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FIGURE 1

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

designed by Karen DeSousa

As you make this project, you may find the occasional Twin bead with only one hole. If you do, discard them or set them aside to use in the fringe.

stepbystepCrown[1] On a comfortable length of condi-tioned thread (How-Tos), pick up a repeating pattern of three 110 seed beads and a Twin bead a total of 12 times. Sew through all the beads again to form a ring, leaving a 4-in. (10 cm) tail. Tie the threads with a square knot (How-Tos), and end the tail (How-Tos). This is the base round.[2] Sew through the next four beads to exit a Twin bead. Sew through the other hole of the Twin so your thread changes direction (figure 1, a–b). Pick up a 4 mm pearl, and sew through the remaining hole of the next Twin (b–c). Repeat this stitch to add a total of 12 pearls (c–d).[3] Pick up two 110s, a 2 mm round

crystal, and two 110s, and sew through the next Twin (figure 2, a–b). Repeat this stitch to complete the round, and step up through the first two 110s and 2 mm added in this round (b–c).[4] Pick up three 110s, and sew through the next 2 mm (c–d). Repeat this stitch to complete the round (d–e), and sew through the beadwork to exit a middle 110 in a group of three 110s in the base round (figure 3, point a).[5] Pick up 12 110s, and sew through the middle 110 your thread just exited, sewing in the same direction as before (a–b). Pick up a 4 mm pearl, and sew through the last seven 110s added, the middle 110 in the base round, and the following 110, Twin, and two 110s (b–c).[6] Pick up nine 110s, sew through the third and second beads (in that order) from the previous ring, pick up an 110, and sew through the 110 in the base round (figure 4, a–b). Pick up a 4 mm pearl, and sew through the last seven 110s in the ring around the pearl, the

Festooned in beaded finery, this frothy ornament cover is like the best fairy tale heroines — gorgeous, stronger than she looks, and a tad outrageous.

Twin beads give this ornament cover strength and style

Fairy DAISY CHAIN / NETTING / FRINGE

FIGURE 4

30 mm twisted bugle bead

10 mm crystal pear-shaped drop

6 mm crystal pearl

4 mm crystal pearl

4 mm bicone crystal

2 mm round crystal

Twin bead

110 seed bead

110 cylinder bead

150 seed bead

ornament

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©2012 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.

Latticework, like a laced-up bodice, adds an unexpected element to this lush ornament cover.

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middle 110 in the base round, and the following 110, Twin, and two 110s (b–c).[7] Repeat step 6 until there is a space for one more pearl. End and add thread (How-Tos) as needed.[8] To add the last pearl, pick up an 110, and sew through the corresponding two 110s around the first pearl (figure 5, a–b). Pick up six 110s, and sew through the corresponding two 110s around the previous pearl (b–c). Pick up an 110, and sew through the middle 110 in the base round. Pick up a 4 mm pearl, and sew through the middle two 110s of the group of six just added (c–d). Do not end the working thread; set the crown aside.

Belly band[1] On a comfortable length of condi-tioned thread, pick up a repeating pat-tern of a Twin bead and two 110s a total of three times, and then pick up four 110s. Sew through all the beads again to form a ring, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail, and tie the threads with a square knot. Sew through the first Twin, and position the beadwork so that the second Twin is at the top of the ring. [2] Pick up a 6 mm pearl, and sew up through the first hole of the opposite Twin and down through the remaining hole (figure 6, a–b). [3] Pick up six 110s, a Twin, two 110s, a Twin, and two 110s, and sew down through the hole of the Twin your

thread just exited (b–c). If desired, sew through the new ring of beads again to reinforce. Pick up a 6 mm pearl, and sew up through the first hole of the opposite Twin and down through the remaining hole of the Twin (c–d).[4] Repeat step 3 twice (d–e). The Twins at the top of the rings will be anchor points for the latticework that you will complete later.[5] Work as in step 3, but replace the second Twin with two 110s (e–f). Repeat this step three times to add a total of four rings without a Twin at the top.[6] Repeat steps 3–5 until you have 23 rings. Three sections will have Twins at the top of the ring and three will not.[7] To complete the band, pick up six 110s, and making sure the band isn’t twisted, sew through the remaining hole of the end Twin in the first ring. Complete the ring without picking up a Twin at the top. End the working thread and tail.

ConnectorsThe connectors join the crown to the belly band, and they also serve as additional anchor points for the latticework. End and add thread as needed as you work.[1] With the thread remaining from the crown, exit the middle two 110s at the bottom of a ring, with the thread passing through the beads from left to right.

[2] Pick up an 110, a Twin, and seven 110s. Sew through the two 110s your thread exited at the start of this step to form a new ring (figure 7, a–b). Pick up a 4 mm pearl, and sew through the fifth and fourth beads (in that order) added in this step (b–c).[3] Repeat step 2 (c–d) to add four more rings. [4] To attach the connector to the belly band, first identify a Twin on the belly band that connects a ring without a top Twin (on the left) to a ring with a top Twin (on the right). [5] Pick up four 110s, and sew through the 110 directly above the right-hand hole of the connecting Twin on the belly band. Pick up an 110, and sew through the corresponding 110 above the left-hand hole of the Twin on the belly band (figure 8, a–b). Pick up four 110s, and sew through the two 110s in the previous ring (b–c). Pick up a 4 mm pearl, and sew through the three 110s above the connector Twin on the belly band (c–d). [6] Sew back through the connector to the crown, firming up the rings in the connector if needed. Sew through the crown to exit the two bottom middle 110s two rings over from the connector just completed (figure 9, a–b).[7] The next connector needs to have the Twin beads on the left edge. Pick up seven 110s, a Twin, and an 110, and sew through the two 110s in the crown your

FIGURE 5

FIGURE 7 FIGURE 8 FIGURE 9

FIGURE 6

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thread just exited. Pick up a 4 mm pearl, and sew through the sixth and fifth beads (in that order) added in this step (b–c). [8] Repeat step 7 to add four more rings with left-facing Twins.[9] Work as in steps 4 and 5 to attach this connector to the belly band, making sure you attach it at the next point between a ring with a top Twin (on the left) and a ring without a top Twin (on the right). Sew back through the connector to the crown, and sew through the crown to exit the two bottom middle 110s two rings over from the connector just completed.[10] Repeat steps 2–9 twice. Do not end the working thread.

LatticeworkThe latticework is done between the connectors, within the area bordered by Twin beads. End and add thread as needed as you work.[1] Place your beadwork on an orna-ment that you don’t mind getting scratched. This will allow the beadwork to hang properly.[2] Sew through the beadwork to exit the crown one bead to the left of the middle two 110s along the bottom of a ring between two sets of facing Twin beads. Your needle should be pointing to the left (figure 10, point a).[3] Pick up two 110 cylinder beads, and sew down through the remaining hole of the top-left Twin bead (a–b). [4] Pick up two cylinders, a 2 mm round crystal, and two cylinders, and

sew down through the remaining hole of the next Twin (b–c). Repeat this stitch three times, but in the second repeat, pick up two cylin-ders, a 2 mm, and three cylinders and in the third repeat, pick up three cylinders, a 2 mm, and three cylinders (c–d).[5] Pick up three cylinders, a 2 mm, and three cylinders, and sew through the remain-

ing hole of the next Twin along the belly band,

passing through the bead from left to right (d–e).[6] Pick up four cylinders, and sew

through the remaining hole of the next Twin in the belly band (e–f). Pick up two cylinders, a 2 mm, and two cylinders, and sew through the next Twin (f–g). Pick up four cylinders, and sew through the next Twin (g–h).[7] Pick up three cylinders, a 2 mm, and five cylinders, and sew back through the 2 mm added in step 6 (h–i). Pick up five cylinders, and sew up through the bottom left-hand 2 mm (i–j).[8] Pick up five cylinders, a 2 mm, and five cylinders, and sew back through the 2 mm added in the previous step (j–k). Pick up three cylinders, and sew up through the remaining hole of the nearest right-hand Twin (k–l). [9] Pick up three cylinders, a 2 mm, and five cylinders, and sew back through the 2 mm added in the previous step (l–m). Pick up five cylinders, and sew up through the next left-hand 2 mm (m–n).[10] Pick up five cylinders, a 2 mm, and five cylinders, and sew back through the 2 mm added in the previous step (n–o). Pick up three cylinders, and sew up through the remaining hole of the next right-hand Twin (o–p).[11] Pick up three cylinders, a 2 mm, and four cylinders, and sew back through the 2 mm added in the previous step (p–q). Pick up four cylinders, and sew up through the next left-hand 2 mm (q–r).[12] Work as in steps 10 and 11 twice, decreasing the number of cylinders as shown (r–s).[13] Pick up three cylinders, a 2 mm, and three cylinders, and sew back through the 2 mm added in the

DESIGNER’S NOTE:It’s easy to adapt this project to suit your preferences or bead stash. Don’t have 30 mm bugles? Substitute one or more shorter ones. Can’t find pear-shaped drops? Use any top-drilled briolette or teardrop. Want to save money? Substitute 110 cylinders for the 2 mm crystals or shorten the fringe.

materialswhite/gold ornament cover• 25⁄8-in. (6.7 cm) diameter glass ball ornament (Rabbit Hollow Creations, www.rabbithollowcreations.com)• 43 30 mm twisted bugle beads (crystal AB; www.shipwreckbeads.com)• 46 10 mm crystal pear-shaped drops (crystal AB)• Swarovski crystal pearls (white) 153 6 mm 103 4 mm • 129 4 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, crystal AB)• 60 2 mm round crystals (Swarovski, crystal AB)• 30 g Twin beads (silver-lined crystal)• 8 g 110 cylinder beads (silver-lined gold)• 15 g 110 seed beads (crystal AB)• 5 g 150 seed beads (silver-lined gold)• nylon beading thread, size D, conditioned with beeswax or microcrystalline wax• beading needles, #12

bronze ornament colors:• 9 mm bugle beads (Toho 221, bronze) (in place of 30 mm bugles)• 11 mm briolettes (Swarovski, bronze shade) (in place of 10 mm drops)• 6 mm and 4 mm Swarovski pearls (antique gold) • 4 mm bicone crystals (Thunder Polish, black diamond AB)• 2 mm round crystals (Swarovski, crystal AB)• Twin beads (crystal bronze lined)• 110 cylinder beads (Toho Aiko 271, inside-color tan/dark amber)• 110 seed beads (Toho 279, light topaz gray lined)• 150 seed beads (Toho 378C, Montana color-lined metallic antique gold)

FIGURE 10

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previous row (s–t). Pick up two cylinders, and sew up through the remaining hole of the next right-hand Twin (t–u).[14] Pick up two cylinders, and sew through the 110 to the right of the two middle 110s in the crown ring (u–v).[15] Pick up two cylinders, and sew back through the 2 mm in the previous row (v–w). Pick up two cylinders, skip two 110s along the bottom of the crown, and sew through the following 110 (w–x).[16] Sew through the next six 110s along the bottom of the crown (x–y). [17] Pick up 11 110s, a 10 mm drop, and a cylinder. Sew back through the 10 mm, and pick up 11 110s. Skip the next eight 110s along the bottom of the crown, and sew through the following 10 110s (figure 11).[18] Repeat steps 3–17 twice. End the working thread.

Fringe[1] Add a new thread to the far-left ring in a group of four rings in the belly band. Sew to the bottom edge of the band, and exit the second 110 from the connector Twin with your needle pointing to the right (figure 12, point a). [2] Pick up six Twins, a cylinder, a 6 mm pearl, a cylinder, a 4 mm bicone crystal, a cylinder, a 30 mm bugle bead, a cylinder, a 4 mm bicone, a cylinder, a 6 mm pearl, a cylinder, six Twins, a cylinder, a 4 mm bicone, a cylinder, a 4 mm pearl, a cylinder, a 6 mm pearl, two cylinders, a 10 mm drop, and two cylinders. Sew back through the last 6 mm pearl, the rest of the fringe beads, the 110 in the belly band, and the next three 110s to the right (figure 12, a–b).[3] Work as in step 2 to add a second fringe to the same ring in the belly band, and sew through the belly band to exit the second 110 from the connector Twin in the next ring (b–c).

[4] Repeat steps 2 and 3 to add two fringes to each of the next two rings. In the last ring in this set of four, work only the first fringe. Omitting the final fringe in each group of four rings prevents the fringe from bunching up below the connectors.[5] Repeat steps 2–3 to add seven fringes to each four-ring section of the belly band. End and add thread as needed.

Final touch[1] Add a new thread to the belly band, and exit the right-hand hole of a Twin in the belly band with the needle pointing up. Pick up 10 150 seed beads, and sew through the adjacent pearl from right to left (figure 13, a–b). Arrange these beads to arch over the top of the pearl. [2] Pick up 11 150s, and arrange them to arch below the pearl. Sew through the upper arch beads, and continue through the lower arch beads, and then sew down through the left-hand hole of the following Twin bead and up through the right-hand hole (b–c).[3] Work as in steps 1 and 2 around the band, and end all remaining threads. Place the ornament cover on the final ornament. w

Karen DeSousa is the owner of Accent Bead Design and has written seven beaded ornament books. She has also writ-ten three kumihimo books and is the creator of the Kumihimo To Go brand of braiding products. Her books and products, including kits for this ornament cover, can be found at www.accentbead.com and www.kumihimotogo.com.

FIGURE 13

FIGURE 11

FIGURE 12