the shoes as humanly possible,” he says.

It’s one of the reasons Barad bristles at being generalized as just another “comfort” brand. “Absolutely not,” he retorts. “Taos is a lifestyle brand, but we do obsess that our shoes must be comfortable.” He adds, “It’s a shame that there are some great-looking shoes out there that are just not comfortable.” The comfort aspects of Taos derive mostly from its lasts and patterns. “We incorporate adjustability where we can on top of our supportive foodbeds,” he notes. “Just because a shoe or a sandal flexes doesn’t mean it’s necessarily comfortable. As a matter of fact, sometimes that hurts the foot more than anything else.”

Barad believes it’s the actual shoe that should be the point of difference at the point of sale. It doesn’t have to be strictly about price. The shoes matter, he says. Specific to Taos that involves addressing the needs of a denim-friendly world where women juggle work, family and personal pursuits. Comfort is a prerequisite, and style and versatility are equally important design facets.

It may sound simple enough—a comfy footbed, a few pieces of hardware and some nice leathers, and you’re off and running… But it’s not that easy. If it were, everyone would be successful at it. To the contrary, Barad says the details incorporated into Taos each season are the result of a painstakingly involved process that really never

12

GLEN BARAD, PRESIDENT OF TAOS, ON HOW PAYING HEED TO ALL THE LITTLE ASPECTS ARE ADDING UP INTO A RAPIDLY GROWING SUCCESS STORY.

IN THE DETAILS

BY GREG DUTTER

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ceases. “It’s like producing a Broadway show each season,” he offers. “You have so many different components that have to go into these shoes, then the factory has to do a great job making sure everything matches and fits, and when it doesn’t, revisions have to be made on the fly. Then you have to ship and, finally, the consumer makes the ultimate decision.” Barad says it can be a “brutal” process, but it’s a necessary one. The fact that Taos is also committed to being in-stock on a good number of styles adds to the performance anxiety. Whereas a lot of companies avoid taking such an inventory risk, Barad says Taos does to a fault. But he knows allowing retailers the ability to fill-in on successful styles is an attractive brand feature. “Hopefully we’re right more than we’re wrong,” he says of inventory management. “The reality is you never enough good stuff. That’s just part of being in the shoe business.”

So far so good as Taos’ attention to detail is delivering solid results. Sales are gaining momentum as the brand becomes more of a year-round staple (its roots are in sandals). “Things are accelerating and we are gaining a lot of market share,” Barad confirms. “We might be at a true tipping point and, if we aren’t, we are certainly close.”

Rather than cite a particular collection or a standout style as the factor behind the recent uptick in sales, Barad attributes the good fortune to an ongoing team effort. “You can have a particular style sell really well, which is great,” he offers. “But it’s really more about the consistency of the entire team over the long term that is the reason for our success.” He cites the “great” teams in design and development, marketing, warehouse and customer service. (“If it’s not the best in the industry it’s certainly one of the best.”) “The passion of everyone in the building is remarkable,” Barad says, adding the company just moved into a bigger facility in Torrance, CA, to accommodate the growth. “That’s what really makes the brand. It’s not any one shoe, it’s not any one season.”

Not to be overlooked in this team effort, Barad says, are Taos’ retail partners. “We are in this together and we let our customers know it,” he says. That’s why if a problem arises, Taos is committed to finding equitable solutions, efficiently and amicably. “We really don’t care about getting an order,” Barad states. “We care about building a business, and I am proud to say that our team is continually striving toward that goal and accomplishing it.”

As a former sourcing person, what are the best aspects of owning a brand?Owning a brand allows me the option to pay 50 cents or $1 more to make a better product or have it made in a better factory. When you are an agent,

you are the middleman. You never take ownership of any inventory. As a brand owner we are putting our money where our mouths are. We truly believe in our product because we have invested dearly in it.

To turn a classic movie reference around: It’s personal, not just business.My team eats, drinks and sleeps this company. And nothing comes easy, so yes, it’s personal. We understand there’s a business aspect to it all but

we also believe that because we are so passionate about what we are doing—from the product to the customer service to having shoes in stock to our factory and retail partners—yeah, it’s personal.

Well, if you succeed, then all of those other people have a better chance to succeed.Yes. And we are not going to succeed if they don’t. That’s why, for me, it’s not just about getting an order, it’s about building a business. And you can’t achieve that working part-time. But this is also our hobby. We love it.

Would you describe yourself as a designer by this point?I don’t think of myself as one, but I do help our design team in terms of overall direction and what we want to believe in as a brand. To this end, we have a lot of meetings and I want to hear everyone’s thoughts and ideas. And I believe, collectively, that we have been making some pretty good decisions.

But after nearly 30 years in this business in a hands-on way, do you have a gut feeling on when a shoe looks to be a home run?I’d like to think so. Our company owns a phenomenal track record, and we had the same track record when we were a private label entity. I don’t like saying it often, but the proof is in the

pudding. And God bless us that we all work so hard and the result is a good track record. There’s no smoke and mirrors here. You don’t get that chance to miss in this business. If you do, it’s for a season and then you’re done.

Taos is women’s casual lifestyle footwear—like a long list of other brands claim. What is it that is making Taos stand out more of late?I know everyone is reading the same trend reports, but maybe we just have a better feel for it. All the hours we painstakingly go through debating constructions, styles, materials, colors, etc. It’s a battle back and forth that involves a lot of experience not just from the sourcing, design and development sides of this business, but includes retailers, marketers and what I would describe as regular people who offer an outside perspective. We listen to everyone. We are just sponges for continually wanting to

O&A

O F F T H E C U F FWhat are you reading? Healing Back Pain: The Mind-Body Connection. I have some issues and I’m trying to work through them as best I can.

The result of too many long plane rides? Growing up I played a lot of sports aggressively and then the non-stop travel, which often involved lugging shoe cases.

What is inspiring you most right now? Recently our family rescued a dog and a cat. The joy that they are bringing to our family is a great feeling.

What famous person in history do you most admire? Of late it’s Jackie Robinson. I saw 42 and it was mind-blowing to see all the obstacles that he had to go through.

What is your motto? Never give up.

Who would be your most coveted dinner guest? My parents. I lost my father about five years ago and my mother about three years ago. There’s a whole heck of a lot that I would like to share with them. And I have so many questions now that I would have never thought of asking them when they were alive.

What is your least favorite word? Can’t.

What is your favorite part of the day? The evenings when everybody in our family is home and we share the experiences that we have had that day.

What was your first paying job? An announcer for our local Little League. I was 13. It was awesome.

What sound do you love? Silence. Every time I check into a hotel I ask for the quietest room possible.

FW_10_11_13_QA_01.indd 14 10/17/13 1:13 PM

understand what is happening in the marketplace. It’s all the small details that add up to being the difference. I know that a lot of brands like to use a variation of “where style meets comfort,” but I can tell you it’s mostly a bunch of bull. Most brands don’t really deliver on the premise.

I can name 10 brands off the top of my head that use a variation of that mantra.It drives me crazy. I often look at the so-called style and wonder where did that come from, because it’s so off the mark. Was it Eastern Europe? What were you thinking? I have been anti the comfort/style slogan for a long time, but everyone still seems to be using it in some form or another—including us! (Laughs.)

Well, it communicates to consumers what they basically want. They don’t want to be unstylish and uncomfortable, right?Absolutely. It just requires a very good taste level and, if we make a mistake, the ability to adjust quickly. To steal a baseball reference, we’ll take ground balls morning to night to ensure that we don’t make any errors during the game. The goal always being: The best product at the best value for the ultimate consumer.

Who exactly is that consumer? One of our starting points is a young mom. But the reality is it’s any woman who’s on her feet all day, and that spans college-age women all the way up to grandmas. That broad range is one of the aspects that’s helping us move product at retail. It’s also why it’s important for us to have something for everybody, which includes a broad price range (between $90 and $250). Our higher priced goods are a smaller percentage overall right now, but we have been asked by a lot of boutiques and better grade independents to spend a little bit more time there.

What is the distribution focus for Taos?Better grade independents, specialty chains and the one national chain we are currently in is The Walking Company. We also have a tight group of e-tailers we work with.

Department stores are not a part of the mix?No. We would certainly entertain being in a Nordstrom, but we haven’t been too aggressive because at the rate we are growing it would be difficult to accommodate them they way we would want to. Hopefully we will be able to get together at some point in time.

It’s about quality over quantity in terms of distribution and overall volume?Yes. Sometimes less is more. We want to build great product, and I would rather pay more for it from our factories and be more focused in our distribution than just running numbers. I think one of the saddest aspects about our industry today is that it’s more about numbers than the passion of the shoes. Certainly, we are in the business to make money and we’ve had calls from department store and mid-tier levels, but we just don’t want to be all about the numbers. We want to take that next step when we are able to do so on our terms. In the meantime, our current distribution is requesting more from us.

How would you assess the overall health of the independent tier today?Those that are still out there are pretty healthy. The last few years has been a bloody nightmare, and that’s why those who are still standing are really fabulous retailers. Nothing is ever easy and they all have to stay on

O&A

FW_10_11_13_QA_01.indd 16 10/18/13 4:33 PM

their game, but I think as long as they align themselves with companies with similar philosophies and distribution strategies like ours, they’ll have a shot. They also have to offer great service. They’ve got to make the people in their respective communities want to come back and buy shoes from them again and again. And their merchandise mix doesn’t always have to be the result of a wholesaler offering a deal. It’s driven me crazy the last few years where I hear brands saying, “We’ll give you this huge discount or you don’t have to pay us for X amount of days and this, that and the other…” The problem too often is the shoes they offered the deal on arrive late, don’t fit properly or just don’t sell because they’re no good. That’s why I hate “making a deal.” We’ll work with our retailers, certainly, but it’s more about the shoes. And at the end of the day, if the cash register rings everybody is happy. Thankfully, our retailers’ registers have been ringing for a few years now.

It’s reassuring because sometimes I wonder when all I seem to hear is talk about making numbers.Nothing in this business is easy. And I understand retailers have pressures too. But I’m encouraged as more and more independent retailers and small specialty chains recognize that they have to support brands that support them. If they buy from brands that sell to everybody, it’s only going to end badly. That’s also one of the reasons why we’ve implemented a very stringent MAP policy to make sure that everyone is on a level playing field price-wise.

How does this independent or specialty chain compete with, say, a Zappos?For starters, our pricing is going to be the same. Beyond that a boutique atmosphere has to be fun. The proprietors have to make it an inviting and memorable experience. They must be truly excited about all the products they carry. They also have to know their customer exceptionally well. Along those lines, people still go to the movies because it’s a cool experience. I’m still a strong proponent of shopping—actually touching the shoes and putting them on before you buy. And having a dialogue with a knowledgeable salesperson—that can be an invaluable experience too. And let’s face it, there are some people who just don’t want to wait a day or so to have five pairs shipped to them, try them on and then have to ship four pairs back.

Brick-and-mortar retailers could also inform them of the incredible amount of fuel and packaging associated with that form of shopping. You said that, I didn’t (laughs). Along those lines, I’m hoping that some industry leaders figure out how to minimally package shoes to cut down on the waste. It’s too much. I’m looking forward to when we hopefully become a leader and can push for those types of changes.

Despite a difficult economy, shoes sales have performed relatively well overall. Why?It’s one of those simple pleasures in life where you really don’t have to think twice like a more expensive purchase requires. A pair of shoes can make you feel good and costs $100 to $200. We are only on the planet for a short time, so God bless us to be able to offer that type of pleasure.

Macro fashion trends look to also be playing into the hands of shoe sales—one of which is people paying more attention to their overall appearance in order to make a better impression.Oh, absolutely. People want to be proud of how they present themselves. Two good examples are wing tips and man tailored shoes—two of the biggest trends in the industry right now. It can be interpreted with >51

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HOW DO THREE brothers, who have had family ties to the shoe industry for more than 50 years, keep Miroballi Shoes, a traditional comfort shoe retailer nestled in the Chicago suburbs, relevant in today’s ever-changing and increasingly competitive market? For starters, they talk often to their valued employees—and listen and react to what they have to say.

Miroballi brothers Perry, Dan and Tony took over the business from their father, Joe, in 1994, and have since expanded Miroballi Shoes to two loca-tions as well as opened three New Balance concept stores. And although the brothers succeed by carrying comfort stalwarts like Naot, Dansko and Rieker, they also mix in younger, lifestyle brands like Sperry Top-Sider, Toms and Michael Kors—often thanks to the suggestions of their staff.

“Our team members are our internal customers,” says Perry. “When they see a consistent brand on our customers’ feet that we don’t carry, they notify us of the trend.” Using this system, Miroballi Shoes recently picked up AGL shoes from Attilio Giusti Leombruni. “We have a core group of brands we carry from one season to the next, then there’s a group of brands trending like AGL,” Tony adds, noting that last year the hot ticket brand was Minnetonka.

“I think we’re positioned really well in the market,” says Perry, adding that they seek out brands from two standpoints. One that will go with its model

of being a fashion comfort store, with staples like Munro, Birkenstock and New Balance, and brands consumers might be surprised by such as Fly London.

Although Miroballi Shoes is a comfort footwear destination, the stores don’t only

draw in the category’s typical older demographic. “Our target customer is anywhere from teenager all the way up,” says Perry, noting the addition of a Toms shop-in-shop and a recent remodel of the Orland Park store has helped broaden its customer base. “A lot of times girls come in with their moms, and we can leverage both,” Perry says.

The Orland Park location is next to retailers like Charming Charlie, Gap and Banana Republic. Perry says that enabled them to add brands such as Sperry Top-Sider, Toms and Ugg that made it more of a lifestyle store. The remodeling was a big part of that effort as well. Warm lighting and light wood shelves and fixtures allow product to stand out on displays. The broth-

THE MIROBALLI SHOES’ LEGACY LIVES STRONG THANKS TO A LOYAL CUSTOMER BASE AND ITS DEDICATED EMPLOYEES. BY BRITTANY LEITNER

Brothers in ArmsFrom left: Perry, Dan, their father Joe and Tony. Above: The Orland Park store.


fw_10/11_13_retail_profile_01.indd 18 10/17/13 6:51 PM

ers even brought in a leather sofa and a flat screen TV to invite customers to stick around even after they’ve purchased something. “It’s like a commu-nity center,” says Perry. “Customers do come just to hang out.”

That welcoming vibe was the plan from day one when the brothers took over the business. The sentiment being, they didn’t want to be just another non-descript shoe store in a generic mall—stores that come across more as a commodity in the eyes of consumers, rather than a destination they make a point of shopping in. That’s why they moved out of their previous mall location in Orland Park and into a more distinct strip center. They recently purchased the 10,000-square-foot strip, which is anchored by its 4,000-square-foot store. The surrounding tenants include doctors’ offices and a local women’s boutique, Jean Therapy. “This gives our store more of a comfort fashion feel,” says Perry. He also notes the new location is a lot more visible to people passing by who may not know of Miroballi Shoes and it’s “easily accessible.”

Owning an entire strip mall may seem like added stress on three brothers with already full plates, but Perry insists there are few drawbacks to being a landlord as well. “We have been renting in malls and lifestyle centers for so many years, we were ready to own our own real estate and be in control of our own destiny,” he says.

As for individualized duties, the brothers capitalize on each other’s strengths. Perry is more involved with the operations of the three New Balance concept stores, Dan mainly handles the operations of Miroballi Shoes and the store’s eBay site, and Tony works on their computer systems and is more involved in marketing and administrative duties.

It’s a team effort that weathered the recession and is holding its own in the slow recovery. “Business has been pretty steady,” confirms Dan, not-ing that this year’s second quarter has picked up. But the hot weather in September definitely put a drag on the start of the boot season. “We had 90 degree weather for a couple of weeks,” he laments, “But we had an early fall promotion and our customers responded well to it. We’re looking for a pretty strong October through December.”

Vendor-sponsored trunk shows have been a huge part of fall sales efforts this year. “We have had them scheduled from mid-September through the middle of November,” says Perry. The full-day events encour-age customers to try on styles by offering a scratch-off reward card in return. Customers can win anything from an in-store gift to a Visa gift card. “It works really well,” says Perry. “It’s a lot of fun, and our employees get really fired up for it.”

POWER TRIPIn order to keep a loyal and motivated sales staff, Tony says the key is giving employees power. “We’ve developed a unique culture on the sales floor,” he offers. “We allow our employees to make decisions that benefit the custom-er, without needing to consult a manager.” This can mean anything from educating customers on fit to calling on a brand to make another shipment. That’s why a new hire trains for anywhere from two to four weeks before they can even begin to shadow someone on the sales floor, Perry says. Every employee is required to be well-versed on all the brands’ respective features and benefits as well as have basic knowledge of foot anatomy.

The most important aspect the brothers look for in a new hire is some-one who fits well into Miroballi Shoes culture, which includes being able to start and grow relationships with customers. “We look for a positive attitude, and if they can carry a conversation,” says Tony. That said, the Miroballis don’t hire often. “It’s very difficult to get into our company. Unless the candidate is recommended or carries a lot of credentials, we generally won’t hire,” says Tony, adding, “Our turnover isn’t very high. We have a core group of people who have been with us since the beginning.” Members of the sales staff have an experience level averaging 20 to 30 years each.

Employees are paid commission, and Miroballi Shoes utilizes the “up sys-tem,” which is basically a rotation that calls upon customers as they enter. “The first person to arrive is the first one on the list,” says Tony. “It creates a very even playing field for employees and they coexist very nicely.”


Employees who have shown potential and interest in wanting to do more within the com-pany are brought to trade shows as well as sit in on vendor meetings. It’s a practice the brothers started after taking over the business from their father. “He used to take us with him on buying trips,” says Perry, recalling how the trips intrigued them to get more involved with the business. Sim-ilarly, he notes that when sales associates return from a show, it’s a topic of conversation amongst employees, and gives them a broader knowledge base to share with customers.

The Miroballis also strive to make sure employ-ees have a good relationship with vendors, which includes helping negotiate incentive programs. “Vendors are really open to that,” Perry says. But, more so, Miroballi Shoes encourages its employ-ees to develop strong customer relationships, which the brothers agree is the No. 1 lesson they learned from their father. “When we first meet a new customer, it’s important to make them a per-manent customer,” stresses Perry.

The brothers note that 75 to 80 percent of cus-tomers are repeat ones. Employees take extensive notes on their interaction with each customer, including which styles they liked, their size and fit, and what brands they were interested in so they can make recommendations based on previous purchases. “If a customer asked about a brand and we later picked it up, employees will call them personally and let them know,” says Perry. Employees are also required to send handwritten thank you notes to first-time buyers.

Not surprisingly, the brothers have customers who began shopping Miroballi Shoes decades earlier, remembering the level of customer service their father provided. “I was at the Wheaton store this year and a woman came up to me and said, ‘I remember your father, he helped my mother who had a really hard time finding shoes that fit her properly,’” Tony says. “That made a big impression on her. It made her feel important, and not forgot-ten,” he adds.

Tony, Dan and Perry credit their father for not only instilling the requirement for top-notch cus-tomer service, but also the importance of work-ing together as a family. “He taught us how to capitalize on each other’s strengths and develop our team members as best as possible to make them an extension of us,” says Perry. A good sign they are succeeding in this regard, he adds, is that customers often assume members of the sales staff are also family members. “They take such a great ownership in their business and it shows,” he says.

The brothers’ commitment to caring for their employees and customers extends outside the store, as Miroballi Shoes interacts with the local community on various levels. It’s involved with Share Your Soles, an organization that recycles gently worn shoes and donates them to impover-ished areas around the world. To encourage cus-tomers to take part, the stores offer $10 off a new pair of shoes for any gently used pair a customer drops off in the store. “In addition, we give the local food pantry a $2 donation toward every pair we donate,” Perry notes.

BROTHERLY LOVETony, Dan and Perry were three of five Miroballi sons who went into the family business, and they have high hopes one (or some) of their children will take over the operation one day. Between the three of them, they have seven children. So the odds of continuing the legacy their father started

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in 1959 looks promising. “All of our kids have worked in the stores at some point,” says Perry, adding with a laugh, “We’re working on it.”

In the meantime, family gatherings are often dominated by shoe talk, but Perry says this doesn’t bother them. “The best part of working with fam-ily is that everyone is 100 percent invested in the business,” he says. “And shoes are part of who we are, there’s no complaints about that.” Next year the brothers are slated to launch an e-commerce site, which they view will be an extension of the brick-and-mortar store experi-

ence. “It’s going to have the same type of integrity behind it and representation. We plan on formu-lating strong partnerships with our vendors and our customers,” says Perry.

Once the e-commerce site finds its footing, the brothers are open to expanding their brick-and-mortar operations. “Opportunities come when there is a need,” notes Perry. “First, we would like to expand and remodel our Wheaton store and add more shop-in-shops.”

The Miroballi brothers represent a classic small business success story, the backbone of the

American economy. The fact that the stores are based in the heartland, where the brothers are committed to treating their employees, custom-ers and surrounding communities like they are family, drives home the fact that a small busi-ness can make a huge impact—one employee at a time, serving one customer at a time. Along those lines, the brothers offer a bit of takeaway advice to fellow independent retailers: “Pay close attention to your business and understand the numbers. Don’t buy for your closet, buy for your customers.” •

BALANCE OF POWER Having successfully sold New Balance in Miroballi Shoes since 1997, the brothers were approached by the brand’s head sales rep in 2004 to see if they would be interested in opening and operating concept stores. Soon after they had a sit down with New Balance owner Jim Davis at the Orland Park store to discuss plans. “We sat in the back room and talked over pizza and Coca-Cola,” Perry laughs. “It turns out, we had very similar cultures in terms of how we run our store, our cus-tomers and our outlook.”

The similarities include the fact that Miroballi Shoes and New Balance make sure every employee goes through extensive training on product and fit as well as make an effort to become involved with the local community through outreach programs, such as the Susan G. Komen foundation. “They have taught us to really become involved and to build our brand within our

communities,” Perry notes. Moreover, the Miroballi customer is also one who appreciates comfort, says Perry. “New Balance is built on sizes and widths and an excellent product,” he says. “The New Balance stores are another avenue to grow our business since it’s a customer we are already very familiar with.” A bonus, Perry says, is that since opening the stores,

Miroballi employees have gained a better understanding on the health, wellness and fitness categories. “We are able to learn the latest trends from those core enthusiasts and that leads us to which direction to go in our Miroballi Shoes stores,” he says.

The first New Balance store opened in nearby Merrillville, IN, in 2006, and has expanded to two other locations in Naperville, IL, and Granger, IN. All are located in strip malls

and lifestyle centers. But the brothers don’t stress managing five stores. “It’s all about having really good people who work as a team,” says Perry. “Our employees love what they do and it makes our jobs easier.” —B.L.

fw_10/11_13_retail_profile_01.indd 21 10/18/13 11:44 AM


ICHEL MEYNARD ALWAYS did it his way. Driven. Determined. Daring. They are adjectives

befitting a man who was an engineer by trade, a designer at heart and an entrepreneur through sheer

determination and necessity. Meynard was one of the first to source footwear out of Brazil, beginning in the

early ’70s, and, starting in the early ’90s, out of China, where his company still cranks out millions of pairs annually that are sold around the world. Meynard’s designs have helped put many names on the footwear map, including Fayva, Bakers, Bass and Wal-Mart, to name a few.

What made Meynard, the designer, so unique was his ability to create a broad range of product for an equally broad customer base. As Fred Kraft, DMM of Bon Ton, says, “Michel designed shoes for leading brands as well as for discounters who needed the price to come in under $20. And he could make all the shoes look great. That’s not easy to do.” Gary Champion, president of Earth Inc., cites Meynard’s extensive industry knowledge and almost clairvoyant ability to read fashion trends. “He knew the footwear market better than anyone I’ve ever known,” Champion says. “He could make a $500 shoe, a $100 shoe and a $29 shoe that would always incorporate some aspects of where the trends were going and be right on. He was brilliant at it.”

Danny Wasserman, owner of Tip Top Shoes in New York, says Meynard’s breadth of design ability stemmed from his good senses—specifically, his eyes and ears. “Michel was a listener and a watcher of fashion trends,” Wasserman says. “He was the person to go to for the large department stores when they needed shoes.”

Bob Infantino, president of Drydock Footwear and former head of Clarks in North America, describes Meynard as a rare blend of astute businessman, true shoemaker with knowledge of every step of the process and genuine artist. “I have never met anyone who possessed all those attributes in such abundance,” Infantino says. “He had style, he had common sense and he

had courage. When Michel was in the room, you could feel his passion and his excitement for the business.” Infantino adds, “He stayed out of the limelight, but he was a force and will be missed.” Tarek Hassan, co-owner of The Tannery in Boston, says Meynard was an incredible shoemaker who taught him a great deal. “We would talk about shoes for hours,” Hassan says. “He knew how a shoe was made, where it was made and what it should be made of. There are only

a handful of people in this industry with Michel’s breadth of knowledge and experience.”

FIRST STEPSMeynard’s success in the footwear industry might

never have happened if it hadn’t been for a chance meeting with a fellow Frenchman in a New England bar one evening in the late ’60s. At the time, Meynard was trying to make a go

Industry icon Michel Meynard, founder of Meynard Designs and Earth Inc., leaves behind a career legacy full of firsts in the

fields of design, sourcing and branding. B Y G R E G D U T T E R

I N M E M O R Y O F M I C H E L M E Y N A R D

BIGDream

M

FW_10_11_13_Meynard_02.indd 22 10/21/13 2:17 PM

2013 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

of it as a sales rep for a shoe machinery parts manufacturer. He was calling on area manufacturers, a task made all the more challenging due to the fact that Meynard spoke little English and his company gave little financial support to help him get the job done.He was staying in roadside motels, driving a cheap Chevy compact and doing his best to squeak out enough earnings to support himself and his family back in France. As fate would have it, the Frenchman who overheard Meynard speaking that night turned out to be a shoe industry exec. They struck up a conversation and quickly hit it off. He was a part owner of the French brand Trendsetters, and he mentioned that his partner was having some financial issues. The two exchanged information and, as far as Meynard believed, that was that. About four months later, however, Meynard received a call with an offer to manage Trendsetters. Meynard, 26 at the time, was completely caught off guard and unsure whether or not he could run a company. But there seemed to be no pot of gold waiting at the end of his current endeavors, so he accepted.

Little did he know that his new employer was looking into sourcing shoes out of Brazil. He soon found himself on a plane there to look for potential partners. Meynard also had no idea that Trendsetters would soon be sold to Wolverine Worldwide. During one of those early Brazilian sourcing expeditions Meynard came to two important realizations: 1. He didn’t want to work for someone else. 2. He wanted to design shoes. Shortly after, he met a Brazilian who soon became his business partner and together they launched their own shoe development agency. It would form the launching pad that skyrocketed Meynard into one of the industry’s most prolific designers, delivering him wealth and notoriety, including a formal greeting with the president of Brazil to acknowledge Meynard’s contributions to the country’s economy.

Meynard had found his calling: Designer. And while his initial expectations might not have been to sell millions of pairs, his son, Phil Meynard, (now chairman of Earth Inc.), says his passion for footwear design made it the inevitable result. “Every breathing moment that my father was on the planet he was thinking about shoes, talking about shoes and working on shoes,” he says. “Even on the rare vacations he took, when traveling

with my mom they would be visiting all the shoe stores in the various cities.”

BOOM TO BUST, REPEATMeynard’s career trajectory was anything but linear. After his initial success spike, he was diagnosed with Hodgkin’s in 1981. He rushed back to the States for treatment and the prospects of survival were grim at the time. While undergoing extensive rounds of radiation and two years of chemotherapy, his partner ran off with the business, taking all of Meynard’s sketches, samples and contacts. “He was stuck in the hospital and couldn’t defend his business,” his son says. In order to be able to start a new business, Meynard had to sell nearly all of his possessions, including a Rolls-Royce that he had bought while undergoing treatment with the belief that his days were numbered. As his son recalls: “He always wanted a Rolls-Royce. But, being my dad, with his love of fast cars, he took it to a custom shop and had massive race wheels put on to make it a ‘hot rod Rolls-Royce.’”

Meynard couldn’t hold on to his hot wheels, but he did win his bout with cancer and rebuilt a Brazilian-based private label business. In the years just before his illness, his need for speed also took the form of powerboat racing. (Meynard flew helicopters as well.) The hobby quickly grew into an obsession, and Meynard became a world champion in offshore racing in 1980. But the following year a spectacular accident put an end to his racing career. (A video of the crash has become an Internet legend.) While he escaped serious injury, it was a close enough call that Meynard’s wife sank his hobby. He had named his boat Fayva Shoes after the Morse Shoe chain that sold his wildly successful burnished wood clog design. In just two years, 18 million pairs were exported. Meynard had the clogs stained with sponges and brushes by hand. He dubbed the effect “Latigo” (the vanity license plate on his car) that became an industry term.

Refocused on designing and sourcing shoes, Meynard came to another sharp career detour in the late ’80s. Due

Industry icon Michel Meynard, founder of Meynard Designs and Earth Inc., leaves behind a career legacy full of firsts in the

fields of design, sourcing and branding. B Y G R E G D U T T E R

BIGA young Michel Meynard and at left, later in life, with his signature rock star-worthy hairstyle.

The thrill of victory: Meynard celebrating his 1980 World Championship in offshore power boat racing.

Clockwise from top: Meynard being honored by Ernesto Geisel, former president of Brazil (center); the ’70s burnished clog sensation for Fayva Shoes; a hybrid fleet of cars at Earth’s manufacturing HQ in China.



In the January 2009 issue of Footwear Plus, Michel Meynard was the subject of the Q&A feature. In the interview, Meynard talked extensively about his career, design philosophy and vision for Earth, Inc. He was candid, insightful and, at times, refreshingly blunt.

Having done hundreds of such interviews over the past 15 years with executives across the footwear spectrum, what stood out with respect to Meynard—in addition to his engaging French accent—was his breadth of industry experience and knowledge. I’ve interviewed my share of marketing visionaries, product geniuses, number crunchers and great motivators, but rarely has a subject possessed all those qualities to the extent that Meynard did. By the time

we finished speaking, I felt like I had just

completed a tutorial on the art of shoemaking. I had also gotten

to know the man who was at the forefront of this field for the past four decades. Meynard had all the right answers. But throughout the conversation, he was modest, witty, funny and frank. Above all, he was honest. It was a delightful two-hour conversation.

Below are some memorable quotes from that interview. —G.D. “I’m a shoe guy. When I see a retailer look at my shoes and react with a huge smile…that’s what makes me happy. It’s not about saying my company is bigger than someone else’s. I passed that stage a long time ago.”

“Design is something that has to be desirable. In tough times, you may not buy as much, you may not buy top of the line—but if it looks really great, then you are going to do everything you can to buy that product.”

“Design should be based on whether you love it or hate it and not a compromise.”

“Insole and last making are the keys to any good footwear.”

“Style for style is not the way I see the shoe business. Whatever you do, it should be something that is technically correct.”

“We are a solid, family-owned business that believes in offering something the customer can trust. We don’t tell any B.S. stories.”

“Wellness can be defined as feeling good, but it can also be defined as being good for the planet. Wellness also involves human rights issues.”

“Business has never been easy. It was tough years ago, it is tough today and it will be tough 20 years from now.”

“I tried to retire several years ago but thought, ‘What the hell am I going to do?’ Every day I am happy to go to work.” •

to a Brazilian currency crisis, the ability to make shoes affordably ended. Meynard hung on for as long as he could, but in order to survive he had to look elsewhere. The first stop was Taiwan. Meynard and a partner got the business up and running, but, believe it or not, that person also fled with their business plan. Meynard once again had to, as his son describes, “sell everything” and start from scratch. This time he moved to China. The operation soon flourished and, to this day, employs thousands in a state-of-the-art facility that makes millions of pairs annually.

Meynard’s ability to rebuild a company from ground zero—repeatedly—reflects his steely determination. His son says he was relentless and fearless. “He never stopped. And he was never afraid to put it all on the line,” Phil says. “Most people are afraid to take everything they own and lay it on the line. He wasn’t.”

Meynard’s approach to design was similarly determined. He worked primarily on a “love it or hate it” premise. Not surprisingly, when it came to discussing his designs, his opinions were often strong. “When he was convinced of an idea he would take it to completion no matter what anybody said around him,” his son says. Even when dealing with major accounts like Wal-Mart, where millions of pairs could be at stake, Meynard would stick to his convictions. “If they disagreed, he’d basically say, ‘You’re out of your (expletive) mind,’” Phil says with a chuckle now. “Nine times out of ten, he would win the argument. But he was willing to take that gamble because he believed so much in his designs.”

In addition to being a passionate designer, Meynard was gracious and generous. “He would give me a hug and a kiss whenever I saw him,” Kraft says. “He was a charming man who invited me into his home often.” Sam Hassan, co-owner of The Tannery, echoes those sentiments: “Michel was an incredible shoemaker, but more importantly we enjoyed a close personal friendship for years. Our industry has lost a wonderful man.” Meynard was also incredibly loyal. In fact, the bank that gave Meynard his first loan to

source shoes in Brazil is the same one the company does business with four decades later, though the name has changed a few times.

LEAVING HIS MARKIf Meynard had any regrets in his storied career, it was not starting on his last venture sooner. Rather than put all his efforts into making designs for others, he and his son acquired the rights to the then-defunct Earth brand in about 2000, with the goal of building it into a global lifestyle powerhouse. They began by reintroducing the brand’s iconic negative heel in updated styles. While nearly 25 years had elapsed since its heyday, Earth still possessed a cult following that swore by its comfort and wellness attributes, namely improved body alignment. Several years later, they launched Earthies, an innovative comfort-based construction featuring heels. It freed Meynard from the negative heel’s design constraints and allowed him to push the creative envelope once again.

“Earthies came out of nowhere. In just two years, it has become one of our top-selling brands, doing more than $400,000 at cost this year,” says Gary Hauss, owner of the J. Stephens chain based in California. “The colors, materials and constructions are a completely fashionable look while also including all the necessary elements to make it a true comfort product.”

Kraft of Bon Ton says both Earth and Earthies have gained traction. “Even though Earth is a comfort brand, Michel lent a fashion perspective,” he says. “That’s why we have fallen in love with what he was doing. We’re in Earth in a significant manner and Earthies in a smaller way, and both are doing very well.”

In a sense, Meynard’s vision for Earth Inc. was just beginning to take off. He was on the verge of another career spike when cancer returned and, during treatment, he succumbed. He was 73. But, according to Champion, the company has been left in the best of hands and poised to fulfill Meynard’s vision. “We’re starting to take hold and I’m glad he got to see that before he lost the battle,” he says. “Our goal is to fulfill Michel’s dream.” •

Well SaidWhen it came to the shoe business, Michel Meynard had a good answer—for nearly everything.


THE EUROPEANREPORTAmidst news of a new, trendier concept and earlier dates (July 30-Aug. 1) for next year’s spring edition, brands and buyers at the latest GDS show in Düsseldorf, Germany, gathered to talk shop and find Spring/Summer ’14 trends. Short boots, gold, black-and-white combinations, and sneaker hybrids led the way as 815 exhibitors from 36 countries presented their collections to a crowd of 21,000 attendees.

The show’s global perspective, including many from emerging markets like Eastern Europe, South America and the Middle East, is partly what drove GDS to revisit how the footwear business operates. In a press conference, Show Director Kirstin Deutelmoser says GDS is looking to merge more accessories into the show, re-conceptualizing how product is displayed (the new format will divide brands into three categories: High Street, Pop Up and Studio) as well as the aforementioned earlier dates. “As a leading trade fair we want to give retailers the opportunity for guidance at the start of the season,” added Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, president and CEO of GDS parent company, Messe Düsseldorf.

Deutelmoser reports the initial response to the changes from exhibitors is encouraging, and notes that the show is doing everything in its power to keep exhibitor costs down and buyer interest high. Part of that effort includes media and blogger events to ensure brands’ newsworthy stories reach the public. Product displays and media walls will permeate the show floor and guided press walks will be added to the itinerary. Deutelmoser says plans to make Düsseldorf a hot spot for the footwear industry will involve more retail-based events during the show that will allow buyers, exhibitors and consumers to mingle. In the meantime, spring is in the air and here’s a recap on what’s blowing in the trade winds out of Europe. —ANGELA VELASQUEZ

Positive & NegativeThis season’s tour de force of black and white footwear is anything but basic with sculptural heels, dizzying patterns and swoon-worthy craftsmanship in both men’s and women’s styles. Iterations for spring tend to skew brighter with generous heaps of white taking center stage.

Dynamic DuoMeet the new smoking slippers: The two-piece pointed toe flats that are striking a casual yet elegant note for a diverse group of wearers thanks to an eclectic mix of prints and fabrications. Nautical stripes and global-inspired patterns lend a summery vibe, while patents and neutrals are destined to become part of women’s work wardrobes.

Floris Van BommelKenzo

Print Master As women’s styles grow increasingly sleeker, men’s is ramping up with colorful prints and trims. A surfer vibe reverberates throughout men’s collections with Hawaiian hibiscus prints and painterly lashes of color that exude a carefree summer feel.

Gabor

Loucos & Santos

Piccadilly

Peter KaiserLloyd

GDS2.indd 26 10/18/13 10:54 AM


Thick of It Flatform silhouettes have loomed in collections for a couple of seasons, but this time around the impactful silhouette is a little more country and a little less rock ’n roll. The oxford and loafer styles are toned down with earthy neutrals and bohemian floral prints.

Foil PlanCandy colored metallic hues are a sweet alternative to silver and gold, especially in the juniors’ market where flashy sneakers reign. And a touch of metallic cool blue or rose gold adds interest to tried and true dress silhouettes.

Fringe BenefitsGone are the days when fringe was just a Western-inspired accent. This season it’s the main attraction on a scope of trendy sandal silhouettes. The lush embellishment adds a glam factor to statement-making gladiators, exotic wedges and as tropical leaf motifs.

Catch of the DayLook to the deep sea for style inspiration with footwear spawning fish scales. From hints of metallic shimmer to finely perforated details, the new animal print marks a new tide of luxurious embellishments for a school of silhouettes.

Super Star

Coqueterra

Ash

Stéphanie Classic

Cubanas

Dumond

United Nude

Nat-2

Paul & Joe Sister

Strenesse

GDS2.indd 27 10/18/13 10:54 AM

28

The Glow Brand

Bright, light and philanthropic, The Glow Brand specializes in trendy rubber footwear for a cause. The range of soft TPU pumps comes in five electric colors and features organic rubber and cotton insoles for cushioning and breathability, as well as a solid heel construction. Tammy Haines, managing director, notes that the heel is made with reinforced glass fiber polyamide for strength. Each hue is linked to a different charity—blue for the International Fund for Animals and yellow for The Arts Foundation, for example—to which the company will donate 10 percent of each purchase. Haines says the colors are great conversation starters, but adds that plans for black and nude versions are in the works, too.

Crisian M London

A trip to Dubai led Creative Director Crisian Monagas to reinterpret the city’s towering buildings and vast sand dunes as footwear in his young collection. The line of stiletto sandals and single sole pumps (Monagas says platforms are out) got off on an elegant foot, launching in Harvey Nichols in London in 2011. For Spring ’14, stunners include a nude cage sandal with a light reflecting, faceted metallic gold heel, pony hair pumps flecked with shimmery foil and a black and white grouping interjected with hits of shocking pink. Linear heels, which Monagas notes help create an illusion of higher height, are a brand signature.

Loucos & Santos

The little sister of the Jorge Bischoff brand offers a more fearless take on the season’s trend to younger consumers. Strappy sandals that creep up to the ankle—a modern take on gladiators—make up the bulk of the spring collection, while a range of resort-ready sandals and flats decked out in nautical stripes add a sporty

vibe. Coordinating handbags complete the trendy look.

Munich

Lilly’s Closet

A melting pot of cultures drives Lilly’s Closet, a line of free-spirited, au courant styles out of Brazil from the Paqueta Group. For Spring ’14, the collection visits New York tapping into Gotham’s love for runway-inspired fashion with black-and-white combinations, metallic materials, pavement-pounding block heels and quirky ballet flats with sayings such as “Enjoy Life.” The brand’s Brazilian roots shine in evening styles with single sole pointed toe pumps, cage heels and sexy lace-up stilettos accented with this season’s metallic of choice, gold. Brand rep Rafeal Henemann says the company hopes to enter the U.S. market

The happy hour provisions may have been 100 percent German, but it was a new class of international talent livening up the GDS show floor with their unique—and sometimes eclectic—global iterations on the season’s trends. From unlikely color combinations and new materials to whimsical baubles and heels that tested gravity, these fresh and innovative lines proved that a little experimentation and creative license might just result in universal appeal. —A.V.

Guava

With an eye for dramatic architectural shapes and a mind on sustainability, Guava Founder and Creative Director (and Jimmy Choo alum) Ines Caleiro blends the unlikely worlds with a sharp collection of men’s and women’s dress and casual footwear made in Portugal. The line features ecological leathers in rich hues of coral, cobalt and teal, accented with hints of neon piping and smoky Plexiglas details. Men’s styles veer towards the classics (loafers and oxfords) while the women’s group includes ankle booties, wedge sandals and pumps decked out with edgy heels worthy of a modern art museum.

BRAZIL ENGLAND

GERMANY

BRAZILPORTUGAL

Globetrotting

GDS2.indd 28 10/18/13 10:53 AM


FORWARD THINKINGTaking a look into the sartorial crystal ball, Marga Indra Heide of trend forecasting firm ModEurop, predicts another fall season of moody hues, cozy materials and lustrous gold embellishments. Gold, despite blanketing the market for a number of seasons, has yet to hit its greatest potential Indra Heide says, noting that, “People aren’t patient enough to let a trend mature anymore.” Here’s a sneak peek at the other potential Fall ’14 trends. —A.V.

Clox

Designed by graphic artist, Mia Maric, and produced in a small factory in Croatia, this imaginative take on classic pumps and flats makes a timely statement with one-of-a-kind clock embellishments. Adorned on each toe, the mini clocks are outfitted with custom made clock “legs” instead of “hands” and can keep track of any time zone the wearer wishes. Each pair—available in basic neutrals, candy red, yellow and mint—are packaged in keepsake cake boxes.

TRÉS CHICDriven by Prada’s influential ’40s-inspired collections of voluminous coats, boudoir-like dresses and pencil skirts, T-straps and shoes with pointed lasts are expected to gain traction. Chain link embellishments toughen up the retro look, while fur trim adds drama.

HOMEWARD BOUNDSoft and fluffy sweaters paired with homey checks and plaid is set to warm up the season. This winter might have seen a decline in boot sales, but these heavy tops will need to be balanced with tall riding boots accented with shades of honey, olive and khaki. On the men’s side, hybrid sneaker boots rule in oily leathers.

FORMAL DRESSAll black, straightforward designs in men and women’s fashion—think narrow neckties and slim pants—are spurring the need for strong and sturdy footwear. Chelsea boots with chunky outsoles, as well as pointed toe booties and smoking slippers finesse the sharp look. Embossed crocodile materials and black-and- silver combinations add shine.

GRUNGE ROMANCE The Gen X revival continues, this time with less focus on the hard (i.e. studs and combat boots) and more attention on feminine cardigans, floral dresses and knit hosiery. The new look features short boots with sandal-like cutouts, sneakers with zipper detail and over- the-knee boots for mini skirts.

GOOD SPORTSHi-tech materials, an abundance of white and geometric shapes from the outdoor performance world is infiltrating street fashion. Men’s sneakers are accented with quilted stitching, animal prints and thick white soles. Women’s styles skew snow princess with nylon boots bedazzled with Swarovski crystals and metallic materials.

Xperimental

Already a hit with Portuguese concept stores, Xperimental is making headway with retailers across Europe, says the brand’s Creative Director Celia Silva. The year old women’s line makes a bold statement with sandals, short boots, loafers and slingbacks with a bit of weight to them thanks to heavy flatforms and lugged outsoles. Silva blends the modern silhouettes with unexpected earthy textures like wood and pony hair, resulting in a fresh take on everyday footwear for fashion risk-takers. Golden mustard and rich emerald green adds a color pop for spring—colors that double as neutrals.

Get ShortyUnlike floral crowns and acid wash cut-offs, short boots may be one trend that has emerged from the summer music festival scene that has staying power. Officially an all-seasons silhouette, Spring ’14 versions are swathed in lace, crinkly metallic leather, woven materials and crochet for a carefree and effortlessly cool look.

Kappa

PORTUGAL

CROATIA

Sendra

GDS2.indd 29 10/18/13 10:53 AM


Team: VIONIC

Player: ENDURANCE

Stats: Part of Vionic’s first full men’s collection, Endurance will be delivered just in time

to capitalize on consumers’ New Year’s resolution to get off the couch and get fit, says Chairman Phillip Vasyli. “Our

all-purpose walking shoe features Orthaheel Technology that helps to reduce over-pronation, which can improve foot function

and help relieve associated conditions such as plantar fasciitis, heel and knee pain,” he explains. Available in three color ways, flexible rubber outsoles provide stability and traction, while soft leather/

mesh uppers are lightweight and breathable.Feedback: Vasyli reports that buyers love that the shoe is available

in a complete range of sizes and widths.Delivery Date: 12/15 Retail Price: $119.95

HOME RUN DERBY BATTER UP... AN ALL-STAR LINE-UP OF SPRING ’14 STYLES THAT LOOK TO KNOCK IT OUT OF THE PARK AT RETAIL.

By Brittany Leitner, Lyndsay McGregor and Angela Velasquez

Team: SOFFT

Player: BROOKE

Stats: After last summer’s overload of color blocking, Sofft is reverting to simplicity with Brooke.

“This style features a great molded footbed lined with suede and cushioned with a layer of comfort Latex,” says

President David Issler. The relaxed thong slide comes in eight colors, from earthy hues like luggage and peach to pops of ochre

and aqua, and the lightweight cork midsole is designed to contour to the foot over time.

Feedback: Retailers say the style has all the features that customers expect from a Euro-comfort shoe (leather upper, leather foot bed)

but at an accessible price point. Delivery Date: 2/25 Retail Price: $79.95


Team: EARTHIES

Player: CASELLA

Stats: An update from past seasons’ popular stacked heels, the T-strap sandal keys into the

fashion-meets-comfort category with a cushiony raised footbed and super-soft, color soaked nubuck uppers. Laser

cut details on the vamp hit home on the cutout trend that looks to be a heavy hitter this spring, according to Robb Carter, senior

vice president of sales of Earth Brands. “It’s a nice and airy look. It’s an interesting pattern that isn’t your typical floral,” he describes. “And

it looks beautiful on the foot.”Feedback: Retailers are drawn to the grass green version dubbed,

Fern. “It’s basically turned into a core color for us and it looks especially spring-like on this style,”

Carter says. Delivery date: 2/1 Wholesale price: $80

FW_10_11_13_comfortFeature01.indd 30 10/18/13 4:45 PM


Team: VIVOBAREFOOT

Player: ULYSSES

Stats: Made of microfiber and polyurethane lamination, the Ulysses natural motion sandal was

inspired by the classic woven leather Huarache. The elastic strap allows for an adjustable, custom fit and a rubber

outsole provides an abrasion-resistant grip. Feedback: “Retailers are most attracted to the functional, clean lines and sporty look,” says Steve Libonati, president of Ralph

Libonati Footwear, distributors of VIVOBAREFOOT. The Ulysses comes in three color combinations, with blue and light gray the

most popular with retailers, according to Libonati.Delivery Date: 3/1 Wholesale price: $40

Team: EARTHIES

Player: CASELLA

Stats: An update from past seasons’ popular stacked heels, the T-strap sandal keys into the

fashion-meets-comfort category with a cushiony raised footbed and super-soft, color soaked nubuck uppers. Laser

cut details on the vamp hit home on the cutout trend that looks to be a heavy hitter this spring, according to Robb Carter, senior

vice president of sales of Earth Brands. “It’s a nice and airy look. It’s an interesting pattern that isn’t your typical floral,” he describes. “And

it looks beautiful on the foot.”Feedback: Retailers are drawn to the grass green version dubbed,

Fern. “It’s basically turned into a core color for us and it looks especially spring-like on this style,”

Carter says. Delivery date: 2/1 Wholesale price: $80

Team: ALEGRIA

Player: PALOMA FLOWER POWER

Stats: Floral prints have been popular in recent seasons, but Alegria calls its Paloma Flower

Power strap Mary Jane a best seller since 2009. “It’s a conversation piece,” says Designer Megan Gold. “It’s a favorite of both our workforce customer and our core comfort casual

customer.” To keep the Mary Jane Velcro strap interesting, She added a metal button with a flower imprint. “The Flower Power leather has a retro ’60s vibe and is very colorful–two things our

customer loves,” Gold says. Feedback: The Paloma has been a steady seller at retail for the past four years, but when it made its debut on QVC last month, offering

up six color ways, the shoe sold out in six minutes. Delivery Date: 12/1 Wholesale price: $59.50



Team: KALSØ BY EARTH

Player: ENCORE

Stats: From a fashion standpoint, Robb Carter, senior vice president of sales of Earth Brands, says the

Encore cork sandal taps into the ever-present bohemian trend with beaded stone embellishments, full-grain leathers and

a vintage feel. From a Kalsø standpoint, the slide is fully equipped with the original negative heel comfort footbed that put the brand

on the map decades ago. Carter notes, “In the past we did a lot with gladiator silhouettes. This is a fresh take for us, and the red version is

selling really well.” Feedback: The Kalsø consumer is typically into the technical features of

footwear, Carter notes. The Encore delivers those features, but also amps up the line’s overall fashion quota, giving shoppers an option

to feel good and spice up their closets. Delivery date: 2/1 Wholesale price: $47.50

Team: BØRN

Player: NIKKA

Stats: “We’ve always done well with gladiator constructions whether they were trending or not, but

this one is unlike any we’ve had in the collection before,” reports Børn General Manager John Heron, noting the shoe

skews more Grecian than Roman with an interlocked woven upper. A zipper entry and ¾-inch wedge modernize the sandal, while

adjustable ankle straps and a natural footbed deliver ease. Natural is outselling black and pewter colorations. Heron says the matching

footbed makes it pop on the shelf. Feedback: With so much business happening with updated styles, Heron

believes the Nikka will be Børn’s biggest success story of the season because “it’s so different from the rest.” He adds, “This really is fresh product.” Delivery date: 3/1

Wholesale price: $43.50

HOME RUN DERBYA ONE-TWO PUNCH OF STYLE AND COMFORT.

Team: BIRKENSTOCKPlayer: ARIZONA

Stats: With its cork footbed, roomy toe box and thick buckled straps, everyone is familiar with

Birkenstock’s classic Arizona sandal. Next season it gets a makeover to go with its newfound celebrity cache—Ashley

Olsen and Chloe Sevigny were recently snapped wearing variations of the two-strap style—and Birkenstock USA CEO David Kahan says the white Birko-Flor update (an acrylic-polyamide mix

that lends a clean, leather-like finish) is sure to be a big hit amongst the fashion pack.

Feedback: White dominated the ready-to-wear runways for next spring and, according to Kahan, “Demand from retailers [for the

Arizona White] is off the charts.” Delivery Date: 2/1 Retail price: $89.95



Team: DANSKO

Player: FRIDA

Stats: On the heels of this season’s successful closed-toe Havana collection, its Spring ’14 offering

of sandals is leading the way in bookings. Batting leadoff is the Frida, which features a leather hardware embellished wedge, a lightweight polyurethane heel and a cork footbed.

Available in six colorways including brandy, black, cranberry, navy and sand the “Frida appeals across the board,” says Ebeth Pitman,

vice president of marketing, adding, “It’s a very wearable heel.”Feedback: At first glance, the Frida is a fashionable design, with leather

cross straps and 3.5-inch wedge heel. But it also has the comfort security that appeals to Dansko

loyalists. “Retailers have told us Frida is a winner for many different types of

consumers,” confirms Pitman. Delivery Date: 1/2

Wholesale price: $72.50

Team: AETREX

Player: MONTEREY

Stats: The brand’s “younger and sportier” sandal contains the same comfort DNA of other

successful Aetrex collections, including its Lynco orthotic footbed for support, balance and alignment; memory foam

cushioning and anti-microbal techonology. “We considered what men would be looking for in a warm weather shoe and found

there is a need for comfortable, supportive and stylish sandals that are appropriate for more than just the beach,” says Evan Schwartz,

president at Aetrex Worldwide.Feedback: “Retailer response has been extremely positive,” Schwartz reports, giving props to the adjustable style’s unique blend of sport

and healthy features and benefits. The brown version is currently outselling black.

Delivery date: 1/1 Wholesale price: $50

Team: BIRKENSTOCKPlayer: ARIZONA

Stats: With its cork footbed, roomy toe box and thick buckled straps, everyone is familiar with

Birkenstock’s classic Arizona sandal. Next season it gets a makeover to go with its newfound celebrity cache—Ashley

Olsen and Chloe Sevigny were recently snapped wearing variations of the two-strap style—and Birkenstock USA CEO David Kahan says the white Birko-Flor update (an acrylic-polyamide mix

that lends a clean, leather-like finish) is sure to be a big hit amongst the fashion pack.

Feedback: White dominated the ready-to-wear runways for next spring and, according to Kahan, “Demand from retailers [for the

Arizona White] is off the charts.” Delivery Date: 2/1 Retail price: $89.95


what ’s selling sit & fits


HEN SCOTT SPROULL bought Hide & Sole in 1975, just three years after it opened, he made a smart business move that changed the course of the leather goods store. “I started buying Birkenstock,” he says. “We turned from custom orders to retail. There was no profit in making leather goods at the time.”

Since then, the 4,000-square-foot space located in the heart of downtown Missoula has become a comfort shoes destination for area residents and the approximately 15,000 students attending the nearby University of Montana. While carrying an assort-

ment of styles from category staples like Earth, Dansko, Clarks and Born, in addition to the Montana-based Oboz, Sproull works to bring new styles each season to appeal to a customer base that spans trendy college-aged young adults to baby boomers who demand comfort and style. It’s a broad demographic that Sproull and his staff study closely. “One-third of our cus-tomers will start asking questions, one-third will go straight to looking and one-third don’t want to be bothered at all.” —Brittany Leitner

What are your top-selling brands this season? We’ve had really warm weather and we’ve sold more sandals in September than we ever have. It’s definitely Birkenstock and Chaco sandals. In August, when students come back, the demand for them picks up.

Is there an “it” shoe for fall? The Keen Barika Mary Jane. It comes in brown and black, and we’ve already sold through them. We need more.

What’s the best new brand added to your mix in the past year? Bussola boots. They come at an amazing wholesale price, so we have a little more opportunity to make some margin.

What are your best selling accessories? From day one, probably belts. We carry all leather belts that are still in the $20 to $30 range. A lot of grooms-men come in looking for them, which is interesting. Same with wallets, we carry bison leather wallets from Osgoode Marley that are top sellers.

The good news is… There are still people that want to come into stores, try on shoes, be helped and not be overwhelmed with too much selection. The Internet has so much selection opportunities, but maybe too much for some people. Comfort stores like ours rely on the fact that customers want to come in, see something picked out for them and try it on.

The bad news is… This huge thing called the Internet. Where I might carry five colors of a certain shoe, an Internet dealer will have 20 colors of that shoe.

How would you describe the overall mood of your customers? They’re looking for an experience instead of just running in and grabbing some-thing. And I’m constantly surprised at how many people are in a good mood and are talkative. Our employees play off that and keep that rolling. I also track credit card sales, over the years when things are good credit card sales are up. This year they’re up.

What is the smartest business move that you’ve done recently? Joining the NSRA (National Shoe Retailers Association) board and talking to my peers about what’s happening in the market and what’s selling.

What are your goals for the rest of this year? To be more innovative. I want to communicate and market better with our customers. I also want to push the “think local and buy local” aspect.

Where do you see your business in 5 years? My son Shawn is taking over the business, so I’ll probably be retiring. We took part in NSRA’s NextGen Leadership Program to learn how to turn the business over to him little by little.

HIDE & SOLEMissoula, MT

Born Taos

FW_10_11_13_WhatsSelling_01.indd 34 10/16/13 4:15 PM

BENEFACTORS ($200,000 - $499,999)H.H. BROWN: BØRN, ISOLÁ, KORK-EASE, SOFFT, SOFTSPOTS

MARC FISHER FOOTWEAR: BELLE BY SIGERSON MORRISON, G BY GUESS, GUESS, ISAAC MIZRAHI, IVANKA TRUMP,

MARC FISHER, TOMMY HILFIGER

DOUBLE PLATINUM DONORS ($100,000 - $199,999)DANSKO • DECKERS OUTDOOR: UGG AUSTRALIA • JIMLAR, A DIVISION OF LF USA: CALVIN KLEIN, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS,

COACH FOOTWEAR, FRYE, MOUNTREK • MICHAEL BY MICHAEL KORS • NEW YORK TRANSIT: ANN MARINO, NEW YORK TRANSIT

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SHOE OF THE DAY DONORS ($20,000 - $49,999)ANDRÉ ASSOUS • BLOWFISH • CAPARROS CORPORATION • MARCHEZ VOUS • MUNRO AMERICAN • NINA • ROCKET DOG

SPRING STEP • SUMMER JASMINES • YELLOW BOX

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THIERRY RABOTIN USA INC. • TORY BURCH • UNITED NUDE • VC SIGNATURE • VINCE CAMUTO

JULIANNE HOUgH 2013 PSA Spokesperson

SPECIAL THANkS TO

THE JONES GROUP: 9&CO, ANNE KLEIN, BANDOLINO, EASY SPIRIT, ENZO ANGIOLINI, MOOTSIES TOOTSIES, NINE WEST

BROWN SHOE COMPANY: NATURALIZER, NAYA, DR. SCHOLL’S SHOES®, LIFESTRIDE, FERGIE FOOTWEAR, CARLOS BY CARLOS SANTANA, FRANCO SARTO, VIA SPIGA

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SPECIAL PINk BENEFACTORS ($500,000+)

Thank You!

20 years…the journey to a cure continues

One great cause, many great contributors!

FFANY Jodi Fisher Humanitarian Award to

President Bill Clinton

FF13_TY AD_FootwearPlus_003td.indd 1 10/15/13 11:59 AM FOP_OctNov2013.indd 17 10/17/13 5:45 PM


S P O T T I N GT R E N D

Color RunA lively spring palette kicks men’s sneakers out of neutral.Ecco

Ccilu

Sperry Top-Sider

Think!

Keen

Rockport

Alegria

Pajar

Børn

Ferracini 24h

fw_010.11_trendspotting_01.indd 36 10/16/13 4:10 PM

WINTER MARKET | JANUARY 22-25, 2014 | SALT LAKE CITY, UT

DEMO | JANUARY 21, 2014 | SOLITUDE MOUNTAIN RESORT, UT

From the mountains to the runways, Outdoor Retailer draws more than 200 active,

technical and lifestyle brands offering the styles your customers live in. Ariat to OluKai,

5.10 to K2—experience the business of footwear and the possibilities of outdoor.

Find out at www.outdoorretailer.com


modernart CUTOUT DETAILS EXPOSE A NEW WAVE OF CREATIVITY

38

DadaFashionCredits.indd 38 10/18/13 2:14 PM

modernCUTOUT DETAILS EXPOSE A NEW WAVE OF CREATIVITY

BCBG blouse worn under dress by Electric Feathers. Opposite, from left: Gabor flat, Easy Street short boot.


40

From left: wedge by Dr. Scholl’s, Cobb Hill oxford. Opposite: Spring Step lace-up sandals, Milly dress worn under Lindsey Thornburg sheath and bell sleeve top by Electric Feathers.

FINDING ART IN PRECISION

40

DadaFashionCredits.indd 40 10/21/13 11:56 AM

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From top: N

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worn under H Frediksson dress, h

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43 43


44

Taos oxford. Opposite, from left: gladiator sandal by Ecco, Aetrex cork sandal.

INTRICATE CUTOUTS ADD ELEMENTS OF STYLE

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Clockwise from

top: Dansko clog,

Adam Tucker Me Too

peep-toe shoetie,

sandal by Birkenstock,

Naot wedge.

Opposite: Rachel

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Dennis & Lynne ComeauD E S I G N E R C H AT

YOU COULD CALL Dennis Comeau and his wife, Lynne, masters of brand reincarnation. In 2006, it was the heritage sandal company, Bernardo, which had been dormant for 10 years. The couple updated and reintroduced its iconic ’70s glam sandals to a new generation of luxury jetsetters. And now their eyes are set on the Swinging ’60s with the reincarnation of Golo, the brand that put the go-go boot on the map.

Dennis notes the timing couldn’t be better—or more fortuitous. “We initially wanted to hold off on the launch to work out some details, but we saw the mod trend happening so we decided to move forward. It was luck,” he explains.

As collectors of vintage Vogue, Mademoiselle and Harper’s Bazaar magazines, the Comeaus often noticed Golo caption credits and became intrigued, buying the rights to the label earlier this year. Established in 1915, Golo was originally a slippers manufacturer but struck gold in the ’60s with its avant-garde boots. “The company really went after current trends and hired some talented designers,” Comeau says, adding it was one of the first companies to hire African-American designers. Of course, when Barbra Streisand was featured in a pair of Golo go-go boots in a 1965 Vogue spread, it quickly became a must-have amongst trendsetters.

But, like a lot of fashion brands, trends come and go, and Golo failed to adapt and became a no-go in the ’80s. Now, nearly 30 years later, and amid a mod revival (think black-and-white combinations, block heels and holographic materials), the Comeaus believe Golo is primed for a robust rebirth. The Spring ’14 collection is 40 percent archive and 60 percent new styles. It ranges from the original go-go boot (affectionately re-coined “Babs”), laser cut

sandals and Baby Janes, to fresher takes on gladiator sandals with knee-grazing silhouettes and exaggerated beaded embellishments. Metallic washed suede, holograms in silver and gold, and black, red and white patent leathers are prevalently featured. Retail prices range from $45 to $595.

The target consumer, Comeau describes, is a woman who has her own sense of style but with an urban, hip look. “She’s not shopping for $99 sandals or $1,000 sandals. She wants the in-between, but is still driven by styles that look cool.”

Just as it was in the ’60s, Golo is being positioned for small ready-to-wear boutiques and shoe salons that sell better price points. “It’s not a line for the masses, but it never was,” Comeau confirms. The footwear veteran adds that the world has changed: “The world is much smaller today, but it’s a bigger melting pot. That’s why our strategy is to go global from the start.” It entails a methodical approach to distribution, targeting key accounts in the U.S., Europe and Asia. “We’re not in a rush,” Comeau says. —Angela Velasquez

What trend do you hope to never see again? I hate the ’80s and I am so sick of studs. I wish they would just go away. I can’t believe that trend has lasted this long.

Which shoes in your closet are currently getting the most wear? I make my own shoes in a little factory in Italy, but a lot of the time I’m wearing John Varvatos Converse All-Stars. I have too many pairs to count.

What do you love the most about your job? I love the pressure. I work best against the clock—that pressure to get the trends, silhouettes and colors right as well as making sure the shoes fit properly and comfortably.

If you could change one thing about the footwear industry, what would it be? I want to see retailers give more support to newer labels. Footwear is not like clothes—you can’t stitch the items yourself. It is very cost prohibitive. As such, designers often don’t have the funds to continue past one collection because buyers didn’t give them enough attention. •

EDITOR’S PICKS

Go WestWestern silos and details add an Americana kick to summer festival boots.

Koolaburra

Rieker

Restricted

Cushe

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they were implementing additional security precautions as a result of the events at Westgate Mall. Some of these changes include bringing off-duty police officers into the mall, putting more non-uniformed security officers into uniform, and more closely coordinating with local police departments.

Dan Jasper, a spokesperson for Mall of America in Bloomington, MN, a sprawling complex that boasts more than 400 stores and 40 million visitors annually, says, “Some [security precautions] may be noticeable to guests and others won’t be.” He adds, “We will continue to follow the situation, along with law enforcement, and will remain vigilant as we always do in similar situations. The safety and security of our guests, employees and tenants re-mains our top priority.”

A spokesperson for Freehold Raceway Mall in New Jersey declined to re-veal specifics in order to preserve the effectiveness of its security measures, but did say that the mall had previ-ously installed license plate readers over parking entrances and exits in an effort to deter terrorism. Meanwhile Bryan Mueller, director of retail at Ohio’s Lucky Shoes, which has two lo-cations at strip malls and another in a shopping mall, says he’s been told the centers are ramping up their under-cover security. “This allows them to keep a silent eye on actions unfolding in the mall,” he says.

Be PreparedThere are several steps that could be taken to better equip shopping malls, or any commercial location, for emer-gency situations, whether terrorist at-tack or natural disasters. The prima-ry challenge is to maintain a sense of openness while simultaneously em-ploying a high level of security, such as surveillance cameras, guards and adequate lighting. Nesbitt recommends exhausting the least expensive solu-tions first in order to get the most productivity out of more expensive rem-edies like surveillance systems. “Security is a very situational discipline, which means one size does not fit all,” he explains, noting that a store that’s located in a high crime area will obviously have greater security issues than one that’s in a pristine neighborhood. “If I were to take two strip malls across the street from one another, and one has garbage rolling around the parking lot, cracked store windows, burned out lights, and across the street there’s a well-lit mall with neatly trimmed shrubbery, which mall is more likely to be targeted? That’s right: The unkempt one, because it looks like nobody cares. It sends a message of who’s paying attention and who’s not.” A concept Nesbitt champions is CPTED, or Crime Prevention Through Environmental Design. CPTED theories are based on four principles: natural access con-trol, natural surveillance, territoriality and maintenance. Securing the over-all design of the property, particularly near primary access points, is crucial.

Nesbitt also advises that security is a team sport, and that mall securi-ty directors should involve as many people as possible. “A security officer every 10 feet is very expensive, and that expense will pass on to the tenants in their leases,” he says. “But what people aren’t taking into consideration is getting the tenants and their employees involved and teaching them how to be observant.” He points to mall janitors as an example. “They are re-sponsible for suspicious areas of the mall. Who’s going to notice if some-

thing doesn’t look right more than them?”Kavanagh recommends putting more security officers in non-uniform.

“Blending them in in plain clothes would make it much more difficult to spot a routine and that gives security a leg up as far as watching people and not standing out. It’s effective,” he says.

Dave Astobiza, co-owner of Northern California’s 12-store Sole Desire chain, who closed his two shopping mall locations recently because he felt like the malls were becoming “a hangout” and, therefore, unsafe, would have preferred a more visible security presence. “The security was never strong in our malls and many of our employees never felt safe, especially with the long hours,” he says. “If people saw much more security, in general, maybe they would think twice.”

One way to possibly make security more visible is to speak to local po-lice about the possibility of moving a substation onto the premises. A va-cant store might look better as a pop-up police station. But how much se-curity is too much? When the ICSC surveyed mall shoppers about their views on walking through security lines with metal detectors and other security machines, the results were not surpris-ing. “Consumers want to go about their day unimpeded. Shoppers recognize a uniform in a crowd and are comfort-able with that,” Kavanagh offers. “What they’re less comfortable with is if you have to resort to people going through metal detectors.”

Likewise, blanketing a shopping mall in surveillance cameras can create their share of problems. While it increases the chances of capturing a criminal on video (it took the FBI only three days to release images of last summer’s Boston Marathon bombers taken by a depart-

ment store’s cameras), it generates an overwhelming amount of film to sift through. Moreover, according to the Surveillance Studies Center at Queen’s University in Ontario, urban surveillance systems have not been proven to deter criminals.

Ask the ExpertsNot exactly sure how to keep your store safe? Then ask the experts. State and federal law enforcement do make resources available to private businesses to identify how they might be vulnerable and develop procedures to improve security. For example, the Pennsylvania State Police offers businesses free inspections by its Risk and Vulnerability Assessment Team. The team will visit the site, identify potential security problems and provide a confiden-tial report with recommendations on improvements. Kavanagh also recom-mends conducting evacuation drills at least once a year in conjunction with local police and fire departments.

Measures like these would not only help prepare malls against attacks, but the risk assessments, emergency plans and drills could also alleviate the impact of random acts of violence, fires and natural disasters. As Kavanagh advises, it’s better to be safe than sorry. “Very simply, shoppers won’t shop where they don’t feel safe,” he says. “There are so many alternatives today, whether it’s another store, the Internet or catalogs. It dosn’t make sense to not increase security.” •

Red Alert“Retailers need to

realize that they can be instrumental in

preventing something like what happened

in Nairobi. ” —Malachy Kavanagh, spokesperson, ICSC

continued from page 10

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50 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 201350 footwearplusmagazine.com •

UPCL OSE COMFORT

FED UP WITH the pain and awkward limp that comes with wearing poor quality footwear, Allison Gettings decided to put her frustration to good use and last August launched Alli Marie.

Make no mistake: Gettings didn’t just wake up one morning and decide to become a shoemaker. As a fourth generation member of the family that owns Red Wing Shoes (her dad is CEO Bill Sweasy) she knows a thing or two about the business and has tried her hand at everything from product development to visual merchandising to customer experience management at the 108-year-old company. Gettings decided to combine her extensive industry experience and American footwear heritage with another country rich in shoemaking history, namely Portugal. The line is made in a family-owned factory located in the heart of the country where, Gettings notes, employees are paid fair and treated well. Each pair of Alli Marie shoes feature a custom footbed with Poron Performance Cushioning Foam, providing shock absorption, high resiliency and the ability to dissipate pressure for all-day comfort. Added features include

soft leathers that are sourced in the finest Portuguese and Italian tanneries and leather soles that have rubber inserts for traction. Gettings and her design team also sculpted the shapes of the shoes so that there is ample room for each toe and joint while maintaining a svelte and feminine aesthetic. Wholesale prices range from $135 to $205.

Alli Marie made its debut this fall with a tight collection of leather flats, boots and booties. Moving into spring, the line will expand to include cutout oxfords, needlepoint loafers and stacked heel sandals. “I wanted to expand on the more fun elements of footwear,” Gettings offers. “We have more design details that really pop, like rose embroidery on some shoes, brighter colors and styles that are a little more fun and flirty.”

Even with her dad a mere phone call away, Gettings has been determined to make it on her own. And despite the bumps in the road that come with any start-up, she is succeeding. “Launching a line and a new business is hard,” she admits, chalking up the difficulties to becoming learning experiences. “But it’s been my own reactions to the hiccups that really surprised me.” —Lyndsay McGregor

A fourth generation member of Red Wing Shoes strikes out on her own with Alli Marie.

Learning to Fly

WHAT DO YOU get when you cross the modern comfort of Rockport, Adidas sports technology and an Italian design studio? For starters, a very optimistic Bob Mullaney, president of the brand’s U.S. sales and operations. Since the Adidas-owned subsidiary’s latest lightweight women’s comfort innovation, dubbed Total Motion, hit store shelves in September, sales have surpassed expectations. “It emboldens us to continue on in women’s as is and to also expand into newer categories so we can expand the consumer’s wearing occasion,” he says, adding, “We’re spending a lot of time on the selling floor. We want feedback. We want the good and the bad. We’re not hearing too much bad right now [laughs], but there’s always room for improvement.”

For spring that means doubling the women’s offering from six styles to 12, spanning sandals and pumps to driving mocs and sneakers, with select silhouettes made in Italy at Rockport’s newly established design atelier. Whereas the fall collection featured just five color ways, next season’s assortment comes in 19, including fuchsia, rose, melon and princess blue, which Mullaney believes will attract the fashion-seeking metropolitan. Then, he is confident, the comfort benefits of Total Motion technology will reel her in. Specifically, that involves an ultra-thin plate in the outsole that provides lightweight stability and controlled flexibility and Adiprene cushioning that offers all-day comfort.

“A lot of people have a great respect for our brand,” Mullaney says, noting that the female customer, in particular, is demanding a lot more from Rockport these days. The same goes for its retail partners, who have made the brand a cornerstone of their stores for decades and, Mullaney says, are pleased to see it become a more meaningful player in the women’s business. “It’s the Holy Grail, bringing style and modern comfort together,” Mullaney states. “That’s a thing that a lot of brands try to chase, and buyers are really excited because they see Rockport is delivering on it.” —L.M.

Rockport aims to please by upping its fashion quotient.

Women Rock

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shiny finishes for dressy occasions to suede for more casual looks. It’s a style that can be dressed up and down, and that versatility is an attractive feature right now with consumers.

In a retail landscape not as dominated by Ugg possibly, how might that impact a brand like Taos?For years it was hard to grab retailers’ open-to-buy. And even though I felt bad about that, I also felt good for retailers because it meant that they were basically OK. It was a slam dunk: They knew that 25 percent of their buy was going to be fine, because they were going to sell it all and at full price. That represented a huge amount of dollars, but now it has opened up opportunities for us in terms of gaining more of that open-to-buy share. Retailers are recognizing that they have to explore different looks, and if one works, then they have to try and own that a bit more. For companies like Taos, that’s a very positive trend.

Following such a slam dunk era, might there also be a bit of a panic trying to decide what might fill the void?I would definitely be concerned. But there are cycles and you just have to be prepared. The good retailers are always trying new things. Some work and some don’t. Retailers have to trust that they know their consumer better than anyone and be willing to give a brand that they haven’t carried before a try to see what potential it might have. And it should be because the retailer believes in the actual product, not because of any deal that might be in the offering. The shoes should make sense for their customer base. And if they don’t work, then that’s OK because at least they are still learning and trying. It’s when they become stagnant in their selection and ignore the shifts in cycles that often leads to trouble.

Everything seems to move faster today. Do you think there could be another Ugg-like fashion phenomenon?Ugg was a massive look, and we saw it from many other labels and sold at pretty much every tier. It won’t go to zero and another look will come around. But who knows when? In the meantime, it’s healthy for retailers to have to carry new and fresh merchandise. Along those lines, the Ugg phenomenon became a commodity. It was one of the easiest items to buy online because they all fit basically the same and the customer had become very familiar with the purchase. This opens up the playing field for independent and specialty retailers to be prepared for whatever the next big thing might be. And it might be two or three things to make up for that business.

Where do you do you see Taos in three years?Continuing to grow, getting into some new categories and offering different price points for a range of consumers. Overall, to be a bigger company with a stronger team. I just want to be really proud of our product, where the goal is always to get better and better at it. But the size is relative. However the consumer who embraces us will dictate our size. If we continue to make great product and ship consistently on time and help our retailers as best we can, then we will continue to experience growth.

Might Taos expand into additional categories—like men’s, for example?We could do men’s or kids’ in a heartbeat. But I just think that there’s so much more room to grow in women’s before we take on other categories. For example, our fall collection is extremely strong—maybe as strong as our sandal business, right now. We probably have three categories that are just killing it this season. Through trial and error we just got better with that type of product. And people talk: Everyone knows everything in a minute- and-a-half today. Retailers are now giving us real estate year-round, which works to their advantage because they really don’t want to have to move us out one season and then have to bring us back.

Could you envision selling Taos to a conglomerate down the road?You never say never, but it’s certainly not what we are thinking about doing right now. We must savor this time, because it’s a unique period in any brand’s life.

What do you love most about your job?I play a different role than I have in the past but the great thing about my job is I get to do a little bit of everything—from development to working with the sales team to operations to marketing. The other aspect that I love is being able to step back and watch it all work. One of the proudest aspects is watching employees who are so passionate about Taos and letting them do their thing. Finally, what I love most about this business are reorders. That means, after all that effort and hard work, something worked.

How do you feel when you see someone wearing a pair of Taos shoes?It’s the best feeling in the world. It’s hard to even verbalize. It’s a sense of accomplishment. Certainly, if our business does well, we wind up with financial rewards. But seeing a person in our shoes has nothing to do with that, really. It’s a case of putting a product into the marketplace that somebody loved enough to actually spend their money on. That’s just an unbelievable feeling. •

continued from page 17

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Westlake OH 4414511. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Hold-ers Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None. 12. Publication Name: Footwear Plus. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2013. 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation. Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/Actual No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date:a. Total No. Copies: 18,623/17,445b. Legitimate paid and/or requested distribution:(1) Paid/ Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions: 9,121/8,952(2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions:0/0(3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, and counter sales:0/0(4) Requested copies distributed by other USPS mail classes:0/0c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation:. 9,121/8,952d. Nonrequested distribution:

(1). Outside county nonrequested copies:.5,083/5,480(2) In County nonrequested copies:. 0/0(3) Nonrequested copies distributed through other USPS mail classes:0/0(4). Nonrequested copies distributed outside the mail: 6,168/6,224e. Total nonrequested distribution: 6,168/6,224f. Total Distribution: 15,289/15,176g. Copies not distributed:3,334/2,269h. Total:18,623/17,445i: Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 60%/59%16. This Statement of Ownership will be printed in the Oct./Nov. 2013 issue of this publication.17. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions and/or clivil sanctions. Caroline Diaco, Publisher

O&A

FW_10_11_13_QA_01.indd 51 10/17/13 1:14 PM


THE DIGITAL POSTER that hit the Twitterverse on October 3 was simple: A large pink sneaker with a cut-out shape of Texas hovered over the words, “Time to Run.” Plenty of folks—even those living outside the Lone Star State—knew who the ad referred to: Texas Senator Wendy Davis, who made national headlines months before following her 11-hour filibuster that temporarily prevented state Republicans from passing a restrictive abortion bill, and who is now running for governor. Davis became famous overnight, and so did the sneakers she sported during the stand-up speaking marathon: the Mizuno Wave Rider 16, in eye-catching pink and green.

Sales have since skyrocketed. Mizuno reports web traffic nearly doubled compared to the same time the week before, and the Wave Rider 16 continues to be its highest viewed page. The sneaker ranked as Amazon’s top-selling shoe in June and even lingers on its top 100 list as of press time, with the customer reviews since turning into a feisty political forum.

One might think all the free publicity and increase in sales would be welcomed by Mizuno. Well, that may be up for debate as the brand has recycled the same nonpartisan statement to news outlets in the wake of the Davis-generated fashion endorsement: “We do appreciate Ms. Davis’ choice in athletic footwear; however, do not maintain a corporate position related to the topic in discussion.”

Some hot-button issues are just that—deemed too hot and controversial to directly want to tie to a brand. Case in point, Bruno Magli never sought the instant notoriety–and increase in sales that followed—when crime scene reports indicated the killer of Nicole Brown-Simpson and Ronald Goldman was wearing a pair of its shoes, in size 12. Granted, it’s not the same type of affiliation, but for many it’s a highly

controversial subject and, therefore, sometimes better left alone.

In the case of Davis, her joggers appear to have become a write-in candidate, whether Mizuno likes it or not. The shoes have provided too much marketing mileage for Davis, who had previously been known for clicking through the marble halls of the Texas Capitol on sky-high heels, to abandon the affiliation. Davis was featured on the cover of Texas Monthly’s August issue wearing her trademark high heels with her running mate Mizunos dangling beside her by the laces. “There are some pretty stylish women in the Texas Legislature, on both the Republican and Democratic sides,” says Erica Grieder, senior editor at Texas Monthly who covers Senate news for the magazine. “Senator Davis is definitely a leader in that regard.”

But, Grieder astutely points out, the fact that Davis elected to wear running shoes the day of the filibuster (rules state that the person filibustering is not allowed to sit, eat, drink or use the restroom for the duration of their speech) sent a clear message that she meant business. “The day before she was wearing flats and people took notice of that, too,” she says. “There was a chance the bill would come up the day before it actually did.”

As often in politics, timing is everything. A day earlier and the Twitterverse might have begun chirping about the flats Davis wore. Instead, it’s Davis and Mizuno’s Wave Rider 16s that have catapulted into the national spotlight. It looks like she made the right choice as the candidate has plenty of ground to gain on the campaign fundraising circuit. Her political war chest stood at about $1 million as of mid-October while Republican opponent, Attorney General Greg Abbott, has $21 million.

LAST WORD

THE POLITICS OF FASHION

Running for OfficeA Mizuno running shoe that made headlines during a Texas Senate filibuster becomes a political football in the state’s gubernatorial race. By Brittany Leitner

From top: Campaign poster designed by Joe Deshotel; Mizuno’s Wave Rider 16; Texas Senator Wendy Davis during her 11-hour filibuster at the state’s capitol.

FW_10_11_13_Last_Word_01.indd 52 10/16/13 3:57 PM

Fashion Inspires Us

Value Drives Us

rialto A Division of White Mountain

www.rialtoshoes.com


footwear plus | october/november 2013

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