exclusive conference event - vitelco leather · industrial compliancy now created -> reaction to...

Exclusive Conference Event: A Sustainable Model for the Dutch Calf Leather Supply Chain

JOHN FLETCHER STAHL

Compliancy & Sustainability Developments in the Leather Supply Chain

Compliancy & Sustainability Developments Emerging Trends in the Leather Supply Chain

ReVeal Conference

John Fletcher, 2 November, 2016

Key Market Trends

Chemical Compliancy is now a focus at the Brand level

Brands are investing heavily in Sustainability organizations

Non Government Organizations (NGO) are quite active

Tanneries partnering with brands on ‘Environmental Projects’

Chemical Suppliers will deliver ‘Environmental Solutions’

NGO Influence is Increasing

NGO focusing on hazardous substances in consumer brands

Awareness is created, but solutions are not necessarily provided

Compliancy vs. Environmental Impact

Chemical Compliancy Focused on hazardous substances & toxicity

Strong regional regulatory component

Compliancy is one component of Environmental Impact

Environmental Impact A more inclusive term, normally capturing a complete process

Carbon footprint, water quality, energy usage, renewable resource

Compliancy - Perspective from Chemical Suppliers

Agenda

Environmental Impact - Supply Chain Developments

Compliancy has now Evolved beyond Regulatory

Regulatory Component is established on a regional basis - REACH - TSCA

Industrial Compliancy now Created -> Reaction to NGO’s

Multinational Fashion & Apparel brands form ‘ZDHC’ Foundation

- Manufacturing Restricted Substance List for chemical companies (MRSL) - More restrictive compliancy as 2020 approaches

http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRxqFQoTCIXB5fyH5cgCFQlrFAodHnEL0g&url=http://www.cleviria.it/partnership/?lang=en&psig=AFQjCNHzob1skpsZQ_DLsey1GN_mySnuiw&ust=1446118126829053

Regulatory vs. Industrial Compliancy Differences

Regional Approach opposed to Global Approach - Regulatory compliancy is a regional or national approach (REACH/TSCA) - RSL or MRSL are intended for global supply chains

Governance and Controls Systems

- MSDS are governed by regional regulations, not MRSL - Labeling is governed by Global Harmonized System (UN), not MRSL - MRSL is a Self Declaratory System - no controls system as yet

Restricted Substances vs. Manufacturers Restricted Substances

RSL RSL MRSL

Product Compliancy Chemical Compliancy

Tannery – Textile factory Shoe – Bag – Garment factory

Leather

Fabrics Hides

Chemicals

Emissions

Effluent Raw textiles

Divergence in Compliancy Systems

Variation in Global Regulatory Systems: REACH, TSCA, IECSC

Variation in Industrial Compliancy Systems: ZDHC, CHEM-IQ, The List

Not practical for chemical suppliers to support independently

Chemical industry will offer targeted portfolios

Objective to meet ALL Regulatory & Compliancy

Compliancy - Perspective from Chemical Suppliers

Agenda

Environmental Impact - Supply Chain Developments

Cradle-to-Gate Leather Supply Chain

Feedstock for farming

Fertilizer &

Herbicide Production

Tannery Beamhouse > Tanning > Retanning > Finishing

Animal Husbandry Breeding > Grazing > Fattening

Abattoir Slaughterhouse Operations

Co-Products

(milk/ cheese)

Co-Products

(meat/ offal)

Co-Products

(fertilizer)

Land / Water / Electricity and Fuels

Emissions

Chemical Production

Cut Parts

Waste Leather

Finished Leather

Fresh or Salted Hides Livestock

Solid waste Water Soil Air

Sustainability Developments for Leather Manufacturing

Defining Environmental Impact What is the Framework? - Life Cycle Analysis as methodology - Cradle-to-Gate approach - European Commission has launched ‘category rules’

Quantifying the Variables What to Measure? - Multiple Environmental Indicators are needed - Resource consumption/renewable resources are measured - CO2 discharge and O2 depletion important

Output Systems What is Reported? - Captures the entire manufacturing process of leather - Output is an Environmental Product Declaration (EPD)

Leather Process with Key Environmental Impact

1 Raw Hides

Water usage Effluent

quality

67% effluent load

2 Beamhouse

Chroming Water usage

14% effluent load

3 Tanning

Coloring Water

usage

18% effluent load

4 Retanning

Solvents Energy Usage

1% effluent load

5 Finishing

Raw Material to Wet Hide Dyeing & Finishing

Source Salt usage

Renewable Resource Example for Suppliers

Industry Challenges & Improvement Potential

Supply Chain is moving into Closer Alignment - Information exchange has expanded - Chemicals must address both compliancy and environmental impact

Compliancy Focus will expand into Environmental Impact

- Significant will be dedicated to Compliancy, thru 2020 - A transition will occur to broader sustainability approach

Manufacturing Elements with the Highest Improvement Potential - Consumption of Energy or Natural Resources - Quality of Water and Air which is Discharged

The leading specialist in process chemicals, dyes and coatings

Together we are Stahl

Quality Assurance in the veal supply chain by independent certified organization SKV

FREDDY VAN DE SAR, ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, SKV

Quality assurance in the veal supply chain

Freddy van der Sar Associate Director

ReVeal

Dutch Veal Sector

1-12-2016

Dutch Veal Sector 2015 • 2172 Veal Farms

• 1.615.324 Calves

Zeist, September 2015 WWW.SKV.INFO

1-12-2016

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Veal production biggest producing countries in Europe

France

Netherlands

Italy

Germany

Belgium

1-12-2016

100.000

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Export Dutch veal

1990

1-12-2016

The SKV’s objective “To guarantee the quality of calf feed and veal that has been produced according to current quality regulations, in order to better serve the interests of the consumer and to stimulate the sale of veal produced under supervision.”

Zeist, September 2015

26.431 samples


11.063 Visual Audits

Integrated Chain Control


Integrated Chain Control (IKB)

• Animal Welfare • Food Safety

• Law • Market demand


Track & Trace


Track & Trace


• Identification & registration (I&R)

• Announcement of transports international and national

before departure in GTSKV

• SKV slaughterhouses stamp an SKV logo on the

carcasses:

Thank you for your attention. Any questions?

Freddy van der Sar Associate Director

ReVeal

TWAN DE BIE PALI GROUP, DIRECTOR ROMPA TANNERIES

Traceability: This bag was born and raised in Holland

ReVeal

ReVeal

Traceability: “This bag was born and raised in Holland”

ReVeal

Introduction

ing. T.L.A. de Bie MBA ab

Director ROMPA Tanneries

[email protected]

+31 6-20 53 64 81

nl.linkedin.com/in/twandebie

@paligroup

PALI Group

ReVeal

MEMBER OF PALI GROUP

• Founded 1959

• From livestock trader to veal producer

• Family business, 2nd generation

• 4 countries (Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, Poland)

• 450 employees

• € 385 mio. turnover

• 3rd largest veal slaughterhouse in Europe

ReVeal

ROMPA TANNERIES

Joint venture:

ReVeal

ROMPA TANNERIES

INTEGRATED CHAIN

dairy farmer

livestock trader feed producer

collection centre veal farmer slaughter

house deboning

department tannery

supermarket, wholesale

leather goods manufacturer

consumer consumer

coldstore

From calf to leather

INTEGRATED CHAIN

CONTROLLED INTEGRATED CHAIN

Concepts: Beter Leven, Vitel Oké, etc.

Traceability of leather

PALI Group: integrated chain

Every in Holland raised calf is controlled and certified by SKV

ReVeal

SUSTAINABILITY & TRACEABILITY

• More and more important in the leather industry

• Sustainability:

• Animal welfare

• Employees

• Neighborhood

• Environment

• Water / waste / biogas

ReVeal

TRACEABILITY

The NEED to know where your product came from and where it has been

2 reasons for traceability of calf leather

1. Full transparency for our customer

• Sustainability and durability

2. Feedback to our farms

• Improve quality

ReVeal

IF YOU KNOW THE CALF, YOU KNOW EVERYTHING

ReVeal

…ON OUR WAY TO A SUSTAINABLE AND TRACEABLE LEATHER INDUSTRY

“This bag was born and raised in Holland”

THANK YOU

RACHEL WALLACE PROGRAMME PROJECT MANAGER ZDHC FOUNDATION

Next Steps in Chemical Compliancy

© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved

Signatory Brands:

November 2, 2016 Culemborg Rachel Wallace Programme Project Manager

Value-Chain Affiliates:

Associates:

The Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Programme


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Our Vision is widespread implementation of sustainable chemistry and best practices in the textile and footwear industries to protect consumers, workers and the environment.

Our Mission is to advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the global textile and footwear value-chain and act to improve the environment and people's well being.


Brief History:

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2011

2016

The ZDHC Group begins as a coalition of six brands who form as a response to a collective call for action.

ZDHC committed brands publish the Joint Roadmap and commit to zero discharge of

hazardous chemicals by 2020. In 2013, ZDHC issues a Framework for the Prioritisation of Hazardous Chemicals. 11 new contributors join.

2015

In 2014, MRSL V.1 released; Chemical Guidance Sheets developed to assist suppliers

and mills in phasing out chemicals; Research list defined and developed.

In 2015, ZDHC’s updated Joint Roadmap is released - the Programme’s scope is refined to focus on six areas.

Wastewater Quality is added as an area of focus. ZDHC releases Textile Industry Wastewater Discharge Quality Standards Literature Review.

In 2015, Chemical Management Guidance System released, MRSL V.1.1 released (updated to include Leather).

ZDHC Transitions to management under the ZDHC Foundation. Programme’s First Executive Director, Board of

Directors, and ZDHC implementing team appointed.

ZDHC contributor base grown to include 22 Signatory Brands, 13 Value Chain affiliates and 7 Associates.

ZDHC Director of Asia appointed. ZDHC expands presence in China with CNTAC collaboration.

Industry Leaders Commit to ZERO


The ZDHC Team

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Frank Michel, Executive Director

Annie Francis, Operations Director

Scott Echols, Technical Director

Lydia Lin, Asia Director

Rachel Wallace, Programme Project Manager

Lucy von Sturmer, Head of Communications


Focus / Cross – Cutting Area Updates

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Focus Area: MRSL & Conformity Guidance

Focus Area: Research

Focus Area: Audit Protocol

Focus Area: Wastewater Quality

Cross-cutting Area: Data and Disclosure

Cross-cutting Area: Training


Our Approach

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The operational plans for each focus area covers three types of work:

1. Standard setting: Creating and maintaining MRSL, Research, Audit

Protocol, Wastewater Quality and Training standards to achieve acceptance and use of these ZDHC tools and processes as industry standard.

2. Collaborative Implementation: Creating action plans to ensure implementation, adoption and widespread industry acceptance of ZDHC standards and processes.

3. Engagement – Identifying who and how we engage with key stakeholders to maintain the credibility of ZDHC standards and ensure adoption, implementation and widespread use of these standards.

Harmonising standards to support safer chemical management across the global textile and footwear value-chain.


Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL)

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The MRSL is a list of chemical substances banned from intentional use in facilities that process textile materials and trim parts in textile and footwear. It establishes acceptable concentration limits for these substances as impurities or by-products in chemical formulations used within manufacturing facilities.

Limits defined by the MRSL are designed to eliminate the possibility of intentional use of listed substances. Our goal is to have the ZDHC MRSL and conformity process guidance adopted as the global textile and footwear industry standard.


MRSL and Chemical Gateway

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MRSL and Chemical Gateway

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MRSL & Conformity Guidance

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In 2015, ZDHC published the MRSL Version 1.1 (updated from 2014 to include Leather). The MRSL assists brands and organisations throughout value-chains and the broader industry to phase out or substitute hazardous substances potentially used and discharged into the environment during manufacturing and related processes. The MRSL is available in both English and Simplified Chinese via www.roadmaptozero.com We are working on our MRSL Conformance Guidance and will publish this later this year. It will describe how the value-chain can assess claims of conformance with the MRSL by chemical suppliers.

http://www.roadmaptozero.com/


Research

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Our research list is a list of prioritised chemical substances for which there are no safer alternatives in the market today. It lists priority chemical substances that require additional research or substitution. 2014 - Framework for the Prioritisation of Hazardous Chemicals. 2015 - Research List for substitution. 2016 – Development of Research Process / Aligning to MRSL Focus Area. Our goal is to phase out harmful substances by finding appropriate substitutions for key chemicals.


Wastewater Quality

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Well-designed, properly functioning wastewater treatment plants, good process controls and effective chemicals management are key to minimising chemical, physical and biological pollutants discharged into the environment. In 2015, we published a literature review of current wastewater discharge quality standards applicable to the textile industry. Later this month, we plan to release new Wastewater Quality Guidelines to coordinate industry efforts, reduce duplication and clarify requirements throughout the global value-chain. Our Wastewater Guidelines present a single, unified wastewater discharge standard for the industry, that goes beyond regulatory compliance. Our goal is to minimise chemical pollutants discharged into the environment through good process controls.


Audit Protocol

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This focus area was developed to ensure consistency in environmental auditing across the supply chain and sharing of audit findings. The Audit Protocol is supported by the ZDHC Chemical Management System (CMS) Guidance Manual, released in 2015. The CMS Guidance Manual provides guidelines for suppliers to develop, evolve and maintain their own chemical management system. The Audit Tool enables in-depth assessment of chemical management practices by suppliers. It sets the complete audit process for use by brands/retailers, facilities and their auditors when planning and carrying out a self-assessment or an environmental audit. A Memorandum of Understanding with the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) has been signed, with the aim of harmonising the ZDHC Audit Tool with relevant parts of the SAC HIGG Facilities Environment Module (FEM). Our goal is widespread adoption of the ZDHC Audit Tool.


Training

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ZDHC Training is designed to support implementation of ZDHC standards throughout the value-chain. Training is aimed at all parts of the value-chain, including, brands, chemical suppliers, manufacturers and other intermediaries to adopt ambitious chemical management standards.

Later this month, we launch the ZDHC Academy – online portal for Chemical Management Training. Training will be conducted in-person and online, and in a range of local languages. Our six priority countries for training are: China, Bangladesh, India, Vietnam and Turkey & Italy.


Data & Disclosure

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Data touches all parts of the work we do, from MRSL and conformance within formulations, to measuring improvement in water quality by elimination and substitution. Data drives decisions on what successes have been obtained and where work still needs to be done.

We have been developing a universal set of standards to organise the way key chemical data should be collected and shared for the benefit of all stakeholders. We are developing an online portal to drive conformance towards the MRSL. This is called the ZDHC Chemical Gateway. Let’s explore this further….

“You can’t manage what you can’t measure”


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The ZDHC Chemical Gateway will include a comprehensive list of chemical products and an MRSL conformance assessment for each. It will map products against existing chemical accreditation and provide textile manufacturers with documentation to determine the level that a chemical product conforms with the ZDHC MRSL. From November, 30 suppliers will be invited to apply to volunteer to join and help us refine the platform. The Chemical Gateway will be publicly release early 2017.

The ZDHC Chemical Gateway The Chemical Gateway is an open, flexible data portal to assist brands, suppliers and chemical companies assess a chemical’s compliance against the MRSL. Without this type of portal, each textile manufacturer would need to assess every product from each of their chemical suppliers against the ZDHC MRSL to ensure conformance.


The 4th ZDHC – CNTAC Conference on Hazardous Chemical Control & Sustainable Manufacturing

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Collaboration is KEY!

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Join us, and work as part of an exciting collaboration, developing and implementing ZDHC products and tools. We have three contributor categories open to a range of organisations. 1. Signatory Brands – Open to brands and retailers. 2. Value-Chain Affiliates – Open to the textile/footwear industries and related chemical

industry and other solution providers. 3. Associates – Open to industry associations, NGOs and institutional partners such as

government, institutions or academia.


But don’t take our word for it….

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“We joined ZDHC because we knew one brand cannot solve this issue alone. It’s exciting brands and chemical companies are coming together with NGOs to solve this issue and really make a difference. The power of the collaboration of ZDHC has proven itself over the past few years, and it’s now gaining momentum.” - Charles Dickinson, ZDHC Board Treasurer and Primark's Environmental Sustainability Controller

“In the past, we were working in silos within our brands; this is our effort to come together and work more effectively towards the elimination of hazardous chemicals. The ZDHC Programme is about collaborative implementation – speaking to the valuechain with one common voice.” Nathaniel Sponsler, – Sr. Manager Sustainable Chemistry and Policy, Gap Inc. and ZDHC Board Chairman

“It’s one thing to have a standard on a piece of paper; it’s another to have 20 different ways of implementing it. With ZDHC, we are working to demystify some of the complexity around chemical management.” - Anna Walker, Senior Director, Government Affairs and Public Policy, Levi Strauss & Co


Find out more…

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Manufacturing Restricted Substances List V 1.1

Chemical Management System Guidance Manual

Chemical Guidance Sheets

Textile Industry Wastewater Discharge Quality Standards Literature Review

www.roadmaptozero.com


Discussion & Questions


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To achieve our goal, we need your support.

We all have a role to play in moving the

industry towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals to create a better future for workers, consumers, and the

planet.

Join Us

www.roadmaptozero.com

Exclusive Conference Event: A Sustainable Model for the Dutch Calf Leather Supply Chain

exclusive conference event - vitelco leather · industrial compliancy now created -> reaction to...

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