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P’yongyang˘375
NewDelhi
Delhi Lhasa
Yinchuan
Kathmandu
Dhaka Kunming
Chengdu
Lanzhou
Nanchang
FuzhouT’aipei
Hong Kong
Shanghai
YantaiTianjin
Beijing
Shenyang
Harbin
ChangchunVladivostok
Wuhan
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M O N G O L U L S
R O S S I Y A
NIPPON
DAEHAN MINGUK
CHOSONMINJU-JU INMINKONGHWAGUK
BANGLADESH
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N E I M O N G OL
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JADE VALLEY
TONGHUA
CHANGBAISHAN
LOU LAN
SUNTIME
LES CHAMPSD’OR
BEIJING
YUNNANSUN SPIRIT
World Atlas of Wine
P374A
MAP000
China Overview
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Longhua
Jianchang
Pulandian
Yanggu
Yuncheng
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Huanghua
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Bazhou
Renqiu
Longkou
Laizhou
Laiyang
JimoJiaozhou
Zhucheng
Rizhao
Yanqing
Chicheng
Huailai Miyun Suizhong
Lingyuan
Luan
Panjin
Gaizhou
Lüshun
Hejian
Xinji
Nangong
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Penglai
Pingdu
Juxian
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Linyi
Qinhuangdao
Cangzhou
Dezhou
Hengshui
Botou
DongyingWeihai
Liaocheng
Xintai
Tai’anLaiwu
Binzhou
Chengde
Yingkou
Anshan
Tangshan
Dalian(Lüda)
Zibo
Jinan
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Jinzhou
Yantai
LinqingWeifang
Baoding
Huludao
Beijing
Tianjin
Bohai Wan
B o H a i
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BEIJINGFENGSHOU
DYNASTY
CHANGYU
HUADONGQINGDAO
COFCO HUAXIABODEGA LANGESMOUTAI
SINO-FRENCHDEMONSTRATION
VINEYARD
WEILONG
SELLA &MOSCA
COFCO CHATEAU JUNDINGCITIC-LAFITECHATEAU
CHANGYU-CASTEL
World Atlas of Wine
P374B
MAP000
Regions aroundBeijing
QINGDAO
LOU LAN
HEBEI
LOU LAN
HEBEI
AB
BC
CD
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China
HEBEI AND SHANDONGThis lower map shows that part of China first colonized by the wine grape vine, with wineries owned by such giants as Changyu and three by the government-owned COFCO, including its showcase Château Junding on the coast northwest of Yantai.
One of the more potent symbols of the westernization of China has been the extent to which the staggeringly numerous Chinese have taken to wine. Consumption is rising at such a rate, estimated at 15% a year, that not just Shanghai and Beijing but the so-called second-tier Chinese cities have become even more popular destinations for French wine exporters than New York and London. So e!ective has the Bordeaux sales machine been that a considerable proportion of the fortunes recently made in China have been spent on red Bordeaux – especially the grandest names and particularly, for a while, the first growth Château Lafite – with a direct inflationary effect on global wine prices. Then, as the Chinese discovered France’s second most famous red wine, burgundy prices rose, too. China’s new connoisseurs have even begun to invest in foreign wine estates themselves, typically for hard-nosed commercial reasons.
The vine was known to gardeners in far western China at least as early as the 2nd century AD when wine, very possibly grape wine, was certainly made and consumed. European grape varieties were introduced to eastern China at the end of the 19th century, but it was only in the late 20th century that grape-based wine insinuated itself into Chinese (urban) society.
China’s love a!air with grape wine – putaojiu as opposed to mere jiu, meaning any alcoholic drink – was so e!ectively encouraged by the state, partly in an e!ort to reduce cereal imports, that according to the most recent OIV figures, China’s total vineyard area (including those devoted to fresh and dried grape production) nearly doubled to an estimated 1,384,000 acres (560,000ha) between 2000 and 2011. Those same figures suggest that China has been the world’s sixth most important wine producer since the turn of the century. Independently verified Chinese statistics are hard to come by, however, and Chinese wine bottlers have notoriously bumped up production with imported wine, grape must, grape concentrate, and even liquids completely unrelated to grapes.
Throughout the early years of this century, it was di"cult to find wines labelled as Chinese of any real quality. So fashionable was anything presented to Chinese consumers as a fair copy of red Bordeaux (for linguistic and cultural reasons, the average Chinese consumer insists wine must be red) that there was little incentive to try very hard. Cabernet Sauvignon, and to a lesser extent Merlot and Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenère),
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Toudaodun
Zueyahu
Yeshengpu Lingwu
Shaconggou
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P375 Ningxia
World Atlas of Wine
MAP000
CHANGYU
2000
P’yongyang˘375
NewDelhi
Delhi Lhasa
Yinchuan
Kathmandu
Dhaka Kunming
Chengdu
Lanzhou
Nanchang
FuzhouT’aipei
Hong Kong
Shanghai
YantaiTianjin
Beijing
Shenyang
Harbin
ChangchunVladivostok
Wuhan
Ulaanbaatar
Ürumqi
Almaty
Huang HeHI
M
AL
A Y A
K u n l u n S h a n
T i e n S h a n
A l t u n S h a n
DaHin
ggan
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G o b i
Bishkek
Q I N G H A I
S I C H U A N
HUNAN JIANGXI
GUANGDONGGUANGXI
GUIZHOU
HUBEI
HENAN
ANHUI
ZHEJIANG
JIANGSU
HEILONGJIANG
LIAONING
X I Z A N G
BHARATA
DRUK-YUL
N E P A L
QAZAQSTAN
KYRGYZ
M O N G O L U L S
R O S S I Y A
NIPPON
DAEHAN MINGUK
CHOSONMINJU-JU INMINKONGHWAGUK
BANGLADESH
Chang Jiang
N E I M O N G OL
Ta r i m P e n d i
HuangHai
Bo Hai Soul˘
FUJIAN
Guangzhou
XianZHONGHUA RENMINGONGHE GUO
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X I N J I A N G
TIANJIN
NINGXIA
SHANGRI LA
YUNNANRED
MOGAO-KIR YIANNI
GRACEVINEYARD
JADE VALLEY
TONGHUA
CHANGBAISHAN
LOU LAN
SUNTIME
LES CHAMPSD’OR
BEIJING
YUNNANSUN SPIRIT
World Atlas of Wine
P374A
MAP000
China Overview
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Fengrun
Luanping
JixianQianxi
Yanshan
Leling Zhanhua
Laixi
Dazeshan
Jiaonan
Rushan
Longhua
Jianchang
Pulandian
Yanggu
Yuncheng
Qingxian
Huanghua
Rongcheng
Xingcheng
LangfangZhuozhou
Bazhou
Renqiu
Longkou
Laizhou
Laiyang
JimoJiaozhou
Zhucheng
Rizhao
Yanqing
Chicheng
Huailai Miyun Suizhong
Lingyuan
Luan
Panjin
Gaizhou
Lüshun
Hejian
Xinji
Nangong
Shouguang
Boxing
Penglai
Pingdu
Juxian
Wafangdian
Linyi
Qinhuangdao
Cangzhou
Dezhou
Hengshui
Botou
DongyingWeihai
Liaocheng
Xintai
Tai’anLaiwu
Binzhou
Chengde
Yingkou
Anshan
Tangshan
Dalian(Lüda)
Zibo
Jinan
Qingdao
Jinzhou
Yantai
LinqingWeifang
Baoding
Huludao
Beijing
Tianjin
Bohai Wan
B o H a i
Laizhou Wan
Bohai Haixia
Liaodong Wan
Huang
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Luan He
Liao He
Hai He
Yongding He
Ziya
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Zi He
J u n d u S h a n
Y a n S h a n
Qi a
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B E I J I N G
T I A N J I NH E B E I
S H A N D O N G
L I A O N I N G
H E B E IDRAGON SEAL
COFCOGREAT WALL
BEIJINGFENGSHOU
DYNASTY
CHANGYU
HUADONGQINGDAO
COFCO HUAXIABODEGA LANGESMOUTAI
SINO-FRENCHDEMONSTRATION
VINEYARD
WEILONG
SELLA &MOSCA
COFCO CHATEAU JUNDINGCITIC-LAFITECHATEAU
CHANGYU-CASTEL
World Atlas of Wine
P374B
MAP000
Regions aroundBeijing
AB
BC
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375CH I N A | A S I A
Much to everyone’s surprise, a Jiabeilan 2009 waltzed off with an important international trophy at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2011. This bottling shows the footprints of the winemaker’s baby girl. The Chardonnay and Silver Heights are also from Ningxia, while Jade Valley, maker of the Pinot is in Shaanxi; Grace Vineyards is in Shanxi.
NORTHERN NINGXIANingxia authorities have been actively encouraging investment from both Chinese and foreign wine companies on the well-drained slopes between the Helan Mountains and the Yellow River. They have shipped in and rehoused vineyard labourers from less hospitable terrain in the south of the province.
dominated plantings, but wines were typically under ripe and over-oaked. By about 2010, however, a small elite of carefully made, truly Chinese-grown wines finally emerged.
Extreme weatherChina’s vastness can offer a staggering range of soils and latitudes. Climate is more problematical. Inland China su!ers typical continental extremes so that most vines have to be painstakingly banked up every autumn to protect them from fatally freezing temperatures in winter. This adds considerably to production costs, not least because a certain proportion of vines are lost each year as a consequence of being manhandled, but is currently just about a!ordable. The continued movement of the Chinese from countryside to cities, however, means that increased mechanization of this laborious operation is surely likely.
Meanwhile, much of the coast, especially in southern and central areas, is subject to monsoons at inconvenient times for grape-growing. On the face of it the Shandong Peninsula in eastern China looks one of the more likely places to grow European grapes. With a truly maritime climate that requires no winter protection of vines, it o!ers well-drained, south-facing slopes. The first wineries and vineyards of the modern era were established there. Storms can strike inconveniently at any time between flowering and harvest but winters are mild. This is where about a quarter of China’s hundreds of wineries are now based, but fungal diseases in late summer and autumn are the main drawback. Changyu was the pioneer and is still by far the dominant producer while Chateau Changyu-Castel is a separate joint venture with the Castel family of Bordeaux. When, in 2009, the owner of Château Lafite decided to establish a serious winery in China, in conjunction with the Chinese giant company CITIC, rather to the surprise of industry observers, its chose Shandong’s Penglai Peninsula. Further inland, Hebei province has the advantage of being even closer to Beijing, and its viticultural potential is probably not yet fully unlocked, but ambitious wine producers have been moving systematically west.
Grace Vineyard was established in Shanxi province in 1997. By 2004, it was producing some of the finest wines in China but has since, like many others, been exploring Ningxia, Shaanxi, and Gansu provinces further west. Indeed, Ningxia’s local government is determined to make its reclaimed land – at around 3,300ft (1,000m) altitude on the gravelly east-facing banks of the Yellow River – China’s most important wine province. Pernod Ricard and LVMH (for sparkling wine production) have already been lured to set down roots here, and both the tentacular giant COFCO and Changyu, originally based in Shandong, are becoming significant producers in Ningxia. Lack of labour and warmth has dogged some Shaanxi trials. Boutari of Greece has invested in Gansu, although soils can be less well-drained here.
In Xinjiang province in the far northwest, where much of the population is Muslim, ingenious irrigation systems harness meltwater from some of the highest mountains in the world, but the growing season is short – sometimes too short for wine grapes to ripen properly (many of the vines planted are for table and drying grapes) and the vineyards are thousands of miles from most consumers.
Hunnan/Yunnan province in the far south near Tibet is almost as far away, but its latitude means that winters are much milder. The privately owned Shangri-la winery is producing premium Cabernet Sauvignon, with both Chinese and Australian expertise, at well over 9,800ft (3,000m) altitude on the Diqing Plateau. A new frontier indeed.
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P’yongyang˘375
NewDelhi
Delhi Lhasa
Yinchuan
Kathmandu
Dhaka Kunming
Chengdu
Lanzhou
Nanchang
FuzhouT’aipei
Hong Kong
Shanghai
YantaiTianjin
Beijing
Shenyang
Harbin
ChangchunVladivostok
Wuhan
Ulaanbaatar
Ürumqi
Almaty
Huang HeHI
M
AL
A Y A
K u n l u n S h a n
T i e n S h a n
A l t u n S h a n
DaHin
ggan
Ling
G o b i
Bishkek
Q I N G H A I
S I C H U A N
HUNAN JIANGXI
GUANGDONGGUANGXI
GUIZHOU
HUBEI
HENAN
ANHUI
ZHEJIANG
JIANGSU
HEILONGJIANG
LIAONING
X I Z A N G
BHARATA
DRUK-YUL
N E P A L
QAZAQSTAN
KYRGYZ
M O N G O L U L S
R O S S I Y A
NIPPON
DAEHAN MINGUK
CHOSONMINJU-JU INMINKONGHWAGUK
BANGLADESH
Chang Jiang
N E I M O N G OL
Ta r i m P e n d i
HuangHai
Bo Hai Soul˘
FUJIAN
Guangzhou
XianZHONGHUA RENMINGONGHE GUO
P a m i r
YUNNAN
JILIN
HEBEISHANXI
SHAANXI
SHANDONG
GANSU
X I N J I A N G
TIANJIN
NINGXIA
SHANGRI LA
YUNNANRED
MOGAO-KIR YIANNI
GRACEVINEYARD
JADE VALLEY
TONGHUA
CHANGBAISHAN
LOU LAN
SUNTIME
LES CHAMPSD’OR
BEIJING
YUNNANSUN SPIRIT
World Atlas of Wine
P374A
MAP000
China Overview
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Fengrun
Luanping
JixianQianxi
Yanshan
Leling Zhanhua
Laixi
Dazeshan
Jiaonan
Rushan
Longhua
Jianchang
Pulandian
Yanggu
Yuncheng
Qingxian
Huanghua
Rongcheng
Xingcheng
LangfangZhuozhou
Bazhou
Renqiu
Longkou
Laizhou
Laiyang
JimoJiaozhou
Zhucheng
Rizhao
Yanqing
Chicheng
Huailai Miyun Suizhong
Lingyuan
Luan
Panjin
Gaizhou
Lüshun
Hejian
Xinji
Nangong
Shouguang
Boxing
Penglai
Pingdu
Juxian
Wafangdian
Linyi
Qinhuangdao
Cangzhou
Dezhou
Hengshui
Botou
DongyingWeihai
Liaocheng
Xintai
Tai’anLaiwu
Binzhou
Chengde
Yingkou
Anshan
Tangshan
Dalian(Lüda)
Zibo
Jinan
Qingdao
Jinzhou
Yantai
LinqingWeifang
Baoding
Huludao
Beijing
Tianjin
Bohai Wan
B o H a i
Laizhou Wan
Bohai Haixia
Liaodong Wan
Huang
He
Luan He
Liao He
Hai He
Yongding He
Ziya
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Zi He
J u n d u S h a n
Y a n S h a n
Qi a
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B E I J I N G
T I A N J I NH E B E I
S H A N D O N G
L I A O N I N G
H E B E IDRAGON SEAL
COFCOGREAT WALL
BEIJINGFENGSHOU
DYNASTY
CHANGYU
HUADONGQINGDAO
COFCO HUAXIABODEGA LANGESMOUTAI
SINO-FRENCHDEMONSTRATION
VINEYARD
WEILONG
SELLA &MOSCA
COFCO CHATEAU JUNDINGCITIC-LAFITECHATEAU
CHANGYU-CASTEL
World Atlas of Wine
P374B
MAP000
Regions aroundBeijing
QINGDAO
LOU LAN
HEBEI
LOU LAN
HEBEI
AB
BC
CD
DE
EF
FG
1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6
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(BHUTAN)
(CHINA)
(INDIA)
(KYRGYZSTAN)
(KAZAKHSTAN)
( R U S S I A )
( M O N G O L I A )
(Yellow Ri
ver)
Province boundary
Notable producer
Vineyards
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N
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Km 0
1:5,128,00010050 150 Km
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International boundary
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Notable producer
Land above 1000 metres
Area mapped at largerscale
International boundary
Provincial boundary
Wine-growing region
Notable producer
Land above 1000 metres
Area mapped at largerscale
374
7H[W
China
HEBEI AND SHANDONGThis lower map shows that part of China first colonized by the wine grape vine, with wineries owned by such giants as Changyu and three by the government-owned COFCO, including its showcase Château Junding on the coast northwest of Yantai.
One of the more potent symbols of the westernization of China has been the extent to which the staggeringly numerous Chinese have taken to wine. Consumption is rising at such a rate, estimated at 15% a year, that not just Shanghai and Beijing but the so-called second-tier Chinese cities have become even more popular destinations for French wine exporters than New York and London. So e!ective has the Bordeaux sales machine been that a considerable proportion of the fortunes recently made in China have been spent on red Bordeaux – especially the grandest names and particularly, for a while, the first growth Château Lafite – with a direct inflationary effect on global wine prices. Then, as the Chinese discovered France’s second most famous red wine, burgundy prices rose, too. China’s new connoisseurs have even begun to invest in foreign wine estates themselves, typically for hard-nosed commercial reasons.
The vine was known to gardeners in far western China at least as early as the 2nd century AD when wine, very possibly grape wine, was certainly made and consumed. European grape varieties were introduced to eastern China at the end of the 19th century, but it was only in the late 20th century that grape-based wine insinuated itself into Chinese (urban) society.
China’s love a!air with grape wine – putaojiu as opposed to mere jiu, meaning any alcoholic drink – was so e!ectively encouraged by the state, partly in an e!ort to reduce cereal imports, that according to the most recent OIV figures, China’s total vineyard area (including those devoted to fresh and dried grape production) nearly doubled to an estimated 1,384,000 acres (560,000ha) between 2000 and 2011. Those same figures suggest that China has been the world’s sixth most important wine producer since the turn of the century. Independently verified Chinese statistics are hard to come by, however, and Chinese wine bottlers have notoriously bumped up production with imported wine, grape must, grape concentrate, and even liquids completely unrelated to grapes.
Throughout the early years of this century, it was di"cult to find wines labelled as Chinese of any real quality. So fashionable was anything presented to Chinese consumers as a fair copy of red Bordeaux (for linguistic and cultural reasons, the average Chinese consumer insists wine must be red) that there was little incentive to try very hard. Cabernet Sauvignon, and to a lesser extent Merlot and Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenère),
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China Overview
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375CH I N A | A S I A
Much to everyone’s surprise, a Jiabeilan 2009 waltzed off with an important international trophy at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2011. This bottling shows the footprints of the winemaker’s baby girl. The Chardonnay and Silver Heights are also from Ningxia, while Jade Valley, maker of the Pinot is in Shaanxi; Grace Vineyards is in Shanxi.
NORTHERN NINGXIANingxia authorities have been actively encouraging investment from both Chinese and foreign wine companies on the well-drained slopes between the Helan Mountains and the Yellow River. They have shipped in and rehoused vineyard labourers from less hospitable terrain in the south of the province.
dominated plantings, but wines were typically under ripe and over-oaked. By about 2010, however, a small elite of carefully made, truly Chinese-grown wines finally emerged.
Extreme weatherChina’s vastness can offer a staggering range of soils and latitudes. Climate is more problematical. Inland China su!ers typical continental extremes so that most vines have to be painstakingly banked up every autumn to protect them from fatally freezing temperatures in winter. This adds considerably to production costs, not least because a certain proportion of vines are lost each year as a consequence of being manhandled, but is currently just about a!ordable. The continued movement of the Chinese from countryside to cities, however, means that increased mechanization of this laborious operation is surely likely.
Meanwhile, much of the coast, especially in southern and central areas, is subject to monsoons at inconvenient times for grape-growing. On the face of it the Shandong Peninsula in eastern China looks one of the more likely places to grow European grapes. With a truly maritime climate that requires no winter protection of vines, it o!ers well-drained, south-facing slopes. The first wineries and vineyards of the modern era were established there. Storms can strike inconveniently at any time between flowering and harvest but winters are mild. This is where about a quarter of China’s hundreds of wineries are now based, but fungal diseases in late summer and autumn are the main drawback. Changyu was the pioneer and is still by far the dominant producer while Chateau Changyu-Castel is a separate joint venture with the Castel family of Bordeaux. When, in 2009, the owner of Château Lafite decided to establish a serious winery in China, in conjunction with the Chinese giant company CITIC, rather to the surprise of industry observers, its chose Shandong’s Penglai Peninsula. Further inland, Hebei province has the advantage of being even closer to Beijing, and its viticultural potential is probably not yet fully unlocked, but ambitious wine producers have been moving systematically west.
Grace Vineyard was established in Shanxi province in 1997. By 2004, it was producing some of the finest wines in China but has since, like many others, been exploring Ningxia, Shaanxi, and Gansu provinces further west. Indeed, Ningxia’s local government is determined to make its reclaimed land – at around 3,300ft (1,000m) altitude on the gravelly east-facing banks of the Yellow River – China’s most important wine province. Pernod Ricard and LVMH (for sparkling wine production) have already been lured to set down roots here, and both the tentacular giant COFCO and Changyu, originally based in Shandong, are becoming significant producers in Ningxia. Lack of labour and warmth has dogged some Shaanxi trials. Boutari of Greece has invested in Gansu, although soils can be less well-drained here.
In Xinjiang province in the far northwest, where much of the population is Muslim, ingenious irrigation systems harness meltwater from some of the highest mountains in the world, but the growing season is short – sometimes too short for wine grapes to ripen properly (many of the vines planted are for table and drying grapes) and the vineyards are thousands of miles from most consumers.
Hunnan/Yunnan province in the far south near Tibet is almost as far away, but its latitude means that winters are much milder. The privately owned Shangri-la winery is producing premium Cabernet Sauvignon, with both Chinese and Australian expertise, at well over 9,800ft (3,000m) altitude on the Diqing Plateau. A new frontier indeed.
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