FASH 15 textiles

basic weaves & fabrics

basic weaves & fabrics

a fabric is a pliable, planelike structure that can be

made into 2- or 3-dimensional products that require

some shaping & flexibility

fabric quality describes many characteristics:

• freedom from defects

• uniform structure & appearance

• production performance

• consumer performance

important to textile producers, designers, retailers &

consumers

woven fabrics

made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at

right angles

warp yarns—yarns in lengthwise direction (ends)

filling yarns—yarns in crosswise direction (weft)

common characteristics: • made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles

• many different interlacing patterns give interest and texture to fabric

• yarns can be raveled from adjacent sides

• fabrics have grain

• fabrics are relatively stable, with little stretch in warp or filling

the loom

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqjhvOuKLR8&NR=1

hand looms http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLNalNO2yTg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

air-jet loom http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgLstMHhLfY

rapier loom http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOY_dhy8AQ0&NR=1

projectile loom http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3vjBYID0fc

circular loom http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFFCAa1QHH4

characteristics of woven fabrics

warp & filling differentiation • selvage is always parallel to lengthwise direction (warp)

• most fabrics have a lower elongation in warp direction

• warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel in the fabrics because

of loom tension

• fancy or special-function yarns are usually in the filling direction

• fabric characteristics may differentiate between the warp and filling

directions—EXAMPLE: poplin has filling rib; satin has warp floats

• warp yarns tend to have higher twist & are similar and more uniform in

structure and appearance

• fabric crimp is usually greater for filling yarns since they must curve

over or under warp yarns due to

loom operation

• warp yarn count tends to be higher

than filling yarn count

• if yarn-dyed stripes are in one

direction only they tend to be in

the warp direction

characteristics of woven fabrics

grain—geometry or position of warp yarns relative to

filling yarns

• on-grain fabric has lengthwise grain parallel to

warp yarns & crosswise grain parallel to filling

yarns

• off-grain fabrics create problems in production &

use—do not drape properly or hang evenly and

printed designs are not straight

characteristics of woven fabrics

fabric count—

• number of warp and filling yarns per square inch

• indication of quality—higher count, better quality

balance—

• ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in fabric

• balanced fabric 1:1

selvage—

• lengthwise self-edge of a fabric

• formed differently on different looms

characteristics of woven fabrics

fabric width—

• loom determines fabric width

• handwoven—narrow (27-36 inches)

• commercial—exceed 60 inches

• consumer market—45-60 inches or 54-60

fabric weight

• describes how much a given area or length of

fabric weighs

• important—identify appropriate use & name • lightweight/top weight—weigh < 4.0 oz/sq yd

• medium weight—4.0-6.0 oz/sq yd • heavyweight/bottom weight— weight > 6.0 oz/sq yd

naming & diagramming woven fabrics

fabric names are based on:

• fabric structure

• fabric weight

• yarn type

• yarn balance

• finishes

plain weave

• simplest of the three basic weaves

• formed by yarns at right angles passing alternately

over and under each other

• least expensive weave to produce

• no technical face or back unless printed

general characteristics:

• tend to wrinkle easily

• less absorbent than other weaves

• raveling less of a problem

• yarn type greatly influences

these characteristics

CREATE A PLAIN WEAVE

balanced plain weave

• simplest plain weave • warp & filling yarns are same size & same distance apart

• wider range of end uses than fabrics of any other weave

• most widely used type of woven fabric

• can be made in any weight

lightweight sheer—georgette, chiffon, voile, organdy, organza

lightweight opaque—lawn, batiste, China silk, habutai, challis

medium-weight—percale (calico, chintz, cretonne, polished cotton, glazed chintz)

muslin, flannelette, outing flannel, gingham, chambray, madras, pongee,

honan, ripstop nylon, ripstop taffeta, true crepe

heavyweight—weaver’s cloth, homespun, crash, butcher cloth, burlap,

hessian, osnaburg, flannel, tweed

unbalanced plain weave

• significantly more yarns in one direction than the

other

• creates rib—ridges of varying size depending

upon number & size of yarns

lightweight ribbed fabrics—crepe de chine

medium-weight ribbed fabrics—broadcloth, taffeta,

shantung

heavyweight ribbed fabric—poplin, faille, rep, bengaline,

ottoman, grosgrain, bedford cord

basket weave • made with two or more adjacent warps and two or more

fillings

• interlacing pattern similar to plain—two or more yarns

follow same parallel path

• most common are 2x2 or 4x4 • variations include 2x1 and 2x3

fabrics that have a basket weave: • dimity

• oxford cloth

• sailcloth

• duck

• canvas

• hopsacking

• monk’s cloth

twill weave

• each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the

right or the left

• forms a distinct diagonal line or wale

• can be made on a simple loom

• have technical face & back—face has most pronounced wale

• fewer interlacings allow yarns to

move more freely

• softer, more pliable & recover

better from wrinkles • soil shows less on uneven face

of twill weave than plain weave

CREATE A TWILL WEAVE

even-sided twill weave

• expose an equal amount of warp and filling yarn

on each side of fabric

• reversible

• even-sided twill weave fabrics: • foulard or surah

• serge

• twill flannel

• sharkskin

• herringbone • houndstooth

warp-faced twill weave

• have predominance of warp yarns on face

• stronger & more resistant to abrasion & piling

• warp-faced twill weave fabrics: • lining twill

• denim • jean

• drill

• covert

• chino

• gabardine • cavalry twill

• fancy twill

satin weave

• each warp floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the 5th filling yarn with a progression of interlacings by two

to the right or the left

• can be produced on simple loom

• lustrous because of long floats on surface

• yarns can be packed very closely together • face & back look significantly different

• high count gives strength, durability, body, firmness, wind

repellency

• fewer interlacings gives

pliability and wrinkly resistance, but yarns may snag, slip or

unravel easily

CREATE A SATIN WEAVE

satin weave

satin weave fabrics—

• satin—warp faced (warp floats cover surface),

filament yarns

• crepe-back satin—crepe yarns give softness &

drapeability

• sateen—spun yarns, come in filling sateen & warp

sateen