There are few more appealing sights to wake upto than the vision of the serene San GiorgioMaggiore basking in early-morning sunshineacross the Venice lagoon. From our base at thestylish waterfront Hotel Londra Palace, wewere bang opposite this stunning Palladian

church set on a little island at the mouth of the Grand

Canal. Opening the curtains in our room, my wifeand I decided to make it our first port of call.

One of the joys of this intriguing city is thatyou’re never far from the main attractions – and alittle exploration can reveal many other treasures.The view from the top of San Giorgio’s is amongthem. It’s a great way to get your bearings, so we

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City of sights and

sighsWith its network of canals lacing the city between architectural gems, Venice is a city like no other.John Law gives a guided tour

! Gondolas on the Venice lagoonFototeca ENIT/Vito Arcomano! Bridge of Sighs

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caught a vaporetto waterbus across to the church andtook the lift up the bell tower.

And what a vista awaited us! Our 360-degree panora-ma gave us St Mark’s Square, the Basilica and Doge’sPalace in all their glory and a fine view of the canalsand countless islands.

Nowhere in the world is quite like Venice. Its mag-nificent buildings were built on timber piles driven intoa swampy lagoon and the network of tiny streets andwinding canals has changed little over the centuries.

From the Middle Ages the city was at the heart of agreat naval and trading empire and the nobility andwell-heeled merchants built the grand houses, orpalazzi, we see today. Some date back to the Byzantineperiod of the 12th and 13th centuries, with Gothic,Renaissance and ornate Baroque styles arriving later.

For the best view of these historic gems, we hoppedon a No. 1 vaporetto to meander along the length of theGrand Canal. This is the main thoroughfare, buzzingwith vaporetti, barges and gondolas.

gothic masterpieceStepping off at St Mark’s, we visited Venice’s two must-see sights. The Doge’s Palace is a Gothic masterpiecewith sumptuous decorations and lavish artworks byTintoretto and other Italian masters.

The awe-inspiring Basilica San Marco (St Mark’sBasilica) dates back to the 11th century, its interior anextravaganza of mosaics, marble and gold. We went up

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10 things to do in venice" Visit St Mark’s Square, the Basilica and Doge’s Palace for stunning architecture

and history." Go up St Mark’s and San Giorgio’s bell towers for fantastic views." Take a vaporetto along the Grand Canal for more amazing sights." Explore the Rialto fruit and fish market for a true Venetian shopping experience." Visit the islands of Murano and Burano and watch glass-blowing." Discover the peaceful district of Cannaregio and the Jewish Ghetto." See an opera or concert at La Fenice Opera House." Take an evening ghost walk through tucked-away backstreets." Renaissance art is everywhere, but visit the Guggenheim Museum for its eclectic

modern collection." If you can afford it, take a gondola ride.

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! St Mark's Square and theornate Basilica San Marco

! Rialto Bridge

! Lido di Jesolo – Venice’s own beach

! Venice has changed little over time

the church’s adjacent bell tower for another fabulousview across St Mark’s Square below and city rooftops.

Bagging a table outside Caffe Florian in the piazza,we had a cappuccino and slice of cake and listened tothe orchestra. It cost a robust 20 euros but was worth it.

The local tourist board used to advise visitors to “getlost in Venice”. We did just that, wandering around themaze of narrow streets and over canal bridges, stoppingoff for the odd ice cream or refreshing beer at tiny barsfavoured by the locals.

It was always a pleasure to discover you had not thefaintest idea where you were. We explored the quiet water-ways and shopping streets of Cannaregio, in the north-west of the city, and Castello, one of the oldest parts.

At every turn we encountered a Baroque church,faded palazzo, delightful square or bar serving drinksand food at a fraction of the city-centre’s high prices.

When you’ve had your fill of the history, head forthe beach. It’s easy to forget the city has its ownstretch of sand, but a quick dip at Venice Lido is agreat reviver after a day’s footslog.

Only 10 minutes by boat from St Mark’s, thebeach isn’t the greatest but it’s a good place to relax.Afterwards, admire the grand Hotel des Bains andother Liberty-style buildings dating from when the Lidowas a fashionable watering hole of European royalty.

familiesVenice may not be a natural first choice destination for

families, but there are attractions for youngsters apartfrom the beach.

Most kids find it exciting to travel everywhere onwater, and feeding the pigeons in St Mark’s Square isgreat for a family photo. There are play areas withswings and slides in a couple of parks, such as thewaterfront Giardini in the Castello area.

If your older children find Renaissance art heavygoing, they might find the surrealist Magritte paintingsand other modern works more fun at the GuggenheimGallery near the Accademia Bridge. Outside there is asculpture garden and a patio on the Grand Canal suitablefor families.

If you’re shopping, look out for unique items ofhand-blown Venetian glass vases, tableware and

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“Nowhere inthe world isquite likeVenice”

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! Carnival masks

! A Venice canal

ornamental pieces from Murano and delicate lace fromBurano. Silver and glass jewellery can be good value,while carnival masks are novel.

Fashionistas should head for the streets windingbetween Campo San Fantini and Piazza San Marco wherethey’ll find Gucci, Prada, Valentino and the rest. Beware,though, of street traders selling designer knock-offs. Youcould be hit with a huge fine for buying counterfeit goods.

Few young people can afford to live in Venice, sodon’t expect a riotous nightlife. Evening entertainmentrevolves solely around the restaurants and bars. You caneat very well here, though the cost can be frightening ifyou’re not careful.

viewFrequented by Hemingway and countless celebs since,the legendary Harry’s Bar is famous for its Bellinicocktails – and eye-watering prices. For a touch ofglamour and some of the best food in Venice try theVilla Cipriani Hotel restaurant, or the Danieli Hotel ter-race where you can enjoy a great view of the lagoon.

More easily affordable are places serving traditionalItalian cuisine, such as the San Trovaso Taverna inDorsoduro, near the Accademia Bridge, and theSerenissima, near Ca D’Oro. The modern Cavatappiwine bar in San Marco is ideal for an inexpensive sim-ple pasta or risotto lunch.

Alla Madonna is a favourite for its fresh fish at rea-sonable prices. Owned by the same family since 1954,this time-warp trattoria near the Rialto Bridge was heav-ing when we visited. Service was fast and friendly as wetucked into wonderful squid-ink pasta and fish platterswashed down with a delicious local Veneto white wine.

A ride on one of those famous gondolas after dinnerwould have been the romantic thing to do. But being atight-wad unwilling to part with 80 euros or more for a40-minute ride, I resisted the temptation. But if you suc-cumb, negotiate a price in advance with the gondolier –and be prepared to pay extra if he bursts into song!

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venice facts

venice in winterIn winter, the crowds have disappeared and the mists rolling off thelagoon add to Venice’s mystical atmosphere.

There’s no oppressive heat and humidity to drain your enthusiasmfor sightseeing and no queuing to visit the museums and galleries.

Venice is ideal for a relaxing and uncommercialised Christmas. Youcan buy elegant Murano glass necklaces, silver jewellery and othergifts at the Craftsmen’s Market, experience Midnight Mass amid thegilded splendour of St Mark’s, and tour near-empty museums onBoxing Day.

On New Year’s Eve there are lively celebrations in St Mark’s Squareand gala dinners in hotels and restaurants. The Carnival, held eachFebruary, is a great time to visit for the colourful parades, balls andconcerts. Winter visitors may encounter acqua alta, the occasionalflooding. But don’t be put off. For the locals it’s tiresome, but manytourists find it fun.

when to goVenice gets hot, humid and crowded in highsummer, so the best times to visit aregenerally the spring and autumn. Winter hasits own appeal, but between November andMarch there is occasional flooding.

getting thereSeveral airlines fly from London. Check outwww.skyscanner.net for the best deals. Tour operators featuringVenice include Italy specialist Citalia (www.citalia.com), Kirker(www.kirkerholidays.com), Cresta (www.crestaholidays.co.uk)and self-catering specialist Interhome (www.interhome.co.uk).

accommodationFor a stylish canalside base, try the four-star

Canal Grande hotel(www.canalgrandehotel.it) or, for aLagoon view, the Londra Palace(www.londrapalace.com). Hotelbooking agency HotelConnect

(www.hotelconnect.co.uk) has over 70Venice hotels and Dormivenice

(www.dormivenice.com) has hotel deals.

getting aroundThe best way of exploring is on foot, or by inexpensive vaporettiwaterbuses. The no. 1 service runs the whole length of the Grand Canal.Water taxis are fast but pricey, gondolas slow butpricey (though romantic).

tourist informationVenice Tourism: www.turismovenezia.itItalian State Tourism Board (ENIT):www.italiantouristboard.co.uk; 020 7408 1254

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! Doge’s Palace

! Water bus

! Burano Island

! Lace-making

A travel journalist for 35 years, John Law loves Italy andfrequently returns to rekindle his passion.

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