first two years 2011

© Project SOUND

Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden

Gardening with Western L.A. County Native Plants Project SOUND – 2011 (our 7th year)

© Project SOUND

The First Two Years in the Native Plant

Garden C.M. Vadheim and T. Drake

CSUDH & Madrona Marsh Preserve

Madrona Marsh Preserve

August 20 & 23, 2011

The first two years can be a little scary…..

© Project SOUND

…trust me, it’s even more scary for the plants!

Nursery life is heavenly:

Plenty of water

Nice, appropriate, well-drained potting soil

Extra nutrients

A little extra shade/ temperature control

Pest-free

Basically, a coddled life-style that allows many of them to survive infancy (as they rarely would in the wild)

© Project SOUND

What happens in nature? [Ceanothus]

Out in nature

A big disturbance – fire/etc. removes at least the shoots of existing plants

Plant Year 1 – with adequate rainfall seeds to sprout & establish new seedlings; root system develops

Plant Year 2 – chugging right along expanding roots & shoots

Plant Year 3 – pretty much established

In the new garden

A big disturbance – you remove existing plants

Plant Year 1 – the plant is established in the nursery – likely more water, nutrients than in nature

Plant Year 2/Garden Year 1 – you plant your new Ceanothus in the garden – what a shock! Some root/shoot growth

Plant Year 3/Garden Year 2 – developing good roots & shoots

Plant Year 4/Garden Year 3 – almost established

© Project SOUND

10 Lessons to help you – and your plants -

through the first two years

© Project SOUND

What is the ‘Establishment Phase’?

The period in which a new plant becomes relatively self-sustaining (when given it’s requirements) – a gradual process

Involves two aspects: Acclimating to the garden environment

Developing sufficient root structure to support and sustain the plant

Generally, the plant becomes 2-3 times its planting size during this Phase

Plants require extra care during the establishment phase

© Project SOUND

What is the ‘Establishment Phase’?

Length varies by species, but some general rules of thumb:

Annuals: 1-2 months

Herbaceous perennials: 1-3 years

Perennial grasses: 1-2 years

Local sub-shrubs: 1-2 years

Woody shrubs & trees: 2-5 years; the larger & slower-growing species take up to 5 years

© Project SOUND

What is required during the Establishment

Phase?

Increased observation – as with any baby

Extra water during dry periods – including prolonged winter dry spells and summer/fall

Decreased competition from other plants – most notably weeds

© Project SOUND

Lesson 1: Plant with the seasons

© Project SOUND

What do we mean by ‘plant with the seasons’?

© Project SOUND

The growth cycle of S. CA native

perennial species (herbaceous to woody)

Fall/winter rains (Dec-Mar) Seeds germinate (many)

Begin above-ground stem growth

Leaf out (may be ‘spring’ leaves)

‘early’ flowering – some species

Spring warm/dry down period (Apr-June) Seed germination (warm weather)

Continue stem growth

Many will flower

© Project SOUND

Advantages to planting during the rainy

season

© Project SOUND

Saves water – soils are naturally moist (Water Zone 3) during the critical first few months

Vulnerable plants get the best water possible; dissolved oxygen & nutrients

Vulnerable plants are not exposed to temperature extremes (at least in the past)

Soils are well-saturated – promotes deep/wide root growth

Coincides with native plant’s normal growth cycle; plants are primed to grow at this time

How much do I need to water during the

first two years?

© Project SOUND

Lesson 2: Water to promote survival, not

abundant growth

© Project SOUND

Watering: the impact of

where we live

© Project SOUND http://www.water.ca.gov/wateruseefficiency/docs/wucols00.pdf

Region 3-South Coastal Climate Zones 22, 23 & 24

CIMIS ETo Zones 1, 2, 4 and 6

Region 4-South Inland Valleys and Foothills Climate Zones 18, 19, 20

and 21

CIMIS ETo Zone 9

The benefits – and challenges – of where we live

We can grow plants from a number of plant communities: Wetland/riparian

Northern coastal prairie/CSS

Southern coastal prairie

CSS

Chaparral

Southern oak woodland

Mojave & Sonoran deserts

We need to be aware of local weather patterns Winters may be overly dry – or wet

Plants from some communities need more water than we usually get – at least in the summer

© Project SOUND

Newly planted native plants should get a

thorough soaking

Soak new plants no matter what the planting season

The first watering is important – over-soak to settle the soil & remove air pockets

Overhead watering is fine – the plants will think it’s raining

© Project SOUND

Treat new plants as Water Zone 3 for the

first winter/early spring (through April)

© Project SOUND

http://royrector.com/garden/?p=124

http://www.ecofitt.ca/Products/WaterProducts/Lawn-and-Garden/Soil-Moisture-Meter

Rains may do the job

Check soil moisture, especially if we have: Long period (3+ weeks) with no

winter rains

Very hot periods (winter Santa Anas)

Strong winds (soil dries faster than you think)

Check beneath the surface (under mulch) - ~ 3-4 inches Dig down with trowel

Use a moisture meter or soil sampler

http://royrector.com/garden/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Soil-Sampling-Tube-e1293285291806.jpg

So, we’ve gotten to June, and it’s starting

to get hot & dry….

© Project SOUND

The first dry season is crucial - and challenging

‘Don’t under-water; plants can die before they become established’

‘Don’t over water! It leads to the death of many native plants; their roots suffocate & die of rot or disease.’

© Project SOUND

http://dharmaconsulting.com/products/accelerating-change/

We’ve been led to believe that all plants

grow like tropical plants…

© Project SOUND http://www.kriyayoga.com/love_blog/post.php/950

…and now the native plant ‘experts’ are trying to give us

the same 1-2-3 gardening rules

© Project SOUND

http://kmgardendesign.com/Portfolio-CANativeGarden.htm

Why can’t those (@@###**) experts get

their watering advice straight???

© Project SOUND

http://www.glenbrookenews.com/2009/10/04/home-owners-association-workhop/

With CA native plants, one size does NOT fit all

Why can’t those (@@###**) experts get

their watering advice straight???

Your soils (and other relevant conditions) may be different

They may be talking about a different climate region (often N. CA)

They may be thinking about different species which have different water needs

© Project SOUND

You need to consider the

information source - and use the

Water Zone principles

http://www.glenbrookenews.com/2009/10/04/home-owners-association-workhop/

© Project SOUND

Gardens in Mediterranean climates

(including S. CA) have three Water Zones

Zone 1 – no supplemental summer water; soils are dry in summer/fall.

Zone 2 – occasional summer water; soil is allowed to dry out between waterings. Watering is slow & deep to replenish the soil water stores. In most gardens, you will water deeply 1-2 times per month in summer.

Zone 3 – regular water; soil is usually moist to soggy, even in summer.

© Project SOUND

Water Zone

Description Picture Result/consequence (for mature plants)

Zone 1 No supplemental water

Many Zone 1 plants (including many native to western L.A. county & deserts) become summer dormant; some shade species remain green

Zone 2

Occasional water; soil dries out between deep waterings

Includes ‘CA Natives’ from many plant communities; occasional summer water helps many species to remain evergreen – many also extend bloom season

Zone 3 Regular water; soil moist/ soggy

Only native riparian and some mountain/N. CA species – will kill many local CA natives

Water Zone Principles for the first 2 years

‘Water to keep the plant alive, not to make it grow fast. Try to make the plant drought tolerant!’

‘Watering less often and more deeply to stimulate roots to grow deeper instead of on the surface where they will be susceptible to drying out.’

© Project SOUND

Interpretation: give more water

than the plant’s mature Water

Zone – but as close to it as

reasonable. Taper the amount

of water off as the root system

develops.

Interpretation: follow good

Water Zone practices (e.g. water

deeply and less frequently) even

during the first 2 years

Why more water during the first year?

Weaning from ‘nursery conditions’ which included plenty of water

Less cover/shade = higher evaporation rates

Less developed/ efficient root systems - < 10% of area covered by roots

© Project SOUND

No two gardens are alike: that’s why you

need to monitor your soil moisture

Check soil moisture every 1-2 weeks during the first year; water as needed using the ‘rules of thumb’

Remember: some areas may dry out more quickly

© Project SOUND

The only way you can assure that you are

watering correctly is to use the Water Zone

method and check your soils!

Watering rules of thumb -

the first 2 years

Year 1: First winter/spring – Zone 3

(rain alone may suffice)

First summer/fall – one full Water Zone more than it’s mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept unless it gets summer rain in nature

Year 2: Second winter/spring – water

only if rains are inadequate

Second summer/fall: Grasses & local native sub-

shrubs: mature Water Zone

All other perennial/woody species: ½ Zone above mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept. unless it gets summer rain in nature

© Project SOUND

Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: occasional supplemental summer water

The best ways to supply water during the

first two years – S. CA gardens

Low frequency (1-4 times a month), long duration (4-12 hours) irrigation is best to thoroughly soak the soil.

Hose, drip, soaker hose or low volume "micro“ sprinkler are often good choices

Use overhead watering very carefully – don’t let leaves remain moist in warm weather

Do not water during the heat of the day. Try very early morning or evening (good in coastal areas)

© Project SOUND

http://lawncare.savvy-cafe.com/save-money-and-water-with-smart-lawn-and-garden-tips-2009-08-17/

http://www2.ljworld.com/photos/2009/aug/16/

http://lawncare.savvy-cafe.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/sprinkler.jpg

© Project SOUND

Some more irrigation tips for watering young

native plants For individual plants, drip irrigation or hose watering is best. You can even use a ‘Homer Bucket’ for individual plants.

For large areas, micro-sprinklers or soaker hoses are best – good flexibility, control & coverage.

Don’t forget to move the irrigation out as roots grow; make sure that the entire root system gets wet.

Because conditions vary from garden to garden, and even within gardens, the best irrigation schedule is determined by watching your plants. Manually set each zone on the controller.

Relax: in well-drained soils, water is not typically an issue when the appropriate plants are chosen for the site (i.e., full sun, coastal...), and planting takes place during the cool, rainy season

This class is about teaching you ‘how to fish’

© Project SOUND

http://www.clipartheaven.com/show/clipart/kids_stuff/images_(a_-_f)/fishing-gif.html

Bunchgrasses –

Water Zone 1-2









© Project SOUND


Deergrass – Muhlenbergia rigens

Why do bunchgrasses mature quickly

(have a short establishment Phase)?

Perennial grasses tend to grow quickly – they establish an extensive root system the first year

They tend to have relatively deep roots (3+ feet) compared to non-native lawn grasses

S. CA bunchgrasses tolerate dry conditions really well

© Project SOUND

http://www.pitzer.edu/offices/arboretum/tongva_gard

en/plants/19-Muhlenbergia_rigens.htm

The growth cycle of S. CA native

perennial species (herbaceous to woody)

Dry period (June/July-Nov) Stem elongation (slower; may be

‘summer’ type growth pattern)

Foliage: effect depends on species Evergreen plants usually produce no

new leaves – but retain leaves

Many plants in some plant communities (Coastal Sage Scrub; Coastal Prairie; Coastal shrubland) are drought deciduous

Some plants from these communities produce special ‘summer leaves’ that may remain on the plant until late summer

May leaf out & even flower if summer rains/watering occur

© Project SOUND

Why this variability & what

does it mean for watering?

A comparison of two shrubs

Coastal Sage Scrub Black Sage – Salvia mellifera

Chaparral Bigpod Ceanothus – C. megacarpus

© Project SOUND

California Black Sage – Salvia mellifera

Black Sage – Salvia mellifera

A “CA coastal plant”

Coastal ranges from San Jose to Baja

Channel Islands and Baja coastal islands

on South and West facing slopes on rocky soil in California's coastal sage scrub and chaparral plant communities

Often in slightly wetter sites than other native Salvias

Common; may form dense thickets in wild

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?4745,4865,4880

http://www.swsbm.com/Maps/Salvia_mellifera.gif

Black Sage is one tough plant – and part of the reason is it’s summer dormancy!!!!

http://www.cnps.org/programs/vegetation/Coyote_Ridge/images/10a_Artemisia_californica-Salvia_mellifera_SS.jpg

Watering rules of thumb: Black Sage – Salvia mellifera –

Zone 1-2 Year 1:

First winter/spring – Zone 3 (rain alone may suffice)

First summer/fall – one full Water Zone more than it’s mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.

Year 2: Second winter/spring – water only

if rains are inadequate

Second summer/fall: Grasses & local native sub-shrubs:

mature Water Zone

All other perennial/woody species: ½ Zone above mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.

© Project SOUND


© Project SOUND

Big-pod Ceanothus – Ceanothus megacarpus

© Project SOUND

Big-pod Ceanothus – Ceanothus megacarpus

var. insularis

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Ceanothus+megacarpus+var.+insularis

var. megacarpus

Coast of S. CA from Santa Barbara to San Diego Co. – CA endemic var. insularis – Channel

Isl. (Catalina & San Clemente in south)

var. megacarpus – mainland (Santa Monica Mtns our nearest)

Dry, chaparral slopes below 2000 ft.

© Project SOUND

Big-pod Ceanothus

is a chaparral shrub Soils:

Texture: rocky or sandy best – needs well-drained soil

pH: any local

Light: Full sun to light shade

Benefits from afternoon shade in hot inland gardens

Water: Winter: needs good winter

rains

Summer: low needs – Zone 1-2 (water very infrequently, if at all, once established)

Fertilizer: none; likes poor soils; likes an organic mulch

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3275037528_782b3c6c8f.jpg?v=0

Ceanothus –

Water Zone 1-2 Year 1:

First winter/spring – Zone 3 (rain alone may suffice)

First summer/fall – one full Water Zone more than it’s mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept. unless it gets summer rains in nature

Year 2: Second winter/spring – water only

if rains are inadequate

Second summer/fall: Grasses & local native sub-shrubs:

mature Water Zone

All other perennial/woody species: ½ Zone above mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept. unless it gets summer rains in nature

© Project SOUND


http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/bigpodceanothus.html

Comparison of yearly cycle: CSS vs Chaparral

Coastal Sage Scrub

Environmental Lower total moisture/rain

Moderate temperatures

Less natural mulch

Growth patterns Summer deciduous (facultative)

Short, rapid growth season – winter through May/June

May produce separate ‘summer foliage’ (late spring) that is more drought resistant

Chaparral

Environmental Higher total moisture

Rain & snow

May also have summer rains

Wider temperature extremes

More natural mulch

Growth patterns Evergreen

Longer growth season – spring through summer

May have growth/flowering after summer rains

© Project SOUND

What happens when mature shrubs dry out?

Coastal Sage Scrub

Twigs become very dehydrated (lose 75-90% of their water)

Causes emboli (air bubbles) in the water conducting vascular tissue (Xylem tubes)

Causes plants to lose their leaves & become dormant

CSS shrubs are programmed to grow rapidly in response to water – they need to ‘re-grow’ their vascular tissue

Chaparral

Twigs don’t become so dehydrated (lose 15-~40% of their water)

Less apt to develop emboli

Thus, they can remain evergreen

Adult plants (which are drought tolerant) don’t need to react so quickly to water

© Project SOUND

Differences in root growth reflect native

environment

Coastal Sage Scrub

Environmental Lower total moisture/rain

Moderate temperatures

Less natural mulch

Roots – 1-8x above-ground area Wide-spread, multi-branched

(net-like) shallow (0-3 ft) roots – very efficient for water, nutrient up-take; grow with winter rains

Chaparral

Environmental Higher total moisture

Rain & snow

May also have summer rains

Wider temperature extremes

More natural mulch

Roots – 6-40x above-ground area Shallow roots – like CSS; grow

with rain

+/- Intermediate (often re-sprouting) roots

+/- Very deep vertical roots – down into bedrock & watertable

© Project SOUND

Take-home message

Perennials from CSS, Coastal Shrubland and Coastal Prairie have dense, shallow roots

They tend to become established quickly (1-2 years) and be < 6 ft tall

They tend to dry out in early summer – either losing their leaves or growing small summer leaves

Mature plants do best with little (Zone 1-2) water; will stay green longer – but shorter-lived – with more (Zone 2)

© Project SOUND

Take-home message

Plants from Chaparral have both shallow & deep roots, allowing them to maximize available water

The roots take longer to develop – hence the longer Establishment Phase for Chaparral shrubs

Once established, Chaparral shrubs are very drought tolerant

The roots of Chaparral shrubs allow them to be both evergreen and a large size (usually > 6 ft)

© Project SOUND

Watering rules of thumb -

the first 2 years









© Project SOUND

Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: occasional supplemental summer water; all others at mature Zone

What plant communities normally

experience some summer moisture?

Sonoran Desert

S. CA Mountain Communities

Chaparral (+/-)

Summer monsoon events usually Aug-Sept

Locally rare – but can contribute significant precipitation in a single event (1/2-3”)

Northern Coastal Sage Scrub/Coastal Chaparral

Fog events (usually over

several days) can provide up to 2-3 inches of precipitation

Can occur from June-Aug

Fog drip occurs at night

© Project SOUND

Summer monsoons Summer fogs

How do I know if my plants are growing properly?

© Project SOUND

Lesson 3: Species have normal growth

patterns; speed; size; shape; etc.

© Project SOUND

You may have heard this old saw about

the growth of CA native plants…

© Project SOUND

This probably fits large shrubs best

Grasses and grass-like plants look good,

but smaller, the first year

© Project SOUND

12 months

Bunchgrasses look a little thin the first year

© Project SOUND

Nassella – 6 months

Nassella – 24 months

Thin Grass – Agrostis pallens

‘lawn-like’ grasses take 1-2 years to look mature

© Project SOUND

3 months

6 months

12 months

24 months

Rushes & sedges

keep getting bigger

© Project SOUND 24 months

Perennials, especially the groundcover

types, often look pretty wimpy the first year

© Project SOUND

Hummingbird Sage – Salvia spathacea

Hummingbird Sage – slow to go

© Project SOUND

12 months

26 months

Woody groundcover plants fill in readily

© Project SOUND

Pigeon Point coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis 'Pigeon Point'), deer grass and

Canyon Prince giant rye (Leymus condensatus 'Canyon Prince'

2 years after planting

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44064758@N00/5055072908/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44064758@N00/5054454073/

Sub-shrubs often look mature quite early

© Project SOUND

4 months 6 months

8 months

Remember: these are CSS

sub-shrubs – they grow &

mature quickly

12 months

Large shrubs/small trees go through

an ‘adolescent phase’

Lemonadeberry – Rhus integrifolia

http://www.sanelijo.org/about/images/lemonadeberry.jpg

Lemonadeberry in the wild

Can grow as individual plants or form close thickets

http://www.ovrp.org/vegetation/images/Lemonadeberry.jpg http://www-

laep.ced.berkeley.edu/laep/courses/courses_la112.html

Heritage Creek hedgerow

Fall, 2009 – 1.5 years

Fall 2010

Spring 2011

Blue/Mexican Elderberry – Sambucus nigra spp. cerulea (S. cerulea)

http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/elderb3.htm

Elderberry doesn’t need a lot of pampering; in fact, it seems to thrive on neglect

© Project SOUND 6 months in the garden

1 year in the garden

2 years in the garden

Will take some time & pruning to reach this mature size!

© Project SOUND

Mulches do more than just conserve water…..

May help control the spread of plant diseases

May help control the effects/ numbers of insects

May help fruit/vegetable development

May help prevent soil erosion

Keeps feet clean, allowing access to garden even when damp

Provides a "finished" look to the garden

Can be an important design element (if desired)

http://www.ehow.com/how_2354262_ch

oose-between-rock-wood-mulch.html

© Project SOUND

Mulch helps in the transition period

http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Rosenbaum_2009/index.html

© Project SOUND

Conserving water & soil: mulch tips

Mulch when/where appropriate – great water management tool

Choose mulches appropriate for the plants (most important) and the physical conditions – see workbook materials

Organic mulches

Inorganic mulches

Look to Mother Nature when choosing mulches

http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Kasameyer_2009/index.html

Organic mulches need to be renewed

every fall

Why the need to renew? Compaction

Decomposition/breakdown

Loses it’s color

Benefits of mulch renewal in fall Easy time – when plants

are dormant/pruned

Adds color/interest

Prepares garden to conserve the winter rains

© Project SOUND

Filler plants are a

life-saver

Short-lived grasses Blue wildrye – Elymus glaucus

CA Brome – Bromus carinatus

Annual wildflowers Clarkias

Tidy-tips

Globe Gilia

Phacelias

Everlastings

Perennials that re-seed CA Poppy

Rosy Buckwheat © Project SOUND

© Project SOUND

Blue Wildrye – Elymus glaucus

USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

http://jrbpgrasses.blogspot.com/2006/04/blue-wildrye-elymus-glaucus-apriljune.html

© Project SOUND

Blue (Western) Wildrye – Elymus glaucus

Short-lived, cool-season bunchgrass

Occurs: coast to mountains; open areas, chaparral, woodland, forest - often riparian areas

Size: 1-3+ ft; spreading – texture somewhat coarse (typical ryegrass)

Light: full sun to light shade (under Mulefat or Elderberry)

Soils: well-drained

Water: best on moderately moist soils but fairly drought tolerant

Good for natural-looking areas, slopes/banks, with oaks and conifers, as an accent plant http://www.gardenopus.com/ElymusGlaucus.JPG

Herbaceous perennial groundcovers

make great filler plants

Yarrow – Achillea millefolia

Woodmints – Stachys spp

Coastal Aster

CA Fuschia – Epilobium canum

© Project SOUND

© Project SOUND

What to do the first

few years

Nice mulch; fencing

Annual wildflowers

Short-lived, quick-growing perennials & grasses

Informative signs

http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Salsig_2009/index.html

Lesson 6 : Weeding is a fact of life

Weeds compete for water, nutrients & light – and they’re very good at it (that’s why they’re weeds!!

© Project SOUND

Lesson 7 : Start pruning in the first year

© Project SOUND

Remember – this plant gets very large without yearly tip-pruning

Monitoring for problems

Plant water status

Plant health/pests

Plants dying

Areas with too much or too little water

Erosion/drainage problems

Gaps in the plant cover (only after first 2 years or so – hard to tell before that)

Plants that don’t fit the design/ are out of place

© Project SOUND

Madrona Water-wise Garden – Est. 12/05

© Project SOUND April 2007 – 15 months

December 2005 - installation

April 2006 – 3 months

December 2006 – 12 months

Observations

Species distribution has changed – much like in nature (annuals & re-seeders common early on)

As expected, smaller plants established more quickly

The early garden looks ‘flat’ and ‘boring’ – many slow-growing species not yet visible

© Project SOUND

Observations

Some plants have not made it – others have flourished

Some plants are now in too much shade – succession

Some plants probably planted in the wrong place – grew too big

Some new plants are needed every year to fill gaps

© Project SOUND

© Project SOUND

Evolution of a front yard…

http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Zander_2009/index.html

2005

2009

Lessons for the First Two years

1. Plant with the seasons

2. Water to promote survival, not abundant growth

3. Species have normal growth patterns; speed; size; shape

4. Mulch to conserve water – and much more

5. Fill in the gaps with annuals, short-lived grasses, ‘filler plants’

6. Weeding is a fact of life

7. Start pruning in the first year

8. Monitor your progress/revise your plan as needed

9. Keep a Journal/ take photos

10. Learn from Mother Nature – the ‘Head Gardener’

© Project SOUND

first two years 2011

Education