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OCE/MPO 603: Gravity WAVES
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PRIMARY RESTORING FORCE
Surface TensionGravityRotation (Coriolis)
Surface Waves
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Wave shoaling
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The phase velocity cp (blue) and group velocity cg (red) as a function of water depth h for surface gravity waves of constant frequency. Quantities have been made dimensionless using the gravitational acceleration g and period T, with the deep-water wavelength given by L0 = gT2/(2π) and the deep-water phase speed c0 = L0/T. The grey line corresponds with the shallow-water limit cp =cg = √(gh). The phase speed – and thus also the wavelength L = cpT – decreases monotonically with decreasing depth. However, the group velocity first increases by 20% with respect to its deep-water value (of cg =c0 = gT/(4π)) before decreasing in shallower depths. WIKIPEDIA
Wave shoaling
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Shallow water wave
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B
A
1
2
3
A = At deep water. The elliptical motion of fluid particles decreases rapidly with increasing depth below the surface.B = At shallow water (ocean floor is now at B). The elliptical movement of a fluid particle flattens with decreasing depth.
Motion of a particle in an ocean wave.
propagationwave crest
wave trough
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Wave Growth
Three factors control and limit wave growth 1. Wind speed 2. Wind duration 3. Wind fetch = distance over which wind blows from a constant direction
“Fully developed sea” = when wave growth is not duration or fetch limited; eventually waves reach an equilibrium between energy input by the wind and dissipation+dispersion of energy
“Significant wave height” = average height of the 1/3 highest waves
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Wave energy spectra for fully-developed seas
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Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider Nomogram
wave height
(most Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider nomograms also include lines showing wave period and wind duration)
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