Download - GJ Cleverley
BESP O K E S H O E MA KERS
1 3 T H E R O Y A L A R C A D E O L D B O N D S T L O N D O N W I S 4 S L
G J C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D
london
C O N T E N T S
04 H I S T O R Y O F G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y
0 6 T H E A R T O F S H O E M A K I N G
1 2 B E S P O K E
2 6 A N T H O N Y C L E V E R L E Y
3 2 B E N C H M A D E
4 0 S L I P P E R S & A C C E S S O R I E S
4 4 1786 R U S S I A N L E A T H E R
4 6 A F T E R C A R E
4 8 O V E R S E A S C O N T A C T
5 0 L O N D O N S T O R E
P h o t o g r a p h y - J a m e s B e d f o r d
A r t D i r e c t i o n - A s h l e y R o b e r t s
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H I S T O RY O F G E O R G E C L E V E R L E YA L M O S T A C E N T U R Y O F S H O E M A K I N G
G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y W A S B O R N O N
T H E 1 0 T H O F A U G U S T 1 8 9 8 I N T O A
S H O E M A K I N G F A M I L Y I N L O N D O N .
George moved to Colchester in Essex
wi th h is parents when he was aged
t w o a n d s p e n t h i s c h i l d h o o d s e l l i n g
bootlaces & polish. After f inishing his
apprent iceship at 15 , he was cal led
u p t o t h e A r m y f o r Wo r l d Wa r 1 a n d
stationed in London before joining an
army boot factory in Cala is , France.
After the war he joined Tuczec, a high
society London shoemaker on Clifford
Street, Mayfair. He remained there for
38 years. George left Tuczec in 1958 to
start up his own business. G.J Cleverley
of Cork Street, Mayfair, London.
O n C o r k S t r e e t h e f u r t h e r e d h i s
r e p u t a t i o n t o i n c l u d e s o m e o f t h e
m o s t i l l u s t r i o u s n a m e s i n s o c i e t y
a n d b e c a m e w e l l k n o w n f o r m a k i n g
t h e C l e v e r l e y s h a p e - a g r a c e f u l ,
chisel-toed shoe which became signa-
ture to h is extraordinary craf t .
George d ied in 1991 at near ly 93 years
of age and was st i l l work ing, v i r tual ly
unt i l he d ied.
Today, the company is sti l l a family run
business headed by George Glasgow,
who worked with Mr.Cleverley for over
20 years.
George Cleverley Team
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
T H E A R T O F S H O E M A K I N GS P E C I A L T Y I N H O U S E S H O E M A K I N G
A P A I R O F G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y ’ S
B E S P O K E S H O E S A R E A W O R K O F
AR T, I N D I V I D U A L T O T H E I R O W N E R .
They are created by the close teamwork
of specia l i zed craf tsmen, a l l o f whom
have served long apprent iceships to
acquire their part icu lar sk i l ls .
From the moment you enter Cleverleys
wood panel led showroom you wi l l be
looked after by a highly skil led member
of staff who will discuss every aspect of
your requirements and desires with you
- ensuring you get the exact shoe you
want in terms of look, shape, material
and style whilst taking into account any
other specific needs you may have.
Then while bearing this in mind, your
feet wil l be measured with an outl ine
and various girth measurements will be
taken. These are used to create a three
dimensional map used to explore the
best balance and l ines for your feet.
Following this consultation a pair of
bespoke wooden lasts wil l be carved
especially for you encompassing every
aspect of your foot, it’s movement and
your chosen style.
FIRST VISITG
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
T H E I N D I V I D U A L L A S T I S U S E D T O
C O N S T R U C T T H E F I R S T P A I R O F
s h o e s a n d w i l l t h e n b e s t o r e d i n
C lever ley ’s last room to ensure t h a t
s u b - s e q u e n t p a i r s c a n b e made to
the same high standards of closeness,
style and comfort for future orders .
Us ing these lasts a paper pat tern is
developed in the style of the specific
shoe required: derby, oxford, casual,
e tc and la id on the last to check the
sty l ing against your foot shape.
Once the design is ready the chosen
h ide is prepared and the p ieces are
cut making sure the d i rect ion of the
foot’s movement matches the original
movement of the animal. This ensures
a h a r m o n i o u s r e l a t i o n s h i p b e t w e e n
the foot and shoe.
T h e c l i c k e r t a k e s o n t h e t a s k o f
c h o o s i n g t h e p e r f e c t h i d e t o c u t ,
w h i c h i s u s e d i n t h e u p p e r p a r t o f
t h e s h o e . Each c l i c k e r h a s v a s t
e x p e r i e n c e w i t h t h i s p a r t o f t h e
shoemaking process and can ensure
the sty le and durabi l i ty of the shoe.
MAKING THE SHOEG
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
T h e c l o s e r t a k e s o n t h e t a s k o f s e w i n g ,
l ining and shaping the hides around the last
to ensure the cleverley style is maintained.
The c loser wi l l focus on the upper part of
the shoe to guarantee that the strength and
durabi l i ty of the shoe is mainta ined to last
many years .
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
A T T H I S S T A G E W E W I L L A S K T O
S E E Y O U F O R A F I T T I N G A N D Y O U
W I L L S E E T H E S H O E F O R T H E F I R S T
T I M E A T I T S M I D - W A Y P O I N T .
W h i l e f i t t i n g t h e s h o e a t t h i s t i m e ,
o u r c r a f t s m a n w i l l c h e c k t h e f i t
a n d s t y l e t o m e e t w i t h t h e c l i e n t s
e x p e c t a t i o n s .
O n c e y o u a p p r o v e t h e s h o e s , t h e y
w i l l b e r e p l a c e d o n t h e l a s t s w h e r e
a n o a k b a r k t a n n e d s o l e i s s t i t c h e d
o n b y h a n d . T h e h e e l s a r e t h e n
b u i l t u p a n d t h e e d g e s o f t h e s e a r e
s t a i n e d , f i n i s h e d a n d s e a l e d f o r
w a t e r p r o o f i n g . F i n a l l y , t h e l a s t s
a r e r e m o v e d , t h e r e m a i n i n g h e e l -
bui ld ing nai ls are c l ipped and socks
( l i n i n g i n t h e h e e l s ) a r e a d d e d .
O n c e t h e s h o e h a s r e a c h e d t h i s
p o i n t , a p r o f e s s i o n a l p o l i s h e r w i l l
a d d t h e f i n a l t o u c h e s . T h e p o l i s h e r
w i l l p a y p a r t i c u l a r a t t e n t i o n t o t h e
h i d e s a n d a p p l y t h e c o r r e c t t y p e o f
p o l i s h w h i c h w i l l p r o t e c t a n d b r i n g
t h e c o l o u r o u t o f y o u r n e w G e o r g e
C l e v e r l e y s h o e s .
FINISHING THE SHOEG
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
A f t e r y o u r f i r s t p a i r o f s h o e s h a v e
b e e n m a d e a n d t h e c o r r e c t f i t a n d
l o o k o f s h o e s i s a c h i e v e d , t h e p a i r
o f l a s t s w i l l r e m a i n i n t h e s t o r e . B y
k e e p i n g t h e l a s t s a t c l e v e r l e y ’s y o u
c a n r e q u e s t y o u r n e x t p a i r o f s h o e s
a t a n y t i m e , f r o m a n y w h e r e i n t h e
w o r l d a n d b e c o n f i d e n t t h a t i n t h r e e
m o n t h s a n e w p a i r w i l l b e s e n t
w h i c h w i l l a g a i n b e p e r f e c t f o r y o u .
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
B E S P O K E L A C EA S I N D I V I D U A L A S Y O U A R E
O X F O R D S H I R E · B r o w n c r o c o d i l e
WA R W I C K S H I R E · Ta n c a l f
C H E S H I R E · D a r k b r o w n c a l f
D E V O N · C r o c o d i l e & to b a c c o b u c k s k i n
C O R N WA L L · B r o w n c a l f
Y O R K S H I R E · B r o w n c a l f
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
A S B O U R N E · D a r k b r o w n c a l f
S O M E R S E T · B r a c ke n c a l f & r u s s i a n h i d e
B E D F O R D S H I R E · B l a c k c a l f
K E N T · B l a c k p a te n t w / s i l k l a c i n g
B U C K I N G H A M S H I R E · R u s t i c b r o w n c a l f
E S S E X · E s p re s s o b r o w n c a l f
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
W I L T S H I R E · D a r k b r o w n b u c k s k i n
F I N C H L E Y · B l a c k c a l f
D o n a t o · D a r k b r o w n c a l f
B A R N E S · B l a c k c a l f
W O L F E · T a n c a l f & w h i t e b u c k s k i n
H A M P S H I R E · B l a c k c a l f
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
B E S P O K E M O N K SA S I N D I V I D U A L A S Y O U A R E
W E L L I N G T O N · O x b l o o d c r o c o d i l e
B E R K S H I R E · B r o w n b u c k s k i n
A S H F O R D · B r o w n c a l f
H E R T F O R D S H I R E · B l a c k c a l f
C H E S T E R F I E L D · D a r k b r o w n c a l f
T H O R N E · Ta n c r o c o d i l e
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
B E S P O K E C A S U A L SA S I N D I V I D U A L A S Y O U A R E
B E X L E Y · A n t i q u e ta n c a l f
C H E L S E A · C h e s t n u t c a l f
PA R L I A M E N T · Black cal f & black crocodi le
K E N S I N G T O N · B l a c k c a l f
W E S T M I N S T E R · L o n g c h a mp c a l f
F U L H A M · C h e s t n u t c a l f
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
A L B E R T · B l a c k c r o c o d i l e
C H A R L B U R Y · B r o w n p e b b l e g r a i n c a l f
H A R R O W · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e
B U R F O R D · B r o w n p i g s k i n
L E Y T O N · B l a c k c a l f & b l a c k b u c k s k i n
G L O U C E S T E R S H I R E · O x b l o o d c a l f
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
C H E Y N E · D a r k b r o w n c a l f
A L T O N · Midnight b lue ca l f & whi te ca l f
C R O S B Y · Oxblood cal f
K E M P T O N · 17 8 6 R u s s i a n h i d e
L A N C A S H I R E · D a r k b r o w n l i z a r d
M A D E T O O R D E R G O L F S H O E S AVA I L A B L E
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
N E W P O R T · B l a c k c a l f
L O N D O N · M i d n i g h t b l u e c r o c o d i l e
M C N A L LY · Ta n c a l f
K E N D A L · B r o w n c a l f
P O O L E · B r o w n c a l f
Q U I N N · B l a c k c a l f
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
H A R L O W · Ta n c a l f
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
C R E A T I V E B E S P O K E T H E C H O I C E I S C O M P L E T E L Y Y O U R S
P R I C E · B r o w n c a l f & to b a c c o b u c k s k i n
S U L L I VA N · B l a c k c r o c o d i l e
B O L T O N · C h e s t n u t c a l f & ta n c r o c o d i l e
WA T T S · Black crocodi le & blue buckskin
C A S E Y · Chestnut cal f & brown l izard
M A R S H A L L · B l a c k c a l f & b l a c k c r o c o d i l e
B R I G G · B r o w n p e b b l e g r a i n c a l f
C A P O N E · B l a c k c a l f & w h i te c a l f25
G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
A N T H O N Y C L E V E R L E Y S E M I B E S P O K E S H O E S
F O R T E · B l a c k c a l f
D E R E D E · D a r k b r o w n b u c k s k i n
FA I R B A N K S · B l a c k c a l f
R O T H S C H I L D · B r o w n p e b b l e g r a i n c a l f
D E R E D E · B l a c k c a l f
L I T C H F I E L D · B r o w n c a l f
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
PA R K · D a r k g re e n c a l f
B O D I E · B l a c k c a l f
F O R T E · B u r g u n d y c a l f
D E G I V E N C H Y · B l a c k c a l f
B I R L E Y · B r a c ke n c a l f
H A G U E · b l a c k c a l f
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
C H U R C H I L L · B l a c k c a l fL i m i t e d E d i t i o n
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
C H O W · B u r g u n d y c a l fA l s o a v a i l a b l e i n b l a c k c a l f
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
R O T H S C H I L D · B l a c k c a l f
P H I L I P · B u r g u n d y c a l fS e m i - b e s p o k e
P H I L I P · B l a c k c a l fS e m i - b e s p o k e
T AV I S T O C K · M i d n i g h t b l u e c a l f
P E T E R · B l a c k C a l fS e m i - b e s p o k e
C H R I S T I A N · T a n b u r n i s h e d c a l f S e m i - b e s p o k e
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
B E N C H M A D ER E A D Y T O W E A R S H O E S
R E U B E N · B l a c k c a l f
A R C H I E · Ta n s c o tc h c o u n t r y g r a i n D a i n i te s t u d d e d s o l e
C H A R L E S · B l a c k c a l f
R E U B E N · C h e s t n u t a n t i q u e c a l f
A R C H I E · B l a c k s c o tc h c o u n t r y g r a i nD a i n i te s t u d d e d s o l e
C H A R L E S · Ta n b u r n i s h e d c a l f
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
D AV I D · Wa l n u t c a l f & m i l k s u e d e
A D A M · C h e s t n u t b u r n i s h e d c a l fA l s o a v a i l a b l e i n b l a c k c a l f
J A M E S · B l a c k c a l f
O L I V E R · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e
H E N R Y · Dark brown countr y grain D a i n i te s t u d d e d s o l e
A L A N · B l a c k c a l f
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
G E O R G E · Ta n b u r n i s h e d c a l f ( u n l i n e d )
G E O R G E · D a r k b r o w n b u r n i s h e d c a l f ( u n l i n e d )
B R A D L E Y · B u r g u n d y a n t i q u e c a l f
G E O R G E · B l a c k c a l f ( u n l i n e d )
B R A D L E Y · B l a c k c a l f
N A T H A N · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
R E U B E N · E s p re s s o s u e d e
M A T T H E W · Ta n c a l f
B R YA N · D a r k o a k a n t i q u e c a l fD o u b l e l e a t h e r s o l e
O L I V E R · Ta n b u r n i s h e d c a l f Double leat her sole
M A T T H E W · B l a c k c a l f
L E W I S · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
D A N I E L · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e
J A C K · B u r g u n d y c a l f
H A R O L D · B l a c k c a l f
O W E N · B r a c ke n c a l f
J A C K · B l a c k c a l f
E L L I O T · M a h o g a n y b u r n i s h e d c a l f D a i n i t e s t u d d e d s o l e w / s t o r m w e l t
37
G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
S E A N · P o l o b r o w n c a l f
A I D A N · D a r k b u r g u n d y a n t i q u e c a l f
G A B R I E L · To b a c c o s u e d e
G E O R G E · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e
A I D A N · D a r k m a h o ga n y c a l f
G A B R I E L · B l a c k c a l f
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
AIDAN & GEORGE · A s s o r te d c a l f l e a t h e r s
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
S L I P P E R S & A C C E S S O R I E SR E L A X I N C O M F O R T A N D L U X U R Y
A L B E R T · B l a c k v e l v e t
G O L D E N S K U L L · G o l d w i re & s i l k
G L O D E N S E A L · G o l d W i re
A L B E R T · W i n e v e l v e t
SKULL & CROSSBONES · Silver wire & silk
* Personal i zed monogramming i s ava i lab le in a var ie ty o f go ld and s i lve r w i r ing , a long wi th d i f f e r en t c o l o u r e d s i l k s
41
G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
L a r g e r s e l e c t i o n o f a c c e s s o r i e s i s
avaialbe at www.gjcleverley.co .uk
A L B E R T M I D N I G H T · B l u e c a s h m e re
S E M I - B E S P O K E · l a s te d s h o e t re e
B E N C H M A D E · a d j u s ta b l e s h o e t re e
PA T E N T · B o w l e a t h e r p u mp
ANTHONY CLEVERLEY · lasted shoe t ree
W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K
W A L L E T S · Av a i l a b l e i n a v a r i e t y of colours , l e a t h e r s & e x o t i c s k i n s
J O E L S O N · T w e e d a n d l e a t h e r h o l d a l l C A L F S H O E C L E A N I N G K I T · A v a i l a b l e i n s e v e r a l d i f f e r e n t c o l o u r s & m a t e r i a l s
C R E D I T C A R D H O L D E R S · H a n d m a d e i n s e v e r a l d i f f e r e n t e x o t i c s k i n s
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
1 7 8 6 R U S S I A N L E AT H E RR E T R I E V E D A F T E R 2 0 0 Y E A R S
On December 10 th 1786 a s to r m fo rced the Met ta Cathar ina
to seek she l te r in P lymouth Sound. She had been bound fo r
the Medi te r ranean wi th a cargo o f hemp and lea ther f r om
the Russ ian Po r t o f S t . Pe te r sburg . The Cather ina b roke f r ee
and was b lown towards Mount Edgecumbe be fo re s ink ing .
The c rew were ab le to ge t ashore bu t the sh ip and i t s cargo
were lo s t - un t i l a lmos t 200 years la te r d ive r s f ound a sh ip ’ s
be l l on the sea f l oo r . Fu r the r inves t iga t ion revea led bundles
o f h ides l i t t e r ing the sea bed . They were remarkably we l l
p rese rved a f te r two centur ies o f immers ion in b lack mud.
S ince those h ides were r e t r i eved , many hundreds have been
brought to the su r face . They have been tanned the t radi t ional
Russ ian way , which invo lves soak ing in p i t s o f w i l l ow bark
and cur ry ing wi th b i rch o i l . The p rocess g ives them a ve ry
d i s t inc t a roma. Mos t o f the h ides have been c ross ha tched
in the g ra in embossed by hand. The famous ‘Russ ia ’ l ea ther
i s r enowned fo r i t ’ s ab i l i ty to r es i s t wate r and repe l insec t s .
K E M P T O N · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r b e s p o ke b o o t i e
WA L L A C E · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r b e l t
G L A D S T O N E · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r b a g
S U L L I VA N · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r w a s h b a g
C A P P E L L O · R u s s i a n l e t h e r a t t a c h é c a s e
BREAST & HIP WALLET S · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r w a l l e t s
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G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
A F T E R C A R EC L E V E R L E Y A F T E R C A R E S E R V I C E
G . J . C l e v e r l e y p r i d e s i t s e l f o n a f u l l
a f t e r c a r e s e r v i c e , w h i c h i n v o l v e s a n y
r e p a i r w o r k t h a t t h e s h o e r e q u i r e s
d u r i n g i t ’ s l i f e t i m e . T h e s e r e p a i r s
w i l l b e c a r r i e d o u t b y t h e s a m e m a s t e r
c r a f t s m a n w h o m a d e y o u r s h o e s .
To r e s o l e t h e s h o e s t h e o r i g i n a l s o l e i s
s t i p p e d o f f b e f o r e a n e w o n e i s s e w n
o n . I n r e - h e e l i n g o n l y t h e t o p p i e c e o f
h e e l i s r e p l a c e d , i n a l l c a s e s t h e s h o e s
a r e p o l i s h e d b e f o r e b e i n g r e t u r n e d t o
y o u r c a r e .
A F T E R C A R EWA T S O N · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r s h o e k i t
47
G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
O V E R S E A S C O N T A C TC L E V E R L E Y T R A V E L S T O Y O U
G . J . C l e v e r l e y t r a v e l s d u r i n g b o t h t h e
spring & fall to Tokyo, Singapore, Seoul,
Par is , Geneva and the Uni ted States of
A m e r i c a . I f y o u w o u l d l i k e t o e n q u i r e
a b o u t a v i s i t p l e a s e f i l l i n o u r e n q u i r y
f o r m o n o u r w e b s i t e .
w w w. g j c l e v e r l e y . c o . u k
O u r U S A r e p r e s e n t a t i v e i s a v a i l a b l e f o r
e n q u i r i e s r e g a r d i n g t h e G . J C l e v e r l e y
r a n g e .
G e o r g e G l a s g o w J r. D i r e c t o r
G . J C l e v e r l e y & C o . L t d .
B e v e r l y H i l l s , C a l i f o r n i a
Te l : + 1 3 1 0 2 8 9 0 0 0 8
E m a i l : g e o r g e @ g j c l e v e r l e y . c o . u k
E n q u i r i e s : enquir ies@gjc lever ley.co.ukBespoke gal lery by appoinment only.
Te l : + 1 3 1 0 2 4 8 2 3 9 9
E m a i l : g e o r g e @ g j c l e v e r l e y . c o . u k
OVERSEAS VISITS USA REPRESENTATIVE
BEVERLY HILLS
49
G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
L O N D O N S T O R EL O C A T I O N & H O U R S
G.J. Cleverley’s London store is located
i n t h e h e a r t o f L o n d o n ’s W e n t E n d .
G . J . C l e v e r l e y & C o . L t d .
1 3 T h e R o y a l A r c a d e ,
2 8 O l d B o n d S t e e t , L o n d o n
W 1 S 4 S L
Te l : + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 4 9 3 0 4 4 3 / 1 0 5 8
F a x : + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 4 9 3 4 4 9 1
E m a i l : e n q u i r i e s @ g j c l e v e r l e y. c o . u k
M o n d a y t o F r i d a y - 9 A M t o 6 P M
S a t u r d a y - 1 0 A M t o 5 P M
S u n d a y - C l o s e d
L O N D O N S T O R E
51
G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
N O T E S
G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .
1 3 T H E R O Y A L A R C A D E O L D B O N D S T L O N D O N W I S 4 S L
W W W . G J C L E V E R L E Y . C O . U K
C J C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D