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Chapter 12: Coasts
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Classification (difficult task)tectonics
activepassive
sea-level changemay vary widelycauses
global (eustatic) from +6m to -125 m in the last 2 MYvolume of water available (can be tied up in ice)capacity of ocean basins (can be reduced by faster sea-
floor spreading)volume changes due to temp changes
local tectonics isostacy
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Primary Coasts
characterisiticsyoungusually shaped by terrestrial processes
sea level change exposes new areas to erosionheavy deposition extends the land into the sea
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Primary coastscut by land erosion, then flooded by sea-level
risedrowned river valleysfjords
cut by wave erosion, then sea-level fallswave-cut terraces
built out by land processesriver deltas - fig p 294
morainesvolcanicearth movement
upwarddownward
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Secondary Coasts
oldshaped by waves
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Secondary Coasts:Wave Erosion
methodsabrasionhydraulic pressuredissolution
effectssea cliffssea cavessea stacks and archeswave-cut platformshore straightening
caused by wave refractionwaves focus on headlands
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Secondary Coasts:Beaches
deposits that accumulate in low energy areas sand is always being moved profile fig p 300
backshore - cliffs, dunes, seawall berm crest foreshore - intertidal zone off shore - longshore trough and bar
rip currents on-shore and off-shore
seasonal big waves - sand moves off-shore small waves - sand moves back on-shore effect of sea walls
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Secondary Coasts:Transportation & Deposition
longshore drifttransportation
wave motion pushes in at an anglegravity pulls straight outsand moves along the shore
effectssand moves in the direction of the predominant wavesbarrier islandsspits, baymouth bars, & tomboloseffects of groins, piers, jetties, breakwaters
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Secondary Coasts:Transportation & Depositioncoastal cells
sand movesentry point - cliffs, river, etclongshore driftexit point - submarine canyonhuman structures (dams, groins, jetties, piers,
breakwaters) can block flow of sand
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Other Types of Coasts
reefsmangrove swampsestuaries
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Estuaries
typesdrowned river mouthsfjordsbar-built (barrier
island lagoons)tectonic (grabens)
characterisiticssalt-wedgepartially mixedwell mixedfjordreverse
valueproductiveshelteredbrackishnurseries for the
oceanlagoons & wetlands
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