86FASHION FEATURE

UnderConstruction

Would you ditch your staple skinny jeans for an original fit? As more women start to make the switch, we take a closer

look at the rising trend of 2016.

By Susan Devaney

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Freedom. That’s what women wanted from a pair

of jeans. Think Thelma and Louise taking on the

highway, decked out in high-waisted Levi’s and motif

tees (and obligatory branded leather cowboy boots)

or Jane Birkin in sky blue versions and a plain white

cotton t-shirt. Understatedly cool. The original denim

dream consisted of rigid, 100 per cent cotton denim

– no lycra, no stretch. Since Kate Moss donned

her stretchy spray-on skinnies over a decade ago,

women briskly turned their backs on the once-loved

androgynous style. So quickly did they make their

way up to the top of the denim charts that we lost

sight of real denim? Instead, we embraced the skinny

for what it was – an imposter, but one that created

the likeable illusion of a lean figure for all.

However, a proper pair of jeans can be a friend for

life. How many pairs of skinnies have you loved and

lost throughout the past decade? “The best benefit

of a pair of non-stretch jeans is that they’re built

to last and they’ll improve along the way. A good

pair of real jeans will be with you for life – the odd

rip and patch only enhances its character, which is

a rare thing in modern day fashion,” says Samuel

Trotman, Denim Editor at WGSN. “While a pair of

rigid, unwashed jeans may be a tough thing to get

used to after years of elastane stretch against your

skin, the rewards will be worth it once you’ve given

them their six-month gracing period (with no wash).”

Yeah, that’s right, true denim needs to be broken in.

But, the rewards will be fruitful when they’ve moulded

to your shape, and achieved their ‘hold’ (a.k.a a

pert-looking behind). “One thing every denim lover

says they love about their jeans is how they mould to

you and tell a story through the fades. You can only

achieve this through breaking in a raw pair of jeans.

If you’re not into 100 per cent cotton non-stretch,

there are comfort stretch raw fabrics on the market

that will give you an added bit of ease before you

commit to the real deal,” says Sam.

What’s the fit to wear now? “Women are looking

for those truly authentic looking jeans, but with a

contemporary look and fit. Think hip-hugging, high-

rise fits with hems cropped above the ankle or slim-

fits that have been opened up at the hem to create

a modern micro kick flare,” advises Sam. A daily

dose of inspiration is constantly streaming on social

media channels, with hashtags like #janebirkindaily,

We may be delving into sartorial archives, but this new denim appreciation is a completely fresh approach.

#levis and #debbieharry generating millions of hits,

especially after the summer music festivals taking

place across the world. It’s evident that we’re turning

to long-standing style icons for encouragement,

and dependable, old-school brands like Levi’s and

Wrangler for a good fit. Do you remember Debbie

Harry’s beloved stone-washed Levi’s 505s? We may

be delving into sartorial archives, but this new denim

appreciation is a completely fresh approach. Denim

is being deconstructed for 2016 thanks to emerging

labels. The real denim revolution happening now is

not simply about adopting a throwback look, it’s

fashion’s youth who are leading the pack. Designer

Demna Gvasalia (a Maison Martin Margiela alumnus

and newly appointed creative director of Balenciaga)

started the cult Parisian label Vetements (it translates

to ‘clothing’ in French) to go against the old in

creating the new. In doing so, they’ve created one

of the most in demand pair of jeans of the season.

“We founded Vetements because we simply wanted

to make clothes for our friends, girls we know. It’s a

brand that makes clothes, inspired by clothes. There

are no seasonal themes, we always work with the

existing wardrobe and every season try to give the

garments we like a new shape, concept and frame,”

Gvasalia told MOJEH in August last year. Within Pho

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obvious that jeans are taking on a new shape for the

future. “The women that are adopting the raw jean,

archival look, I think are tapping into a more lifestyle

driven trend: Caring where things are made, by whom

and how. It’s mostly the Millennials who are getting

in on this vibe. And yes, personally I think this will

mean a long-term lifestyle shift, not a quick flash

trend,” says Amy Leverton of Denim Dudes. Like the

rest of the buying habits of consumers across the

fashion industry, attentions are turning to ethics and

commercialisation. “Women are starting to care more

where their denim comes from and are going back

to a more archival denim look…My thoughts are that

we are coming into a long phase of ‘being yourself’

of wearing what you want to wear and being true to

yourself. That makes it harder for brands because

they are trying to be everything to everybody, but for

consumers, it means less rules,” says Amy.

We’re welcoming less rules, and looking for the

personal touch instead. Before you start to wear

in your brand new pair of Levi’s, the brand is now

offering a bespoke service to help you get the perfect

fit, tailoring a brand new pair of jeans to your exact

body shape. “We will be launching a campaign a bit

later in the year which talks to the 501 fit and Levi’s

being the original blue jean,” says Simone Fichtl,

Brand Manager for Levi’s in Africa and the Middle

East. But are consumers searching for something

even more personal? “Buying from a small, artisanal

brand is far more rewarding because the brand

is small, they can give you the personal touch.

Recently, I bought unisex jeans from a guy called

Evan Kinori in San Francisco. I went to visit his

studio, talked with him and hung out for like four

hours,” says Amy. “There’s a lot of big brands out

there I adore but you simply cannot say the same

when you buy something from a chain store.”

With celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Amber Heard

and Caroline de Maigret achieving the new look

with ease, this boy-fit denim is one for everyone

to give a go – and why not? If it means we’re

conscientiously looking for jeans that are built

to last and love for a long time, it can only be a

(really) good thing, as we take back that l ived-

in and locked-in feel ing. Unlike our sl imming

skinnies, in a decade’s time from now, we’ll sti l l

feel the freedom of our love-worn original f it.

days of being stocked by luxury online retail site

Net-A-Porter, Vetements’s reworked vintage jeans

were sold out, and at around AED4,000 a pair –that’s

a heavy price tag for denim. “This is where brands

like Vetements, Redone and Aries are capturing the

market. Each of the styles have that nostalgic feel,

but with an idiosyncratic, asymmetric, DIY finish that

feels completely fresh in today’s saturated denim

market,” says WGSN’s Sam. Aries, a London-based

label, has garnered a whole host of young fans

(who’ve probably never previously owned a pair of

proper denim jeans) by sticking to simple cuts and

delightful patches. Their ‘Lilly style’ is apparently

still produced in a mill using pebbles to stonewash

the denim. Does it get more authentic than that?

But they’re not the only ones.“Other brands to look

out for are MiH, Simon Miller and Brock Collections

– they’re also hitting the trend with their authentic

styles,” Sam concludes.

There’s a strong rock ‘n’ roll attitude to the emerging

names and the women who are already tackling the

new trend head on. During fashion week season,

throughout the months of February and March,

street style stars took on the look with aplomb.

From cropped cuts with distressed hems to high-

waisted silhouettes in a series of blue shades, it was

From cropped cuts with distressed hems to high-waisted silhouettes in a series of blue shades, it was obvious that jeans are taking on a new shape for the future.

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