easy as 1,2,3 - hobbico, inc.manuals.hobbico.com/hca/hca-superstar-40-1998-manual.pdf · part #...
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Easy as 1,2,3V1.3© Copyright 1998
Know your model’s parts.
Take a moment now tomatch the boxcontents with the itemslisted below. Followingthe SuperStar 40’sassembly instructionswill be quite easy if youidentify and organizethe parts before youbegin. You may alsowant to review theglossary of specialmodeling termsincluded at the back ofthis manual. Words inyour instructions thatappear in bold italictype are explained inthis section.
Replacement Parts Available
You’re about to build in just days what took aviationpioneers years—a powered machine that flies. Speciallycreated for you and other first-time radio controlmodelers, Hobbico’s SuperStar 40 offers nearly all theexcitement of piloting a real airplane...and developsskills that will take you anywhere you want in your newhobby.
HCAA3065 Wing KitHCAA3066 Fuselage Kit
HCAA3067 Fin SetHCAA3068 Landing Gear Set
* Parts marked with an asterisk are found on the plastic parts tree.
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Landing GearPart # Quantity
Main landing gear wires ............2Nose gear wire............................1Nose gear control horn..............1*Landing gear straps..................2Wheels ........................................3Wheel collars w/ set screws ......53mm x 10mm wood screws.......4 Wing Assembly
Part # QuantityRight wing .................................................1Left wing.....................................................1Hinges ......................................................11Plywood wing joiner plates ......................3Ailerons (left and right).............................2Wing center section tape ..........................1Aileron servo tray ......................................1Aileron servo tray mounting blocks.........2*Aileron control horns ..............................2Aileron pushrods.......................................2*Clevises.....................................................5Clevis safety tubing ...................................1Wing alignment peg..................................1
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Tail AssemblyPart # Quantity
Horizontal Stab and elevator ........1Vertical fin and rudder...................1Hinges ..........................................11*Clevises..........................................5*Control horns................................2Pushrods .........................................22mm x 15 mm machine screws.....4
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Engine Mounting PartsPart # Quantity
Engine mounting pads.......................2Machine screws 4 mm x 20 mm ........44 mm plain nuts..................................44 mm lock washers .............................4Push rods and sleeves ........................2
Fuselage & PartsPart # Quantity
Fuselage .................................1Wing mounting dowels.........2Servo tray ...............................1Plywood stab base.................1Spinner...................................1Servo tray support .................1
Fuel Tank & PartsPart # Quantity
Fuel tank ..............................................1Neoprene tank plug ............................1Fuel pick-up weight ............................1Plastic plug compression disks(one large and one small) ...................2Aluminum fuel tubing (one short and two long) ....................33mm x 18mm self tapping screw......1Silicone fuel line ..................................1Tank collar ...........................................1
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Need Help?
If you need help or have anyquestions, please contact us at:
(217) 398-8970or e-mail us at
See more of our products atwww.hobbico.com
Getting Ready for FlightYour Hobbico SuperStar 40 trainer is ready for takeoff in as little as 15-20hours. Your hobby dealer or flying instructor (see next page) can help youdecide what accessories you’ll need for flight. Most are one-time onlypurchases—and your instructor will probably allow you to use his field boxuntil you can outfit your own with a glow plug starter, fuel bulb or pump, and“chicken stick" or electric starter. You will need to provide your own fuel. Useglow fuel with a 10-15% nitro blend to keep your engine performing at its peak...andyour SuperStar 40 will have the power to make you an accomplished pilot!
Other items you’ll need:GluesChoose any 5- or 6-minute epoxy, such as Hobbico Bullet,which has been formulated especially for R/C modelbuilding. Epoxies offer a strong bond and a variety of curingtimes suited for every step of assembly. You’ll also need aninstant-setting CA (cyanoacrylate), a thicker CA+, and a 30-minute epoxy, plus rubbing alcohol for easy epoxy cleanup.
Model EnginePower your SuperStar with any high-quality, .40-size model engine. The O.S. .40 FP, SuperTigreGS-40 and Irvine .40 RC are just a few examples.Look for features such as easy break-in, easystarting, efficient carburetion and lowmaintenance. Check the manufacturer’srecommendations for propellers to use with yourengine.
Radio EquipmentTo let you send the commands that control yourSuperStar 40’s “flight path,” you’ll need a 4-channelaircraft radio system with four standard servos. Many4-channel radios include just three servos. You mayneed to purchase the fourth separately. The servos andradio receiver will be mounted on-board your modeland need to be cushioned from jolts and vibration.One-half inch thick foam rubber sheets are availablefor this purpose.
HardwareTools and accessories required forassembly include a hobby knife; smalland large Phillips screwdrivers; needlenose pliers; drill with 1/16” and 5/32”bits; ruler; #64 rubber bands; 3 feet ofmedium fuel tubing; and petroleum jelly.
Other General Items RequiredEpoxy Brushes Felt-Tip Pen Sandpaper Mixing Sticks Mixing CupsMasking Tape Clothespins Paper Towels Fine-Toothed File Silicone SealantsT-Pins String Standard Screwdriver Thread Locking Compound 10mm Wrench3mm Screw Pushrod Connectors Foam Rubber Servo Tape Drill and Drill Bits –
1/16", 1/8" and 5/32"4
The best way to begin flyingyour SuperStar 40 is with anexperienced R/C pilot or flyinginstructor at your side. You’lllearn faster, relax those in-flightjitters, and avoid risking yourmodel before you’re truly ready tosolo.
Where do you find an instructor?Ask at your local hobby shop.They’ll have information aboutflying clubs in your area whosemembership includes qualifiedinstructors. You can also join theAcademy of Model Aeronautics(AMA), a 165,000 member-strong
national organization withmore than 2,500 charteredclubs across the country.Through any one of them,instructor training programsand insured newcomertraining are available. Contactthe AMA at the address orphone number below:
Find a Flying Instructor
WARNING! This is not a toy!
90-Day Limited WarrantyIf you, as the original owner of this model, discover
defects in parts or workmanship within 90 days ofpurchase, Hobbico will repair or replace it—at the optionof our authorized U.S. repair facility, Hobby Services—without charge. Our liability does not include cost ofshipping to us. However, Hobby Services will pay shippingexpenses to return your model to you.
You must provide proof of purchase, such as your originalpurchase invoice or receipt, for your model’s warranty tobe honored.
This warranty does not apply to damage or defectscaused by misuse or improper assembly, service orshipment. Modifications, alterations or repair by anyoneother than Hobby Services voids this warranty. We aresorry, but we cannot be responsible for crash damageand/or resulting loss of kits, engines, accessories, etc.
Repair ServiceYour SuperStar 40 must be returned directly to Hobby
Services for warranty work. The address is:Hobby Services, Attn: Service Department, 1610 InterstateDrive, Champaign, IL 61821-1067 Phone: (217) 398-0007
Please follow the instructions when returning your
model. This will help our experienced technicians torepair and return it as quickly as possible.1. ALWAYS return your entire system, including airplane
and radio.2. Disconnect the receiver battery switch harness and
make sure that the transmitter is turned off. Disconnectall batteries and drain all fuel.
3. Include a list of all items returned and a THOROUGH,written explanation of the problem and service needed.If you expect the repair to be covered under warranty,also include your proof of purchase.
4. Include your full return address and a phone numberwhere you can be reached during the day.
If your model is past the 90-day warranty period or isexcluded from warranty coverage, you can still receiverepair service through Hobby Services at a nominal cost.Repair charges and postage may be prepaid or billed COD.Additional postage charges will be applied for non-warranty returns. All repairs shipped outside the UnitedStates must be prepaid in U.S. funds only.
All pictures, descriptions and specifications found in thisinstruction manual and on the product package are subjectto change without notice. Hobbico maintains noresponsibility for inadvertent errors.
JOIN THE AMA
Academy of Model Aeronautics5151 East Memorial DriveMuncie, IN 47302Toll Free: (800) 435-9262Fax: (765) 741-0057Web Site: http//www.modelaircraft.org
Before you fly:1. Make sure that no other flyers are
using your radio frequency.2. Your radio transmitter must be
the FIRST thing you turn ON, andthe LAST thing you turn OFF.
Fuel storage and care:1. Do not smoke near your engine
or fuel.2. Store all engine fuel in a safe,
cool, dry place, away fromchildren and pets.
1. Always wear safety glasses.2. Make certain that your glow
plug clip is securely attached tothe glow plug—and cannot popoff, possibly falling into thespinning propeller.
3. Use a “chicken stick” or electricstarter to start the engine—NOT your fingers.
4. Make sure that the wires fromyour starter and glow plug clip
cannot become tangled with thespinning propeller.
5. Do not stand at the side of thepropeller when you start or runthe engine. Even at idle speed,the spinning propeller will benearly invisible.
6. If any engine adjustments arenecessary, approach the engineonly from behind the spinningpropeller.
Please follow these safety precautions:
When starting and running your engine:
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Aileron servo tray mounting blocks
❑ 1. Locate the 1/8" (3mm) die-cut plywood wingjoiners and separate the three individual joiners fromthe die-cut plywood sheet using a hobby knife. Draw acenter line on both sides of the plywood wing joinersand aileron servo tray mounting blocks. Use one ofthe plywood joiners as a template to mark the wingdihedral angle on both of the balsa 5/16" x 1-7/16"(8mm x 36mm) aileron servo tray mounting blocks.Put these mounting blocks aside for use in Step #16.
Orientation of the wing joiners
❑ 2. Arrange the three "V"-shaped plywood wingjoiners in the same orientation as they will be gluedtogether. Number each plywood wing joiner forreference in the next step.
Gluing the wing joiner
❑ 3. Mix approximately 1/4oz. (7.5ml) of 6-minuteepoxy. Using a mixing stick or epoxy brush, apply aneven coat of epoxy on both sides of the #2 wing joiner.With the #3 wing joiner laying flat on the work surface,stack #2 on top of #3 and #1 on the top of #2. Note: Theepoxy should be in between the layers of the plywoodwing joiners and not on the outside surfaces.
Clamping the wing joiner
❑ 4. After epoxy has been applied to the #2 wingjoiner and the joiners have been laminated, use three
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Assembling the Wing What you'll need –Parts in this kit • Rubbing alcohol
• 3 Plywood wing joiner pieces • Felt-tip pen• Left and right wing halves • Ruler• Wing center section tape • Sand paper• 6 Brass hinges • Mixing sticks• 2 Servo tray mounting blocks • Mixing cups• Aileron servo tray • Masking tape• Servo hole template • Petroleum jelly• Covering removal template • Hobby knife• 2 Aileron control horns • Clothespins• 2 Plastic clevises • Paper towels• 2 Aileron pushrods • CA+ glue• Clear plastic tubing • 6-minute epoxy...Plus, these general items: • 30-minute epoxy• Epoxy brushes • Fine-toothed file
Center line
1
1
2
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Actual Size
Servo Tray Block (2)
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clothespins to clamp the wing joiners together firmly. Theexcess epoxy must be removed before it dries-see Step #5.
Removing the excess epoxy
❑ 5. Excess epoxy will be squeezed out of the seamsbetween the joiners and must be removed before theepoxy is allowed to cure. Use a paper towel andrubbing alcohol to remove the excess epoxy. Be carefulnot to disturb the alignment of the joiner pieces.
Test fit the wing joiner
❑ 6. A f t e r t h e e p o x y h a s c u r e d a n d t h eclothespins have been removed, test fit the wingjoiner in both wings by sliding the joiner intothe joiner cavity in the wing. The joiner shoulds l i d e i n w i t h a l i t t l e r e s i s t a n c e u p t o t h ecenterline drawn on the both sides of the joiner.
Sanding the joiner
❑ 7. If the wing joiner will not fit in the cavity, lightlysand the excess epoxy and uneven surface joints fromthe joiner edges and sides. Caution: A snug fit isdesirable between the joiner and the wing cavity. Donot sand excessively.
Viewing the wing dihedral
❑ 8. Pay close attention to the orientation of the wingjoiner in relation to the dihedral of the wings as shown.
Gluing the joiner in the wing
❑ 9. Mix 1/4oz. (7.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy to gluethe joiner into one wing half. Use a mixing stick orepoxy brush to apply epoxy to all four sides of thejoiner cavity wall. Insert the joiner into the cavity upto the centerline marked on the joiner plate. Be sureyou are installing the joiner in the correct orientationto the wing. Clean the excess epoxy from the wingroot rib. You must be sure all the excess glue isremoved from the wing root or the wings will not fittogether correctly. Allow enough time for the epoxy tofully cure before proceeding to the next step.
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Bottom of wing
Wing joiner
Bottom of wingNote the directionof the joiner
Wing joiner cavity
Dihedral angle
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Marking the wing cavity
❑ 10. Lay the wing halves on the work surface withthe white, flat side facing up. Place a mark at thetrailing edge of the wing cavity, where the wing joinerwill be inserted, on each wing half. This wing joinerlocator line will serve as a guide when cutting out theaileron servo hole.
Applying the epoxy
❑ 11. Mix 1/2oz. (14.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy andapply to the wing root rib and inside the joiner cavityof the second wing half.
Joining the wing halves
❑ 12. Assemble the two wing halves with the tightestseam possible. No gaps should be showing between thetwo wing halves. Clean the excess epoxy from the outsideof the wing using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
Taping the wing halves together
❑ 13. Cover the seam between the wing halves withmasking tape. Set the wing aside to dry. It may benecessary to prop one wing half up (the tip of the wingwould be 5" from the work surface) with the otherwing half flat on the work surface to hold the winghalves in alignment while the epoxy is curing.
Cutting the aileron servo hole
❑ 14. Remove the masking tape from the wing jointseam. With the wing laying upside down and theleading edge facing away from you, tape the aileronservo hole template to the bottom of the wing withtwo pieces of 1/2" (12.5mm) long masking tape. Thetop inside edge of the template should be placed1/16" (1.5mm) below the the wing joiner locator line,drawn in Step#10, and the center lines should bedirectly over the wing joint. Using a felt-tip pen, tracethe inside of the template and then remove thetemplate. Use a hobby knife with a new blade tocarefully cut-out the aileron servo hole. Do not cutthrough the top side of the wing or into the wingjoiner cavity.
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Bottom of wing
Bottom of wing
Servo hole template
Masking tape
Masking tape
Wing cavity locator line
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Removing the covering
❑ 15. Tape the “covering removal template” to thebottom of the wing, directly above the aileron servohole, with two pieces of masking tape 1/2" (12.5mm)long. Trace the inside of the template with a felt-tippen and then remove the template. Remove only thecovering within the marked line, being careful not tocut into the balsa wing sheeting.
Cutting the mounting blocks
❑ 16. Locate the aileron servo tray and the two balsa5/16" x 1-7/16" (8mm x 36.5mm) servo tray mountingblocks and position them with the marked dihedralline up. Using a sharp hobby knife, cut the angle outof the block. This angle will be placed against the wingwhen the servo tray is installed.
Assembling the servo tray
❑ 17. Apply thick CA+ to the flat side of the balsaservo tray mounting block. Place the mounting blockon the aileron servo tray next to the servoopening–not on the outer edge of the tray. Note thepositioning of the dihedral angle in relation to theservo tray.
Test fitting the aileron servo
❑ 18. Test fit the aileron servo into the servo tray andthe hole cut in the bottom side of the wing. Enlargeeither hole, if needed, with a hobby knife or a finetoothed file until a proper fit is achieved.
Installing the servo tray
Servo Tray Mounting Blocks (2)
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Remove the shaded area.
Actual Size
Masking tape
Covering removaltemplate
Bottom of wing
Servo tray mounting blocks
Aileron servo tray
Aileron servo
Aileron servo tray Bottom of wing
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❑ 19. Mix 1/8oz. (3.5ml) of 6-minute epoxy to gluethe servo tray to the bottom side of the wing. Applyequal amounts of epoxy to the mounting blocks onboth ends of the servo tray. Attach the servo tray onthe bottom of the wing with the servo wire harnessnotch facing the leading edge of the wing. Themounting blocks should be attached to the wingsheeting where the covering was removed in Step #14and not to the wing covering. Allow the epoxy to fullycure before proceeding to the next step.
Applying the centering tape
❑ 20. Starting at the front aileron servo tray block,apply the 1/2" (12.5mm) white plastic centering tapecompletely around the wing over the joint. A smallamount of pressure should be applied to make asmooth seam.
Checking the hinges
❑ 21. The hinge material used in this kit consists of a3-layer lamination of mylar and polyester. It isspecially made for the purpose of hinging modelairplane control surfaces. Properly installed, this typeof hinge provides the best combination of strength,durability and ease of installation. The CA hinges inyour plane are preglued and must not be removed.Check each of the ailerons, the rudder and theelevator to be sure that they are secure. Gently tug oneach of the control surfaces at each hinge location. Ifany of them seem loose, reglue them as describedhere. First, flex the surface all the way one direction(DO NOT REMOVE THE HINGE). Apply a few drops ofthin CA glue onto each hinge. The glue will wick intothe wood providing a strong joint. Use a paper towelto absorb any excess glue. Wait a few minutes for theglue to harden, then flex the surface the otherdirection and glue the other side of the hinge in thesame manner. Finally, flex back and forth severaltimes to free up the control surface.
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Bottom of wing
Centering tape
Servo wire harness notch
If necessary, applythin CA to both sidesof the hinge.
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Installing the aileron control horns
❑ 22. Locate the aileron control horns on the plasticparts tree. Remove the control horns and thread themonto the torque rods until there is 3/4" (19mm) oftorque rod between the wing and control horn.
Assembling the pushrods
❑ 23. Locate the two plastic clevises on the plasticparts tree and two 8" (203mm) aileron control rods.Thread the clevises onto the pushrods in a clockwisemotion until the rod starts to protrude from the insideof the clevis between the forks.
Installing the pushrods
❑ 24. Attach the aileron control rods to the ailerontorque rods using the plastic clevises. Pry the fork ofthe clevis apart and insert the pin of the clevis throughthe hole in the aileron control horn. Press the forks ofthe clevis back together until they snap into place.
Aileron pushrods installed
❑ 25. Locate the 1/4" (6.5mm) diameter clear plastictubing and cut two 1/4" (6.5mm) long pieces. Do notuse the medium silicone fuel tubing. Slide one pieceon each of the two control rod clevises to secure theconnection between the clevis and the horn.
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Aileron Control Horn (2)
Actual Size
Clevis (2)
Actual Size
Bottom of wing
Aileron control horn
Clevis
Aileron pushrod
Clevis
Aileron torque rod
Tubing goes here
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Fuselage Assembly
Servo tray installation
❑ 1. Locate the two plywood servo tray supportsincluded in the kit. Only one will be used in the servotray installation. Select the servo tray support with thewide tabs and the servo tray itself.
Gluing the servo tray support
❑ 2. Mix 1/8oz. (3.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy to gluethe servo tray mount into the fuselage. The servo traymount will be positioned in front of the pre-installedhardwood landing gear block on the side facing thenose of the aircraft. Apply epoxy to all the fuselagesurfaces that will come in contact with the servo traysupport. Install the servo tray support. Allow theepoxy to cure.
Test fitting the servos
❑ 3. Test fit your servos into the plywood servo tray.Enlarge the servo tray opening, if needed, using a finetoothed file until a proper fit is achieved. The servoshould fit loosely into the radio tray up to the servomounts. After final installation the servos should floatfreely on the rubber grommets.
What you'll need - Parts in this kit ...Plus, these general items:
• Scrap plywood • Paper towels• 2 Foam wheels • 6-minute epoxy• 4-4mm Wheel collars • 30-minute epoxy• 4-2 x 5mm screws • Silicone sealant• Fuselage • Ruler• Pushrod guide tube • Mixing sticks• Steering pushrod • Mixing cups• Hardwood wing dowels • Rubbing alcohol• Plywood stabilizer mount • Epoxy brushes• Horizontal stabilizer • Thin CA glue• Vertical stabilizer • Needle nose pliers• 2 Plastic control horns • Sand paper• 2 Control horn backplate • Fine toothed file• 4-2 x 20mm S/T screws • Masking tape• Nose gear • Hobby knife• Nose gear control horn • Felt-tip pen• Fuel line • T-pins• Fuel tank • String• 3 Aluminum tubes • Portable drill• Tank plug • 1/16", 1/8" Drill bits• 2 Tank plug discs • Phillips screwdriver• 3 x 18mm S/T screw • Standard screwdriver• Fuel pick-up weight • Petroleum jelly• Foam fuel tank collar• Plywood servo tray• Plywood servo tray support• 2 Plastic landing gear straps• 2 Landing gear struts• 4-3 x 15mm S/T screws
Servo tray supportServo tray
Servo tray support
Servo tray
Throttle servo
Rudder servo
Elevator servo
Wide tabs
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Installing the servo tray
❑ 4. Mix 1/8oz. (3.5ml) of 6-minute epoxy to glue theservo tray into the fuselage. Note the direction of theservo tray before installing. The single servo cut-out ispositioned toward the nose of the plane. Apply epoxy toall fuselage parts that will come in contact with the servotray. Install the plywood servo tray into the fuselage withthe switch cut out facing the front of the plane.
Installing the wing dowels
❑ 5. The wing dowel holes are predrilled. Locate thefour round holes, two on each side of the fuselage,and remove the covering over each hole. Caution: Donot cut-out the rectangular switch holes in the side ofthe fuselage. Insert both 5" wooden dowels so thatthey protrude equal amounts on both sides. Mix1/4oz. (7.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy to lightly seal thedowels that are protruding from the outside of thefuselage. This will keep fuel from soaking into thewooden dowels. With the remainder of the epoxy,secure the dowels in place by applying epoxy on thedowel from the inside of the fuselage next to thefuselage wall.
Wing dowels installed
❑ 6. The front wing dowel should measureapproximately 5/8" (15.5 mm) on each side of thefuselage. The rear dowel should measureapproximately 3/4" (19mm) on each side. These wingdowels along with #64 rubber bands will be used tohold the wing in place.
Constructing the tail section
❑ 7. Locate the horizontal stabilizer slot under thecovering on the tail section of the fuselage by pressinglightly with your finger. The slot will be located onboth sides of the tail. Using a hobby knife, carefullyremove the covering exposing the slots. Note: Do notcut into the balsa wood sheeting around the slot.
Servo tray installed
Wing dowel holes
Wing dowelsSwitch hole forward
14
Installing the plywood stab mount
❑ 8. Locate the 1/8" (3mm) triangular plywoodstabilizer mount and test fit the mount into thebottom of the horizontal stabilizer slot. Lightly sandthe mount if necessary to obtain a proper fit.
Gluing the mount in place❑ 9. Mix 1/8oz. (3.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy to gluethe stabilizer mount into place. Using a mixing stick,apply a generous amount of glue into the slot andposition the stabilizer mount inside the slot on thebottom side. The stabilizer mount should be pressedfirmly into position. Remove any excess epoxy thatremains on the top of the stabilizer mount as well ason the outside of the fuselage using a paper towel andrubbing alcohol.
Removing the tail post
❑ 10. Located at the rear of the fuselage, behind thehorizontal stabilizer slot are two balsa tail posts.These posts are left for building alignment andfuselage construction guides. Both of these postsmust be removed in order to insert the horizontalstabilizer. Using a sharp hobby knife, cut the postseven with the slot as shown in the picture.
Vertical stabilizer slot covering
❑ 11 Using your finger, locate the vertical stabilizerslot on the top of the fuselage. Remove the coveringwith a hobby knife in the same manner as for thehorizontal stabilizer slots. This will allow better viewingaccess when centering the horizontal stabilizer.
Finding the centerline
❑ 12. Locate the horizontal stabilizer and draw acenterline on the side with the three color decals.Insert the stabilizer into the tail section with the lineshowing through the vertical stabilizer slot.
View centerline from slot
Vertical stabilizer slot
15
Tracing the fuselage outline
❑ 13. Using a felt-tip pen, trace a line around the tailof the airplane on the top and bottom of thehorizontal stabilizer.
Removing the covering
❑ 14. Using a hobby knife, cut inside the lines madewith a felt-tip pen and remove the covering from thecenter of the horizontal stabilizer. Do not cut into thebalsa sheeting on the horizontal stabilizer.
Preparing to install the stabilizer
❑ 15. Attach a piece of string with a pin to the centerline as shown. The string should be a minimum of 31-1/2" (800mm) in length. Stretch the string to thecorner of the horizontal stabilizer. The distance fromthe pin to the horizontal stabilizer must be the same onboth sides. This method will adjust the horizontalstabilizer to a 90Þ angle to the centerline of the aircraft.
Installing the stabilizer❑ 16. Mix 1/4oz. (7.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy to installthe horizontal stabilizer. Using a mixing stick, placeglue inside the horizontal stabilizer slot on all sidesincluding the horizontal stabilizer mount. Insert thehorizontal stabilizer and clean off the excess epoxythat squeezes out of the joint with a paper towel andrubbing alcohol. Adjust alignment as shown in theprevious step. Set the fuselage aside to cure.
Preparing the vertical stabilizer
❑ 17. Locate the vertical stabilizer. Draw a line onboth sides even with the bottom of the fin.
Removing the covering
❑ 18. Cutting below the line and through thecovering only, remove the covering from the base ofthe vertical fin. DDoo nnoott cut into the balsa fin root.
Centerline Attach string herewith a pin
String String
Installing the vertical stabilizer
❑ 19. Mix 1/4oz. (7.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy to gluethe vertical stabilizer in place. Using a mixing stick,apply epoxy to the top of the horizontal stabilizerthrough the vertical stabilizer slot. Apply epoxy to thesides and bottom surfaces of the fin base that havebalsa wood exposed. Insert the vertical stabilizer intothe slot, making sure the fin root is seated firmly onthe horizontal stabilizer. Check for a perpendicularangle between the fin and the stabilizer when viewedfrom the front. It is critical that the fin remainsperpendicular while the epoxy is curing. T-pins ormasking tape may be required to hold the fin duringthis time.
The stabilizers installed
Check the elevator❑ 20. The CA hinges in your plane are preglued andmust not be removed. Check the elevator hinges to besure that they are secure. Gently tug on the controlsurface at each hinge location. If any of them seemloose, reglue them as described on page 10.
Check the rudder❑ 21. Check the rudder hinges to be sure that they aresecure. Gently tug on the control surface at each hinge
location. If any of them seem loose, reglue them asdescribed on page 10.
Rudder and elevator move freely
Locations of the control horns
❑ 22. Notice the locations and alignment of thecontrol horns in both the photo and the illustrationbefore marking and drilling.
Control horn alignment
16
Rudder control horn
Elevator control horn
Stabilizer centerline
3/4"
3/4"
Attaching the rudder control horns
❑ 22. Locate the nylon control horns on the plasticparts tree. Position the nylon control horn on theleading edge and 3/4" (19mm) from the bottom of therudder. Mark the two holes with a felt-tip pen. Thecontrol horn will be centered directly over the lowerrudder hinge.
❑ 23. The holes of the control horn should line-upwith the gap between the rudder and the verticalstabilizer.
Mounting the control horns
❑ 24. Drill two 1/16" (1.6mm) holes through the balsarudder and the lower hinge. Insert both 2 x 20mmmachine screws through the control horn, rudder andlower hinge into the control horn back plate on theopposite side of the rudder. Tighten the screws but donot crush the balsa.
Installing the elevator horn❑ 25. Locate the elevator nylon control horn on theplastic parts tree. Place the control horn on thebottom side of the elevator 8-7/8" (225mm) from theend of the elevator (opposite side of the ruddercontrol horn) and mark the two holes with a felt-tippen. Drill two 1/16" (1.6mm) holes through theelevator. With two machine screws 2mm x 20mmattach the control horn .
Locating the rudder exit hole❑ 26. The precut rudder pushrod exit hole is locatedon the same side as the rudder control horn, underthe covering, 2" (50.5mm) in front of the rudder onthe top of the fuselage. Locate the exit hole by gentlyrunning your finger down the top of the fuselage.
Removing the covering
❑ 27. Using a hobby knife, remove the covering fromthe rudder pushrod exit hole. Do not remove thecovering from the exit hole on the opposite side.
Cutting the elevator exit hole
❑ 28. The precut elevator pushrod exit hole is locatedon the same side of the fuselage as the elevatorcontrol horn, beneath the covering 1/2" (12.5mm) infront of the horizontal stabilizer. Locate the exit holeby gently running your finger down the side of thefuselage over the covering. Using a hobby knife,remove the covering from the elevator pushrod exithole. Do not remove the covering from the exit holeon the opposite side of the fuselage.
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Actual Size
Control Horn
Control HornBack Plate (2)
20mm ThreadedScrew (4)
Actual Sizes
Rudder Pushrod Exit Hole
Installing the landing gear
❑ 29. On the bottom of the fuselage, 12-1/2" (318mm)from the engine compartment, there is a channellocated under the covering. Locate this channel byrunning your finger over the covering on the bottomof the fuselage. Using a hobby knife remove thecovering from this channel.
Installing the struts
❑ 30. Place a small bead of silicone sealant in thelanding gear channel. Locate the two chromedlanding struts and place them in the predrilled holesinside the channel on the bottom side of the fuselage.There are two nylon landing gear straps located onthe plastic parts tree. Remove these straps and placethem over the landing gear struts. Using a felt-tip pen,mark the location of the strap mounting holes ontothe bottom of the fuselage.
Drilling the fuselage
❑ 31. Drill the four holes using a 1/16" (1.6 mm)drill bit.
Mounting the struts
❑ 32. Using four 3 x 15mm self tapping screws, fastenthe landing gear straps to the bottom of the fuselageover the struts. The struts should be flush with thebottom of the fuselage.
Mounting the wheels
❑ 33. Locate two 3/4" x 2-1/4" (19 x 57mm) foamwheels and four 5/32" (4mm) wheel collars. Place onewheel collar on each strut, followed by one wheel.Secure each wheel with an additional wheel collar,making a total of two on each strut, one on the insideand one on the outside of the wheel.
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Landing Gear Strap(2)
Actual Size
3x15mm Screws(4)
Actual Size
Wheel Collar(4)
Actual Sizes
2 x 5mm Screw(4)
Assembling the front steering
❑ 34. There is a flat area on the stem of the steeringgear for the front wheel. Place the black plastic nosegear control horn on the steering stem with thesteering horn arms next to the coil. Tighten the screwon the control horn firmly against the flat area on thestem.
Installing the nose gear
❑ 35. Mount a wheel on the nose gear using one5/32" (4mm) wheel collar. Insert the nose gear steminto the black plastic nose gear holding bracket on thefuselage fire wall. Place a 5/32" (4mm) wheel collarbetween the plastic bracket and motor mount. Slidethe nose gear stem through the bracket and collar intothe motor mount. Leave a 7/16" (11mm) spacebetween the control horn and mounting bracket. Lockthe collar by tightening the phillips head screw on theside of the collar.
Steering pushrod exit hole
❑ 36 Using a felt-tip pen, place a mark 5/16" (8mm)from the engine compartment and 1" (25.5mm) fromthe side of the fuselage on the bottom of the fuselage.
Drilling the exit hole
❑ 37. Using a 1/8" (3.2mm) bit, drill a hole at a 70angle into the fuselage. It is important that the plasticguide tube exit the fuselage at a shallow angle toprevent binding of the control rod. Leave 3/8"(9.5mm) protruding through the bottom of thefuselage. Wick thin CA around the pushrod guidetube. Trim the tube to a beveled angle flush with thebottom of the fuselage.
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Nose Gear ControlHorn(1)
Actual Size
Nose gear bracketWheel Collars
Flat area
Installing the pushrod
❑ 38. Locate the 17-3/4" (450mm) wire control rodand make a 1/4" (6mm) Z-bend on one end of therod. Run the control rod through the plastic guidetube in the fuselage and insert the Z-bend into theinside hole of the steering control horn from the topside when the plane is right-side up.
Throttle control guide
❑ 39. Insert the plastic pushrod guide tube into thepredrilled hole in the engine compartment firewall.Leaving 1/4" (6mm) of the tube showing, glue thethrottle control tube into the firewall using thin CA.
Insert the control rod
❑ 40. Insert the wire control rod into the guide tube,leaving 1/2" (12.5mm) exposed.
Fuel tank assembly
❑ 41. Locate the three aluminum tubes that are usedin the fuel tank. The longest one will be used as thepressure line.
Bending the pressure line
❑ 42. Being careful not to kink the tube, bend one endof the tube to a 90 angle. It may be helpful to find arigid object that can be used as a form to bend the tubearound. Leave 1-1/2" (38mm) of straight tube at oneend so it can easily be inserted through the tank plug.
Assembling the tank plug
❑ 43. Locate the plastic plug discs (2). Push thealuminum tubes through the smaller stopper disc andthe back of the rubber plug. Place the larger stopperdisc on the opposite side and insert the 3 x 18mm selftapping screw through the larger disc, rubber plugand then into the smaller disc. Do not tighten thescrew at this time.
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3 x 18mm Screw (1)
Actual Size
Pushrod guidetube
Control rod
Final fuel tank assembly
❑ 44. Locate the metal fuel pick-up weight and themedium silicone fuel tubing. Insert the fuel pick-upweight (often referred to as the “clunk weight”)intothe fuel tubing. Compare the length of the fuel tank tothe length of the fuel tubing and cut the tubing so thatthe fuel pick-up weight on the end of the fuel tubingwill not touch the end of the fuel tank. The plugassembly can now be inserted into the tank. Thepressure tube should be adjusted so the tube ispointed straight up just under the top of the tank.Caution: The pressure tube should not touch the topof the tank or fuel shut off and engine failure mayoccur. The stopper discs on the rubber plug can betightened by turning the self tapping screw. Do notovertighten the plastic stopper plates or damage tothe tank may occur.
Installing the foam collar
❑ 45. Locate the 1/4" x 7/8" (6 x 22mm) foam tankcollar. Remove the inner foam circle and place thecollar around the neck of the fuel tank.
Installing the tank
❑ 46. Insert the fuel tank into the fuselage as shownin the picture. Make sure the foam collar is seated wellagainst the firewall.
Orientation of the fuel ports
❑ 47. Note the locations of the fuel ports. Cut threefuel line lengths,(pressure line 4-1/2" (114mm),carburetor line 4" (101mm), fill line 2-1/2" (63.5mm)from the medium silicone fuel line. Place the cut fuellines over the correct tubes. A small piece of scrapplywood should be lightly glued behind the fuel tankinside the fuselage to keep it from moving. Do not usean excessive amount of glue in case the fuel tankneeds to be removed in the future .
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Fuel tank
Fuel line pick-up weight
Pressure lineFill Line
Carburetor line
Mounting the engine
❑ 1. The picture shows an O.S. 40 FP enginemounted. Mount the engine by using two enginemounting brackets, four 4 x 15mm screws, four 4mmlock washers, and four 4mm nuts. The enginecenterline must be inline with the fuselage centerline.Place the engine on the mount and secure the enginewith the engine brackets. The lock washers should belocated on top of the bracket under the head of thescrew. The screws are secured by four 4mm nuts.Note: Thread locking compound is recommended foruse on the engine mounting screws.
Attaching the muffler
❑ 2. Locate the muffler and mount it to the engine byusing two 3 x 30mm machine screws. The exhaust outletshould be pointing down and away from the fuselage.
Running the fuel line
❑ 3. Run the fuel lines to the proper locations on theengine (fuel pick-up to the carburetor, pressure lineto the muffler, and fill line on the same side as the fuelpick-up line).The fill line should be plugged with a3mm screw (not included).
Installing the pushrod connector
❑ 4. Remove the wire control rod from the plasticguide tube. Slide a pushrod connector on one end ofthe rod, leaving 1/4" (6mm) extending past theconnector. Tighten the screw located on theconnector using a standard screwdriver.
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Engine Installation What you'll need –Parts in this kit ...Plus, these general items:
• Fuel line • Standard screwdriver• Spinner • Phillips screwdriver• 2-2 x 12mm S/T screws • Needle nose pliers• 2 Engine mounting brackets • Thread locking compound• 4-4 x 15mm screws • 10mm wrench• 4-4mm lock washers • 3mm screw• 4-4mm nuts • Pushrod connector
Pushrod Connector
Actual Size
Carb line
Pressure line
Fill line
Engine mounting bracket
Pushrod connector
Engine MountingBracket(2), Bolt(4),Washer(4), Nut(4)
Actual Sizes
Connecting the throttle
❑ 5. Slide the throttle control rod into the plasticguide tube. Insert the stem of the pushrod connectorinto the outside hole on the throttle control horn.Place the retaining clip or ring on the stem and presson with needle nose pliers.
Engine and control rod installed
Mounting the propeller and spinner
❑ 6 Remove the 5.5mm nut and washer from thedrive shaft of the engine. Locate the plastic spinnerand place the backplate of the spinner on the driveshaft as illustrated in the picture. Note: It might benecessary to enlarge the hole in the spinner backplatefor a proper fit over the engine shaft. Place the washerand nut back onto the shaft. The propeller must beseated in the spinner backplate correctly. Tighten thenut using a 10mm wrench.
Final spinner assembly
❑ 7. Place the spinner cone onto the backplate untilthey snap together. They must be aligned correctly forfor a proper fit. The spinner cone must not come incontact with the prop or fatigue and fracture of theprop may occur over a period of time. Insert both 2 x 12mm self tapping screws into the spinner andtighten firmly.
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2 x 12mm S/TScrew (2)
Actual Size
Spinner cone
Spinner backplatePushrod Connector
Removing the covering
❑ 1. Locate the precut rectangular switch hole on theinside of the fuselage as shown in the picture. Removethe covering from the hole using a hobby knife.
Installing the switch
❑ 2. Locate the receiver switch harness in the radiosystem and remove the face plate. Place the switchinto the hole with the switch facing outward. Put theface plate over the switch and mark the screw holeswith a felt-tip marker using the plate as a template.Drill the screw mounting holes using a 1/16" (1.6mm)drill bit. Install the switch from the inside of thefuselage with the "on" position toward the rear of theplane. If the switch would get hit, it would not turnthe receiver off. Secure the switch using the twoscrews supplied with the switch.
Assembling the servos
❑ 3. Remove the servo arms and wheels from thethree servos. Install the rubber grommets that camewith the radio system onto the servos, following themanufacturer's instructions.
Servo installation
❑ 4 Install the three servos from your radio system asshown in the picture. Refer to the radio manufacturer'smanual for more detailed instructions. Notice thelocation and orientation of each servo as well as theswitch location.
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Radio Installation What you’ll need –Parts in this kit
• Elevator pushrod • Foam rubber• Rudder pushrod • Wing saddle tape...Plus, these general items: • Pushrod connector• CA+ glue • Hobby knife• Needle nose pliers • Masking tape• Felt-tip marker • #64 Rubber bands• Phillips screwdriver • T-Pins• Portable drill • 1/16" drill bit• Servo tape • Control surface gaugeSwitch Hole
Rubber Grommets
Switch
Rudder servo
Throttle servo
Elevator servo
Front
Receiver and battery installation
❑ 5. Wrap the receiver and battery pack in foamrubber using rubber bands or masking tape to holdthe foam in place. The battery pack wire harness,receiver wire connecting block end and antennashould be left accessible. Plug the battery pack intothe switch and the switch into the receiver. The servosshould be plugged into the correct position on thereceiver connecting block before final receiverinstallation. Connect the aileron servo extensionconnecting wire to the receiver connecting block.Refer to the manufacturer's manual for more detailedinstructions. Secure the battery pack and receiver inthe fuselage using servo tape. The picture showsinstallation without foam for visual clarity.
Drilling the fuselage
❑ 6. Drill a 1/16" (1.6mm) exit hole in the center ofthe rear window 1"(25.5mm) down from the edge ofthe radio compartment. Route the antenna under theplywood servo tray and up through the exit hole. Tie aknot in the antenna before it is fed through the exithole to keep it from being pulled out of the receiver.DDoo nnoott cut the antenna wire. The receiver is tuned toa specific length of antenna.
Securing the antenna
❑ 7. Use a medium T-pin to attach a #64 rubber bandto the top portion of the vertical stabilizer. Tie theantenna to the rubber band using tension to keep theantenna tight. Use caution not to damage theantenna. A servo horn can be cut and used to hold theantenna in place with less likelihood of damage to theantenna wire.
Idle throttle position
❑ 8. With the radio system on, move the throttle stickdown (idle position) and the throttle trim up. All othertrim and stick controls should be moved to theirneutral positions.
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Antenna exit hole
Antenna tab
Antenna tab
Throttle servo linkage
❑ 9. Locate the round servo horn and install thepushrod connector in the hole 3/8" (9.5mm) from thecenter of the servo horn following the proceduredescribed in Step #5, engine installation. Slide thethrottle control rod through the pushrod connector.Gently press the servo horn onto the throttle servo sothat the pushrod connector is positioned at about 40Þto the rear of the plane as shown above.
Throttle linkage adjustment
❑ 10. Pull on the throttle control rod while viewingthe opening in the top of the carburetor. Leave thethrottle open about 1/16" (1.5mm) and secure thethrottle pushrod in the pushrod connector. Then cut-off the excess pushrod 1/4" (6.3mm) past the pushrodconnector.
Full throttle control movement
Idle throttle control movement
The throttle servohorn should move40Þto the rear.
For idle speed, movethe throttle stick backwith the throttle trimforward.
The carburetorshould be completelyopen.
The throttle servohorn should moveforward to about 40Þ.
For full throttle,move the throttlestick and trimforward. If the servohorn moves in thewrong direction,switch the reversingswitch for the throttleon the transmitter oruse a reversedrotation servo.
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40°
40°
40°
Engine shut-off
Decreasing throttle movement
❑ 11. If the throttle control rod moves too far it willbend slightly and the servo will make a noise of sometype. This will drain the receiver battery. To reducethe movement of the throttle control rod, move thepushrod connector closer to the center of the servohorn.
Increase throttle movement
❑ 12. To increase the movement of the throttlecontrol rod, move the pushrod connector on thethrottle arm closer to the mounting screw.
The carburetorshould be completelyclosed.
The throttle servohorn should be 45Þto the rear.
To stop the engine,move the throttlestick back and thethrottle trim back.
The carburetorshould be open only1/16" (1.5mm).
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45°
Preparing the pushrods
❑ 13. Locate the two wooden dowel pushrods andapply thick CA+ to both ends of the shrink tubing toinsure a proper bond between the dowel and themetal rod.
The elevator pushrod
❑ 14. Using the illustration as a guide make a Z-bendin the threaded rod on the elevator pushrod.
Taping the elevator
❑ 15. Use masking tape to hold the elevator in theneutral position while installing the pushrod andconnecting the servo linkage.
Install the pushrod
❑ 16. Insert the elevator pushrod through thefuselage and out the elevator exit hole. Find a nylonclevis on the plastic parts tree and thread the clevisonto the pushrod until the pushrod is visible on theinside of the clevis. Connect the clevis to the elevatorcontrol horn using the outer hole.
Connecting to the servo
❑ 17. Cut one arm from the servo horn to reduce thechance of interference with other control servos. Laythe control rod on the second hole 1/2" (12.5mm)from the center of the servo. Mark the control rod atthe hole location. Bend the rod down 90Þ and cut thecontrol rod 1/4" (6mm) after the bend. The controlrod may need to be removed from the fuselage tomake the bend. Be very careful of the relationshipbetween the "Z-bend" in the threaded rod and the 90Þbend. Insert the L-bend into the second hole 1/2"(12.5mm) from the center of the servo arm. Locate theretaining clevis and connect it to the control rod byslipping it over the 90Þ bend and clipping it onto thecontrol rod, the rod will protrude through the servoarm and retaining clevis.
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6-1/2"
1/2"
165mm
12.5mm
Neutral elevator
Up elevator
Down elevator
The servo hornshould move towardsthe front of theplane.
To lose altitude, ormake the plane godown, move theelevator stickforward.
The elevator willmove up as shownon the controlsurface gauge.
The servo hornshould move towardsthe rear.
To gain altitude, ormake the plane rise,move the elevatorstick back.
The elevator shouldbe in the neutralposition.
The elevator servohorn should be 90Þto the servo.
Cut-out the controlsurface gauge andglue it to a piece ofscrap cardboard. Forlevel flight, center theelevator stick.
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90°
Front
Rear
Elevator movement adjustment
or
❑ 18. If the elevator moves too far, move the controlrod closer to the center of the servo horn or fartherout on the elevator control horn. If the elevator doesnot move far enough, move the control rod farther outon the servo horn or closer to the elevator on theelevator control horn.
Tape the rudder
❑ 19. Use masking tape to hold the rudder in theneutral position while installing the pushrod andconnecting the servo linkage.
The rudder pushrod
❑ 20. Using the illustration as a guide, make a Z-bendin the threaded rod on the rudder pushrod.. Connecting the servo
❑ 21. Using the same technique as described in Step#17 (except use the whole servo horn) connect therudder control rod. Note: Make sure the steering gearis straight before marking the control wire. Positionthe steering control rod over the rudder servo horn onthe opposite side of the rudder linkage and mark therod above the inside hole 3/8" from the center of theservo horn. Cut the wire 1/4" longer than the markand then make a L-bend on the mark. Insert the wireinto the servo horn in the inside hole and place aretaining clevis on the connection as in previoussteps.
The elevator willmove down as shownon the controlsurface gauge.
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More control
Less control
More control
Less control
7"11/2"
Neutral Rudder Left turn
The rudder shouldmove to the left asshown on the controlsurface gauge.
The nose wheelshould turn left.
The rudder servohorn should rotatecounter clockwise.
To turn the planeleft, move the rudderstick to the left.
The rudder should beat neutral.
The nose wheelshould bestraight ahead.
The servo hornshould be 90Þ tothe servo.
With the rudder stickcentered, the planewill fly straight.
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90°
Right turn Taping the ailerons
❑ 22. Use masking tape to hold the ailerons in theneutral position while connecting the servo linkages.
Installing the aileron servo
❑ 23. Install the rubber grommets that came with theradio system on the servo, follow the manufacturer'sdirections. Insert the servo into the servo tray andsecure with four 2 x 15mm wood screws. Fasten a starservo horn onto the servo using the screw suppliedwith the servo. Cut the extra arms off so it forms a "V"shape. The ailerons need to move up farther than theydo down. This is called Aileron Differential and willhelp the airplane turn. Position the control rods overthe middle hole in the servo arm and mark the wirewith a felt-tip marker. Cut the wire leaving 1/4" pastthe mark. Connect the rods with retaining clevises asdescribed in previous steps.
Attach the wing saddle tape
❏ 24. Apply a piece of wing saddle tape to each sideof the wing saddle to prevent oil from the exhaustfrom entering the fuselage.
The rudder shouldmove to the right asshown on the surfacecontrol gauge.
The nose wheelshould move to theright.
The rudder servohorn should rotateclockwise.
To turn the planeright, move therudder stick to theright.
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Mounting the wing
❑ 25. Connect the aileron servo to the receiver byusing an aileron extension, usually provided with theradio system.
Straight level flight
Left roll
The left aileron willmove up as shownon the surfacecontrol gauge. Theright aileron willmove down.
The aileron servohorn should rotateclockwise.
To roll the plane tothe left, move theaileron stick to the left.
The ailerons shouldbe at neutral.
The aileron servohorn arms should beequal on both sides.
For straight and levelflight, the aileronstick should becentered.
33
34
Right roll Adjusting amount of aileron throw
or
❑ 26. If the ailerons do not move far enough, movethe aileron control rods farther out on the servo hornor move the aileron control horns farther down on theaileron torque rods. If the ailerons move too far, movethe aileron control rods closer to the center of theaileron servo horn or move the aileron control hornhigher on the aileron torque rods.
The left aileronshould move downas shown on thesurface controlgauge. The rightaileron should move up.
The aileron servohorn should rotatecounter clockwise.
To roll the plane tothe right, move theaileron stick to theright.
Balance your model!Balancing your model is an important part ofpreparing your model for flight and must not beomitted. A model that is not properly balanced will beunstable and possibly unflyable. Your model shouldbe balanced prior to its first flight with the aircraft inbasically flight ready condition and with the fuel tankempty. In other words, all construction should becomplete, the on-board radio system should beinstalled and the wing attached. The model isbalanced by supporting it at two points on theunderside of the wing, one on each side of thefuselage, approximately 3-3/4" back from the leadingedge of the wing. A pair of soft pencil erasers makegood points to support the model and will not markthe bottom of the wing or let it slip loose. Whilesupporting the plane at the assigned points, makesure that the plane balances horizontally. If the modelfails to rest in a level position, weight will need to be
moved or added to achieve a proper balance. Beforeadding weight to your model, first try repositioningthe on-board receiver battery to balance the plane. Aweighted propeller hub is effective in balancingmodels that need weight in the nose. There are alsostick-on lead weights available that are good for finaladjustments to the balance. A poorly balanced modelcan be dangerous to fly. A nose-heavy model is verysluggish and slow to respond to control inputs. A tail-heavy model can become so sensitive that is isuncontrollable. Do not attempt to fly your modelwithout balancing it carefully.
Balance point
3-3/4"
Ailerons – Hinged control surfaceslocated on the trailing edge of thewing, one on each side, whichprovide control of the airplaneabout the roll axis. The controldirection is often confusing to firsttime modelers. For a right roll orturn, the right hand aileron ismoved upward and the left handaileron downward, and vice versafor a left roll or turn.
Canard – A unique type of airplane,in which the wing is located nearthe back of the fuselage and thehorizontal stabilizer is located atthe nose of the fuselage.
Carburetor – The part of theengine which controls the speedor throttle setting and lean/richmixture via setting of the needlevalve.
CG (Center of Gravity) – Formodeling purposes, this is usuallyconsidered the point at which the
airplane balances fore to aft. Thispoint is critical in regards to howthe airplane reacts in the air. Atail-heavy plane will be verysnappy but generally veryunstable and susceptible to morefrequent stalls. If the airplane isnose heavy, it will tend to trackbetter and be less sensitive tocontrol inputs, but will generallydrop its nose when the throttle isreduced to idle. This makes theplane more difficult to land sinceit takes more effort to hold thenose up. A nose heavy airplanewill have to come in faster to landsafely.
Chamfer – To slightly round-off orbevel a corner.
Charge Jack – The plug receptacleof the switch harness into whichthe charger is plugged to chargethe airborne battery. An expandedscale voltmeter (ESV) can also beplugged into it to check battery
voltage between flights. It isadvisable to mount the chargejack in an accessible area of thefuselage so an ESV can be usedwithout removing the wing.
Charger – Device used to rechargebatteries and usually suppliedwith the radio if NiCd batteries areincluded.
Chicken Stick – A hand-held stickused to flip start a model airplaneengine.
Clevis – A small clip which isthreaded or soldered onto the wireend of a pushrod and connects thepushrod to the control horn of acontrol surface. The threads allowfine adjustment of length of thepushrod.
Clunk – A weighted fuel pick-upused in a fuel tank to assure theintake line is always in fuel.
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Glossary of Terms
Computer Radio – A radio controlunit in which the transmitter hasseveral advanced functions whichcan be programmed completely tofine tune an airplane withoutmaking mechanical changes.
Control Horn – The arm which isattached to a control surface at thehingeline and is connected to apushrod.
Dead Stick – A term used todescribe unpowered flight (glide)when the engine quits running.
Differential Throw – Ailerons thatare set up to deflect more in theupward direction than downwardare said to have “DifferentialThrow.” The purpose is tocounteract “Adverse Yaw.”
Dihedral – The V-shaped bend inthe wing. Typically, more dihedralcauses more aerodynamic stabilityin an airplane and causes therudder to control both roll andyaw axis. This is why sometrainers and sailplanes requireonly 3-channels of radio control—i.e., having no ailerons.
Ding – Minor dent or damage tothe structure. Also, a nick in aprop. Dinged props must bereplaced.
Down Thrust – Downward angleof the engine relative to thecenterline of the airplane. Downthrust helps overcome the normalclimbing tendency of flat bottomwings.
Electric Starter – A hand-heldelectric motor used for starting amodel airplane engine. Usuallypowered by a 12-volt battery.
Elevator – Hinged control surfacelocated at the trailing edge of thehorizontal stabilizer, whichprovides control of the airplaneabout the pitch axis and causesthe airplane to climb or dive. Thecorrect direction of control is topull the transmitter elevatorcontrol stick back, toward thebottom of the transmitter, tomove the elevator upward, whichcauses the airplane to climb andvice versa to dive.
Epoxy – A two-part resin/hardenerglue that is extremely strong. It isgenerally available in 6 and 30-minute formulas. Used forcritical points in the aircraft wherehigh strength is necessary.
Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV) –Device used to read the batteryvoltage of the on-board batterypack or transmitter battery pack.
Field Charger – A fast batterycharger designed to work from a12-volt power source, such as acar battery.
Flaps – Hinged control surfacelocated at the trailing edge of thewing inboard of the ailerons. Theflaps are lowered to produce moreaerodynamic lift from the wing,allowing a slower takeoff andlanding speed. Flaps are oftenfound on scale models, but usuallynot on basic trainers.
Flare – The point during thelanding approach in which thepilot gives an increased amount ofup elevator to smooth thetouchdown of the airplane.
Flight Box – A special box used tohold and transport all equipmentused at the flying field.
Flight Pack (or Airborne pack) –All of the radio equipmentinstalled in the airplane, i.e.,Receiver, Servos, Battery, SwitchHarness.
Flutter – A phenomenon wherebythe elevator rudder or aileroncontrol surface begins to oscillateviolently in flight. This cansometimes cause the surface tobreak away from the aircraft andcause a crash. There are manyreasons for this, but the mostcommon are excessive hinge gapor excessive “slop” in the pushrodconnections and control horns. Ifyou ever hear a low-pitchedbuzzing sound, reduce throttleand land immediately.
Frequency Control – The FCC hasallowed the 72MHz band to beused for R/C aircraft operations.This band is divided up into manydifferent channels in which youcan choose a radio system. Youshould be aware that certain areashave frequencies in which there ispager interference. This is why it isalways a wise move to check withyour local hobby shop to find outany channels that may betroublesome in the area you wishto fly.
Fuel Overflow Line (Vent) – Thefuel line is either open toatmospheric pressure or attachesto the muffler pressure nipple topressurize the fuel tank for betterfuel flow to the engine. This is theline through which the fuel willoverflow when the tank is full.
Fuel Pick-Up Line – The fuel linein the fuel tank through which fueltravels to the carburetor. Typicallya flexible tube with a weight or“Clunk” on the end which allows it
36
to follow the fuel with changes inaircraft attitude. This is the linethrough which the tank is filled.
Fuselage – The body of anairplane.
Glitch – Radio problem that neverhappens unless you are over treesor a swamp.
Glow Plug – The heat source forigniting the fuel/air mixture in theengine. When starting the enginea battery is used to heat thefilament. After the engine isrunning, the battery can beremoved. The wire filament insidethe plug is kept hot by the“explosions” in the engine’scylinder. See next heading and“idle bar plug.”
Glow Plug Clip/Battery – A 1.2-voltbattery, which is connected to theglow plug on a model airplaneengine for starting. The battery isremoved once the engine is running steadily.
Grease-in – A very smooth, gentlelanding without a hint of abounce.
Hit (or to be hit) – Sudden radiointerference which causes yourmodel to fly in an erratic manner.Most often caused by someoneturning on a radio that is on yourfrequency, but can be caused byother radio sources miles away.
Horizontal Stabilizer – Thehorizontal tail surface at the backof the fuselage which providesaerodynamic pitch stability to theairplane.
Idle Bar Plug – This type of glowplug has a “bar” across the tip tohelp prevent raw fuel from being
splashed onto the glow element.Too much raw fuel will cool theplug and prevent it from ignitingthe fuel/air mixture. An idle bar isa help in obtaining a low idlespeed.
Lateral Balance – The left-right orside-to-side balance of anairplane. An airplane that islaterally balanced will track betterthrough loops and othermaneuvers.
Leading Edge (LE) – The very frontedge of the wing or stabilizer. Thisis the edge that hits the air first.
Muffler – A device attached to theexhaust stack of the engine toreduce noise and increase back-pressure which helps low speedperformance. Note: Most R/CClubs require the use of mufflers.
Muffler Baffle – A restrictor plateinside the muffler which reducesengine noise. This plate can beremoved to increase power, butonly if there are no noiserestrictions where you fly.
Needle Valve – Adjustment on acarburetor used to set properfuel/air mixture. Some carburetorshave separate needle adjustmentsfor low and high throttle.Typically, turning the needleadjustment clockwise (screwingin) leans the mixture (less fuel)and vice versa. However, there are a few exceptions—refer to theengine manufacturer’s instructions.
NiCd – Nickel Cadmium battery.Rechargeable batteries which aretypically used as power for radiotransmitters and receivers.
Nitro (Nitromethane) – A fueladditive which increases a model
engine’s ability to idle low andimproves high speed performance.Ideal nitro content varies fromengine to engine. Refer to theengine manufacturer’s instructionsfor best results. Nitro content infuel is indicated by the percent ofthe fuel.
Ni-starter – A self-containedbattery and glow plug clip, usedwhen starting the engine. See“glow plug clip.”
One-point landing (or a figure 9)– Synonymous with “stuffing itin.” Something we hope you neverdo.
Pitch Axis – The airplane axiscontrolled by the elevator. Pitch isillustrated by holding the airplaneat each wing tip. Raising orlowering the nose is the pitchmovement. This is how the climbor dive is controlled.
Power Panel – 12-volt distributionpanel that provides correct voltagefor accessories like glow-plugclips, fuel pumps and electricstarters. Usually mounted on afield box and connected to a 12-volt battery.
Prop Pitch – Props are designatedby two numbers, for instance 10 -6. The first number is the prop’slength, 10". The second number isthe pitch or angle of the blades.The 6 represents the distance thepropeller will move forward in onerevolution, in this case 6".
Re-Kitting Your Airplane –Changing your finished modelback into a kit, as a result of“stuffing it in.”
Receiver (Rx) – The radio unit inthe airplane which receives the
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transmitter signal and relays thecontrol to the servos. This issomewhat similar to the radio youmay have in your familyautomobile, except the radio inthe airplane perceives commandsfrom the transmitter, while theradio in your car perceives musicfrom the radio station.
Roll Axis – The airplane axiscontrolled by the ailerons. Roll isillustrated by holding the airplaneby the nose and tail. Droppingeither wing tip is the rollmovement. This is used to bank orturn the airplane. Many aircraftare not equipped with aileronsand the Roll and Yaw motions arecontrolled by the rudder. This isone reason why most traineraircraft have a larger amount ofdihedral.
Root – See “Wing Root.”
Rudder – Hinged control surfacelocated at the trailing edge of thevertical stabilizer, which providescontrol of the airplane about theYaw Axis and causes the airplaneto Yaw left or right. Left ruddermovement causes the airplane toYaw left and right ruddermovement causes it to Yaw right.
Servo – The electro-mechanicaldevice which moves the controlsurfaces or throttle of the airplaneaccording to commands from thereceiver. The radio device whichdoes the physical work inside theairplane.
Servo Output Arm – Theremovable arm or wheel whichbolts to the output shaft of a servoand connects to the pushrod.
Shot down – A “hit” that results ina crash landing. Sometimescaused by radios miles away.
Slop – Unwanted, excessive freemovement in a control system.Often caused by a hole in a servoarm or control horn that is too bigfor the pushrod wire or clevis pin.This condition allows the controlsurface to move withouttransmitter stick movement. Also,see “flutter.”
Solo – Your first totally unassistedflight that results in a controlledlanding.
Spinner – The nose cone whichcovers the hub of the propeller.
Sport Airplane – A model whichpossesses some attributes of manyof the specialty airplanes and arebest for general flying as they arethe most versatile and durable.
Stall – What happens when theangle of attack is too great for thewing to generate lift regardless ofairspeed. When the wing cannotgenerate lift, the model “falls outof the sky” until sufficient airspeedis gained. Then, you can getcontrol of the model – this takesaltitude and should be avoidedupon takeoff! (Every airfoil has anangle of attack at which itgenerates maximum lift – theairfoil will stall beyond this angle).
Switch Harness – The on/offswitch for the flight pack which ismounted in an accessible locationon the fuselage.
Tachometer – An optical sensordesigned specifically to count lightimpulses through a turningpropeller and read out the engineRPM.
Throw – The distance a controlsurface (such as elevator, aileron,rudder) can travel. Throw is measured
at the trailing edge of the controlsurface.
Tip stall – The outboard end ofone wing (the tip) stopsdeveloping lift, causing the planeto roll suddenly in the direction ofthe stalled wing. This situation isnot fun when you are only a fewfeet off the runway trying to land.
Track – The path the model takesthrough the air or on the ground.
Trainer Airplane – A modeldesigned to be inherently stableand fly at low speeds, to give first-time modelers time to think andreact as they learn to fly.
Trailing Edge (TE) – The rearmostedge of the wing or stabilizer.
Transmitter (Tx) – The hand-heldradio controller. This is the unitthat sends out the commands thatyou input.
Transmitter Modes – Mode I. Lefthand stick controls elevator andrudder. Right hand stick controlsthrottle and aileron.
Mode II. Left hand stick controlsthrottle and rudder. Right handstick controls elevator andaileron. Mode II is by far the mostpopular in the Unites States.
Touch-and-go – Landing andtaking off without a pause. Oftenconfused with a good bounce.
Vertical Fin – The non-movingsurface that is perpendicular tothe horizontal stabilizer andprovides yaw stability. This is thesurface to which the rudderattaches.
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Washout – An intentional twist inthe wing, causing the wing tips tohave a lower angle of attack thanthe wing root. In other words, thetrailing edge is higher than theleading edge at the wing tips.Washout helps prevent tip stallsand helps the “PT” family oftrainers recover, hands-off, fromunwanted spiral dives.
Wheel Collar – A small, roundretaining device used to keep awheel from sliding off an axle.
Wing Loading – This is theamount of weight per square footthat has to be overcome to providelift. It is normally expressed inounces per square foot. Thisspecification can be easily
calculated as follows: If you knowthe square inches of the wing,simply divide by 144 to obtainsquare feet. Divide the totalweight (in ounces) of the airplaneby the wing area (in square feet).This information is valuable whendeciding on which airplane tobuild next. Planes with high wingloading numbers must fly faster tostay in the air. These are generally“performance” airplanes. Conversely,planes with lower numbers do notneed as much air flowing aroundthe wing to keep it flying. Glidersand trainer airplanes fall into thiscategory because slow, efficientflight is desirable.
Wing Root – The centerline of thewing, where the left and right wingpanels are joined.
Yaw Axis – The airplane axiscontrolled by the rudder. Yaw isillustrated by hanging the airplanelevel by a wire located at thecenter of gravity. Left or rightmovement of the nose is the Yawmovement.
Z-Bend – A simple Z-shaped bendin the wire end of a pushrod,which is used to attach thepushrod to a servo output arm.
Z-Bend Pliers –A plier type toolused for easily making perfect Z-bends.
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BUILDING NOTES
Kit Purchased Date:_____________________________
Where Purchased: ______________________________
Date Construction Started: ______________________
Date Construction Finished: _____________________
Finished Weight: _______________________________
Date of First Flight: _____________________________
FLIGHT LOG
