On “Cutting method & knife”

Prepared For:Jenifar Amman

Southeast UniversityPrepared By:Group: 05 Batch: 13th -1Department Of Textile Engineering

Welcome To Our Presentation

WE ARE…Name Of The Student ID.Md. Ubaydur Rahman 2010000400039Md. Salim Azad Didar 2010000400038Md. Foisal Mridha 2010000400037Md. Moniruzjaman Piash 2010000400034Md. Naimul Islam 2010000400032

FABRIC CUTTING To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. It means to cut

out the garment pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of cutting templates. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting.

Object: To separate fabric parts from the spread of the lay according to the

dimension of the marker Requirements Of Cutting: Precession of cut Clean edge Infused edge Consistency in cutting Support of the lay

TYPES OF CUTTING METHOD Fully Manual Hand operated scissor Manually Operated Power Knife Straight knife Band knife Round knife Die cutting Notcher Drill Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting Computer controlled knife cutting Cutting by Laser beam Cutting by Water jet Cutting by Plasma torch

HAND OPERATED SCISSOR

Features: First & oldest method of fabric cutting Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric Available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left Can be cut by scissor Needs more time & contain high cost Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut fabric

STRAIGHT KNIFE Features: The elements of straight knife consists of:

1. An electric motor

2. Stand

3. A base plate usually on rollers

4. Handle

5. Knife

6. Knife Guard

7. Wheel Knife is driven by electric power Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge Straight edge is mostly used Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas & denim

STRAIGHT KNIFE Working Principal: Two kind of powers are required to operate a Straight Knife Motor power drive the reciprocating knife Operator power drives the knife through the lay

The motor power needed is determined by Height of the lay Construction of the fabric Curvature of the line being cut Stroke of the blade

Greater power of the motor, greater blade movement to cut the fabric

STRAIGHT KNIFE Advantage: Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place

to another place Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily Round corner can be cut more precisely then even round

knife Production speed is very good & fabric can be cut from

any angle

Disadvantage: Some time deflection may occur due to the weight o the

motor Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high Sometime accident may happen

DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNIFERound Knife:

Straight Knife:

Wave knife

Straight knife Notch knife

BAND KNIFE Features: Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by

electric motor Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable This is like saw mill cutter

BAND KNIFEAdvantage:Used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is requiredExtensively used to cut very sharp corners small parts such as collars & cuffUsed more in men’s wear than ladies wearIntensively risk of accident is lowPossible to cut 90˚ angle of the fabric

Disadvantage:Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is moveableNot suitable for cutting large amount of garments partsNot possible to cut fabric directlyFabric wastage is highPower loss is high

ROUND KNIFE Features: Element of round knife: Base plate & Electric motor Handle for the cutter to direct the blade Rotating circular blade Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm Blade is circular Blade is driven by electric power Circular knife is driven by 1000-3500 cm

ROUND KNIFEAdvantage: Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multi-layers (say 20-30 layers)Suitable for small scale cuttingSuitable gentle curve cuttingEasy to operate Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments

Disadvantage:Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. of laysNot suitable for higher productionPossibility of accident is highDifficult to cut small componentNeeds skilled operator

DIE CUTTING Features: Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses &

Clickers Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, Ram Head, Die, Motor

& Operating System of Ram Die is made by metallic strip Most useful to cut sharp & small parts

DIE CUTTINGWorking Principal: Die is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of patternDie press generally has a cutting die just penetrates the cutting pad in order that the fibers of the lowest ply are completely separatedFor die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required placement of diesThe spread is cut into sections to allow transport to the cutting padThe gap between two dies 2-3 mm are placed when die is taken to cut fabric lay

DIE CUTTING Advantage: Extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress

accurately Most useful to cut at any shape or any angle Comparatively less time required Best method of cutting knitted fabric

Disadvantage: Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay High labor cost To change the style quickly is impossible Difficult to cut large components of dress

NOTCHER CUTTING M/CFeatures:Special type of cutting m/c & used in special caseUsed to cut notch in the edge of some componentsThe invention of notcher m/c was done to make notchThe notch can be made in U-shape or V-shape

NOTCHER CUTTING M/CAdvantage:Special type of cutting m/c & used in special caseUseful to cut small notch to the fabricMost useful to make consistency in notching

Disadvantage:Only used to make notchThermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/cTime lossUse of the m/c is limited

DRILL CUTTING M/CFeatures:Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for pocket & dart settingThis m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit levelFor tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for longIn hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so that it can easy to find the marked place

DRILL CUTTING M/CAdvantage:Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for setting pocket & dartMake the hole permanently for long time

Disadvantage:Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for setting pocket & dartFor loose woven fabric it can not make the hole permanently for long time

COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTINGFeatures:This method provide the most accurate possible cutting at high speedMarker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cuttingCutting knife is oval shaped & very hard. Sharpness is also high & blade is made of stainless steelCutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer memoryThis m/c is CAM system m/c & works through CAD system

COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTING

Advantage: Very fast cutting operation Very active cutting by computer controlled

system Suitable for very large scale production Speed of can be controlled Intensity of accident is low No need of marker Fabric can be cut 6-8 times than manual

method Less labor cost Disadvantage: Very expensive m/c Higher maintenance cost Skilled manpower is required If correct disc is not loaded in the computer,

error will be indicated

CUTTING BY LASER BEAMFeatures:This method, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot using a laserRadius of spot of light is 0.25 mm & high powerfulWhen the ray falls on a material, it generates heat on the material & cutting is done by vaporizationFabric is cut at a speed of 13 meter per minCutting head is controlled by computer

CUTTING BY LASER BEAM

Advantage: Very fast cutting operation Can be cut in a proper line as the cutting head

is controlled by computer As the fabric is cut by ray off high so that no need of sharpening

operation Disadvantage: Not suitable for cutting of multi-layer of fabric For thermoplastic fabric the cutting edge should be fused Very expensive cutting method

CUTTING BY WATER JET Features:This system, thin jet of water is passes through a nozzle in a very momentumPressure of water is 60,000 pounds per square inchWater is worked as like as hard & sharp knife which can easily cut the fabricA catcher in the bottom of fabric lays & it used with the same speed & the same direction of water jet

CUTTING BY WATER JETAdvantage:Higher cutting speedThere is no need of knife to cut fabric so that no need of sharpening operationsBetter to cut hard material

Disadvantage:Not suitable for higher depth of lay of fabricCutting edge of fabric is wetted by waterSometimes water spot should be seen in the fabricNeed of filtering & deionization of waterNeed of controlling the sound of jet

CUTTING BY PLASMA TORCHFeatures:This system, fabric are cut by a thin through the nozzle which is made by Argon gasOne or more fabric plies can be cutMost useful for cutting single ply of fabricFabrics are cut by placing in a table, the surface (85%) of which must be place in a perforated blanked placeStill now, this system is under research

CUTTING BY PLASMA TORCH Advantage: Automatic torch height control system Automatic oxy-fuel gas control system Automatic torch explosion system Pneumatic band clamping Standard auto-nesting package Easily networked

Disadvantage: Synthetic fiber not cut Higher number of fabric lay is not cut Need higher skill operator Costly

THANK YOU..........