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Unit 3
Jewelry and Watches
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From archaeological excavations, we have learned that jewels have been favored by humans since as early as 20,000 B.C. Materials such as shells, ivory and wood were crafted into imaginative ornamentation.
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Symbolic purposes of jewelry:
17th century England,
funeral rings were worn to
commemorate the deaths of
aristocracy.
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Jewelry is functional as well as an
adornment
Ex. Belts, Necklaces, Pins & Rings
Engagement rings
Wedding rings
Fraternal pins
School rings
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Historical Overview
Some of the earliest finds come
from Mesopotamia (region between
Syria & Iran) where hammered gold
and lapis lazuli stones were
discovered. The patterns included
leaf designs, flowers & animals
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Ancient Egypt jewelry featured animal
heads, the eye and the ankh.
700 B.C. Greece- simple gold and
silver jewelry that featured animal
heads and mythological figures.
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The great period of Chinese jewelry
was created from AD 960-1270.
Jade is the major precious ingredient
found in Chinese jewelry.
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During the Renaissance period of the
15th & 16th centuries elaborate
versions of religious symbols were
commonplace.
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17th century – Baroque featured grand
ornamental designs.
Ex. Faceting was used to increase
brilliance of the stones; and diamonds
overwhelming dominated the scene.
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18th century – Rococo style
underplayed the lavishness of
Baroque.
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19th century – Victorian England- new
technology:
Electroplating made jewelry
affordable.
Lockets and brooches were popular.
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20th century – Art Noveau themes:
Lilies, water, butterflies,
peacocks, women with long
flowing hair
Art Deco designs : geometric
patterns
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Native American jewelry types
include:
Bangle bracelets, earrings,
necklaces, belt buckles, and
brooches that combine metal
and stones.Each tribe contributes a specific style that represents its own culture.
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Sioux Tribe Lakota Tribe
Cherokee Tribe
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Designs included:
Squash blossom – necklaces
with silver beads and turquoise.
Navajo – heavy silver in
symmetrical patterns
Zuni – more delicate than
Navajo, using stones inlaid in metal
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Hopi – two layers of metal
joined with a design cut in the
top layer of metal to expose the
lower one.
Santo Domingo- primarily
beadwork
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Squash Blossom
Navajo
Zuni
Hopi
Santo Domingo
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Production Techniques
After the design has been conceived
and sketched, it is ready to be
transformed into a piece of jewelry.
Fusing – liquefying the metals and
joining them without the use of another
metal.
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Soldering – requires the use of a
separate metal that has a lower
melting point to join metallic parts.
Drawing – jewelers make thick
wires into thinner gauges.
Casting – this process involves
making a cast or mold into which
molten metals are forced.
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Stone Settings
Tiffany setting – is typically used
for stones that are to prominently
displayed without the intrusion of too
much metal.
•4-6 prongs in U-shaped openings
are used to hold a stone in place.https://youtu.be/3HOVVXdU_w0
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Illusion setting – is used to give
the impression that the stone it
holds is larger than its actual size.
It uses a metal border that features
a design that surrounds the prongs.
This patterned design creates the
illusion of a larger stone.
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Cluster setting – generally six
stones used to surround one in the
center.
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Pave setting – has extensive blank
areas that are tooled into little bead-
like surfaces that surround a number of
small stones (paved with stones) – gives
the surface a brilliant effect.
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Channel setting – the stones are
lined up next to each other with no
metal between them and set into
grooves or channels.
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Bezel setting – holds a stone in
place by a rim of metal that goes
around its entire perimeter.
Sometimes it is called a flush
setting.
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Buttercup head setting – has six
prongs that rise from a scalloped base
and resemble a flower bud. It is used
for pendants and earrings
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Paste settings – used for
inexpensive jewelry. The stones
are glued into the setting.
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Jewelry Styles
Rings – bands worn on
fingers
Marriage
Engagement
Graduation
Dinner or cocktail
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Bracelets
Bangle
Flexible
Charm
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Necklaces
Choker – the shortest necklace
Bibs – hug the base of the neck
Matinee – 22 -24 inches
Opera lengths – 30 -32 inches
Rope – 45 inches long and may be
wrapped around neck
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Stick pins – elongated decorative types
Brooches – Pins
Lapel pins – used on suit lapels
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Earrings
Clip–ons – screw backs grip the
ears Pierced – posts that pass
through the ear lobe.
Earring jackets – are made with
holes in their centers so that small
studs may be inserted in them.
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Watches – for other than military
use, watches achieved acceptance
in the mid 1800’s
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Mechanical watches – dates
back several hundred years.
•Mainspring barrel used
•Loud ticks
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For precision, use jeweled
movements. (eliminates the noise)
17 jewel movement – uses 17 jewels
as friction points on watches.
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Electronic – first electronic watch went
into production in 1956 – power cell
used.
Advantages
•Elimination of ticking sound
• Keeps better time than jewel movements
• Fewer parts
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Digital watches – a timepiece that uses
solid-state components instead of
moving parts and displays the actual
time whenever a button is pushed
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Quartz Watch- a timepiece that
has accuracy 10 times greater than
that of the conventional watch.