drafting men's pants pattern

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Drafting Men's Pants Pattern

Seam allowance is included . It is 0.60 cm (0.25 ")

Dr af ting the men' s pants f r ont patter n.

On a long piece of paper about 120.40 cmlong and 115.60 cm wide, draw a line downthe middle.Near the top, select a point and mark point 0.From 0 down to 1 is 107.40 cm .From 1 up measure up 77.00 cm to 2 .3 is midway between 1 and 2 ( 38.50 cm ).

4 from 3 is 5.20 cm (2.00 ") .Square out from points 0 , 2 , 4 , and 1 .5 from 2 is 18.18 cm .6 from 2 is 8.33 cm7 from 2 is 8.33 cmSquare up from 6 to locate 8 on line 0 Square out from 7 to locate 9 on line 6 10 from 9 is 0.60 cm (0.25 ")Draw line 8 - 10 .11 from 10 is 25.00 cm12 from 8 is 23.80 cm

13 and 14 from 4 is 12.00 cm15 and 16 from 1 is 12.00 cm17 from 1 is 5.20 cm (allowance for the cuff (if any) is included in this measurement).Square out from 17 .The waist line form 8 is squared by line 8 -10 until it is about 0.60 cm (0.25 ") belowline 8 - 12 . Then it curves gently into 12 .The fly fall (front rise) follows the straightline 8 - 10 and then makes a shallow curveinto 5 .Through 11 the outseam is vertical fromabout 2.60 cm (1.00 ") above to 1.30 cm(0.50 ") below. Continue upward, curving into12 .Shape the leg, making the inseam andoutseam vertical from the bottom to at least5.20 cm (2.00 ") above 15 and 16 andidentical to each other from the bottom tothe knee. Above the knee the inseam is anatural continuation, waiting until almost the



top to curve into 5 . The outseam alsocontinues naturally above 14 , easingoutward to meet the continuation downwardfrom 11 .Add notches (for assembly) at the followingpoints:

0 , 14 , 16 , 15 , and 13 .

In the outseam, 3.90 cm (1.50 ") belowthe waist edge, and again 16.25 cm(6.25 ") below that (for the frontpockets).In the fly fall about 3.90 cm (1.50 ") to6.50 cm (2.50 ") from the inseam: Putthe zero end of the tape measure 0.97cm (0.38 ") below the waist edge andmeasure along the fly fall 0.60 cm (0.25") in from the pattern outline. Cut the flnotch at the nearest whole inch, andthat will be the length of your pantszipper.

Drafting the pattern back guide .

The pattern back guide is used to determine

the slope of the back pattern piece.Draw horizontal lines 0 , 7 , and 2 the samdistance apart as on the pattern front.Near the right on line 2 mark point A .B from A is 30.20 cmSquare up from A and B to locate C and D

on line 0 .E from B is 26.40 cmThe distance between E and A should be3.80 cmF from C is 1.90 cmG from D is 1.90 cmDraw line A - F and locate point X where itcrosses the horizontal line 7 .H from F is 11.70 cm (4.50 ")From H square down 6.50 cm (2.50 ") tolocate J .K and L are each 0.60 cm (0.25 ") from H .Draw lines J - K and J - L (back dart).Draw line B - G and extend it 0.30 cm (0.12") to M .



From M square out to 0.30 cm (0.12 ")below the horizontal line 0 ; then curvegradually into K .From L to F draw a curve that dips 0.30 cm(0.12 ") below the straight line.Extend the straight lines M - B and F - A toseveral inches below line A - B , and cut outhe pattern back guide along the curved

lines M - K and L - F .Cut out the vee for the back dart, all theway to J .

Dr af ting the pants back patter n.

For the back pattern, use a piece of

paper about 141.20 cm long and 131.20cm wide, draw a line down the middle.Lay the front pattern piece on the paper,lining up the 0 - 1 line of the front withthe line on the paper, and draw around itIndicate notches and points 10 and 11 .Take away the front piece and labelpoints 5 , 13 , 14 , 15 , and 16 . Drawline 10 - 11 and extend it to the right.18 from 11 is 5.20 cm (2.00 ")Place point X on the patter n back guide

on point 18 on the paper. Using thecommon point as a pivot, swing the guideup until side M - B touches point 10 onthe paper.Draw around the guide above 10 and 18

X ). Label M and F .19 and 20 are 1.30 cm (0.50 ") from 13

and 14 .21 and 22 are 1.30 cm (0.50 ") from 15

and 16 .

23 from 5 is 5.17 cm , that is, half of thedistance from 7 to 2 plus 1.00 cm (0.38 ".23 from 19 is the same as 5 from 13 .The seat seam (back rise) follows thestraight line M - 10 , becomes a shallowcurve just outside the 10 - 5 curve of thefront, and runs through 5 into 23 ,finishing up straight for about the last2.60 cm (1.00 ") .From the bottom to the knee the inseam



lies 1.30 cm (0.50 ") outside the frontoutline. Above the knee it continuesnaturally, doing most of its curving into23 near the top.The outseam too is 1.30 cm (0.50 ")outside the front outline from the bottomto just above the knee. Then it easesoutward to pass through 18 and curve

just outside the F - 18 line into F .The bottom is in line with that of thefront.Cut out the pattern back, and cut kneeand bottom notches.

NOTES:

The seam allowance is 0.60 cm (0.25 ")The 3.90 cm (1.50 ") that was subtracted when applying theoutseam measurement (line 0 - 1 ) represents the finished widthof the waistband. It would seem that no seam was allowed forhere, but note that line 12 - 11 - 14 - 16 is curved, not straight,and thus is actually greater than the outseam. The seamallowance is included in this curvature.This also makes the outseam on the front piece slightly shorterthan the outseam in the back piece. This is a refinement found incustom-tailored pants. The outseam seam on the pants back is tbe eased between about mid-thigh to about mid-calf, making the

pants leg curving imperceptibly forward at the bottom.It was in locating point 18 that both seam allowance and easeare incorporated. Lines 10 - 11 on the front and 10 - 18 on theback together measure half the seat measurement plus 5.20 cm(2.00 ") .Only very tight pants need provision for dress . The term refers tthe side toward which a man places his intimate parts. A man issaid to "dress right" or "dress left". Most men dress left.Dress is allowed for by deflecting the fly seam away from the sidtoward which the man dresses. The fork of one pants front,usually the right, is reduced by about 1.30 cm (0.50 ")

[ Email me ][ Updated: 12:08:02 EDT 2012/05/03 ]

drafting men's pants pattern

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