Dries Van Noten S/S 13 Paris Womenswear

The Look: Watercolor Plaid

Silhouette:A modest fitting with conservative boxy shouldered tops, baggy trousers, and cinched high-waisted belts.

Key Items:The undertone of the show was a refurbished modern version of “Grunge” with the inclusion of industrial jewelry, watercolor flower blossoms, mix and match plaids, as well as a flowey fit. An incorporation of sheers with attached bunching of flowers was seen, which created a raised appearance from the fabric. It brought a sense of modesty with conservative coverings and layering of the articles of clothing. An occasional skinny or ribbon-like belt sat at the highest and smallest cinch of the waist to give off a feminine shape. Muted and grayed hues struck true throughout each look. Embellishments came in the form of appliquéd metallic finished vintage flowers on mid-length skirts and over sized jackets.

Color:The shades kept to a muted and grayed-out field of tones. From raven with mocha to a watered down oxblood with a pop of the occasion orange, yellow or pink within the flowers and plaids. A hint at silver futuristic hardware effects and simple black and white checkers were all featured within the garments.

Fabric and Knit:Many of the textures displayed were glossy satins or see-through sheers. Also seen were crinkly, wrinkly, and tutu-like elements. Shimmers, small details of beads, sequins, and bunching together of 3D flowers that added to a thick raised from surface characteristic.

Print and Pattern:A showcase of plaids, slight geometrics, abstract blossoms, miniature checkers, and a few leopard additions were all prevalent factors within the collection.

Details and Trims:Thin ribbon trimmings at the ends of organza skirts, rouged flowers that added to the dimension of the flat textile, shimmering silver appliqués, gathering and bunching of the fabric in an asymmetrical manner.

Accessories:A clutch was held in every hand, many referencing hand-held boxes. Chunky and industrial necklaces hung low in the center of the bust or rested shorter as a choker. Metal and mirror-like pendants were attached at the end of silver chains. Thin tie belts sat at the high waist and tied at the side, rendering no buckles. Circular dark

lensed white frames were worn as eyewear. Wide silver bangles shared the same hardware elements as the necklaces.

Footwear:Pointed-toed heels with plaid prints or checkerboards represented the footwear well. Some integrated straps that added a bow-like feature to the kitten heel pumps.

Eras and Trends:The eras and trends seen throughout this runway were a bit of everything. The slouchy plaids and relaxed characteristics rubbed off of the 90’s “Grunge” scene. The usage of collars and billowing pants had connection with the 70’s generation. As well as the feminine high waist, shouldered tops, and mid-length shirts transcended the 50’s era. Also, the round-eyed eyewear was a less exaggerated take on 60’s lenses.