fashion history 1900 - 1980

Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.

-‐ Oscar Wilde , 1949

Did you know … ?

Trends tend to repeat every 20 – 30 years (by that math, right now we should be wearing fashion from somewhere between 1987 and 1997 ... )

Fashion History

We will focus on womens fashion – it’s changed the most drasOcally. We can’t cover all of history, we will focus on the last 100 years. Most womens fashion throughout history (and arguably sOll today) reflects what society (men) think is aRracOve at the Ome. Womens clothes are made to create a certain shape or sillhoueRe deemed aRracOve. Womens rights movements (or in some eras, lack of) can be seen reflected in fashion throughout Ome.

Like now, lots of eras had more than one type of fashion. Also there were different styles for different ages, professions, and most certainly different levels of wealth. -‐ most of the styles we will cover are for the wealthy. Generally Europe led the way in fashion trends, with America following a year or two later (remember trends couldn’t travel as quickly in the past as there wasn’t the technology for it!) Even though we oZen talk about fashion eras in decades, eg 50’s, a lot of trends actually spilled over to the next decade, and the typical fashion of that era would usually be seen somewhere in the middle of the 10 years.. Eg the early 60’s in America sOll had a very 50’s look to it.

Keep in mind

1900 – 1910 The Edwardian Era

•  Called Edwardian era because Kind Edward 7th was reigning in England at the time.

•  Industrial Revolution took place 60 years earlier = new ‘modern technology’. Textiles industry among the first to use modern technology. Was one of the biggest employment areas around this time. Power loom and cotton gin invented in this time.

•  Aristocracy – very elite, upper class government. •  Class system reflected in fashion. •  People believed the more stuff you wore, the more

fashionable you were, and the more you were reflecting your wealth.


•  Women were expected to marry, have children, and stay home to look after the house and family.

•  If you did not marry a wealthy man, or if you remained single, life would likely be very difficult.

•  Most women who did need to work, worked as domestic servents (house maids)

•  Womens suffrage movements continue (started in 1860) •  Single women not entitled to any form of ‘benefit’ – working

class women become social outcasts eg not allowed to attend church. Single mothers poorest in society.

•  Some of the wealthy have cars – women need to be able to sit in cars.

“Let women be what God intended, a helpmate for man, but with totally different du>es

and voca>ons.” -‐ Queen Victoria, 1870

Unrealistic body ideals go way back …


•  ‘S curve’, ‘wasp waist’, ‘pigeon breast’ sillhouette created by corsets

•  Women wore tight corsets and long skirts. Last era of wearing corsets every day. No more bustle. – not practical for sitting

•  Skirts became more fitted through the hips, and flared at the hem. Tailored jackets.

•  From 1905 – 1907, waistlines rose. •  Feathered hats

Question … how many layers of undergarments and clothing do you think women wore in the 1900’s? Count as you watch this youtube clip… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqRD3_Zl-3g

Exit Slip

•  Write down three things you learned today that are interesting / weird / important

•  Write down what you would most like about living in the 1900’s

•  Write down what you would most dislike about living in the 1900’s

Pop quiz 1900-‐1910

•  Who was the king of England at the Ome? •  What was the ideal body shape at the Ome? •  What was the role of women at the Ome? •  What accessories would a woman never leave the house without?

•  What kind of hunOng was popular at the Ome? •  Roughly how many layers of clothing and accessories would a women need to put on each morning?

Pop quiz 1900-‐1910

•  King Edward 7th •  Wasp waist, pigeon breast, s curve •  Gloves, Hat, Brooch, Parisole / Umbrella •  Plume hunOng – for feathers for hats. •  16 – stockings, slip, shoes, drawers, corset, bustle pad, two pehcoats, corset cover, skirt, blouse, brooch, belt, hat, sleeves, gloves.

hRp://www.slice.ca/ -‐


1910s: Edwardian Corset

hRp://fiveminutehistory.com/

Sports oulit – upper class women played golf and croquet. (lower class women would not have taken part in any sports. V&A Museum

Summer day dress 1905, Great Britain V&A Museum Blue and white oulits popular for wearing to the beach – this might have been the start of ‘nauOcal’ fashion??


Where you might have seen this fashion … Peter Pan (1904)

What did you learn today?

•  In your book, write down two things you learned today.

•  If you met a relaOve from the 1900’s … what would you like to tell her or ask her about the fashion of the Ome?

1910- 1920 •  WWI 1914 – 1918 •  Employment of women rose, as men were at war. Almost 1

million women were employed in the muniOons (making weapons for war). They were not paid the same as what men were being paid.

•  Female bus drivers went on strike in 1918 for equal pay •  When men returned from war, many women were fired,

while others conOnued working alongside men but for lower wages.

•  Women proved they were efficient workers, but government sOll percieved women to be less producOve. SuffrageRe movement in England on hold for 4 years while at war. Women over 30 were given the vote in 1918 aZer the war ended.

•  Trousers become a symbol of womens rights

•  St Cuthbert’s opened in 1915! •  Maybelline, the makeup brand, started in 1915.

•  First Keds sneaker -‐ 1917 •  First Converse basketball shoe -‐ 1917 •  1916 – first issue of BriOsh Vogue (started as a small weekly newspaper in America in 1892)

1910- 1920

Fun Fact

Anna Wintour has worked as editor-‐in-‐chief at Vogue USA since 1988 – 28 years!!

The SuffrageRes •  Womens organisaOons who fought for women to get the vote. These organisaOons

were started up in many countries – though we oZen hear the most about the BriOsh suffrageRe movement. Kate Shephard established the NZ suffrageRe movement.

•  Women involved belonged mostly to upper-‐class, and some middle-‐class. •  They wore main stream fashion and wore the colours of white (purity), purple (dignity)

and green (hope).

The SuffrageRes

Did you know?

•  New Zealand was the first country to give women the vote, in 1893? Thank you Kate Shephard!!

Discuss

What do you think womens right to vote has to do with fashion??

•  Soft silhouettes •  Big hats •  Short hair •  Clothing simpler (but still quite elaborate by todays standards) due to

fabric rations. •  Dress length shorter - to above the ankle! This made it easier for women

to move about. •  Shorter dress length meant that body hair was now visible, and not seen to

be attractive. Womens razers became a thing in 1915 – and ever since then women have been expected to remain hair free.

•  ‘Duster Coat’ – a coat to wear over your clothing when traveling by car. •  Women's swimwear was very conservative, extending down to the mid-

thigh. Sometimes more conservative women wore leggings with these already modest swimsuits.

1910- 1920

Coco Chanel

Where you might have seen this fashion … Downton Abby (1912 – 1926) Mary Poppins (1910) The Titanic (1912)

1910 - 1920

1920 – 1930 the ROARING TWENTIES

•  Women started managing their own funds •  Women started playing sports •  For the first time women stopped wearing corsets all day

every day •  Suffrage movements continue across the world. One way to

get noticed was through actions considered provocative at the time – riding bikes, wearing pants, organising protests.

•  Women showing more skin than they had since primitive times (cave women)

•  Prohibiton in America 1920 – 1933 (ban on production and sale of alcohol) – this meant lots of secret clubs / parties (just like in Great Gatsby)

•  Jazz music became popular


•  Art Deco style emerged in around 1925 – it influenced architecture, fashion, jewelrey, advertisting, and more.

Women made bold fashion choices – cutting their hair short, smoking, and drinking, straight-cut dresses that were hiked above their knees and bras made specifically to flatten their chests. This look was created by Coco Chanel and termed "garconne”. (boy)


•  Fashion was more casual, sporty, and daring. •  Flapper Dress •  Cloche Hat •  Tubular Sillhouette •  Fashion Magazines like Vogue became very popular.

Feathers Velvet Long beaded necklaces Head pieces Knit / jersey fabric


Films you may have seen 1920’s fashion in … •  Changeling (1928) •  The Great Gatsby (1922 - ) •  Chicago •  The house of Elliott

1930 – 1940 The Great Depression

•  1929 – stock market crashes causing a depression •  Effects of stock market crash lasted the entire decade •  1939 – WWII begins •  Step backward in fashion – only the very wealthy can afford new

clothes. •  From frivolous and risque 1920’s fashion to conservative and

sensible 1930’s fashion •  High unemployment •  Waistline returned to natural waist and hemline came longer again •  Clothes were more feminine and fitted again, which meant many

women relied on shapewear again. This time a girdle. •  A lot of effort went in to looking successful and well dressed. •  Fur, floral patterns, shoulder pads, •  Bias cut becomes popular for evening wear

•  Buy yesterday's bread •  Use old blankets to re-line your worn out coats •  Cut up old adult clothing to fit your children •  Use scraps of fabric to mend small holes in clothing •  Repurpose as many items as possible •  Melt down dregs of old makeup and mix together to make new makeup

1930 – 1940 How to Save Money in The Great

Depression

Betty Davis Jean Harlow Ginger Rogers

Women in trousers? No way!

Women could be, and were, arrested if they wore pants in public, detained for “masquerading as men.”

“Kindergarten teacher Helen Hulick made Los Angeles court history — and struck a blow for women's fashion — in 1938. Hulick arrived in downtown L.A. court to tesOfy against two burglary suspects. But the courtroom drama immediately shiZed to the slacks she was wearing. Judge Arthur S. Guerin rescheduled her tesOmony and ordered her to wear a dress next Ome. The next day, Hulick showed up in slacks. Judge Guerin held her in contempt. She was given a five-‐day sentence and sent to jail.”

1940 – 1950�The War Years

•  World war two started in 1939 and continued until 1945 •  Was a decade of sorrow, patriotism, but overall hope for the beginning of a

new era. •  Prior to 1942 women were not allowed to serve in the military except as

nurses •  The war was so big that in 1942 The Women's Army Corps (WAC) and

Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Services (WAVES) were established – the government authorized women to serve in the U.S. Navy.

•  Approximately 350,000 women served during the war •  Close to 3 million women joined workers unions during the war. When the

war ended and the men returned to reclaim "their" jobs, many continued their union work and later transitioned to women’s organizations.

•  1941 - Wonder Woman made her debut – providing a vision of strength, intelligence, and patriotism. From the very beginning Wonder Woman was a feminist, encouraging girls to believe they could be as successful as a man.

CC41 -‐ “Civilian Clothing 1941”

The symbol was used in BriOan to show that something lived up to BriOsh Governments raOoning regulaOons and money-‐saving efforts. It appeared on clothing, footwear and furniture. These items were cheaper to buy as they were tax-‐free. Many 1940’s girls didn’t want anyone to know they were wearing CC41 clothing, so they cut their labels out. Now it is rare to find garments with these labels because of this. Austerity regulaOons allowed for heels that were a maximum of two inches high.

“Civilian uniform” eg Utility Dresses were made to be durable and affordable, not fashionable.

Lack of materials meant women needed to be creative. They repurposed old clothing, bedsheets and other scrap materials with patterns so their wardrobes weren’t so monotonous. Make Do and Mend - pamphlet issued by the British Ministry of Information in 1942. Provided housewives with useful tips on how to be both frugal and stylish in times of harsh rationing. Readers were advised to create pretty ‘decorative patches’ to cover holes in warn garments; unpick old jumpers to re-knit chic alternatives; turn men’s clothes into women’s; as well as to darn.

•  LipsOck -‐ Many women would melt down the ends of their old lipsOcks, and repack them in a single case.

•  Shampoo •  Knihng wool was raOoned •  Powder compacts were also hard to find – as the powder came in metal cases, which weren’t being produced during the war.

1940 – 1950�What did women go without?

Government advertising to recruit women to the workforce

High Waisted Bikini became a thing in 1946 – fabric rationing meant they cut the one piece in to two sections to save fabric in the midsection If World War Two never happened, you might still be wearing one piece swimsuits!

Crop Tops also emerged as a beach wear trend for the same reason. Didn’t become popular day wear until the late 60’s / 70’s.

1943 -‐ The All-‐American Girls Professional Baseball League founded. 1993 film “A League of their own” based on this.

Katherine Hepburn. •  Not related to Audrey Hepburn (22 years

older.) •  The Tilda Swinton of the 1930’s and 1940’s •  Hollywood actress – in lots of 1930’s – 1950’s

films. •  Known for challenging the norms. •  Had very masculine characteristics, and was

never considered ‘sexy’. •  Was often told by film directors to be more

feminine. •  One of the first women in the spotlight to

frequently wear trousers.

You asked …

•  When did women start showing their belly buRons in bikinis?

•  When did trousers become acceptable for women to wear?

•  Why did Vogue get stopped in France? •  Did women wear makeup during WWII

A french designer did design a bikini in 1946 which showed belly buRon and lots of thigh – but no one wanted to wear it. The designer himself said it "reveals everything about a girl except for her mother's maiden name.”. It even became banned in some countries. It didn’t really become popular unOl the sixOes. Lots of beach themed movies came out with girls in bikinis, and the song “itsy bitsy teeny weeny yellow polka dot bikini” came out too. In 1962 Playboy magazine featured a model in a bikini for the first Ome. By 1965 most young women were wearing bikinis, older women / mothers were sOll wearing the 1950’s style two pieces.

Q. When did bikinis that show the belly button come in?

Q. When did trousers become acceptable for women to wear?

It’s complicated! Depended on country, situation, age of women etc. •  1939 - Vogue first pictured a woman in trousers. •  In the 1960s, André Courrèges introduced a slim leg

trouser for women. •  For a period in the 1970s, trousers became quite

fashionable for women. In the United States, in 1972, dress codes for schools no longer said girls must wear dresses. (This is in mufti schools)

•  Hillary Clinton was the first woman to wear trousers in an official U.S. First Lady portrait (1993)

•  Women were not allowed to wear trousers on the U.S. Senate floor until 1993.

Q. What did women wear in the military?�(remember they were only allowed in the Navy – not army or airforce yet.�

Not allowed in combat until 1990’s in US)�

Yes, it was just harder to find and more expensive. It was actually encouraged – as it was thought to ‘boost morale’. The ideal look at the time was natural but glamorous - eyeliner, mascara, thick brows with an arch, and red lips. Turns out the turbans and head scarves were a practical thing – with shampoo being scarce, it was a way of disguising a bad hair day.

Q. Did women wear makeup during WW11?

Germans suspended the publication of it in 1940 for 4 years. German government took over Paris for part of WW2 after the German soliders defeated French soldiers in the area … and so all radio, newspaper, magazines etc contained German propaganda.

Q. Why was Vogue stopped in France?

1947 – Christian Dior releases his “New Look”.

•  After WWII ended, French designer Christian Dior was keen to revive Frances international presense in the fashion industry.

•  The New look was known for full-skirts, waspy waists and soft shoulders. •  After wartime rationing, designs that used metres and metres of fabric could

be designed once more. •  After the war women were encouraged to become homemakers once again,

moving out of the workplace, and therefore the feminine, flowery and certainly impractical nature of this fashion was positively encouraged in Western countries.

•  Some women really resisted this fashion trend as they sore it as male designers pushing them back into their pre-war lives at home – being the ‘perfect housewife’.

•  On the flipside however, this look did reunite women with everything they had missed during the war – elegance and femininity

He also used in-‐built padding around the hip and shoulder areas to create the silhoueRe. A throw back to the 1900’s maybe??

Although Dior used a slightly masculine edge, as it was popular in the 1940s, he wanted to veer away from this and encourage women to embrace more feminine styles again – he was parOcularly fond of the 1930s version of femininity in fashion. He claimed that he wanted ‘to bring back beauty, feminine clothing, soZ rounded shapes and full flowing skirts’.

AZer his iniOal 1947 collecOon, Dior became much more extreme in his designs as raOoning and the war became a distant memory he used fabric in excess and his styles oozed opulence.

1940 – 1950�The War Years

Films you may have seen 1940’s fashion in … •  The Notebook (1940s and 1950s) •  The Aviator (1927 – 1947) •  Pearl Harbour

New Look inspired fashion today?

1950 - 1960

What fashion NOW do you think might have got its inspiration

from the 1950’s?

1950’s Vogue Video Questions

•  The 50’s was the golden age of … ? •  What were some of the big names of

fashion design, which rose to fame in the 1950’s?

•  What two ‘looks’ / shapes were in fashion?

•  Other than corsets and gurdles – how did women achieve the ideal shape?

1950’s Vogue Video Questions

•  Haute Couture •  Balmain, Balenciaga, Dior, Givenchy,

and Chanel •  ‘New Look’ Hour Glass and ‘Glove

Fitted’ Slim Line •  Dieting

1950 – 1960�What was going on?

•  After the great depdression and WWII, many Americans were looking to build an “American Dream” lifestyle

•  Marriage and homeownership rates skyrocketed •  Women are no longer children or adult – teenagers emerge. •  Rock and roll influence – music, fashion, lifestyle. •  The contraceptive pill starts trialling phase (not introduced until

60’s) •  Acrylic, Polyester, and Spandex invented. New fabrics = new

fashion. Easier to take care of, and cheaper to buy. •  Conformity, Conservatism, Consumerism •  Shopping became a part of peoples lifestyles •  “Reducing” (dieting) became popular •  There was a huge emphasis on manners, and “appropriate

behaviour” •  Beginning of the fast-food craze •  Televisions made their way in to homes

•  To conform to strict gender roles – ie; be the doting housewife – have dinner on the table when he arrives home. Have the children fed already. Have the house clean.

•  To attend work events with husband and make him look good. (Led to a rise of cocktail dresses)

•  Look thin, healthy, and feminine •  Always look put together

1950 – 1960�What was the role of women?

•  ‘The New Look’ (1947) continues throughout the 1950’s •  Two main sillhouettes – hour glass and slimline •  Hour Glass – Large bust, slim waist, wide hips. •  Hour glass garments – circle skirts, poodle skirts, •  Slimline – More narrow and straight through the hips. •  Slimline Garments – pencil skirts, wiggle dresses

1950 – 1960�What did fashion look like?

The star of the 1950’s

Started to be acceptable to wear trousers and shorts! Still taboo to wear on TV, in fashion magazines, outside of the home other than the beach. Two Styles;��Capri pants �Cigarette pants�

Cigarette Pants�� •  high waist •  wide waistbands •  slim fitting through the legs •  ended just above the ankle. •  usually plain black

1950’s inspired fashion today

Where you might have seen 1950’s fashion

•  Walk The Line •  My Week with Marilyn •  Gangster Squad •  Grease •  West Side Story •  Happy Days •  I love Lucy

WELCOME TO THE SIXTIES

1960 – 1970 The Swinging Sixties

•  Who were some of the 1960’s style icons? •  What kinds of trends and shapes were in at the Ome?


•  Penelope Tree, Jane Birkin, BrigiRe Bardot, Catherine Deneuve Francoise Hardy

•  A-‐line, Spage Age, clean lines, shiZ dresses, maximum impact – mini proporOons, exposed bodies.

A-LINE

SHIFT DRESSES

SPACE-AGE

SPAGE AGE

EXPOSED BODIES

JANE BIRKIN Actress and Singer (English and French) Hermès handbag named after her (made for her in 1984) Would have been 19 in 1965

PENELOPE TREE English Fashion Model Would have been 16 in 1966 when her modelling career took off Moved in with a photographer 10 years older than her at the age of 17

BRIGITTE BARDOT French actress, singer, model, dancer Would have been 31 in 1965 Became famous in the 50’s

TWIGGY English model, actress, singer. Real name Lesley Hornby Would have been 16 in 1966 when named “Face of 1966” Considered one of the worlds first supermodels

1960 – 1970 What was happening at the time?

•  Civil Rights Movement •  “BriOsh Invasion” – Twiggy, The Beatles, ‘Mod’ •  New Technology = stretch fabric •  Social Change and Freedom •  The Pill = freedom for women. Illegal in some states in America.

•  Sex outside of marriage became more normal and accepted.

•  Space race / Moon Landing

1960 – 1970 What was the role of women?

•  Things started changing for women, YAY! •  More women were entering the workforce •  They were fighOng back agaisnt unequal pay, and sexual harassment in the work place.

•  An equal pay law passed in 1963 in the US. •  Many women, both married and single, were on the contracepOve pill. Gave them more say over what happened to their own body. Less pressure to be married before sex.

•  Feminism was on the rise •  Lesley Gore sang “you don’t own me”

1960 – 1970 What was happening in fashion?

•  Mini skirts •  Bell sleeves •  Floral PaRerns •  Geometric paRerns •  Bright Colours •  Coloured Stockings •  Novelty dresses made of paper, metal, plasOc •  FuturisOc looking fashion •  Bowl Cut style hair cuts and bobs •  Bouffant Hair

TV and Film set in the 60’s

•  Breakfast at Tiffanies (1961) •  Factory Girl •  Barbarella •  Mad Men •  Moonrise Kingdom •  AusOn Powers •  The boat that rocked •  Hairspray •  Dreamgirls

BIKINIS! Lots of people in warmer climates were gehng private pools in their home. The song "Itsy Bitsy, Teenie Weenie, Yellow Polka Dot Bikini," was wriRen in the 1960’s.

THE PSYCHODELIC SEVENTIES

Guess which items are 70’s inspired 1 2 3 4 5

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1970 – 1980 What was going on at the time?

•  Political awareness and liberty of women continued to grow. •  People started to become concerned with the environment

and humans impact on it. •  1979 – first British female Prime Minister •  1973 “Battle of the Sexes” tennis match – Billie Jean King vs

Bobby Riggs. He believed he could beat any female player. Riggs was known for saying mysoginistic things like “the best way to handle women is to keep them pregnant and barefoot.” Billie Jean King beat him in front of 30,000 spectators.

•  Gay movement makes a leap forward. People start ‘coming out’ – eg Andy Warhol and Freddie Mercury. Harvey Milk runs for loval office.

1970 – 1980 What was life like for women?

•  Womens rights continued to improve •  Women now able to apply for higher paying jobs that once

were available only to men •  Women can continue working when they became pregnant •  Divorce rates rise – in 1969 California is the first state to

pass a ‘no-fault’ divorce law (until then, a wife would need to prove her husband had cheated / done something terrible to be allowed a divorce)

1970 – 1980 The subcultures

•  Hippy movement •  Disco movement •  Punk movement •  Glam Rock movement

1970 – 1980 DISCO

1970 – 1980 GLAM ROCK

1970 – 1980 HIPPIES

1970 – 1980 PUNK

1970 – 1980 What did the fashion look like?

•  Bohemian, Free-flowing •  Eclectic fashion – lots of

mixing and matching of styles

•  No rules •  Influenced by other cultures

– tribal, indian, •  Wrap Dresses •  Maxi Dresses •  Platform shoes (even for

men!) •  Jumpsuits •  Bell Bottom Jeans •  Floppy Hats

•  Crop Tops •  Paisley •  Hot Pants •  Tie Dye •  Crochet, Lace, and Macrame •  Fringing and Tassels •  Pant suits •  Overalls

Diane Von Furstenberg made her iconic wrap dress in 1974. She set out to create a relaxed dress that would suit all womens body shapes. She was declared the ‘most marketable designer since Coco Chanel.’ By 1976 Diane had sold over 5 million of the dress worldwide.

1970 – 1980 Where you might have seen it…

•  Saturday night Fever •  That 70’s Show •  Almost Famous •  Anchorman •  American Hustle •  Forrest Gump •  Boogie Nights •  Dazed and Confused •  Starsky and Hutch •  Charlies Angels (the original) •  The Brady Bunch

ALL OF THEM! 1 2 3 4 5

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fashion history 1900 - 1980

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