Fall-Winter 2014-15Elegance Meets Femininity

COLORS COMBINE & CONTRAST Autumn winter ‘14-15 is where elegance meets femininity. Purple and black become the primary colors. They are complemented by pine green, pastel gray-blue and a leather tobacco brown. Colors joyously reflect the season’s energy.

COLORSMuted ReflectionThis key color group showcases purple and mauve combined with different shades of gray and sparkling silver. These are shown in cold, sophisticated harmonies for very modern, geometrical designs or extremely refined scenic paints with a Japanese influence.

The perfect follow-up for last season’s berry and oxblood tones are the purples with pink which are used in velvets, rich pile and furry textures.

BiscuitA soft and warm harmony made up of caramel-like tones. Mixed with a rich harmony based on red, orange, and off-white, for a sumptuous blend of intoxicating colors in sophisticated woolen weaves.

GlacialA rich harmony of colors in purple, turquoise, and grayish blue with light and dark grays in woolen weaves, along with a silver or white creates a cold, frosty mood.

These grays are sometimes highlighted by a sharp accent of dazzling blue or purple to update a classic suit or dress.

Warm EnergyBurgundy is warmed up with tones of saffron yellow, orange and black for a modern day casualwear influence. Dark colors mixed together for a smart scholastic mood.

Novelty

Tones of burnt orange and blue offer a strong contrast for a soft, slightly nostalgic mood. Tones of burnt orange, blue and yellow are also in the mix.

UrbanDifferent shades of gray blended with mousy brown look sharp with accents of lime green. This color combination offers a relaxed masculine influence to a new urban sportswear look. Soft and gentle hues are washed and glazed, building up in diluted layers or blurring into one another.

The consumer’s taste for green is strengthening—summer and winter.

Winter BlazeSeveral shades of brown and black mixed together with duck blue and grays wich gives an extremely modern look. These warm, intense colors update classic suiting fabrics when used in regular proportions or indeed, become totally stunning when traditional prints are distorted into bold graphic designs.

FABRICSAt first glance, this looks very much like a wool season – whether in super groomed noble fiber blends, new styled tweeds or furry and hair coatings. However, it is also a season of embracing the technical with woolens and cottons with new technical treatments.

• Then there is the pure technical with many new, soft sculpted shapes and bonded fabric qualities plus serious experimentation with digital printing. • Modern open work designs are crated with the latest laser techniques. • Complex coatings and weaving techniques create some amazing illusions such as plain plastic that look like sheet of metal. • Fine voile is worked with fancy backgrounds or entirely different textures. • Suiting fabrics are created from plain gray to modern metallic forms.

Undoubtedly, this season, fabric trends seem to focus on innovation.

WOOLENSThis season’s woolens offer the pure sophistication of a humble and utilitarian feel. These newest fabrics have the look of clay with grainy and raw textures. For dresses and elegant suits, this season offers silk satins and noble woolens.

CUDDLY CHICWeightless volume in soft luxurious fleeces and fur touch fabrics. Wool blended with angora and alpaca for the soft and furry, teddy bear feel, and mohair blends for the warm and voluminous. Pale pastels and skins add to the stroke me, caress me feeling of the look

CHECKSThe womenswear love of checks and plaids continues. They can be clean cut, brushed and hairy or boucle based. They can be American frontier, couture chic, or Scottish. It doesn’t matter so long as they are freely thrown together in unexpected and even unsightly clashes.

Traditional tartans, hound’s tooth, and tweed are revived from pure classic to contemporary remakes.

SMOOTHBoxy shapes are carefully constructed in compact and sculptural materials. Pure plains have a matt optic, felt touch or a smooth subtle polish.

CHUNKY WOVENSChunky and compact wovens are key for creating supersized and blown up outfits. That includes obvious textures, extremely raised motives, and 3D sculptural with braided and knotted textures. Double layers allow for soft, foamy structures, whereas the technical foam backs form extremely modern graphics designs.

RITZY FABRICSWhat could be more reassuring and protecting than the softness and the warmth of furs. Long-pile furs and animal motifs such as leopard and tiger characterize the look.

NEW MATERIALSCoating and weaving techniques have become so sophisticated that they create some amazing illusions. The result is fluid and sensual, clinging and sexy like wet fabric, or softly flowing like whipped cream. Some fabrics look like sheets of metal while flat surfaces almost look like holograms. Supple fabrics magnify the body for both evening and day wear.

STURDY LEATHERSSturdy leathers have laminating finishes that are shaped like body shields and magnify the silhouette. These leathers are used for extreme weather conditions. Gold dusted leather and gold lame’ array themselves next to ornamental rivets, metallic applications, and reptile surfaces. The choice of fabrics may sound cliché, but the contemporary interpretation makes them exciting and wearable.

When rivets and studs are applied to traditional wools, they seem to bring strength to a rather classic item.

WINTER WHITEThe world is obsessed with white and even though it is unanimously agreed to be a difficult sell in winter, its presence is very much here. Winter whites run from simple strong statements in wool, wool/alpaca and wool/angora with brushed and furry coatings through boucle knits, 3D effects, hairy/cloudy looks, ending with snow-like fabrics.

DENIMDenim is a perennial constant in our clothes. The newest denim look is the continued use of colored denim fabric. Treatments on blue denim include bleached wash with highlight sandblasting, construction with metallic threads, and staining with laminated color prints, on an all-over pattern.

PRINTSCreative photo prints and layered motifs reveal a different unique look for a finished design. Other prints chase each other like watercolors on silk fabrics that seems as if it has been personalized.

FUN AND PLAYFULOffbeat palette mixes, such as, Barbie furs, cut up graphics, plasticized furs and molded vinyl, turn them into something fun and playful. The preferred wild contrasts will demand some creativity from the wearer since the surprise is all in the mix. It’s all about taking active sportswear concept but pushing the limits with youthful designs.

SILHOUETTES AND STYLING Winter 2014-15 is a season to play with fabric in three dimensions on more simple silhouettes. Curves and roundness envelop the body in strong head-to-toe color. Lengths are limited from just above the knee to mid-calf; nothing too short and nothing too long.

Coordinating layered outfits, square shaped jackets, short and simple coats, bomber styled jackets, tapered pants, pleated or pencil skirts, long tunics, sweatshirt tops, jacket and skirt/pant combos, are some of the many shapes that special fabrics made possible.

EVENING FABRICS Delicate smocked chiffon, silk, lace, shiny sequins, ornamental rhinestones lend to this theme.

Feathery surfaces are frequently found in the evening segment as accents and the entire surface of dresses, skirts and tops.

Jacquards for evening that are made with lasers, make each fabric a small work of art in the classic jacquards and tapestries resulting in wonderful noble decorative motifs.

FLARED SKIRTSFlared skirts have been in the spotlight for a few seasons. This season, the swirling, bias cut is even fuller with well-fitting waists from mid-thigh to mid-calf lengths. Made in suiting fabrics with a heavy hang that allows for inserts of pleats and gored effects.

PENCIL SKIRTSPencil skirts in knee or mid-calf in lengths, with slightly softened waistline, are made in suiting fabrics to coordinate with jackets or sweaters. These creative pencil skirts and styled with seams to make a distinguished look.

LOOSE MASCULINE PANTSLoose pants have become an alternative to straight or slim fitting pants, allowing for a fitted bodice that is enhanced by the soft fabric of the pants. The waist is slightly lowered, the hips are full and the hem is large or narrow in at the shoe.

SHORT WINTER PANTSOnce again these Bermuda shorts are back in the spotlight. The “skirt-shorts” are seen on this season’s runway. Lengths may vary between mid-thigh and knee length and remain full and comfortable, made in men’s suiting fabrics and wool crepes.

Also seen are jogging pants for the more casual looks.

BLOUSON JACKETS This season, blouson jackets came to the fore-front. The shape remains moderate. The short blouson jacket is matched with a skirt or pants in the same fabric for a blouson/dress combination.

SWEATSHIRTReal or fake fur, fluffy knits, imitation skin, sheepskin, …all the varieties are appropriate for those thick and cuddly sweatshirts. The shapes remain simple and straight or slightly fitted to maintain a light and puffy second skin.

FITTING DRESSESContinuing from last season, the fitted dresses are made in mixed colors. The seamlines used to introduce visual contrast that reflects colors and light. These dresses work on tight fitting shapes and mid-thigh or knee lengths.

TUNIC DRESS AND OVERBLOUSEThe tunic dress, worn on its own or with matching leggings, is an essential item this season. The tunic dress and overblouse are perfect for using print or mixed fabrics with yoke or finishes.

3/4 LENGTH COATSAn unavoidable combination this winter, long or 3/4 length coats with fur aspects, in straight or flared. The important point being the furry aspects, either in full outfits, in yokes, or finishes along with leather and fur combinations. They could look like a trenchcoat or updated military overcoat that can be belted at the waist.

SHORT JACKETSAn important combination this season the short Spencer jacket that is worn with a little flared skirt or matching dress. The short jacket is fitted with a natural shoulder line that emphasizes the short bodice in lengths that vary between the waist and hip-bone. They are made in men’s suitings, gabardine, or stretch wools.

SHORT FUR JACKETSLittle fur jackets are present in all collections, ranging from boleros to short retro jacket, to the short Spencer jacket. In long or short haired furs, blends, teddy fur, sheepskin, or a “must have” Persian fur, everything is allowed making this the ideal accessory for the season.

ROUNDED SHAPED JACKETSThis season, the round shape is very important in collections. This shape forms a round line at the shoulders, making them almost disappear between the neckline and the sleeve, very similar to the kimono silhouette of the ‘50’s.

EXTREME COSINESSVery simple, basic jackets in full, generous volumes are shown in extremely soft and cuddly blanket fabrics. They are made in basic sportswear styles with a 50’s influence or masculine styles in round or kimono shapes.

QUILTED JACKETSFur and quilt combinations are perfect for this season, either in a traditional manner by combining fur with quilted pieces. On many designs, like the denims, digital prints, were used on this quilted looking jacket.

EVENING DRESSESThe new romantic ultra feminite look is the unrestrained evening gown.. The perfect evening dress this season has thin straps, slightly fitting or multiple layers with lengths that vary from mid-thigh to above the knee. Made in fine, sensual fabrics that are sometimes even transparent and are worn over a lace short bodysuit.

EVENING PANT SUITThis season, the evening also has a more casual look with a pant suit that is composed of a jacket and straight or more fitting stretch trousers The trousers are with or without marked pleats. For this evening look, use matte/shiny fabrics or a shiny print.

PRESENTED BY:Connie CrawfordFashion Patterns by ConiDesigner for Butterick PatternsAuthor for Fairchild Publications

Fashion illustrations: Fashion Trends Predictive Winter 14/15, published by Branche & Business, Fachverlag GmbH, Dusseldorf, Germany; Textile Report Winter 14/15, France; Textile View magazine, Metropolitan Publishing BV, SaxenWeimarlaan 6, 1075 CA Amsterdam, The Netherlands, info@view-publications.comNext Look Womenswear Trendbook, Autumn/Womter 2014/2015, Germany

ACCESSORIESBook bags and belt bags complement the newest styles.

Maxi-sized shoppers and fabric “sport bags” lend the clean silhouettes a young charming note.

Leather clutches are seen in many different sizes. The reduced shape is enhanced by laser cutting or structured surfaces. Leather gloves.

In this winter, hats are back big-time: with reimagined classics such as bowler or home.

SHOESShoes mostly sport high heels 80’s style pumps in reptile pumps step out beside metal-adorned boots and booties.they are extremely ornamental or noble.

Modified lace up pumps and heeled loafers associate with traditional slub scarves.