encantada 2007-08

36
EXPLORING SANTA FE AND TAOS 2007 EXPLORE ANCIENT RUINS CULINARY ADVENTURES To Please Any Palate SHIDONI: A National Cultural Resource Experience Our World-Class Galleries EXPLORE ANCIENT RUINS CULINARY ADVENTURES To Please Any Palate SHIDONI: A National Cultural Resource Experience Our World-Class Galleries

Upload: zia-publishing

Post on 28-Mar-2016

231 views

Category:

Documents


3 download

DESCRIPTION

This stylish lifestyle magizine highlights area residents, homes, entertainment and business interests of this historical northwestern New Mexico community.

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Encantada 2007-08

E X P L O R I N G S A N T A F E A N D T A O S

2 0 0 7

EXPLOREANCIENT RUINS

CULINARY ADVENTURES To Please Any Palate

SHIDONI: A National Cultural Resource

Experience Our World-Class Galleries

EXPLOREANCIENT RUINS

CULINARY ADVENTURES To Please Any Palate

SHIDONI: A National Cultural Resource

Experience Our World-Class Galleries

Page 2: Encantada 2007-08
Page 3: Encantada 2007-08
Page 4: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE2

4In the Spotlight Welcome to thepublication thatembraces the cel-ebrated cities ofSanta Fe and Taos.

8Fast Facts Take a quickglimpse at five historic churchesand missions dom-inating the SantaFe / Taos scene.

12Tsankawi An easy day trip from either Santa Fe or Taosleads to the fasci-nating ruins of anancient culture.

19Pathfinders in the Arts Early artists set-tling in Taos andSanta Fe’s CanyonRoad unleashed an incredible arts movement.

20Great DiningExperiences Culinary excel-lence and diversityhave contributedto one of thegreatest diningexperiences in the nation.

22New MexicoCuisine The melding ofthree distinct cultures has produced foodunique to this border state.

24InternationalCuisine A world of diningpleasures nowcontributes to thedining scenes ofSanta Fe and Taos

26Shidoni A nationalcultural resourceprovides a unique day trip adventure.

30Fishing the Taos Box Share an angler’sadventure as he battle the big ones.

32Condé Nast®

Readers’ Choice The traveling pub-lic rates Santa Fesecond in the U.S.as a destination.

4 12 18 26

CONTENTS

Encantada is published annually by Zia Publishing Corp. 116 McKinney Road, P.O. Box 1248, Silver City, NM 88062 505-956-1560 [email protected] www.ziapublishing.comPresident & Managing Director, Terri Menges. Vice President, Joe Burgess. Staff Accountant, Arlyn Cooley. Designers, Debra Sutton & Amanda Yaryan. Contributing Writers, Joe Burgess , Brett Ferneau & M.H. “Dutch” Salmon. Photography, Joe Burgess, except where noted. Encantada is a supplement to New Mexico Traveler and is manufactured and printed in the United States of America. ©Zia Publishing Corp. All rights reserved. Reproductionin whole or part without permission of the publisher is prohibited. All submissions of editorial or photography are only accepted without risk to the publisher for loss or damage. Every effort was made to ensure accuracy in the information provided. The publisher assumes no responsibility or liability for errors, changes or omissions.

18Gallery Crawl Walking toursaccess two of the world’s top art markets.

OUR COVERAn ancient footpath worn into solidrock over centuries of time, this is thetrail at Tsankawi Ruin, featured onpage 12. Located between Santa Feand Taos, this city of caves is a unit ofBandelier National Monument and isan easy, enjoyable day trip destinationfor area residents and guests. Photo by Joe Burgess.

ENCANTADAS A N T A F E & T A O S

Page 6: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE4

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

An incomparable combination of activities and settings define the Santa Fe–Taos experience.

The life-size bronze sculpture from artist Denny Haskew shown here at the Inn at Loretto is among the fine works at galleries throughout the region.

Page 7: Encantada 2007-08

E5IN THE SPOTLIGHT

There is no other locale on planet Earth quite like north central

New Mexico. An incomparable combination of attractions, activi-

ties, arts and antiquities set against stunning landscapes creates an

adventure that dances among lingering spirits of the

ancient Anasazi, Spanish explorers in clanging armor and rugged

Old West pioneers.

The achievement of international acclaim has certainly chal-

lenged the region’s magical small-town charm that feeds the muses

of artists and writers, but its casual cultural lifestyle emerged intact,

continuing to be a source of envy to people of other states and

nations. Dining in five-star restaurants dressed in denim or experi-

encing an evening of world-renowned opera performed beneath a

top: Shopping Canyon Road or any of the incredible artdistricts of Santa Fe and Taos is a unique year-roundexperience. above: Taos Pueblo World Heritage Site rep-resents a thousand years of continuous occupation.

Page 8: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE6

brilliant star-studded sky, quite frankly, is the norm. Supporting the arts and anthropology or engaging in the best of

golf, skiing and horseback riding are decidedly influenced by the region’s passionate commitment to the relief of stress.

Blue skies, stunning sunsets, blankets of forest and breathtaking terrain are merely the foundation on which that way of

life revolves.

Welcome to Encantada, the magazine that embraces the celebrated cities of Santa Fe and Taos and champions the

region’s incredible lifestyle. The sheer number and diversity of the area’s activities provide literary opportunities that are

both daunting and keenly intriguing. The staff of Encantada humbly presents a glimpse into the impressive cultural

experience that has emerged from the land and the peoples of North Central New Mexico.

Join Encantada in the exploration of an easily accessible Native Puebloan ruin, step into art galleries that engage the

senses and uncover the secrets of North Central New Mexico’s culinary success. Visualize the creative process at a

nationally recognized foundry and reel in a trophy trout from Rio Grande rapids. Encantada offers you the key that opens

the door to an incredible personal journey.

Taos Ski Valley ranks among the nation’s best and the state’s highest peaks provide unforgettable outdoor Alpine opportunities.

Page 10: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE8

SANTA FE FAST FACTS

1. The Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe houses themiraculous staircase. This awe-inspiring stair-case has two 360˚ turns and was crafted withoutany nails or visible means of support. Legendhas it that the mysterious carpenter who builtthe structure was believed by the Loretto nunsto have been St. Joseph himself.

2. St. Michael’s Mission Church in Santa Fe isAmerica’s oldest church, built between1610 and1626. The original structure was burned in 1680during the Pueblo Revolt and was orderedrebuilt in 1692 by De Vargas. Archaeologicalinvestigations of foundations beneath St. Michael’s reveal evidence of NativeAmerican occupation as early as 1300 A.D.

1.

2.

Page 13: Encantada 2007-08

SANTA FE/TAOS FAST FACTS

3. The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis in SantaFe is the home of America’s oldest Madonna,La Conquistadora or Our Lady of ConqueringLove. The statue was brought to the UnitedStates in 1610 and is housed in a small adobechapel on the northeast side of the cathedralbuilt in 1714.

4. St. Jerome Chapel at Taos Pueblo, first builtin 1619, was destroyed in the Pueblo Revolt of1680 and soon was rebuilt on the same site.The Chapel was again destroyed in 1847 bythe U.S. Army during the War with Mexico. The

5.

3. 4.

present Chapel was rebuilt at a differentlocation in the Pueblo village in 1850.

5. San Francisco de Asis Church inRanchos De Taos is the subject of morepaintings than any other structure in NewMexico. Photographers capture theshapes, angles and rich hues of theunique structure at various times of dayand seasons. Once a year Church mem-bers participate in re-mudding thechurch’s six-foot thick walls.

Page 14: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE12

TSANKAWI

An easy, enjoyable and lesser-known day trip destination for Santa Fe residents and guests is the Tsankawi Ruin,

located near the town of White Rock. Post-adventure, Tsankawi’s easy accessibility and proximity to the City Different

will allow plenty of time for more sightseeing, a siesta or shopping before an evening meal at one of Santa Fe’s many

fine restaurants.

The road less traveled leads to a well-used ancient pathway.

Hikers today are fascinated by the deep footpaths at Tsankawi site near Bandalier National Monument and are awed by the vistas (opposite).

Page 15: Encantada 2007-08

E13TSANKAWI

Page 16: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE14

above: Steps carved and worn into volcanic tuff direct visitors toward upper levels of theTsankawi site. top, right: Visitors browse through the ruin on self-guided tours.

The ruin, whose name is pronounced

“SANK-ah-wee,” is an abandoned city built by

Ancestral Pueblo people between 1300 and

1580 AD. Attesting to the veracity of its name,

which means “village between two canyons,”

Tsankawi stands among stunning views of the

surrounding canyons and mountains. Possibly

selected as a living site because its geograph-

ical location is a natural vantage point, the vil-

lage was built using a technique that makes

Tsankawi a standout among northern New

Mexico’s larger, more famous ruins.

The foundation of the village is a massive

stone outcropping formed from compressed

volcanic ash that geologists call ‘tuff.’ Tuff is

softer than other types of rock, which allowed

the villagers to actually carve out a high-rise

city. In many places there was little need to

stack rocks or build ladders. A continuous loop

path, which visitors still use today, accessed

dwellings at the base of the village. Residents

living higher on the bluff came and went from

their homes using foot- and handholds carved

into the vertical rock faces. While the only nat-

ural source of water is the river below, some

archaeologists believe the village had an elab-

orate water storage system. The people

farmed the surrounding canyons, returning to

their city in the sky at day’s end. Over the ages,

the ancient perimeter pathway was so well

trodden that today’s visitors find places where

that path is worn knee-deep in the solid rock.

The rounded doorways and oddly shaped

rooms make the place seem at once eerie,

humorous and insightful.

Page 17: Encantada 2007-08

Photo

© Er

ic Sw

anso

n, Sa

nta Fe

, NM

Page 18: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE16

The 1 1⁄2 mile high-altitude perimeter

trail presents no special challenges,

although a ladder provides initial

access. Reasonable physical fitness and

altitude conditioning enhance the

experience. Tsankawi Ruin is a separate

unit of Bandelier National Monument

and is maintained by the National Park

Service, which charges a small day-use

fee. It is located near the intersection of

NM Hwy 502 and NM Hwy 4 west of US

Hwy 84/285, about 12 miles north of

Santa Fe en route to Los Alamos. Look

for the sign on the west side of the road

south of the stoplight.top: Tiny cave dwellings dot the sunny slope of the site.above: Picturesque Tsankawi vistas stretch across the Rio Grande Valley. opposite: Ladders aid the exploration of Tsankawi cave dwellings.

Page 19: Encantada 2007-08

E17TSANKAWI

Jemez Mountain Trail National

Scenic Byway 800-252-0191 or

505-867-TOUR.

www.jemezmountaintrail.org/

New Mexico Tourism Department

www.nmtourism.org/

Bandelier National Monument

505-672-3861 Ext. 517.

www.nps.gov/band

A site for retreat-style meetings to the human spirit...

Georgia O’Keeffe stayed here, as well as many other notables, such as, D.H. Lawrence, Ansel Adams, Martha Graham and Carl Jung.

240 Morada Lane • Taos, New Mexico 87571

505-751-9686 • 800-846-2235fax: 505-751-0365

E:mail: [email protected] • www.mabeldodgeluhan.com

Page 20: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE18

GALLERY CRAWL

In the fine arts world, Santa Fe and Taos are small but mighty cities, containing some of the best art galleries

anywhere. In fact, Santa Fe, a city of less than 70,000 people, is the third largest art market in the world and home to

more galleries than any other city its size.

Most Santa Fe galleries are located in two general areas, Downtown and Canyon Road. Both are within easy walking

distance of downtown accommodations and afford a close-up look at the City Different along the way. Locations of Taos

galleries radiate outward from Taos Plaza and continue on up Paseo del Pueblo Norte. Many are just a pleasant stroll

away from the heart of town.

Inside these doors await every style and form of artistic expression, and the hours fly by for viewers as they experi-

ence a sumptuous visual feast. Offerings include late 19th century, early 20th century and contemporary representa-

tional art, contemporary abstract and expressionist art, folk art, Native American arts and pottery, glass, ceramic and

fiber arts, sculpture and fine art photography.

In short, there is something for everyone, and all are invited to set aside a day or two for a good ‘gallery crawl.‘

An incredible number of galleries expose the Santa Fe visitor to a wide array of world class work.

Page 21: Encantada 2007-08

E19GALLERY CRAWL

P A T H F I N D E R S I N T H E A R T S

In 1896, a rut in the road and a broken carriage

wheel initiated a migration of visual artists to Taos.

Thus began the “artist colony” reputation that it

enjoys today. Artists Ernest L. Blumenschein and

Bert G. Phillips were touring the Southwest when the

incident occurred. The nearest blacksmith was in

Taos. Arriving in town, Phillips never left and

Blumenschein returned frequently. Both told their

friends about the beauty of the Taos area, and the

migration was soon underway. In 1915 the two men

and four friends founded the Taos Society of Artists.

The first artists relocating to Santa Fe did so for

the sake of their respiratory health. Carlos Vierra

arrived in 1904 for treatment at Sunmount

Sanatorium, located on a hill above Canyon Road.

Gerald Cassidy, who had entered an Albuquerque

sanatorium in 1890 with severe pneumonia and a

projected life span of six months, moved to Canyon

Road with his wife in 1915. Sheldon Parsons, a New

York portrait painter, suffered a relapse of tuberculo-

sis and came to Santa Fe in 1913, eventually staying

at the Cassidy house while the couple was traveling.

Parsons built his own Canyon Road home and studio

in 1924.

Exquisite marble sculpture shares the Santa Fe scene.

Page 22: Encantada 2007-08

GREAT DINING EXPERIENCES

Culinary diversity and excellence elevate

Santa Fe to one of the top cities in the nation for

dining and make it unique among communities of

similar size. A broad spectrum of international cui-

sine and creative New Mexico recipes and presen-

tations ensure a lifetime of dining experiences in

North Central New Mexico.

E20 2007 ENCANTADA

Page 23: Encantada 2007-08

E21GREAT DINING EXPERIENCES

Santa Fe, with a population of only 63,000 inhabitants, has achieved a level of

culinary diversity and excellence unparalleled in cities of similar and even much

larger populations. A person could literally dine in a different restaurant seven

nights a week for a period of eight months before giving the palate a repeat

round of edible bliss. Trying every dish could easily require a lifetime.

From home cooking to haute cuisine and everything in between, Santa Fe

presents its dining experience in every setting imaginable…the rich and colorful

décor of Mexico, the orient, India or Italy…the list goes on. Seeking out restau-

rants tucked away in the city’s famous Spanish and native New Mexican architec-

ture is but the tip of the iceberg. Bakeries and bistros mingle with barbecue pits.

Delis and diners decorate the scene.

Whether your tastes run to vegan or Vietnamese, you’ll find something for

everyone in the cafés, coffee houses and restaurants of the City Different.

New Mexico-grown chile finds its way into dishes ranging from red chile huevos

rancheros to the classic green chile cheeseburger, a local favorite. Seafood and

steak, sandwiches, soups and salads continue to be popular fare. New traditions

in contemporary Southwestern cuisine are constantly being created by some of

the finest chefs in the world, and Santa Fe is nationally touted for its focus on the

culinary arts.

Many of the ingredients used in local restaurants are organically grown in nearby

farms and greenhouses, while fresh fish and other wholesome foods are flown in

daily. A number of local establishments proudly feature excellent wines from

New Mexico vintners and custom-made beers skillfully crafted at local breweries.

opposite: Fine dining in small cozy Santa Fe settings reflects the influence of theregion’s Pueblo Indian and Spanish heritage. above: Creations utilizing fresh seafood airfreighted to the city daily are comparable to any seaside location. right: Oriental cuisineand liquor are among the numerous international fares of Santa Fe.

Page 24: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE22

Across this country, a term that has become increasingly popular and less mean-

ingful in recent years is the phrase, “Mexican food.” With mass production and dis-

tribution, fast foods and the “Americanization” of recipes, “Mexican food” in the

21st century can be anything its producer says it is, so long as it involves spice

and heat.

Not so with New Mexican Cuisine – there is nothing else like it anywhere. While

the Hispanic-originated foods here share terminology with other locales, the herbs,

spices, flavors and nuances creates a singular dining experience that makes visitors

yearn to return for more.

To understand what makes our native foods special, we could perhaps best begin

by trying to shed some light on an old controversy: the word “chile” versus “chili.”

The fact is that both words can mean the same thing, or they can each mean very

different things.

Besides being the name of a South American country, a chile is the fruit of a

pepper plant called genus Capsicum. The use of these chiles rather than jalapeno

peppers or cumin is an important factor that sets New Mexican food apart from

Mexican, Tex-Mex or Mexican-Californian. Although varieties have been

developed for specialized use as red or green, the green chiles roasting over an

open flame are generally the same as the red chiles comprising the colorful

NEW MEXICO CUISINE

Every Santa Fe restaurant is a gallery of fine dining and artwork.

Your host, Lino Pertusini, from Lake Como,

and staff, invite you to experience authentic

regional Italian cuisine, and extensive wine list,

great cocktails, world class service in an elegant

charming and historical setting.

Enjoy our fireplace, two bars,

private rooms and outdoor dining.

Located two blocks from Santa Fe Plaza.

Osteria D’ Assisi

505.986.5858

SOUTH FEDERAL PLACE • SANTA FE, NM

FAX: 505.986.3938

W W W . O S T E R I A D A S S I S I . N E T

I N F O @ O S T E R I A D A S S I S I . N E T

Page 25: Encantada 2007-08

E23NEW MEXICO CUISINE

ristras, except that the red chiles were harvested later in

the season.

With regard to the peppers, either spelling can be

regionally correct, and even some growers call their

products “chili peppers.” The confusion sets in when

the name of this noble fruit collides with that of the dish

most of the world knows as chili. Properly called Chili

con Carne, this Tex-Mex recipe contains kidney beans,

ground beef, red chile powder and usually cumin.

Aside from the chiles, New Mexican cuisine in gener-

al features more beef, much more cilantro, a different

kind of oregano and a more flexible use of both corn

and flour tortillas than food in Mexico. It uses fewer

jalapenos and less cumin than Tex-Mex, and doesn’t use

Chile con Carne at all. It uses less rice, mixed vegeta-

bles, seafood and fewer avocados than California style.

Now that we’ve analyzed it, let’s go enjoy it, because

mere words can’t describe it. At Santa Fe restaurants,

native New Mexican recipes have been tested and

handed down for generations, so there’s no better place

to get started.

top: Colorful dishes from the Far East create a delectable spread.above: The best of Italian cuisine attests to the city’s diversity.

osaka steakhouse & seafood grillSteakhouse:

Lunch: Tues.-Sat. 11:30am-2:30pmDinner: Mon-Sat. 5pm-10pm, Sun 1pm-9pm

Bistro:Lunch: Tues-Sat. 11:30am-2:30pm

Dinner: Mon-Sat. 5pm-10pm, Sun 1pm-9pm

Live Jazz Friday Evenings8:30pm-11:30pm

3501 Zafarano Drive, Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505)471-6698

osaka bistroSushi • Full Bar

Page 26: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE24

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE

Travelers might circle the globe several

times seeking out the cuisines of different

cultures. Santa Fe residents and guests, on

the other hand, need not leave the area to

experience exquisite recipes from every

corner of the world.

Long famous for its singular native New

Mexican foods, the Santa Fe of recent

decades has become a showcase for the

finest in international fare as well. Do you

have a craving for Cajun or a taste for Tai?

Some diners choose Chinese; others are

fond of French or have that Japanese yen.

German? Indian? Italian? This is the place

for you.

The choices are too numerous to list

here. The best savory strategy is simply to

set out and explore what Santa Fe has

to offer.

International cuisine available in

Santa Fe includes, but is not neces-

sarily limited to: Cajun, Chinese,

Continental, French, German,

Global, Indian, Italian, Japanese,

Mediterranean, Mexican, Native

American, New Mexican, Spanish,

Thai and Vietnamese. The food is

served in a variety of settings and

features a full range of pricing.

The dessert scene in Santa Fe reflects the com-petitive excellence achieved by Santa Fe bakersand pastry chefs.

Page 27: Encantada 2007-08
Page 28: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE26

SHIDONI

Since 1971, informed Santa Feans have known that an immense contemporary cultural resource sits unobtrusively in a

pastoral setting just five miles north of the City Different. Not as many people are aware, however, that each Saturday,

Shidoni Foundry and Galleries in Tesuque becomes a ‘different’ sort of local day trip destination. Here the public can wit-

ness the creation of fine sculpture, as 2000-degree molten bronze is poured into ceramic shell molds.

Foundry projectsrange from smallintricate fine art

pieces to the worldslargest equestrian.

Shidoni was the dream of founder Tommy Hicks and his family. The first bronze pour there occurred in an old

chicken coop near the river.

Pho

to ©

Shi

do

ni

Page 29: Encantada 2007-08

E27SHIDONI

mold. Its skilled craftspeople specialize in enlargement, mold making, lost wax cast-

ing, fabrication in a variety of metals, patina, bases, sculpture mounting, installation

and handling. The foundry maintains an openness that allows visiting artists to come

to Shidoni and work on their creations in a personalized environment. Many of the

works are done on a grand scale; for example, “Chisholm Trail” by Paul Moore is 34

feet long and features six life-size longhorn cattle and two cowboys on horseback. It

is installed at Clinton, OK.

“Having been in the casting business for 36 years, our challenge is keeping every-

thing fresh and demanding,” said Scott Hicks, president of Shidoni, Inc. “Our staff is

always eager to take on new adventures. Our gallery has won a people’s choice award

from the local newspaper called Best Gallery in Santa Fe.”

In addition to the sculpture garden, there are actually two galleries here: the Bronze

Gallery and the Shidoni Arts Gallery, both open Mon.-Sat. from 9 to 5. Visiting hours

at the foundry are weekdays 12-1 and Saturdays 9-5. Bronze is cast on Saturday after-

noons at 1:00, 2:45 and 4:00. Phone 505-988-8001. www.shidoni.com

opposite: Shidoni Foundry poured the 500 castings utilized in The Equestrian, the largestbronze equestrian sculpture in the world, located at the entrance to the El Paso InternationalAirport. left: Shidoni’s bronze gallery/sculpture garden offer the largest selection of contem-porary sculpture in the Southwest. above: Saturday visitors can watch the casting of 2000degree bronze into molds for fine art creations.

“Shidoni” is a Navajo word used in

greeting a friend, and it perfectly

describes the relationship that Shidoni

Foundry and Galleries has established

with artists and collectors worldwide. Its

galleries and sculpture garden represent

the work of more than 100 artists from

across the country. Situated in an eight-

acre apple orchard, the sculpture garden

is open during daylight hours year-round,

and is a delightful day trip destination

in itself.

The origin of the Shidoni operation is

the foundry. While its existence is certain-

ly no secret, its capacity is surprising. Each

month the 14,000 square foot facility

pours 10,000 pounds of bronze, with as

much as 700 pounds going into a single

Photos this page © Shidoni

Page 30: Encantada 2007-08
Page 31: Encantada 2007-08
Page 32: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE30

FISHING THE TAOS BOX

Beginning just below the Colorado border, the Rio Grande Gorge runs for some 90 miles to the town of Velarde where

the river begins to open and spread into farm country. It soon becomes a warm water catfish and carp fishery, when it

has water at all, but through that 90-mile canyon run it is famed for trout and the occasional monster northern pike. A

brief description of two adjacent locales I’m familiar with, in roughly the middle of the canyon, give us a look at what

you may find in The Gorge.

Just south of the town of Questa is a public trail that will take you down nearly 1000 feet to the confluence of the Red

River. Here the Rio Grande is a run of classic pocket water formed by huge basalt boulders. Wading and rock hopping

The 90-mile Rio Grande Gorge provides some of the most exciting fishing experiences in New Mexico.

By M.H. “Dutch” Salmon

Page 33: Encantada 2007-08

E31FISHING THE TAOS BOX

is tricky and the browns, rainbows and cut-bows

cagey enough that next time there I will use a

strike indicator; without one these furtive trout will

tap your fly and discard it without you ever know-

ing you had a bite. These are often wild trout, and

while a foot-long is common, 20” trout are lurking

in the cover of those boulders on the edge of

the currents.

The next town south is Taos and near here you

may access the John Dunne Bridge by vehicle.

The river here is wider, more open, and slower. It’s

easier to get to, and to fish, which means more

fishermen, but it is well stocked with rainbows and

a wild lunker brown is still possible. On my visit I

caught more trout here than amongst the boul-

ders upstream but still preferred the Red River

confluence for its “wild” feel.

What works? You may luck into a variety of

mayfly or caddis hatches that call for a dry fly

approach; other times – indeed anytime –

nymphs and wooly buggers will always stand a

chance.

For more info on fishing The Gorge, near Taos

and elsewhere, I recommend Fly Fisher’s Guide to

New Mexico by Van Beacham.top: Brown, rainbow, and cut-bow trout inhabit the Taos Box and an occasionalmonster Northern Pike. above: Foot-long wild trout are common but the possibilityof a 20” trout lurking under a boulder keeps the adrenaline pumping.

Photos © Jeff Croy, The Reel Life

Page 34: Encantada 2007-08

2007 ENCANTADAE32

CONDE NAST BEST CITY

It was something Santa Feans had suspected for many years, and recently, premier travel magazine Condé Nast

Traveler® confirmed those suspicions in a reader’s poll: Santa Fe is one of the top cities to visit in America! The

magazine’s 2006 Readers’ Choice Awards rated the City Different second in the nation, just behind San Francisco

and ahead of New York City.

Wait – those other places are home to millions of people, aren’t they? Yes, and that’s part of what makes Santa

Fe’s triumph so sweet. Its small-town ambience combined with international cuisine and a rich cultural tradition has

earned the city a standing among the nation’s giants as a travel destination.

“It’s always an honor to be recognized by Condé Nast®,” said Thomas Maguire, Acting Executive Director of the

Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau. “This award is especially meaningful coming from a poll of 28,000 readers.

I think it speaks highly of Santa Fe as a destination.”

Other cities in the U.S. top ten were Chicago, Charleston SC, Carmel, Honolulu, Aspen, Seattle and Sedona.

Condé Nast Traveler’s® 2006 Readers’ Choice Awards rated Santa Fe second in the nation for top cities to visit.

Page 35: Encantada 2007-08
Page 36: Encantada 2007-08