fabric quality assurance
TRANSCRIPT
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FABRIC QUALITY ASSURANCE
SIGNIFICANCE OF TEXTILE TESTING
To determine the suitability of a fabric for a particular end use which
is also the primary concern to both the buyers and sellers of textile
products.
The type of yarn used plays a signicance role in determining the
quality of the fabric.
The quality of yarn is improvised by improving the various properties
of yarn like yarn count, twist and GS etc depending on the end use.
IMPORTANCE OF TESTING
!esearch and development to enable new and desirable textile
products to be produced.
"roduct performance and evaluation to determine if the fabric is
suitable for the intended end use.
#uality control to ensure that the fabric will be made properly and
e$ciently. Thus claims and returns will be minimi%ed.
"roblem analysis to determine why a fabric or textile product is not
performing as desired
"roduct comparison to determine which material would be the bettervalue and to prevent wasteful buying.
"roper advertising to enable ads to be truthful and not misleading or
false
&dherence to government regulations so that the textile product can
be sold without violating any laws.
TEXTILE TESTING
DEFINITION:
't is used to determine whether or not a product complies with orperforms in a specied manner in relation to a standard or other
requirement.
Standard atmosp!r!
(ecause of the important changes that occur in textile properties as the
moisture contest changes, it is necessary to specify the atmospheric
conditions in which any testing is carried out. Therefore a standard
atmosphere has been agreed for testing purposes and is dened as a
relative humidity of )*+ and a temperature of -
-
. /or practical
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purposes certain tolerances in these values are allowed so that the testing
atmosphere is !4 )*+5 +, - 5 -.
TYPES OF TEST MET"ODS
P#s$%a& t!sts:These tests are mainly physical or mechanical in
nature and includes breaking strength, abrasion resistance, 6 pilling
propensity.
C!m$%a& T!sts: hemicals are used includes ber identication
using the solubility method, detection of antibacterial activity of
fabrics,6 determination of the presence of merceri%ation in cotton
fabrics.
T!sts to d!t!rm$n! %o&or'astn!ss prop!rt$!s: These tests are
used to determine the resistance of fabrics to color change under
various conditions, includes colorfastness to sunlight, washing,6
crocking.
Opt$%a& T!sts:& microscope or another magnifying device is used,
includes grading of wool bers, ber identication of textile defects.
FORMAT OF TEST MET"ODS
Test name 67or 3umber 0esignation
Scope
0enition of terms
&pparatus 6 aterials
Test Specimens
Test "rocedure
8valuation7alculation of !esults
!eport
3otes
P"YSICAL TESTS
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TYPES OF P"YSICAL TESTS
0urability test
/riction test
&ppearance test
/unctional test
DURABILITY TEST
!8&S93S T9 &!!: 9;T 0;!&('
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Tensile strength is the resistance of a material sub>ect to tension by an
external force.
& testing machine used for tests where a pulling force is exerted on
the specimen is called tensile testing machine.
8ach machine has ? basic elements of strength testing machine@
loading mechanism, clamping mechanism, recording
mechanism.
There are ? testing machines@
onstant rate of traverse A!TB
onstant rate of extension A!8B
onstant rate of load A!
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The breaking strength test is performed on most woven, non woven
and felted fabrics. 't is not recommended for knitted material since
they elongate easily, with the specimen becoming distorted.
This test can be performed with either wet or dry condition
TEST MET"ODS FOR FABRIC BREA)ING STRENGT"
Grab test
!aveled strip test
ut strip test
odied grab test
GRAB TEST
This method is used to determine the e=ective strength of the fabric
when in use, and not the strength of the yarns actually grippedbetween the clamps.
This test has the advantage of fast specimen preparation.
RA,ELED STRIP TEST
This can be useful for comparing the e=ective strength of yarns in
the material with their strength before being woven into the fabric.
DETERMINING FABRIC BREA)ING STRENGT" - ELONGATION
!eference@ &ST 0C)D
&pparatus 6 aterials
C. Tensile testing machine
.
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Sp!%$m!n Pr!parat$on
"repare ve fabric specimens for warp tests 6 ve for lling tests for each
method indicated below@
A+ Gra. T!st M!tod
C. ut specimens D inches F inches, with the longer edge in the
direction to be tested
B+ Ra/!&!d Str$p T!st M!tod
C. ut specimens D inches CH inches, with the longer length in
the direction to be tested.
. /or each specimen, unravel to exactly a CEinch width.
T!st pro%!d0r!
C. "roperly prepare the testing machine for the grab method.
. "roperly position the specimen in the clamps 6 the chart in the holder.
?. 9perate the testing machine, obtaining a loadEelongation curve on the
chart.
F. 0etermine the fabric breaking strength 6 the elongation from the
chart.
*. !eplace the chart 6 the tested specimen.
). !epeat the procedure for the other specimens for the grab test
method.
I. "roperly prepare the testing machine for the raveled stripe test method
using larger si%e >aws.
D. !epeat the test procedure used for the grab test method.
J. alculate the average fabric breaking strengths 6 percent elongations
for both methods.
DATA AND RESULTS:
/abric identicationKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK
Tensile testing achine typeKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK
achine capacity Albs.BKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK
BREA)ING STRENGT":
T!st No+ GRAB L&!"1&.s+2
MET"ODFILLING1&.s+2
RA,ELED3ARP 1&.s+2
MET"ODFILLING1&.s+2
C
?F
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*TOTALA,ERAGE
"8!83T 8
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C. T93G;8 8T490
. "830;
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*. alculate the average fabric tearing strengths
T!ar$n* str!n*t
Capa%$t# o' t! ma%$n!4444444444444444444444
S+No+ 3arp5str!n*t *ms 3!'t5str!n*t *ms
C*Tota&
A/!ra*!
BURSTING STRENGT" TEST
(ursting strength is the force needed to rupture a fabric by distending
it with a force applied at right angle to the material. (ursting strength
is an alternative method of measuring strength in which the material is
stressed in all directions at the same time and is therefore more
suitable for such materials.
This is especially desirable for materials such as knits, laces and
nonwovens. There are also fabrics which are simultaneousl stressed
in all directions during service, such as !arachute fabrics, "lters, sacks
and nets, where it ma be im!ortant to stress them in a realistic
manner. # fabric is more likel to fail b bursting in service than it is to
break b a straight tensile fracture as this is the t!e of stress that is
!resent at the elbows and knees of clothing.
This test has application in testing woven fabrics that are to be
stressed equally in every direction when in use.
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T6o M!tods:
0iaphragm (ursting ethod
(all (ursting ethod
B0rst Str!n*t T!st!r &STE0C-, T&""'ETTF-?, P'SE
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T!st Pro%!d0r!: D$apra*m B0rst$n* M!tod
C. "repare the bursting tester.
. "osition the specimen over the rubber diaphragm 6 close the clamp so
the fabric is held securely.
?. Start the tester. Lhen the specimen bursts, stop the machine
immediately.
F. !ecord the gauge reading. This is the total bursting pressure.
*. 9pen the clamp 6 release the specimen pressure on the diaphragm.
!ecord the new gauge reading. This is the tare pressure.
). !emove the tested specimen 6 deOate the diaphragm.
I. !epeat the procedure for the other specimens.
D. alculate the specimen bursting strength
J. alculate the average fabric bursting strength.
Data and R!s0&ts: D$apra*m B0rst$n* M!tod
Fa.r$% $d!nt$=%at$on4444444444444444444444444444444444444
Ma%$n! %apa%$t# 1ps$244444444444444444444444444444444444
TEST NO+ Tota& pr!ss0r!1ps$2
Tar! pr!ss0r!1ps$2
Sp!%$m!nB0rst$n*str!n*t 1ps$2
C?F*
T9T&usted to give a pressure drop across the fabric of C-mm
head of water and the air Oow is then measured using a Oowmeter.
/ive specimens are used each with a test area of *-Dmm A*.FmmdiameterB and and the mean air Oow in ml per second is calculated from
the ve results. /rom this the air permeability can be calculated in ml per
C-- mmper second.
FUNCTIONAL TEST5 FABRIC DIMENSIONAL C"ANGE
0imensional change is the increase or decrease in the length or
width of a fabric called growth and shrinkage respectively.
'ncrease in dimension s called growth while decrease is called
shrinkage
hange is usually expressed in percentage.
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/abric shrink or grow for various reasons.
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'f 3ew length V 9riginal length then calculated percentage is
growth
'f 3ew length W 9riginal length then calculated percentage is
shrinkage
S"RIN)AGE MAR)ER AND SPECIMEN
DETERMINING FABRIC DIMENSIONAL C"ANGE AFTER LAUNDERING
Apparat0s and mat!r$a&s :
C. &utomatic home washing machine and detergent
. &utomatic home dryer
?. C- inch shrinkage markersF. !estoration apparatus
*. /abric specimens
). !uler
I. Scissors
Specimen preparation
;sing pinking shears to prevent unraveling, cut ? specimens each
measuring C) inches C) inches. 'ndicate the lengthwise direction with
indelible ink. ondition the specimen before testing.
ark the specimen with ink as indicated below. The marks are C-
inches apart and on grain.
M enter measurement
< M
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! M !ight measurement
TEST PROCEDURE "lace the specimen in the washing machine. &dd additional fabrics to
make a FEpound dry load.
Set the machine for the normal cycle. &dd J-g of detergent and start
the machine.
!emove the fabric from washer immediately after completion of nal
cycle. Separate the tangled pieces.
"lace the entire load in the tumble dryer.
!emove the specimen from the dryer and examine them. 'f there areexcessive wrinkles, remove them gently using hand iron.
/or each specimen, measure the distances between the indelible
shrinkage marks.
alculate the average percentage of shrinkage for both the length and
width to the nearest -.*+ .
Data and r!s0&ts:
Fa.r$% $d!nt$=%at$on4444444444444444444444444444444444444444
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3as$n* ma%$n! :
Ma! and mod!&4444444444444444444444444444444444444444444
3as %#%&! 1s!tt$n*24444444444444444444444444444444444444444
3as t$m!44444444444444444 3as T!mp!rat0r!4444444444444444
Dr#!r :
Ma! and mod!&444444444444444444444444444444444444444444
Dr#!r s!tt$n*44444444444444444 Dr#!r t$m!44444444444444444444
Pr!ss$n* m!tod 1$' 0s!d24444444444444444444444444444444444
D$stan%! .!t6!!n sr$na*! mars .!'or! %&!an$n*KKKKKKKKKKKKKK
FABRIC FLAMMABILITY5TEST
/lammability refers burning behavior, specically to ease of ignition
and continued burning after ignition
/abrics can be placed in di=erent categories with regard to
Oammability.
Flammablefabrics will be completely consumed when exposed to re.
'n order to for such fabrics to be nonOammable it has to undergo some
chemical treatment and then called fame retardant abric.
%f the fabric is develo!ed from in&ammable "bres like kevlar ' (ome)
is called fame proo abrics
H5D!*r!! An*&! T!st
The specimen, mounted in a holder,is positioned in a metal cabinet at
a F* degree angle, and ignited with a butane gas Oame for one second.
The ignition Oame is removed and the time for the specimen to burn its
entire length AC*- mmB is recorded.
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T!st no+ Mar!r
&o%at$on
D$stan%!
.!t6!!n
&!n*t
Sr$na*!
mars 6$dt
C enter
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fabric identicationKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK
fabric type Aplain or raised surfaceBKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK
direction of test Alength or widthBKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK
T!st no+ Or$*$na& Cond$t$on A't!r Dr#
%&!an$n*
%od! t$m! T!st no+ %od! t$m!
C
?
F
*
Total Total
&verage &verage
COLOUR FASTNESS - S"ADE MATC"INGCOLOR FASTNESS
"roperty of a pigment or dye to retain its original hue, especially
without fading, running, or changing when wetted, washed, cleanedN
or stored under normal conditions when exposed to light, heat, or
other inOuences.
Fa%tors A?!%t$n* Co&or Fastn!ss
/iber Type
lass of 0ye ;sed
0yeing or "rinting "rocess used
Types of /inishing Treatments ;sed
&ction 9f
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"ossesses a knowledge of dyes and pigments.
4as the ability to evaluate and report color changes.
T#p!s O' Co&or'astn!ss
Ad/!rs! a?!%t!d .#: Lashing
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They equate di=erences in lightness with di=erences in color.
Gr!# s%a&!s 'or sta$n$n*
& di=erent set of grey scales is used for measuring staining
/astness rating is shown by two identical white chips Athat is nostainingB and rating C shows a white and dark chips. The other
numbers shows geometrical steps of contrast between white and a
series of greys.
&piece of untreated, unstained, undyed cloth is compared with the
treated sample that has been in contact with the test specimen during
the staining test and a numerical assessment of staining given.
Grade of *@ no change in color, no staining
Grade of C@ substantially di=erent. 4eavily stained
M!todo&o*# O' T!st$n*
3ormally a multiEbre strip of ) bre components used for staining test@
A%!tat!< Cotton< A%r#&$%< Poam$d!< Po!st!r and 3oo&+
;sually only one specimen of fabric used.
'f material dyed or printed uniformly throughout the fabric, then specimen
chosen should be representative of entire lot.
/or multi 1colored printed fabric, each color should be tested in order to
evaluate every color.
L$m$tat$ons o' Gr!# S%a&!
0isagreement when bright colors are used.
C"ROMATIC TRANSFERENCE SCALE
's used to evaluate fabrics resistance to crocking.
onsists of six sets of color chips.
8ach set is graduated from light to dark with di=erent rating.
L$*t$n* Us!d For E/a&0at$on
Lhen visually evaluating or comparing, standardi%ed light source
should be used.
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't enables specimen to be sprayed with water during the test, if
desired.
't also is able to alternate light and dark periods if continuous light
exposure is not desired.
These conditions are used in the LeatherEoEmeter to test fabric for
such end uses as outdoor furniture, tents or rainwear.
(oth machines have either a carbonEarc lamp or a xenonEarc lamp
as the light source.
The degree of fastness required depends on end use.
&s an example, a coat material should have more color fastness
than a colored dress shirt. Similarly clothes not intended to worn
outside should also have certain color fastness to enable drying in
sunlight.
3EAT"ER5O5METER
3ewer, versatile.
't enables the specimen to be sprayed with water if needed.
't also manipulates the light and dark period if continuous exposure
is not needed.
These make it most suitable for testing fabrics for end uses like
outdoor furniture, tenting or rainwear.Us$n* 3!at!r M!t!r
Two testing methods are used@
Time method
Standard fading method
TIME MET"OD
The specimen is exposed to light for a particular amount of time.
&fter the termination of time the specimen is taken out andevaluated.
Specimen is not exposed to the same amount of light each time the
test is performed.
T!st Pro%!d0r! standard Fad$n* M!tod
Sp!%$m!n Pr!parat$on
ut the specimen .* x D with the longer dimension in lengthwise.
T!st Pro%!d0r!
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ount the specimen in the cardboard holder and remove the
perforated strips so that half of the specimen area will be
uncovered.
'nsert the cardboard holder into the metal holder and place in to the
machine.
8xpose the specimen for - hours.
&t the end of the desired exposure time period, remove the
specimen and allow it to relax in the dark at room temperature for
atleast hours in order to regain moisture from the air.
;sing the grey scale for evaluating colour change, determine the
colour fastness rating for the test fabric.
COLOR FASTNESS TO CROC)ING
The rubbing o= of colors is called as crocking.
/abrics with large amount of surface dyes like dark color cotton
fabric tend to have poor colorfastness to crocking, pigment dyed or
printed fabrics also face the same problem.
Some time in order to increase the depth of the colors the surface
dyes are not washed o= which also results in crocking.
Cro% M!t!r
The crock meter is used to nd the color fastness to crocking.
This instrument has a nger covered by a white cotton fabric whichwould rub against the specimen.
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ut the specimen of R x R
ut the multiber fabric to x inch
PROCEDURE:
'mmerse the test sample and the specimen in the acid solution forC* min.
Lith draw the fabric and remove any excess liquor
"lace the specimen in the perspiration tester
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The specimen is held in such a way that only small portion is
exposed A inchB to rubbing force.
Two abradants are used here.
Em!r# M!tod
more severe test
;sed for garments that are exposed to severe abrasion
resistance for a long period of time.
&lso used for fabrics that have low dye penetration.
TESTING EQUIPMENT
S%r!!n 3$r! M!tod
!esults in mild abrasive action.
& ne wire screen is used and the specimen is placed over a
hard sponge material.
This is used for cross dyed and blended fabrics.
'n crocking test the rubbing cloth is evaluated and in this the
specimen is evaluated
D$?!r!n%! .!t6!!n Cro%$n* T!st and Frost$n* T!st
rocking evaluates the appearance of the specimen
/rosting only evaluates the rubbing cloth, not the specimen.
INFLATED DIAP"RAGM ABRASION TESTER
The specimen is placed between the abradant and the foam.
The table moves to and fro while the specimen is slowly rotated
causing it to rub against the abradant.
SCREEN 3IRE MET"OD
"lace the screen and the specimen in the tester. The specimen ismounted over the foam rubber cushion.
&pply a .* pound load on the head.
Start the tester and allow it to operate for C-- continuous cycle.
Stop the machine and remove the specimen.
/rom this continue as previous method and nd the color fastness.
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TESTING STANDARDS - MET"ODS
/or test results to correlate between laboratories it is essential that each
test conducted is to a standard test method. Test methods used in
di=erent countries have unique identication numbers but are usually
variations on the same basic protocol. the most commonly used test
standards are@
&ST and &&T for ;S&
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&merican society for testing and materials
&merican association of textile chemist and colorist
(S for ;nited Uingdom
&3 for anada
DIN0eutsches 'nstitute for 3ormung @ Germany
P'S for Papan APapan industrial standardB
&S for &ustralia
('S 1 (ureau of 'ndian standard
'S9
83E'S9
&&T 6 &ST are the preferred standards for the 3orth &merican
continent while 'S9 is used for the rest of the world. 'ndividual countries
have derived their own standard methodology but are usually based on
either the 'S9, &&T7&ST or (S test methods. !ecently, with the
8uropean ;nion being formed, a consolidation of all standard methods
used in 8urope is begin done. 'n most cases, common standards are being
evolved which are designated as 83 or 83 'S9. 't is expected that all
8uropean countries adopt these new designated test methods over a
period of time.
ASTM FABRIC PERFORMANCE
SPECIFICATION C"ART
Param!t!rs
M!nKs and
.o#s
S0$t
M!nKs - .o#s
Pa>amas
(reaking strength, lbs F- *:arn slippage, lbs * C*
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Tear strength, lbs .* C*
(ursting strength, lbs EE EE
0imensional change @ after *
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:arn slippage, lbs -ZZ *
Tear strength, lbs ? ?
(ursting strength, lbs EE EE
0imensional change@ after *
launderings
EE ?+
@ after ? dry
cleanings
EE +
olorfastness@ shade change,
original fabric
lass F lass F
Shade change after C laundering lass F lass F
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:arn slippage, lbs EE
Tear strength, lbs EE
(ursting strength, lbs *-
0imensional change@ after *
launderings
?+
@ after ? dry
cleanings
+
olorfastness@ shade change, original
fabric
lass F
Shade change after C laundering lass F
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Sr+ T!st D!s%r$pt$on M$n$m0m P!r'orman%!
Sp!%$=%at$ons
C Tensile Strength AGrabB C* kgf @ Larp 6 Left
Tear Strength School wear @ I--g @ Larp 6 Left
9thers @ *-- g@ Larp 6 Left
? Seam Slippage D kgf at S9 ) mm @ Larp 6 Left
F Seam Strength C- kgf Larp 6 Left
* &brasion !esistance C-,--- rubs
) "illing !esistance Afor
blends onlyB
Shirts 6 School wear @ ?EF @ CD,---
rubs
(louses @ ?EF @
CC,--- rubs
I 0imensional Stability 1
achine wash, /lat 0ry
5 ?.-+
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1In%&0d$n* S6$m6!ar< B!a%6!ar - L!otards2
Sr+ T!st D!s%r$pt$on M$n$m0m P!r'orman%!
Sp!%$=%at$ons
C Stretch 7 !ecovery !esidual 8xtension@ *.- + max. after?- minutes of recovery in length or
width as applicable.
0imensional Stability 1
achine wash, /lat 0ry
E *.- +
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It!m Sp!%$a& R!0$r!m!nts
Garments for &ustralia 'mproved
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The inspection of fabric, madeEup and garments has two primary
functionsN rst to classify the products according to the di=erent
qualities based on the demands of market and customer and second to
provide the information about the quality being produced.
3ormally the three operations such as inspection, mending or repairingof mendable defects and grading are performed in one operation at a
time.
Grad$n* o' D!'!%ts:
The textile products such as fabric, madeEups and garments during the
manufacture may have yarn defects, fabric defects and fabrication
defects due to the various reasons.
The defects depending on the magnitude, frequency of occurrence,
position, importance, e=ect on the purpose, consequences in the
further process, etc., shall be classied and graded under various
systems.
0uring the inspection, the occurrences of various defects need to be
examined and graded based on their magnitude and dimension as per
the required system.
There are di=erent types of systems are widely used for grading the
defect of fabrics
Po$nt Grad$n* S#st!m:
The F point grading system, also called the &merican &pparel
anufacturers &ssociation A&&&B point 1 grading system for determining
fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics
Po$nt A&&o%at$on 'or Po$nt S#st!m
L!n*t o' d!'!%t $n 'a.r$%< !$t!r &!n*t or6$dt
Po$nts a&&ott!d
;p to ? inch C
9ver ? inch, up to ) inch
9ver ) inch, up to J inch ?
9ver J inch F
4oles and openings A
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9ver C inch F
C. 3o linear yard of fabric shall be assigned more than F penalty points,
no matter how bad or frequent the defects are.
. & continuous defect running over J shall be assigned F points for eachyard.
7@ Po$nt Grad$n* S#st!m:
/abric is considered rst quality if the number of defect points is less
than the number of yards of fabric inspected.
'n the case of fabrics wider than *- inch., the fabric is considered rst
quality if the total defects points do not exceed the number of yards of
fabric inspected by C-+ .
Po$nt A&&o%at$on 'or 7@ Po$nt S#st!m
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Ca&%0&at$on:
& fabric roll C- yd long and FD inch width contains the following defects.
an we accept this fabric roll as per F point system[
0efect
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CARE LABELING D!/!&op$n* and E/a&0at$n* Car! La.!&s
are labels are required by the are
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e) 3!ar and T!ar:The abrasion, rubbing and Oexing to which the
textile materials ae sub>ected to, have the e=ect of breaking the
bres or displacing them in the yarn so that the textile materials are
weakened and eventually they are torn.
Sp!%$=% C&!an$n*< Dr#$n* and Stora*! R!0$r!m!nts o' T!t$&!sMad! o' ,ar$o0s F$.r!s:
aB ottons@ 't can be washed in hot water with strong detergent and
can be pressed with hot iron. &s cotton textiles wrinkle easily, they
should be treated with starch prior to ironing. They should be stored
in dry condition only and not in damp condition, to avoid mildew
attack.
b) 3oo&s:Lool should be washed in luke warm water with a mild
neutral sop or mild synthetic detergent. 't should be dried slowly
away from heat. Lool should be preferably ironed on wrong side
with a steam iron or damp cloth. 0ry cleaning is preferred to
washing. Lool fabrics are to be protected against moths and carpet
beetles.
c) S$&s: Silk should be washed only if labeled as QwashableQ.
9therwise it should be dry cleaned. Lashing is done by hand with
lukewarm water with mild soap or neutral detergent. 'roning is done
while damp on the wrong side of fabric. Silks stained by perspiration
should be cleaned at once, since perspiration weakens the fabric.
hlorine bleach is to be avoided. 8xposure to sun light is also to be
avoided. Silk fabrics are to be protected against moths and carpet
beetles.
d) Ra#ons:if the product is labeled washable, it should be washed by
using mild luke warm soap or detergent solution. The fabric is
squee%ed gently and rinsed in luke warm water. The article shoukd
neither be wrung nor twisted. 'roning should be done at moderate
temperature.
e) N#&on+ A%r#&$% and Po!st!r: These fabrics can be machinewashed, tumble dried at low temperature. /abric softener may be
added at nal rinse. 'roning can be done at moderately low
temperatue. /requent machine wash may lead to pilling of polyester
fabrics. Lhite nylin fabrics tend to become yellow or grey. hlorine
bleach should not be used in such cases.
Car! o' 3o/!n< )n$tt!d and F!&t!d Fa.r$%s:
are of fabric also depends upon its construction. Loven, knitted and
felted fabrics need di=erent treatments. /abrics, rmly woven in a
simple weave, is usually easily laundered unless bre or nish prevents
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it. Satin weave fabric should not be washed or dried with anything that
might catch on the long Ooat yarn. Unitted fabric usually resists
wrinkling but the loop on the long Ooat yarn. Unitted fabric usually
resists wrinkling but the loop formation can be distorted in cleaning
unless proper care is given.. Unitted fabrics may preferably be handwashed and should not be hung on the hanger to dry as the weight of
damp cloth may result in permanent elongation of loop structure. ost
of the lace garments do better if dry cleaned or hand washed, since the
intricate design structure may be damaged by agitation during
machine washing. Lhile washing corduroy or velveteen garments, they
should be separated from other items of clothing to avoid lint
accumulation. 3onEwoven fabrics such as felts are not strongly
constructed and may be permanently damaged if improperly cleaned.
True felts are made of wool bres, which shrink when washed and
should be dry cleaned only. Those held by adhesive substance may
disintegrate if cleaning treatement dissolves the adhesive and hence
the label instruction of cleaning must be followed strictly.
(efore making actual purchase of textile product, the consumer should
consider the kind of care the product will require. 'f an article does not
have a right kind of cleaning or care, it may lose its usefulness long
before the owner has received satisfactory monetary value.
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GuT 1 8ssentially a life 1 cycle analy%e protocol for carpets.
OE)O5TEX SC"EME
The various standards set out in the ecoElabeling system, the most
important human ecological standard is the 9ekoETex standard C-- of the
'nternational &ssociation of !esearch and Testing in the eld of Textile
8cology
'n CJD*, the &ustrian Textile !esearch 'nstitute A9T/B published guidelines
on the testing of textiles for toxic substances.
'n CJJ the 9T/ 4ohenstein !esearch 'nstitute set up 9ekoETex. 9ekoETex,
then drew up general conditions for awarding the 93/'0838 '3
T8T'
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CC* 1 Spun bres A:arns, "lyEyarnsB and initial products A
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lass '2 /;!3'S4'3G 1 &rticles, preEproducts and accessories for
decorative purpose such as tableware, furniture coverings, curtains textile
Oooring, mattresses.
T#p$%a& E%o5Param!t!r R!0$r!m!nts 'or T!t$&!s ( Garm!nts
Sr+ It!m P!rm$tt!d &$m$ts ( 0sa*!
C "resence of (anned &mines (elow ?- ppm
"resence of
"entachlorophenol A""B
(aby wear @ -.-* mg7kg
9thers @ -.* mg7kg
? "resence of "olychlorinated(iphenyls A"(QsB
3ot traceable
F "resence of /ormaldehyde 'tems not in direct contact @ ?-- mg7kg
'tems in direct contact with skin @ I*
mg7kg
(aby wear @ - mg7kg
* p4 2alue of &queous 8xtract (etween F.- and I.*
) !esidual "esticidesZ
AtotalB -.* mg7kg Ababy wearB
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C.- mg7kg AothersB
I "resence of 4eavy etals &s detailed separately. ZZ
D hloroorganic arriers 3ot detected
J /lame !etardants 3ot to be used
C- 9dour 3o unnatural odour
CC "hthalates in "2 3ot detected
C T(T, 0(T, (T 3ot detected
C? hlorine (leaching 3ot to be used
Z7ZZ'ndividual limits of 4eavy metals and "esticides are prescribed by
buyers.
N!6 r!0$r!m!nts $n E%o T!st$n*
&s the understanding on harmful e=ects of chemicals grows, new
requirements in ecological parameters are added. hanges and updates in
the specications are done based on this, mainly in the private 8co ersey being sold in Germany a year and a half ago. T(T was used as anantibacterial, to suppress body odour which results from bacterial growth
in perspiration. T(T is known to be a mutagen, causing genetic mutation
in sea snails. This led to many retailers and popular 8coElabels requiring
T(T, 0(T AdibutyltinB and (T AmonobutyltinB to be absent from their
merchandise.
Bann!d Am$n!s:&part form the - banned amines listed in the German
!egulation Aommodities &ctB, four more amines are required to be below
limits@
oEanisidine
pEamino a%oben%ene
.FQ xylidine
.)Q xylidine
A&&!r*!n$% D#!s: "roposed 88 regulation now also lists D disperse dyes
which are to be banned. These dyes are known allergens.
3ickel in accessories @ & new test method, 83 DCC 7 CFI was made
applicable to all metallic accessories used in garments, such as %ips,
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rivets, buttons, embellishments etc. in Pune --- by regulation in
Germany. This test method simulates years of actual use of the article.
Pta&at!s $n P,C:8mbellishments of "2 are expected not to contain
phthalates.
Total Quality Management
TQM refers to activities that involve everyone in organisation in an integrated effort to
improve performance at every level.
The goal of TQM is to maintain the organisations competitiveness in the world markets
TQM PERSPECTIVES ARE
A customer focus
An emphasis on quality
Team work
ndividual empowerment
Training and education
nvolvement of all employees
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!ommitment by management
!ontinuous process improvement
QUALITY IS .the QUALIFIER!
"oing it right first time and all the time. This boosts !ustomer satisfaction immenselyand increases efficiency of the #usiness operations.
!learing the bar $i.e. %pecification or %tandard stipulated) &'cellence that is better than a
minimum standard.
Quality an u"tome# e$%etation"
Quality is also defined as excellencein the product or service thatfulfills or exceeds the
expectations of the customer.
There are 9 dimensions of quality that may be found in products that produce customer(
satisfaction.
Though quality is an abstract perceptionit has a quantitative measure( Q* $+ , & )
where Q*quality +* performance$as measured by the Mfgr.) and & * e'pectations$ of
the customer).
The & 'imen"ion" o( Quality
+erformance- +rimary product !haracteristics
eatures- %econdary characteristics added features
!onformance- Meeting specification or industry standards
/eliability- !onsistency of performance over time average time for the unit to fail
"urability- 0seful life
%ervice- /esolution of problems and complaints
/esponse( of "ealer, Mfgr. to !ustomer- 1uman to human interface
Aesthetics 2 of product- e'terior finish
/eputation( of Mfgr.,"ealer- +ast performance and other intangibles such as being
ranked first
TQM #e)ui#e" "i$ *a"i Cone%t"+
3. Management commitment to TQM principles and methods 4 long term Quality plans
for the 5rganisation
6. ocus on customers 2 internal 4 e'ternal
7. Quality at all levels of the work force.
8. !ontinuous improvement of the production,business process.
9. Treating suppliers as partners
:. &stablish performance measures for the processes.
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E((et" o( %oo# Quality
;ow customer satisfaction
;ow productivity sales 4 profit
;ow morale of workforce
More re(work material 4labour costs
1igh inspection costs
"elay in shipping
1igh repair costs
1igher inventory costs
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Uai%en is a Papanese word. 't means continuous im!rovement !rocess
of creating more value and less nonEvalue adding waste.
Uai%en is not >ust a philosophy of the workplace, it means continually
im!roving in ever facet of life, including business, industry,
commerce, government, and diplomacy, among others.
't involves incremental improvement involving everone.
The improvements are usually accomplished at little or no e)!ense
without so!histicated techni*ues or e)!ensive e*ui!ments.
'f focuses on simplication by breaking down com!le) !rocesses into
their sub+!rocessand then improving them.
Uai%en can be regarded as culture that encourages suggestions by
operators who continually try to incrementally improve their >ob orprocess.
Uai%en helps to achieve process more ecient, e-ective, under control
and ada!table.
Uai%en training has focused on both philosophical and cultural concepts
and is based on the belief that the develo!ment of an individuals skill
bene"ts both the com!an and that individual, and that people
constantly aim for selfEimprovement
The 6ai7en im%#o3ement" (ou" on the u"e o(+
Value-added and non-value added work activities
Muda, seven classes of wastage- over production delay transportation processing
inventory wasted motion and defective parts
+rinciples of motion study and use of cell technology
+rinciples of materials handling and use of onepiece flow
"ocumentation ofstandard operating procedures
0se of 5
Visual Management
!o"a-yo"eto prevent or detect errors
#eam dynamics which includes problem solving communication skills and conflict
resolution
Flo ha#t o( 6ai7en P#oeu#e
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Si$ Sigma
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%igma $@) is
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"efining /oles- This is important to si' sigma. All team members should have a
well defined role with measurable ob>ectives.
Si$ Sigma Methoology
%i' %igma methodology improves any e'isting business process by constantly
reviewing and re-tuning the process.
To achieve this %i' %igma usesa methodology known as$M%&'$"efine
opportunities Measure performance AnalyGe opportunity mprove performance !ontrol
performance).
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0ene
0etermine benchmarks, Set(ase line, 0etermine ustomer
!equirement, Get customercommitment,
ap "rocess /loweasur
e
0evelop defect measurement,0evelop data collection
process, ollect data, reateforms, ompile and display
data
&naly%e
2erify data, 0raw conclusionfrom data, test conclusions,
0etermine improvement
opportunities, 0etermine rootcauses, , ap causes to e=ect
'mprove
reate improvement ideas,reate models, 8xperiment,Set Goals, reate problem
statement and solutionstatement, 'mplementimprovement ethod
ontrol
onitor improvement process,
measure improvementsstatistically, &ssess
e=ectiveness, ake neededad>ustment.
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0PP0RTU-ITIES F0R ERR0R AT VARI0US SI1MA
Number of defects
per million
opportunities for
error
Associated
sigma level
&&$'() *+)
,,$.) *+.
&$,() /+)
($*.) /+.
,** .+)
*, .+.
*+/ &+)
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Loation o( 89"igma
:u"t in Time ;:IT>>
The international 5rganiGation for %tandardiGation $%5) was found in 3C8: in
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&'ternal quality- reduction in customer complaint and return
Time performance- improved on time delivery throughput time
!ost of poor quality- &'ternal nonconformities scarp rework are reduced.
A%%!pta.&! Q0a&$t# L!/!&
Ma>ority of sampling is based on desired achievement of predetermined acceptable
quality level $AQ;).
AQ; is a statistically measure of the consistency or quality predictor of manufactured
goods.
The AQ; is the ma'imum percent defective can be considered as process average for the
sampling purpose.
t is designated value of percent defective that the consumer will accept.
The AQ; may be defined in the contract or established internally.
A certain proportion of defective will always occur in any manufacturing process however if
the percentages doesn=t e'ceed a certain limit it is often more economical to allow the
defective to go through rather than to screen entire lot. This limit is called Acceptable Quality
level.
n other words the ma'imum percent defective or ma'imum number of defects per 3II units
which can be considered satisfactorily as a process average is termed as Acceptable Quality
level.
%ampling procedures are adopted under practical and economic considerations to accept or
re>ect a lot on the basis of the sample drawn at random from the lot. 1ence it is necessary that
a scientifically designed sampling plan is used to provide adequate confidence and protection
to the manufacturer and the customer very economically.
Fo#mation o( lot"
ormation of lots will have to be planed with respect to the following-
a) Type of lot$%tationary lot or moving lot)
b) %iGe of the lot.
c) 1omogeneity of the lot.
d) Accessibility of item in the lot.
a) %tationary and moving lot
n a stationary lot items are presented simultaneously all the sample items may be obtained at
one time in a moving lot as the lot moves past the point of inspection one or a few items are
selected at a time. n many situations stationary lots offer advantages over moving lots.
*< Si7e o( lot
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The general rule in the formation of lots is to make the lot siGe as large as possible provided
that a reasonable degree of homogeneity is maintained. #ut siGe of lot will have to be limited
on account of the following factors-
i) The formation of larger lots may result in the inclusion of items differing more
widely in quality.
ii) The production or supply of material may be such that the accumulation of large
lots will be over a long period.
iii) "ue to shortage of space and handling problems.
iv) The economic consequences of re>ection of larger lots because of the cost of
scrapping the cost of detailed inspection or the cost of reworking them. n
forming a lot therefore compromise is to be made in respect of its siGe.
< @omogeneity o( lot"
As the efficiency of sampling depends on the degree of homogeneity of the lot efforts should
be made not to have a mi'ed lot as far as possible and to confine the lot to materials or
products originating from essentially similar condition.
< Ae""i*ility o( item in the lot
t is also important from the point of view of convenience of inspection that the lot is easily
identifiable and should have easy access to all parts of the lot to select representative sample.
'ete#mination o( "am%le "i7e
t is not possible to have a single rule for determination of the siGe of the sample. The number
of items to be in the sample is dependent on the e'tent of error due to sampling that can betolerated which in turn depends to a large e'tent on the degree of homogeneity of the lot. The
siGe of the lot also comes into picture more from practical consideration than any statistical
reasoning.
or economical inspection of goods a sampling plan was designed by American military
department known as American Military standardB. This standard has undergone many
revisions from M;(%T"(3I9A to M;(%T"(3I9&. Today this sampling is very much in use.
The acceptability of a lot submitted for inspection shall be determined with the sampling plan
associated with the specified value of AQ;.
'#aing o( Sam%le
Ascertain the lot siGe
/efer the sample siGe code letters table
orm the column indicating lot,batch siGe identify the class to which the population
belongs.
dentify the letter $alphabet) from-
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/efer to table titled %ingle sample plan Lormal nspection using the identified letter
$alphabet) of ection.