Download - How to-correctly-care-for-a-new-lawn
459 Bells Creek Road, Beerwah, Qld, 4519 5494 0470 www.daleysturf.com.au
Locally Owned and Operated Since 1992
1800 325 3971800 325 397Call Now or Order Online
GUIDEWEED IDENTIFICATION
WEEDS
Nutgrass(Cyperus rotundus)
Summergrass(Digitaria sanguinalis, D. ciliaris)
Paspalum(Paspalum spp.)
Crowsfoot(Eleusine indica &E. tristachya)
Wintergrass(Poa annua)
Mullumbimby Couch(Cyperus brevifolius)
Clover(Trifolium spp.)
Fleabane(Conyza spp.)
Creeping Oxalis(Oxalis corniculata)
Pennyweed(Hydrocotyle tripartita)
Plantain(Plantago lanceolata)
Capeweed(Artotheca calendula)
Mallow(Malva parviflora)
Dandelion(Gnaphalium spp.)
Catsear(Hypochoeris spp.)
Bindii(Soliva sesillis)
When you have a new lawn installed it’s imperative that you care for it correctly so that it establishes and develops a strong root system. Here are the top tips for Daleys Turf for caring for your newly installed turf:
Watering
A heavy watering regime will ensure your new lawn doesn’t dry out while keeping the soil soft for new root penetration. Never let the new turf dry out. Of course, the amount of water the new lawn needs will be determined by the current weather. During hot weather you may need to water for 10 minutes four or five times per day for the first week. If it’s not too hot then watering once or twice a day may be enough. If your new lawn is doing well then you can reduced the amount of watering during week two – once a day during hot weather and every second day during milder weather. By week four you should be able to implement a normal watering routine of two deep applications of water per week, dependent on natural rainfall received.
Fertilising
Typically, new turf is fertilised before it leaves the turf farm so there is no reason to fertilise within the first two months of installation.
HOW TO CORRECTLY CARE FOR A NEW LAWN
459 Bells Creek Road, Beerwah, Qld, 4519
or call 5494 0470For more handy tips visit www.daleysturf.com.au
Locally Owned and Operated Since 1992
GUIDEWEED IDENTIFICATION
A = AnnualP = PerennialF = Fair to good post emergent controlPr = Pre Emergent* = Control prior to 2 leaf stage
WEED
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Bro
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Bro
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MA
Dim
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DSM
A C
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Expo
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Nug
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Kam
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Kerb
WSP
Mill
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Mon
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Poac
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Rons
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Bindii A F F F F F FBurr medic A F F F F F F FCapeweed A F F F F F FCatsear P F F F F F FClover P F F F F F F FCrowsfoot A Pr F F Pr PrCudweed A F F F F F FFleabane A F F F FHydrocotyle P F F F FMullumbimby Couch P F F F
Nutgrass P F F FOxalis, creeping P F F F F Pr F
Paspalum P FPearlwort P F F FPlantain P F F F F F F
Summer grass A
Pr F*
F Pr Pr F
Wintergrass A Pr Pr Pr F F Pr F Pr
F Pr
Control Guide
Ask your turf provider when the turf was last fertilised.
Mowing
You should not mow your new lawn until the turf in firmly rooted in the soil. You can test this by finding a corner of the turf roll and trying to pull it upwards. If the turf pulls upward then you should leave mowing for another week. If the turf stays fixed to the soil by the roots then it’s time for the first mowing.
New lawns can have a large amount of growth during the first few weeks in its new home if cared for correctly. When you do undertake the first mowing don’t remove too much of the leaf blade; cut high for the first few times you mow. Reduce the mowing height over a period of time, working to reach the target height after the new lawn is fully established which can take up to two or three months depending on growth and climate.
Stress
New lawns can suffer from stress so it’s important to keep an eye on the lawn. You need to watch up for signs of dehydration in particular. If the leaves begin to dry out or yellow you should increase the watering frequency until correct hydration is reached.
For more information about new lawns contact the team at Daleys Turf.