FABRIC FINISHESChapter 13

Clothing & Textiles

FINISHING PROCESSES

Finishes any special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture, or performance

COLOR AND DESIGN FINISHES

Gray goods when fabric first comes from the loom (no color)

DYEING TEXTILES

Dyes compounds that penetrate and color fibers

Natural dyes Used for centuries Obtained from plants, insects, shellfish, and minerals

First synthetic dye was discovered by accident in 1856

FIVE DIFFERENT METHODS USED FOR DYEING

Stock dyeing natural fibers are dyed before they are spun into yarns

Solution dyeing used when manufactured fibers are produced, dye is added to the liquid solution that goes through the spinneret

Yarn dyeing yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting

Piece dyeing fabric is dyed after weaving or knitting

Garment dyeing the fabric is cut and sewn into the finished product and then the entire garment is dyed

COLORFASTNESS

Fabric that doesn’t fade, whether its been washed or exposed to chlorine or sunlight

PRINTING TEXTILES

Color is transferred to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern

Four most common printing methods Screen Rotary screen Roller Heat transfer

Other methods that you can try yourself are… Tie-dyeing Painting

PRINTING TEXTILES

Screen printing

See how Screen Printing is done at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbzKLUl48Yk

PRINTING TEXTILES

Roller printing

See how it’s done at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8W2g-YvjPw

PRINTING TEXTILES

Rotary screen printing

See how it’s done at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R04Dbm3ZRAE

PRINTING TEXTILES

Heat-transfer printing

See how its done at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4byFS15S8s

TEXTURE FINISHES

Calendaring fabric passes between two heated rollers that smooth the fabric and improve the luster

TEXTURE FINISHES

Glazing resin applied during calendaring to produce a high polish or glaze on the surface

Embossing fabric is given a raised design on the surface Embossing fabric example below…

TEXTURE FINISHES

Cire (suh-RAY) a super-glossy finish is obtained by applying wax or some other substance before calendaring

TEXTURE FINISHES

Moiré (Mwah-RAY) a watered or wavy pattern is obtained by calendaring two layers of fabric slightly off grain

TEXTURE FINISHES

Napping rotating wire brushes raise the short fiber ends of staple yarns to create a soft and fuzzy surface called the nap

TEXTILE FINISHES

Stone washing and acid washing pumice stones are added to a mass-production laundering process

TEXTILE FINISHES

Mercerization gives cotton added luster, strength, and drape ability. It also improves fabrics affinity for dye. Fabrics and yarns are treated with a caustic soda or lye solution

TEXTILE FINISHES

Sizing starches or resins are added to the fabric for extra body, usually only a temporary finish

PERFORMANCE FINISHES

Antibacterial or antiseptic checks the growth of bacteria and fungi, such as mold and mildew

Antistatic by absorbing small amounts of moisture from the air, this finish reduces the fabric dryness that causes static electricity

Crease-resistant Applied to fabrics that wrinkle easily (cotton, rayon, linen)

Durable press garments maintain a pressed appearance despite repeated washings and wearings

Flame-resistant and flame-retardant reduce flaming or burning of fabrics exposed to a flame or high heat

PERFORMANCE FINISHES

Mothproof repels moths and other fiber eating insects

Shrinkage control MINIMIZES shrinking

Soil release dirt and stains release more easily from the fabric

Water- and stain-repellent yarns are coated with a chemical that repels water and other liquids

Waterproof fabrics have been coated or treated so that no water penetrates