file - fondazione gianfranco ferré · 2010. 2. 1. · close-fitting miniskirt with matching...

N. 24File

Jacket/miniskirt/blouse/belt outfit

Gianfranco Ferré

Ready-to-wear

Spring-Summer

1990

GIANFRANCO FERRE/MADE IN ITALY

Colonial color strips of suede interwoven, colonial color suede, colonial color viscose taffeta, colonial color cotton rib jersey, light brown reptile-print leather, gold metal buckle, white silk organza, white silk crepe, round gold metal button

Narrow suede strips in Vienna straw style: four separate sections interwoven one by one, with selvage edge, by the SF Italias.r.l. Sergio Favergiotti company in Vigevano.

Short full cut jacket sewn from four sections of interwoven suede, with dropped shoulders and ¾ sleeves. High neck in double rib jersey, fastened with two matching buttons.Close-fitting miniskirt with matching taffeta lining, sewn from four sections of interwoven suede, plus plain suede for the waistband. Interwoven suede/print leather belt with metal buckle.Mannish straight full cut blouse with organza front, sleeves and back in crepe. Padded shoulders with yoke, long sleeves withcuff, hidden buttoning mackintosh style. Pointed collar with one gold button.

Material research is a Ferré hallmark. Here the designer transforms leather, ever present in his collections, into lace. In so doing, however, he bypasses the traditional ornamental thread variety in favor of the straw weaves typical of interior décor.Made famous by the Thonet firm in the second half of the 19th century, the Vienna straw motif appeared in both raffia and fabric form in Ferré’s spring 1989 high fashion collection.In this particular case the architect within seems to influence the designer, for he constructs the outfit in a clean geometric way to highlight and enhance the openwork grid pattern – most striking in the unlined jacket with white blouse underneath.The result is a wonderfully elegant outfit, thanks also to the silk fabrics comprising the blouse and to the wide brim straw hat(again Vienna style) topping off the design on the catwalk. There is one detail, though, that comes directly from the men’s sporty suede jacket: namely, the rib jersey collar with two simple round buttons to match.

42 (10)

Designer

Collection

Season

Year

Label

Inventory

Materials

Working processes

Description

Remarks

Bibliography

Exhibitions

Size

GFF Woman SS 90 show originals Container no. 654, GFF Leather SS 90 Container no. 659

Sources

Picture Object

16/1

Look

Pg. # 1Printed on 2-1-2010 © Fondazione Gianfranco Ferré - All rights reserved

N. 24File

Good

02/09/2009

Condition

Present location

Acquisition

Enrica Morini

Author of file

Date of file


N. 24File


file - fondazione gianfranco ferré · 2010. 2. 1. · close-fitting miniskirt with matching...

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