Field Experiment on the Field Experiment on the Recurrence of Large Waves Recurrence of Large Waves

in Wind Seas in Wind Seas

Estonian University of Life SciencesEstonian University of Life Sciences

Hydrobiology Hydrobiology

Uko ViisutUko Viisut

AimAim

Verify the Quasi-determinism(QD) theory Verify the Quasi-determinism(QD) theory – –

Two large waves in two sea states with Two large waves in two sea states with the same spectrum and configuration of the same spectrum and configuration of the solid boundary belong to two identical the solid boundary belong to two identical sequences of waves. sequences of waves.

ExperiementExperiement

Find two waves with same...Find two waves with same...

2.2. TypeType

3.3. LocationLocation

4.4. SizeSize

5.5. Energy spectrumEnergy spectrum

Gauge used for measurementsGauge used for measurements

Horisontal beam, 15m long, orthogonally Horisontal beam, 15m long, orthogonally to the shoreline, mounted with 26 pressure to the shoreline, mounted with 26 pressure transducerstransducers

Gauge used for measurmentsGauge used for measurments

Results of the measurementsResults of the measurements

Three pairs of records that fulfilled the Three pairs of records that fulfilled the conditions were found.conditions were found. In all these three In all these three pairs of sea states the expectancy based pairs of sea states the expectancy based on the QD theory was confirmed. This fact on the QD theory was confirmed. This fact supports the validity of QD theory supports the validity of QD theory effectively.effectively.

DiscussionDiscussion

QD theory has theoretical and practical QD theory has theoretical and practical significance in ocean engineering and significance in ocean engineering and naval architecture. It suggests that naval architecture. It suggests that extreme wave loads are far from being extreme wave loads are far from being random. They tend to be deterministic. random. They tend to be deterministic. This is why some independent repetitions This is why some independent repetitions of the experiment are crucial for ocean of the experiment are crucial for ocean engineering and naval architecture. engineering and naval architecture.

ReferencesReferences

Open Journal of Marine ScienceOpen Journal of Marine Science, 2011, , 2011, 3, 69-723, 69-72

““A Field Experiment on the Recurrence A Field Experiment on the Recurrence of Large Waves in Wind Seasof Large Waves in Wind Seas “ by “ by Paolo Paolo BoccottiBoccotti..

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