Download - SMV of Different Garments
1. Formal Shirt Operation Breakdown with SMV Details2. Casual Shirt3. Formal Trouser4. Casual Trouser5. Formal Jacket6. Casual Jackets7. Womens Top8. Denim
Operation Breakdown and SAM of the Full Sleeve Formal Mens Shirt Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 2031
Prior to defining SAM of the garment, detailed operation break-down is made by engineer. Both manual and machine operations are included in the operation list. Then a skilled operator is given to do operations one by one. 5 to 10 samples are studied. All operations are studied by GSD expert for motion analysis. At the same time all operations are videoed for future reference. Calculated SAM of the operations for a Formal Shirt has been shown in the following table. This has been defined by a GSD practitioner of a large size Indian garment export company using GSD software. The following SAM of each individual operation will help to understand how a shirts SAM reach up to a certain value. The SAM of the operation may vary according to the changes styling of the shirts, seam length, attachment and work aids used, motion sequence used by the operator and machine type.
Product: Full Sleeve Mens Formal Shirt. Brand: Arrow
Total Garment SAM: 22.32 minutes.Sl. No.Operation ListSAM
1Pinning to profile0.234
2Run stitch collar0.219
3Trim collar0.285
4Clip and turn collar0.223
5Crease collar0.381
6Top stitch collar0.42
7Run stitch (R/s) collar band0.291
8Crease collar band0.317
9Insert collar in neck band0.799
10Turn and crease collar0.452
11Attach bias piece to cuff0.874
12Crease cuff0.458
13Hem cuff0.501
14R/s cuff0.565
15Trim cuff0.36
16Turn cuff0.527
17Crease cuff bottom0.566
18Attach placket to sleeve0.795
19Lock and make diamond1.026
20Sew pleats (4 no.)0.389
21Hem right front0.494
22Attach front placket0.603
23Crease pocket0.542
24Hem pocket mouth0.28
25Attach pocket to front 0.861
26Attach brand label and tack loop0.589
27Crease patch pieces0.236
28Attach patch piece0.333
29Sew pleats0.278
30Attach yoke to back0.475
31Top stitch back yoke0.365
32Join shoulder0.64
33Top stitch shoulder0.656
34Attach collar0.535
35Close collar with size label1.01
36Sleeve attach0.862
37Top stitch armhole0.678
38Top stitch side seam1.036
39Attach & close cuff0.696
40Top stitch cuff0.524
41Hem bottom0.947
Total SAM22.322
Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Trouser Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 2729
The operation breakdown of a trouser with two front pocket and two back pocket has been given in the following table. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for yourreference. It may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Operations needed to make a trouser have been listed section wise. Machines that are used for the operations have been also mentioned in the table.
Trouser
Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart
Operation Breakdown and SMV of a TrouserTopics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar2729The operation breakdown of a trouser with two front pocket and two back pocket has been given in the following table. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for your reference. It may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Operations needed to make a trouser have been listed section wise. Machines that are used for the operations have been also mentioned in the table.
TrouserTable 1: Operation Breakdown Chart
Table 2: Abbreviation of machine name Table 2: Abbreviation of machine name
Operation Breakdown and SMVs of a Basic Jeans Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 2339
Operation breakdown of a 5 Pocket Basic Jeans is listed in this article. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for yourreference. SMVs may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used.
Some of operations are done by automatic machines, like auto pocket hemming (APH), auto pocket attaching (APS) etc. Machines that are used for the operations have been mentioned in third column (M/c type) of the following table.This Operation Breakdown has been taken from a Jeans manufacturing company in Vietnam.
5-Pocket Basic Jeans
Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart
Sl. no.OperationsM/C TypeSMV
Back
1pocket hemmingAPH0.07
2pocket o/l3T O/L0.3
3pocket creasingADPC0.4
4pocket attachingAPS0.74
5second stitch @ back pocketSNLS0.65
6back yoke attachFOA0.41
7back rise joinFOA0.24
8size label attachSNLS0.2
FrontSection
9coin pocket hemmingAPH0.015
10coin pocket attach @ jet piece (right)SNLS0.2
11pocket bag attach with jet piece5T F/L0.42
12o/l @ pocket bag3T O/L0.68
13top stitch @ pocket bagSNLS0.4
14o/l @ zipper fly4T O/L0.3
15o/l front panels @ crotch3T O/L0.26
16zipper attach @ left flyDNLS0.32
17left fly attach @ front panel (inseam & top stitch)SNLS0.34
18J-stitch @ left flyAPJ0.58
19front pocket mouth hemmingDNFPH0.3
20pocket bag stitch to front panel @side & top (wt w/c label@lt.)SNLS0.46
21right fly attach with zipper & crotch joinSNLS0.25
Assembly
22loop preparation3T F/L0.15
23main label attach @ waist band, & w/b joining in chainSNLS0.3
24top stitch @ inseamFOA0.55
25side seam join (attach front & back panels)5T O/L0.65
26top stitch @ side seamSNLS0.38
27waist band stitchWBAM0.38
28waist band corners finishSNLS0.72
29loop attachABLA0.65
30bottom hemmingBHM0.33
Total 11.65
Full form of sewing machine name
APH - Automatic pocket hemming machineADPc - Automatic pockect creasin gmachineAPc - Auto pocket stitching machineSNLS - Single needle lock stitchFOA - Feed of the arm3TO/L - 3 thread overlock (overedge)5TF/L - 5 thread flat lock (cover stitch)4TO/L - 4 thread over lock5TO/L - 5 thread over lockDNLS - Double neeedle lock stitch3TF/L - 3 thread flat lock (cover stitch)APJ - Auto J-stitch makingDNFPH - Double needle front pocket hemmingWBAM - Waistband attach machineABLA - Auto loop attachBHM - Bottom hemming machine
(Note: Some of the machine names are short form of machine used for the specific operation used by a company. Other companies may name it different way)
Sewing Process Flow Chart for Crew neck T-Shirt Topics: Apparel Production By: Prasanta Sarkar 3241
It is always easier to understand a picture than just description. How to make a T-shirt can be explained many times but students learnt it completely when they see it in the production floor. A process flow chart gives them the logic how operations follow sequence one after another.
A sewing process flow chart has been depicted in the following figure to guide learners how a T shirt is being made in a bulk production system. It is assumed that T shirt has neck tape (self bias tape). The process flow is also showing the sequence of operations that is generally being followed. Some factory may have a slightly varied sequence.
A crew neck T shirt has six components Front, Back, Neck rib or Collar, Neck tape and two sleeves. In the figure, on the top four sections of the garment component have been shown. The arrows show the flow of operations and inside the red circles operation sequence number and name of the operations has been written.
Figure:Sewing Process flow for T-Shirt
Operation Breakdown, Sewing Thread and SMV Calculation of a Polo Shirt
Calculation of SAM/SMV:
Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.
Step 2: Capture cycle time for that operation by stop watch standing beside of the operator. (cycle time: total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation). Do time study for consecutive five cycles. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time we get from time study is called cycle time.Basic Time = Cycle Time X Performance rating
* Performance rating: Performance rating means at what performance level operator doing the job, considering his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes
Step 3: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now we get Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.OPERATION BREAKDOWN AND SMV
Name of OperationM/C nameSMV Manpower
Placket IronIRON0.402
Placket Join Position MarkTABLE0.301
Placket Join1N2TLS0.322
Placket Front Middle CutTABLE0.281
Rib Placket ServicingO/L0.251
Lower Placket 2 Part Join1N2TLS0.301
Lower Placket O/L 2N4TOL0.281
Lower Placket Join & Top Stitch1N2TLS0.322
Nose Tack1N2TLS0.351
Back & Front Part MatchingTABLE0.301
Shoulder Joint & Trim2N4TOL0.331
Collar Servicing & MarkO/L0.301
Collar Tack to Neck1N2TLS0.402
Collar Join2N4TOL0.321
Collar Piping1N2TFL0.301
Collar Top Stitch1N2TLS0.602
Placket Close & 1/16 T/S1N2TLS0.713
Placket Inner Tack1N2TLS0.351
Placket Corner CutTABLE0.251
Placket Box Make1N2TLS0.502
Cuff ServicingO/L0.251
Cuff Join2N4TOL0.401
Sleeve MatchingTABLE0.301
Sleeve Join2N4TOL0.432
Arm Hole Top Stitch2N3TFL0.451
Cuff Opening Tack1N2TLS0.301
Sticker Remove+ Body TurnTABLE0.201
Side Seam2N4TOL0.502
Cuff Top Tack1N2TLS0.221
Bottom Hem2N3TFL0.241
Button Hole1N2TBH0.251
Button attach With Mark1N2TBA0.401
Label Make & Bottom Security Tack1N2TLS0.432
Total11.5344
Sewing Thread Consumption:Sewing thread requirement 3.44 M for machine code 1N2TLS means to Stitch 1 Meter of Seam, 3.44 meter sewing thread is used.Here we need to consideroperational allowance3+3=6 cm (starting point+ ending point) for each operation for Lock Stitch and 3.5+3.5= 7 cm for chain stitch , 5+5=10 cm for Flat lock , 6+6=12 cm for over lock with thelength of each operation.Also we need to consider 10-15% wastage on the calculated sewing thread consumption.SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION
M/C NameCODERequired Thread(M/M)
Single Needle Lock Stitch1N2TLS3.44
Single Needle 2 Thread Flat Lock1N2TFL4.8
Double Needle 3 Thread Flat Lock2N3TFL13.2
Double Needle 4 Thread Over lock2N4TOL19.8
Without Needle Over lock M/CO/L0
Button Attach1N2TBA0.3
Button Hole1N2TBH0.95
Posted by Noor Hossain at 9:12 AM Sample Operation Breakdown of a Jacket Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 3116
Question: Can I have one sample operation breakdown for a jacket with production layout? ... asked by Aweke ZewduAnswer:
A sample operation breakdown with SAM of each operation has been shown below. In this article, only operation breakdown and operation SMVs are posted. Production layout will be posted in a separate article.Standard time shown in the below chart is determined from Time Study. List of operations and SAM of operations may vary based on style and construction. This Operation breakdown has been sourced from a graduation project report of a NIFT student. This Project was done in Silver Sparks Apparel Limited, Bangalore.
Operation Breakdown and Machine Layout for Bra Manufacturing Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 1412
Question:Please post an article on operation breakdown & machine layout of a standard bra. I was unable to find anything on the Internet. ... asked by Isuru.
The following operation breakdown of a bra is refer to a particular style. Note that, SAM values of the operations may vary according to the style, seam length, attachment and work aids used and machine type. Prior to use below mentioned SAMs and operation sequence discuss it with your engineers. As per your request I have also attached machine layout of bra making in assembly line. To improve machineutilization few operations are clubbed together.
Operation Breakdown: Bra
OP #SEWING PROCESSSAMMACHINE
1Join Cups0.57SNLS
2Attach Tape to Cups0.73DNLS
3attach Elastic to side cups0.443SZZ
4Set support Panels0.39SNLS
5Serge support panels0.623TOL
6Join support panels, cup and front1.52SNLS
7Attach coverstitch tape to front0.61DNLS
8Join backs to cups0.55SNLS
9Attach coverstitch tape to sides0.47DNLS
10Attach lace and tape to cups0.76DNLS
11Attach elastic to band0.90ZZ
12Attach upper elastic & straps0.913SZZ
13Cover support panels edges0.543TOL
14Attach hooks and eyes to straps1.39SNLS
15Set eye to back0.36ZZ
16Set hook to back0.50SNLS
17Attach trimming to front0.25SNLS
18Trim thread and inspect1.00MAN
Total SAM12.51
Machine Layout for Bra makingIn the machine layout figure operation numbers and machine name have been mentioned.