Shiseido and the Chair of the ScienceCommittee, IFSCC Praesidium since 2008.Dr Kanda met with the organisers ofin-cosmetics Asia, the leading personal careingredients show in Asia, to discuss hisfavourite cosmetic innovations. All theinnovations listed below have received topawards from the International Federation ofSocieties of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) –the world’s most authoritative conferencefor cosmetic science and technologies.
LIPSTICK THAT LASTS
“Red lipstick is very fashionable in Japanand consumers love strong colours,” says DrKanda. “But stopping the colour comingoff when the wearer takes a drink has
always been a problem.Now Shiseido has inventeda formulation to remedythis. With this product,when the consumer presses
their lips to a cup, the lipstick divides intotwo layers: the layer closest to theconsumer’s lips which contains the colourpigments, and a second layer on top of thatwhich is transparent. When the lipstickwearer takes a drink, the colour stays ontheir lips, leaving only the transparent layeron the cup.”
SOPHISTICATED SUNSCREEN
“Most consumers want a sunscreen thatwill stay on when they’re in the sun butwash off easily after sunbathing. But somesunscreens stick to the skin and are difficultto remove,” says Dr Kanda. He is proud ofan innovative sunscreen by Shiseido, with aspecial pH-responsive resin that changesstructure depending on what it comes intocontact with. “Our lotion will stay water-resistant if you jump into the sea but whenit comes into contact with soap, it changespH and becomes easier to rinse off.”
EVALUATION ADVANCEMENT
In recent years, the cosmetic industry hasstarted using advanced techniques foranalysing and evaluating how cosmeticswork, says Dr Kanda: “Examples of this areNIRS (near infrared spectroscopy) andtunnel electron microscopy. Scientists havebeen able to use NIRS to analyse levels ofwater in the skin with very high accuracy.Meanwhile, tunnel electron microscopy hasbeen used to look deep into the skin’sstructure without damaging it.” Dr Kandabelieves these new cosmetic technologiesare meeting demand from consumers whowant visual confirmation that theseproducts can improve their lives.
To find out more about innovation fromJapan, visit in-cosmetics Asia (Bangkok, 4-6November 2014), where ingredientsuppliers and speakers will be showcasingand highlighting the latest product andmarketing trends from Japan.
Author
Ivan Rahal, Reed Exhibitions www.in-cosmeticsasia.com
Despite facing a challenging economyat home, Japan’s top cosmetic brands areshowing steady growth in the globalmarkets. Kao and Shiseido are makingadvances in the demanding Chinesemarket, while Pola’s debut in Hong Konglast year and Kose’s US$135m purchase ofUS based colour cosmetic and skin carebrand Tarte are both proof of this growth.
While growth has been slow (0.2%between 2012 and 2013) in recent years,Japan remains the world’s second biggestcosmetic market, with domesticconsumption worth more than $47bnannually. According to EuromonitorInternational, it accounts for 11% of globalsales and has a 39% share of the Asia Pacificpersonal care market.
A SILVER OPPORTUNITY
Changes in the country’s population andenvironment are also presenting interestingand lucrative opportunities.
One important factor in this hugemarket is age. It is estimated that, by 2015,50% of the Japanese population will beover the age of 50. Anti-ageing isundoubtedly a key factor in the country’sworld-record high per capita for skin careconsumption (almost $20bn).
POLLUTION CONCERNS
Adding to this spend are Japaneseconsumer concerns that ‘hazy’ pollutioncoming from China may containmicro-particles that can be damaging tothe skin. These tiny particles in the airreduce visibility and cause the air to appearhazy when levels are elevated. Although themicro-particles won’t normally penetratethe skin, their presence can influence skin-surface barrier functions, leading to drynessor even acne. Products catering to this issuefeature the term ‘anti-PM2.5’ in theirproduct claims and marketing campaigns.
EASY DOES IT
With these social and economic factors inmind, a great way to boost sales is to offerinnovative products that are simple to use.Filling this brief for innovation are the newshorter “all-in-one”beauty products, such asDr Ci:Labo’s hugelysuccessful Aqua-Collagen-Gel, which features fivefunctions (lotion, serum, emulsion, creamand night mask) and Unilever Japan’s Dove,which offers a make-up remover, face washand lotion all in the one product.
LEADING THE WAY
Innovation is a topic close to the heart ofDr Fujihiro Kanda, a Senior Manager at
June 2014 SPC Asia 51
in-cosmetics asiaevent preview
MADE INJAPAN
This year’s in-cosmeticsAsia will feature a JapanCountry Focus. Ivan Rahal
discovers the latestinnovations from thistrend-setting market
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