FLOORINGGUIDE

August 2003(43) Xi3

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INTRODUCTION

This booklet is designed to introduce you to the wide range of flooring materials available from WESTCO®/FLOORMAKER™ and provide informationon preparation, fixing and maintenance.This guide is generalised, it is thereforeessential that you read the specific onpack instructions for both the materialand accessories, such as adhesive, which you intend to use. To achieve the best results buy only WESTCO®/FLOORMAKER™ fixing accessories asthese have been designed to complementWESTCO®/FLOORMAKER™floorcoverings and tested to ensurecompatibility. We hope that this booklet isinformative and useful as a referenceguide.

OVERVIEW FLOORING AVAILABLEFROM WESTCO

FLOATING FLOORSA floating floor is laid by joining thetongue and grooves of the producttogether using either glue or gluefreemethods. The floor does not have to beglued to the sub-floor – this makesinstallation quick and clean.The two main types of ‘Floating Floor’ areLAMINATE and REAL WOOD Plank Floor.

3 main types of Floating Floor:-

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LAMINATE FLOORINGLAMINATE FLOORING is resistant toimpact, stiletto heels, cigarettes andsolvents, yet never needs polishing.LAMINATE FLOORING has the beauty ofnatural products without theirdisadvantages. It is easy to keep cleanand is therefore ideal for most locations.The flooring is hygienic, non-allergenicand colour fast, even when installed inrooms exposed to the sun. No sanding,staining, varnishing, polishing orrefinishing is required.LAMINATE FLOORING consists of fourcomponents: the hard wearing top layer ofspecially impregnated film, a designpaper,high density fibreboard (HDF) coreor similar and a bottom layer of backinglaminate.LAMINATE FLOORING is between 6 and12mm thick, which usually means doorlevels need not be raised which makesLAMINATE FLOORING ideal forrefurbishment projects.

REAL WOOD PLANK FLOORINGThese floors give you the beauty of atraditional parquet floor but are designedto lay quickly and cleanly. Each board istongue and grooved to fit snugly andconveniently together, giving theimpression, once laid, of an original woodblock or strip floor.REAL WOOD FLOORING comes in twobasic types:- solid and veneered.SOLID REAL WOOD FLOORING is madefrom 100% of the species used.VENEERED FLOORING uses hardwoodveneers mounted on a core of plywood,MDF or softwood.All Woodfloors are ready sealed or oiledand require no further treatment.

CORE:High density fibreboard orparticleboard

BACKING:Coated toensuredimensional stability

OVERLAY:(PROTECTIVE COATING):The special resincoating produces ahighly wear-resistantsurface finish

DECORATIVE LAMINATE:Realistic reproductionresistant to light

CORE MATERIAL (Substrate):Can be:-Particle board (chipboard)M.D.F. (Medium Density Fibreboard, less than850k/m3 density)H.D.F. (High Density Fibreboard, equal or morethan 850kg/m3)Plywood - Various numbers of layers andthicknessSoftwood 2 layers at right angles

BACKING:To balancefront veneer,irrelevantif ply core

SURFACE FINISH:Coats of acrylic seal, U.V. cured or oiledfinish

REAL WOOD VENEER:Various thicknesses, typically0.6mm to 4.0mm

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FLOORS BONDED DIRECTLY TOTHE SUBFLOOR

CORKCork, the bark of the Cork Oak tree, is asustainable material. It is removed fromthe tree every 9 years and regrowsnaturally. Corks natural cellularconstruction gives it resilience andstrength in service.

SOLID WOOD MOSAIC PARQUETThis is formed from sets of closelygrouped timber fingers arranged in a“basket weave” pattern and is universallyfitted in both domestic and commerciallocations (with the exception ofbathrooms). The relatively small sizepanels and consequent ease of handlinghas made mosaic parquet particularlypopular in the DIY sector.

CORK & MOSAIC OPTIONAL FINISHESBoth cork and mosaic parquet come in arange of finishes.Fine Sanded, ready for sealing.Ready Sealed to save time.Self adhesive ideal for DIY as the factoryapplied adhesive and seal saves time andeffort. (Cork only).

VINYL FLOOR TILES1. Homogeneous tiles are produced froma solid compressed sheet, made up ofPVC and various quantities of fillers,which is then processed into tiles.A small amount of contrasting colouredchips are added at the final stage to createa slight marbling effect on the surface.Alternatively, the sheet can be constructedusing PVC chips of different colours sothat the mottled effect you see on thesurface will generally go through the tile.2. Printed tiles are manufactured bylaminating a plain PVC backing to a clearwear layer. The pattern is printed on theunderside of the clear wear layer so that

the pattern itself is fully protected. Thismethod allows the use of differenttextures, such as slate effect, beatencopper, etc. See also “EMBOSSED”.3. Embossed or textured tiles aremanufactured by the same method asPRINTED tiles. Afterwards they gothrough a special press that compressescertain features of the pattern – such asthe grout lines on a ceramic-look tile orthe brick outline on a parquet-effectpattern – to give a distinctive “natural”look to the surface.4. Cushion vinyl tiles utilise a pre-formedsheet of specifically formulated vinyl whichis passed through a number of printingcylinders, each one responsible for onecolour within a pattern. This is followed bythe application of a clear wear layer. Theprinted sheet is then subjected to heatwhich makes it expand to its “cushion”form. By using chemicals mixed in withselected colours this “cushion” process canbe stopped, to provide an embossing effectin the exact areas where the selectedcolours are printed. This enables designsand textures to be produced without theneed for mechanical pressings.All our PVC tiles can be used in any area of the house, including kitchens andbathrooms, and are very easy to keep clean.

PURCHASING YOUR FLOORING

IMPORTANT – Always read all theinstructions on all labels on all theproducts you are going to use before youstart laying the floor.

SUITABILITYConservatories can also provide difficultconditions for flooring due to intensesunlight, high temperature and humidity.This can lead to colour bleaching inconcentrated sunlight or sometimes thesoftening of the adhesive due to unusuallyhigh but sustained temperatures.

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ESTIMATINGMeasure the width of the room (into thealcoves and door threshold) and multiplyby the length to find the MAIN AREA. Add

to or subtract from the main area the areaof any bay window or chimney breast.Each pack of flooring states the area whichit will cover.It often helps to draw the room on a pieceof graph paper.Divide area of room by area of pack – andround up to the nearest whole number.Add 5%. This is the number of packs tobuy.

You may be unfamiliar with the metricsystem but most flooring is sold in squaremetres. If you measure in metres and workconsistently in metres it should present noproblems.

BATCH NUMBERSShould the instructions request it, ensurepacks have the same batch number.

PURCHASING ACCESSORIES

Westco have developed a range ofaccessories specifically for our flooring.ADHESIVE: The correct type of adhesivemust be used, which will depend on theflooring chosen. Westco Cork Tile Adhesive. For sandedand sealed cork.Westco Mosaic Parquet Adhesive. For allsanded and sealed mosaic parquet, felt back,paper back, mesh back and unbacked.Westco Plank Adhesive. For all floatingflooring including real wood veneer andglued laminate.

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Floating Floor Accessories

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SEALS. These must be used on finesanded products (at least 3 coats for asatisfactory finish) or as additionalprotection on ready sealed products,choose from gloss or satin.Westco Timber & Cork Polyurethane Seal,which enhances the colour and grain ofthe wood.Westco Underlay will be needed for allfloating floors.White foam Underlay orFibreboard Underlay should be used inconjunction with Westco Vapour barrier onground floors to prevent moisture ingress Westco High Performance Underlaycombines the underlay with a moistureresistant barrier in a single product therebysaving time.Westco Cork Expansion Strip must beused to fill expansion gaps around mosaicand all plank floors.Westco Threshold Strips marry the newfloor to the existing. Use a Tbar forlaminate to laminate and a Reducer forlaminate to vinyl/ceramic. Scotia should beused to cover the expansion gaps.Westco Felt Pads protect your newfloorcovering from point loading.TOOLS – You should check what you need,which will include all or some of thefollowing:· Tape measure· Metal rule or straightedge· Profile template (or card and scissors)· String & chalk· Pencil· Trimming knife· Cutting board· Plank laying kit (for floating floors)· Fine toothed saw· Damp cloth

SUB FLOOR PREPARATION

A successful flooring project is alwaysdependant on the quality of the subfloor.

These tips are relevant to all subfloors.

All floors must be dry, clean, flat andsound.

DRY – Moisture in floors is the biggestenemy of all types of floorcoverings.Ground floors must incorporate an effectivedamp proof membrane. Dryness shouldnever be taken for granted – what seemsto be dry on the surface could still bedamp underneath.

Concrete – As a general rule new concretefloors dry out at the rate of one inch(25mm) of thickness per month, twoinches will take 2 months but from thenon it takes longer; 3 inches could take 4months, 4 inches could take 5 to 6months. These times are based on theroom being well ventilated so that themoisture coming out of the floor cancirculate into the air. Cold or wet weatherprolongs the drying period. Keeping doorsand windows tightly closed and turning upthe heating does not work! Blotting paperthat is already wet will not be able toabsorb much more water; similarly, airthat is already full of moisture will beunable to absorb further moisture – hencethe need for ventilation to help move themoisture laden air out of the room toenable dry air to take its place.Technically moisture in the subfloor can bemeasured as follows:

Tested with a Hygrometer, relativehumidity must not be higher than 75%.Tested with a Protimeter Concrete Master,the degree of moisture must not exceed5.5%. An effective Damp Proof Membraneis essential. Materials and methods fordamp-proofing solid floors, are describedin British Standard 8102.

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Suspended timber ground floors rely onventilation provided by grills or airbricks tokeep them dry. It is essential that theseare not blocked as dampness will result.

CLEAN – There should be no surface dust,grit or sand, no oil or floor paints. Whenexisting floorcoverings are taken up all oldadhesive must be cleaned off. Use a hotair gun to soften the adhesive, and removeusing a wide bladed paint scraper.

FLAT – There should be no discerniblebumps, cracks or creases. Quarry orceramic tiled floors are unsuitable unlessthey are covered with a suitable floorlevelling compound.

Timber boards must be covered withflooring grade hardboard or plywood. Theboards to be overlaid must be secured andlevelled, in particular ridges should beplaned and damaged boards replaced.

Punch pins or fixings below the surface ofthe overlay boards. Timber treated withwood preservatives is not suitable as asub-floor, even if overlaid.Check on the flooring pack for specificinstructions regarding which side of thehardboard to use; typically smooth side forself adhesive products and rough side forproducts laid using adhesive.

SOUND – There should be no surface gritor sand. The surface should be hard, firmand should not crumble. Old floor levellingcompound should be tested to see if it isstill completely bonded to the floor. If indoubt remove old compound and replace.

PRIMED – If sticking tiles down onporous surfaces such as concrete, sandand cement screed, plywood, hardboardand chipboard should be primed using adilute solution of PVA as permanufacturers instructions for priming.This ensures that the adhesive can “grip”.

ASPHALT – Is an unsuitable subfloor forstick down products unless suitablepreparation is carried out. Roughen theasphalt surface using a wire brush to form a‘key’. Lay a suitable latex self levelling screed(approximately 3mm) following themanufacturer’s instructions. Prime when dry.

BITUMEN – Is an unsuitable subfloor.

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Fix at 4” centres

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LAYING A FLOATING FLOOR

(A rough guide - double check on packinstructions for key details)

PREPARE THE PLANKSAcclimatise the unopened packs in theroom where they are to be laid for at least72 hours. Immediately prior to laying, openall packs and shuffle to ensure a randommix of shades and texture. No attemptshould be made to exactly match planks asthis may produce an un-natural finish.When you open the packs, check that thetongues and grooves are free fromobstruction. Defective planks or plankswith unacceptable shade variations shouldnot be fixed, as once installed no creditscan be given.Normally lay the floor towards the mainsource of light. In narrow areas it is best tolay in the direction of the longest wall.

Lay a Vapour barrier. Lay Underlay useeither Foam (over concrete); Fibreboard(over timber) or High PerformanceUnderlay (over either). NB HighPerformance Underlay has an intergratedvapour barrier to save time.

Leave an expansion gap of 12.5mm at allskirtings and around other obstacles likehearths and pillars. The gap is establishedusing the spacers from the laying kit, laterit will be filled with cork to maintain it andhidden by scotia or new skirting. (Largerareas need to be broken down intosections and expansion joints made).

Take time to get your first 3 rows straight,this will make the rest of the job mucheasier later.If the wall is uneven use a compass andpencil to scribe the undulations onto theboards lengthwise and cut them to fit. Seebelow:

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Ensure the boards overlap by 300mm.

Use the block to protect the boards fromthe hammer.

Use the jemmy to fit boards around theperimetre.

Holes for pipes should be cut 10mm largerthan the pipes.

Now remove the spacers and replace withcork expansion strip.

Cover the gap with Scotia or new skirtingNB make sure the Scotia/skirting does nottrap the floor.Leave an expansion gap

Useful tips for laying HerringboneLaminate FlooringThe design of the herringbone is uniqueand whilst we strive for perfection in thepattern match we have to work within a + or – 2mm tolerance in the length ofdesign on each board. This basically meansthat whilst all the “staves” along the length

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of the board measure 55mm in width - the2 staves on the ends in a worse casescenario - may differ in width from 53mmto 57mm. To counter this and enable thepanels to be laid so the pattern matches - itis advisable to compensate for thesetolerances. The easiest way is to ensure thatwhere the short ends join - the total widthof the 2 staves on the ends of the boardswhen snapped together will be 110mm.

This is made easier before the product islaid, by opening the packs and measuringthe end stave of each panel then sortingthese into piles depending on the width ofthe staves. For example - a stavemeasuring 53mm on one end willmeasure 57mm at the other, therefore itwould be best to fit a stave measuring57mm next to the 53mm end and viceversa to compensate for any tolerancedeviation.

CLIP SYSTEMWESTCO also have a gluefree clip systemfor laying 15mm or 22mm Solid WoodFlooring. Full instructions are included ineach pack. All principles remain as forFloating Floors but the boards are linkedby metal clips underneath to allow thesolid wood to ‘move’ independently.

LAYING A STICK DOWN FLOOR

PREPARATIONGeneral rules for products such as cork,solid wood mosaic parquet and vinyl – butnot plank or laminate flooring.Refer to the previous section on SubfloorPreparation. Additionally remove all existingfloorcoverings - you must be sticking thefloor directly to Concrete/Plywood/Chipboard/Hardboard or Screed. Thesemust be prepared as previously directed.

ACCLIMATISEThe acclimatisation recommendations andperiod varies according to the material –check on the pack for details. It isimportant that the acclimatisation takesplace in the conditions and temperaturesthat will prevail when fixed.

CHECKCork & Solid Wood Mosaic Parquet tilesshould be shuffled to achieve an evendistribution of the natural shade variations.Vinyl tiles should be of all the same batchnumber

PLANNING THE FLOOR

Using string and chalk mark guide linesfrom centres of opposite walls. Lay rows oftiles in both directions from the centre,adjusting if necessary to give the mosteconomical and balanced cutting atborders. Avoid leaving small strips indoorways or high traffic areas.

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CUTTING

PART TILESTo fit part tiles, lay the tile to be cutexactly over the last full tile; place anotherfull tile against the wall and mark thecutting line where the tiles overlap.

SHAPED CUTSTo fit around pipes, door frames, etc.,make a cardboard pattern as a guide anduse this to draw an outline on the tile. Cutto shape and check that it fits beforefixing.Before peeling the backing paper orspreading adhesive check that the cut tilefits correctly. Part tiles should fit snugglyand should not be forced into place.

FIXING

Different products have different fixingmethods, read the instructions on packand if appropriate on the adhesivecontainer. Defective tiles and vinyl tiles

with shade variations should not be fixedas once installed no credits will be given.

DRY BACK PRODUCTSThese are products that require adhesiveto stick them. Only use the spreaderprovided with the adhesive. Spread onlysufficient adhesive to cover approximatelyone square metre.

Lay all full tiles, making sure that they arepressed firmly into the adhesive, especiallythe edges and corners. Do not putadhesive on floor areas that need part tilesuntil you have cut the part tiles to size,otherwise the adhesive may dry out beforeyou are ready to lay them.NOTE: Parquet mosaic tiles require anexpansion gap of 12.5mm (1/2”) at allskirtings or obstructions. This gap shouldlater be filled with cork expansion strip andcovered with a quadrant or Scotiamoulding fixed to the skirting.

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SELF ADHESIVEThese are products with the adhesivealready applied to the back of the tiles,with a release paper protecting theadhesive until you are ready to fix.

Peel the backing from a tile andCAREFULLY place it at your centre point.Check that it is correctly positioned andthen apply firm all-over pressure to achievecomplete contact. Lay all full tiles,ensuring a close fit but do not force tilestogether.WARNING – As the backing paper isslippery, dispose of it as soon as it hasbeen removed.

FINISHING

CORK TILES AND SOLID WOOD MOSAICPARQUET:Fine Sanded Bathroom or Natural TilesThese must be sealed.Before applying a seal, wait for theadhesive to dry, during which time youshould protect the floor from dirt, water,moisture and condensation. Brush the floorclean and remove all traces of excessadhesive and other marks.

Apply 3-4 coats of WESTCO Timber andCork Floor Seal. Choose Gloss or Satin.This process seals the tiles and the tilejoints against possible water and dirtpenetration.

Ready Sealed/Ready Finished/Heritage/Corkfast/TilefastRefer to the on pack instructions regardingthe necessity for and type of additionaltreatments needed.

NOTE: It is suggested that you shouldlightly sand dry seal between coats toprovide a key for the next coat.

WOOD PLANK.These have real wood veneers and areready sealed, however you should addadditional coats of seal if you cananticipate high traffic or possibilities ofstanding water (eg. kitchens).

LAMINATE FLOORING.These have a special wear layer thatrequires no more treatment.

VINYL TILES. These are ready finishedand require no more treatment.

MAINTENANCE

Use Doormats, one on the outside and oneinside the door, to avoid unnecessary wearcaused by grit etc. In contract situations use an efficient dustcontrol system corresponding to theanticipated traffic level. These mats shouldbe capable of removing and retaininggravel/grit etc. and moisture. It isimportant to ensure that the matting is of asufficient size so that several steps arerequired to be taken before reaching yourfloors.Always lift heavy furniture and householdappliances to prevent scratching andscoring.

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Use Westco Felt Pads or cups underfurniture legs.

PREVENTIVE CARE OF HARDFLOORING

CORK, SOLID WOOD MOSAIC PARQUETAND REAL WOOD VENEERIn normal domestic use the floor should beswept regularly with a soft broom orvacuumed and occasionally wiped usingeither a mop or cloth well wrung out inwarm water. USE AS LITTLE WATER ASPOSSIBLE. Any spillages should beremoved immediately. Stubborn stainsmay be treated using a mild detergentsolution.WARNING: Never leave excess water todry on these floors – mop up at once!In higher traffic situations additional coatsof WESTCO floor seals should be appliedand a regular routine of maintenanceinstituted.High traffic areas that eventually showsigns of wear should be treatedimmediately with a coat of WESTCO Seal.Wear is usually indicated by a dulling ofthe surface and grey appearance. Most of these floors can be sanded andresealed, if serious surface damage occurs.

However, it is much better to maintain thefloor with frequent coats of seal rather thanmajor sanding and resealing.

LAMINATE FLOORSLaminated floors can be cleaned using avacuum cleaner or damp cloth.When necessary wipe using a mop or clothwell wrung out in warm water. USE ASLITTLE WATER AS POSSIBLE. Dry thefloor immediately after mopping. Anyspillages should be removed immediately.Stubborn stains may be treated using amild detergent solution.The floors should not be treated with waxor polish. Never use scouring powder orsteel wool on laminated flooring.These floors cannot be sanded.Use WESTCO Laminate Floor Cleaner torefresh the surface.

VINYL FLOORSSweep when necessary to remove surfacegrit and dust. Wipe over with a damp clothor mop. Clean with a non abrasive liquidvinyl floor cleaner, following themanufacturers instructions. These tiles donot require polishing, however with time,some heavily trafficked areas may dullwith wear. If this occurs, a coat of“WESTCO FLOOR GLOSS” will restore thefloor.You must not use ammonia basedcleaners.

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TYPE OF STAIN CLEANING AGENT

Fruit, berries, juice, milk, creams, soft drinks, beer, wine, coffee, tea Mild detergent

Chocolate, fat, oil, shoe-polish,shoe-heel marks, tar, asphalt White spirit

Pen, ink, lipstick Methyl alcohol

Blood Cold water

Paint, oil, asphalt Acetone, petrol,methyl alcohol

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WARRANTIES

Certain products carry warranties for usein domestic locations. Check packaging fordetails but note that the warranty coversonly the goods, which must have beeninstalled and maintained in accordancewith instructions. Warranties do not affectyour statutory rights

REPAIRS

Floating floorsTO REPLACE SINGLE BOARDS INFLOATING FLOORS (GLUELESS)If you have used glueless flooring then yousimply disconnect each board from theperimeter by lifting the edge thereby“springing” the joint or clip.When you reach it – remove the damagedboard. Replace it and relay the floor. Agood hint is to use as a replacement boardone that was previously used on theperimeter to fill your gap then replace thatboard with a new one.

TO REPLACE SINGLE BOARDS INFLOATING FLOORS (GLUED)

a) Cut out the centre of the damagedboard using bow saw, circular saw orchisel, leaving a border of approx. 3-4mm

b) Lift out the oblong section.c) Using a chisel (or similar) detach the

remains of the damaged board from itsneighbours. Clean all dry glue etc off thetongue and groove of the neighbouringboards.

d) Take the replacement boards and cut off

the lower portion of the grooved sides.See below.

e) Lay in position to ensure good fit.f) Glue receiving tongues and grooves.

Drop replacement board into position.Cork tiles To remove these use a sharpcraft knife to slice the tile into strips. Thenapply hot air to the scars and work loosewith a paint scraper.Solid Wood Mosaic Parquet cut out thedamaged finger or square by scribingaround the area with a craft knife – cutright through the backing felt or paper.Lever out the damaged area with a chisel –avoid damaging the adjacent areas. If thearea is large begin at the centre and workout thus protecting the perimeter. Scrapeup all the old adhesive and backing usinga paint scraper and hot air gun.Vinyl tiles can be lifted using a hairdryer orhot air gun. Heat the tile (this takes longeron concrete subfloors than timber), thenuse a flat bladed paint scraper to lift thetile. Clean off the adhesive that remains onthe floor using a blade and hot air.

To use Westco Mosaic ParquetAdhesive when re-sticking selfadhesive vinyl tilesRemove the tiles which are lifting bywarming them with a hairdryer or hot airgun, this will soften the tiles and stopthem breaking.Ease tiles up by using a wide blade scraperor similar.Lightly sand the existing surface usingsome fine sandpaper to form a “key”.Brush/wipe away any dust/grit which hasformed.Using the flat side of the spreader insidethe lid of the tub, apply a thin even coat to

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the existing surface, leave forapproximately 30 minutes or until ‘tacky’.Re-apply vinyl tiles by firmly pressingdown, remembering to have a clean, dampcloth handy in case any adhesive seepsbetween the joints.

To clean floor gloss off sealed floors:* Use 2 parts water (cold)* Use 1 part domestic ammonia* Wash over with solution* Clean off using clean cloth and fresh

warm water* Completely dry off before applying further

coats of seal.

Sanding: When we discuss sanding we areusually referring to the light sanding knownas “keying”. All sealed floors will showsigns of wear eventually eg. in doorways.The best way to maintain floors is to treatthem well before the seal wears off. To dothis ‘key the surface i.e. roughen thesurface using medium sandpaper and re-apply seal (see on pack instructions).Major sanding using a drum sander (orsimilar) should only be done to refurbishold floors it should never be necessary todo this on WESTCO products in a domesticenvironments.

UNDERFLOOR HEATING

Some products are unsuitable for layingover underfloor heating.

LAYING MOSAIC PARQUET FLOORINGThe parquet flooring needs to beacclimatised in the area concerned with theunderfloor heating on for approximately 7days. The heating then needs to beswitched off for 48 hours prior to theflooring being laid. An alternative heatingmethod should be introduced to the area tocompensate for the loss of heat from theunderfloor heating, and to ensure similar

conditions whilst the flooring is being laid.When the flooring is completed theunderfloor heating needs to remain off for afurther 48 hours to allow the floor to ‘settle’and the adhesive to ‘set’ before beingswitched on and brought gradually up totemperature over the next several days.

LAYING GLUED LAMINATE/WOODThe laminate/wood flooring needs to beacclimatised in the area concerned withthe underfloor heating on for approximately3-4 days. The heating should then beswitched off for 24 hours prior to theflooring being laid. An alternative heatingshould then be introduced to the area tocompensate for the loss of heat from theunderfloor heating and to ensure similarconditions whilst the flooring is being laid.When the flooring is completed theunderfloor heating should remain off for afurther 24 hours to allow the floor to‘settle’ and the adhesive to ‘set’ beforebeing switched on and brought graduallyup to temperature over the next severaldays.

LAYING GLUELESS LAMINATE/WOODThe laminate/wood flooring need to beacclimatised in the area concerned withthe underfloor heating on for approximately3-4 days. The heating then needs to beswitched off for 24 hours prior to theflooring being laid. An alternative heatingshould then be introduced to the area tocompensate for the loss of heat from theunderfloor heating and to ensure similarconditions whilst the flooring is being laid.When the flooring is completed theunderfloor heating can be switched onstraight away, if necessary, and broughtgradually up to temperature over the nextseveral days.NOTE: Laminate should only be laid overwarm water system underfloor heating.The surface temperature of the laminateflooring should not exceed 26˚C.

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MORE INFORMATION ABOUTWOOD PARQUET

There are many reasons to choose parquet.Some of the most important are:• Parquet is a natural product, made from

wood.• Parquet is durable and economic. In

case of occasional damage, it can becleaned and renovated without anyproblem.

• Parquet is attractive, appealing, and fullof character.

• Parquet is hygienic and anti-allergic.• Parquet is versatile and available in

many design and wood species.• Parquet can be used in all decorating

styles from minimalist to classic.• Parquet is also an ideal choice for shops,

schools, offices and sporting arenas.(Check individual product suitability).

• Parquet brings nature straight into yourhome.

COLOURS OF WOODSWhether choosing real hardwood orlaminate wood effect it is useful to knowthe basic colours of wood:

Golden brownwith green, lightand dark variants,heavy grainingand figuring.

Light, pink, plainwood, straightgrain.

Warm, reddishtone, naturalcherry darkenswith age, verydecorative wood.

Light with‘golden’/reflectiveaspect, small darkknots.

Dark redwoodwith straightgrain, somegolden ribspossible.

Very light, prettyfiguring in thegrain structure.

Light, goldencolour. Straightgrain with beech-type effects. Somedark scars.

Ash is light with acharacteristic highlevel of grain –often in ‘cathedral’shapes.

Rhodesian Teak isvery hard, darkwood suitable forcontracts.

Bamboo isavailable light ordark. It is not atimber but agrass. It works inrooms with higherhumidities.

15CHERRY

BIRCH

MERBAU

MAPLE

PARAWOOD

ASH

RHODESIAN TEAK

BAMBOO LIGHT

BAMBOO DARK

OAK

BEECH

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ABRASION RESISTANCEDefines the wearing properties of thesurface laminate and specifies theappropriate range of applications. Thiswas measured using the famous(infamous) Taber Test, which now formspart of a basket of tests that lead to ausage classification from BS EN 13329.

AC RATINGSee EN 13329.

ADHESIVEThe manufacturers recommendedadhesive must be used, always readthe instructions on both the adhesivecontainer and the flooring pack.

BALANCING LAYERRefers to a layer on the underside ofthe core material. Has similar physicalcharacteristics (expansion coefficient,

moisture resistance etc.) to top layers.This layer balances the top layer in atraditional “ply” construction.

BS8203:- says “The quality of thefinished floor will only be as good as thesubfloor over which it has been laid.”

COREDepending on the product, the coreconsists of particleboard, MDF(fibreboard), or softwood.

CHIPBOARDSee particleboard.

EMISSION CLASSIFICATIONThe term emission classification orsimilar followed by the rating E1 is anindication that formaldehyde emissionsare within the permissible levels forwood derived products.

GLOSSARY

SECRET NAILING

Secret nailing: You can secret nail overchipboard, decking, floorboards or joists ifflat etc. It is very important that the firstrow is parallel to the centre of the room.Measure the room in a number of placesand mark the centre using a chalk line.Now measure from the centre of the wallleaving an expansion gap of 12 mm fromthe wall - mark several points and make achalk line (this will be 12 mm off thewall). If the wall is very uneven you willneed to scribe the boards and cut themaccordingly - see earlier.To lay the first row use the longest boardsyou have available. These make keeping astraight edge easier. (If laying on joistsmark the joists lines on the wall. NB Youcan only lay at right angle to the joists,centres should be no more than 400mm.Nail (or screw) through the face of the first

row to secure this straight line. (Use adrill marginally smaller than the diameterof the nails to ease the work).Now fit the next row onto the protrudingtongues of the first row. Use an off cut orblock to force the rows tight together. Nownail through the tongue at 45-50 degrees.DO NOT PUNCH THE NAIL HOME WITHTHE HAMMER AS THIS WILL BRUSE THEEDGE OF THE FLOOR. Use a nail punchto drive the nails in.You can also use a pneumatic nailer orstapler from a hire shop - follow theirinstructions and obey the safety advice. Stagger the boards so that there is at least300mm overlap at each joint. When youreach the last row, use the tool from thefitting kit to position the boards thennail/screw through the face and fill.NB Only lay flooring on joists if the onpack instructions confirm it is self-supporting.

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EN 13329European standard that describes thequality, grade and recommendedapplications of the laminate flooring. Astandardised form of labelling relatingto grading of the laminate flooring hasalso been introduced. Usually theseclassifications are referred to “AC”ratings with AC1 being light/domesticand AC5 being heavy /commercial. AnISO standard is expected to follow.

EXPANSION GAPS Wood or wood based floors (laminate)need perimeter gaps, typically around12 mm. These allow expansion andcontraction. Larger areas should bebroken down into portions. Note otherobstacles such as pillars or hearthsmust have an expansion gap betweenthem and the flooring. Always use corkstrip to retain the gap.

FIRE CLASSIFICATIONContact us for specific advice.

FINISHPrefinished, pre -oiled etc. means thefloor has already been treated with aseal or oil finish and requires no furthercoats (except in high traffic areas seeon pack instructions).

GLUELESS SYSTEMSA mechanical jointing system forflooring allowing installation withoutthe use of adhesives. Usually takes theform of a special interlocking profiletongue and groove section machinedinto the core or clips attached to thebase of the planks, interlocking them.

HDFAbbreviation for High DensityFibreboard, commonly used as acompact core in laminate flooringproducts. Properties include goodstrength, durability and dimensionalaccuracy.

LIGHT-FASTNESSThe ability of the decorative surface toresist colour change over time.

MDFMedium density fibreboard. Lighter inweight than high density fibreboard.

MELAMINE RESIN COATINGA polymer coating made frommelamine and an aldehyde that formsthe wear layer in laminate flooring andprotects the decor layer below. Alsoused on the balancing layer.

OVERLAYTerm used to describe the resin -coated wear layer of laminate flooringproducts, rendering the producthardwearing and easy to clean. Maycontain additional mineral elements toenhance performance.

PARTICLEBOARDParticleboard, often referred to aschipboard, is a wood-derived productmade by subjecting wood chips and abinding agent to intense pressure.There are many grades, largelydetermined by the density of the board.

POROSITYThe capacity of a material to take inwater.

QUADRANTA moulding shaped used to coverexpansion gaps.

REPAIRFloors can be repaired, refer to thissection earlier.

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This box denotes yourarea of application, vis.residential or commercialarea.

Shown here, ratings identifyingload intensities: moderate, general or heavy.

This figure denotes punishmentclasses acc. to “Euro-Norm 685”.

e.g. private guestroom, bedroom.

e.g. living room, diningroom, children’s room.

e.g. hallway, livingroom, home office.

generalResidential area

moderate general heavy

e.g. hotel rooms,small office.

e.g. office, boutique, café.

e.g. open-plan offices,public buildings, department stores.

moderate general heavy

Commercial area

AC1 AC2 AC3

AC3 AC4 AC5

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RESISTANCERefer to EN 13329.

SANDINGSee ‘Repairs’.

SCOTIAA moulding shaped used to coverexpansion gaps.

SOUND INSULATIONInsulation materials such aspolyethylene foam, polystyrene, or corksandwiched between the load bearingstructure and floating laminate floor,ensures that noise from foot traffic isreduced.

STAIN RESISTANCE Refer to laminate guide.

SUB FLOORThe primary floor that the new floor(finish) is to be laid over. Basically thiscan range from directly to ground(unsuitable for all Westco products) viaconcrete to wood (both traditional floorboard to modern chipboard effect)Understand your sub floor constructionand check it is dry, level, clean andsound before fixing Westco products.

TABER-TESTThe much quoted taber value denotes atest performed according to Europeanstandard EN 438-2.6, with the aim ofanalysing resistance to abrasion.During the experiment, a section oflaminate flooring is rotated under twoabrasive sanding wheels. Rotationalspeed, sandpaper grain andreplacement frequency are meticulously

laid down in the procedural guidelines.The unit of measurement is the numberof rotations before wear becomesapparent. The initial point (IP) valuedescribes the point at which the firstsigns of scuffing begin to appear, thefinal point (FP) is reached when thewear and decor layer have been 95%obliterated. By this time, the product isconsidered to have reached the end ofits useful life. The DIN standard allowsfor a mean wear index number bytaking the average of the IP and FPvalues.

THICKNESSThe total thickness of the product isusually expressed in millimetres. Vinylfloors range from 1.1mm to 2.0mm;cork 3.00 to 4.00mm; Solid Woodfrom 6 to 22mm; Engineered woodfrom 8 to 14mm and Laminate from 6to 12mm. Note the use of underlayadds 2 to 4mm to a floors’ totalthickness. Thinner products areadvantageous in refurbishment projectswhere they can be laid over existingsub-floor without unnecessarily addingto the height of the floor.

TONGUE & GROOVE JOINT (T & G)A method of joining boards using aprotruding tongue which mates with amatching groove. With a conventional t & g joint a bead of glue is applied tothe concealed joint to give a tight-fittingbond. By making the tongue and grooveof an interlocking profile, the need forglue may be unnecessary see ‘glueless’.

UNDER FLOOR HEATINGSee earlier in the guide.

WESTERN CORK LTD.Penarth Road, Cardiff CF11 8YN, Great BritainTel: 02920 376700Fax: 02920 383573www.westcofloors.co.uk

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