engineering the performance of wool knitwear for softness ...€¦ · engineering the performance...
TRANSCRIPT
![Page 1: Engineering the performance of wool knitwear for softness ...€¦ · Engineering the performance of wool knitwear for softness and appearance retention Mr Laurie Staynes CSIRO Textile](https://reader034.vdocuments.site/reader034/viewer/2022042214/5eb9a9d1d24c1c2d057dd7bd/html5/thumbnails/1.jpg)
Engineering the performance of wool knitwear for softness and appearance
retention Mr Laurie Staynes
CSIRO Textile & Fibre Technology
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What’s behind the title?
§ Judicious raw material selection
§ Suitable processing sequence and conditions
§ Application of quality and process control measures
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What is the result of getting it right?
§ Superior hand feel and comfort – at point of sale and during wear
§ Good appearance retention – at point of sale and after wear/laundering
§ Meeting customer performance expectation – during wear and after laundering
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Raw material selection
§ Fibre diameter and wool quality § Traditionally quoted as a ‘quality number’
given to each lot at sale by an experienced woolclasser
§ Based on the finest worsted yarn quality capable of being spun from a particular lot of greasy wool
§ Now measured objectively in microns
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Wool quality versus micron
Quality value Average micron
Super 140s ~16.5 micron
Super 120s ~17.5 micron
Super 100s ~18.5 micron
80s ~ 19.5 micron
70s ~ 20.5 micron
64s ~ 21.5 micron
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0
10
30
20
Perc
enta
geWorsted Machine Knitting Yarn Production
10-12/2 16-18/2 20-22/2 24-26/2 28-30/2 32-36/2 40-42/2 44-48/2 54-60/2
Yarn Count (Nm)
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Common micron/two-fold knitting yarn counts
Yarn count (Nm) Wool diameter (micron)
2/30s <21.5
2/40s <20.5
2/48s <19.5
2/60 <18.5
2/72 <17.5
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2018 20 22 24 26 28
Relationship Between Wool Micron & CV%C
V% (F
ibre
Dia
met
er)
Average Fibre Diameter of Wool Top(micron)
21
22
23
24
25
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Typical hosiery top profile
§ Mean Fibre Length (Hauteur) 60-65mm § Coefficient of Variation (Hauteur) 48% § Coefficient of Variation of Diameter 22% § Curvature 90°
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Typical Hauteur Diagram(Hosiery Tops)
Popu
latio
n Pe
rcen
tage
Fibre Length
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Typical Hauteur Diagram(Lambswool Tops)
Popu
latio
n Pe
rcen
tage
Fibre Length
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Neps
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Worsted spinning
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Effect of yarn setting on fabric appearance - cockling
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Spirality 80 Tex, Alpha 60, 5° Spirality
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Spirality 80 Tex, Alpha 80, 10° Spirality
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Spirality 80 Tex, Alpha 100 17° Spirality
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Spirality 80 Tex, Alpha 120, 22° Spirality
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Typical yarn steaming sequence
Sequence Operation Time (min) Vacuum (Hg/bar)
1 Vacuum 25”/0.12
2 Steam 3 15”/0.48
3 Vacuum 3-5 25”/0.12
4 Steam 10 15”/0.48
5 Vacuum 5-10 25”/0.12
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Autoclave for killing or setting twist in yarn
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Loose fibre (fly) contamination on yarn guide/cymbal tension
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Loose fibre (fly) contamination on knitting machine head
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Clearing and jointing yarn knotter
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Yarn waxing gravity application
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Yarn waxing preloaded wax application
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Effect of Wax Take-up on FrictionFr
ictio
n C
oeffi
cien
t
Wax take-upideal range
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Measuring yarn-to-metal friction
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Common hosiery yarn packages Front 5°57’ Behind 9°15’
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Well wound knitting package Left: OK, Right: Mis-shapen
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IWTO yarn count tolerances
§ <15 Nm: +/- 0.5 Nm § 15 Nm – 29.99 Nm: +/- 0.75Nm § 30 Nm – 69.99 Nm: +/- 2.5% § >70 Nm: +/- 3%
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Effect of Yarn Count Variationon Fabric Stripiness
Acc
epta
nce
Fabr
ic (%
)
Yarn Count Variation (CV%)
0
20
40
60
80
100
4 Feeders
8
16
3264128
2 4 6 8 10
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Controlling knit density
§ Knit density is the single most important fabric property for controlling pilling, loop distortion, fabric dimensional stability and fabric handle (softness).
§ Knit density is controlled by loop length (stitch length).
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If loop length is too long, fabric becomes slack and may suffer from:
§ bagging § snagging § low bursting strength § loop distortion and cockling § pilling and facing-up § poor dimensional stability to wear and
laundering § generally poor wash and wear performance.
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If loop length is too short, fabric becomes stiff and may suffer from:
§ low elasticity § harsh handle § heavy weight § generally poor aesthetic properties.
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Hatra course length measuring board
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Shirley Crimp Tester
Enables course length to be measured accurately in knitted fabrics
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Wisco Course Length Meter
Enables measurement and control of loop length/cover factor
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Yarn Tension Meter
Measures yarn input tension – assists in control of fabric barre
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Positive yarn feed – capstan roller
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Assisted yarn feed – slip rollers
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Positive yarn feed – Triplite tape
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Positive yarn feed – conical wheel
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Test equipment for measuring fabric properties
§ Bursting § Pilling
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Burst strength hydraulic diaphragm method
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Atlas random tumble pill tester
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Key tests – pilling ICI Pill Box
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Common fabric complaints: harsh/dry handle
§ Wool micron too coarse § Yarn twist level too high § Knitting density too high § Inappropriate finishing § Insufficient softener application
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Common fabric complaints: cockling/loop distortion
§ Too coarse a micron or high percentage of coarse fibres
§ Yarn setting (steaming/package dyeing) resulting in increased flexural rigidity
§ Incorrect twist balance § Large twist variations § Large difference in knit density (fabric width)
between rib border and body fabric of garment
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Common fabric complaints: spirality
§ Singles yarn or incorrect twist balance in plied yarns
§ Feeder drop in high feeder density circular knitting machines
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Common fabric complaints: facing-up
§ Excessive short fibre content in yarn (more fibre ends) § Soft twist yarn § Low fabric density § Wet finishing procedure (scouring/piece dyeing) too
severe § Excessive tumble drying § Over application of fabric softener § Borderline shrink-resist treatment level