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YES WE ARE AMONGST YOU

ALL WE NEED IS A LITTLE MORE ACCEPTANCE

Fashion Orientation

Submitted to Krishna Kumar Sir

Submitted by Divya.M

MFM/14/301 – Semester 1

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Contents

Sl No Index Page No

1.

Main Stream Fashion

1-1

2.

Subculture

1-1

3.

Distinguishing between Subculture and Mainstream

2-2

4.

Introduction to Cross-dressing

3-4

5.

When does it all begin?

5-6

6.

Psychology behind Cross-dressing

6-7

7.

Fashion Life Cycle of Cross-dressing

7-7

8.

Ideology behind Cross-dressing

8-10

9.

Male Dominance in Cross-dressing

11-11

10.

Recent Examples on Celebrity Cross-dressing

12-14

11.

Role of Society

15-15

12.

Conclusion

15-15

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Mainstream Fashion

Mainstream is what’s the new trend is. When one "style" gets old, a new one is reborn,

and a mainstream person is someone who jumps from trend to trend so that they fit in

with the rest of the crowd. Mainstream is being what society thinks you should be, and

look like.

Subculture

Human beings have always used appearances as personal advertising – an approach to

exhibit who we are and where we are at. As the world grows ever more complex and

fragmented, the importance of appearance grows even greater: visible differences and

similarities facilitating interaction and relationships. Hence the INDIVIDUALITY

appears, where the STYLE originates, which creates the importance of AUTHENTICITY

and continuous as a SUBCULTURE with similar minded people.

In sociology, anthropology and cultural studies, a subculture is a group of

people with a culture (related to clothing or music) which differentiates

them from the larger culture to which they belong.

A subculture is a group of people within a culture that differentiates

themselves from the larger culture to which they belong.

It may be difficult to identify certain subcultures because their style

(particularly clothing and music) may be adopted by mass culture for

commercial purposes. Businesses often seek to capitalize on the subversive

allure of subcultures in search of cool, which remains valuable in the

selling of any product.

The study of subcultures often consists of the study of symbolism attached

to clothing, music and other visible affectations by members of subcultures,

and also the ways in which these same symbols are interpreted by members

of the dominant culture.

According to Dick Hebdige, members of a subculture often signal their

membership through a distinctive and symbolic use of style, which

includes fashions, mannerisms and argot.

In his 1979 book Subculture: The Meaning of Style, Dick Hebdige argued

that a subculture is subversion to normalcy. He wrote that subcultures can

be perceived as negative due to their nature of criticism to the dominant

societal standard; subcultures bring together like-minded individuals who

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feel neglected by societal standards and allow them to develop a sense of

identity.

Distinguish between Subculture and Mainstream

It may be difficult to identify certain subcultures because their style (particularly clothing

and music) may be adopted by mass culture for commercial purposes. Businesses often

seek to capitalize on the subversive allure of subcultures in search of Cool, where they

use it in merchandises, people who would like to follow such cultures but cannot due to

various reasons, this is the best get away for them and they buy the merchandise, it’s a

win win situation for both business organizations and customer. This process of cultural

appropriation may often result in the death or evolution of the subculture, as its members

adopt new styles that appear alien to mainstream society.

Ken Gilder proposed to distinguish subcultures from countercultures based on the level of

immersion in society. Gilder further proposed six key ways in which subcultures can be

identified through their:

Often negative relations to work (as 'idle', 'parasitic', at play or at leisure,

etc.)

negative or ambivalent relation to class (since subcultures are not 'class-

conscious' and don't conform to traditional class definitions)

association with territory (the 'street', the 'hood', the club, etc.), rather than

property

movement out of the home and into non-domestic forms of belonging (i.e.

social groups other than the family)

stylistic ties to excess and exaggeration (with some exceptions)

Refusal of the banalities of ordinary life and massification.

Music-based subcultures are particularly vulnerable to this process, and what may be

considered a subculture at one stage in its history such as jazz, Goth, punk, hip

hop and rave cultures, may represent mainstream taste within a short period of time.

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Introduction to

Cross - Dressing

“Why would men

want to wear clothing

of the opposite sex?"

"Are these men

perverted, or crazy?"

"Are they gay?"

Thousands of men

worldwide are, at this very

moment, putting on their

pantyhose, dresses,

makeup, and high heels, trying to look as pretty and as feminine as they can. The sight of

a grown man wearing a dress, in many societies is considered odd, or unusual, and may

even be a cause for ridicule. They are neither perverted, nor crazy. These individuals

could be your next door neighbor, your boss, or even your brother. The man sitting next

to you at church could be wearing garter belt under his clothes for all you know.

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Cross-dressing is actually quite common, but it is

most often done in private or as a secret that is

hidden from others. But now, more and more

men are "coming out" and dressing "en femme."

In fact, there are conventions where males of

different ages and backgrounds, get together to

enjoy the freedom of dressing and socializing as

females. These conventions may draw hundreds

of cross dressers.

Self-identified cross-dressers generally

do not have fetishistic intentions, but

are instead men who wear female

clothing and often both admire and

imitate women.

The history of cross-dressing and trans gendering has highlighted both the numerous

instances of individuals who dressed as the opposite sex and the multiple reasons for

doing so. In the eighteenth century, there were numerous tales of female soldiers and

sailors who enlisted and had long-successful careers in male guise. Their motives were

varied from those who enlisted as it paid better than female occupations, to those for

whom it was the only way to follow a male lover, to those who wished to fight for their

country. There were often very practical reasons for donning male clothes with women,

finding that being a lone woman was an unwelcome prospect and that male clothes

offered a degree of protection against rape, seductions or other forms of violence. Also

the cross-dressing should not be confused with Japanese cross-dressing as they mainly

deal with prostitution.

Being prevalent in various parts of the world, existence of cross-dressers

can be traced long back but it was not established as a culture but they

did it for various reasons like protection, work etc. And most of them

being secretive where their motive was well hidden.

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When Does it All Begin?

Many believe that cross dressing desires can be

recognized at a very young age. Indeed, many

cross dressers report their earliest memories of

cross dressing to be from the pre-adolescent

years. Painting fingernails, dressing in female

underwear and trying on high heeled shoes are

all acts that form the basis of many stories. Most

cross dressers also recall memories from the

teenage years.

This can be an extremely challenging time for

any adolescent, but perhaps even more so for a

cross dresser. Being pulled in two different

directions causes much confusion in the mind of

a youngster.

Whilst the teenager can see physical

changes that confirm his masculinity,

his feminine desires are likely to raise

many questions.

Amidst the abundance of hormones, a cross dressing teenager's desire to find his true self

often emerges during this time. In the main, this is done behind closed for fear of being

caught and ridiculed. Social and peer pressures often force a cross dresser to comply with

a 'macho' image. Not wanting to be isolated or bullied, it is common for boys to deny

their feminine urges and play along with the masculine stereotype. While all appears to

be well from the outside, the reality is quite different. Society is generally unsympathetic

to issues such as gender identity, so the teenager often has little choice but to fit the

mould until he has the confidence to do something about it. In reality, the vast majority of

cross dressers don't fully acknowledge their cross dressing desires until later on in life.

Cross dressers don't just wake up one day to find that they have an

urge to dress in women's clothes. So, when does it all begin?

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Remember, cross dressers are happy with their masculine traits. The

only thing that makes them different to any other man is that they like to

express the female side of their personality by dressing as a woman.

This may only happen every now and again. Only a small percentage choose to be en-

femme all of the time.

Psychology behind

Cross-dressing

Why would men do this, you

might ask?

Important reason for cross-

dressing is that men want to feel

free to express the feminine side of

their personality. Self-identified

cross-dressers generally do not have

fetishistic intentions, but are instead

men who wear female clothing and

often both admire and imitate

women. Boys are commonly

socialized to believe that they

cannot portray feminine traits. They

can't cry, appear weak, or be soft.

Males who dress in female clothing

often feel liberated to express their

emotions that perhaps, they are not

able to freely express as

themselves. For at least a few

moments, they can shed the burdens

and responsibilities of being a

"man." Often, this results in

feelings of comfort, and reduced

stress. Men wear dresses because it

feels good.

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Second reason for cross-dressing is one that is not often expressed, but it is to feel

and experience the "power of a woman." What power is this? It is the power of a

beautiful woman to be able to turn the heads of all the men as she enters the room.

It is the power to choose who will get their attention. They see themselves as

having a male side and a female side, and they believe their male side was turn-on

by their female side. They see themselves as having two people, one male and one

female inside themselves. It is about the meaning associated with the clothing and

using that association as a means to establish an identity and sense of self

independent of that which has been assigned to us by society.

Unfortunately, in many societies cross-dressing, especially male to

female, is often still a taboo. A man wearing a dress or other feminine

attire in public is often the subject of ridicule

Fashion Life Cycle of Cross-dressing

Cross-

dressing

has

reached

the

growing

stage in

Fashion

Life Cycle.

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Ideology behind Cross-dressing

-Young

72 year old man Cross-dressing to look

young

-Feminine

Model trying to feel feminine and

comfortable by Cross-dressing and

wearing a skirt

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-Individualism

Varied personalities

show their

individualism

through the choices

they make via

clothing,

accessories, makeup

etc.

- Stylish

Expressin

g oneself

through

emotions

influencin

g varied

styles.

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-Aesthetic

Aesthetic appeal makes them feel sexy and attractive.

-Enjoyment

Many Cross dressers come

together to celebrate their

culture and uniqueness

which gives them happiness

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Male dominance in Cross-dressing

It is influencing male cross dressing than female because females have

already adapted the style of trousers, shirts etc. that is male attires which

very well accepted in the society.

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Recent Examples on Celebrity Cross-dressing

Here’s a visual from Dolce & Gabbana where celebrity Cross - dressing

model, Andrej Pejic, shocked and awed the world into believing he was

a woman, when in fact, he’s man.

These days, it seems

women can be men

and men can be

women and people

are either hideously

insulted or

appreciative of the art

form. There’s no

denying that the

shock factor of this

new look is sure to

boost awareness, and

in turn, sales.

Andrej Pejic who is

the first ever cross-

dressing male model

to cover

Elle magazine. The

Serbian born model

has made some

serious fashion

statements and

consequently racked

up a number of high

profile shoots,

namely for Jean Paul

Gaultier

The January issue

of Serbian Elle break

s the boundaries of

gender and celebrates

fashion at its most.

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Andrej Pejic, who is the first ever cross-dressing male model to cover

Elle magazine. The Serbian born model has made serious fashion

statement Cross-dressing.

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John Travolta Cross-Dressing which is not for a movie and it also

convinces that the actor is a big fan of Cross – dressing

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Role of Society

Subcultures can be perceived as negative, due to their nature of criticism to the dominant

societal standard; subcultures bring together like-minded individuals who feel neglected

by societal standards and allow them to develop a sense of identity.

Youth subcultures have been described as a moral problem that ought to be handled by

the guardians of society. British youths are labeled as troublemakers by members of the

dominant culture.

The act of cross-dressing was a challenge to the status quo, destabilizing

the gender norms so central to cultural hierarchies.

It is done behind closed for fear of being caught and ridiculed. Social and peer pressures

often force a cross dresser to comply with a 'macho' image. Not wanting to be isolated or

bullied, it is common for boys to deny their feminine urges and play along with the

masculine stereotype. While all appears to be well from the outside, the reality is quite

different. Society is generally unsympathetic to issues such as gender identity, so the

teenager often has little choice but to fit the mould until he has the confidence to do

something about it.

Like any other subculture society criticized for cross dressing as well. In

fact the criticism for more because it shook the ethical morals of the

society and blurred the line between feminity and masculinity.

Conclusion

In reality, the vast majority of cross dressers don't fully acknowledge their cross dressing

desires until later on in life. Remember, cross dressers are happy with their masculine

traits. The only thing that makes them different to any other man is that they like to

express the female side of their personality by dressing as a woman. This may only

happen every now and again. Only a small percentage choose to be en-femme all of the

time. It is the purpose of this choice of Subculture to create acceptance, and to portray

cross-dressing as a normal practice that occurring throughout the world and in many

cultures. Cross dressing as a culture is still evolving.