fm 4 textile fibers and finishes rw repaired
TRANSCRIPT
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Textile Fabrics andFinishes
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Objectives:
Identify most common fabric constructions
Describe main fabric finishing procedures
Recognize importance of quality andperformance standards
Summarize aspects of the textile industry
Explain how fabrics are sold down thechain
Cite textile industry trade information
Tell about future predictions for textiles
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Fabric Design and
Construction Two forms of design
Structural Design
Building in textureor interest duringmanufacturing process
Weaving and knittingmost common
Applied Design Adding color, pattern,
or other features to thestructural design
Printing on fabric
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Fabric Construction
Methods
Weaving
Plain: crosshatchpattern
Twill: diagonal
wale Satin: floating
yarns
Knitting
Weft
Warp
Nonwoven
Fused
Felted
Films
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Fabric Terms
Grain directionyarns run in thefabric
Lengthwise - warp Crosswise - weft
Diagonal - bias
Selvage Finished weft
edge of fabric
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
BIAS
WARP
WEFT
CUT EDGE
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Variations of Weaves
Stripes
Checks
Plaids Jacquard
Pile fabrics
Terry cloth Corduroy
Velvet
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Knitting
Looping yarn together
Made using one yarn Built-in stretch
Wrinkle resistant Does not ravel like
woven material, but mayrun
Weft (filling) stretchesin both directions
Warp stretches onedirection; run-proof
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Nonwoven Fabrics
Compact web offibers (not yarns)
constructed using Moisture
Heat
Chemicals
Friction
Pressure
No grain
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Other Construction Methods
Laces and Nets
Made by knotting
Decorative trim
Braids Decorative trims
Bonded fabrics
Fusible web Interfacing and hem tape
Quilted fabrics
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Fabric Finishing
Converters
Mills that changegreige goods into
finished fabrics Applying colors,
designs, or surfacetreatments
Bleaching
Dyeing
Printing
Finishes
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Dyeing
Fiber Adding color to fibers
before spinning intoyarns
Yarn Placing yarns in dye bath
before making into fabric
Piece
Fabrics dyed afterweaving or knitting
Garment
Dyed after construction
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Printing Adding color, pattern, ordesign to surface offabric
Overall prints
Same across fabric
Directional prints
Specific direction topattern
Plaids Even - same in warp
and weft
Uneven - different in
warp or weft
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Printing
Methods Roller
Applies color
design by roller
Screen
Similar to stenciling
Rotary Screen Applies color
design by cylinder-shaped nylonscreens
Heat Transfer
Design on printedpaper transferred tofabric by heat andpressure
Digital
Computer methoduses ink-jet printing
Flocking
Fibers attached by
patterned glue
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Fabric Finishes
Mechanical finishes affectsize and appearance By heat, moisture,
stretching, singeing
Example: preshrinking Chemical finishes affect
performance Permanent press
Waterproof Water repellent
Flame resistant
Antistatic
Stain and soil resistant
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Standards
Quality
Rate textiles
according tolevels of defects
Performance
Rate textiles forspecific end-usesuitability
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The Textile
Industry Specialized companies
perform stages of thetextile segment of thechain
Technology necessary CAD/CAM
Fashion
Tracking designs,trends, forecasts
Marketing
Planning, pricing,
promoting, distributing
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Selling Finished Fabrics
Staple fabrics Sold each year with
little or no change in
construction Novelty fabrics
Fashion fabrics thatchange with styletrends
Overruns When a mill makes
more fabric than wasordered by customers
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Trade Information
American TextileManufacturers Institute, Inc.(ATMI)
Industry-wide marketing,government relations,trade policies
American Printed FabricsCouncil, Inc. (APFC)
Printing achievements American Association of
Textile Chemists andColorists (AATCC)
Wet processing aspects
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Future of Textiles
Continued U.S. innovation Stay internationally
competitive
Update plants
Continued automation
Flexibility and versatilityfor shorter productionruns of different fabrics
Increased knit production
Textile firms need moresophisticated marketing
techniques
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Do You Know . . .
A finishing term thatends in proof means
complete protection
(as in waterproof). Hand is the term used
for textiles that refersto the way fabrics feel
to the touch. Hand mayapply to drape,softness, firmness,crispness, or elasticity.