Download - Madeleine Vionnet
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THE QUEEN OF BIAS CUT
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HISTORY• Madeleine Vionnet (June 22, 1876 – March 2, 1975)
was a French fashion designer.• She was known as the "Queen of the bias cut" and
"the architect among dressmakers", Vionnet is best-known today for her elegant Grecian-style dresses and for introducing the bias cut to the fashion world.
• Vionnet began her apprenticeship in Aubervillier as a seamstress at age 11.
• Madeleine Vionnet was 17 when she left her apprenticeship to take a position as a seamstress at the House of Vincent.
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• Shortly after she left this position and got married at the age of 18.
• Shortly got divorced and moved to London.
• She was introduced to Kate Reilly who offered Vionnet employment in her Salon.
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• In 1912 she founded her own fashion house, "Vionnet".
• In 1914, when World War I started, Madeleine Vionnet closed the house and set off to visit Rome.
• In 1919, Vionnet returned to Paris and reopened at 222, Rue de Rivoli.
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• During the same period, Thayaht, a futurist artist, created Vionnet's logo and started designing textiles, clothing and jewelry for the house.
• In the 1920s Vionnet created a stir by introducing the bias cut.
• Her clothes were famous for accentuating the natural female form.
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• With the financial backing of Theophile Vionnet opened at #50 Ave, Montaigne the so called “temple of fashion” on April 15, 1923 and launched her label under the name Vionnet and Cie.
• New salon included a fur salon, a lingerie salon and a boutique at either end.
The House of Vionnet at 50,Avenue Montaigne
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• Vionnet & Cie entered into a distribution arrangement with Charles and Ray Gutman.
• In November, the first collection of Vionnet clothing shown at Charles and Ray was an enormous success.
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• In February 1924, the Vionnet New York Salon opened at Hickson and an exclusive collection of gowns was presented.
• In 1925, Vionnet & Cie was the first French couture house to open a subsidiary in New York.
• In 1926, because of high demand and because her dresses were to hard to copy she began producing her first lines of ready to wear.
• n 1927, Vionnet opened a school within her couture house.
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• In August 1939, Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975) presented her last collection in Paris before closing her house of couture.
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• In 1952, years after the closing of her house, Madeleine Vionnet donated most of her designs to the archives of the UFAC including 120 dresses from 1921 to 1939.
• In 1988, the Vionnet label was acquired by the Lummen family who reopened the house primarily focusing on accessories and the launch of new perfumes.
• Introduced new ready-to-wear collections in February 2003.
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• Eventually, in July 2006, Arnaud de Lummen, CEO of the house, announced a return on the fashion scene.
• Sophia Kokosalaki, was appointed Creative Director of the house and a debut clothing collection was launched for Spring/Summer 2007 - the first Vionnet clothing collection in 67 years.
Sophia Kokosalaki
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• Marc Audibet, appointed as artistic advisor, presented its sole and unique collection for the house in October 2007.
• From 2006 to 2008, Vionnet produced made-in-France "demi-couture" collections closed to haute-couture in the prices featured and the techniques and textiles used.
• On February 24, 2009, Matteo Marzotto announced the acquisition of the label and the creation of a new and independent structure in Milan where Vionnet is now operated.
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• Vionnet is now designed by Rodolfo Paglialunga who, prior to Vionnet, spent 13 years as a designer of womenswear at Prada, and the previous four years at Romeo Gigli.
Rodolfo Paglialunga
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Her famous work• Madeleine vionnet is known as “the queen of the bias cut”.• By cutting fabric against the grain, she enabled it to cling, drape and give in a way that was flattering to the body.• Influenced by the modern dances of Isadora Duncan, Vionnet created designs that showed off a woman's natural shape.
Isadora Duncan
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• She used this "bias cut" to promote the potential for expression and motion, integrating comfort and movement as well as form into her designs.
• Vionnet used materials such as crêpe de chine, gabardine, and satin to make
her clothes; fabrics that were unusual in women's fashion of the 1920s and 30s.
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• Characteristic Vionnet styles that clung to and moved with the wearer included the handkerchief dress, cowl neck, and halter top.
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• Cream tulle ball gown.• This dress was designed
by madeleine vionnet in 1938 and presented in her last farewell collection.
• This dress was purchased by lady foley.
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• Black lace ball gown.
• This was purchased by a loyal European client of vionnet.
• Right now in the victoria and albert museum,UK.
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• Vionnet dominated haute couture in the 1930s with sensually draped garments that were inspired by Greek, Roman, and medieval styles but brought suavely and sexily up-to-date.
Afternoon tea dressWhite organza and net ball gown
Black silk satin and black silk net embroidered with black
sequins
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• This silk jersey evening dress, designed by Madeleine Vionnet in Paris, France in 1930.
• including her use of the bias cut technique and the unadorned elegance of her drapery inspired by classical statuary.
• In this dress, the straps, jeweled with aquamarine and clear faceted glass stones, set into metal mounts.
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Vionnet as a brand• Headquarters in Milan,
Italy since 2009.• Key people are Matteo
Marzotto (Owner), Gianni Castiglioni (Strategic Partner), Rodolfo Paglialunga (Chief Designer).
• Deals with luxury goods.
logo
Matteo Marzotto
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Products of vionnet•Madeleine Vionnet Perfume by Madeleine Vionnet,is a timeless classic fragrance for women by madeleine vionnet.•Madeleine vionnet is a refined blend of citrus with a rich blend of florals.
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Vionnet shoes
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Vionnet accessories
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Vionnet spring 2007-08 collection by sophia
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Vionnet spring 2010 collection• The color blends used in Vionnet spring 2010
collection are absolutely wonderful and deepen the collections lovely style.
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Business profile• The Business of Fashion sat down with Mr. De
Lummen at Vionnet's recent presentation for S/S 2008 at Place Vendome during Paris Fashion Week to learn about his strategy for building the Vionnet brand.
• Madeleine Vionnet shuttered her business in 1939, and it stayed shut for six decades.
• Yet earlier this year, Matteo Marzotto bought the rights to the Vionnet brand.
• The exhibit of 130 dresses, with interactive explanations of Vionnet's techniques, runs through Jan. 31
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• The spring 2010 collection shown in Paris last month walks a fine line between homage and modern life.
• Vionnet is now even seen on red carpet appearences.
Carey mulligan Hillary swank Carey mulligan
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Madeleine Vionnet
Vionnet Paris 2009.flv
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